R-Kaid-Revelation (2/12 Final photos and video!)

[quizz_kid]

Hi Everyone.

First, let me introduce myself briefly. I’m a designer and modder from Sweden who specializes in wood and electronics combined. Like most of you guys, I grew of flipping coins in the arcade halls. For the last two years I’ve been building arcade machines in wood, suited for different needs. I work with emulators(mame etc), but would like to play around with original chips some day soon.

Here are some of my latest machines if interested:


R-Kaid-REDELUX
R-Kaid-42
R-Kaid-44


The project: R-Kaid-Revelation

The concept of the R-Kaid-Revelation is basically a huge game archive. This is truly my biggest project so far, and it’s going to be one hell of a machine. It’ll be made on request from a German friend, and this is some of the unique features that he should expect:


- A dual gaming system with two boot options. One with a more classic approach containing all the game systems pre 5th generation, with a customized version of the frontend Maximus Arcade. The other boot is for modern and more demanding PC games.

- An intergrated 500 ANSI LED projector

- A transparent 22” LCD  that will, while having the function of a regular monitor, also display a beautiful water cooled PC system underneath.

- A decent soundsystem

- A turning foot stand

- Two wireless joystick gamepads, stored and intergraded into the main console like pulling drawers in the front.

- A modified wireless wooden keyboard/mouse setup that will rest upside down on top of the chassis when not in use.


The color concept will be black stained walnut, black and copper, so there´ll be a lot of wood working and some finer copper processing.

Here is a rough sketch. You might notice some smaller references to the Commodore PET computer.





Planning:

There's a lot of stuff going into this build, so the construction have to be optimal. It was a real pain to design it. The case will be divided into two segments, vertically.

PC Specs:
CPU: Intel i5
Motherboard: MSI mitx Inet edition
PSU: Be Quiet! 550w
RAM:  Corsair Dominators 2x4GB
SSD: 2x Corsair 240gb disks
GPU: Zotac GTX670 AMP! 2GB
Water cooling: Alphacool and Phobya
Fan cooling: 7x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2

Additional:
Keyboard: Logitech K810
Projector: LG PB60G
LCD: Samsung transparent 22” display
Joysticks: Ultimarc J-Stiks



So, let's get on with the processing.

I started by cutting some walnut


Glued them together for the side panels


Some other pieces were made for the bezel of the LCD


Pieces planed and flush


This is after some cutting. You can see I've been using laser for some of the details here. Then I drilled three holes in each piece from below, using a long 5mm drill. After that, I had to seperate the panels in 3.5º angles, so I used a dimsaw. I will have m5 inserts in the upper segemet to secure it all together. More about that later.


Here is the start of a foot stand. I used MDF and made a 800mm long piece, about 30mm thick.


Some dimsaw cutting, and I had eight pieces of cake =)


Put some old veneer on those


Well, you’ll get the idea


Then I started on some laser cut detail pieces. The laser can only go about 4mm deep into solid wood, so removal of material is a must.


You can see the fancy stuff in this picture, which means that I’m almost through.


Laser cut stuff in a pile


Close up. This piece right here is for ventilation in the lower case segment.


On to some metal work. To support the machine, the turning foot stand has to be very stable. I chose a simple solution for stability and weight, solid steel.


This is after some welding and turning.


And after some sanding… a perfect fit! This construction will be mounted under the wooden octagon later on.


Made some mountings for the radiator, which will be placed on the back of the console later on.


2mm steel bended in a 13º angle


Over to some copper processing and started on some knobs for fan control and other things.


The result.


This piece right here is for the projector. Sort of the eye of the console I guess.


For the water cooling I'll use copper piping, and these are the fittings.


I tried some pipe bending, but my pipes are too brittle, so I’ll just use pre-bent 90 fittings instead.



That's it for now.

Hope you’ll like it!
//Quizz

[quizz_kid]

Saved for final pictures

[quizz_kid]

Here are some of the components going into this beast:


Intel i5 3570k processor


MSI mitx board


Zotac GTX670 AMP! 2GB


Fans and 530W PSU from Be Quiet!



Water cooling goodies, more about these later.


8GB RAM and 2x256GB SSDs from Corsair


For the keyboard mod I’ll use a Logitechs Bluetooth illuminated K810


And this is the transparent 22” display. It needs light to function, so I’ll work with that as well later on.


//Quizz

[CoryBee]

Holy monkey tits that's nice.

 

[Le Chuck]

Where have you been!  We've been waiting for you!  Teach us oh master wood worker.  Your stuff is awesome. 

Oh, welcome aboard and all that. 

Liked.  Followed.  Subscribed. 

[Nephasth]

Amazing skills! Love the "confessional screen" vents!

[Monkeyvoodoo]

Yeap, I'm done. I'm going back to building models, I can't match this skill.

Seriously though, you my good man, have some amazing wood working skills. I've always liked modern electronics in old world style. Kudos to you

[SnaXen]

Love your work!!! 

[EMDB]

As most of us just use a router and a electric jigsaw this is a whole other ball game  The sky seems to be the limit regarding tooling and money for components in this build. I will definitely follow this thread closely.

[edekoning]

Amazing!

Jeez I really feel I'm just dicking around with my project compared to such work.

[menace]

This is what my work is like:



Compared to yours:




Awesome job!

[TheDude]

Awesome ! And I love the steampunk look of these !
No plan for a bartop in that style ?

Really outstanding skills

[jdbailey1206]

This is what my work is like:



Compared to yours:

Compared to mine....

 

[Drnick]

These are works of art.  Straight to the top of the class for you my good sir.

[BobA]

Welcome to the forum.  You have great skills and your methods look top notch.  I look forward to seeing your works in progress.   

[Rick]

You might notice some smaller references to the Commodore PET computer.

You had me at Commodore PET. I was in grade 5 when I created my first program using a PET in our classroom. (I'm sure "20 GOTO 10" was involved.) The second program I made had an "reversed heart" inside a PRINT command, which I recall cleared the screen. I played with programs over the next few months, making 'choose your own adventure' stories. It was awesome.

I was hooked when I played a side-scrolling arcade-like shooter where you were a spaceship, flying through different random obstacles. I couldn't name the game, but I spent countless hours playing it.

Beyond my obvious excitement, your woodworking (and access to amazing tools) is unmatched! I can't wait to see more!

[AGarv]

Amazing work, I am looking forward to more!

[ids]

zomgwtfbbq

Be a good neighbour and let me borrow some of those tools 

Great work

[emphatic]

Hey, quizz_kid, I'm pretty sure I met you last year @ retrospelsmässan in Gothenburg when you were showcasing your K-Raid 44 (if I'm not mistaken) along with that awesome LCD "TV".

Welcome to this forum!

[Seith]

Those prior projects are phenomenal!  I am unable to comprehend such craftsmanship.  Kudos to you and your team, these are really outstanding.

[quizz_kid]

Thank you guys. What a welcome to the forum, it already feels like home. Glad you like my work, much appreciated.

Awesome ! And I love the steampunk look of these !
No plan for a bartop in that style ?

Really outstanding skills

I would love to do a bartop soon... Next build maybe, who knows. I wouldn't call myself steampunk though, although some aesthetic elements might seem close.

Hey, quizz_kid, I'm pretty sure I met you last year @ retrospelsmässan in Gothenburg when you were showcasing your K-Raid 44 (if I'm not mistaken) along with that awesome LCD "TV".

Welcome to this forum!

Thanks! Yeah, last year I presented my first arcade machine at RSM, the "R-Kaid-6". I've developed some since then I guess.

[quizz_kid]

The basic concept of Revelation is a collaboration between me and a German guy named Marcus. Hopefully we will get Chris Huelsbeck, a composer who wrote music for C64 and Amiga(Turrican 1-3 etc.), to make a startup tune for this machine. That would be so nice!

Anyway...

This is the small projector I'll be using for Revelation. It's the LG PB60G, and it's a very bright little beamer with its 500 ANSI


... and of course I had to open her up and see how she looks on the inside.


Because of the position of the lens, I won't have acess to the focus dial when centered. So I'll have to make some kind of extension. This is where LEGO technic comes very handy =) More about this later





Woodwork of today:

Drilled a lot of holes today. Due to some sparse dimensions, I figured I had to use 4mm dowels connecting the differnet pieces.

Here are the the parts for the lower section that'll house beamer and foot stand.


When drilling holes in the side panel parts, I made a simple 3,5º jig...


... and just slided the pieces in there. Very efficient!


Here are the three ledges that'll keep the upper structure together for now. They are tiny, and might look simple from above...


But as you can see, I've put a lot of work into these looking at the profiles.


Then I used a router for some inner sliding tracks.


From above.


Then I dry fitted the construction with dowels, just to get an idea of how it'll look like later. This is the lower section.


Upper section.


Sections mounted together


Another angle.


More to come

[Yvan256]

Wow, first of all, you sir have mad skills when it comes to woodworking. I'm pretty sure there's only a dozen or so members near your level. I'm just happy if I can cut a wood plank in two without sawing a finger off. And that's with a hand saw. 

The basic concept of Revelation is a collaboration between me and a crazy German guy named Marcus. Hopefully we will get Chris Huelsbeck, a composer who wrote music for C64 and Amiga(Turrican 1-3 etc.), to make a startup tune for this machine. That would be so nice!

I guess we all have our "special dream" for our projects. Mine would be to get the girl from Blazing Star to record custom voice recordings for my cabinet(s). I guess I can always use "Select your machine" when the game menu shows up, though. 

[quizz_kid]

Wow, first of all, you sir have mad skills when it comes to woodworking. I'm pretty sure there's only a dozen or so members near your level. I'm just happy if I can cut a wood plank in two without sawing a finger off. And that's with a hand saw. 

The basic concept of Revelation is a collaboration between me and a crazy German guy named Marcus. Hopefully we will get Chris Huelsbeck, a composer who wrote music for C64 and Amiga(Turrican 1-3 etc.), to make a startup tune for this machine. That would be so nice!

I guess we all have our "special dream" for our projects. Mine would be to get the girl from Blazing Star to record custom voice recordings for my cabinet(s). I guess I can always use "Select your machine" when the game menu shows up, though. 

Thanky you Yvan. I love shmups and play Blazing Star alot, so I know exactly what voice you're talking about =)



Todays work:


Continued on the foot stand today. Started by removing a lot of material below...


Had to make some special tracks because of my n00b welding skills


Put the steel construction in there and drilled som holes for wood insert nuts later


Made a cove on top and a small chamfer below, for a nice touch,


Here it is... I'm quiet happy with the result. I will paint the lower steel construction later, black I think. Or copper perhaps.


Then I started on the framework of the LCD. Made these 12mm thin walnut pieces and started to cut.


I usually complicate things, for the fun of it, and this is no exeption. I wanted the bezel to follow the angle of the side panels, and then make it a bit curved for a retro touch. Here's a simple jig for the dim saw.


After a lot of trial and error I finally got it right. These small angles everywhere are a pain.


Then I draw some lines for the curves and started sanding.


The two side pieces have the same angles, so I just taped them together for the mirror effect.


Pieces with curves.


Used the router for some round overs and then added some dowels


Glued under pressure.


Put it through the sanding master and got it down to exactly 10mm. Framework complete. Here's a dry fit.


It's hard to capture the small angles in photos due to the lens effect, but here's the bezel illustrated for a better visual.


Bezel corner, close up.


Here's a picture from the back where you can see that the bezel fit right into the sliding track I made yesterday.


Laterz!

[Typefighter01]

If Da Vinci mated with the Lemarchand's box from Hellraiser and you dressed the bastard child in Steampunk attire, it would be one of your "Kaid" builds (thats a compliment BTW)  Don't know whats up with you Swedes, but the whole time I am reading the thread I'm sayin to myself "This guy has to be from Sweden!", sure enough... 

[floriske.nl]

One word: "WOW!" 

Someone made a compliment on my woodworking on another forum, I've told him to go and have a look herre to see my skills really aren't that great 

[matsadona]

Simply amazing. Proud to be from Sweden right now

[quizz_kid]

If Da Vinci mated with the Lemarchand's box from Hellraiser and you dressed the bastard child in Steampunk attire, it would be one of your "Kaid" builds (thats a compliment BTW)  Don't know whats up with you Swedes, but the whole time I am reading the thread I'm sayin to myself "This guy has to be from Sweden!", sure enough... 

Well, Swedes have to be good at something  =)

One word: "WOW!" 

Someone made a compliment on my woodworking on another forum, I've told him to go and have a look herre to see my skills really aren't that great 

Thank you!

Simply amazing. Proud to be from Sweden right now

Thank you!!



Update:

Started on the keyboard modification. Cut some pieces...


I took what I had left, and had to use two differnet kinds of walnut for this one. But I'm sure they'll blend together when I put some stain on it later.


So, this was going to be a challange in terms of delicate modding. Did some accurate milling.


This is the design idea. One keyboard and one storage unit(for remote controllers and mouse) These will be snapped together with hidden magnets.


This is one of four very complex corners


The slim Logitech keyboard can't be disassembled, whitch sadly means that I can't make any surgery on on/off buttons etc. I simply had to make holes for USB charging and on/off button.


Then I realized I'd milled the USB socket on the wrong side :sigh: Well, I had to fix that.




After that, I made some drilling for those hidden magnets, mirrored on each unit.


Ang glue them together.



I aslo started making the speakers. Pieces cut.


Holes for the elements


Oh yeah, it's that 3.5 angle again. Mmmmm...


Guts.


Assembled fronts.



Front mounted inside. Going to add some silencing material in there later.



Finally, I received the slim mouse which I'm going to make into something woody later

[Ond]

Beautiful wood AND metal work, great to see another project using real timbers, I'm envious of your access to high quality tools.

[emphatic]

Stellar work! 

[bsktbllmn23]

This is incredible! Amazing woodworking skills.

Watching this for the future pictures and craftsmanship 

[AGarv]

WTH this is incredible... very nice choice with the walnut!

[Hornet]

I can only echo what others have said, great work!

But... quizz_kid the USB mishap, that will still show right? The reason I say this is because the block you inserted has the grain of the timber running the wrong way to its surrounding timber? Would of been better to have had the insert grain running the same way as the rest. Just a small thing really, but it would niggle me, especially as the rest of the work is done to a high standard. You can tell me to shut up if you like. 

[quizz_kid]

Beautiful wood AND metal work, great to see another project using real timbers, I'm envious of your access to high quality tools.

Stellar work! 

This is incredible! Amazing woodworking skills.

Watching this for the future pictures and craftsmanship 

WTH this is incredible... very nice choice with the walnut!

Thanks guys, appreciated!

I can only echo what others have said, great work!

But... quizz_kid the USB mishap, that will still show right? The reason I say this is because the block you inserted has the grain of the timber running the wrong way to its surrounding timber? Would of been better to have had the insert grain running the same way as the rest. Just a small thing really, but it would niggle me, especially as the rest of the work is done to a high standard. You can tell me to shut up if you like. 

Hi Hornet. It's not gonna show, would never leave it like that. Was a bit fuzzy there I guess, but I basically covered the mistake with a piece of veneer.

[Hornet]

quizz_kid OK I will go and hide in a corner somewhere.  Great work, truly inspiring! What do you use to finish the veneer? Would it be a shellac based polish/varnish? Also do you lightly stain the veneer before finishing to gain uniform and consistency in colour?

I can't wait to see the finish article. 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I Just set fire to all my work..

[TheChairmanH2K]

I Just set fire to all my work..

+1

[quizz_kid]

quizz_kid OK I will go and hide in a corner somewhere.  Great work, truly inspiring! What do you use to finish the veneer? Would it be a shellac based polish/varnish? Also do you lightly stain the veneer before finishing to gain uniform and consistency in colour?

I can't wait to see the finish article. 

For finish I will use an oil called Danish Oil, really brings out the luster in the walnut grains. And yes, I think I'm going to stain everything, to give it a darker tone and gain uniform/consistency. Not sure yet.

I Just set fire to all my work..

I Just set fire to all my work..

+1

Thanks guys! I know I'll better keep the cooling system in this beast optimal, or it might just set itself on fire =)

[mcseforsale]

sub-freaking-scribed!

Reminds me of the woodshop in dad's basement.

AJ

[DaOld Man]

Just now reading this and all I can say is WOW!

[javeryh]

Holy jeebus.

[matsadona]

Where did you get the transparent display and what did it cost?
I’m looking for something like that to my PC DJ equipment…

[quizz_kid]

sub-freaking-scribed!
Reminds me of the woodshop in dad's basement.
AJ

Just now reading this and all I can say is WOW!

Holy jeebus.

Thanks a lot guys!

Where did you get the transparent display and what did it cost?
I’m looking for something like that to my PC DJ equipment…

Bought it pretty cheap here: http://www.fingersgadget.com/products/samsung-transparent-lcd-display-22-inch-see-through-lti220mt02




Update

More work on the side panels. Three brass inserts in each side


Had to look around for really long screws and found these 120mm M5 in black on ebay... which is nice!


Screwed the panels together. Time to make them flush...


Done! I didn't expect the cut hiding this well. The idea was to have a small chamfer in between, but the pieces look so nice so I'll just leave them be.


Here's a close up. It's hidden pretty well =)


Another close up... It's barely visible.


Then I added some padding to the speakers and sealed it all.


Done! Tried them out, and they sound really good as well. The port does a great job, delivering some extra bass. Some times you're just lucky I guess =)


This is where they'll be mounted, behind the side panels.


They will also provide some extra support for the chassis construction... That's nice!


Front view.


I also got started on making the mouse. Here are the parts cut.


Four sides glued.


This is where I am now. The design is some what inspired by that bulky mouse from SNES. Will put veneer on the sides tomorrow.


Off the the keyboard again. For some symmetry I made a small cut using a knife, reflecting the meeting point of keyboard/storage unit.


Made sliding backsides for good accessibility.


Another shot. Will put some "Quizz-stain-painting" on the backs later.


I had to hide that ugly black finish between the keys, so I lasercut two optional materials:


Walnut veneer...


... and a piece of brown leather. I can't decide what's best here. I guess the leather is more functional and will add some contrast. But I like the veneer as well... Hmm




And here is an idea for a problem I've been stuggling with for some time now. When gaming on the transparent LCD, the electronics/components behind the it may distract a bit. I've come up with some ideas, but I decided to go with a kind of spring roller blind modification.

This is the spring roller blind/sunshade for cars which I'll use. It's a bit too long, so I'll cut it and make some modifications later.


And the materal I'll use for the actual blind? WOOD OF COURSE!!! I've never seen this before, but it's a veneer that's been sliced up, held together by small threads on the backside. Perfect for this project.


When rolled out, it looks like any veneer...


... but if you look closely, you can see the fine cut segments, mm by mm. Amazing! It's a bit fragile, so I'll have some kind of fabric glued on the backside I guess...


Til next time =)

[BobA]

My head is exploding trying to take in all the excellence of this build. 

[a1pharm]

Welcome to the forum!  I appreciate you sharing this project, it truly is a spectacular piece of work.

As for the rear shade that will go behind the translucent LCD:

Have you thought about using polarized sheeting in creative ways?  Here's a link to a vendor:  http://www.polarization.com/polarshop/

I'm sure I don't have to explain this type of option to you!

Cheers!
 

[SavannahLion]

Dude..... Guys like you and Ond just need their own section on the forum. You guys makes what I have look like a cheap breadbox from Wal*Mart.

Where did you get the transparent display and what did it cost?
I’m looking for something like that to my PC DJ equipment…

Bought it pretty cheap here: http://www.fingersgadget.com/products/samsung-transparent-lcd-display-22-inch-see-through-lti220mt02

Ahha! I've been hunting those done for a while now, ever since I spotted them on slot machines in a nearby casino. Been driving me nuts trying to find those panels online.

[emphatic]

Those keyboard overlays are so damn sexy, man.  I'd go with leather.

[Kman-Sweden]

Helt stört snyggt! 
Awesome

[stivtysk]

Love the keyboard  overlay!
I would gone with the veneer overlay

Skickat från min HTC One X via Tapatalk 2

[blashyrk]

Holy crap on a cracker, I wish i had an ounce of your woodworking skills

[quizz_kid]

My head is exploding trying to take in all the excellence of this build. 

Tank you BobA!

Welcome to the forum!  I appreciate you sharing this project, it truly is a spectacular piece of work.

As for the rear shade that will go behind the translucent LCD:

Have you thought about using polarized sheeting in creative ways?  Here's a link to a vendor:  http://www.polarization.com/polarshop/

I'm sure I don't have to explain this type of option to you!

Cheers!
 

Thanks a lot! I've thought about it yes, but it's not for this project. The wooden blind will do great I think.

Dude..... Guys like you and Ond just need their own section on the forum. You guys makes what I have look like a cheap breadbox from Wal*Mart.

Where did you get the transparent display and what did it cost?
I’m looking for something like that to my PC DJ equipment…

Bought it pretty cheap here: http://www.fingersgadget.com/products/samsung-transparent-lcd-display-22-inch-see-through-lti220mt02

Ahha! I've been hunting those done for a while now, ever since I spotted them on slot machines in a nearby casino. Been driving me nuts trying to find those panels online.

Haha... What are you going to use it for anyway?

Those keyboard overlays are so damn sexy, man.  I'd go with leather.

Love the keyboard  overlay!
I would gone with the veneer overlay

Skickat från min HTC One X via Tapatalk 2

Thanks guys. Leather or veneer, I'm still not sure. Hmm...

Helt stört snyggt! 
Awesome

Tackar!

Holy crap on a cracker, I wish i had an ounce of your woodworking skills

The machines does most of the job I guess, but thanks =)





Today I've started on the joystick pads. When not in use, they'll go into the chassis like pull out chest drawers, more about that later.

 
8mm MDF glued into the frame work, and then some nice veneer.


Then I had to cut one of the sides in that 3.5 angle... the dimsaw got the job done pretty easy.


I will have some magnets hidden in the side facing the chassis side panel, so I made a simple 3.5 angle jig and drilled two holes.


Some veneering to hide the holes.


8mm magnets inserted from inside.


Did the same thing on the chassis side panel, mirrored of course. Drilled 1mm too deep, and used small pieces of veneer to fill up the distance.


Some epoxy


On to the mouse again. I didn't like the grains on the first one, so I made a new one. Didnt have access to lasercutter this time, so had to use my machine skills for some precise milling.


First hole done...


Finished. I like the one-piece bent veneer on this one, better flow in the grains.


Then I planed a very small piece of walnut for the sliding fan grill on top(I'll tell you more about this later) I wanted to make a small 1.5mm track through it, and made this very simple but effective milling jig. 



The piece is very fragile, with its 26x4x540mm.



Also continued a bit on that wooden blind. I applied some fabric on the backside and began to cut it in the right dimensions. Used two thick MDF sheets to keep it steady while cutting.


This is after cutting.


Tada!

[emphatic]

  Crazy. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Good work - being a wood butcher myself, I recognize clean craft work when I see it.  Do you do cabinet work as a career? 

[Epyx]

 

Wow...OMG...had me at Commodore too...course my avatar is a clean giveaway.

Woodwork like this keeps me motivated and improving.  Fantastic work...drooling at what is to come!!!

[mcseforsale]

Growing up in a woodworking house (and vowing NEVER to take up woodworking), I find the hardest part is not the lack of tools, it's the way talented craftsmen like you are able to put the steps together in some semblance of order to create something like this.

Given access to your toolset, it would still take me years to master the skill of placing steps in the right order, managing materials, and choosing the correct methods to use and where.

Amazing work!

One favor, though.  Can you take some pics of your shop?  I'd love to see the layout and the toolset you have to work with.


AJ

[Epyx]

Love the wooden mouse chassis!

[rablack97]

Um, thats what it is 

You must of missed it prior in the thread....that was a redo of the first one...

[Epyx]

There quick edit to compliment instead!

[quizz_kid]

Crazy. 

Thanks man!

Good work - being a wood butcher myself, I recognize clean craft work when I see it.  Do you do cabinet work as a career? 

Thank you! I'm not a cabinet maker for career, but I know some woodworking I guess. Right now I'm in school for a design program.

Wow...OMG...had me at Commodore too...course my avatar is a clean giveaway.

Woodwork like this keeps me motivated and improving.  Fantastic work...drooling at what is to come!!!

Thank you very much Epyx!

Growing up in a woodworking house (and vowing NEVER to take up woodworking), I find the hardest part is not the lack of tools, it's the way talented craftsmen like you are able to put the steps together in some semblance of order to create something like this.

Given access to your toolset, it would still take me years to master the skill of placing steps in the right order, managing materials, and choosing the correct methods to use and where.

Amazing work!

One favor, though.  Can you take some pics of your shop?  I'd love to see the layout and the toolset you have to work with.


AJ

Well, making a build like this takes a little bit of skills I guess =) As you say, it's all about the process with doing everything in right order.
Pics of the shop below =)

Love the wooden mouse chassis!

Thanks again man!




So, I though I show you some picture of where the magic happens. I lend this amazing workshop for a month or so. Wish it was mine!! With a little imagination, I believe you can do everything in here.

Here's sort of a front view of the workshop. Great old machines... The dim saw is the only newer addition to the park. You can also see the panorama windows to the right.


Here's the view... Beautiful.


Here's the rear end of the park. Machines like the sanding master(to the right) is nothing I would buy myself, but comes in handy when sanding veneer etc.


Here's my baby, the old zink machine. I use this milling machine for everything. Revelation wouldn't look the same without it.


This beast of a drilling machine is very very reliable.






Well, off to some progress:


Made the buttons for the mouse.


Made the lens protection, slightly tampered.


Here, with the copper projector fitting. Perfect fit!


Another angle.


Made a lath for the blind in walnut and glued them together.


Another photo.


Mounting holes in side panels for the blind construction.


I'm going to use bearings for the blind construction, and made two cylinders with grooves.


Here are other ingredients...


Made three fittings for the bearings in solid walnit. Overkill maybe, but who doesn't like nice looking constructions =)


Here it is, mounted onto the side panel.


Here's a smaller bearing thingy.


Then I made a mounting/stand for the projector...


Some support pieces in the joystick pads.


Threaded M4 inserts...


... and countersunk screws... Jummy!


Drilled holes for buttons, joystick etc.


The foot stand is done, and I'm really satified. Copper and walnut is sweeeet!


Close up.



Later! :::

[Dalgaard]

Epic Work Thanks for the great Pictures as well. I'll be following this thread as much as possible.

You should make wooden arcade buttons and joysticks for your build

[Hornet]

I want a job at your workshop! I will work for free, I make a good cup of tea and will push a brush if need be.

Geez that is some set up you have and in such beautiful surroundings too.

I'm intrigued as to what else you make? I did take a look at your link for facebook with some projects, but do you have a personal website with other items displayed? What you are doing is mind blowing, it really is. 

[quizz_kid]

Epic Work Thanks for the great Pictures as well. I'll be following this thread as much as possible.

You should make wooden arcade buttons and joysticks for your build

Thanks Dalgaard. Wooden buttons/balltop would be too much IMO. From my own exprerience, a contrast in materials is needed to make it pop.

I want a job at your workshop! I will work for free, I make a good cup of tea and will push a brush if need be.

Geez that is some set up you have and in such beautiful surroundings too.

I'm intrigued as to what else you make? I did take a look at your link for facebook with some projects, but do you have a personal website with other items displayed? What you are doing is mind blowing, it really is. 

Thank you Hornet! I have a web here: www.lovehulten.com

Don't I wish I had a workshop like that!! I lend it for a couple of weeks right now, but then it's off to nothing again =(





Well, here's kind of a big update


I stained the walnut and then glued all the pieces.


Here is the upper section of the main chassis. This is after some sanded-edges-patina and two layers of Danish oil.


Same piece, with a shot of the sidepanel. I first felt quite bad putting stain on beautiful timber like that, but after the finish it really glows. Very satisfied!


Here's the lower section. You can really see the fantastic job the stain/oil did on the veneer on top. Looks really old and authentic.


Another shot, here with a joypad/pull-out-drawer slided out.


The keyboard/storage unit and some walnut mountings.


The mouse with stained end grain buttons... I like it!


I wasn't sure about the walnut frame/bezel for the LCD, so I made an alternative one on MDF, painted plain cream egg white. I'm not sure what's better here...


The walnut bezel has some really nice grains to it, but is IMO a bit too much. I think this build needs a change in material, for contrast. Still, it's a very nice walnut piece...


Here's a close up of the corner. It's not a perfect joint, but it works I guess.


Here's the eggy alternative. I really like the contrast...


Close up of corner. Much better precision here, and smoother. What's your thoughts?


Here are the parts of my joystick mods. Since the pads are going to be low profile drawers, I had to do something abut the joystick shafts. I kept it very basic; removable shaft using simple screw on/off. Quite proud of the solution though.


Mounted. You can see the M6 thread for the shaft. To secure it, you just use a screwdriver from under the joystick, the backside of the pad.


Then I drilled a hole in the joystick from the side...


And inserted a thread here as well. This will let the joystick shafts be used as pull knobs for the drawers. More about that later, but I'm very proud over that design.


I made a tray for the PC, in birch ply which I stained a bit.


And this is where I'm right now, playing with components =) It's quite a mess right now, making an attemt as a plumber. You can see some of the components here; a MSI mitx Inet edition board, a ZOTAC GTX670 AMP! 2GB, both with blocks from Alphacool. 


Here's the Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic DC Pro pump and couple of Corsair Dominators, both modded a bit. The memories got a copper paint job and the pump got some new holes for mounting.


You can get an idea of the loop in this shot I guess. All parts will be polished later of course. For the loop I'll be using Alphacooling compression fittings, plumbing angles and 15mm copper pipes, and they don't match that well =) So there's going to be some DIY surgery later on, without the use of welding. More about this later...


Here's a shot of the lower chassis with footstand and beamer mounted. Also added some copper mesh. Looks pretty cool!


From behind.


Laterz!

[SnaXen]

Wow!!       

I'm almost lost for words, but GREAT work!! 

 

[a1pharm]

I see a Best of 2013 winner...

Superb workmanship!

 

[Dalgaard]

Another awesome update! Good work yet again...I like the eggwhite bezel better than the wooden one...you're right about the need for different materials. Keep up the good work! Also...great Pictures in this thread. 10/10!

[emphatic]

I vote for the egg bezel. Very nice work on the JLW shafts, but the cooling system is just too cool! (no pun intended) 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Simply stunning work. The skill level is off the chart. Never mind having the tools to do all that type of work you still need to be able to use them. You sir are a genius. Love your work.. Defiantly 2013`s Best in show...Its just insanely beautiful

[lcmgadgets]

 ...There's...nothing I can say that can express just how amazing this project is.  You've impressed the gods on this forum, so the thoughts & opinions of something as lowly as me don't even deserve to b here.  I grovel in the dust, my eyes averted. Please keep posting--teach us, oh master!

[rablack97]

Man, something is wrong with you....no human being should be that perfect in woodworking.....I'm sure you had something to do with crop circles didn't ya.

See, this is what your doing.....Your building stuff like this, and when we look at your build, it's like looking into the sun....Once the blindness subsides, we go look at our builds and they for some reason look like this......

http://www.wickedretarded.com/~crapmame/

Then we look like this.......



Stop the madness........

[lcmgadgets]

I'm terrified I'm gonna build something that belongs on that list of crap cabs. I did complete a DDR pad that I think should b there. Never again, I hope. I'll post it someday.

[AGarv]

Man you are an incredibly talented artist, thanks for sharing the details of your work.

[ids]

Then we look like this.......



Stop the madness........

For those of us (or maybe I'm alone in this) for whom this picture is us on a good day, the work in this thread is REALLY depressing.  Or inspiring.  Not sure which. 

STOP THE MADNESS 

[quizz_kid]

Wow!!       

I'm almost lost for words, but GREAT work!! 

 

Thanx SnaXen!

I see a Best of 2013 winner...

Superb workmanship!

 

Appreciate it!

Another awesome update! Good work yet again...I like the eggwhite bezel better than the wooden one...you're right about the need for different materials. Keep up the good work! Also...great Pictures in this thread. 10/10!

Thanks Dalgaard. Might go with the walnut bezel anyway... It's such nice grains =)

I vote for the egg bezel. Very nice work on the JLW shafts, but the cooling system is just too cool! (no pun intended) 

Well, seems I got some fans! (pun inteded)

Simply stunning work. The skill level is off the chart. Never mind having the tools to do all that type of work you still need to be able to use them. You sir are a genius. Love your work.. Defiantly 2013`s Best in show...Its just insanely beautiful

Really appreciate it sabreerbas, thanks for the interest!

...There's...nothing I can say that can express just how amazing this project is.  You've impressed the gods on this forum, so the thoughts & opinions of something as lowly as me don't even deserve to b here.  I grovel in the dust, my eyes averted. Please keep posting--teach us, oh master!

There are actual GODS in this forums??? Well, I'm in the right place then I guess. Thanks!

Man, something is wrong with you....no human being should be that perfect in woodworking.....I'm sure you had something to do with crop circles didn't ya.

See, this is what your doing.....Your building stuff like this, and when we look at your build, it's like looking into the sun....Once the blindness subsides, we go look at our builds and they for some reason look like this......

http://www.wickedretarded.com/~crapmame/

Then we look like this.......



Stop the madness........

Haha... That's a great page man. Some epic builds there. I needed a big laugh after these rough weeks of woodworking, so thanks! And yes, the crop circles along with the craters on the moon, that my doings alright!

I'm terrified I'm gonna build something that belongs on that list of crap cabs. I did complete a DDR pad that I think should b there. Never again, I hope. I'll post it someday.

Well, it's always good to get your stuff out there, no matter the circumstances =)

Man you are an incredibly talented artist, thanks for sharing the details of your work.

Thanks AGary!



So, I'll leave you with one more update before I go on a smaller vaccation. I'm in need of a break. Been busting way too many hrs on this one lately...

Took me like 25min just to cut through this little sucker. Tool steel is pain...


But I had to cut it, because it's going into the lens protection. Sort of a hidden little screwdriver for securing the joystick shafts to the pads. And you really don't want the bit scratching/touching the lens, so I needed at least a couple of mms for margins. I aslo found a nice copper chain suiting the theme.


Here's another shot... For some weeks now, all the copper parts has grown some really nice patina. I will probably polish it up before mounting, but maybe leave it susceptible for the coming years. Haven't decided on that yet. It's that or wax I guess.


Then I made a sliding mounting in ply for the LCD and a piece of 2mm protective glass.


I made this little guy just for fun I guess. It's the pulling knob/handle for the blind. Don't know if I'll use it though, I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?


I painted the SSDs copper and made black vinyl stickers, to suit the overall theme. Think it looks really good...


Some sleeved cables attached...


Here is a less messy picture of the PC layout in whole. Almost done, but still got the plumbing work ahead of me.


Try fitted inside the chassis. The tray slides in there like a charm =)


Here is the wooden blind mounted in place. The bearing construction works, but it'll need some modifications to be perfected. I want it smooth of course, but that's after vaccation.


This is the backside of the tray, with the rad and 3x BeQuiet Silent Wings secured with those 13 angle mountings I made in the beginning. You can also see that I'll use a chain of 2x PCI-E risers for the GPU.


Here's the four chassis fans that's going on top, mounted on this sled thingy I made. The Silent Wings has a weird mounting system, but for this perforated plate, it an ideal solution actually =)


Other side.


You just slide it in there, and gets secured in there by the a backpanel.


Here's from the front with almost everything mounted. Margins are minimal, as you expect when building a complex beast like this =)


Well, I'm off for a while. I guess I´ll keep this forum in my pocket and check in now and then as the addict I've become =)

[emphatic]

I made this little guy just for fun I guess. It's the pulling knob/handle for the blind. Don't know if I'll use it though, I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?

I know what you mean, as seen on the Swedish Äppelknyckarbyxa. These are also worn by Tintin. 

The PC build you're doing is a work of art. 

[quizz_kid]

I know what you mean, as seen on the Swedish Äppelknyckarbyxa. These are also worn by Tintin. 

The PC build you're doing is a work of art. 

Well apples are quite heavy, and they had to come up with something I guess

[PL1]

I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?

Sounds like a cord lock.


Alternate version here.


There are also the 3-cord locks used on adjustable shades and the associated pulleys, but they seem like overkill for this.
 


Scott

[rockyrocket]

Just found this thread and WOW!, this is art pure and simple.

[quizz_kid]

I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?

Sounds like a cord lock.


Alternate version here.


There are also the 3-cord locks used on adjustable shades and the associated pulleys, but they seem like overkill for this.
 


Scott

Thanks a lot!! Order placed...

Just found this thread and WOW!, this is art pure and simple.

Appreciate it, rockyrocket!

[quizz_kid]

Still on vaccation, but have a question. Does anyone know how to reverse the rotation of a 12v RC motor? And could I maybe have a toggle switch to alter the rotation? Thinking about using one of those for the blind/shade.

[PL1]

Still on vaccation, but have a question. Does anyone know how to reverse the rotation of a 12v RC motor? And could I maybe have a toggle switch to alter the rotation? Thinking about using one of those for the blind/shade.

Here's a circuit that will allow you to reverse the polarity/direction of the motor/actuator.

It uses a DPDT (double pole, double throw) momentary-on/off/momentary-on rocker switch that is spring loaded to return to center like this one.

When you press "up" on the rocker switch, it moves both throw arms (blue) to make contact and applies a + voltage through the normally closed (NC) upper limit switch (green) until the motor pushes the shade up far enough to press the upper limit switch and open the circuit (red) which stops the motor. Holding the rocker switch "up" after this will not cause it to move until the limit switch returns to closed.

To lower the shade, press "down" on the rocker switch. The throw arms make contact and applies a + voltage through the normally closed lower limit switch (green) until the actuator pulls the shade down far enough to press the lower limit switch and open the circuit (red) which stops the motor. Holding the rocker switch "down" after this will not cause it to move until the limit switch returns to closed.

You can also run it partially up or down, as desired.


Scott

[TopJimmyCooks]

was gonna give you the benefit of my wisdom but PL was much wiser and much faster. 

[quizz_kid]

Still on vaccation, but have a question. Does anyone know how to reverse the rotation of a 12v RC motor? And could I maybe have a toggle switch to alter the rotation? Thinking about using one of those for the blind/shade.

Here's a circuit that will allow you to reverse the polarity/direction of the motor/actuator.

It uses a DPDT (double pole, double throw) momentary-on/off/momentary-on rocker switch that is spring loaded to return to center like this one.

When you press "up" on the rocker switch, it moves both throw arms (blue) to make contact and applies a + voltage through the normally closed (NC) upper limit switch (green) until the motor pushes the shade up far enough to press the upper limit switch and open the circuit (red) which stops the motor. Holding the rocker switch "up" after this will not cause it to move until the limit switch returns to closed.

To lower the shade, press "down" on the rocker switch. The throw arms make contact and applies a + voltage through the normally closed lower limit switch (green) until the actuator pulls the shade down far enough to press the lower limit switch and open the circuit (red) which stops the motor. Holding the rocker switch "down" after this will not cause it to move until the limit switch returns to closed.

You can also run it partially up or down, as desired.


Scott

Thanks Scott, this is much appreciated. So my task now I guess, is to find good spots for placing the two limit micro switches? Maybe I can put "stops" on the string along the inner side panel. That way I don't have to mess with the shade itself.

Btw, I've ordered two different geared motors, for testing. One with 70 RPM and another one with 50 RPM... I have no idea if that's slow enough. Guess I just have to try it out. But incase 50RPM is a bit too fast, could I drain the voltage s bit somehow? A pot or something maybe...

[TopJimmyCooks]

Typically speed control is based on pulsing the motor rapidly on/off.  the motor always needs 12 volts (or whatever) or it won't work at all. 

[quizz_kid]

Typically speed control is based on pulsing the motor rapidly on/off.  the motor always needs 12 volts (or whatever) or it won't work at all.

Ok, thanks. Maybe I should get a 30-40RPM motor as well then, just to be sure

[TopJimmyCooks]

low gearing is more important than overall speed.  131:1 is what I used for a monitor rotation, but if the blind's movement is pretty easy then you may not need so much torque.  I wouldn't direct drive it off the shaft of the motor.

[PL1]

Maybe you can use a shaft pulley (?) type assembly where the cord that wraps around the shaft also passes through the shaft to avoid slippage. (Not drawn to scale)

The difference of circumferences yields a proportional reduction in RPM.

The limit switches (blue) are actuated by a block (red) on the cable.

The blind would be in the middle area wrapped around the tan axis.


Scott

[Ond]

This is such a pleasing project, something different from the usual traditional approaches to arcade building.  I'm impressed by the combination of materials craftsmanship and creativity going on.  Funny eh?  I'm always hunting around hoping to see skill and innovation like this and when I do see it I'm still surprised as hell!    

[quizz_kid]

low gearing is more important than overall speed.  131:1 is what I used for a monitor rotation, but if the blind's movement is pretty easy then you may not need so much torque.  I wouldn't direct drive it off the shaft of the motor.

The shade/blind is mounted and rotates on bearings so there're almost no friction, very good movement. But the motors I ordered are pretty weak I guess. Just have to wait and see. Thanks.

Maybe you can use a shaft pulley (?) type assembly where the cord that wraps around the shaft also passes through the shaft to avoid slippage. (Not drawn to scale)

The difference of circumferences yields a proportional reduction in RPM.

The limit switches (blue) are actuated by a block (red) on the cable.

The blind would be in the middle area wrapped around the tan axis.


Scott

Thanks for that drawing, much appreciated Scott! I was also considering blocks like that. I don't Think I've got room for an axis going along the entire blind though. But there might be room for a thicker shaft to reduce RPM a bit.

This is such a pleasing project, something different from the usual traditional approaches to arcade building.  I'm impressed by the combination of materials craftsmanship and creativity going on.  Funny eh?  I'm always hunting around hoping to see skill and innovation like this and when I do see it I'm still surprised as hell!    

Thanks Ond, means a lot coming from you! I'll just have to join the choir here, 'cause I'm truly amazed by your processing skills and original design ideas. 

[PL1]

I don't Think I've got room for an axis going along the entire blind though. But there might be room for a thicker shaft to reduce RPM a bit.

Narrowing the center of the tan shaft and using larger diameter pulleys on the ends will further slow the raising/lowering speed of the shade, but makes it harder to ensure that the blind doesn't bind while raising/lowering.

I figured you'd tie the sides of the blind slats (yellow) to the drive cord and use several turns of the tan shaft to wrap up the blind on the center part.

Use beads (purple) the same thickness as the slats on the cord that wraps around the outer tan shaft as the blind deploys from the center part.

That way as you reduce by the diameter of the center as the shade goes out, you increase the diameter of the outer part.

It may also need a spring tension pulley to take up the slack, depending on the final design measurements.   


Scott

[Maximus]

Where did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.

[mcseforsale]

yeah, buddy..  your brand of cool is on it's way out.   

AJ

Where did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

yeah, buddy..  your brand of cool is on it's way out.   

AJ

Where did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.

LOL ..Doubtful its a different type of amazing which they both contribute.

[quizz_kid]

I don't Think I've got room for an axis going along the entire blind though. But there might be room for a thicker shaft to reduce RPM a bit.

Narrowing the center of the tan shaft and using larger diameter pulleys on the ends will further slow the raising/lowering speed of the shade, but makes it harder to ensure that the blind doesn't bind while raising/lowering.

I figured you'd tie the sides of the blind slats (yellow) to the drive cord and use several turns of the tan shaft to wrap up the blind on the center part.

Use beads (purple) the same thickness as the slats on the cord that wraps around the outer tan shaft as the blind deploys from the center part.

That way as you reduce by the diameter of the center as the shade goes out, you increase the diameter of the outer part.

It may also need a spring tension pulley to take up the slack, depending on the final design measurements.   


Scott

Thanks again Scott. It gets more and more complicated here I see =) Like your inputs/ideas! Will try it out when I'm back in Aug

Where did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.

Thanks Maximus, appreciate it! You make some real tidy builds yourself there man...

[talkgeek]

WOW! ..completely Stunning 

unfortunately when I see the level skill and creativity on this forum (and this is up there with OND, Griffindodd, Sjaak and Knievel) it makes me want to park my projects and study carpentry and creative design for a decade or two - then reality kicks in (I still need to pay the mortgage)

Shame none of you live close - I would convince you to sell me this awesomeness (2nd mortgage if necessary) and focus on enjoying the artwork ..of course i'd never let anyone actually touch them!

[quizz_kid]

WOW! ..completely Stunning 

unfortunately when I see the level skill and creativity on this forum (and this is up there with OND, Griffindodd, Sjaak and Knievel) it makes me want to park my projects and study carpentry and creative design for a decade or two - then reality kicks in (I still need to pay the mortgage)

Shame none of you live close - I would convince you to sell me this awesomeness (2nd mortgage if necessary) and focus on enjoying the artwork ..of course i'd never let anyone actually touch them!

Thanks for that comment talkgeek!


So, I'm finally back. Vaccation is soooo overrated =)

I started with the boring stuff, joystick wiring. This is not just very boring, but also very very time consuming.

The controller I'll be working with uses 2xAAA batteries, and I want to have them rechargable by USB for some ease. So I gathered the parts for the charging circuit. Some resistors, indication LED and a small DC socket.


Finished board. I'll then have a USB to DC cord connecting the pads to Revelation on the back.


Joystick mod, battery holder and circuit board mounted into the controller.


This is the wireless PC controllers I'll use. You can get these pretty cheap on ebay, no need to buy anything else.


Somewhat disassembled controller.


And here's the naked PCB, the only thing I need here.


Only thing with these PCBs are the soldering. It can be tricky if you're not good with the iron. I'm getting pretty used to this stuff, so...


This is after 45min or so. A lot of wires...


Then it's another 45min of putting it all together. The small space doesn't help.


Well, it's a mess, I know. But in this situation there's really no point of going for the perfect cable management, you'll never get there, trust me. Just making sure to steer the cables away from the battery holder as much as possible.


The backlid covers all that mess anyway, so =)


Here's the copper joystick shaft and a dust cover from solid walnut.


Mounted.


Finsihed joystick pad! The button layout is inspired from NEO GEO, my fav system.



Now I just have to make another one :sigh:

I also received some new stuff for the motordriven jalousie shade. Both 12V motors are about 50RPM. The bigger one is more sturdy I guess, but I hope that the little sucker to the left is enough. Would save a lot of space in there later.




More coming...
//Quizz

[rablack97]

Now thats what i call execution..........

Good grief man that gorgeous.....

[sabreerbasAlpha]

The contrast between the wood and black buttons is very nice. Can I ask were the receivers for the wireless controllers are going to be housed.

[emphatic]

Lovely work on the joystick! 

[opt2not]

Nice looking pictures too! 

[quizz_kid]

Now thats what i call execution..........
Good grief man that gorgeous.....

Thank you rablack!

The contrast between the wood and black buttons is very nice. Can I ask were the receivers for the wireless controllers are going to be housed.

Thanks Sabreer, can't really go wrong with walnut and black I guess. The receivers are going into the motherboard, USB standard.

Lovely work on the joystick! 

Thanks emphatic!

Nice looking pictures too! 

Yeah, I got this new camera last year. Magic!

[quizz_kid]

After making that second controller, I started on the USB to DC cables.

Here's the original cable...


A little soldering...



And here's now a USB to DC cable.
By now some of you guys might notice that I have a wild passion for coiled/spiral cables. Just can't get enough of them.


Here's the cable connected PC-to-controller, on the back of Revelation. You can aslo see that I've installed two USB 3.0 ports and two copper dial knobs for fan control use.



When not in use, the controller are simply slided into the main construction, a stealth design I'm very proud of. The magnets inside automatically slides the pads into position/place with a little push, a little nice touch as well.



And when you want to kick some ass, just pull them out like pull drawers.



The joystick shaft are used as pulling knobs...



For gaming, you just screw them out, and connect them on top



Another shot.



Hope you'll enjoy this as much as I am right now =)

//Quizz

[CoryBee]

This is friggin awesome quizz.

One thing though, have you ever used those DC plug connectors before (male)? I have and the surrounds break really really easy, they don't last long after even moderate handling. I would suggest you get one of the solid plastic shelled ones and not the perforated ones. Cheers and great job on the design.

 

[emphatic]

You should do something about the balltops. The method used to fabricate them has left an ugly line across the "equator" of them that does not fit in with everything else as that's spotless. Perhaps sanding them? Should give a better grip as well. 

[mcseforsale]

+1 midnight black hand candies:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=368

AJ

You should do something about the balltops. The method used to fabricate them has left an ugly line across the "equator" of them that does not fit in with everything else as that's spotless. Perhaps sanding them? Should give a better grip as well. 

[quizz_kid]

This is friggin awesome quizz.

One thing though, have you ever used those DC plug connectors before (male)? I have and the surrounds break really really easy, they don't last long after even moderate handling. I would suggest you get one of the solid plastic shelled ones and not the perforated ones. Cheers and great job on the design.

 

Thank you Corybee! I've never used these DC connectors before, only similar 3.5mm audio ones. Might change into something more robust then, thanks for the tip!

You should do something about the balltops. The method used to fabricate them has left an ugly line across the "equator" of them that does not fit in with everything else as that's spotless. Perhaps sanding them? Should give a better grip as well. 

Yeah, the standard should be higher on those ball tops. I have a lot of them laying around, might find two better ones. If not, I'll think of options. Thanks

[lcmgadgets]

My God, he solders/wires like a pro, too.

& God bless the inventor of hot glue. Hot glue is definitely my friend.

[Rick]

My God, he solders/wires like a pro, too.

The word craftsman is definitely too light a word to use in light of the work this man produces. I'm struggling to find the proper description of this mind-blowing artistry.

[quizz_kid]

Thanks guys, means a lot!

I try not to use hot glue if there's better alternatives, but it does magic every now and then...

[rablack97]

In the words of CoryBee

Stop it you 

[ppv]

Flabbergasted. This is more than impressive. I'm at lost for words.

[talkgeek]

You just keep raising the bar - this really is a work of art!  i'm in complete awe 

[quizz_kid]

Thank you guys, means a lot!

Been a lot going on lately, but found me some Revelation-time yesterday, and started on the plumbing finally. Now this isn't your typical WC installation. Since there's no copper fittings for piping I decided to try my own DIY solution, combining 16/10 tube compression fittings and 15mm pipes, without welding.


Here's an exploding view of the basic concept. 16/10 fitting + pipe support sleeve + 15mm pipe etc.


To fit the pipe support sleeves onto the tube fittings I had to remove some material.


Then I used some silicon for secure sealing. I forced the sleeves onto the fittings with the use of a hammer.


To secure and seal the piping I used one layer silicon / one layer epoxy. No welding needed.


Pipe secured onto fitting, very DIY...


Here's one pipe module finished.


Some patina's been growing onto the parts over the last couple of months.


Got my hands dirty with some Autosol...


It's not Attila, but shiny enough for me. Here's a picture of the pipework and cable management in symbiosis.


SATAs and 24-pin connected. A perfect fit around the pipe is a job well done I guess.


Another part of the loop, close up.


A shot of the loop in whole. It looks really good IMO.


Here's the idea:


When I was at it, I decided to give the dial knobs a bit of polishing as well.



Leak testing tomorrow, fingers crossed :::

[CoryBee]

 

I admit that I was sad to see the barrage of pictures end. Amazing work!

Hard to find anything in this build to pick at but the PCI extension ribbon cable stands out with its green PCB board. Maybe you could dip it in a non-conductive black paint or something to conform to the rest of the visuals.

Hope you find a cool solution for the Voltage meter (if you plan on using one).

 

[quizz_kid]

I admit that I was sad to see the barrage of pictures end. Amazing work!

Hard to find anything in this build to pick at but the PCI extension ribbon cable stands out with its green PCB board. Maybe you could dip it in a non-conductive black paint or something to conform to the rest of the visuals.

Hope you find a cool solution for the Voltage meter (if you plan on using one).

 

Thanx Cory.

Ribbon cable is going black. yes...

And regarding voltage meter, that's for another build =)

[rablack97]

I love saying this for some reason....

   Stop it You !!!!!

This is getting ridiculous, what gets me is fols who do this with flawless results, do you screw up, where are the do-overs......

I too am sad now........slideshow ended....

[quizz_kid]

do you screw up, where are the do-overs......

Don't worry mate, I still haven't tested the loop for leaks, don't even know if the system will boot and i still have that shade machanism to construct. Everything could go wrong from now on 

[emphatic]

It's.... Beautiful... 

[thatpurplestuff]

My God, he solders/wires like a pro, too.

The word craftsman is definitely too light a word to use in light of the work this man produces. I'm struggling to find the proper description of this mind-blowing artistry.

Yup some of the amazing updates from quizz_kid, Ond, Maximus, and others almost qualify as arcade porn.  Tastefully done arcade porn.

[rablack97]

do you screw up, where are the do-overs......

Don't worry mate, I still haven't tested the loop for leaks, don't even know if the system will boot and i still have that shade machanism to construct. Everything could go wrong from now on 

No I hope you dont screw up, all i'm saying is, if you've went this far and not screwed up you are not a human being!!!!!

Keep it up man.....this is awesome.....

[sabreerbasAlpha]

The water cooling work is beyond words my friend. amazing simply amazing..

ooo And congratulations on the piece in STUFF Magazine. Brill read mate...
 :notworthy:Do me a favour though lower the price just for me...

[quizz_kid]

Thanks guys!!

The water cooling work is beyond words my friend. amazing simply amazing..

ooo And congratulations on the piece in STUFF Magazine. Brill read mate...
 :notworthy:Do me a favour though lower the price just for me...

Thanks. Haven't seen the feature yet, still waiting for a copy of the mag. I hope they did a good job in the photo studio...

Btw, what does the pricing says in the feature? I can't remember the price tag   

[SpaceHedgehog]

Exceptional, extraordinary, remarkable, phenomenal .... or perhaps, just plain awesome.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Thanks guys!!

The water cooling work is beyond words my friend. amazing simply amazing..

ooo And congratulations on the piece in STUFF Magazine. Brill read mate...
 :notworthy:Do me a favour though lower the price just for me...

Thanks. Haven't seen the feature yet, still waiting for a copy of the mag. I hope they did a good job in the photo studio...

Btw, what does the pricing says in the feature? I can't remember the price tag   

790 euros  And they did a great job on the photos. I showed it my missis who hasn't got a clue and she was like ye that's nice. So take it from me, To get a comment like that from her is rare ..ROFL...

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Magazine shoot.

For the benefit of those who wont get to see the piece in STUFF MAGAZINE. here it is.











Beautiful, and its Christmas soon.mmmmmmm

Congrats again quizz_kid   

[quizz_kid]

Thank you for that my friend, that photo looks very good indeed!

Well, with all those hrs I put into a machine like R-Kaid-42, €790 is very cheap. But I know, and sadly, it's not for the everyday wallet 

[Rick]

Well, with all those hrs I put into a machine like R-Kaid-42, €790 is very cheap. But I know, and sadly, it's not for the everyday wallet 

People are buying it for the form first, and function second. It's pure art, sir.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Thank you for that my friend, that photo looks very good indeed!

Well, with all those hrs I put into a machine like R-Kaid-42, €790 is very cheap. But I know, and sadly, it's not for the everyday wallet 

Your more than welcome mate.

Well, with all those hrs I put into a machine like R-Kaid-42, €790 is very cheap. But I know, and sadly, it's not for the everyday wallet 

People are buying it for the form first, and function second. It's pure art, sir.

+1 I couldn't agree more. Like I said Christmas is coming soon. I cant see myself not buying one. I could say its for the other half, That way I could justify buying it. 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Enjoy..

[AGarv]

Thanks for sharing! 790 euros is more than reasonable for a piece of art such as this.  Hell, at that price it is a reasonable investment, as the value will increase with your fame.

[quizz_kid]

Hi guys.

I wanted to try the little actuator for the new blind construction and made a small cylinder thingy from brass to secure the cord. The actuator is soooo tiny(3mm shaft), and I was very skeptic of course.


Some epoxy and a suited o-ring, and it's done...


... and this is the first test. The tiny actuator actually works, and I was suprised how smoth the blind moves up&down. But as I though, the blind itself is too small, vertically that is. AND I've noticed some cracks in the wooden segments...

... So I made a new blind. This time in a creamy heavy-duty woven fabric(canvas like). The wooden blind was a nice touch, but for sake of life-span, canvas is the better choice here.


Close up. Will install it tomorrow, and with this fabric, I think I'll face an even smother blind movement.


//Quizz

[Brian74]

yeah, buddy..  your brand of cool is on it's way out.   

AJ

Where did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.

+1

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2

[quizz_kid]

A small update:

Finsihed the keyboard mod today. Decided to go with the veneer overlay. Some shots below.




This is the backside, when docked to the storage unit. This is also what the top of Revelation'll look like.


And inside the storage you'll find mouse and other Rev accessories.


The storage can also be used as an optional mousepad, although it's a bit small.



Laterz!
//Quizz :::

[emphatic]

W00T! Doesn't look ergonomic, but who cares!? Are the compartments held shut with magnets? 

[rablack97]

I now how no desire to build anything else, as this is just ridiculous.....

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I now how no desire to build anything else, as this is just ridiculous.....

+1M

Like I said before. All my work now sits in smouldering pile at the top of my garden. I have no desire to finish anything. 

Quizz. Your work is truly amazing. You are a master craftsman with unbelievable talent my friend. I couldn't add anything else. 

Other than...Any chance of a discount on one? 

[quizz_kid]

W00T! Doesn't look ergonomic, but who cares!? Are the compartments held shut with magnets? 

Exactly, who care about ergonomics, as long as you look good when your gaming  On a side note, that mouse is actually more ergonomic than it looks, suprisingly.

And yes, they are held docked with magnets.

I now how no desire to build anything else, as this is just ridiculous.....

How do I reply on things like this??... "Thanks" I guess 

Other than...Any chance of a discount on one? 

I'm not really making money from these things, so a friendly discount is not an option right now... But thanks Alpha 

[rablack97]

Yes just say thank you!!!!!!

[quizz_kid]

Yes just say thank you!!!!!!

Thank you! 

[mcseforsale]

I accidentally opened this update on my garage computer.  When I turned around, I saw this:



Looks like someone's a little jealous.

Revelation is a work of art.

AJ

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I accidentally opened this update on my garage computer.  When I turned around, I saw this:



Looks like someone's a little jealous.

Revelation is a work of art.

AJ

Haven't laughed so hard in a while..

[rablack97]

I accidentally opened this update on my garage computer.  When I turned around, I saw this:



Looks like someone's a little jealous.

Revelation is a work of art.

AJ

I thought it was just me seeing things, my projects have the same expression as well...

[stripe4]

This forum thread the best proof that Swedes are just incapable of doing something and ---smurfing--- things up in the process.

Hey quizz_kid, are you sure you are not selling this thing at a loss? I mean, you put two 256 SSDs in that thing, and the rest of the parts are not cheap either.

[TopJimmyCooks]

This forum thread the best proof that Swedes are just incapable of doing something and ---smurfing--- things up in the process.

Uh, lets not go too far - don't forget that SAAB 9-5 with the automatic gear selector that couldn't back up on a hill. 

Quizzkid would never have had anything to do with that - he is operating way above that level!

[mcseforsale]

This forum thread the best proof that Swedes are just incapable of doing something and ---smurfing--- things up in the process.

Uh, lets not go too far - don't forget that SAAB 9-5 with the automatic gear selector that couldn't back up on a hill. 

Quizzkid would never have had anything to do with that - he is operating way above that level!

And, the Saab turbo with the cracking bulkhead/firewall thingie.

Plus, weren't the belts installed toward the firewall?

AJ

[Rick]

Hey hey now. You leave those Saabs alone. I had myself an '87 900 with over 300K on her, and she was a tank. Bought her for $300 and got $500 for scrap. Win win.

[quizz_kid]

I accidentally opened this update on my garage computer.  When I turned around, I saw this:



Looks like someone's a little jealous.
AJ

Haha... Reminds me of the front panel for my first R-Kaid-6 prototype...

Hey quizz_kid, are you sure you are not selling this thing at a loss? I mean, you put two 256 SSDs in that thing, and the rest of the parts are not cheap either.

I'm selling Revelation at a loss yes... If I was to calculate the hrs put into this machine, I'd probably scare myself to death. But hey, it's a fun build.


And let's not go inte SAABs, ok! 

[quizz_kid]

Started playing around with a new design for the interface, art deco style sort of. Quite happy with it.

From above:

1.Start screen
2.Game system selection screen
3.Game selection screen (with snapshot from game)




Also, I've been trying to quiet that damn noisy DC-LT pump. With fan controller, reducing the voltage to about 40%, it's better, but not good enough. Small O-rings between nuts and mounting also helps a bit, but still not quiet. :sigh:

[Le Chuck]

This is the only part of the build that I'm "meh" about so far.  The styling is quite nice but the screen shot is incongrous with the rest of the build, as does the list.  Perhaps only showing one game name at a time in the bottom the screen similar to a caption from a silent movie, then centering the screen shot and doing a treatement to sepia making it look like old film stock would add to the character. 

[Rick]

Also, I've been trying to quiet that damn noisy DC-LT pump. With fan controller, reducing the voltage to about 40%, it's better, but not good enough. Small O-rings between nuts and mounting also helps a bit, but still not quiet. :sigh:

So, why not go the opposite direction and make the sound an integral part of the build? Like, add some type of bubbling sound, or something that might make the sound part of the personality of the system... Just thinking out loud here.

[quizz_kid]

This is the only part of the build that I'm "meh" about so far.  The styling is quite nice but the screen shot is incongrous with the rest of the build, as does the list.  Perhaps only showing one game name at a time in the bottom the screen similar to a caption from a silent movie, then centering the screen shot and doing a treatement to sepia making it look like old film stock would add to the character. 

Hey LeChuck! I really like your silent movie capture idea, would work really nice with the conspet, visually that is =) Problem is, I still need the interface to be very functional as well. I like to have original colors from the games. And I like to have a little bit of overview when scrolling a gamelist with over, say, 3000 games. But I'm gonna try bigger screenshot / less title rows, and maybe change the font.

Also, I've been trying to quiet that damn noisy DC-LT pump. With fan controller, reducing the voltage to about 40%, it's better, but not good enough. Small O-rings between nuts and mounting also helps a bit, but still not quiet. :sigh:

So, why not go the opposite direction and make the sound an integral part of the build? Like, add some type of bubbling sound, or something that might make the sound part of the personality of the system... Just thinking out loud here.

Interesting idea with bubbling sound. But I'm not sure if that kind of conceptual thing would be as pleasant after spending say a few years with Revelation =) You might go crazy, bubble brain crazy!

[quizz_kid]

I some of you guys might get disappointed, but I ditched the plumber work and got regular clear tubing instead.

The reason; Although the leak test turned out great, I simply don't trust my epoxy solution. I really don't need a customer calling me up abot leaks, just beacause I had a "visual idea"(lack of knowledge)

Personally, I'm satisfied with decision. The copper fittings really pop combined with clear tubing, and it gives the setup a real clean look.

A big thank you to Andreas from Aquatuning, for helping me out with additional fittings



Here's the new mounting for the pump, one legged support only. Doesn't make a sound =)


I got this "black" coolant delivered to me yesterday. Yes, the bottle really says "black". I would call that purple, but that's just me I guess??!! Surprisingly, I enjoyed the color, a lot =) Copper and purple, now that's a match!


Overview. Might do something about that res mount though...


Then I picked up this RGB LED strip module that I'll try for lighting inside chassis.


Module mounted, with LED dimmer.


I also finished the volume knob...


and secured the eye of the build, a lens protection in copper...


//Quizz

[mcseforsale]

You sure that's "black" and not "black-light" or UV? 

AJ

[quizz_kid]

You sure that's "black" and not "black-light" or UV? 

AJ

You're right, it is UV   

[TopJimmyCooks]

now you'll just have to get some UV light in there that turns on when you open the case. 

[mcseforsale]

And, you should be able to add UV along with whatever color you choose, such as white.  Just dim that color a little and let the UV stuff shine in the tube.  I think it would be a cool effect.  Especially with the polished brass fittings that are left!

AJ

[quizz_kid]

now you'll just have to get some UV light in there that turns on when you open the case. 

And, you should be able to add UV along with whatever color you choose, such as white.  Just dim that color a little and let the UV stuff shine in the tube.  I think it would be a cool effect.  Especially with the polished brass fittings that are left!

AJ

Yeah, I guess I have to have some UV now 

[quizz_kid]

Btw, for the shade scheme, I'm I thinking right with the dpdt rocker here?

And does it have to be momentary, couldn't I just use a toggle one?

[PL1]

Btw, for the shade scheme, I'm I thinking right with the dpdt rocker here?

And does it have to be momentary, couldn't I just use a toggle one?

Hmmm . . . That diagram looks familiar.

Switch the wires connected to the Down - and Up - terminals on the DPDT switch and you've got it. (see attached diagrams)

It will work with any of these three styles of switches:
1. DPDT 2-position On-On
2. DPDT 3-position On-Off-On
3. DPDT 3-position (Momentary On)-Off-(Momentary On)

The downside to the first two options is if one of the limit switches isn't working or adjusted properly, the motor can reach the end of its range of motion and still have power applied -- eventually burning up the motor or damaging the mechanism.

With option 3, power is only applied for as long as you press the switch which provides a secondary level of protection in addition to the limit switches.

Consider using a switch like this one.



Scott

[quizz_kid]

Thanks Scott!!

Thinking of the downsides, I'll go for momentary, seem stupid not to =)

[quizz_kid]

Update:

First, I made a physical SATA-switch, for the dual-system setup.


Then I decided to have the fillport on top, and welded a G1/4 fitting into the top mesh.


I had to remove some material from two of the top fans to make place for the fillport.


Then I just repainted the mesh.


After that I painted those blue 6-pin PCI-E connectors copper.


Received my new flat riser today, a special 20cm with extra 12v boost. The 30cm(15+15cm) riser didn't work(as predicted) and this was my last hope...


As you can see behind the panel, it's a much better lenght. So I prayed to the evil god...


... and did a testrun. And YES, it worked!! This is soooo releaving, a fail here would jeopardised the entire project. The SATA switch works as well. Very very happy today!


Decided to try paint the riser copper.


I like the result!!


Sooo... With one big obstacle out of the way, it's onto another one, the bind construction.

My construction with pulleys workes, but not ideally. Due to the tiny amount of space up there, and the size of the pulleys, the blind doesn't go far enough and leaves aprox 7cm of the components uncovered.


So this is my new idea. Not really my idea though, thanks to forum member PL1. Anyway, it's another shaft on top, attached directly onto the motor. This way, the blind can be pulled up further, leaving only aprox 2cm uncoverd. Plus, both sides of the blind will be given an equal amount of preassure.


Only thing is, To give the motor some space, I'll have to put a hole in one of the side panels of the chassis. Well, I can just cover it with something nice I guess...


Laterz! :::
//Quizz

[opt2not]

I have no idea what you're doing, but it looks damn sexy.

[emphatic]

looks damn sexy.

FQFT!

[quizz_kid]

I have no idea what you're doing, but it looks damn sexy.

You have no idea? Well me neither!! =)

[quizz_kid]

Some more progress:


Made the upper axis shaft for the blind construction. Since it will be visible, I choose copper of course. I will try to test this new construction next week.


Here are close ups / Left=bearing / Right=motor


And here's the top piece mesh, repainted.


4x120mm fans mounted. You can see the fill port in the middle.


And here's a test fit with the keyboard/storage unit on top.


Another shot...


Here's a VGA cable for the projector which I had to mod some, due to some lack of space.


And here is my "lens-focus-dial-extender" Tech Lego and some distance pieces, all very DIY


Here's how it works, pretty simple...


Just use the lens protection/screwdriver...


... and adjust the focus by screwing. Quite proud of the solution :dremel:


Laterz
//Quizz :::

[Rick]

*sigh*

It's getting to the point that I open the quizz_kid thread, and want to go all Deer Hunter. Who can compete with this??!


 

[yotsuya]

I didn't realize BYOAC was a competition.

I enjoy the level of craftsmanship in everyone's builds.

[Le Chuck]

I didn't realize BYOAC was a competition.

I blame all those D-bags on the UCA panel.

[yotsuya]

HAHAHA. Damn UCA panel!

What I meant was I hate hearing people get down on their own projects comparing then to others.

[emphatic]

Nice focus "pot".  Doesn't hand/knob obscure the picture of the lens while adjusting though?

[quizz_kid]

Nice focus "pot".  Doesn't hand/knob obscure the picture of the lens while adjusting though?

No, not really, unless you have fingers like chorizos But it's not the most ideal placement for a focus dial I guess.

[quizz_kid]

More progress:

Intstalled the PSU today, the Be Quiet! 550w. Just realized I got lots of cables in this build. Got the PC setup, projector, speaker system, LCD, lighting modules, joystick pads etc... Can't believe I'm actually going to fit everything in there.


Here's a shot where you can see the two holes for cable management. The mess you see here are cables for some switches and the projector.


I installed the LEDs. Decided to have two strips for increased lighting, and then use the dim knob for reducing if needed.


Some strip soldering.


Here's a quick test using the remote. Red...

... and blue.


Then I continued on that new blind contruction. Here are some cover pieces in walnut...


Outer side panel. The small motor is mounted into the cover piece with epoxy, a perfect fit.


With everything installed, I attached two cords to the blind. This was actually very tricky, and took me about two days to get it right. First I had to find the right type of cord. Tried several, fishing line, boat rope, regular sewing cotton    etc. I realized I couldn't use any elastic cord, due to the weakness of motor I think. When using fishing line, I got sort of a springback from the tension. I finally got it right using this one, a natural string.


Getting the alignment right took me several tries, but here it is.


You can see the space I had to work with here. Between fans and shaft there's aprox 2mm of margins.


The transparent LCD need backlight to work, so I had to place the sprips with presicion. Here's the blind pulled out to its limit, and you can see the light strip sneaking up just in front of the canvas.


Last shot it with walnut bezel installed. I'm happy I managed to get the blind up as far as I did, covering almost the entire screen. The blind construction has been a real pain, but this is what you get when adding a new element this late in a process.


Now I have to find and install some limit switches for the blind... Then it's time for final assembly :::

[Ond]

Build quality aside (which is outstanding)  I love the radical thinking that goes into this project, both beautiful and functional, sure motivates me!

 

Ond

[blueznl]

This is soooo depressing... 

[lcmgadgets]

That the mighty Ond himself is impressed is...impressive.

[rablack97]

  It's just flat out sickening.....

[quizz_kid]

Thanx guys, really appreciate the feedback!

Got hose limit witches working. Still waiting on a smaller delivery, but should have an update real soon.

//Quizz

[quizz_kid]

I have a question about UV. I just got my purple UV LED strip today, and it doesn't seem to react with the coolant, at all. The coolant I'm using is the "Feser One 1L UV Black". I've never worked with UV before, but shouldn't it react?

[quizz_kid]

Well, seems like the Feser Black UV is pretty sad when it comes to UV reaction. I thereby decided to ditch the UV idea. Well well...

But I have an update:

First, I made some minor adjustments in the loop layout. Removed one of the res mounts, moved the res a bit more to the right. This was to get the fillport centered.


Here's another shot. As you can see I've drained the loop. Will make a refill when everything assebled.


A 2mm sheet of glass...


And here's the transparent LCD, finally ready to be mounted inside the chassis.


A good fit I suppose. You can see the PCB of the LCD touching the blind construction. No margins, what so ever =)


Short flat cable, HDMI.


A pretty good fit there as well.


Then finally, I could put the two chassis segments together and see the resluts of 1000+ hrs.


The backside, well, need some serious cable management. There's cables EVERYWHERE, don't know where to start really =) Give me few more day...


Until then, here's some quick tests playing with the RGB strip.

Green


Purle



//Quizz

[Brian74]

  

[rablack97]

 

[emphatic]

Makalöst. 

[Rick]

Makalöst. 

överenskommen!

[quizz_kid]

Makalöst. 

överenskommen!

Tacksamhet!

[mcseforsale]

Y'all talk funny.  A'int this a 'Merican forum? (in my best deep south twang)

Excellent work!  Oh, and that workshop is amazing.  Even the view of the area its in is the business. 

AJ

[quizz_kid]

Y'all talk funny.  A'int this a 'Merican forum? (in my best deep south twang)

Excellent work!  Oh, and that workshop is amazing.  Even the view of the area its in is the business. 

AJ

Thanks AJ




Update:


Been having some real issues with the transparent LCD. I don't know if the PCB is damaged or something. It worked a week ago, but now it will not operate. With the original 5v power supply, nothing happens. The LED on the supply lit when connected to the wall, but starts to blink as I plug it into the LCD. When I then tried using a 5v line from the PSU instead, the LCD works. But after a few seconds, I smell somethings burning, I see a little smoke coming from the LCDs PCB and I disconnect it. Did this 3 times, trying to locate the damage somehow.

Here's a close up of the PCB. It was hard to determine the source of the smoke, but it's one of the component inside the red circles.



Here's the original plug connected(used the same plug when using 5v line on PSU), and you can see that is does not go all the way in. I don't think it has anything to do with it, but I need all the help I can get here.




Any thoughts?  :sigh::sigh::sigh:

[mcseforsale]

Has the center electrode INSIDE the jack been bent over?

AJ

[quizz_kid]

I can check tomorrow, but could that really be the issue?

[Generic Eric]

I can check tomorrow, but could that really be the issue?

I've seen that be a problem on a CD player.

[AGarv]

Amazing as always - looking forward to seeing that transparent LCD fired up and displaying games!

[mes83]

Absolutely amazing work. Love the craftmanship.

Your mouse almost resembles an old Amiga mouse. Just angle the sides a little and it will be perfect.

Cannot wait to see your next update.

[quizz_kid]

Thanks guys. I've got a strange boot problem.

While working on Revelation, I have to keep it upside down due to the construction. Everything works fine upside down. But as soon as I flip it around, I cant get it to boot. I get the classic start up with everything's running for 5 secs, no display, then reboots, over and over again. What could be the issue here?

I have no ideas, at all. Something is triggered when I flip the computer around I guess, but what? So strange, because everything seems to be in place. I'm desperate, and open for any guesses right now.

[a1pharm]

Make sure you aren't somehow shorting the power button circuit.  If you are, it will do exactly what you describe.

[quizz_kid]

Make sure you aren't somehow shorting the power button circuit.  If you are, it will do exactly what you describe.

Yeah, I'm ggoing to look into it more tomorrow. But why would it short only when the chassis is turned upside down. There's no pressure on the power cable or anything. Well, will look into it tomorrow. Thanks!

[quizz_kid]

The issue is sorted out, finally. It was one of the RAM sticks actually. During first leak test I must've been sloppy, and a single drop of fluid got into the RAM connectors.

Got new sticks now, and I'm back on track. I can finally finish this beast...

I made a refill using the new fillport on top.


And then I made a backplate in stained ply for final touch.


Final pictures coming up next!!

[Ond]

The magnificent machine!  I imagine archeologists uncovering this in a dig a thousand years from now interpreting its purpose.....

[quizz_kid]

The magnificent machine!  I imagine archeologists uncovering this in a dig a thousand years from now interpreting its purpose.....

  Yeah, lets hope so. The people of earth will find true meaning... A greater, future arcade culture will rise, and cure the world, once and for all!!!

[quizz_kid]

Over 1000 hrs went into this machine. Had a lot of setbacks in the end, but I guess it was worth it.


Well, here are finals... Hope you'll enjoy!

R-Kaid-Revelation














































































Video demonstration(Music credits: Turrican scores performed and supported by Chris Huelsbeck)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Da8c2uauncA

Making of video






//Quizz

[TopJimmyCooks]

Really incredible - both the woodworking and the overall design are superlative.  I love the complications of the roller shade, the onboard controllers and the overall packaging. 

[Ond]

Congratulations on a really original, interesting, and finely crafted project quizz_kid.  I've suggested it before, but you've managed to combine some highly talented wood and metal work with a kind of super geek design approach which fires the curiosity and imagination.  Much more than just an arcade machine, it’s also great art and I’m sure a talking piece for years to come.

[mgb]

I kinda looked in on this one a couple of times and was like, yeah its nice. wood working is slick but whats the point.
tonight I took the time to look deeper and I watched the video.
 
Awesome. very off beat and nutty. Job very well done.

[Superfrog]

  unbelievable 

It's one of a kind 

You can be proud of it ...   

[a1pharm]

 

[emphatic]

Super-sexy. When do you start on your next project? 

[quizz_kid]

Thanks guys, really appreciate it!!! Im very glad it's over though, last two months has been real PITA...

Got some new projects on my do-list, and one is arcade related ... That means you'll be stucked with me a little longer =)

[sudopinion]

Absolutely phenomenal.  Gorgeous and elegant.  INGENIOUS.

[matsadona]

Instämmer med tidigare talare - makalöst!

Regarding the UV liquid issue. First there are some variations when it comes to wave lengths. There are different type of UV LED's, and depending of type there are big differences in efficiency.
Maybe looting one of these can be a better alternative?
http://www.conrad.se/?websale8=conrad-swe&pi=751778&refKey=lEXlFRykX

When it comes to fluid, you can try to put some UV reactive bubble machine fluid, like this one:
http://www.thomann.de/se/eurolite_uv_seifenblasenfluid_1_lt.htm

[rockyrocket]

True art - well done!.

[ark_ader]

Love it! 

[quizz_kid]

Thanks guys!! ... and she still runs like a charm, no issues!! 

Regarding the UV liquid issue. First there are some variations when it comes to wave lengths. There are different type of UV LED's, and depending of type there are big differences in efficiency.
Maybe looting one of these can be a better alternative?
http://www.conrad.se/?websale8=conrad-swe&pi=751778&refKey=lEXlFRykX

When it comes to fluid, you can try to put some UV reactive bubble machine fluid, like this one:
http://www.thomann.de/se/eurolite_uv_seifenblasenfluid_1_lt.htm

Thanks. I've read about the coolant I'm using, and it is suppose to be UV reactive, but also hardly noticeable. Well well...

Regarding the bubble machine fluid. I love the idea, but the bubbles will def cause problems in the loop, sadly

[Santoro]

Holy smoke. Astounding build.

[lcmgadgets]

Yeah, I don't know, it's okay, I guess. 

...YEAH, RIGHT!! Has no one else said this yet?!:

   HALL OF FAME! HALL OF FAME! HALL OF FAME!!   

& I'm getting a nerd boner wondering what your next project might b!

Really man, this is above & beyond, in all ways! Congrats!

[quizz_kid]

Thanks guys, appreciate it!

My next build will be something smaller, say somewhat portable... Well, more about that next year.

//quizz

[ninjasquirrel]

I've been away for many months with life, kids, job etc and come back to this great forum, and the first post I happen upon is this fantastic build! That was well worth over an hour of reading and re-reading to browse through this build.  Like OND and many others you have gone above and beyond the 'normal' for an arcade build to produce a piece of art that can be appreciated for much more than a vessel to play games on.    great job quizz_kid, the craftsmanship and creativeness and amazing! Looking forward to the next project!

[quizz_kid]

Appreciate your kind words squirrel!! 

[BAMBOO]

This thread makes me feel like a monkey trying to figure out how to use a wrench for the first time.