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If you haven't already, read this: https://www.mamedev.org/?p=563

If TL/DR, basically Windows 10 and 11 are the only versions where it will work. I tried Windows 7: there's an entry point not found so cannot start.

Also, for the Unix folk, QT5 is gone, need to use QT6.

Minimum version of GCC is now 11, although they recommend Clang. I'm staying with GCC while it works.

I haven't built 32-bit for a long time but I've heard it will no longer compile.

No April release; May is expected to be the next one.

I suspect that it might be possible to fix the windows 7 issue; I have a theory but can't be bothered to try it out.

This also means that the next "official" releases of ARCADE64 and MAMEUI will also be restricted to Win10/11 64-bit.

If you guys want to see what works, grab the latest git and try building.

$1K is actually cheaper than the comps sold in this successful KS ca. 2016 https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/multigamesystem/kawaii-cade-japanese-style-bartop-arcade-cabinets. I have a BOM spreadsheet for the countercades I've created and the totals are never less than $600, not including the many hundreds spent on R&D dead-ends. Apprx. $50 reclaimed mon, $25 Sanwa Joystick, $30 Sanwa buttons, $15 power button, $15 select/start buttons, $10 screws, $15 heat-nut inserts, $10 crimp connects, $20 wires, $15 HDMI splitter, $7 x 3 HDMI cables, $10 x 3 panel mounts, $10 speakers, $25 amp, $28 paint/clear coat, $23 spot putty, $50 filament, $130 R Pi5, $80 custom CP and sideart, $21 psu, $7 fan, $8 fan button, $10 JST connectors, $9 USB panel mounts, $10 LEDs, $18 encoder... that's just raw materials off the top of my head and I'm forgetting a bunch of stuff. A prototype countercade takes over 250 hours from CAD to completion. Subsequent builds are about half as expensive in times of time and only slightly less in money but are still not cheap! This is an expensive hobby but you get a lot out of it!

One thousand dollars?

Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!

The mini Taito Egrett costs now around 350 bucks and it's a toy...
The MGS version is around 1600 dollars, it's good but it's 3D printed, no marquee, no base, just a tabletop with a mini pc,
this version is for those who want to train and at the same time buying something solid with a complete design...
production price is high cause all parts will be made with a factory mold plus the electronic components are all premium...
same thing happened with the Neo Geo AES, quality had a price in the 90's like in 2026... nothing crazy actually...
DIY is surely the way for a low budget solution.

One thousand dollars?

Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!

Apparently it costs $1,000 a year to keep his memory alive and we should all be grateful and crack open our wallets.

 

Dumb question again, I don't see anything in the .ini where it is marked //display

Also, tried to install superres and modelines were all rejected....

Holy crap, Driverman. That’s a name I haven’t heard in forever.

For the time being I think I am gonna try to continue to use the original wisker switches, but I may change that out after I see how they work.

AFAIK the main downside to using the original switches is how they are positioned.
- A ball that drops through the 50 hole rolls down the channel and hits the 50 switch . . . then the 40, 30, 20, and 10 switches.

Pretty sure Nipsmg's software needs a setup where each ball only trips one switch.



i read somewhere in that entire thread (which i read every post last night at 11pm so i might have missed some stuff lol) that it only one of the modes only registers the first switch tripped then wont read another switch until the ball is thru the  "drain" switch. i will be experimenting with that when i get the pc together. i have a mother board and stuff but no hard drive or  graphics card yet.


Scott

For the time being I think I am gonna try to continue to use the original wisker switches, but I may change that out after I see how they work.

AFAIK the main downside to using the original switches is how they are positioned.
- A ball that drops through the 50 hole rolls down the channel and hits the 50 switch . . . then the 40, 30, 20, and 10 switches.

Pretty sure Nipsmg's software needs a setup where each ball only trips one switch.




Scott

I'm trying to figure out how to replace the scoreboard with a monitor and use something like an old PC or laptop to run a digital screen. I've seen many people here have achieved the same and I look forward to any help and input on ways I can accomplish this. Heard that there's a JumpBall program out there that might be what I need but cant seem to find who has it.

You might want to check out Nipsmg's Major League Skeeball thread here.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156300.0.html

If you want to use the Adafruit 2167 or 2168 beam break sensors, this Thingiverse model along with 1/2" x 1/2" C-channel aluminum, #8-32 x 1" machine screws and #8-32 threaded inserts will provide protection and make it easier to maintain.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2932740



JumpBall is RandyT's software.
- Not sure about the current status and system requirements.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,29838.0.html

The Software will be available free of charge, for personal use, to current and future users of the KeyWiz keyboard encoder product line.

If you own a KeyWiz and would like a copy , drop me a line and I'll put you on a beta list..  As usual,  all feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,
RandyT

If JumpBall won't run on a modern system, you should be able to run it by using MAME to emulate Win95.
- If needed, I can provide a known good configuration command line batch file for emulating Win95 with a SoundBlaster.


Scott

 I actually have reached out to RandyT but have gotten no response yet. I did find nipsmg and his major league skeeball and have decided if nothing else I will use that to run my new system. I am working on pricing together an old pc to use and run it. For the time being I think I am gonna try to continue to use the original wisker switches, but I may change that out after I see how they work.