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Thanks for the replies. I’m in IL. My brother has a couple of 1ups which are cool but in My mind they do not compare with a real Mame cab. I originally got interested in this around’08. I got the John st Claire book and bought some MDF, couple of coin mechs and some custom tokens. I also got a multi resolution crt that was popular back in the day.  Then decided to go back to school. Graduated and moved into a small house. We are remodeling our basement and was considering if we had enough room for a cab. Was considering buying one of those kits from north coast customs and realized they went out of business.

Do you have any opinions on this lay out? I have some 1/4 ply I'm gonna mock up some layouts on to try before I move to the metal for my cab



For my speakers, I want to keep the speakers in the cab. I know that's limiting but it's what I want to do.

There are still people building legitimate cabinets but few want to pay what it really costs to build them.
To even get apprentice type wages on building a complete machine including all parts, materials, artwork, etc. puts a regular upright into the realm of $4k+ depending on all the details.

And sure it will play games but no matter what parts you change on it, an Arcade 1Up will never be a good long term investment in a gaming machine.
A properly made one will survive decades of regular use.

I built multi machines that have been in a surf shop and pizza parlor in my town for 5 years and counting and I haven't had to perform a single bit of maintenance on either.

No modded 1Up would have lasted so long.

Where do you live?
You DO need to be careful about custom builders though as there are a few guys building what look like ok machines but they are cutting corners on process, over-charging for materials, and offer terrible service overall.

If you haven't already, I recommend joining the KLOV forum. There are more original machine enthusiasts over there, while this forum is more specialized to self-built machines, MAME, emulation, etc.

You'll have better luck on KLOV that someone can help you diagnose.

For the machines I care about Win7 or Win10. Usually so I can easily customize the front-end and use CRT EmuDriver.

I think 1up Arcade (and similar) really took this type of market over. They're essentially pre-made emulation cabinets. And, with the right know-how, they can be upgraded into a MAME machine pretty easily. High-end, expensive, pre-built MAME cabinets would have a hard time competing with that.

Casuals can buy the 1up. People who care slightly more can buy a 1up and upgrade it. And the people who really care (like us at BYOAC) will build our own.

There's also AtGames Legend Ultimate machines. https://www.atgames.us/collections/legends-ultimate-arcade-hd-machines

And of course I had a battle with the image bots-

Thanks for the top quality hat PBJ!

mo

And so finally a post of more progress!
As of this morning I have the thing working 100%.
For now anyway of course.

I got irritated enough with the displays that I repinned that entire harness also- and still had one totally dead and another in seizure inducing flicker mode.
Dug around to find info on these plasma monsters and stumbled onto Steve Kulpa's waybackmachined website, and man is it good for working on this era machine.

As pbj wisely has said before, its all about the connectors.
After I repinned the harness and replaced those I found cold solder joints that would explain the display faults.
One had a flaky pin on the higb voltage line and the other a bad pin for the 5V line.
Reflowed all of those and voila- plasmolized joy!

Only other major issue was the drop targets not resetting nicely.
One would just launch- too far- and then come down cockeyed and stick.


A quick search on that issue (after taking the thing apart three times on my own and not finding anything obvious that I screwed up before) revealed that of course I wasn't the only person who suffered this malady.

I guess Bally design on drop target banks that era just sucked.
The fix is to install a rod between the springs and the target itself that prevents the things from getting boosted too high by the coil and reset bar.
What is REALLY odd thing is that there is already a pair of holes in the perfect spots to do this- but no rod!

So I remembered having a piece of 3/16" rod laying around and checked to see if it would fit the holes- and it is perfect- so out comes the cutting dies.


A little of this and that and you have a ready made drop target bank fix.
[img width=1024 height=1024]https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=398481;image[/
img]

It is hard to believe but I actually have a pin that is 100% functional now!

That would make one out of four 

Thank you for the response.   I'll see if I can check the changes from the A/B pulses and double check everything again.