Tzakiel's UAII 2P Fighter CRT Build

[Tzakiel]

Quick links to thread updates:

Control panel plan:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1396473.html#msg1396473

Marquee concept:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1396852.html#msg1396852

Realizing I suck at cutting MDF:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1396936.html#msg1396936

Realizing I suck at measuring MDF:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1398368.html#msg1398368

Hand picked game list:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1397150.html#msg1397150

Fixing the control panel box pieces:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1398609.html#msg1398609

Final marquee and CP art:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1398618.html#msg1398618

Got the control box put together, paint issues and artwork received in mail:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1400604.html#msg1400604

Coming together - Routing, artwork and plexi:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1403274.html#msg1403274

Photo of near-final cabinet:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.msg1403993.html#msg1403993


---------------------------

The Concept:
A North Coast/Mameroom UAII cabinet with custom control panel, 2 players, primarily for 2d fighting games. Look and feel of a fighting cabinet. Most importantly - a CRT screen running games in real native resolutions via RBG.

Inspiration:
Trips to Japan, playing in arcades there, experience with Hori, Sanwa parts and fighting games. I got really into Street Fighter 4, picked up and modded a Hori stick for that. Then I learned about how great KOF, SF3, the Last Blade, etc are, and now I want a full cabinet.

Construction:
I am using a North Coast UAII kit, which I purchased because I have zero woodworking experience outside of drilling and screwing. I also purchased their marquee holder and plexiglass front monitor cover, as well as a HAPP 27" curved bezel. I'll make my own control panel even though I am a woodworking newbie.

Display
For as accurate of an experience as possible, I am using a video card supported by CRT_emu drivers from Calamity, which goes VGA out to a TC1600 transcoder from Crescendo Systems. The transcoder sends unscaled RGB component signal to the TV. I'm using a Toshiba 27A50 as a display, because it is the right dimensions (I hope) and has component-in. So far that is working beautifully, though it took research and help to get set up. I use Groovymame for native resolution switching. The video card is also powerful enough to support modern console emulators.

Front End / Game Support
I will be running Groovymame for native resolution support. That emulator, along with NullDC, Zsnes, Daphne, a Gamecube, PSX, and PS2 emulator will all launch from Hyperspin. Hyperspin will probably be difficult to set up, but I love the look. I am hoping to get the other emulators to output native resolutions as well if possible. I am hand-picking a list of games I feel are going to be popular with guests and that I personally like. I am avoiding a lot of duplicative or iterative games in the list.

Control Panel Art and Design:
1/2" MDF and plexi. Artwork TBD but I know I want a vewlix or egret-inspired design, which I will draw myself in illustrator and sandwich under plexi.

Something like this design-wise:
http://media.eventhubs.com/images/2010/01/14_vewlix01.jpg

Button layout will be Astro city style like this for both players:



The CP will have two Sanwa JLF sticks, 8 sanwa screw in buttons per player, 1p start, 1p coin, 2p start, 2p coin, pause, exit buttons. Might also do volume up/down buttons on side of cabinet where they are reachable but out of the way.

Parts Acquired:

Sanwa JLF sticks x2 with wire harnesses and dust washers
Sanwa ball tops x2 and 30mm buttons x8, white
Happ 1p, 2p, 2x blue, 2x white, 1x red, 1x yellow buttons (for coin, exit, pause, volume)
i-pac PCB
Crappy usb PC speakers
Ground wire daisy chains and colored wires for controls





Tools I Plan to Use:

Fixed base router
Jigsaw with wood and plastic cutting blades
Circular saw
Power drill
30mm and 24mm hole saws and arbor
Top-bearing flush trim router bit
1/16" slotting router bit
Countersinks for JLF mounting flush
Velcro strips
Wire crimper/cutter
Screwdrivers and other basic hand tools



Next Steps:
Assemble UAII cabinet
Paint speaker cutouts in cabinet (they are unpainted and I think the raw MDF will be visible)
Start planning dimensions of control panel once I have cabinet together
Research CP construction, routing, jigsaw cutting, and JLF top-mounting

[Yenome]

nice start i was thinking of building me one of japan style sticks since i wont be getting there anytime soon fig it was the next best thing. tho personally ill be dropping the 4th button on the top row. since ill only be using it for games that use only up to 6 4th button i like for neogeo

[Tzakiel]

Progress: I got the UAII cabinet almost completely built. I didn't do a good job of taking photos of the process, but overall I'd say it's a "pretty good" product. It does have some issues. Some of the pieces arrived chipped or cracked. In some cases, it didn't really matter and I filled in with a black marker. In other places, the corners were crushed:



However, North Coast was willing to ship me replacement parts free of charge. So, that's good... It's still a bit annoying, since the boxes were sort of loosely packed. There is a lot of styrofoam, but things still slide around and get damaged. And the shipping ain't cheap.

Also, some of the directions in the manual didn't match reality... such as the drawer rails being a different size than pictured, and one step calling for parts that don't exist (and luckily aren't needed). But it was definitely easier than cutting my own panels entirely. Next time I might try that but for this first effort, I was glad to have a cabinet kit. Just be aware that if you buy this, you will need to problem solve here and there.





Anyway, I ended up getting it done. I put these sliders on the bottom (along the side rails/edges which touch the ground) to help slide it around on the carpet. Later on, I was glad I did. Next time I might put even more of a "foot" on each corner to help it slide better. You can't just put wheels or feet on the floor piece, unfortunately, because it's just particleboard suspended on cams and floating, rather than sitting on the floor itself.



The Toshiba 27A50 TV fit perfectly into the cabinet and also works well with the 27" Happ curved bezel. I had to trim the bezel with a utility knife to fit the cabinet and the height of the screen. That was a bit scary and I learned that I stink at using a utility knife to cut straight lines. But, amazingly, it got done and looks decent. I did also have to remove the bottom wood strip from the UAII bezel frame in order to slide the TV up far enough into the bezel curve. Once I did that, the fit was pretty good.

I also installed USB speakers with velcro strips and a fluorescent under cabinet light for the marquee. I have the retainers and plexi for it, but haven't installed that yet.



Here it is all hooked up and working great!



I'm very happy with the Toshiba TV and TC1600 transcoder combo. The TV has a good picture and accepts the unscaled component from the transcoder beautifully. This means that games run in original resolution via Groovymame, with scanlines intact.



It also has power return which is nice, so you can just kill the TV power and restore it when ready to play. Since the TV worked out so well, I will probably look for a spare to keep in storage for the inevitable day it breaks.

Next steps:

• Plan and start cutting MDF for control panel - it looks like I will need to build a box rather than just a board. Will make another post about that soon.
• Plexiglass over the monitor bezel - I have this, not sure if it should go over top of bezel but I can't see why not.

[CaptainMarvel]

Looking Great thus far !!!


I'm planning to build a UAII as well - though from scratch using the UAII cut and assembly plans from North Coast. 
Nevertheless, I really enjoy watching other's UAII projects come together. 

How's progress thus far on your control panel?

[emphatic]

That TV picture is amazzzzzing. 

[Tzakiel]

Welp, I am about to start cutting 1/2" mdf for control panel and box to mount on the cabinet. Here is the plan:


(Ignore cam and screw holes, used north coast diagram as a reference.)

The goal is to make sure the panel is flush with the uaii shelf rails at the base, and 28.5" across the top to match width of the cabinet. The "floor" of the box will be inset into the 4 sides.

Questions:

1. Does this seem sound? Any reason not to do pieces like this?

2. I'm realizing I will have to paint the base/box part. What sort of paint should I use to match the cabinet's black laminate fairly closely?

3. Should I paint the pieces before assembling box or after?

4. How should I assemble the box sides and floor panels? I am thinking L brackets and wood screws? Will that work for mdf?  Or should I do drywall screws and glue as I have seen on subwoofer forums? Looking for the easiest option that is still going to be somewhat sturdy. It doesn't need to be a tank, but I'd like things to go together fairly tight.

[Sjaak]

Will the Sanwa buttons fit in the 5/8" wood?

[Tzakiel]

Will the Sanwa buttons fit in the 5/8" wood?

It's 1/2" MDF with 1/8" plexi on top, for the CP.  No, they will not fit.  I will be routing out the bottom of the CP to about 1/4" where the buttons are. Will also be top-mounting the JLF with a slight recess for the plate.

[Tzakiel]

Reading around more, it seems like butt joints with carpenter glue and drywall screws is probably the way to go?  Any idea what screws would be a good size/diameter for the 1/2" edges? I assume I would drill holes first and countersink.

Only problem is this will leave exposed screw heads on the outside of the cabinet. :[

[CaptainMarvel]

Why not try dowel joinery?

You can get a self centering dowel jog pretty inexpensively via Harbor Freight Tools

[Tzakiel]

Thanks Captain, I will read up about it.

Marquee

While I try to figure out the CP box joining method and such, what do you all think of this for marquee?  Control panel art would have a similar theme.

Edit: updated with new marquee after I got some feedback.

[rablack97]

Check out control panel section...its similar to yours, i've done this a few times and works well


http://robandgabe.com/rdowney/arcadeodyssey/

Another way is here...

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,118612.120.html

Also the reason why nobody is posting to your thread is because you've skipped details in your build, when you just show results, folks just glance and go..

If you show me detail in how your building, then you'll get more of a response..

Good Luck

[Tzakiel]

Also the reason why nobody is posting to your thread is because you've skipped details in your build, when you just show results, folks just glance and go..

I'm not sure what you mean?  I stated that I assembled the UAII kit from north coast, showed a pic of that, and then I laid out my plan for the CP with specific questions about building it. That is where I am at. Not sure what other "build" details I have to share at the moment?

Thanks for links, I will check them out. Your control panel box is beautiful... don't know if I have the skill for that... nice mitered edges and custom glue clamps, etc. Good work though.

[rablack97]

Understood, its was a kit though, you have already assembled it.

I get the same let down all the time, cause I don't post enough pics of putting the project together.  I just post results, people seem to be more interested in the different techniques used in construction.

So your on the right track with the CP to get more interaction on your build. 

That's not my build, that's rdowneys Arcade odyssey.

At this point, look at it like this, it's just a box, there is no wrong way to do it.  Once the glue sets, its not going anywhere.

Dowel joinery

Pocket Screws

Glue and mitered joints - thats the route i took in my build no custom clamps needed  (Black's Magic)

L-Brackets

Bottom line its a box, the art, is how you hide all of the hardware.

Fillers, Bondo, and placement of your hardware.  Look at the 2nd example i gave using the bracing blocks.  Fill in any gaps with filler or bondo, sand, and keep it moving....

Oh, paint the box after you put it together and are happy with the angles and aesthetics.  Prime, sand, and Spray paint and or foam rollers will do just fine.

[Tzakiel]

Thanks for the encouragement. I just attempted to make my first cut on the MDF.  It's all wavy.  I really am a woodworking novice and have a lot to learn. :[  I tried to use a jigsaw with a long, clamped metal level as a guide. Did not go very well! Then I tried another cut freehand following my line and that was even worse. I might have to go for the circular saw.

[CaptainMarvel]

Thanks for the encouragement. I just attempted to make my first cut on the MDF.  It's all wavy.  I really am a woodworking novice and have a lot to learn. :[

Exactly the reason I created a WOODWORKING RESOURCES for the BYOAC'er  thread/resource.

 



Check out  ROBERT DOWNEY'S YOUTUBE CHANNEL --> http://www.youtube.com/user/rdowney111?feature=playlist
Not sure if Robert Downey is a member here on the BYOAC Forum, but I stumbled across his YouTube videos/channel a while back and found several of his video clips demonstrating various steps in the construction process to be very helpful visual "how to's" - including jigsawing side panels, router flush trimming and cutting out circles with the router.

[Tzakiel]

Well, after 2 bad cuts I took a deep breath, re-drew my control panel shape in pencil on a different part of the MDF, measured the blade-to-boot distance on the jigsaw, clamped down my guide and measured everything, and tried again.



 

Not only is it wavy, but it's off angle from the line as well. So the guide must have moved somehow. I never would have thought the hardest part of this project would be cutting a simple straight line. At this rate I am going to have to buy more MDF. And I've got 5 pieces to go after this one.

Is this radically easier with a circular saw or am I just going to run into the same issues if I can't get the guide right?

[CaptainMarvel]

I never would have thought the hardest part of this project would be cutting a simple straight line. At this rate I am going to have to buy more MDF. And I've got 5 pieces to go after this one.

Is this radically easier with a circular saw or am I just going to run into the same issues if I can't get the guide right?

For long straight cuts like that, I (personally) would use my circular saw over my jigsaw.

Of course, making sure the edge guide is clamped secure is monumentally important.


Here are some great resources for how to create an accurate circular saw cutting guide  . . .

http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/how-tame-tearout-circular-saw


http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-Precise-Circular-Saw-Router-Guide/


http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497

[rablack97]

No worries I have the same problem of cutting straight lines.

Marvel linked to a great jig, I suggest you build one of those since your new to woodworking.

Lining up the disance from the sawblade to your cut line is a bit taxing if your a newb.  I've ruined tons of sheets of mdf.

I'm with Marvel, circular saw for your longer rough cuts, jigsaw for your ninja precise cuts.  Now some folks are good at the jigsaw and can just straight lines no problem, this requires a steady hand.  The look of your cuts tell me your pushing hard against the fence instead of forward, your so worried about the guide that your putting too much pressure on the guide, hence the wavy line.  The force should be forward not sideways.

Always double check your clamps, try to move them with your hands with a good amount of force, make sure your piece is clamped to something as well, just clamping the straight edge is not enough....

For now, make jig 2, you kinda went pro too soon, jigsaw cuts are a more advanced technique.

[Tzakiel]

Thanks all.  I am going to pick up a fine tooth circular blade tonight and possibly make that jig as well. I like the simplicity of it even though it's a few extra steps to make it.

[CaptainMarvel]

Thanks all.  I am going to pick up a fine tooth circular blade tonight and possibly make that jig as well. I like the simplicity of it even though it's a few extra steps to make it.

A few steps to make it, but it will serve you well for a very long time - for all kinds of projects. 

You can make several - of different lengths - if you like as well ... and then just pull out the best length for the particular project at any given time.



 

[Tzakiel]

I picked up a 60 tooth finish saw for my circular. Will give that a try when baby allows... (the joys of being a new father!)

[a1pharm]

I picked up a 60 tooth finish saw for my circular. Will give that a try when baby allows... (the joys of being a new father!)

Congrats on being a dad!  Make sure you put in a coin door and pay out allowance in quarters.  If you do it right, you can just recycle the allowance each week, and this thing will pay for itself!

Kidding aside, use the circular saw for straight cuts, and use a guide.  Do not push against the guide, just allow it to show you the way.  Go slow with your cuts, and get your face close to what you're doing so you can tell if you're doing it right (and, of course, wear your safety glasses and mask).  MDF in the eyes and lungs = a bad time.

As for joining the panels together: use a 2x2 pine board.  Drill pilot holes into it.  Apply Gorilla glue to the 2x2, place it at the joint end of one board, clamp in in place: hard, and screw it in place.  Do this on the other side of the board.  Then do this on the board that is opposite.  Then attach the side boards to the boards that now have the pine boards.  This results in no screws on the outside of the the box.  Take a look at how martijn or I attached pine boards to our side panels, and then attached the front/back panels to those side panels.  Same concept.

You could also just put screws on the outside of the box, and countersink them.  Make sure the screws are below the surface of the board, and apply joint compound or drywall mud over the screw head.  Then sand it, and apply paint.

As for painting: I would paint the box prior to assembly, especially if you are using spray paint (which might be the only way to get a similar finish to the laminate).  Take a look at "hammered" spray paint.  Buy few cans of different options and test it out on some scrap.  Also: be sure you use primer before applying paint to bare wood, or use a paint that already has primer in it.

Sorry for the lack of pictures and long-winded explanations, but I think I gave you all of the info you requested.

You may not think so now, but you will build another cab someday.  Try to think of things you would do differently to improve your process.  If you're brave, share them with this forum to help others out.

The build is looking good so far, and that screen is AMAZING!  This is what most people will be focusing on.  You'll always see the faults in your build, but almost no one else will (unless you point them out).

Keep up the good work!
Cheers!
 

[rablack97]

Interesting, paint before your assemble?  Hope your assembly pieces together perfect and you have no gaps

[Zzap]

I can fully reccommend the building of a sawboard to assist in the cuts. It took me a little while to get it right (see my project http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135290.0.html), but it's been invaluable in getting nice straight cuts since. I used a jigsaw for my previous build, got "ok" results, needed a lot of sanding to get straight, and never perfect.

[a1pharm]

Interesting, paint before your assemble?  Hope your assembly pieces together perfect and you have no gaps

If you don't get it perfect, doing touch up painting will be easy.  Sanding a box that's put together in between coats is a pain in the ass, especially if the paint runs (happens often when the surface you are painting is not parallel to the ground).

[rablack97]

Hmm, I didnt have any problems spray painting my CP, after it was put together, I just used light coats, never had a run problem.

The inside of the CP doesnt have to be perfect, and outside corners are easy to sand.

However, everyone has their own technique, no way is the wrong way if the results are nice in the end....

[a1pharm]

Hmm, I didnt have any problems spray painting my CP, after it was put together, I just used light coats, never had a run problem.

The inside of the CP doesnt have to be perfect, and outside corners are easy to sand.

However, everyone has their own technique, no way is the wrong way if the results are nice in the end....

You're right: there's more than one way to skin a cat.

[Tzakiel]

Game List

While we wait for me to get my act together and make a saw guide, I thought it might be entertaining to share my intended games list. As I said, I wanted a hand-picked list for Hyperspin so users don't have to cycle through a long list of bad or repetitive versions of games across different platforms.

Where games are red, I am acknowledging there are duplicates and I need to test and see if one or the other is "the" one to keep. I also have a "Works" column for my MAME games, because so many of them have rom or bios problems and I needed to start keeping a log of all the games I need to fix. I wish there was an easier way to get them all working. I started with a torrent and have been fixing from there. Where that column is blank just means I haven't gotten to testing that game yet.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AqNEYT4M5QOVdDdjakl5b3dGcnhVRDNFT1pJbm0tblE&usp=sharing

Many of these I have played, many are recommendations from forums or other users for games that are must-plays. Obviously the consoles have a ton of fantastic games but I tried to limit it mostly to games that work well with digital d-pad style control. Let me know if there are any gems I have missed.

[Tzakiel]

Well, here we go.

I re-drew my CP plan on the mdf:



I made the saw guide. It wasn't too hard to do and I am pleased with the result. Here is a pic of me about to cut off my previous badly cut edge (to the right).



The saw guide did what it advertised. I simply lined up the edge with my drawn line and you can see here the cut does lines up exactly with the edge of the guide and my mark.



I did screw up in the picture above. I forgot to change depth of the saw, because I forgot I was adding another half inch of "thickness" due to the guide. But that was easily fixed. I got a straight cut!

Then the baby started bawling so I hung it up for the night... but I am encouraged that this works and now I can use the guide to finish all of my cuts. I am hoping to just cut everything else tomorrow if possible.

Question: Should I use the jigsaw or the router with flush trim bit to freehand cut the rounded corners from the font of the CP? (See first pic above.) I am nervous that I will go inside my lines or get something less than perfectly round corners.

[AlienInferno]

To cut the rounded corners on my control panel I used a jigsaw to cut close to the line. Staying outside that line by a little bit. Then went at it with some sand paper to get it to completion.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[a1pharm]

Use the jigsaw for the rounded corner if you are doing it free hand (you will have a hard time seeing the router bit).  If you can "trace" something for the curve, use the flush trim.

Using a normal size router for free hand precision work usually results in frustration, lost time, swearing, and redoing your work.  Unless you're pro.

[rablack97]

Use the jigsaw for the rounded corner if you are doing it free hand (you will have a hard time seeing the router bit).  If you can "trace" something for the curve, use the flush trim.

Using a normal size router for free hand precision work usually results in frustration, lost time, swearing, and redoing your work.  Unless you're pro.

+1

[mercury187]

I tried to make some mini CPs last week and I'm glad i'm not the only one that had trouble cutting a simple straight line, had my guide all clamped and everything also. It appears the only way i've gotten success is to use a table saw..

[Yenome]

*GASP* how do you not have KI working? not saying you think this but i have noticed from a few people i speak to they all believe KI doesnt work past like mame 1.2? something. i tell them i been playing Ki since i got into mame and it has always worked for me dont know what trouble they have but if you having same trouble i got the files working with 1.5 if you need them.

[Tzakiel]

*GASP* how do you not have KI working?

A lot of the not working roms I think I just have bad file sets. Crappy torrent. I will fix but the CP is my top priority for now.

[Tzakiel]

Progress update:

I have finished cutting out the 6 pieces of MDF that will comprise my control panel, as well as the rounded corners of the CP, which I can sand to get perfect.







Everything looked good at a glance, but then I took a closer look at the corners:



So, while I have succeeded in cutting straight lines with the circular saw, I have failed, miserably, to keep my dimensions correct. I measured very carefully and re-checked before cutting, so I am not sure how this happened. Pretty much everything is off. I think I did not keep my perpendicular lines square, or something.

I have been able to fix this somewhat with my router and flush trim bit, by drawing a square line and clamping down a guide piece, so I will continue to use that to see if I can at least get things back to square and hopefully lining up better. Woodworking is hard, at least when you don't use a square and measure very carefully.

[Tzakiel]

Updated Marquee and made control panel art:

[yotsuya]

Man, now all I see is a Kirby balloon. 

[BadMouth]

I like the marquee. The strip of logos is cool.
I'm not a Kirby fan, but to each their own.
I'd replace the astro city logos with something specific to your cab.

Maybe a bit early, but a word of advice on having more than 6 buttons...
Current versions of MAME assume you have this layout:
123
456
When you map your 8 buttons globally in MAME, do them like this:
1237
4568

Do that and all the Capcom and Mortal Kombat games will be mapped correctly without you having to do them individually.
NEO GEO fighters will either need to be remapped or you can use your thumb to hit the first button in the second row for D.
I've found that this is actually more comfortable, but was making a NEO GEO themed cab so stuck to the four-in-a-row.