Tzakiel's UAII 2P Fighter CRT Build

[jongunz]

Agree with badmouth about tightening down those nuts.  You should have a little bit of room to move the buttons slightly.  It not you can always try to slightly router out the button hole so you can shift it around some.

[rCadeGaming]

+1 on Badmouth's advice on the buttons.  One other thing you can do is take a rat-tail file to the one of the holes to enlarge it just slightly for a little more wiggle room; just a little bit, so the top lip of the button will still cover it.  That is only a last resort though, try Badmouth's advice first.

As for the turning on the TV and marquee light, search about smart power strips.

Your control panel is looking very nice.  I like the white buttons on black, with the red nearby.  Also, you did a great job of minimizing the admin buttons to only what's needed.  Very clean.

As for the happ buttons, you can't get white Sanwa 24mm screw-ins anyway.  The closest you can get is a white Sanwa 24mm plunger from a snap-in in a white Seimitsu screw-in body.  That's what I did in the pic a few posts back.

[Tzakiel]

I've made two dumb mistakes, and in fixing one I discovered the other, bigger one.

First, I installed artwork and buttons but forgot to put bolts in for joysticks first, which sit under the art in countersink holes. So I had to take apart all buttons, plexi, and art.

Then once I went to put the joysticks in, I realized I had traced and routed for the s plates but there are black tabs on the sticks that protrude and prevent them from sitting in my routed area. Sh*t. Now I have to go back to the router and hopefully not break the hinge in the process.

[Tzakiel]

+1 on Badmouth's advice on the buttons.  One other thing you can do is take a rat-tail file to the one of the holes to enlarge it just slightly for a little more wiggle room; just a little bit, so the top lip of the button will still cover it.  That is only a last resort though, try Badmouth's advice first.

As for the turning on the TV and marquee light, search about smart power strips.

My button holes are really tight. Would the file work on the plexi as well as mdf?

Smart strips look really cool. I get that they can control everything based on 1 device, but still not sure how to get an external button or switch going to activate the strip.

[rCadeGaming]

Then once I went to put the joysticks in, I realized I had traced and routed for the s plates but there are black tabs on the sticks that protrude and prevent them from sitting in my routed area.

Those black tabs are completely useless when using a mounting plate.  I'd just take the stick apart and cut them off, rather than doing any more routing.  A hacksaw will probably work nicely.

As for the smart strip, you wire your power button to the PC motherboard.  Push the button, PC starts, that causes the strip to turn everything else on.

[Asmotron]

Smart strips look really cool. I get that they can control everything based on 1 device, but still not sure how to get an external button or switch going to activate the strip.

Remote power switch to the PC so when it turns on the smart strip powers up the everything else on the slave outlets.

I really want a smart strip, but I like fiddly switches too much.

[Tzakiel]

I've severely underestimated the various facets of joystick mounting.

RCadeGaming, I was very excited about your solution to just cut off the tabs but reviewing the way they are sitting even the black clips that protrude would prevent the stick from sinking in. So routing is really the only option.

Now I'm realizing that the joystick's wire harness will actually prevent me from using one of he bolts I've already drilled for:



Can I just use 3/4 holes and get away with it? Or I could drill a new hole in the cp for middle of plate where the factory hole is.

[BadMouth]

ROTATE THE PCB 90 DEGREES! 

[Tzakiel]

ROTATE THE PCB 90 DEGREES! 

The tabs don't fit in the s-plate when rotated that way. I guess that is why Sanwa manufactures the s-plate with single holes instead of double on each side... to make room for the harness since it can only be rotated 2 ways and the harness would cover a corner no matter what.  Now I guess I could hacksaw the tabs and then rotate the pcb black "thing"... and that might solve both problems?

[BadMouth]

ROTATE THE PCB 90 DEGREES! 

The tabs don't fit in the s-plate when rotated that way. I guess that is why Sanwa manufactures the s-plate with single holes instead of double on each side... to make room for the harness.  Now I guess I could hacksaw the tabs and then rotate the pcb... and that might solve both problems?

I'm not speculating here. 
Remove the restrictor plate, rotate the pcb and switch assembly 90 degrees, replace the restrictor plate.
Mine are mounted that way:
 (this is a crappy temporary cp until I have the artwork as a template for the final one.  The extra wire is power for optical switches)

[Tzakiel]

I'm not speculating here. 
Remove the restrictor plate, rotate the pcb and switch assembly 90 degrees, replace the restrictor plate.
Mine are mounted that way:
 (this is a crappy temporary cp until I have the artwork as a template for the final one.  The extra wire is power for optical switches)

Oh I see, you are saying I can rotate the PCB/harness while keeping tabs as they are? I didn't realize that was possible.  I'll still have to route or cut off the tabs/rotate/figure something out. But that solves the harness covering the screw hole.

[rCadeGaming]

My button holes are really tight. Would the file work on the plexi as well as mdf?

Yes.  You'd probably only want to apply force in direction, pushing/pulling the plexi toward the MDF.  Pushing/pulling it away could risk cracking it.  That really should be your last resort though.  Try and get what you can out of Badmouth's method first.

[Asmotron]

Attach iPAC to the cp - what is the best way to do this?

If you haven't come up with a good way to do this yet you could use coarse threaded motherboard standoffs.  I am using them in my test CP and they work great.  I just laid the iPac on the back of the CP, marked my hole positions, drilled, and hand threaded them in.  Then I attached the iPac, worked like a charm.

10 pack on Ebay
15 pack on Amazon

[Tzakiel]

Update:

After more routing, which I did need to do, and some trial and error with mounting height, I got the sticks installed and artwork and buttons back in place.



I was able to rotate the pcb and that was drop dead easy.

Next up: wiring. I am wondering.. How do I tell which color wire in the JLF harness goes with which microswitch on the stick? Just wondering which wire to put in the ipac "up" "left" etc. 

[BadMouth]

Be aware when wiring that a lot of sellers include a wiring harness meant for something something else and the colors mean nothing.  Ground is the closest wire to the outside edge of the PCB. (the one I'm looking at is red, ugh EDIT:The ones in my pic above are original Sanwa and colored correctly; black is GND)

Where the rest of the wires go depend on how you oriented the PCB.
Since I know you have it mounted sideways, I can tell you that the two wires next t ground are L or R and the last two are D or U

I usually hold the joystick in the up position, then test the wires through trial and error.  Search the software forum for " keyboard test utility" if using a keyboard encoder.  If using an interface that shows up as a gamepad, just us the controller settings thing in windows.

sent from my phone while driving

[rCadeGaming]

Lookin' good.

Just wondering which wire to put in the ipac "up" "left" etc.

Just check it with a multimeter.

[jongunz]

Glad you got everything figured out.  Looks awesome.

[Tzakiel]

I got everything wired to the ipac which is very exciting!

One button, 1p start, has a weird behavior. When it's pressed it does nothing, and then on release it fires briefly Then goes off. If you hold it down it again does nothing and then fires 1 time on release. It's wired the same way as all the others and just mapped to the 1 key.

EDIT: It was just the shift function.

[harveybirdman]

You sure that it's not on NC instead of NO?

have you tried switching out the micro switch?

[yotsuya]

If you're using an iPac, that's normal behavior.

[Tzakiel]

If you're using an iPac, that's normal behavior.

It is an ipac. That's normal? None of the other buttons work like this one though. For instance 2p start fires as long as held down and then stops on release. But they are all wired the same as I said. I tried the other prong but that did the whole always on thing.

Harvey: yeah I can try a diff switch or wire another button to 1p start on the ipac and see if it still happens.

The good thing is that firing 1 time after release kind of works fine for a start button anyway.

[Tzakiel]

I think I just realized this 1p start behavior is due to the shift function the ipac does. Yotsuya, I assume that's what you meant.

Now to turn off sticky keys... So annoying to have that enable when hitting the 1p 4 button or whatever is shift.

[yotsuya]

I think I just realized this 1p start behavior is due to the shift function the ipac does. Yotsuya, I assume that's what you meant.

Now to turn off sticky keys... So annoying to have that enable when hitting the 1p 4 button or whatever is shift.

That is correct. As you hold it down, it's "shifting". I think we've all made that mistake at one time or another. 

[Tzakiel]

Wanted to post a pic of the near final cabinet! Still need to take care of a few details and set up the front end, work out power supply/switch, etc... but looks-wise this is about it!



Anyone have a good grasp of how to configure Hyperspin to show a custom list of 200 games broken into system, then categories? I know Don's Tools can help with that a bit, but it seems a bit daunting. Also tried downloading an art pack or two and couldn't get it to show up in HS... kind of a mish-mash, that software is. I might have to spring for the premium membership if that makes it any easier to configure.

[a1pharm]

Wanted to post a pic of the near final cabinet! Still need to take care of a few details and set up the front end, work out power supply/switch, etc... but looks-wise this is about it!



Anyone have a good grasp of how to configure Hyperspin to show a custom list of 200 games broken into system, then categories? I know Don's Tools can help with that a bit, but it seems a bit daunting. Also tried downloading an art pack or two and couldn't get it to show up in HS... kind of a mish-mash, that software is. I might have to spring for the premium membership if that makes it any easier to configure.

Cab is looking great, nice work!

As for Hyperspin: you should consider getting a gold membership to hyperspin, and paying for Emumovies. Then get ready to rename your roms using the database conventions that Hyperspin needs.  You may have to do it manually, but with 200 games, thats not so bad.

[Tzakiel]

Having major problems trying to get hyperspin working even straight out of the install RAR on xp64. I'm using crt emu drivers and I have turned on magic resolutions so that hyperspin does load.

First I installed .net 3.5 and 4, windows media player 11, and made sure I had directx9.0c. Those are all installed.

Then I downloaded HS install pack, latest one, and unpacked it to c:/hyperspin

Result: it loads up, but with multiple problems...

1. There is no sound
2. When I try to select any system, it just does nothing (reloads system wheel)
3. Escape key pauses the HS interface, rather than exiting??

This is really weird. Pretty sure none of this happened before. To be sure I wiped out the HS directory, unpacked the Install pack again and ran hyperspin again without making any changes or using any of the other apps. Same results.

EDIT: looks like sound drivers may be the issue:

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?7353-Baffled-by-this-weird-anomaly-Escape-is-now-pausing-HyperSpin-instead-of-exiting

[Tzakiel]

Bad news... I rather dreaded XP64 due to drivers issues I always heard about, and sure enough it looks like the MB's onboard audio card doesn't support XP64... Gateway's site has no XP64 bit drivers, and realtek's universal XP drivers didn't take, either. It just keeps coming back as new hardware found, high definition device on audio bus... then can't install hardware. Sucks.

Worse, the driver problem is causing Hyperspin to be non-functional, as you can see in my post above (edit)

So I have two options, unless I can somehow get drivers working in 64:

1. I can do my PC upgrade now (core i5 and new MB) and choose a MB with good XP64 support. But I don't have enough WAF for this yet. I was planning to get this MB which seems to have all the xp 64 drivers: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z75%20Pro3/?cat=Download&os=XP64

2. I can go back, back, BACK to XP32! (just kill me...)

Drivers suck.

[rCadeGaming]

ASRock is a ASUS's budget brand.  I'd use an actual ASUS mobo.  Good info on running XP64 on current hardware here:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135517.0.html

[Tzakiel]

Yep, I know... But it has good reviews, xp 64 drivers and I don't plan to overclock.

[Tzakiel]

I picked up an asrock z77 extreme4 motherboard, which seems to have a full set of xp64 drivers available, and a 3570K as well as a cooler. Reviews on the board are great - looking forward to firing it up, getting the clock speed up a bit and playing Radiant Silvergun at much better speeds   I can confirm that the newer haswell chips/boards don't support windows XP... nothing available even for 32 bit on those.