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Author Topic: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy  (Read 10377 times)

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lcmgadgets

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Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« on: May 06, 2013, 01:01:08 am »
Hi everyone :).

I've been thinking/planning/acquiring parts/google sketchuping for a dream cab for a long time now (i think, in fact, since 2006). Other Byoacers have been talking of buying/building me a cab (for reasons many of u know, & if u don't & want to, ask & I'll reveal) & at first I was tempted, but I finally realized that the journey is what mattered to me, & I have to build this myself (but not without help!). This is going to b a long journey. I have very little free time (I have a 7 year old son with special needs for whom I am now not only the sole caregiver but also the teacher), few tools & no real work room, & I have one 'white elephant' of a project in mind. I want to build a Ghost in the Machine Mark II-like cab, with a RandyT lcd marquee. A friend recently offered his work room for my use, once he cleans it up, & if that falls thru, I have some other ideas (& if anyone out there has any thots as to where someone might get the use of a woodshop somewhere, please let me know. I've considered looking for a school with one, or maybe the local college...). In the meantime, I'm going to build & prep what I can.

The name of the cab is Legacy, for a number of reasons, including that my late dad donated the bulk of the money that makes the project possible at all. I have acquired the bulk of the controls (lacking a Tron/DOT stick--considering a u360/Tron handle mod for that 1, a positional gun for Operation Wolf/Terminator, a 360 degree steering wheel (I'm hoping GGG will sell me one to fit on the push/pull spinner I bought from them ages back) & maybe a periscope, if I can figure out how to build one & make it work), interfaces (should I stick with my aged plans to use a Sidewinder hack for Star Wars?), & other stuff (t molding, el-wire, monitors, coin door, etc.).

I've studied the many wonderful projects, plans, ideas, photos, videos, etc., bought both of 'Saint's books, & otherwise scoured for information to decide what I wanted, & how to do it.

& if I'm ever going to do it, I have to start. I'm going to need a lot of help. I'm not a carpenter, a programmer, or an electrician (although I have completed a couple of very ugly electronic projects). So I'm going to b asking for a lot of help.

So here I go: I have a Star Wars yoke, & after letting it sit on a shelf for over a year, I finally took it down & began to figure out what I'm going to have to do to it to use it. Long ago I decided to use Jude Kelly's sidewinder hack to interface it, & bought a couple of sidewinders off ebay, but since then other analog interfaces have been made, & if anyone can convince me to switch, I will. Anyway, I disassembled it, sent the cover & handles away for bead blasting & powder coating, looked over the rest to see what would have to b replaced, & what could b salvaged. I just missed RAM Controls closure, otherwise I might have chanced being ripped off to buy one of their rebuild kits. It looks like I'll have to get the bulk of what I think I need from ArcadeFitit.com--expensive, but I don't see an alternative. I tried to clean a lot of the parts, first by soaking them in degreaser--& here I've encountered my first problem--a black goo, that I thot was just grease, on some of the parts will not come off. It looks like the crap thats left of the bumpers (which, of course, need replacing). Anyone out there encounter this goo, & found a way to remove it?

...and so it begins...
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

Le Chuck

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2013, 01:07:02 am »
Dude, I'm in for the ride.  Sounds like you have a lot of controls and a lot of goals for this cab.  I'll let others issue words of caution.  I for one want to sit back and see drawings, pics, renders, or something of what you have in mind.  Let's get started!

Slydsho

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2013, 02:36:50 am »
im in for the ride as well, i love seeing custom builds and following the goods and the bads. subscribed, and good luck with the project  :cheers:

Brian74

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2013, 08:25:08 am »
Im right beside you, in for the long haul. I will help you as much as I can!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
         

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2013, 10:18:32 am »
I'm down.  Pictures and details of what you've tried or your thoughts will go a long long way towards the best help provided.  You can do it!

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2013, 10:34:54 am »
Gulp. Thanks everyone. I knew this day had to come, & this certainly isn't the best time, but there's never going to b a perfect time, so I might as well either get rid of all these wonderful parts gathering dust in the basement, & call myself a failure, or get to work.

I have a lot to do. If I can manage it, I'm going to try to document as much as possible, to make this road easier for others to follow (if any r interested). I know I certainly have appreciated the mountains of detail others have given, without it this project wouldn't b possible. I better get back to work with sketchup--I had made a fair amount of progress with it (drawing controllers, in particular, with way too much detail), when I changed gears & simply stole weisshaupt's beautiful sketchup of his glorious Ghost in the Machine Mark II (along with his rotating monitor plans, lighted t-moulding, etc.). I was spending my time trying to edit his sketchup to suit my needs, when...life went to hell. Now its time to get back to work.

I've also got to clean & organize what little work room I have here (the furnace room, which is about 10' X 10', but good enough for small work).

So, back to the immediate point: Anyone have any idea how to get this black goo off my yoke (that almost sounds like something...)? I've tried degreaser & goo gone. Both have had very limited affect on it. Some of the parts in question r plastic (the 'spacer bearing', in particular), so I don't want to try wire wheeling it off.

Also, I'm wondering what parts on it I really must replace. The gears look great, the steering shafts have a little wear on them but still look pretty good. The large springs (the torsion & handle springs--I'm looking at the parts list from the manual) LOOK good, but I don't know if I should trust appearances. The retainers on the thumb buttons have a little tiny bit of corrosion, but still, I think, look pretty good. I won't gamble on the pots or microswitches, I simply replace them & b sure. Should the old wiring go, if it doesn't have holes or wear on it? The trigger buttons are fine. I'm replacing the thumb & trigger springs. Of course the bumpers r shot. I've got to get new screws for the outside cover, but the rest look okay (some have a little corrosion, but I think they're fine). Are those brassy ring/cap things what the manual calls 'bearings'? Hard to tell, but they look pretty good, a little scratched around the edges maybe (probably all from my efforts to remove them)...

Any ideas/thots/opinions? ???
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2013, 10:37:49 am »
Are you planning to use swappable panels, or are you going to have all those controls mounted at once?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2013, 11:56:33 am »
Woot lets do this!!!

Yep those brass rings are the barings, as long as the shafts aren't knocking around or grinding in them you'll be ok. As for the black goop I'm not too sure, but if you're trying to get it off metal try paint stripper, just do it in a ventilated area.
I just finished rebuilding a Paperboy yolk which uses a lot of the same parts. Sounds like you already managed to pull the gears apart so you've survived removing the long brass shaft retaining bolts without snapping them. Remember when you put those back just hand tighten them, they can damage really easy.
You can get the Pots from a bunch of different places, they are 5k, the thing you just need to look out for is matching the shaft length.

Good luck on the rest of the build, just remember if you're using MDF, work with it outside AND wear a good dust mask, that stuff is great to work with but hell on your sinuses and lungs.

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2013, 12:08:53 pm »
Are you planning to use swappable panels, or are you going to have all those controls mounted at once?

Swappable modules. Like Ghost in the Machine's....I imagine I'm gonna need something pretty robust to support that yoke...

Yep those brass rings are the barings, as long as the shafts aren't knocking around or grinding in them you'll be ok. As for the black goop I'm not too sure, but if you're trying to get it off metal try paint stripper, just do it in a ventilated area.
I just finished rebuilding a Paperboy yolk which uses a lot of the same parts. Sounds like you already managed to pull the gears apart so you've survived removing the long brass shaft retaining bolts without snapping them. Remember when you put those back just hand tighten them, they can damage really easy.
You can get the Pots from a bunch of different places, they are 5k, the thing you just need to look out for is matching the shaft length.

Good luck on the rest of the build, just remember if you're using MDF, work with it outside AND wear a good dust mask, that stuff is great to work with but hell on your sinuses and lungs.

Thanks! I was a little concerned about those retaining bolts; they took a little more force than I expected to come out--almost seemed seized. Got lucky I guess. I'll post a pic of my 'work table' (snicker) later with the parts scattered across it, then I'm gonna start cleaning/organizing it, like I should have before I started.

 Yeah, I figured I'd try paint stripper next. & I have a tin of acetone--but might that not hurt the plastic (it always seems to damage Plastic Man, but isn't he more like rubber?)?

& I'm either using plywood or mdo (the guy who says he lend me his workshop has a process for covering the ply that looks great, & that he says is almost indestructible--it's used for bar tops).

Okay, gotta go educate my kid. Later
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2013, 12:10:56 pm »
Yeah, I figured I'd try paint stripper next. & I have a tin of acetone--but might that not hurt the plastic (it always seems to damage Plastic Man, but isn't he more like rubber?)?

If it's on plastic don't try the paint stripper on that, it'll probably assplode into a mushroom cloud

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2013, 12:12:24 am »
Uhh, I suspect I just did something dumb (1 of many, & many more to come). I wrote a fairly long message about what I've done today, attached some pics, & tried to post &...lost it all. I've never tried to attach pics before--what'd I do wrong?

Will post again tomorrow with details about todays (meager) accomplishments.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

Le Chuck

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2013, 06:25:24 pm »
Uhh, I suspect I just did something dumb (1 of many, & many more to come). I wrote a fairly long message about what I've done today, attached some pics, & tried to post &...lost it all. I've never tried to attach pics before--what'd I do wrong?

Will post again tomorrow with details about todays (meager) accomplishments.

I always post then edit to add pics so I don't drop the post if something goes wrong with the upload, that or copy the message to my clipboard before posting.  It happens to everybody occasionally. 

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2013, 11:56:54 pm »
Thanks. I'll do that from now on. My laptop is pretty buggy (I need to reformat the drive & start from scratch...if I can only find my Windows 7 CD...), so I wouldn't b surprised if the problem occured at my end.

I'll try again.

I wanted to post my (meager) achievements since last time.

The Act-Labs RS Steering Wheel & 3 pedal set that I've been looking for forever arrived today. I've been looking for a long time, but was determined not to buy them from Act-Labs directly if I could find them used. Got a set that the seller claims were never used. Got an RS Shifter with them, unfortunately, as now I have 2 shifters. So for anyone who wants one, expect to c it on the buy/sell/trade soon, unless...hmmm. I may have just thot of another use for it.

I bought a Logitech Attack 3 joystick off ebay & it arrived today too, I plan to mod it to play 720 degrees, as I've discovered others have done here.

I'm working on an order of parts from ArcadeFixIt.com, who seem to be the only vendor left with everything I think I need to refurbish my Star Wars yoke (boy, I sure wish I'd gotten that rebuild kit from RAM...). Here's a loaded question: Do I have to replace the large springs (the torsion & handle springs)? They look fine, but I can't tell if they've lost any...springiness(?). Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding an old yoke & comparing old vs new springs?

& I'm working on cleaning up/organizing my 'work room'. Yes, I should have done this before I started on the yoke, but I couldn't make myself wait. My work room is small, & I've got the keep the fumes in there way down, but it'll do for electronics/computer prep/other small work.

Oh--& with electronics/soldering in mind, I (yes, ME) have a tip for other solder-ers out there that, correct me if I'm wrong, a lot don't know about. A few years ago I completed my 1st electronics project--a kvasar dream mask (google it, & b warned, its different. & I promptly sold it on ebay for $41). A problem that plagued me thru this project was keeping my soldering tips clean, despite my best efforts (yes, I used a sponge to clean between solder-ings, I used flux to prep the parts & otherwise tried to keep everything very clean). I finally spent a couple days doing research, & then bought a block of sal ammoniac off ebay. Amazing stuff. Simply work the hot soldering tip into the block & add some tin at the same time, & u get a perfectly clean, perfectly tinned tip, cleaner than the 1st time u used it. But wear a filtered mask--the fumes generated from this stuff r toxic.

Also, thanks for the tip concerning cleaning that spacer--I stayed away from paint stripper & tried the acetone--that got all the goo off except for a faint stain that was left behind. The parts look good.

Okay, now I'm going to try to post this, then edit it as Le Chuck suggests & add the photos. Wish me luck...

...Hmmm...I think I discovered the 1st problem: All my pics r over the minimum size. I'll have to try taking them again & playing with the res or something to get them down. Not that readers r missing much; they were of my 'work room', & of the yoke. I'll try to figure it out tomorrow. Everyday, however small, I'm going to try to accomplish something.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2013, 12:39:41 am by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2013, 12:22:48 am »
Also keep in mind the directions for attachments:

Quote
Allowed file types: txt, jpg, gif, pdf, png, zip, rar, jpeg, skp, svg, ai, gif
Restrictions: 8 per post, maximum total size 5120KB, maximum individual size 2048KB

You may need to resize photos or adjust the resolution to make them fit.

If you try to link a file extension that isn't allowed, it will flush the whole thing when you click on "post" IIRC.


Scott

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2013, 12:48:33 am »
Also keep in mind the directions for attachments:

Quote
Allowed file types: txt, jpg, gif, pdf, png, zip, rar, jpeg, skp, svg, ai, gif
Restrictions: 8 per post, maximum total size 5120KB, maximum individual size 2048KB

You may need to resize photos or adjust the resolution to make them fit.

If you try to link a file extension that isn't allowed, it will flush the whole thing when you click on "post" IIRC.


Scott

U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #15 on: May 08, 2013, 01:53:09 am »
U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.

No need to adjust your camera, the easiest re-sizing you can do is just using Paint in Windows, open the jpeg in Paint, select Resize, select By: Pixels and then just type in the Horizontal value, the Vertical value will automatically adjust if you keep the Maintain aspect ratio checkbox ticked.  Save the resized image and you're away!  Set an image size of 640 x 480 for an easy to manage file size.   I'm betting your camera's lowest res would still be above 800 x 600.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #16 on: May 08, 2013, 03:39:53 am »
U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.

No need to adjust your camera, the easiest re-sizing you can do is just using Paint in Windows, open the jpeg in Paint, select Resize, select By: Pixels and then just type in the Horizontal value, the Vertical value will automatically adjust if you keep the Maintain aspect ratio checkbox ticked.  Save the resized image and you're away!  Set an image size of 640 x 480 for an easy to manage file size.   I'm betting your camera's lowest res would still be above 800 x 600.

I agree about not adjusting the camera resolution too low.

With higher resolution, it's sometimes easier to crop for a detail shot like below than getting the macro focus to work right.  :banghead:     :angry: depth of field.

I usually use Windows Paint to crop and resize pics -- can't find a "resize" option in mine. (v 5.1 from XP SP3 install)   :dunno

The fastest way I've found to crop (1-4) and resize (5) in Windows Paint is to:

1. Use Ctrl-A to select all, drag-and-drop photo so the upper left corner is in place.

2. Click outside the selected area or change tools and change back to "select" to bring up the select crosshairs.

3. Use the crosshairs to determine desired size using X,Y coordinates displayed in the lower right.

4. Use Ctrl-E (Attributes) to set the horizontal and vertical size in pixels.

5. Use Ctrl-W (Stretch and Skew) to shrink it as needed.

NOTE: If an area of the image is selected during step 5, that portion will be resized but the overall image size will not change


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #17 on: May 08, 2013, 10:27:33 am »
Got some time in on swap panels here- let me know if you need any input on those.   8)

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2013, 01:42:27 pm »
Got some time in on swap panels here- let me know if you need any input on those.   8)

Oh, u can bet I'll b asking! I just don't know what to ask yet. But do u mean swappable panels, or a modular panel, like I'm intending (aka Doc's modular mame, or weisshaupt's Ghost in the Machine)?

& thanks for the suggestions concerning dealing with pics. Even as I'd made that comment about messing with the camara, I figured it'd b a heckuva lot easier to use a photo editor. Duh!
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #19 on: May 10, 2013, 12:01:08 am »
Okay, more meager accomplishments: Placed another order to GGG, after waiting for some info from RandyT. Once it arrives, I'll have all but 3 of the controls I want, the last being 2 positional rifles (Operation Wolf, Terminator), & a periscope.

...I've never seen a periscope made or modded for a project. Could this b the unique element of my cab?

...It's going just about as slowly as I figured it would. Don't hold your breath, guys.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2013, 01:39:09 am »
It might be easier to make a separate cab for periscope games.   :dunno

Factors to consider:
Lateral forces and how to support the top/bottom (welded frame?)
Pivot points (8", 10" or 12" lazy suzan bearings?)
X-Axis movement only or X- and Y-Axis movement?
Will the periscope be removable?
Height adjustable scope or a step like Battlezone, Sea Wolf, Subroc-3D, etc.?



Be sure to include a pair of trigger sticks for Battlezone.   :w00t


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #21 on: May 10, 2013, 01:41:16 pm »
It might be easier to make a separate cab for periscope games.   :dunno

Factors to consider:
Lateral forces and how to support the top/bottom (welded frame?)
Pivot points (8", 10" or 12" lazy suzan bearings?)
X-Axis movement only or X- and Y-Axis movement?
Will the periscope be removable?
Height adjustable scope or a step like Battlezone, Sea Wolf, Subroc-3D, etc.?

Be sure to include a pair of trigger sticks for Battlezone.   :w00t

All your points r well taken. I doubt I'm going to have room/money for another cab. Certainly H' & I have the room right now, but 1 of the ideas I'm seriously considering to keep us afloat is to rent out the basement--then we're gonna b hurting for space. This is kinduv a 1 shot deal, which is why I'm shooting so high. The periscope was an old thot that managed to get past my inner censor & into the post before I could catch it. I really haven't done enuf work on the idea. I had imagined something removable (modular). ...I suppose a welded frame would probably b the way to go...something that would be attached via some kinduv quick release...I'd originally 1/4 conceived a hood-like affair that would hang over the top of the cab, but the lcd marquee I want will b in the way...& on top of making sure its secure & functional, I still want to make it & the cab look good...well, back to the drawing board. :dunno

Battlezone--I loved that game & it just isn't the same without your face pressed into that scope, watching that ghostly green field & the sweep of the radar...damn, I've gotta make it happen somehow. & those trigger sticks--what'd u end up using? I'm considering a top-fire mod for my u360's combined with a modded grip (I'm also considering a mod to screw a Tron handle onto a u360).

But more immediately, I gotta figure out what went wrong with my GGG order. My credit card was denied, for reasons I can't imagine. Later...
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #22 on: May 10, 2013, 01:45:16 pm »
Subscribed.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #23 on: May 10, 2013, 11:26:46 pm »
Got some more cleaning/organizing done of the workroom done. Should have been done years ago.  :banghead: I'm getting a big small stuff organizer soon--something to sort all these damn screws, nails, bolts, nuts, washers, etc., etc., etc., & a board & hooks to organize all these tools--this's nuts.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #24 on: May 10, 2013, 11:37:37 pm »
I can't find Nephs quote of another great poster here but it goes along these lines...

”Cleaning up your workspace does not constitute an update”

Now welcome to the club you're officially a cab builder having received this verbal spanking.

Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #25 on: May 11, 2013, 12:45:38 am »
I suppose a welded frame would probably b the way to go...something that would be attached via some kinduv quick release...I'd originally 1/4 conceived a hood-like affair that would hang over the top of the cab, but the lcd marquee I want will b in the way...& on top of making sure its secure & functional, I still want to make it & the cab look good...well, back to the drawing board. :dunno
I figured that you were talking about removable panels, so design a removable panel with a superstructure that's a few inches shorter than the marquee.

This thread on electric panel latches might give you some good ideas.

An H-shaped frame on the right and left with a rectangle on the top that has the upper lazy susan bearing bolted/welded to it.

The lower bearing can rest on the CP.

Leave enough distance from the periscope to the monitor so you can see properly.

You can probably add a 1/4" clear polycarb/acrylic sheet as a cross-brace on the back for stability.

Handle on the top near the front to lift the panel out + skids on the underside of the panel to avoid damaging the underside + a 6' USB cable to connect the encoders on the panel to the system.

1/8" hardboard skin is lightweight and will allow artwork with submarine/tank controls/indicators to cover the superstructure and make it all purdy-like.

those trigger sticks--what'd u end up using?



You can get them at Paradise (Import Flight Stick) or Ultimarc (MiniGrip).

The LS-32 switch mod is a nice little addition -- you may need to tune the lever arms a bit for proper response, but the clickiness is greatly reduced.

Seimitsu LS-32 and Zippyy Joystick upgrade kit


Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.

Naw. . . he's in the design phase, so it's sketch time.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2013, 11:04:47 pm »
I can't find Nephs quote of another great poster here but it goes along these lines...

”Cleaning up your workspace does not constitute an update”

Now welcome to the club you're officially a cab builder having received this verbal spanking.

Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.
:lol Yeah, I thot so too. I wanted to post SOMETHING, so that it would keep me moving. But yeah, I'm wasting time & space by posting that crap. Next post will b of things screwed together, or google sketchups.

By the way, I DID do some pretty good (read: overly thorough) sketchups of several of the controls I've bought. All in the warehouse, under the name 'lcmgadgets' for anyone interested.

& again, thanks for the ideas. I'll b checking them out. Keep 'em comin'.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #27 on: May 12, 2013, 11:22:21 pm »
Does anyone know if the periscopes in those dedicated cabs (sea wolf, battle shark, sea wolf II, sub hunter, etc,) were simple positional (2 or 4 way) or analog controllers? I seem to recall that the battle shark yoke turned in 4 directions like the Star Wars yoke, but that the cross hair moved across the screen at the same speed no matter how far or hard u cranked those controls.

I'm looking carefully at that periscope on Battle Shark. That doesn't look too hard to replicate. Maybe some big pvc pipe....
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #28 on: May 13, 2013, 12:28:33 am »
Verified via the Input settings menu on MAME:

Battle Shark - 2-axis, analog (Yes, it does limit the speed your crosshairs can move)
Depthcharge / Sub Hunter - No periscope, 1-axis, not analog
Destroyer (Atari 1977) - Y-axis analog, 2 buttons (depth charge, speed)
Sea Wolf - 1-axis, analog
Sea Wolf II - 2 single-axis analog periscopes
Subroc-3D - 2-axis, not analog
Turbo Sub - 2-axis, analog (Used a SW yoke)

Other submarine-type games to consider: (copied from one of the .dat files)
Invinco / Deep Scan
Minesweeper
Subs
Wolf Pack
Fire One
HeliFire
N-Sub
Navarone
Polaris
Tomahawk 777
Battle of Atlantis
Mariner
Battle Cruiser M-12
Submarine
Up Scope
The Deep
Sauro
Guts n' Glory (Depth Charge + Submarine)
In The Hunt


Scott
« Last Edit: May 13, 2013, 12:30:20 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #29 on: May 13, 2013, 10:18:44 pm »
Thanks, Scott! 1 of these days, I'm really gonna study MAME & figure it out. I use it, but I really learned only enuf to get it to run the games, capture some video, & that was it.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #30 on: May 13, 2013, 11:10:02 pm »
Just snag a GUI version of MAME like MAMEUIFX, progetto snaps art files, and history.dat+mameinfo.dat.

The GUI makes it easy to search for games, see parent/clone groups, read the history.dat info and view pics.

Protip: On View - Show Pictures, deselect History and on the Interface Option menu, Show History on Tab = Snapshot.  This puts the snapshot and history together on one tab.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #31 on: August 26, 2013, 10:05:54 am »
Sigh.

It's been more than 3 months, & my hint of work space still isn't ready yet. Sorry I've wasted your time, guys. I know I'll get back to this eventually, but a snail's pace would b rocketing for me. & I've got some other priorities I've got to take care of first, like getting my basement overhauled & converted into an apartment, & rented out, before we run out of money. & there will always b all the issues involving my son--the one staring me in the face right now is if he can make it in public school this time, or if I'm going to have to continue/ramp up the homeschooling.

So don't expect much here. I'll never come anywhere near matching the pace of those of u who have actually managed to complete anything. & yeah, I could ramp my plans down; shoot for something a bit easier to accomplish, but I know I'll feel like I copped out if I shoot for anything less than the big pretty cab with the rotating monitor, LCD marquee, modular control panels, & lit up t-molding.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #32 on: August 26, 2013, 11:30:33 am »
I know I'll feel like I copped out if I shoot for anything less than the big pretty cab with the rotating monitor, LCD marquee, modular control panels, & lit up t-molding.

Ask yourself this- do you need all that to play the games you like? If you don't, it's all extra. You don't need to feel let down if you decide those things aren't necessary.  :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #33 on: August 26, 2013, 11:34:47 am »
Ask yourself this- do you need all that to play the games you like? If you don't, it's all extra. You don't need to feel let down if you decide those things aren't necessary.  :cheers:

^^^^ This. Do you want to enjoy some arcade games with classic controls or do you want to build a huge show piece? Both are valid endeavors, but don't get them mixed up if you don't need to.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #34 on: August 26, 2013, 12:23:56 pm »
Griff brings up good points. Decide what you want it to be and commit. There's a lot a great showcase builds here, but there are also a ton of outstanding simple classic builds that would be at home in any arcade or showplace (Echo Base always comes to mind is and probably my favorite scratch build of all time). Make what you want, not what you think will impress others- it's not an arms race.  ;D
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #35 on: October 01, 2013, 12:24:55 pm »
Okay, I'm back. Sorry about the whine earlier. Work room ready, & I've started modding the Star Wars yoke & dual strike pcb. Had a heckuva time getting the wires de soldered off the dual strike--may want to drill out the remaining crap in at least 1 hole for a clean insert of the new wire. Got the wire I need (I have a lot of 18awg but needed finer for this). Didn't realize it wasn't copper stranded until I started, but it soldered nice to the pot & I'm going to go ahead & use it unless someone thinks that's a big mistake.

Do you want to enjoy some arcade games with classic controls or do you want to build a huge show piece? Both are valid endeavors, but don't get them mixed up if you don't need to.

Both, but with a more serious lean toward playability, customizable controls, & the ability to play a lot of games. Thanks for this, guys. I'm recommitted. & a reminder/warning--this is gonna b 1 long, glacially slow build. Not a 1st for me--I once spent 2 years completing a 'kvasar lucid dream induction mask'--a project that most of you could complete in a week.

I'll post some pics of my 1st moves later--gotta go pick up my son.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #36 on: October 01, 2013, 10:22:41 pm »
Omg, I've got some actual progress to report.

Using 1UP's wonderful write up on the dual strike hack, I disassembled--okay, okay, I actually disassembled it years ago (literally)--1 of my 2 dual strikes, desoldered the pot connections to it (using braid & wiggling, &, as 1UP points out, its still a tough job), and soldered wire to the 2 new pots I received from...I think it was arcadefixit. For a change, the soldering went well & quickly. No burnt fingers or damaged parts (I think--I'm going to test the pots again before I install them), the solder melted & flowed smoothly, my joints look good, & I only got a little flux on my hands. As I've said many times, I hate soldering. I do everything right--I clean my parts, tin the wire, use flux everywhere, & clean my soldering tip (with sal ammoniac, even), & yet its always a struggle for me. Partly, I think, because I use lead-free solder.

I like heat shrink tubing, too. I have 2 diameters on the pots--a narrow one for the wire, & a wider one overlapping the wire & covering the contacts on the pots themselves.

I've soldered the pots to the opposite ends of the same coils of wire (they're 10' long each, I think. Or is it 5'?). This is another thing I've always struggled with--where do u cut the wire? I've ended up with unwanted loops in the past, or butt connectors or soldered in xtra lengths of wire to make up for using too much/not enuf. I suppose I could solve a lot of that by using terminal blocks between the dual strike pcb & the pots...but does anyone have any ideas?

(Oh, & yes, thats a print out of 1UP's hack in the top pic, & an ipad with another image from the same wonderful site in the other. I've learned to constantly double check against what you're stealing/working from)
« Last Edit: October 01, 2013, 10:28:45 pm by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #37 on: October 02, 2013, 09:45:57 am »
I like the colorful heat shrink.  I always just use black but I need to see if I can pick up some colors. 

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #38 on: October 02, 2013, 12:17:42 pm »
Somehow I thought it necessary to use the same colour heat shrink as the wire  :dunno. Now I like clear, partly because someone here described a cheap but purdy wire labelling method using clear--I've forgotten how, but I think if I look thru my past posts...
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #39 on: October 02, 2013, 12:50:13 pm »
It was here in DaOld Man's A Little Rage thread.

He used a shrink wrap printer, I suggested a paper label secured with scotch tape.

Print the label on paper, trim to size and affix using scotch tape.

Leave enough of a header to get a solid grip (>1 wrap) on the wire then wrap tightly for 1 or 2 layers more and trim with scissors so the tail ends up opposite of the printing and neat.

When printing and trimming, ensure that the paper won't wrap around so far that it covers the text.

You can also do this flag-style, but that way is more likely to snag.

Pic shows 14 point Times New Roman text and 22 gauge wire.




Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #40 on: October 02, 2013, 02:32:35 pm »
Thank you! Wouldn't u know I had just found & was rereading that post. I think I might try a paper label under a piece of clear heat shrink tubing. I'm going on a lot about this, but I know I've struggled with the 'this 1 goes here, that 1 goes there!' issue in the past, & my solutions then (masking tape flag torn from the roll with the label scribbled on with a sharpie) were ugly.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #41 on: October 03, 2013, 10:59:08 pm »
Well, I've had my first mishap, unless someone has some idea how to fix this. Don't know if it'll show in the pics, but, as warned by 1UP, getting the pot off the dual strike board is tough & tricky. After I desoldered as best I could, & wiggled & pulled & cursed the thing off, the stubs of 2 of the contacts were left on the board. I tried to desolder these--no luck. Finally I took my teeniest drill (I think thats its official diameter--I forget what it is, but yes, its as small as the holes) & drilled them out. I was worried the extensive desoldering had lifted the centermost (white wire) trace off the board, & after I drilled it I was even more sure. & then I discovered I couldn't get the new wire to solder to it. I'm pretty sure I've pooched it--unless, like I say, someone has an idea. Time to break out my 2nd dual strike board (& go looking for another 1) & try not to wreck it.

"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #42 on: October 03, 2013, 11:18:52 pm »
If the 2nd hack doesn't work, you might want to try an Atmel ATMega32U4 board like the one in my Analog KADESTICK.

I've been trying to test a second 32U4 board with a SW yoke, but have had some problems loading the hex for some reason. :angry:  :banghead:


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #43 on: October 04, 2013, 09:18:15 am »
Thanks Scott. Yeah, when I started collecting parts for this project way back when, analog boards either didn't exist yet, or were still so rare & new that the dual strike hack was still the only way to go, otherwise...

Uhhh, what does 'loading the hex mean'?  ???
« Last Edit: October 04, 2013, 09:20:16 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #44 on: October 04, 2013, 12:09:12 pm »
what does 'loading the hex mean'?  ???
The firmware that defines and controls the various board functions uses hexadecimal encoding.

The source code is compiled into a firmware update file using the extension .HEX.

The .HEX file is then used to program the firmware on the board. (a.k.a. "Loading the hex.")

KADE Loader does this behind the scenes, but the 32U4 board and Analog Firmware aren't included (. . . yet ;D) so for now, you have to use the FLIP program to load the hex.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #45 on: October 04, 2013, 12:45:54 pm »
I figured it was about programming. I actually slapped together (literally--during the 15 minutes that I used it (once ever) & then disassembled it I had to avoid breathing on it too hard to avoid shorting exposed wires) a pic programmer (for the...16f84? Does that sound right?) once for my many times mentioned kvasar dream mask project. I know next to nothing about writing programs (got the kvasar's program online) & I'd have to start from scratch if I had to build another programmer. Found an easier way anyway--a local guy with a programmer that load the chips for a cup of coffee (I have to provide the program).
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #46 on: October 04, 2013, 01:39:07 pm »
I considered buying a hardware PIC programmer, but the AVR boards with USB headers can be programmed via free software like FLIP -- free software wins.  ;D


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #47 on: October 05, 2013, 09:00:58 pm »
Free? That's my critical sell point, too.  ;D
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #48 on: October 09, 2013, 12:37:10 pm »
Okay, moving right along in the slowest build on the forum, I have progress to report! After ruining the 1st dual strike board, I did what I should have the first time; I went looking for information on how to desolder parts from a pcb properly. Of course, I found tons of information. & if anyone out there would like to hear in greater detail what I learned, I'd b glad to post it at request, but otherwise I'm going to assume that everyone else on this forum knows more about soldering/desoldering than I do, and don't need it repeated it here.

Anyway, after an hour and a half of careful, painstaking application of what I learned, I successfully desoldered the pot off the dual's board, & soldered new wires to it. Here are a couple of pics. Please forgive my soldering, I thoroughly checked the joints & they are good (I used the 'twist & tug' test, and followed up with a rigorous finger wagging combined with an application of warnings concerning what fate might befall the joints should they decide to fail later, thoroughly peppered with all the appropriate colourful expletives) despite the massive amount of solder I used on 2 of them, & the much smaller amount on the 3rd 1. Have I mentioned how much I hate soldering?
« Last Edit: October 11, 2013, 01:42:09 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #49 on: October 12, 2013, 11:20:38 am »
Soldered wires to 1 of the new microswitches for the yoke last night. Yay. Will post a pic later.

...man, this's gonna take a lonnnggg time. Maybe once I get the basement reno completed, & assuming H' continues to do okay at school, I'll have a little more time to commit to this.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #50 on: October 15, 2013, 08:14:29 pm »
Completed soldering of all 4 microswitches. Yes, thats a bare patch on that 1 black wire, covered with heat shrink tubing. I had to cut a wire already soldered because I'd made it way too long, & solder the cut to the wire already soldered to the other switch. Sigh. I'd think given how slowly I have to move on this project, that I'd at least avoid these obvious dumb mistakes.

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Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #51 on: October 16, 2013, 12:44:37 pm »
There's no dumb mistakes.  Just development opportunities.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #52 on: October 16, 2013, 02:10:19 pm »
There's no dumb mistakes.  Just development opportunities.

AJ

I need to print this for my barn.  Had one of those days yesterday.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #53 on: October 17, 2013, 10:45:53 am »
Yes, YES! It's similar to something I've said to new roller skaters who've compared their ability disparagingly to mine (& the weird thing is, I'm completely serious--they can b clumsy as hell, but if they look like they're having the time of their lives, I enjoy watching them skate); they're not poor skaters, they've got 'infinite potential'.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #54 on: October 21, 2013, 11:09:31 pm »
Started on soldering the other wires that connect to the dual strike's board. Got 2 done, & heat shrinked. Yay for me. :blank:
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #55 on: October 24, 2013, 10:39:06 pm »
Banner night for me. Got a whole hour after I put H' to bed to work. Got the remaining wires (4) soldered/head shrinked to the dual strike. Everything went smooth.

I think I'll temporarily wire the pots to the circuit, plug it into the computer & test to make sure it survived the mod. & its time to work out my wire labelling system.

...maybe soldering isn't so bad.

« Last Edit: October 24, 2013, 10:42:23 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #56 on: October 27, 2013, 11:49:54 pm »
Temporarily attached the pots & microswitches to the 'strike's board, & plugged it into my windows 7 machine just to see what'd happen. The computer saw the dual strike, & the 4 micro's registered as hat switches, but I couldn't get anything out of the pots. I think I'll hook the multimeter up to the pots tomorrow & test them (should have done this at the start...hmmm, I probably did, & have simply forgotten--that's my story & I'm sticking to it). I imagine the pots issue is simply a windows 7 thing--anybody know anything about this?
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« Reply #57 on: October 29, 2013, 11:26:19 pm »
Dual strike board pretty much ready to go. I labeled the wires, wishing I'd done the pots before I'd soldered them--I found I couldn't get my heat shrink to slip over 3 wires at once to do the pots, so I used a little hot glue to adfix the labels. Also cut the extra unneeded wires off the board & hot glued the ends. Hot glue is definitely my friend.

Crap. Forgot to multimeter the pots, just to be sure they're okay. Will do next, & assuming they're okay, I'll start reassembling the yoke.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2013, 11:29:51 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #58 on: November 01, 2013, 11:28:26 pm »
Checked the pots, tested the microswitches, & reassembled the handles of the yoke with the new switches in place. Was gonna take a pic of the handle lying open with the switches, springs, trigger & thumb buttons in place, but after 2 desperate searches for runaway springs, I decided to just get the damn covers on & then take a pic.

Which raises a question I've never asked: How to prevent runaway springs. I think I heard someone once say work with a cover over u & the work, & I've tried working in a box. My tenant, who is a mechanic & also accustomed to runaway parts, says what he does, when appropriate, is to put a little vaseline on a potential runaway. If it drops or springs away, it tends to stick wherever it lands. Anyway, heres the pic:
« Last Edit: November 01, 2013, 11:32:50 pm by lcmgadgets »
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« Reply #59 on: November 01, 2013, 11:34:47 pm »
& for everyone's entertainment, heres a pic of amateur roller derby blocker Pia Mess, number 247 of the Derby Divas, who was seen training the night of Oct. 31st at my favourite rink:
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« Reply #60 on: November 01, 2013, 11:37:27 pm »
Does anyone have a good technique, or know of a tool, that can remove/insert this type of clip? The yoke has 3 of them, & 1 is dangerously close to 1 of the 60 tooth wheels.

« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 05:27:07 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #61 on: November 04, 2013, 11:57:32 pm »
Does anyone have a good technique, or know of a tool, that can remove/insert this type of clip? The yoke has 3 of them, & 1 is dangerously close to 1 of the 60 tooth wheels.
Since we're still waiting for Saint to fix the BYOAC wiki logins (14+ months, but who's counting  ;D), Spoot set up a functioning wiki and I loaded the text and pics from the SW yoke rebuild page here.

Feel free to add any text or pics that you might want to contribute.

Insert a large common screwdriver between the belly of the c-clip and the shaft -- twist the screwdriver to push the clip away from the shaft and be sure the "downrange" area is prepped in case the clip launches.

A pair of needlenose pliers can hold the clip straight whole you reinstall it.



In order to reach the clip between the 60 tooth and the front frame next to the right handle, you'll need to:
- Desolder/remove the wires that run to the handle switches (one of your earlier posts looks like you've already got that covered with the wires and handles removed)
- Remove the crossbar that holds the vertical centering springs
- Remove the clip by the left handle
- Remove the right handle from the shaft (looks like you've already done that)
- Slide the shaft to the left
- Use a screwdriver to remove the clip

Between this and the rebuild entry link above, you should be on your way to getting your yoke back up and running again.   :cheers:


Scott
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 02:16:28 am by PL1 »

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« Reply #62 on: November 05, 2013, 01:07:14 am »
Thanks PL1. I downloaded that disassembly procedure from the wiki some weeks ago--its very thorough.

I managed to get the rings out & back in again--twice since I last posted, & without the use of pliers or a screwdriver. As u suspected, I've already completely disassembled this thing, replaced the microswitches & reassembled the handles (a terrifying experience involving searching for launched tiny springs--twice). Then I thought to look at the maintenance technician's manual for the yoke (I think I downloaded it from the KLOV site) & noticed the thoughtfully included very thorough assembly/disassembly instructions (they even detail what size of wrenchs to use) & started following them (sigh).

First problem I encountered was that the shaft didn't want to slide back through the bearings. I forced it with a rubber mallet, got the springs & large gear on, & pushed those troublesome clips back on with a handy wooden tool designed specifically for that job...not! (seen below in the pic...yes, its the end of a wooden paint brush). I then realized that that shaft had to rotate fairly freely, & it certainly wasn't. I then remembered the tool I'd used the 1st time I'd removed those clips--a hook tool, shown in the pic below, with a cloth over the assembly to prevent launching. Prying against the shaft, they came out easily (yay!). I tapped the shaft back out, then went at the inside of the bearings with some emery cloth until the shaft rotated smoothly in them. Then I cleaned the whole thing up thoroughly, oiled the bearings as per instructions in the manual, slid the shaft back in, replacing the gear & springs along the way, & remounted the clips. Yay! Next step--replace the screw mounting the gear to the shaft. But where the hell was the threaded hole in the shaft?! Finally I found it--on the end opposite where the gear was. The manual does NOT warn u to make sure that hole is on the same side as the gear. Get the hook back out, pull the clips off again, slide the shaft back out, reverse it, slide it back in, remount gear, springs, & clips--all without incident. Screwed down the big gear. Whew!

Then on to the 1st potentiometer. That went fairly smoothly. I noticed right away when I'd tightened the nut that held it to the bracket that the lock nut had fallen off during installation. So I took it back off & put the washer where it belonged. & there was a tense moment when I thought my hex wrench wasn't going to reach the screw used to mount the 14 tooth gear to the pot shaft. But it went on in the end. 12:30--got to b up at 7:30--time for bed.

So heres a pic of the assembly at this point, with my 2 handy clip removing/remounting tools. Something with a flatter end than that paint brush would have been better, but the fact that it was wood & thin enough to slide easily between the big gear and the bearing gave me some confidence that if something did go wrong, I had an improved chance of not damaging that precious gear.

« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 01:16:34 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #63 on: November 05, 2013, 02:07:04 am »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

Reoriented (and trimmed?), it would work perfectly at the end of step 20.


Scott
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 02:44:40 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #64 on: November 05, 2013, 08:26:31 am »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

Reoriented (and trimmed?), it would work perfectly at the end of step 20.


Scott

I'm a little flattered! Of course I will contribute in any way I can; please use that pic & any other as u c fit. Want me to post another 1, sans tools?

How noobish should the wiki b? Should u include the suggestion to emery-out stubborn bearings before installing the shaft for 'tards like me?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #65 on: November 05, 2013, 03:56:41 pm »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

I'm a little flattered! Of course I will contribute in any way I can; please use that pic & any other as u c fit. Want me to post another 1, sans tools?
Uploaded pic and updated text to mention the hook tool in the pic.

Are the pic and revised text OK?

How noobish should the wiki b? Should u include the suggestion to emery-out stubborn bearings before installing the shaft for 'tards like me?
Feel free to add suggestions, tips, or photos you think will help the next guy.   ;D


Scott

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« Reply #66 on: November 06, 2013, 12:35:26 am »
Yeah, the pic looks good, & the text is as correct as can b. Cool!

I've noticed a couple of other differences between the manual & my yoke--small things like a bolt that required a different size of hex wrench than the manual mentioned, &, more worrisomely, the collar that the shaft from the steering assembly slides thru to mount it to the handle assembly--the manual claims there r 3 threaded holes in the collar & shaft that each require a bolt--my yoke has the 3 holes, but the bolt requires a larger wrench than described, & there is only 1 bolt. Some lazy tech left the other 2, I suppose. 2 of the holes are in very difficult to reach places anyway, & given the diameter of the bolt, the fact that its threaded thru the collar & into the shaft, & finally that its not in a spot where it will xperience much of the kind of pressure that would put strain on it, I'm tempted to leave it as is.

With that in mind, I've got the steering assembly put back together with the new pot mounted, & the 2 assemblies attached to each other again.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2013, 03:49:38 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #67 on: November 09, 2013, 01:10:50 am »
Please tell me you aren't planning on routing the wires for the rear pot where, over time, gravity will tend to pull them into the gears.   :o


Scott

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« Reply #68 on: November 09, 2013, 11:00:50 pm »
Good god, no. I haven't gotten to tying them off/mounting them yet, but I'm not taking any chances. They'll b tied & fastened safely away where gravity's evil work will only help hold them away from those gears. But thanks for pointing out the problem.

Got 1 handle mounted. Why only 1? Ever notice how instructions say 'slide handle onto shaft', or 'guide handle wires thru shaft to the nearest holes into steering assembly', & then, when u go to do it, u find the powder coat on your handles requires u to sand down their insides for 20 minutes before they'll slide onto that shaft, & that those holes in the shaft that the wires have to go thru have a burr on them that shreds the jackets on the wires, requiring some heat shrink tubing repair, & more sanding/filing to get that burr off? I love thorough instructions, but I hate it when they miss the problems that almost inevitably develop.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2013, 11:03:33 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #69 on: November 11, 2013, 11:30:29 pm »
Both handles mounted, wires tied off & run thru the shaft, x gear & clip immediately behind it removed so I could move the large washer I'd put between them to the RIGHT spot--between the clip & the bearing (1 of the pics from the manual made it look like it went where I had it at 1st  :angry:), & temporary flags attached to the wires on the exit side of the shaft to tell me who's who when I'm ready to attach them to the dual strike's pcb.

Caught another mistake. The x pot wasn't centered properly--when I turned the yoke on the x axis I saw the bumpers didn't make contact in 1 direction before I reached the end of the pot's turn  :o --fixed that!

...those grips feel darn sweet. It'll b great to race down the Death Star's trench again. Reached round 22 back when (saw a guy on round 100 once--no bull). I'm gonna beat that...
« Last Edit: November 11, 2013, 11:51:10 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #70 on: November 12, 2013, 11:16:27 pm »
Tested the yoke on 2 machines; an XP & a Windows 7. Both saw the dual strike, & picked up the triggers & thumb buttons, but neither responded to the pots at all. Supposedly the dual strike is compatible with XP, but why aren't the pots registering? I tested the pots before assembly & they read fine.

Also, enjoy this photo of  'xtra parts' left over from the yoke's reassembly. The 1's in the lower left corner I can account for, but the 1's on the right--maybe I got some stuff mixed in from elsewhere, but I doubt it...my boarder is a mechanic, he assured me that this happens with cars all the time...(yikes!)
« Last Edit: November 12, 2013, 11:21:54 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #71 on: November 13, 2013, 12:29:48 am »
Supposedly the dual strike is compatible with XP, but why aren't the pots registering? I tested the pots before assembly & they read fine.

Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #72 on: November 13, 2013, 03:19:42 pm »
Nice progress lcmgadgets!

I shall be following this! 8)
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #73 on: November 14, 2013, 09:52:33 am »
Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?

Crap. So this isn't just an XP/7 issue. I'll try to get around to testing this today. I DID test the pots before installation, can't recall exactly what I got but I must have been happy with the results then... :dunno

Nice progress lcmgadgets!

I shall be following this! 8)

Thanks. I have very little time to work on this, but I try to get even 15 minutes a day. I can use all the encouragement I can get. I know from a past project (non arcade related) that I can get it done this way, however frustrating it can sometimes b to c others racing by. Also, when u have so little time, even small set backs, like this pot mystery, can b xtra frustrating.

You're going to b following for a lonnnggg time, then.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 09:54:30 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #74 on: November 14, 2013, 12:05:27 pm »
You're going to b following for a lonnnggg time, then.

 ;D I'll make sure my future retirement home as internet then!  ;)
Your are still way ahead of my anyway! 8)
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #75 on: November 14, 2013, 12:08:06 pm »
Where r u at with yours?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #76 on: November 14, 2013, 12:16:07 pm »
No wood work yet, I am waiting on a router that I have to loan.
But I am well underway on the software parts, done trimming and categorizing the roms list, settled on a theme and a name and started work on my somewhat gaudy AtomicFE layout.  I also did a temp CP in wood, to the dimensions it will have. It has brought me the knowledge on how to correctly place may button layout on it and how I will wire this thing to the xin-mo (custom rs-45 connectors). The computer is almost ready to go, so it will basically be plug and play when I'm done.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #77 on: November 14, 2013, 12:41:09 pm »
Then, holy inaccurate, batman, you're definitely ahead of me! I've got most of the controls & interfaces I want, a coin door, monitors, old pc, most of the eye candy, lexan, &...I'm sure there's more down there collecting dust, some incomplete google sketch ups, & the basic idea of what I want, but the only physical work I've completed is on this yoke!

Have u posted your project?

...okay, just found it. Cool!
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 12:43:06 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #78 on: November 14, 2013, 02:46:49 pm »
Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?
Crap. So this isn't just an XP/7 issue. I'll try to get around to testing this today. I DID test the pots before installation, can't recall exactly what I got but I must have been happy with the results then... :dunno
I'm not sure if it's hardware or software.

I figured you may have installed the drivers (if needed?) and checked out the dual strike before you started the hack, which would eliminate software.   :dunno

All it takes is one bad solder joint to mess up the whole axis.

By testing for 5v and ground at the pot, you verify that those connections are good from the board.

By testing the wiper (white wire) at the pot you confirm that 5v and ground are good and verify that the pot is working properly which narrows your search down to where the wiper connects to the board.


Scott

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« Reply #79 on: November 14, 2013, 11:58:44 pm »
The pots check out fine on their own. XP & 7 see the dual strike, & recognize it. My W7 laptop claims its got the latest drivers. The thumbs & triggers work fine. On the dual strike's board, though, I'm getting nothing from the x axis...humph! If anything, I would have expected trouble from the y, since its the 1 that has to b soldered right to the board. Y seems fine. Maybe I broke 1 of those small wires I soldered too, or the connector on the board itself is bad...hmmm...played with that connector some, & now the computer doesn't pick up the dual strike at all! I have the feeling she's dead, Jim. I killed it. :-[

...YAY! I guess that means I'll just have to invest in...what's the best for my use? I'm trying to get a pair of positional guns, they'll need an analog interface too. I originally thought I might need something for driving controls, too, but I bought an RS wheel & pedals, so that potential problem is solved. What do u guys think.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #80 on: November 15, 2013, 01:00:07 am »
...YAY! I guess that means I'll just have to invest in...what's the best for my use? I'm trying to get a pair of positional guns, they'll need an analog interface too.
Get two mini usb cables and two MT-DB-U4 boards -- select ATMEL DFU bootloader, no headers, and 16MHz crystal order options for the boards.

 

Use the KADESTICK 2-axis firmware for the SW Yoke and use the 4-axis firmware for the two positional guns.   :cheers:

If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #81 on: November 15, 2013, 12:52:47 pm »
...I just followed the link u provided for those boards. ...They're only $15 EACH!!  :timebomb: Dual strikes on ebay r running for $20 each now! I could have avoided all that hassle for just $30?!!    :banghead: I figured I was looking at $50+ for an a-pac or u-hid!!

...Okay, rant over, I'm ordering right now. If anyone sees me missing something like this again, please let me know.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #82 on: November 15, 2013, 01:12:05 pm »
If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.

Scott

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #83 on: November 15, 2013, 02:15:29 pm »
If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.

Scott

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Not an official member of the team, but I've been one of the contributors/researchers/beta testers since May 2012 when Jon added Pinball Mode to the AVR Encoder based on my input.

Jon sent me the KADESTICK source (a spinoff of the KADE+ prototype they are working on) and the code changes that add analog inputs so I could do a little tinkering with it/recompile for other AVRs as needed.

Most of the code is way over my head, but I'm slowly making progress figuring out some fairly major changes for another build that needs a composite USB device.


Scott
« Last Edit: November 15, 2013, 02:23:25 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #84 on: November 15, 2013, 04:25:11 pm »
If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.

Scott

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Not an official member of the team, but I've been one of the contributors/researchers/beta testers since May 2012 when Jon added Pinball Mode to the AVR Encoder based on my input.

Jon sent me the KADESTICK source (a spinoff of the KADE+ prototype they are working on) and the code changes that add analog inputs so I could do a little tinkering with it/recompile for other AVRs as needed.

Most of the code is way over my head, but I'm slowly making progress figuring out some fairly major changes for another build that needs a composite USB device.


Scott

Sweet!  :cheers:
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #85 on: November 15, 2013, 04:47:21 pm »
Yeppers, Scott was and is still a major contributer to Kade,  he and I were in on the early design of the Kade and were privy to the beta testing and gave inputs to whats being sold today.  It was very cool to work with Sharp, Bruno, and Degenatrons.
   

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #86 on: November 15, 2013, 09:40:08 pm »
I helped with the rotary part.. kinda lol

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #87 on: November 15, 2013, 11:48:17 pm »
Cool! Then I REALLY know I'm getting the right thing! Thanks, Scott! I can't imagine why I'd want the yoke & 2 guns plugged in at the same time, so I shouldn't need a special unit. It's great to know that it's possible, though.

I didn't order the 2 cables. I'm pretty sure I've got at least 2 of those in my big bin of assorted electronic odds & ends (crap, in other words).

While I'm waiting for those boards to arrive, I think I'll start on refurbishing this old Stern coin door. I want it fully functional. My plan is to use it as a glorified piggy bank (all games 25 cents, of course, as god intended it), with any money collected going into either upgrades or for my son. Or I could start on the computer, but I imagine this project is going to take long enuf to complete that by the time I need it I'll be able to pick up an obsolete Skynet for $50, so I'll leave that for now.  ;D

So here's the door, I bought a disturbingly long time ago. I think I'll get it bead blasted & powder coated by the guy who did the yoke. Xpensive, but u get what u pay for.

The coin mechs look pretty good, & the switches r good. Don't c why I can't get the other metal on the inside of the door blasted. I'd like to replace those bulbs with LEDs if possible. If the wires r good, why shouldn't I keep 'em?

I disassembled it (taking lots of pics & video as I went for reassembly), until, as u can c, all that's left is the lock. I need a long 7/8" socket  :angry:. I tried pliers, channel locks, & a lot of cursing, but that damn thing is on there good. I'll get it tomorrow.

By the way, how do u put text between pics in a post??
« Last Edit: November 18, 2013, 12:45:17 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #88 on: November 19, 2013, 08:07:05 pm »
Got the lock off with a nail punch & hammer (I'm replacing the lock anyway, & I didn't damage the door). Cleaned up the 'quarter' inserts, & used some novus polish to remove some scratches. They came out nice.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #89 on: November 22, 2013, 11:33:12 pm »
Cleaned up the plastic watchamacallem coin slot thingies--they were filthy & a lot harder to clean than I thought they would b. Completed the rust removal of the other interior parts (other than the coin mechs--they're not rusty (1 of em is mostly plastic)--I'll try a gentle dirt-removal cleaning with them), & started dabbling with spray painting them silver. Recalled what I've read about spray painting--spray past the part, start with the toughest edges, spray the wide spaces last, & several light coats rather than 1 thick one. Came out looking pretty good.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #90 on: November 30, 2013, 09:33:05 pm »
Some of the parts near the end of painting. I'm using a chrome-finish like paint for the (nearly) visible parts behind the coin return (the 2 parts on the right). Clear coating too. Damn thing should b just about indestructible by the time I'm done. I'm also told the door & frame pieces have been blasted & powder coated--pick up tomorrow. I'm told they look good--I should hope so as its costing me $110.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #91 on: December 08, 2013, 07:54:25 pm »
Painting done, bead blasting & powder coating done. &, with the help of the many pics I took while disassembling this thing, I got it reassembled. Looks good. Except for the loss of the Stern decal. I think I'll put some custom artwork where it was.

...I don't know how these pics got posted upside down... :dunno
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #92 on: December 08, 2013, 09:58:52 pm »
sweet, better than new

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #93 on: December 09, 2013, 02:25:24 am »
...By the way, how do u put text between pics in a post??

I use a Flickr account to host all my images then put them in place with the IMG tag when creating my posts. Flickr also gives me options to chose what size of image i want to show and generates a link for me. Its also free, which is a plus.  and you can do minor edits like rotation so you don't end up posting one upside down. :)  Just drag and drop them into the flickr upload page. Easy.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #94 on: December 09, 2013, 07:09:43 am »
I use a Flickr account to host all my images

And what happens when [insert photo hosting site] moves your photos to another server, wrongly deletes your account, changes their terms of service, or goes out of business?  What if the acount is hacked, you forget your password, exceed your monthly bandwith allowance for the site, you/wife/kids accidently delete the pics, or you decide you don't need those old build photos any more?   :banghead:

The photo documentation of a number of great builds has been lost this way.

A little more effort sizing/uploading them to BYOAC ensures that you don't end up turning a great build thread into little more than tantalizing/confusing/frustrating text.

Since you're taking the time to document and share your build experience, please exert the tiny bit more effort to upload at least the key photos to a post in this thread (stickied at the top of "Project Announcements" for your convenience) along with a few key words so you can easily find your pics later.

The only thing to look out for is that you don't accidently link to a thumbnail instead of the full-size image.   ;D

The icon on the toolbar inserts the "img" start and end tags, then you paste the link to your photo between the tags.

The link should look like this: 
Code: [Select]
[img]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249899;image[/img]

Scott
« Last Edit: December 09, 2013, 07:20:50 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #95 on: December 09, 2013, 10:20:03 am »
But wouldn't that create a LOT of storage issues for BYOAC?  There's got to be a gajillion photos.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #96 on: December 09, 2013, 01:09:08 pm »
That's why I take the time to resize and crop mine before uploading.   :cheers:

If Saint didn't want us to upload photos here (within the defined limits), why would he make + sticky the photo thread?

If/when the photo thread gets too large for the database to handle properly, Saint will start another thread. (He's done it before.)

If someone has hundreds of photos of their build, they could easily upload the key ones related to the build text and use links to the Flickr gallery pics for the rest of the shots.

If the Flickr account is ever disabled/deleted, the key pics would still be available.


Scott
« Last Edit: December 09, 2013, 01:11:15 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #97 on: December 09, 2013, 03:58:38 pm »
Should we go back and do that for existing threads?

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #98 on: December 09, 2013, 09:33:07 pm »
/slowly backs out of thread.

/runs.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #99 on: December 10, 2013, 01:01:35 am »
Should we go back and do that for existing threads?
As always, that's up to each poster, but it would be a good idea for people to review their build threads. (if applicable)

Pics showing the stripping and repainting of a rusty coin door frame are no great loss, but I'd hate for future readers to lose the photos of your CP hinge setup, monitor mount, and great wiring on The Blue Pill.

Few other posters have taken good low angle wiring shots like this one that shows an end-view of the euro-style terminal strip and the elevated yellow wire bundle.   :cheers:



[/thread derail]


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #100 on: December 10, 2013, 10:44:34 am »
Wow.  Thanks!  I'll go back and see if I can't upload them.

/hijack

AJ

Should we go back and do that for existing threads?
As always, that's up to each poster, but it would be a good idea for people to review their build threads. (if applicable)

Pics showing the stripping and repainting of a rusty coin door frame are no great loss, but I'd hate for future readers to lose the photos of your CP hinge setup, monitor mount, and great wiring on The Blue Pill.

Few other posters have taken good low angle wiring shots like this one that shows an end-view of the euro-style terminal strip and the elevated yellow wire bundle.   :cheers:



[/thread derail]


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #101 on: December 10, 2013, 10:53:55 pm »
Shoot, I guess I should do that too.

Cleaned up the plastic coin mech (hot soapy water, just as it says on its side) & it works great. Went to have a look at the metal 1, & discovered a screw missing (upper left corner in pic).  :angry: it had to b in there when I took the mech out, & has fallen out & rolled out of sight somewhere. Spent some useless minutes looking for it. Ah well, I c on ebay that these things r cheap, & I've heard several times here that London is the coin op capital of Ontario  :dunno, so I imagine I'll just buy another 1. Then I gotta figure out what I'm gonna do next...

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #102 on: February 11, 2014, 10:17:33 pm »
Okay, Christmas over, New Years done, momentum regathered, & I'm back. Put the lock on the coin door, will look into getting LEDs to replace the bulbs, in the meantime I went back to the 'yoke. Looked at the 2 boards recommended by PL1. Beautiful little things! & I have no idea how to wire them up :-\. Looked over the manual at the manufacturer's site, now I have enough of an idea that I might only fry 2 or 4 before I get one wired up--wrong.
The firmware'll be easy enough to find, I hope. How do I program these things? I have a teeny bit of experience with pic programmers, but no clue about what to do with these.

...guess I'll cut the side winder board off, & go looking for those coin door bulb replacements now...
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #103 on: February 12, 2014, 07:19:32 am »
Looked at the 2 boards recommended by PL1. Beautiful little things! & I have no idea how to wire them up :-\. Looked over the manual at the manufacturer's site, now I have enough of an idea that I might only fry 2 or 4 before I get one wired up--wrong.
The firmware'll be easy enough to find, I hope. How do I program these things?

All answers revealed between the KADESTICK thread, pages 17-19 of the MT-DB-U4 manual, and this yoke pinout.   ;D



The 2-axis firmware is in the first post of the KADESTICK thread under "***HEX File Download Link.***"

I've updated the thread with links and directions for using FLIP to load the firmware/hex file since that was not very clear.   :cheers:


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #104 on: February 12, 2014, 08:33:39 am »
Scott, is this all a wiki entry yet? - the whole kadestick to yoke thing seems to be generating some interest.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #105 on: February 12, 2014, 09:36:44 am »
Scott, is this all a wiki entry yet? - the whole kadestick to yoke thing seems to be generating some interest.

KADESTICK is really just an interim testbed for analog controls in Jon's KADE+ project, just like the AVR Encoder was the predecessor of the KADE.

I've updated the KADESTICK thread with directions on programming the board, included a SW yoke pinout, and posted a link to TwistyWrist.  (TwistyWrist has the best prices on the molex connector and pins needed to connect the yoke harness to the AVR without hacking the harness.  Don't maim for MAME.  ;D)

The KADESTICK thread should be easy enough to follow for anyone wanting to build an inexpensive yoke interface now instead of waiting for the much more versatile and easy-to-customize KADE+.

Jon is almost finished with the prototype KADE+ firmware, so it will be quite a long while before the KADE+ project is ready to go.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #106 on: February 12, 2014, 11:47:09 am »
Thanks PL1. Sorry I have to be spoon fed this stuff. I sure appreciate the help. I see the section you're talking about in the manual now--so glad these boards don't require a dedicated programmer (I suppose I should have guessed that given the mini USB cable connector). I'll print at least that part out, & download the appropriate files.
...Maybe I'll soon be looking at a live test of the yoke (propped on the table & plugged into the laptop--if I mount it on a scrap of particle board so it makes S'Wars remotely playable, that might prove too tempting--I could end up disappearing for a while ;D).
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #107 on: February 12, 2014, 12:06:38 pm »
Nothing to be sorry about, you're helping clarify the process and add information that I had overlooked.  :cheers:


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #108 on: February 12, 2014, 11:16:28 pm »
...I just followed the link u provided for those boards. ...They're only $15 EACH!!  :timebomb: Dual strikes on ebay r running for $20 each now! I could have avoided all that hassle for just $30?!!    :banghead: I figured I was looking at $50+ for an a-pac or u-hid!!
Padhacks are a pain.  Open source solutions are the way to go in this hobby  :)

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Scott and RaBlack are HUGE contributors to the project.  I'd say they are part of the "team".

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #109 on: February 12, 2014, 11:49:39 pm »
We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Scott and RaBlack are HUGE contributors to the project.  I'd say they are part of the "team".
Thanks for your kind words.   :cheers:

Rod and I are on the JV squad.   :lol


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #110 on: February 14, 2014, 11:39:41 pm »
Alright, alright, I'm an idiot  :banghead:. I've gone over the kadestick thread for an hour now, & I still can't figure out which wire from the yoke connects to which hole on the ATmega's board. Am I missing it somewhere, or am I really this dumb?  :dunno
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #111 on: February 15, 2014, 02:49:30 am »
 

Yoke Pin # - KADESTICK Pin Label
  1  - Button 1
  2  - Button 2
  3  - Button 3
  4  - Button 4
  5  - Analog Wiper 1
  6  - Analog Wiper 2
  9  - 5v for Analog (or the Avcc pin on the left side should also work :dunno -- both provide 5v IIRC)
 10 - Ground (Analog)
 11 - Ground (Buttons)
 12 - Ground (Lower left corner of board -- not labeled/needed for original KADESTICK, but this pin should work fine for the SW yoke frame ground.)


Scott
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 02:54:31 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #112 on: February 15, 2014, 09:13:37 am »
Thanks Scott. Much clearer--I think. I think I was over complicating things. Reminds me of the 1st time I read a circuit schematic; it took me some time to convince myself that I simply had to connect the dots when wiring up the components.

Still some confusion, though.  :dizzy: I don't understand all the focus on the pinout. Wouldn't any connector do, or even directly soldering the board to the yoke (I'm NOT doing that!!) work, as long as u had the right number of connections in the right place?

& what's an 'analog wiper'? Sounds like something that returns analog inputs to 0?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #113 on: February 15, 2014, 04:14:51 pm »
Still some confusion, though.  :dizzy: I don't understand all the focus on the pinout. Wouldn't any connector do, or even directly soldering the board to the yoke (I'm NOT doing that!!) work, as long as u had the right number of connections in the right place?
Making the right connections to the right places is the first reason for the focus on the pinout.

The second reason is that I'm trying to keep the cheapskate chuckle-head noobs from hacking off the molex and soldering the wires straight to the AVR.
Don't maim for MAME!   :soapbox:

What happens if the AVR goes bad? What if they don't finish the build?  What happens when they decide to sell it?

If you don't hack the original harness, the yoke can be easily swapped to/from an original game or removed for maintenance, no problem.

Another reason to keep it original is that Atari used a special wire with more strands which makes the wires more flexible.

Chips4sle sold five NOS SW yoke harnesses on KLOV several years ago.  Those (+ a hydra harness) are the only ones I've found there. (A good replacement for a hacked harness is rare.)

& what's an 'analog wiper'? Sounds like something that returns analog inputs to 0?
Here's a modified pic from Le Chuck's SW Micro build showing the insides of a potentiometer.

The black resistive element is a resistor.

5v on the top tab and ground (0v) on the bottom tab allows you to select a voltage (a.k.a. "potential") between those values.

A wiper arm slides over (wipes across) the surface of the board, making contact between the silver ring in the center and a point on the resistive element.

The contact point is the bump on the right side of the wiper.

When you center the knob, the arm makes contact at the green bar, giving you 2.5 volts on the wiper. (assuming it is a linear pot)

When you turn the knob to the blue bar, you get 4.5 volts on the wiper.

If you reverse the 5v and Gnd tabs, green will still give you 2.5v and blue will give you 0.5v.


Scott
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 04:41:14 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #114 on: February 16, 2014, 10:56:18 am »
A few things have occurred to stupid me--I've been harking on about which wire goes to which connection on the ATMega's board, forgetting that its programmable, so there r some options (duh!).

I've played around with pots for a few years--& yet it never occurred to me that those 3 connections might have specific names  :dizzy:.

Unless I REALLY misunderstand u, that pinout pic is of an original SW yoke molex connector. If that's right, here's the confusion--a pic of the 1 that came with mine:

« Last Edit: February 17, 2014, 09:41:44 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #115 on: February 16, 2014, 05:11:27 pm »
Sorry, Bro.  Looks like someone hacked the harness before you got it.   :badmood:

You'll need to sort out the pin assignments on that connector.

You may also want to restore it to the original pin and connector configuation for future compatibility -- it will only take $5 worth of pins and connectors from TwistyWrist.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #116 on: February 17, 2014, 09:40:05 pm »
I'm going to do just that.

Okay, I'll add a confession--I'd already cut off that connector--but it really was the 1 that was there when I bought the yoke.  :dunno I had cut it in such a way that I could reuse it if I could find a mate for it. This way'll b easier & better, I suppose.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #117 on: May 20, 2016, 08:15:34 pm »
Well...
It certainly has been some time since I've posted about my own project. Is it finished? Heck no. About all I've accomplished towards it since my last post about it is I bought a positional gun, & I've added a lot to my sketchup drawing.
But will it be finished? Heck yes.
So what have I been doing? Well, whats holding up things right now is that I'm involved with a group that are working towards creating a roller rink in our city. There hasn't been 1 since the late 80's. Some of u know I got back into roller skating after my wife died, and have become a fanatic. But a lot of us are tired of skating in community centres and dry ice rinks, or going across the border to enjoy the amazing rinks in Michigan. Its time for a rink here again; it hasn't been this popular in years.
So I've been google sketchup'ing our proposed rink, using the building we're considering renting/renovating--if we can get the money. After a number of other avenues we've considered, we've decided to launch a GoFundMe campaign to raise the $125G+ we need to make it happen. The deadline to launch the campaign is August.

After that, I'll be returning to 'Legacy. Stand by.

Oh, & I'll certainly be announcing the GoFundMe campaign in 'Everything Else'; we can use all the help we can get to make this dream come true. Wish us luck.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #118 on: June 28, 2016, 08:26:30 pm »
All the best in your roller rink endeavors.  I got to second base (skin to skin not that over the clothes crap) for the first time in a roller rink.  She was chubby.  The skinny girls didn't have boobs yet.  We were young.  Good times. 

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #119 on: July 02, 2016, 08:57:11 pm »
All the best in your roller rink endeavors.  I got to second base (skin to skin not that over the clothes crap) for the first time in a roller rink.  She was chubby.  The skinny girls didn't have boobs yet.  We were young.  Good times.

This comment wins the internet today..... :applaud:
Fuzzy Wuzzy was a woman!

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #120 on: July 21, 2017, 11:25:38 pm »
Moving right along, I completed the google sketchup of Legacy. As mentioned, it's pretty much a modified clone of weisshaupt's Ghost in the Machine Mark II. The major changes are the monitor in place of a marquee (thanks to Randy T for inspiration on how to make a standard monitor look like 2 'short' monitors--I looked into buying a non standard short & wide monitor, but as some of you probably know, they cost more than $900), a rear-view monitor to display the controls needed for a chosen game, a working coin door, and the fact that the other control panels will have to be stored elsewhere--there simply isn't room inside the cab.
....crap, now that this is done, I actually have to start building the thing...unless...ahh! Time to look at the software!

...okay, its actually not all psychedelic like the image suggests. It only converts to this when I try to export it as a png or jpg file. Anyone have any idea how to fix this?
« Last Edit: July 21, 2017, 11:53:50 pm by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #121 on: July 22, 2017, 05:23:07 pm »
Oh boy, software....

As I began my research, in my imagination, I wandered up over the hill to have my first look on the neat, ordered and labeled garden of relevant software in the valley below. I realized as I approached the hill that it was unlikely to be a neat garden--probably more like a semi-civilized meadow or light woods with signed foot and bike paths.

I should have known better. An endless jungle of swamps, quicksand, thorns and brush lay before me, interspersed with signs and bill boards, most of them in languages I can't read, sometimes with contradictory information, and few in complete agreement on anything. How the hell am I gonna sort through all this?

Theres so much to consider....

First I wondered about the operating system. I have some help from a computer genius friend. I told him I want to run Mame, Daphne, maybe some of the console emulators, and a few old DOS (Doom, Duke Nukem 3D) and old Windows 98 games (Dungeon Keeper 2). He recommended Linux. Its been a loonnng time since I studied or used linux, so I suspect this is gonna be a long learning curve.

And I wondered about the front end. After looking at a long list of titles, I wondered if there might be a survey of opinions. I found one, here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84933.360/viewresults.html
Going by it, I'll try Hyperspin first.

Also, I'm still stuck on whether to stick with the obsolete clunker desktop I've been hanging onto for this project, buying something newer & more gaming dedicated (I could play more up to date games then (Elite Dangerous!), I suppose), or go even farther away from my original ideas--a raspberry pi build.

I welcome all ideas and opinions. So many of you know so much more than I do about this, I'm gonna need lotsa help.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2017, 05:39:47 pm by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #122 on: July 22, 2017, 07:15:31 pm »
....hmmm...linux has changed! In my day WINE was still in development. This looks like it'll be the way to go, and much easier than I feared  :)
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #123 on: July 24, 2017, 04:27:49 pm »
Huh.  ???

I thought for sure that someone would jump on me about 'moving right along...'.

Tough audience, I guess... ;D
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #124 on: July 24, 2017, 04:38:06 pm »
Its's hard to get excited about a project that was announced in 2013 and there hasn't been even a hint of hot saw to wood action.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #125 on: July 24, 2017, 07:30:41 pm »
Its's hard to get excited about a project that was announced in 2013 and there hasn't been even a hint of hot saw to wood action.

He took some time off to pursue his roller disco dreams...

***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #126 on: July 25, 2017, 01:35:57 am »
Its's hard to get excited about a project that was announced in 2013 and there hasn't been even a hint of hot saw to wood action.
:embarassed:
Very true, very true. I warned people when I started that this would be a very slow moving project, but I didn't think it'd go this slow! And now that I'm back, I'm finding it hard to pick it back up.

Also...I'm chicken :embarassed:. I got enough cash set aside to finish this project, IF I don't mess up & have to redo too many things. I gotta grow a set & take the chance. I'm going to make some mistakes, but I think I've planned enough that they won't be disastrous.

He took some time off to pursue his roller disco dreams...

As for the roller rink, it also still isn;t happening  :(. Although roller skating never lost popularity just over the border, its been all but forgotten here, it seems. I think thats been our biggest handicap. Although, there is, finally, a rink opening in Ajax, just east of Toronto. I'll be there, probably opening day, in late August. Wish it was a little closer...

Anyway, back on track. I tried to fire up the old pc I've been saving for this project (& playing X3 Reunion and other old games on), & only the fan came on! No beep, nothing on the monitor. I puzzled over this for a while, until a friend's computer genius son suggested this: dead clock battery. I pulled it, tested it, and sure enough, dead. I'll try to get a replacement tomorrow.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #127 on: July 25, 2017, 10:15:51 am »
Welcome back. Glad to see you working on this.  :applaud:

My thoughts on your questions... skip the Pi unless you have space restraints (don't think this is an issue). Use the clunker you have until you run into a situation that prevents you from playing something you want - Hyperspin might be too much for your clunker. Check out Simply Austin on youtube for Hyperspin setup tutorials. Personally, I would start with windows 7 or 10 but that is because I know Windows and I don't know Linux at all but if you do then go for it.

The cost outlay of the above is $0. Old computer that you have = free. Hyperspin = free. Linux or existing Windows OS (assuming XP or 7) = free. Dive in and IF you have to spend a bit of cash to get what you really want, upgrade the PC in the future. Get this part started and running and you may get excited about completing it instead of scared.

Good luck.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #128 on: July 25, 2017, 10:38:01 am »
Build the cabinet. Worry about the computer junk later. Once you have a sweet arcade cabinet taking up space in your house, you will be extra motivated to setup the computer stuff.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #129 on: July 25, 2017, 12:10:50 pm »
Build the cabinet. Worry about the computer junk later. Once you have a sweet arcade cabinet taking up space in your house, you will be extra motivated to setup the computer stuff.

Unless it has the words "Turbo" "Turkey" and "Puncher" in the name.  :D

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #130 on: July 26, 2017, 12:49:12 pm »
Build the cabinet. Worry about the computer junk later. Once you have a sweet arcade cabinet taking up space in your house, you will be extra motivated to setup the computer stuff.

Thats what I've started thinking. Damn, I gotta find somewhere to do the work.

Unless it has the words "Turbo" "Turkey" and "Puncher" in the name.  :D

 :lol

Besides, I got more computer work to do. Swapped in a new battery--thought it was fixed--it tried to boot, & locked up. Reset it, it started to boot, then started again, then started again... Reset it again: Got a blank screen & 3 long beeps--bad motherboard or ram?--uh oh. Opened it up, looked it over, pulled the ram chips & reset them, fired it up--the fan came on...& thats it. My guess is that the motherboard is fudged.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

  
 

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