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Author Topic: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy  (Read 16587 times)

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lcmgadgets

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Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« on: May 06, 2013, 01:01:08 am »
Hi everyone :).

I've been thinking/planning/acquiring parts/google sketchuping for a dream cab for a long time now (i think, in fact, since 2006). Other Byoacers have been talking of buying/building me a cab (for reasons many of u know, & if u don't & want to, ask & I'll reveal) & at first I was tempted, but I finally realized that the journey is what mattered to me, & I have to build this myself (but not without help!). This is going to b a long journey. I have very little free time (I have a 7 year old son with special needs for whom I am now not only the sole caregiver but also the teacher), few tools & no real work room, & I have one 'white elephant' of a project in mind. I want to build a Ghost in the Machine Mark II-like cab, with a RandyT lcd marquee. A friend recently offered his work room for my use, once he cleans it up, & if that falls thru, I have some other ideas (& if anyone out there has any thots as to where someone might get the use of a woodshop somewhere, please let me know. I've considered looking for a school with one, or maybe the local college...). In the meantime, I'm going to build & prep what I can.

The name of the cab is Legacy, for a number of reasons, including that my late dad donated the bulk of the money that makes the project possible at all. I have acquired the bulk of the controls (lacking a Tron/DOT stick--considering a u360/Tron handle mod for that 1, a positional gun for Operation Wolf/Terminator, a 360 degree steering wheel (I'm hoping GGG will sell me one to fit on the push/pull spinner I bought from them ages back) & maybe a periscope, if I can figure out how to build one & make it work), interfaces (should I stick with my aged plans to use a Sidewinder hack for Star Wars?), & other stuff (t molding, el-wire, monitors, coin door, etc.).

I've studied the many wonderful projects, plans, ideas, photos, videos, etc., bought both of 'Saint's books, & otherwise scoured for information to decide what I wanted, & how to do it.

& if I'm ever going to do it, I have to start. I'm going to need a lot of help. I'm not a carpenter, a programmer, or an electrician (although I have completed a couple of very ugly electronic projects). So I'm going to b asking for a lot of help.

So here I go: I have a Star Wars yoke, & after letting it sit on a shelf for over a year, I finally took it down & began to figure out what I'm going to have to do to it to use it. Long ago I decided to use Jude Kelly's sidewinder hack to interface it, & bought a couple of sidewinders off ebay, but since then other analog interfaces have been made, & if anyone can convince me to switch, I will. Anyway, I disassembled it, sent the cover & handles away for bead blasting & powder coating, looked over the rest to see what would have to b replaced, & what could b salvaged. I just missed RAM Controls closure, otherwise I might have chanced being ripped off to buy one of their rebuild kits. It looks like I'll have to get the bulk of what I think I need from ArcadeFitit.com--expensive, but I don't see an alternative. I tried to clean a lot of the parts, first by soaking them in degreaser--& here I've encountered my first problem--a black goo, that I thot was just grease, on some of the parts will not come off. It looks like the crap thats left of the bumpers (which, of course, need replacing). Anyone out there encounter this goo, & found a way to remove it?

...and so it begins...
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

Le Chuck

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2013, 01:07:02 am »
Dude, I'm in for the ride.  Sounds like you have a lot of controls and a lot of goals for this cab.  I'll let others issue words of caution.  I for one want to sit back and see drawings, pics, renders, or something of what you have in mind.  Let's get started!

Slydsho

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2013, 02:36:50 am »
im in for the ride as well, i love seeing custom builds and following the goods and the bads. subscribed, and good luck with the project  :cheers:

Brian74

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2013, 08:25:08 am »
Im right beside you, in for the long haul. I will help you as much as I can!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
         

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2013, 10:18:32 am »
I'm down.  Pictures and details of what you've tried or your thoughts will go a long long way towards the best help provided.  You can do it!

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2013, 10:34:54 am »
Gulp. Thanks everyone. I knew this day had to come, & this certainly isn't the best time, but there's never going to b a perfect time, so I might as well either get rid of all these wonderful parts gathering dust in the basement, & call myself a failure, or get to work.

I have a lot to do. If I can manage it, I'm going to try to document as much as possible, to make this road easier for others to follow (if any r interested). I know I certainly have appreciated the mountains of detail others have given, without it this project wouldn't b possible. I better get back to work with sketchup--I had made a fair amount of progress with it (drawing controllers, in particular, with way too much detail), when I changed gears & simply stole weisshaupt's beautiful sketchup of his glorious Ghost in the Machine Mark II (along with his rotating monitor plans, lighted t-moulding, etc.). I was spending my time trying to edit his sketchup to suit my needs, when...life went to hell. Now its time to get back to work.

I've also got to clean & organize what little work room I have here (the furnace room, which is about 10' X 10', but good enough for small work).

So, back to the immediate point: Anyone have any idea how to get this black goo off my yoke (that almost sounds like something...)? I've tried degreaser & goo gone. Both have had very limited affect on it. Some of the parts in question r plastic (the 'spacer bearing', in particular), so I don't want to try wire wheeling it off.

Also, I'm wondering what parts on it I really must replace. The gears look great, the steering shafts have a little wear on them but still look pretty good. The large springs (the torsion & handle springs--I'm looking at the parts list from the manual) LOOK good, but I don't know if I should trust appearances. The retainers on the thumb buttons have a little tiny bit of corrosion, but still, I think, look pretty good. I won't gamble on the pots or microswitches, I simply replace them & b sure. Should the old wiring go, if it doesn't have holes or wear on it? The trigger buttons are fine. I'm replacing the thumb & trigger springs. Of course the bumpers r shot. I've got to get new screws for the outside cover, but the rest look okay (some have a little corrosion, but I think they're fine). Are those brassy ring/cap things what the manual calls 'bearings'? Hard to tell, but they look pretty good, a little scratched around the edges maybe (probably all from my efforts to remove them)...

Any ideas/thots/opinions? ???
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2013, 10:37:49 am »
Are you planning to use swappable panels, or are you going to have all those controls mounted at once?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2013, 11:56:33 am »
Woot lets do this!!!

Yep those brass rings are the barings, as long as the shafts aren't knocking around or grinding in them you'll be ok. As for the black goop I'm not too sure, but if you're trying to get it off metal try paint stripper, just do it in a ventilated area.
I just finished rebuilding a Paperboy yolk which uses a lot of the same parts. Sounds like you already managed to pull the gears apart so you've survived removing the long brass shaft retaining bolts without snapping them. Remember when you put those back just hand tighten them, they can damage really easy.
You can get the Pots from a bunch of different places, they are 5k, the thing you just need to look out for is matching the shaft length.

Good luck on the rest of the build, just remember if you're using MDF, work with it outside AND wear a good dust mask, that stuff is great to work with but hell on your sinuses and lungs.

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2013, 12:08:53 pm »
Are you planning to use swappable panels, or are you going to have all those controls mounted at once?

Swappable modules. Like Ghost in the Machine's....I imagine I'm gonna need something pretty robust to support that yoke...

Yep those brass rings are the barings, as long as the shafts aren't knocking around or grinding in them you'll be ok. As for the black goop I'm not too sure, but if you're trying to get it off metal try paint stripper, just do it in a ventilated area.
I just finished rebuilding a Paperboy yolk which uses a lot of the same parts. Sounds like you already managed to pull the gears apart so you've survived removing the long brass shaft retaining bolts without snapping them. Remember when you put those back just hand tighten them, they can damage really easy.
You can get the Pots from a bunch of different places, they are 5k, the thing you just need to look out for is matching the shaft length.

Good luck on the rest of the build, just remember if you're using MDF, work with it outside AND wear a good dust mask, that stuff is great to work with but hell on your sinuses and lungs.

Thanks! I was a little concerned about those retaining bolts; they took a little more force than I expected to come out--almost seemed seized. Got lucky I guess. I'll post a pic of my 'work table' (snicker) later with the parts scattered across it, then I'm gonna start cleaning/organizing it, like I should have before I started.

 Yeah, I figured I'd try paint stripper next. & I have a tin of acetone--but might that not hurt the plastic (it always seems to damage Plastic Man, but isn't he more like rubber?)?

& I'm either using plywood or mdo (the guy who says he lend me his workshop has a process for covering the ply that looks great, & that he says is almost indestructible--it's used for bar tops).

Okay, gotta go educate my kid. Later
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2013, 12:10:56 pm »
Yeah, I figured I'd try paint stripper next. & I have a tin of acetone--but might that not hurt the plastic (it always seems to damage Plastic Man, but isn't he more like rubber?)?

If it's on plastic don't try the paint stripper on that, it'll probably assplode into a mushroom cloud

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2013, 12:12:24 am »
Uhh, I suspect I just did something dumb (1 of many, & many more to come). I wrote a fairly long message about what I've done today, attached some pics, & tried to post &...lost it all. I've never tried to attach pics before--what'd I do wrong?

Will post again tomorrow with details about todays (meager) accomplishments.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

Le Chuck

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2013, 06:25:24 pm »
Uhh, I suspect I just did something dumb (1 of many, & many more to come). I wrote a fairly long message about what I've done today, attached some pics, & tried to post &...lost it all. I've never tried to attach pics before--what'd I do wrong?

Will post again tomorrow with details about todays (meager) accomplishments.

I always post then edit to add pics so I don't drop the post if something goes wrong with the upload, that or copy the message to my clipboard before posting.  It happens to everybody occasionally. 

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2013, 11:56:54 pm »
Thanks. I'll do that from now on. My laptop is pretty buggy (I need to reformat the drive & start from scratch...if I can only find my Windows 7 CD...), so I wouldn't b surprised if the problem occured at my end.

I'll try again.

I wanted to post my (meager) achievements since last time.

The Act-Labs RS Steering Wheel & 3 pedal set that I've been looking for forever arrived today. I've been looking for a long time, but was determined not to buy them from Act-Labs directly if I could find them used. Got a set that the seller claims were never used. Got an RS Shifter with them, unfortunately, as now I have 2 shifters. So for anyone who wants one, expect to c it on the buy/sell/trade soon, unless...hmmm. I may have just thot of another use for it.

I bought a Logitech Attack 3 joystick off ebay & it arrived today too, I plan to mod it to play 720 degrees, as I've discovered others have done here.

I'm working on an order of parts from ArcadeFixIt.com, who seem to be the only vendor left with everything I think I need to refurbish my Star Wars yoke (boy, I sure wish I'd gotten that rebuild kit from RAM...). Here's a loaded question: Do I have to replace the large springs (the torsion & handle springs)? They look fine, but I can't tell if they've lost any...springiness(?). Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding an old yoke & comparing old vs new springs?

& I'm working on cleaning up/organizing my 'work room'. Yes, I should have done this before I started on the yoke, but I couldn't make myself wait. My work room is small, & I've got the keep the fumes in there way down, but it'll do for electronics/computer prep/other small work.

Oh--& with electronics/soldering in mind, I (yes, ME) have a tip for other solder-ers out there that, correct me if I'm wrong, a lot don't know about. A few years ago I completed my 1st electronics project--a kvasar dream mask (google it, & b warned, its different. & I promptly sold it on ebay for $41). A problem that plagued me thru this project was keeping my soldering tips clean, despite my best efforts (yes, I used a sponge to clean between solder-ings, I used flux to prep the parts & otherwise tried to keep everything very clean). I finally spent a couple days doing research, & then bought a block of sal ammoniac off ebay. Amazing stuff. Simply work the hot soldering tip into the block & add some tin at the same time, & u get a perfectly clean, perfectly tinned tip, cleaner than the 1st time u used it. But wear a filtered mask--the fumes generated from this stuff r toxic.

Also, thanks for the tip concerning cleaning that spacer--I stayed away from paint stripper & tried the acetone--that got all the goo off except for a faint stain that was left behind. The parts look good.

Okay, now I'm going to try to post this, then edit it as Le Chuck suggests & add the photos. Wish me luck...

...Hmmm...I think I discovered the 1st problem: All my pics r over the minimum size. I'll have to try taking them again & playing with the res or something to get them down. Not that readers r missing much; they were of my 'work room', & of the yoke. I'll try to figure it out tomorrow. Everyday, however small, I'm going to try to accomplish something.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2013, 12:39:41 am by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2013, 12:22:48 am »
Also keep in mind the directions for attachments:

Quote
Allowed file types: txt, jpg, gif, pdf, png, zip, rar, jpeg, skp, svg, ai, gif
Restrictions: 8 per post, maximum total size 5120KB, maximum individual size 2048KB

You may need to resize photos or adjust the resolution to make them fit.

If you try to link a file extension that isn't allowed, it will flush the whole thing when you click on "post" IIRC.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2013, 12:48:33 am »
Also keep in mind the directions for attachments:

Quote
Allowed file types: txt, jpg, gif, pdf, png, zip, rar, jpeg, skp, svg, ai, gif
Restrictions: 8 per post, maximum total size 5120KB, maximum individual size 2048KB

You may need to resize photos or adjust the resolution to make them fit.

If you try to link a file extension that isn't allowed, it will flush the whole thing when you click on "post" IIRC.


Scott

U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #15 on: May 08, 2013, 01:53:09 am »
U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.

No need to adjust your camera, the easiest re-sizing you can do is just using Paint in Windows, open the jpeg in Paint, select Resize, select By: Pixels and then just type in the Horizontal value, the Vertical value will automatically adjust if you keep the Maintain aspect ratio checkbox ticked.  Save the resized image and you're away!  Set an image size of 640 x 480 for an easy to manage file size.   I'm betting your camera's lowest res would still be above 800 x 600.
You might think that you're scared, but you're not.  That isn't fear.  That's your sharpness.  That's your power.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #16 on: May 08, 2013, 03:39:53 am »
U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.

No need to adjust your camera, the easiest re-sizing you can do is just using Paint in Windows, open the jpeg in Paint, select Resize, select By: Pixels and then just type in the Horizontal value, the Vertical value will automatically adjust if you keep the Maintain aspect ratio checkbox ticked.  Save the resized image and you're away!  Set an image size of 640 x 480 for an easy to manage file size.   I'm betting your camera's lowest res would still be above 800 x 600.

I agree about not adjusting the camera resolution too low.

With higher resolution, it's sometimes easier to crop for a detail shot like below than getting the macro focus to work right.  :banghead:     :angry: depth of field.

I usually use Windows Paint to crop and resize pics -- can't find a "resize" option in mine. (v 5.1 from XP SP3 install)   :dunno

The fastest way I've found to crop (1-4) and resize (5) in Windows Paint is to:

1. Use Ctrl-A to select all, drag-and-drop photo so the upper left corner is in place.

2. Click outside the selected area or change tools and change back to "select" to bring up the select crosshairs.

3. Use the crosshairs to determine desired size using X,Y coordinates displayed in the lower right.

4. Use Ctrl-E (Attributes) to set the horizontal and vertical size in pixels.

5. Use Ctrl-W (Stretch and Skew) to shrink it as needed.

NOTE: If an area of the image is selected during step 5, that portion will be resized but the overall image size will not change


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #17 on: May 08, 2013, 10:27:33 am »
Got some time in on swap panels here- let me know if you need any input on those.   8)

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2013, 01:42:27 pm »
Got some time in on swap panels here- let me know if you need any input on those.   8)

Oh, u can bet I'll b asking! I just don't know what to ask yet. But do u mean swappable panels, or a modular panel, like I'm intending (aka Doc's modular mame, or weisshaupt's Ghost in the Machine)?

& thanks for the suggestions concerning dealing with pics. Even as I'd made that comment about messing with the camara, I figured it'd b a heckuva lot easier to use a photo editor. Duh!
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #19 on: May 10, 2013, 12:01:08 am »
Okay, more meager accomplishments: Placed another order to GGG, after waiting for some info from RandyT. Once it arrives, I'll have all but 3 of the controls I want, the last being 2 positional rifles (Operation Wolf, Terminator), & a periscope.

...I've never seen a periscope made or modded for a project. Could this b the unique element of my cab?

...It's going just about as slowly as I figured it would. Don't hold your breath, guys.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2013, 01:39:09 am »
It might be easier to make a separate cab for periscope games.   :dunno

Factors to consider:
Lateral forces and how to support the top/bottom (welded frame?)
Pivot points (8", 10" or 12" lazy suzan bearings?)
X-Axis movement only or X- and Y-Axis movement?
Will the periscope be removable?
Height adjustable scope or a step like Battlezone, Sea Wolf, Subroc-3D, etc.?



Be sure to include a pair of trigger sticks for Battlezone.   :w00t


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #21 on: May 10, 2013, 01:41:16 pm »
It might be easier to make a separate cab for periscope games.   :dunno

Factors to consider:
Lateral forces and how to support the top/bottom (welded frame?)
Pivot points (8", 10" or 12" lazy suzan bearings?)
X-Axis movement only or X- and Y-Axis movement?
Will the periscope be removable?
Height adjustable scope or a step like Battlezone, Sea Wolf, Subroc-3D, etc.?

Be sure to include a pair of trigger sticks for Battlezone.   :w00t

All your points r well taken. I doubt I'm going to have room/money for another cab. Certainly H' & I have the room right now, but 1 of the ideas I'm seriously considering to keep us afloat is to rent out the basement--then we're gonna b hurting for space. This is kinduv a 1 shot deal, which is why I'm shooting so high. The periscope was an old thot that managed to get past my inner censor & into the post before I could catch it. I really haven't done enuf work on the idea. I had imagined something removable (modular). ...I suppose a welded frame would probably b the way to go...something that would be attached via some kinduv quick release...I'd originally 1/4 conceived a hood-like affair that would hang over the top of the cab, but the lcd marquee I want will b in the way...& on top of making sure its secure & functional, I still want to make it & the cab look good...well, back to the drawing board. :dunno

Battlezone--I loved that game & it just isn't the same without your face pressed into that scope, watching that ghostly green field & the sweep of the radar...damn, I've gotta make it happen somehow. & those trigger sticks--what'd u end up using? I'm considering a top-fire mod for my u360's combined with a modded grip (I'm also considering a mod to screw a Tron handle onto a u360).

But more immediately, I gotta figure out what went wrong with my GGG order. My credit card was denied, for reasons I can't imagine. Later...
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #22 on: May 10, 2013, 01:45:16 pm »
Subscribed.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #23 on: May 10, 2013, 11:26:46 pm »
Got some more cleaning/organizing done of the workroom done. Should have been done years ago.  :banghead: I'm getting a big small stuff organizer soon--something to sort all these damn screws, nails, bolts, nuts, washers, etc., etc., etc., & a board & hooks to organize all these tools--this's nuts.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #24 on: May 10, 2013, 11:37:37 pm »
I can't find Nephs quote of another great poster here but it goes along these lines...

”Cleaning up your workspace does not constitute an update”

Now welcome to the club you're officially a cab builder having received this verbal spanking.

Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #25 on: May 11, 2013, 12:45:38 am »
I suppose a welded frame would probably b the way to go...something that would be attached via some kinduv quick release...I'd originally 1/4 conceived a hood-like affair that would hang over the top of the cab, but the lcd marquee I want will b in the way...& on top of making sure its secure & functional, I still want to make it & the cab look good...well, back to the drawing board. :dunno
I figured that you were talking about removable panels, so design a removable panel with a superstructure that's a few inches shorter than the marquee.

This thread on electric panel latches might give you some good ideas.

An H-shaped frame on the right and left with a rectangle on the top that has the upper lazy susan bearing bolted/welded to it.

The lower bearing can rest on the CP.

Leave enough distance from the periscope to the monitor so you can see properly.

You can probably add a 1/4" clear polycarb/acrylic sheet as a cross-brace on the back for stability.

Handle on the top near the front to lift the panel out + skids on the underside of the panel to avoid damaging the underside + a 6' USB cable to connect the encoders on the panel to the system.

1/8" hardboard skin is lightweight and will allow artwork with submarine/tank controls/indicators to cover the superstructure and make it all purdy-like.

those trigger sticks--what'd u end up using?



You can get them at Paradise (Import Flight Stick) or Ultimarc (MiniGrip).

The LS-32 switch mod is a nice little addition -- you may need to tune the lever arms a bit for proper response, but the clickiness is greatly reduced.

Seimitsu LS-32 and Zippyy Joystick upgrade kit


Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.

Naw. . . he's in the design phase, so it's sketch time.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2013, 11:04:47 pm »
I can't find Nephs quote of another great poster here but it goes along these lines...

”Cleaning up your workspace does not constitute an update”

Now welcome to the club you're officially a cab builder having received this verbal spanking.

Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.
:lol Yeah, I thot so too. I wanted to post SOMETHING, so that it would keep me moving. But yeah, I'm wasting time & space by posting that crap. Next post will b of things screwed together, or google sketchups.

By the way, I DID do some pretty good (read: overly thorough) sketchups of several of the controls I've bought. All in the warehouse, under the name 'lcmgadgets' for anyone interested.

& again, thanks for the ideas. I'll b checking them out. Keep 'em comin'.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #27 on: May 12, 2013, 11:22:21 pm »
Does anyone know if the periscopes in those dedicated cabs (sea wolf, battle shark, sea wolf II, sub hunter, etc,) were simple positional (2 or 4 way) or analog controllers? I seem to recall that the battle shark yoke turned in 4 directions like the Star Wars yoke, but that the cross hair moved across the screen at the same speed no matter how far or hard u cranked those controls.

I'm looking carefully at that periscope on Battle Shark. That doesn't look too hard to replicate. Maybe some big pvc pipe....
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #28 on: May 13, 2013, 12:28:33 am »
Verified via the Input settings menu on MAME:

Battle Shark - 2-axis, analog (Yes, it does limit the speed your crosshairs can move)
Depthcharge / Sub Hunter - No periscope, 1-axis, not analog
Destroyer (Atari 1977) - Y-axis analog, 2 buttons (depth charge, speed)
Sea Wolf - 1-axis, analog
Sea Wolf II - 2 single-axis analog periscopes
Subroc-3D - 2-axis, not analog
Turbo Sub - 2-axis, analog (Used a SW yoke)

Other submarine-type games to consider: (copied from one of the .dat files)
Invinco / Deep Scan
Minesweeper
Subs
Wolf Pack
Fire One
HeliFire
N-Sub
Navarone
Polaris
Tomahawk 777
Battle of Atlantis
Mariner
Battle Cruiser M-12
Submarine
Up Scope
The Deep
Sauro
Guts n' Glory (Depth Charge + Submarine)
In The Hunt


Scott
« Last Edit: May 13, 2013, 12:30:20 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #29 on: May 13, 2013, 10:18:44 pm »
Thanks, Scott! 1 of these days, I'm really gonna study MAME & figure it out. I use it, but I really learned only enuf to get it to run the games, capture some video, & that was it.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #30 on: May 13, 2013, 11:10:02 pm »
Just snag a GUI version of MAME like MAMEUIFX, progetto snaps art files, and history.dat+mameinfo.dat.

The GUI makes it easy to search for games, see parent/clone groups, read the history.dat info and view pics.

Protip: On View - Show Pictures, deselect History and on the Interface Option menu, Show History on Tab = Snapshot.  This puts the snapshot and history together on one tab.


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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #31 on: August 26, 2013, 10:05:54 am »
Sigh.

It's been more than 3 months, & my hint of work space still isn't ready yet. Sorry I've wasted your time, guys. I know I'll get back to this eventually, but a snail's pace would b rocketing for me. & I've got some other priorities I've got to take care of first, like getting my basement overhauled & converted into an apartment, & rented out, before we run out of money. & there will always b all the issues involving my son--the one staring me in the face right now is if he can make it in public school this time, or if I'm going to have to continue/ramp up the homeschooling.

So don't expect much here. I'll never come anywhere near matching the pace of those of u who have actually managed to complete anything. & yeah, I could ramp my plans down; shoot for something a bit easier to accomplish, but I know I'll feel like I copped out if I shoot for anything less than the big pretty cab with the rotating monitor, LCD marquee, modular control panels, & lit up t-molding.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #32 on: August 26, 2013, 11:30:33 am »
I know I'll feel like I copped out if I shoot for anything less than the big pretty cab with the rotating monitor, LCD marquee, modular control panels, & lit up t-molding.

Ask yourself this- do you need all that to play the games you like? If you don't, it's all extra. You don't need to feel let down if you decide those things aren't necessary.  :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #33 on: August 26, 2013, 11:34:47 am »
Ask yourself this- do you need all that to play the games you like? If you don't, it's all extra. You don't need to feel let down if you decide those things aren't necessary.  :cheers:

^^^^ This. Do you want to enjoy some arcade games with classic controls or do you want to build a huge show piece? Both are valid endeavors, but don't get them mixed up if you don't need to.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #34 on: August 26, 2013, 12:23:56 pm »
Griff brings up good points. Decide what you want it to be and commit. There's a lot a great showcase builds here, but there are also a ton of outstanding simple classic builds that would be at home in any arcade or showplace (Echo Base always comes to mind is and probably my favorite scratch build of all time). Make what you want, not what you think will impress others- it's not an arms race.  ;D
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #35 on: October 01, 2013, 12:24:55 pm »
Okay, I'm back. Sorry about the whine earlier. Work room ready, & I've started modding the Star Wars yoke & dual strike pcb. Had a heckuva time getting the wires de soldered off the dual strike--may want to drill out the remaining crap in at least 1 hole for a clean insert of the new wire. Got the wire I need (I have a lot of 18awg but needed finer for this). Didn't realize it wasn't copper stranded until I started, but it soldered nice to the pot & I'm going to go ahead & use it unless someone thinks that's a big mistake.

Do you want to enjoy some arcade games with classic controls or do you want to build a huge show piece? Both are valid endeavors, but don't get them mixed up if you don't need to.

Both, but with a more serious lean toward playability, customizable controls, & the ability to play a lot of games. Thanks for this, guys. I'm recommitted. & a reminder/warning--this is gonna b 1 long, glacially slow build. Not a 1st for me--I once spent 2 years completing a 'kvasar lucid dream induction mask'--a project that most of you could complete in a week.

I'll post some pics of my 1st moves later--gotta go pick up my son.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #36 on: October 01, 2013, 10:22:41 pm »
Omg, I've got some actual progress to report.

Using 1UP's wonderful write up on the dual strike hack, I disassembled--okay, okay, I actually disassembled it years ago (literally)--1 of my 2 dual strikes, desoldered the pot connections to it (using braid & wiggling, &, as 1UP points out, its still a tough job), and soldered wire to the 2 new pots I received from...I think it was arcadefixit. For a change, the soldering went well & quickly. No burnt fingers or damaged parts (I think--I'm going to test the pots again before I install them), the solder melted & flowed smoothly, my joints look good, & I only got a little flux on my hands. As I've said many times, I hate soldering. I do everything right--I clean my parts, tin the wire, use flux everywhere, & clean my soldering tip (with sal ammoniac, even), & yet its always a struggle for me. Partly, I think, because I use lead-free solder.

I like heat shrink tubing, too. I have 2 diameters on the pots--a narrow one for the wire, & a wider one overlapping the wire & covering the contacts on the pots themselves.

I've soldered the pots to the opposite ends of the same coils of wire (they're 10' long each, I think. Or is it 5'?). This is another thing I've always struggled with--where do u cut the wire? I've ended up with unwanted loops in the past, or butt connectors or soldered in xtra lengths of wire to make up for using too much/not enuf. I suppose I could solve a lot of that by using terminal blocks between the dual strike pcb & the pots...but does anyone have any ideas?

(Oh, & yes, thats a print out of 1UP's hack in the top pic, & an ipad with another image from the same wonderful site in the other. I've learned to constantly double check against what you're stealing/working from)
« Last Edit: October 01, 2013, 10:28:45 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #37 on: October 02, 2013, 09:45:57 am »
I like the colorful heat shrink.  I always just use black but I need to see if I can pick up some colors. 

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #38 on: October 02, 2013, 12:17:42 pm »
Somehow I thought it necessary to use the same colour heat shrink as the wire  :dunno. Now I like clear, partly because someone here described a cheap but purdy wire labelling method using clear--I've forgotten how, but I think if I look thru my past posts...
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #39 on: October 02, 2013, 12:50:13 pm »
It was here in DaOld Man's A Little Rage thread.

He used a shrink wrap printer, I suggested a paper label secured with scotch tape.

Print the label on paper, trim to size and affix using scotch tape.

Leave enough of a header to get a solid grip (>1 wrap) on the wire then wrap tightly for 1 or 2 layers more and trim with scissors so the tail ends up opposite of the printing and neat.

When printing and trimming, ensure that the paper won't wrap around so far that it covers the text.

You can also do this flag-style, but that way is more likely to snag.

Pic shows 14 point Times New Roman text and 22 gauge wire.




Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #40 on: October 02, 2013, 02:32:35 pm »
Thank you! Wouldn't u know I had just found & was rereading that post. I think I might try a paper label under a piece of clear heat shrink tubing. I'm going on a lot about this, but I know I've struggled with the 'this 1 goes here, that 1 goes there!' issue in the past, & my solutions then (masking tape flag torn from the roll with the label scribbled on with a sharpie) were ugly.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #41 on: October 03, 2013, 10:59:08 pm »
Well, I've had my first mishap, unless someone has some idea how to fix this. Don't know if it'll show in the pics, but, as warned by 1UP, getting the pot off the dual strike board is tough & tricky. After I desoldered as best I could, & wiggled & pulled & cursed the thing off, the stubs of 2 of the contacts were left on the board. I tried to desolder these--no luck. Finally I took my teeniest drill (I think thats its official diameter--I forget what it is, but yes, its as small as the holes) & drilled them out. I was worried the extensive desoldering had lifted the centermost (white wire) trace off the board, & after I drilled it I was even more sure. & then I discovered I couldn't get the new wire to solder to it. I'm pretty sure I've pooched it--unless, like I say, someone has an idea. Time to break out my 2nd dual strike board (& go looking for another 1) & try not to wreck it.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #42 on: October 03, 2013, 11:18:52 pm »
If the 2nd hack doesn't work, you might want to try an Atmel ATMega32U4 board like the one in my Analog KADESTICK.

I've been trying to test a second 32U4 board with a SW yoke, but have had some problems loading the hex for some reason. :angry:  :banghead:


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #43 on: October 04, 2013, 09:18:15 am »
Thanks Scott. Yeah, when I started collecting parts for this project way back when, analog boards either didn't exist yet, or were still so rare & new that the dual strike hack was still the only way to go, otherwise...

Uhhh, what does 'loading the hex mean'?  ???
« Last Edit: October 04, 2013, 09:20:16 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #44 on: October 04, 2013, 12:09:12 pm »
what does 'loading the hex mean'?  ???
The firmware that defines and controls the various board functions uses hexadecimal encoding.

The source code is compiled into a firmware update file using the extension .HEX.

The .HEX file is then used to program the firmware on the board. (a.k.a. "Loading the hex.")

KADE Loader does this behind the scenes, but the 32U4 board and Analog Firmware aren't included (. . . yet ;D) so for now, you have to use the FLIP program to load the hex.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #45 on: October 04, 2013, 12:45:54 pm »
I figured it was about programming. I actually slapped together (literally--during the 15 minutes that I used it (once ever) & then disassembled it I had to avoid breathing on it too hard to avoid shorting exposed wires) a pic programmer (for the...16f84? Does that sound right?) once for my many times mentioned kvasar dream mask project. I know next to nothing about writing programs (got the kvasar's program online) & I'd have to start from scratch if I had to build another programmer. Found an easier way anyway--a local guy with a programmer that load the chips for a cup of coffee (I have to provide the program).
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #46 on: October 04, 2013, 01:39:07 pm »
I considered buying a hardware PIC programmer, but the AVR boards with USB headers can be programmed via free software like FLIP -- free software wins.  ;D


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #47 on: October 05, 2013, 09:00:58 pm »
Free? That's my critical sell point, too.  ;D
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #48 on: October 09, 2013, 12:37:10 pm »
Okay, moving right along in the slowest build on the forum, I have progress to report! After ruining the 1st dual strike board, I did what I should have the first time; I went looking for information on how to desolder parts from a pcb properly. Of course, I found tons of information. & if anyone out there would like to hear in greater detail what I learned, I'd b glad to post it at request, but otherwise I'm going to assume that everyone else on this forum knows more about soldering/desoldering than I do, and don't need it repeated it here.

Anyway, after an hour and a half of careful, painstaking application of what I learned, I successfully desoldered the pot off the dual's board, & soldered new wires to it. Here are a couple of pics. Please forgive my soldering, I thoroughly checked the joints & they are good (I used the 'twist & tug' test, and followed up with a rigorous finger wagging combined with an application of warnings concerning what fate might befall the joints should they decide to fail later, thoroughly peppered with all the appropriate colourful expletives) despite the massive amount of solder I used on 2 of them, & the much smaller amount on the 3rd 1. Have I mentioned how much I hate soldering?
« Last Edit: October 11, 2013, 01:42:09 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #49 on: October 12, 2013, 11:20:38 am »
Soldered wires to 1 of the new microswitches for the yoke last night. Yay. Will post a pic later.

...man, this's gonna take a lonnnggg time. Maybe once I get the basement reno completed, & assuming H' continues to do okay at school, I'll have a little more time to commit to this.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #50 on: October 15, 2013, 08:14:29 pm »
Completed soldering of all 4 microswitches. Yes, thats a bare patch on that 1 black wire, covered with heat shrink tubing. I had to cut a wire already soldered because I'd made it way too long, & solder the cut to the wire already soldered to the other switch. Sigh. I'd think given how slowly I have to move on this project, that I'd at least avoid these obvious dumb mistakes.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #51 on: October 16, 2013, 12:44:37 pm »
There's no dumb mistakes.  Just development opportunities.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #52 on: October 16, 2013, 02:10:19 pm »
There's no dumb mistakes.  Just development opportunities.

AJ

I need to print this for my barn.  Had one of those days yesterday.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #53 on: October 17, 2013, 10:45:53 am »
Yes, YES! It's similar to something I've said to new roller skaters who've compared their ability disparagingly to mine (& the weird thing is, I'm completely serious--they can b clumsy as hell, but if they look like they're having the time of their lives, I enjoy watching them skate); they're not poor skaters, they've got 'infinite potential'.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #54 on: October 21, 2013, 11:09:31 pm »
Started on soldering the other wires that connect to the dual strike's board. Got 2 done, & heat shrinked. Yay for me. :blank:
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #55 on: October 24, 2013, 10:39:06 pm »
Banner night for me. Got a whole hour after I put H' to bed to work. Got the remaining wires (4) soldered/head shrinked to the dual strike. Everything went smooth.

I think I'll temporarily wire the pots to the circuit, plug it into the computer & test to make sure it survived the mod. & its time to work out my wire labelling system.

...maybe soldering isn't so bad.

« Last Edit: October 24, 2013, 10:42:23 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #56 on: October 27, 2013, 11:49:54 pm »
Temporarily attached the pots & microswitches to the 'strike's board, & plugged it into my windows 7 machine just to see what'd happen. The computer saw the dual strike, & the 4 micro's registered as hat switches, but I couldn't get anything out of the pots. I think I'll hook the multimeter up to the pots tomorrow & test them (should have done this at the start...hmmm, I probably did, & have simply forgotten--that's my story & I'm sticking to it). I imagine the pots issue is simply a windows 7 thing--anybody know anything about this?
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« Reply #57 on: October 29, 2013, 11:26:19 pm »
Dual strike board pretty much ready to go. I labeled the wires, wishing I'd done the pots before I'd soldered them--I found I couldn't get my heat shrink to slip over 3 wires at once to do the pots, so I used a little hot glue to adfix the labels. Also cut the extra unneeded wires off the board & hot glued the ends. Hot glue is definitely my friend.

Crap. Forgot to multimeter the pots, just to be sure they're okay. Will do next, & assuming they're okay, I'll start reassembling the yoke.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2013, 11:29:51 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #58 on: November 01, 2013, 11:28:26 pm »
Checked the pots, tested the microswitches, & reassembled the handles of the yoke with the new switches in place. Was gonna take a pic of the handle lying open with the switches, springs, trigger & thumb buttons in place, but after 2 desperate searches for runaway springs, I decided to just get the damn covers on & then take a pic.

Which raises a question I've never asked: How to prevent runaway springs. I think I heard someone once say work with a cover over u & the work, & I've tried working in a box. My tenant, who is a mechanic & also accustomed to runaway parts, says what he does, when appropriate, is to put a little vaseline on a potential runaway. If it drops or springs away, it tends to stick wherever it lands. Anyway, heres the pic:
« Last Edit: November 01, 2013, 11:32:50 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #59 on: November 01, 2013, 11:34:47 pm »
& for everyone's entertainment, heres a pic of amateur roller derby blocker Pia Mess, number 247 of the Derby Divas, who was seen training the night of Oct. 31st at my favourite rink:
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #60 on: November 01, 2013, 11:37:27 pm »
Does anyone have a good technique, or know of a tool, that can remove/insert this type of clip? The yoke has 3 of them, & 1 is dangerously close to 1 of the 60 tooth wheels.

« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 05:27:07 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #61 on: November 04, 2013, 11:57:32 pm »
Does anyone have a good technique, or know of a tool, that can remove/insert this type of clip? The yoke has 3 of them, & 1 is dangerously close to 1 of the 60 tooth wheels.
Since we're still waiting for Saint to fix the BYOAC wiki logins (14+ months, but who's counting  ;D), Spoot set up a functioning wiki and I loaded the text and pics from the SW yoke rebuild page here.

Feel free to add any text or pics that you might want to contribute.

Insert a large common screwdriver between the belly of the c-clip and the shaft -- twist the screwdriver to push the clip away from the shaft and be sure the "downrange" area is prepped in case the clip launches.

A pair of needlenose pliers can hold the clip straight whole you reinstall it.



In order to reach the clip between the 60 tooth and the front frame next to the right handle, you'll need to:
- Desolder/remove the wires that run to the handle switches (one of your earlier posts looks like you've already got that covered with the wires and handles removed)
- Remove the crossbar that holds the vertical centering springs
- Remove the clip by the left handle
- Remove the right handle from the shaft (looks like you've already done that)
- Slide the shaft to the left
- Use a screwdriver to remove the clip

Between this and the rebuild entry link above, you should be on your way to getting your yoke back up and running again.   :cheers:


Scott
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 02:16:28 am by PL1 »

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« Reply #62 on: November 05, 2013, 01:07:14 am »
Thanks PL1. I downloaded that disassembly procedure from the wiki some weeks ago--its very thorough.

I managed to get the rings out & back in again--twice since I last posted, & without the use of pliers or a screwdriver. As u suspected, I've already completely disassembled this thing, replaced the microswitches & reassembled the handles (a terrifying experience involving searching for launched tiny springs--twice). Then I thought to look at the maintenance technician's manual for the yoke (I think I downloaded it from the KLOV site) & noticed the thoughtfully included very thorough assembly/disassembly instructions (they even detail what size of wrenchs to use) & started following them (sigh).

First problem I encountered was that the shaft didn't want to slide back through the bearings. I forced it with a rubber mallet, got the springs & large gear on, & pushed those troublesome clips back on with a handy wooden tool designed specifically for that job...not! (seen below in the pic...yes, its the end of a wooden paint brush). I then realized that that shaft had to rotate fairly freely, & it certainly wasn't. I then remembered the tool I'd used the 1st time I'd removed those clips--a hook tool, shown in the pic below, with a cloth over the assembly to prevent launching. Prying against the shaft, they came out easily (yay!). I tapped the shaft back out, then went at the inside of the bearings with some emery cloth until the shaft rotated smoothly in them. Then I cleaned the whole thing up thoroughly, oiled the bearings as per instructions in the manual, slid the shaft back in, replacing the gear & springs along the way, & remounted the clips. Yay! Next step--replace the screw mounting the gear to the shaft. But where the hell was the threaded hole in the shaft?! Finally I found it--on the end opposite where the gear was. The manual does NOT warn u to make sure that hole is on the same side as the gear. Get the hook back out, pull the clips off again, slide the shaft back out, reverse it, slide it back in, remount gear, springs, & clips--all without incident. Screwed down the big gear. Whew!

Then on to the 1st potentiometer. That went fairly smoothly. I noticed right away when I'd tightened the nut that held it to the bracket that the lock nut had fallen off during installation. So I took it back off & put the washer where it belonged. & there was a tense moment when I thought my hex wrench wasn't going to reach the screw used to mount the 14 tooth gear to the pot shaft. But it went on in the end. 12:30--got to b up at 7:30--time for bed.

So heres a pic of the assembly at this point, with my 2 handy clip removing/remounting tools. Something with a flatter end than that paint brush would have been better, but the fact that it was wood & thin enough to slide easily between the big gear and the bearing gave me some confidence that if something did go wrong, I had an improved chance of not damaging that precious gear.

« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 01:16:34 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #63 on: November 05, 2013, 02:07:04 am »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

Reoriented (and trimmed?), it would work perfectly at the end of step 20.


Scott
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 02:44:40 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #64 on: November 05, 2013, 08:26:31 am »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

Reoriented (and trimmed?), it would work perfectly at the end of step 20.


Scott

I'm a little flattered! Of course I will contribute in any way I can; please use that pic & any other as u c fit. Want me to post another 1, sans tools?

How noobish should the wiki b? Should u include the suggestion to emery-out stubborn bearings before installing the shaft for 'tards like me?
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« Reply #65 on: November 05, 2013, 03:56:41 pm »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

I'm a little flattered! Of course I will contribute in any way I can; please use that pic & any other as u c fit. Want me to post another 1, sans tools?
Uploaded pic and updated text to mention the hook tool in the pic.

Are the pic and revised text OK?

How noobish should the wiki b? Should u include the suggestion to emery-out stubborn bearings before installing the shaft for 'tards like me?
Feel free to add suggestions, tips, or photos you think will help the next guy.   ;D


Scott

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« Reply #66 on: November 06, 2013, 12:35:26 am »
Yeah, the pic looks good, & the text is as correct as can b. Cool!

I've noticed a couple of other differences between the manual & my yoke--small things like a bolt that required a different size of hex wrench than the manual mentioned, &, more worrisomely, the collar that the shaft from the steering assembly slides thru to mount it to the handle assembly--the manual claims there r 3 threaded holes in the collar & shaft that each require a bolt--my yoke has the 3 holes, but the bolt requires a larger wrench than described, & there is only 1 bolt. Some lazy tech left the other 2, I suppose. 2 of the holes are in very difficult to reach places anyway, & given the diameter of the bolt, the fact that its threaded thru the collar & into the shaft, & finally that its not in a spot where it will xperience much of the kind of pressure that would put strain on it, I'm tempted to leave it as is.

With that in mind, I've got the steering assembly put back together with the new pot mounted, & the 2 assemblies attached to each other again.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2013, 03:49:38 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #67 on: November 09, 2013, 01:10:50 am »
Please tell me you aren't planning on routing the wires for the rear pot where, over time, gravity will tend to pull them into the gears.   :o


Scott

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« Reply #68 on: November 09, 2013, 11:00:50 pm »
Good god, no. I haven't gotten to tying them off/mounting them yet, but I'm not taking any chances. They'll b tied & fastened safely away where gravity's evil work will only help hold them away from those gears. But thanks for pointing out the problem.

Got 1 handle mounted. Why only 1? Ever notice how instructions say 'slide handle onto shaft', or 'guide handle wires thru shaft to the nearest holes into steering assembly', & then, when u go to do it, u find the powder coat on your handles requires u to sand down their insides for 20 minutes before they'll slide onto that shaft, & that those holes in the shaft that the wires have to go thru have a burr on them that shreds the jackets on the wires, requiring some heat shrink tubing repair, & more sanding/filing to get that burr off? I love thorough instructions, but I hate it when they miss the problems that almost inevitably develop.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2013, 11:03:33 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #69 on: November 11, 2013, 11:30:29 pm »
Both handles mounted, wires tied off & run thru the shaft, x gear & clip immediately behind it removed so I could move the large washer I'd put between them to the RIGHT spot--between the clip & the bearing (1 of the pics from the manual made it look like it went where I had it at 1st  :angry:), & temporary flags attached to the wires on the exit side of the shaft to tell me who's who when I'm ready to attach them to the dual strike's pcb.

Caught another mistake. The x pot wasn't centered properly--when I turned the yoke on the x axis I saw the bumpers didn't make contact in 1 direction before I reached the end of the pot's turn  :o --fixed that!

...those grips feel darn sweet. It'll b great to race down the Death Star's trench again. Reached round 22 back when (saw a guy on round 100 once--no bull). I'm gonna beat that...
« Last Edit: November 11, 2013, 11:51:10 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #70 on: November 12, 2013, 11:16:27 pm »
Tested the yoke on 2 machines; an XP & a Windows 7. Both saw the dual strike, & picked up the triggers & thumb buttons, but neither responded to the pots at all. Supposedly the dual strike is compatible with XP, but why aren't the pots registering? I tested the pots before assembly & they read fine.

Also, enjoy this photo of  'xtra parts' left over from the yoke's reassembly. The 1's in the lower left corner I can account for, but the 1's on the right--maybe I got some stuff mixed in from elsewhere, but I doubt it...my boarder is a mechanic, he assured me that this happens with cars all the time...(yikes!)
« Last Edit: November 12, 2013, 11:21:54 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #71 on: November 13, 2013, 12:29:48 am »
Supposedly the dual strike is compatible with XP, but why aren't the pots registering? I tested the pots before assembly & they read fine.

Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #72 on: November 13, 2013, 03:19:42 pm »
Nice progress lcmgadgets!

I shall be following this! 8)
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #73 on: November 14, 2013, 09:52:33 am »
Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?

Crap. So this isn't just an XP/7 issue. I'll try to get around to testing this today. I DID test the pots before installation, can't recall exactly what I got but I must have been happy with the results then... :dunno

Nice progress lcmgadgets!

I shall be following this! 8)

Thanks. I have very little time to work on this, but I try to get even 15 minutes a day. I can use all the encouragement I can get. I know from a past project (non arcade related) that I can get it done this way, however frustrating it can sometimes b to c others racing by. Also, when u have so little time, even small set backs, like this pot mystery, can b xtra frustrating.

You're going to b following for a lonnnggg time, then.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 09:54:30 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #74 on: November 14, 2013, 12:05:27 pm »
You're going to b following for a lonnnggg time, then.

 ;D I'll make sure my future retirement home as internet then!  ;)
Your are still way ahead of my anyway! 8)
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #75 on: November 14, 2013, 12:08:06 pm »
Where r u at with yours?
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« Reply #76 on: November 14, 2013, 12:16:07 pm »
No wood work yet, I am waiting on a router that I have to loan.
But I am well underway on the software parts, done trimming and categorizing the roms list, settled on a theme and a name and started work on my somewhat gaudy AtomicFE layout.  I also did a temp CP in wood, to the dimensions it will have. It has brought me the knowledge on how to correctly place may button layout on it and how I will wire this thing to the xin-mo (custom rs-45 connectors). The computer is almost ready to go, so it will basically be plug and play when I'm done.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #77 on: November 14, 2013, 12:41:09 pm »
Then, holy inaccurate, batman, you're definitely ahead of me! I've got most of the controls & interfaces I want, a coin door, monitors, old pc, most of the eye candy, lexan, &...I'm sure there's more down there collecting dust, some incomplete google sketch ups, & the basic idea of what I want, but the only physical work I've completed is on this yoke!

Have u posted your project?

...okay, just found it. Cool!
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 12:43:06 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #78 on: November 14, 2013, 02:46:49 pm »
Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?
Crap. So this isn't just an XP/7 issue. I'll try to get around to testing this today. I DID test the pots before installation, can't recall exactly what I got but I must have been happy with the results then... :dunno
I'm not sure if it's hardware or software.

I figured you may have installed the drivers (if needed?) and checked out the dual strike before you started the hack, which would eliminate software.   :dunno

All it takes is one bad solder joint to mess up the whole axis.

By testing for 5v and ground at the pot, you verify that those connections are good from the board.

By testing the wiper (white wire) at the pot you confirm that 5v and ground are good and verify that the pot is working properly which narrows your search down to where the wiper connects to the board.


Scott

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« Reply #79 on: November 14, 2013, 11:58:44 pm »
The pots check out fine on their own. XP & 7 see the dual strike, & recognize it. My W7 laptop claims its got the latest drivers. The thumbs & triggers work fine. On the dual strike's board, though, I'm getting nothing from the x axis...humph! If anything, I would have expected trouble from the y, since its the 1 that has to b soldered right to the board. Y seems fine. Maybe I broke 1 of those small wires I soldered too, or the connector on the board itself is bad...hmmm...played with that connector some, & now the computer doesn't pick up the dual strike at all! I have the feeling she's dead, Jim. I killed it. :-[

...YAY! I guess that means I'll just have to invest in...what's the best for my use? I'm trying to get a pair of positional guns, they'll need an analog interface too. I originally thought I might need something for driving controls, too, but I bought an RS wheel & pedals, so that potential problem is solved. What do u guys think.
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« Reply #80 on: November 15, 2013, 01:00:07 am »
...YAY! I guess that means I'll just have to invest in...what's the best for my use? I'm trying to get a pair of positional guns, they'll need an analog interface too.
Get two mini usb cables and two MT-DB-U4 boards -- select ATMEL DFU bootloader, no headers, and 16MHz crystal order options for the boards.

 

Use the KADESTICK 2-axis firmware for the SW Yoke and use the 4-axis firmware for the two positional guns.   :cheers:

If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #81 on: November 15, 2013, 12:52:47 pm »
...I just followed the link u provided for those boards. ...They're only $15 EACH!!  :timebomb: Dual strikes on ebay r running for $20 each now! I could have avoided all that hassle for just $30?!!    :banghead: I figured I was looking at $50+ for an a-pac or u-hid!!

...Okay, rant over, I'm ordering right now. If anyone sees me missing something like this again, please let me know.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #82 on: November 15, 2013, 01:12:05 pm »
If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.

Scott

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #83 on: November 15, 2013, 02:15:29 pm »
If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.

Scott

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Not an official member of the team, but I've been one of the contributors/researchers/beta testers since May 2012 when Jon added Pinball Mode to the AVR Encoder based on my input.

Jon sent me the KADESTICK source (a spinoff of the KADE+ prototype they are working on) and the code changes that add analog inputs so I could do a little tinkering with it/recompile for other AVRs as needed.

Most of the code is way over my head, but I'm slowly making progress figuring out some fairly major changes for another build that needs a composite USB device.


Scott
« Last Edit: November 15, 2013, 02:23:25 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #84 on: November 15, 2013, 04:25:11 pm »
If you're planning on having the yoke and guns plugged in at the same time, we can probably design a 6-axis firmware since the board has more than enough analog input pins.

Scott

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Not an official member of the team, but I've been one of the contributors/researchers/beta testers since May 2012 when Jon added Pinball Mode to the AVR Encoder based on my input.

Jon sent me the KADESTICK source (a spinoff of the KADE+ prototype they are working on) and the code changes that add analog inputs so I could do a little tinkering with it/recompile for other AVRs as needed.

Most of the code is way over my head, but I'm slowly making progress figuring out some fairly major changes for another build that needs a composite USB device.


Scott

Sweet!  :cheers:
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #85 on: November 15, 2013, 04:47:21 pm »
Yeppers, Scott was and is still a major contributer to Kade,  he and I were in on the early design of the Kade and were privy to the beta testing and gave inputs to whats being sold today.  It was very cool to work with Sharp, Bruno, and Degenatrons.
   

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #86 on: November 15, 2013, 09:40:08 pm »
I helped with the rotary part.. kinda lol

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #87 on: November 15, 2013, 11:48:17 pm »
Cool! Then I REALLY know I'm getting the right thing! Thanks, Scott! I can't imagine why I'd want the yoke & 2 guns plugged in at the same time, so I shouldn't need a special unit. It's great to know that it's possible, though.

I didn't order the 2 cables. I'm pretty sure I've got at least 2 of those in my big bin of assorted electronic odds & ends (crap, in other words).

While I'm waiting for those boards to arrive, I think I'll start on refurbishing this old Stern coin door. I want it fully functional. My plan is to use it as a glorified piggy bank (all games 25 cents, of course, as god intended it), with any money collected going into either upgrades or for my son. Or I could start on the computer, but I imagine this project is going to take long enuf to complete that by the time I need it I'll be able to pick up an obsolete Skynet for $50, so I'll leave that for now.  ;D

So here's the door, I bought a disturbingly long time ago. I think I'll get it bead blasted & powder coated by the guy who did the yoke. Xpensive, but u get what u pay for.

The coin mechs look pretty good, & the switches r good. Don't c why I can't get the other metal on the inside of the door blasted. I'd like to replace those bulbs with LEDs if possible. If the wires r good, why shouldn't I keep 'em?

I disassembled it (taking lots of pics & video as I went for reassembly), until, as u can c, all that's left is the lock. I need a long 7/8" socket  :angry:. I tried pliers, channel locks, & a lot of cursing, but that damn thing is on there good. I'll get it tomorrow.

By the way, how do u put text between pics in a post??
« Last Edit: November 18, 2013, 12:45:17 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #88 on: November 19, 2013, 08:07:05 pm »
Got the lock off with a nail punch & hammer (I'm replacing the lock anyway, & I didn't damage the door). Cleaned up the 'quarter' inserts, & used some novus polish to remove some scratches. They came out nice.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #89 on: November 22, 2013, 11:33:12 pm »
Cleaned up the plastic watchamacallem coin slot thingies--they were filthy & a lot harder to clean than I thought they would b. Completed the rust removal of the other interior parts (other than the coin mechs--they're not rusty (1 of em is mostly plastic)--I'll try a gentle dirt-removal cleaning with them), & started dabbling with spray painting them silver. Recalled what I've read about spray painting--spray past the part, start with the toughest edges, spray the wide spaces last, & several light coats rather than 1 thick one. Came out looking pretty good.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #90 on: November 30, 2013, 09:33:05 pm »
Some of the parts near the end of painting. I'm using a chrome-finish like paint for the (nearly) visible parts behind the coin return (the 2 parts on the right). Clear coating too. Damn thing should b just about indestructible by the time I'm done. I'm also told the door & frame pieces have been blasted & powder coated--pick up tomorrow. I'm told they look good--I should hope so as its costing me $110.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #91 on: December 08, 2013, 07:54:25 pm »
Painting done, bead blasting & powder coating done. &, with the help of the many pics I took while disassembling this thing, I got it reassembled. Looks good. Except for the loss of the Stern decal. I think I'll put some custom artwork where it was.

...I don't know how these pics got posted upside down... :dunno
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #92 on: December 08, 2013, 09:58:52 pm »
sweet, better than new

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #93 on: December 09, 2013, 02:25:24 am »
...By the way, how do u put text between pics in a post??

I use a Flickr account to host all my images then put them in place with the IMG tag when creating my posts. Flickr also gives me options to chose what size of image i want to show and generates a link for me. Its also free, which is a plus.  and you can do minor edits like rotation so you don't end up posting one upside down. :)  Just drag and drop them into the flickr upload page. Easy.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #94 on: December 09, 2013, 07:09:43 am »
I use a Flickr account to host all my images

And what happens when [insert photo hosting site] moves your photos to another server, wrongly deletes your account, changes their terms of service, or goes out of business?  What if the acount is hacked, you forget your password, exceed your monthly bandwith allowance for the site, you/wife/kids accidently delete the pics, or you decide you don't need those old build photos any more?   :banghead:

The photo documentation of a number of great builds has been lost this way.

A little more effort sizing/uploading them to BYOAC ensures that you don't end up turning a great build thread into little more than tantalizing/confusing/frustrating text.

Since you're taking the time to document and share your build experience, please exert the tiny bit more effort to upload at least the key photos to a post in this thread (stickied at the top of "Project Announcements" for your convenience) along with a few key words so you can easily find your pics later.

The only thing to look out for is that you don't accidently link to a thumbnail instead of the full-size image.   ;D

The icon on the toolbar inserts the "img" start and end tags, then you paste the link to your photo between the tags.

The link should look like this: 
Code: [Select]
[img]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249899;image[/img]

Scott
« Last Edit: December 09, 2013, 07:20:50 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #95 on: December 09, 2013, 10:20:03 am »
But wouldn't that create a LOT of storage issues for BYOAC?  There's got to be a gajillion photos.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #96 on: December 09, 2013, 01:09:08 pm »
That's why I take the time to resize and crop mine before uploading.   :cheers:

If Saint didn't want us to upload photos here (within the defined limits), why would he make + sticky the photo thread?

If/when the photo thread gets too large for the database to handle properly, Saint will start another thread. (He's done it before.)

If someone has hundreds of photos of their build, they could easily upload the key ones related to the build text and use links to the Flickr gallery pics for the rest of the shots.

If the Flickr account is ever disabled/deleted, the key pics would still be available.


Scott
« Last Edit: December 09, 2013, 01:11:15 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #97 on: December 09, 2013, 03:58:38 pm »
Should we go back and do that for existing threads?

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #98 on: December 09, 2013, 09:33:07 pm »
/slowly backs out of thread.

/runs.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #99 on: December 10, 2013, 01:01:35 am »
Should we go back and do that for existing threads?
As always, that's up to each poster, but it would be a good idea for people to review their build threads. (if applicable)

Pics showing the stripping and repainting of a rusty coin door frame are no great loss, but I'd hate for future readers to lose the photos of your CP hinge setup, monitor mount, and great wiring on The Blue Pill.

Few other posters have taken good low angle wiring shots like this one that shows an end-view of the euro-style terminal strip and the elevated yellow wire bundle.   :cheers:



[/thread derail]


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #100 on: December 10, 2013, 10:44:34 am »
Wow.  Thanks!  I'll go back and see if I can't upload them.

/hijack

AJ

Should we go back and do that for existing threads?
As always, that's up to each poster, but it would be a good idea for people to review their build threads. (if applicable)

Pics showing the stripping and repainting of a rusty coin door frame are no great loss, but I'd hate for future readers to lose the photos of your CP hinge setup, monitor mount, and great wiring on The Blue Pill.

Few other posters have taken good low angle wiring shots like this one that shows an end-view of the euro-style terminal strip and the elevated yellow wire bundle.   :cheers:



[/thread derail]


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #101 on: December 10, 2013, 10:53:55 pm »
Shoot, I guess I should do that too.

Cleaned up the plastic coin mech (hot soapy water, just as it says on its side) & it works great. Went to have a look at the metal 1, & discovered a screw missing (upper left corner in pic).  :angry: it had to b in there when I took the mech out, & has fallen out & rolled out of sight somewhere. Spent some useless minutes looking for it. Ah well, I c on ebay that these things r cheap, & I've heard several times here that London is the coin op capital of Ontario  :dunno, so I imagine I'll just buy another 1. Then I gotta figure out what I'm gonna do next...

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #102 on: February 11, 2014, 10:17:33 pm »
Okay, Christmas over, New Years done, momentum regathered, & I'm back. Put the lock on the coin door, will look into getting LEDs to replace the bulbs, in the meantime I went back to the 'yoke. Looked at the 2 boards recommended by PL1. Beautiful little things! & I have no idea how to wire them up :-\. Looked over the manual at the manufacturer's site, now I have enough of an idea that I might only fry 2 or 4 before I get one wired up--wrong.
The firmware'll be easy enough to find, I hope. How do I program these things? I have a teeny bit of experience with pic programmers, but no clue about what to do with these.

...guess I'll cut the side winder board off, & go looking for those coin door bulb replacements now...
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #103 on: February 12, 2014, 07:19:32 am »
Looked at the 2 boards recommended by PL1. Beautiful little things! & I have no idea how to wire them up :-\. Looked over the manual at the manufacturer's site, now I have enough of an idea that I might only fry 2 or 4 before I get one wired up--wrong.
The firmware'll be easy enough to find, I hope. How do I program these things?

All answers revealed between the KADESTICK thread, pages 17-19 of the MT-DB-U4 manual, and this yoke pinout.   ;D



The 2-axis firmware is in the first post of the KADESTICK thread under "***HEX File Download Link.***"

I've updated the thread with links and directions for using FLIP to load the firmware/hex file since that was not very clear.   :cheers:


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #104 on: February 12, 2014, 08:33:39 am »
Scott, is this all a wiki entry yet? - the whole kadestick to yoke thing seems to be generating some interest.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #105 on: February 12, 2014, 09:36:44 am »
Scott, is this all a wiki entry yet? - the whole kadestick to yoke thing seems to be generating some interest.

KADESTICK is really just an interim testbed for analog controls in Jon's KADE+ project, just like the AVR Encoder was the predecessor of the KADE.

I've updated the KADESTICK thread with directions on programming the board, included a SW yoke pinout, and posted a link to TwistyWrist.  (TwistyWrist has the best prices on the molex connector and pins needed to connect the yoke harness to the AVR without hacking the harness.  Don't maim for MAME.  ;D)

The KADESTICK thread should be easy enough to follow for anyone wanting to build an inexpensive yoke interface now instead of waiting for the much more versatile and easy-to-customize KADE+.

Jon is almost finished with the prototype KADE+ firmware, so it will be quite a long while before the KADE+ project is ready to go.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #106 on: February 12, 2014, 11:47:09 am »
Thanks PL1. Sorry I have to be spoon fed this stuff. I sure appreciate the help. I see the section you're talking about in the manual now--so glad these boards don't require a dedicated programmer (I suppose I should have guessed that given the mini USB cable connector). I'll print at least that part out, & download the appropriate files.
...Maybe I'll soon be looking at a live test of the yoke (propped on the table & plugged into the laptop--if I mount it on a scrap of particle board so it makes S'Wars remotely playable, that might prove too tempting--I could end up disappearing for a while ;D).
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #107 on: February 12, 2014, 12:06:38 pm »
Nothing to be sorry about, you're helping clarify the process and add information that I had overlooked.  :cheers:


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #108 on: February 12, 2014, 11:16:28 pm »
...I just followed the link u provided for those boards. ...They're only $15 EACH!!  :timebomb: Dual strikes on ebay r running for $20 each now! I could have avoided all that hassle for just $30?!!    :banghead: I figured I was looking at $50+ for an a-pac or u-hid!!
Padhacks are a pain.  Open source solutions are the way to go in this hobby  :)

We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Scott and RaBlack are HUGE contributors to the project.  I'd say they are part of the "team".

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #109 on: February 12, 2014, 11:49:39 pm »
We? Are you a part of the KADE team, too? Just wondering.
Scott and RaBlack are HUGE contributors to the project.  I'd say they are part of the "team".
Thanks for your kind words.   :cheers:

Rod and I are on the JV squad.   :lol


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #110 on: February 14, 2014, 11:39:41 pm »
Alright, alright, I'm an idiot  :banghead:. I've gone over the kadestick thread for an hour now, & I still can't figure out which wire from the yoke connects to which hole on the ATmega's board. Am I missing it somewhere, or am I really this dumb?  :dunno
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #111 on: February 15, 2014, 02:49:30 am »
 

Yoke Pin # - KADESTICK Pin Label
  1  - Button 1
  2  - Button 2
  3  - Button 3
  4  - Button 4
  5  - Analog Wiper 1
  6  - Analog Wiper 2
  9  - 5v for Analog (or the Avcc pin on the left side should also work :dunno -- both provide 5v IIRC)
 10 - Ground (Analog)
 11 - Ground (Buttons)
 12 - Ground (Lower left corner of board -- not labeled/needed for original KADESTICK, but this pin should work fine for the SW yoke frame ground.)


Scott
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 02:54:31 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #112 on: February 15, 2014, 09:13:37 am »
Thanks Scott. Much clearer--I think. I think I was over complicating things. Reminds me of the 1st time I read a circuit schematic; it took me some time to convince myself that I simply had to connect the dots when wiring up the components.

Still some confusion, though.  :dizzy: I don't understand all the focus on the pinout. Wouldn't any connector do, or even directly soldering the board to the yoke (I'm NOT doing that!!) work, as long as u had the right number of connections in the right place?

& what's an 'analog wiper'? Sounds like something that returns analog inputs to 0?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #113 on: February 15, 2014, 04:14:51 pm »
Still some confusion, though.  :dizzy: I don't understand all the focus on the pinout. Wouldn't any connector do, or even directly soldering the board to the yoke (I'm NOT doing that!!) work, as long as u had the right number of connections in the right place?
Making the right connections to the right places is the first reason for the focus on the pinout.

The second reason is that I'm trying to keep the cheapskate chuckle-head noobs from hacking off the molex and soldering the wires straight to the AVR.
Don't maim for MAME!   :soapbox:

What happens if the AVR goes bad? What if they don't finish the build?  What happens when they decide to sell it?

If you don't hack the original harness, the yoke can be easily swapped to/from an original game or removed for maintenance, no problem.

Another reason to keep it original is that Atari used a special wire with more strands which makes the wires more flexible.

Chips4sle sold five NOS SW yoke harnesses on KLOV several years ago.  Those (+ a hydra harness) are the only ones I've found there. (A good replacement for a hacked harness is rare.)

& what's an 'analog wiper'? Sounds like something that returns analog inputs to 0?
Here's a modified pic from Le Chuck's SW Micro build showing the insides of a potentiometer.

The black resistive element is a resistor.

5v on the top tab and ground (0v) on the bottom tab allows you to select a voltage (a.k.a. "potential") between those values.

A wiper arm slides over (wipes across) the surface of the board, making contact between the silver ring in the center and a point on the resistive element.

The contact point is the bump on the right side of the wiper.

When you center the knob, the arm makes contact at the green bar, giving you 2.5 volts on the wiper. (assuming it is a linear pot)

When you turn the knob to the blue bar, you get 4.5 volts on the wiper.

If you reverse the 5v and Gnd tabs, green will still give you 2.5v and blue will give you 0.5v.


Scott
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 04:41:14 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #114 on: February 16, 2014, 10:56:18 am »
A few things have occurred to stupid me--I've been harking on about which wire goes to which connection on the ATMega's board, forgetting that its programmable, so there r some options (duh!).

I've played around with pots for a few years--& yet it never occurred to me that those 3 connections might have specific names  :dizzy:.

Unless I REALLY misunderstand u, that pinout pic is of an original SW yoke molex connector. If that's right, here's the confusion--a pic of the 1 that came with mine:

« Last Edit: February 17, 2014, 09:41:44 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #115 on: February 16, 2014, 05:11:27 pm »
Sorry, Bro.  Looks like someone hacked the harness before you got it.   :badmood:

You'll need to sort out the pin assignments on that connector.

You may also want to restore it to the original pin and connector configuation for future compatibility -- it will only take $5 worth of pins and connectors from TwistyWrist.


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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #116 on: February 17, 2014, 09:40:05 pm »
I'm going to do just that.

Okay, I'll add a confession--I'd already cut off that connector--but it really was the 1 that was there when I bought the yoke.  :dunno I had cut it in such a way that I could reuse it if I could find a mate for it. This way'll b easier & better, I suppose.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #117 on: May 20, 2016, 08:15:34 pm »
Well...
It certainly has been some time since I've posted about my own project. Is it finished? Heck no. About all I've accomplished towards it since my last post about it is I bought a positional gun, & I've added a lot to my sketchup drawing.
But will it be finished? Heck yes.
So what have I been doing? Well, whats holding up things right now is that I'm involved with a group that are working towards creating a roller rink in our city. There hasn't been 1 since the late 80's. Some of u know I got back into roller skating after my wife died, and have become a fanatic. But a lot of us are tired of skating in community centres and dry ice rinks, or going across the border to enjoy the amazing rinks in Michigan. Its time for a rink here again; it hasn't been this popular in years.
So I've been google sketchup'ing our proposed rink, using the building we're considering renting/renovating--if we can get the money. After a number of other avenues we've considered, we've decided to launch a GoFundMe campaign to raise the $125G+ we need to make it happen. The deadline to launch the campaign is August.

After that, I'll be returning to 'Legacy. Stand by.

Oh, & I'll certainly be announcing the GoFundMe campaign in 'Everything Else'; we can use all the help we can get to make this dream come true. Wish us luck.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #118 on: June 28, 2016, 08:26:30 pm »
All the best in your roller rink endeavors.  I got to second base (skin to skin not that over the clothes crap) for the first time in a roller rink.  She was chubby.  The skinny girls didn't have boobs yet.  We were young.  Good times. 

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #119 on: July 02, 2016, 08:57:11 pm »
All the best in your roller rink endeavors.  I got to second base (skin to skin not that over the clothes crap) for the first time in a roller rink.  She was chubby.  The skinny girls didn't have boobs yet.  We were young.  Good times.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #120 on: July 21, 2017, 11:25:38 pm »
Moving right along, I completed the google sketchup of Legacy. As mentioned, it's pretty much a modified clone of weisshaupt's Ghost in the Machine Mark II. The major changes are the monitor in place of a marquee (thanks to Randy T for inspiration on how to make a standard monitor look like 2 'short' monitors--I looked into buying a non standard short & wide monitor, but as some of you probably know, they cost more than $900), a rear-view monitor to display the controls needed for a chosen game, a working coin door, and the fact that the other control panels will have to be stored elsewhere--there simply isn't room inside the cab.
....crap, now that this is done, I actually have to start building the thing...unless...ahh! Time to look at the software!

...okay, its actually not all psychedelic like the image suggests. It only converts to this when I try to export it as a png or jpg file. Anyone have any idea how to fix this?
« Last Edit: July 21, 2017, 11:53:50 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #121 on: July 22, 2017, 05:23:07 pm »
Oh boy, software....

As I began my research, in my imagination, I wandered up over the hill to have my first look on the neat, ordered and labeled garden of relevant software in the valley below. I realized as I approached the hill that it was unlikely to be a neat garden--probably more like a semi-civilized meadow or light woods with signed foot and bike paths.

I should have known better. An endless jungle of swamps, quicksand, thorns and brush lay before me, interspersed with signs and bill boards, most of them in languages I can't read, sometimes with contradictory information, and few in complete agreement on anything. How the hell am I gonna sort through all this?

Theres so much to consider....

First I wondered about the operating system. I have some help from a computer genius friend. I told him I want to run Mame, Daphne, maybe some of the console emulators, and a few old DOS (Doom, Duke Nukem 3D) and old Windows 98 games (Dungeon Keeper 2). He recommended Linux. Its been a loonnng time since I studied or used linux, so I suspect this is gonna be a long learning curve.

And I wondered about the front end. After looking at a long list of titles, I wondered if there might be a survey of opinions. I found one, here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84933.360/viewresults.html
Going by it, I'll try Hyperspin first.

Also, I'm still stuck on whether to stick with the obsolete clunker desktop I've been hanging onto for this project, buying something newer & more gaming dedicated (I could play more up to date games then (Elite Dangerous!), I suppose), or go even farther away from my original ideas--a raspberry pi build.

I welcome all ideas and opinions. So many of you know so much more than I do about this, I'm gonna need lotsa help.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2017, 05:39:47 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #122 on: July 22, 2017, 07:15:31 pm »
....hmmm...linux has changed! In my day WINE was still in development. This looks like it'll be the way to go, and much easier than I feared  :)
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #123 on: July 24, 2017, 04:27:49 pm »
Huh.  ???

I thought for sure that someone would jump on me about 'moving right along...'.

Tough audience, I guess... ;D
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #124 on: July 24, 2017, 04:38:06 pm »
Its's hard to get excited about a project that was announced in 2013 and there hasn't been even a hint of hot saw to wood action.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #125 on: July 24, 2017, 07:30:41 pm »
Its's hard to get excited about a project that was announced in 2013 and there hasn't been even a hint of hot saw to wood action.

He took some time off to pursue his roller disco dreams...

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #126 on: July 25, 2017, 01:35:57 am »
Its's hard to get excited about a project that was announced in 2013 and there hasn't been even a hint of hot saw to wood action.
:embarassed:
Very true, very true. I warned people when I started that this would be a very slow moving project, but I didn't think it'd go this slow! And now that I'm back, I'm finding it hard to pick it back up.

Also...I'm chicken :embarassed:. I got enough cash set aside to finish this project, IF I don't mess up & have to redo too many things. I gotta grow a set & take the chance. I'm going to make some mistakes, but I think I've planned enough that they won't be disastrous.

He took some time off to pursue his roller disco dreams...

As for the roller rink, it also still isn;t happening  :(. Although roller skating never lost popularity just over the border, its been all but forgotten here, it seems. I think thats been our biggest handicap. Although, there is, finally, a rink opening in Ajax, just east of Toronto. I'll be there, probably opening day, in late August. Wish it was a little closer...

Anyway, back on track. I tried to fire up the old pc I've been saving for this project (& playing X3 Reunion and other old games on), & only the fan came on! No beep, nothing on the monitor. I puzzled over this for a while, until a friend's computer genius son suggested this: dead clock battery. I pulled it, tested it, and sure enough, dead. I'll try to get a replacement tomorrow.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #127 on: July 25, 2017, 10:15:51 am »
Welcome back. Glad to see you working on this.  :applaud:

My thoughts on your questions... skip the Pi unless you have space restraints (don't think this is an issue). Use the clunker you have until you run into a situation that prevents you from playing something you want - Hyperspin might be too much for your clunker. Check out Simply Austin on youtube for Hyperspin setup tutorials. Personally, I would start with windows 7 or 10 but that is because I know Windows and I don't know Linux at all but if you do then go for it.

The cost outlay of the above is $0. Old computer that you have = free. Hyperspin = free. Linux or existing Windows OS (assuming XP or 7) = free. Dive in and IF you have to spend a bit of cash to get what you really want, upgrade the PC in the future. Get this part started and running and you may get excited about completing it instead of scared.

Good luck.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #128 on: July 25, 2017, 10:38:01 am »
Build the cabinet. Worry about the computer junk later. Once you have a sweet arcade cabinet taking up space in your house, you will be extra motivated to setup the computer stuff.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #129 on: July 25, 2017, 12:10:50 pm »
Build the cabinet. Worry about the computer junk later. Once you have a sweet arcade cabinet taking up space in your house, you will be extra motivated to setup the computer stuff.

Unless it has the words "Turbo" "Turkey" and "Puncher" in the name.  :D

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #130 on: July 26, 2017, 12:49:12 pm »
Build the cabinet. Worry about the computer junk later. Once you have a sweet arcade cabinet taking up space in your house, you will be extra motivated to setup the computer stuff.

Thats what I've started thinking. Damn, I gotta find somewhere to do the work.

Unless it has the words "Turbo" "Turkey" and "Puncher" in the name.  :D

 :lol

Besides, I got more computer work to do. Swapped in a new battery--thought it was fixed--it tried to boot, & locked up. Reset it, it started to boot, then started again, then started again... Reset it again: Got a blank screen & 3 long beeps--bad motherboard or ram?--uh oh. Opened it up, looked it over, pulled the ram chips & reset them, fired it up--the fan came on...& thats it. My guess is that the motherboard is fudged.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #131 on: July 02, 2018, 01:56:41 am »
At last! I have found somewhere to do the wood working, & we are up & running! After a contractor I approached to do the cutting for me (I wanted to help as much as I could, & do the assembly later) quoted me a price way outside my range, I put a frustrated whining post on facebook begging anyone with a woodshop to help me with this thing.

And a skating friend of mine responded with 'Craig, I'm your man...'

We started cutting the pieces for a particle wood mock up of the control panel. I wanna see how this thing is gonna feel before I commit to far more expensive hardwood ply. Here are some pics
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #132 on: July 02, 2018, 02:00:09 am »
More pics
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #133 on: July 02, 2018, 02:04:16 am »
My friend Al has 2 home made (!) CNC machines, which will allow us to do the kind of precise cuts that matching the actual work to the google sketchup measurements (everything always fits perfectly on paper, or virtually) & an assortment of other tools appropriate for this job, plus the room to work. Okay, we are doing it in his driveway. In any event, I am incredibly grateful.

Hmmm...the pic of his shirt did not come out right...
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #134 on: July 02, 2018, 02:19:37 am »
Sigh. Okay, I give up. I've searched the help & I can't figure this out-how the heck do I bookmark? I've made some in the past, but I cannot remember how nor can I find it again. Very frigging frustrating
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #135 on: July 02, 2018, 03:08:10 am »
Wow, this thread really started in 2013  :lol I hope my build will be finished quite a bit sooner.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #136 on: July 02, 2018, 03:42:03 am »
Yup. I told people then that this'd be the slowest build on the forum ;D
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #137 on: July 09, 2018, 01:21:14 am »
Wow, this thread really started in 2013  :lol I hope my build will be finished quite a bit sooner.

Me too. Its hard to keep up your momentum when you take breaks, & I tend to forget what I need to do next, or why I`m doing something a certain way.

I wasn't able to get any woodworking done last week. I've been reviewing the extensive documentation for 'Ghost in the Machine', which is the project that mine is most based on. & I want to pick up the restoration of my Star Wars yoke; which I can do here at home. I`m having a hard time between my special needs son, my very part time business, roller skating and training for it. I`m getting some help from my girl friend, though, whose very excited about the project & the final project. It`ll get done
« Last Edit: July 09, 2018, 01:22:50 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #138 on: July 09, 2018, 04:15:38 am »
Recognizable. I have to start the woodworking as well, but can't seem to find the time (and actually not the space). Might start this weekend. For the rest I have everything ordered and received, so I should really continue...

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #139 on: July 13, 2018, 12:01:01 am »
I haven't been able to get to my friend's wood shop, so I returned to my Star Wars yoke, & picked up where I left off, so long, long ago...

Much, much thanks to PL1 and the very thoroughly documented 'How to Build a KADESTICK Yoke Interface':http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134781.msg1542677.html#msg1542677. I am following the instructions to the letter.

I'm not crazy about my soldering. The last couple of connections came out pretty good, but the rest are sloppy as hell. I'm getting better at it.

For absolute newbs, like me, a couple of warnings that the even vaguely experienced will laugh their heads off at: 1: If you haven't done any soldering in a long time, do some practice work on some scrap board 1st. 2: Don't solder late at night, when you're tired.

If you try lead free solder, which is what I use, some advice (again, for newbs). Lead free needs more heat & more time to melt & flow. Be patient. Use flux meant for lead free--its designed to take the extra heat.

Also, for those who really, really want to keep their soldering tips clean, I have a suggestion that I actually don't recommend. Get a block of Sal Ammoniac. Here's a link with info about it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salammoniac. To use it, heat your iron, then drill the tip into the sal ammoniac. Add solder. The tip you'll get will be cleaner than when it was brand new. But WEAR A BREATHING FILTER when you do this. The fumes off this stuff are toxic.

Another thing for newbs: The '3 handed tool'. It has 3 alligator clips for holding parts or wire while you work. Useful, but beware the teeth on those clips. I had to thoroughly wrap mine in electrical tape to stop them from biting through the insulation on the wire. Another useful tool is a tiny vise, which I purchased from a 'Warhammer' store. It's intended to hold miniature figures for painting, but lends itself well to this work.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2018, 12:49:15 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #140 on: July 13, 2018, 01:33:55 am »
Much, much thanks to PL1 and the very thoroughly documented 'How to Build a KADESTICK Yoke Interface':http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134781.msg1542677.html#msg1542677. I am following the instructions to the letter.
Glad to assist.   ;D

LMK if I got any letters wrong.   :lol

Also, for those who really, really want to keep their soldering tips clean, I have a suggestion that I actually don't recommend. Get a block of Sal Ammoniac. Here's a link with info about it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salammoniac. To use it, heat your iron, then drill the tip into the sal ammoniac. Add solder. The tip you'll get will be cleaner than when it was brand new. But WEAR A BREATHING FILTER when you do this. The fumes off this stuff are toxic.
If you want to avoid the toxic fumes, consider using a coiled brass tip cleaner like this one instead.



When the soldering iron tip gets dirty and also when you finish soldering, stab the tip into the coils several times (0:48 in the video) to scrape it clean then re-tin the tip with solder.

Hakko 599B-02 Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner Demo Review

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBBFdEbZjGE


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #141 on: July 13, 2018, 05:58:59 am »


I swear it looked like you were soldering right by your nipple at first glance..

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #142 on: July 13, 2018, 10:20:24 am »
Seems you got close.... The hook on that resistor could have been considerably smaller, a small jewelers pliers with smooth jaws works really well,  it should look right before you commit, And to protect the component a heat sink should be used when possible (IMO) , Jenn would throw that lead free in the trash, (but that's just me) silver solder/lead works well and was industry standard before the go green thing. But in any case the smaller the diameter the quicker it melts, put heat to it till it starts to bend and shove it fast in while its hot (around 750deg) Judging from what you got there you waited too long and started to melt the insulation, Cleaning the tip Jenn burns some rosin core on it and lets it smoke good for a few seconds and grabs it with a dry cotton rag wiping the black off it this is done about every 5 joints or so, I don't really ever use the paste on something like that, seems that's more of a special purpose thing, the solder should have enough to flow itself, but smash the end of it when your done so it doesn't drip out.... And it should go without saying use adequate ventilation and wash your hands before eating/smoking.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #143 on: July 14, 2018, 03:19:39 am »
Thanks Jenn. I clipped the end off the resistor after the soldering...should have taken the pic then. There are definite advantages to lead solder...I'm considering going back.

Another trick I have for maintaining my soldering tips is to melt some solder on it after I'm done my work, then turn the iron off and knock off as much of that extra solder as possible. I like the idea of boiling some resin on the tip...I wondered if that worked but never tried it. I'll do so now.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #144 on: July 15, 2018, 01:09:05 am »

I swear it looked like you were soldering right by your nipple at first glance..

 :lol
« Last Edit: July 15, 2018, 01:11:00 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #145 on: July 15, 2018, 01:17:24 am »
I completed the soldering to the board tonight. Phew! My soldering is getting better, although, again, I should have spent some refresher time on some scrap board. After so much time off, I shouldn't let myself get impatient now. The joints look...okay. I gotta do some serious cleanup of waste flux (I actually had an accident--I discovered my bottle of liquid flux had fallen over & leaked over the piece of plywood I was working on. Some had also gotten on the board). For the dumber newbies like me: Use isopropyl alcohol for clean up (90% alcohol). I wondered for a moment if I could use acetone. A moments reflection & confirmation from some quick research on the net saved me. Ketone solvents are pretty aggressive: they can damage plastics & dissolve epoxy.

Next I'll add some heat shrink tubing--not really necessary, but I'd like to tighten up the gap between exposed wire & the board. Jennifer was right--the extra heat I need to work with the lead free solder causes the wires' insulation to shrink back some.

Thanks again to PL1 for the thorough guide on what & where to solder on this thing. (The image of the smaller board to the right is from the printed copy of the KADESTICK guide)

I'm gonna go have a beer now & head to bed
« Last Edit: July 15, 2018, 01:52:45 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #146 on: July 15, 2018, 01:47:42 am »

Glad to assist.   ;D

LMK if I got any letters wrong.   :lol


I will.

If you want to avoid the toxic fumes, consider using a coiled brass tip cleaner instead.

Hmmm. I'm going to look into that.

Good to hear from you again, PL1. I"m a little ashamed that its taken me this long to get back to this. I have honestly been (& still am) busy with other projects (roller skating) & real life (work, son, & girl friend(!)), but I did chicken out when I reached the point where I was going to have to start soldering, & lost my momentum. It took my girlfriend's encouragement, the assistance of my friend Al & his workshop, & my own promise to myself that I will finish this project to get going again.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #147 on: July 16, 2018, 01:47:27 am »
I swear it looked like you were soldering right by your nipple at first glance..

I showed my girl friend & she said it looked like..another body part that you wouldn't want nearby while you were soldering
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #148 on: July 16, 2018, 01:59:19 am »
First failure! I was cleaning up the flux residue & discovered that the lead to the resistor that I soldered to the board had snapped off. I think the easiest thing to do is to desolder both ends, & solder a new resistor on
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #149 on: July 16, 2018, 01:06:33 pm »
Its hard to see in that pic but sounds like a cold joint, you need more heat /watts possibly a different tip....Basically the flux will follow the heat so it needs to be hot all the way through, THEN put your solder to it... small diameter and follow it in until the joint is full (a little extra because it will kinda shrink back a bit as it cools, you will know when you did it right because it will be pretty and shiny, and melted (not clumpy).... This all has to be done without putting too much heat to the board because components and traces do NOT like excessive heat, luckily that board you got there looks pretty forgiving in that respect, however to protect the components a heat sink (little cheap aluminum clip on thing) will absorb the unnecessary and IMO should always be used where possible get multiple however because they get hot by design, so just grab a cool one and keep working.....physics man physics.https://www.robotshop.com/en/soldering-heat-sink.html   
« Last Edit: July 16, 2018, 01:29:10 pm by jennifer »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #150 on: July 17, 2018, 01:10:48 am »
Thanks Jennifer. The heat sink is a great idea. I've used alligator clips in the past as heat sinks. I should have remembered. Theres still wire from the resistor on the pad, & solder. I think I was just too rough on the thin wire of the resistor. I think I should have soldered it last to reduce the amount of handling.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #151 on: July 24, 2018, 12:27:06 am »
Back to Al's for more work on the mock up of the control panel, & a side panel. Once this thing is done, I hope it will give me a real feel for what it will be like to play on.

The panel feels wide enough for 4 players, as hoped. I'm looking forward to mounting some controls on the top of it, and later a mock up monitor.

For newbs like me: In drawing and cutting the side panel, I quickly realized how important it is to have a complete drawing of complicated parts with all measurements carefully drawn in; especially the radii of curves. I didn't do this; I'd drawn boxes around the curves, such that the ends of the curves met at 2 corners on 1 side of the box, and the point on the curve farthest from that side intersected the edge of the opposite side (I hope thats clear). If your curves are entirely cosmetic, I suppose this is fine, although they can be a little difficult to draw onto the wood for cutting purposes.

I've also realized that instead of working on the Star Wars yoke, I should be focusing on the rotating monitor. Theres gonna be a lot of r&d on that, I'll bet (that is, realizing I've screwed up & starting over). But I've got to get its issues solved before I get to the mounting stage. The yoke can be finished later, after everything else is working.
« Last Edit: July 24, 2018, 12:30:07 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #152 on: July 24, 2018, 05:23:09 am »
That side profile looks terrible. You need to go back to the drawing board.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #153 on: July 24, 2018, 06:55:58 am »
Along for the ride!!

Profile is different, i think it depends on the artwork/theme.  Good to be different..

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #154 on: July 24, 2018, 07:04:19 am »
Come on. That profile shrinks down to nothing and then the top looks like a half inflated balloon. There is no reality where that is a good design. It is best to be honest now when it can easily be changed.
« Last Edit: July 24, 2018, 09:36:28 am by Mike A »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #155 on: July 24, 2018, 09:31:35 am »
Come on. That profile shrinks down to nothing and then the top looks like a half inflated balloon. There is no reality where that is a good design. It is best to be honest now when it can be easily be changed.

Seconded. It’s going to look especially bad put up against a wall.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #156 on: July 25, 2018, 04:37:58 pm »
That side profile looks terrible. You need to go back to the drawing board.


Thanks for the honesty. Honesty is much appreciated in this project. Here's a link to the sketchup warehouse, where you can see the finished virtual product: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/0871881c-ef67-496e-bbe6-079d60abe33d/Custom-arcade-cabinet-titled-Legacy

I'm stickin' to that look. I think many will say the finished product will show the method in the madness of that profile.

...but I will admit, seen alone, its rather ugly!
« Last Edit: July 25, 2018, 04:53:09 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #157 on: July 25, 2018, 11:08:04 pm »
Congrats on finally putting some saw to wood!  I can't wait to see the progress.  I hate to say but... the side panel does sort of look like an inverted scrotum.  Your link looks better but, did you cut to the same dimensions?  Is this a single player cab?

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #158 on: July 26, 2018, 01:29:31 am »
Congrats on finally putting some saw to wood!  I can't wait to see the progress.  I hate to say but... the side panel does sort of look like an inverted scrotum.  Your link looks better but, did you cut to the same dimensions?  Is this a single player cab?

 :lol Yup, cut to the same dimensions. And its a 4 player cab
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #159 on: July 26, 2018, 09:25:18 am »
I should be focusing on the rotating monitor. Theres gonna be a lot of r&d on that, I'll bet (that is, realizing I've screwed up & starting over).

I’ve got mine up and running.  Posted a tutorial under automated projects if it’s if help.  If you haven’t figured out already, the minimum width of your cab will be dictated by the diagonals of the display you are using.  Wouldn’t want you to start construction and have to tear things apart cause it wasn’t wide enough.

Tutorial with parts and links where to buy:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156671.0.html

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #160 on: July 26, 2018, 10:18:12 am »
I should be focusing on the rotating monitor. Theres gonna be a lot of r&d on that, I'll bet (that is, realizing I've screwed up & starting over).

I’ve got mine up and running.  Posted a tutorial under automated projects if it’s if help.  If you haven’t figured out already, the minimum width of your cab will be dictated by the diagonals of the display you are using.  Wouldn’t want you to start construction and have to tear things apart cause it wasn’t wide enough.

Tutorial with parts and links where to buy:

[url=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156671.0.html]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156671.0.html[/URL]

Every time I see this I think I'm definitely doing this in my next cab.  It's so cool.   :cheers:

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #161 on: July 26, 2018, 04:22:26 pm »
If you haven’t figured out already, the minimum width of your cab will be dictated by the diagonals of the display you are using.

Yes, I almost learned this the hard way. Had my drawings almost done, and thought I'd left lotsa room for a diagonal monitor. Then tried rotating the virtual monitor, & discovered the evil truth. Resulted in a fairly major rework.  Wouldn’t want you to start construction and have to tear things apart cause it wasn’t wide enough.

Tutorial with parts and links where to buy:

[url=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156671.0.html]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156671.0.html[/URL]

Thanks! I've got the ideas already worked out, but I still have time to change things if I find something better. I'll definitely be checking it out.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2018, 04:25:14 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #162 on: August 04, 2018, 04:08:29 pm »
Finished the 2nd mockup upside down scrotum. Attached both scrotums at the right width (2'4" apart) & placed the incomplete control panel in place. The look & feel seem pretty good.

Other than this little bit of work, its been a crazy busy week. I got nothing done on the programming/rotating monitor end of things, except to go over weissaupt's notes from his wonderful Ghost in the Machine cab.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2018, 04:11:58 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #163 on: August 05, 2018, 08:24:05 pm »
Project Legacy is blowing my balls away.... page 5
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #164 on: August 05, 2018, 10:32:09 pm »
Quote
Finished the 2nd mockup upside down scrotum.

LOL... no more pseudo-scrotums!  Let's drop those nuts and make it already!  :laugh:

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #165 on: August 06, 2018, 01:33:08 pm »
Project Legacy is blowing my balls away.... page 5

I know, sigh. I've been very slow at this. From original 'hmmm...wouldn't a modern computer (which was a 486 then) be powerful enough to play just about every arcade game made?' until now, its been 11 years.

Of course, there've been some major stumbles along the way: wife died, special needs son to raise solo, got back into roller skating in a big way. My lack of knowledge/skills/courage/wood shop has been the major problem. I still don't know how I'm going to do the programming thats going to be required. I gotta figure out how to populate 2 halves of a monitor with different images (RandyT knows, I'm gonna be pestering him), how to use a 'back up monitor' to display the controls for any chosen game, & I'm still scratching my head about the programming of the rotating monitor, even though weissaupt has been very helpful. And of course I gotta figure out how to configure MAME & whatever front end I go with (I`m leaning towards hyperspin) to call up these programs when needed.

I've been so afraid of pouring a lot of money into R&D on this. I'll get it done. Its just gonna be a lotta work.

Maybe the best advice I can give to any newbie considering building a cab, it'd be to join & spend a lot of time on this forum. This project is very unlikely to be completed without the help of all the great people here.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2018, 10:03:10 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #166 on: August 06, 2018, 01:35:16 pm »
The best advice would be to start simple.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #167 on: August 06, 2018, 01:45:46 pm »
The best advice would be to start simple.

Very true. But I only wanna do this once, & I only have money & space for 1 great project. So I`m going big (actually, I`m wondering if there`ll be enough money left over from this to do a virtual pinball machine using the occulus rift).
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #168 on: August 06, 2018, 02:52:26 pm »
How do you know you won't have space 16 years from now when this cab is done?

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #169 on: August 06, 2018, 05:30:19 pm »
I don't think you'll have any regrets if you simplify some things and enjoy the final product.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #170 on: August 06, 2018, 08:15:20 pm »
How do you know you won't have space 16 years from now when this cab is done?

This is always a possibility. But I doubt it. If anything, I'll have probably sold the house & be living in a small apartment. My career/money possibilities aren't good for the distant future, either. I'm 54 now, running my own very small business, which I'm about to quit because I'm barely breaking even. Tim Hortons is looking like my great future career possibility. I wouldn't be doing this project at all if I hadn't bought 95% of the parts years ago, & still have money saved specifically for this.

And I'm sure it won't take me longer than 15 years to complete.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2018, 10:01:29 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #171 on: August 06, 2018, 08:21:35 pm »
I don't think you'll have any regrets if you simplify some things and enjoy the final product.

I have compromised on some early ideas, but there're some things I simply must have. I think I've given up on the detachable periscope idea, & the glowing silicone brain under the glass dome I was gonna put on top of the machine (I was imagining something like the brain creatures from 'the gamesters of triskelion'; it would have been awesome eye candy) has been traded for the lcd marquee.

I'll enjoy the final product alright, but I'm enjoying the road there, too. I'm in no rush
« Last Edit: August 06, 2018, 08:38:47 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #172 on: August 24, 2018, 10:35:26 pm »
At last, another update. We used Al's homemade cnc (this guy operates at a level way above mine) to convert my google sketchup to a mockup of an 8" modular panel. This 1 could hold the track ball, or, as weissaupt suggested in his 'what I would have done different' considering his wonderful 'Ghost in the Machine' cab, a spinner panel.

Al used simple double sided tape to hold the piece in place while the machine operated. A slightly sloppy belt in the base resulted in a tiny bit of slippage in the final cut. We'll tighten up the machine for the real panel (again I'm glad we're making a mock up of cheap material).

We also made a 4" panel...I thought I took pics but I can't seem to find them  ???

In other news, my search to find another old clunker computer continues.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2018, 12:33:38 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #173 on: August 24, 2018, 10:54:27 pm »
Are you still doing mock ups or are you cutting the real deal?

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #174 on: August 27, 2018, 12:31:49 am »
This is mockup. I wanna mount a control or 2 to get a better feel for the final product. But I could almost use the pieces Al & I cut--they were both off less than 1/16" due to the slippage in a belt. I'm considering it.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2018, 12:33:59 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #175 on: August 27, 2018, 04:11:19 am »
I don't think that CNC machine is going to cut actual wood correctly if the belt is slipping when you are cutting that super thin stock. Is it a homemade machine? Those rotozips aren't designed for CNC spindle duty. You would be better off cutting your pieces manually.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #176 on: August 28, 2018, 12:54:13 am »
Al's quite confident that he can fix the tiny bit of slippage going on. That stock is 1/2"mdf. But I'll talk to him about it. Manually is how I originally thought I'd be cutting it anyway.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #177 on: August 28, 2018, 01:53:37 am »
Al's quite confident that he can fix the tiny bit of slippage going on. That stock is 1/2"mdf. But I'll talk to him about it.
Not sure if Al's system can generate g-code for the Trochoidal milling method, but it could help reduce cutting forces ==> less chance of belt slippage.


Scott

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« Reply #178 on: August 29, 2018, 12:01:40 am »
Thats a good idea! Those panels have to be machined to a pretty fine tolerance to fit right. That method might be the solution. Thanks PL1! I'll talk to Al about it
« Last Edit: August 29, 2018, 12:04:01 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #179 on: August 29, 2018, 04:22:25 am »
If an axis belt is slipping you are cutting too fast. Slow down the feed speed. If the belt slips at low speed than find a real CNC machine that uses screws or rack and pinion. Better yet, it's a freaking arcade cab. Cut it with a jigsaw and sand it to fit. You are only building one cab, not 50.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #180 on: September 16, 2018, 12:16:41 am »
If an axis belt is slipping you are cutting too fast. Slow down the feed speed. If the belt slips at low speed than find a real CNC machine that uses screws or rack and pinion. Better yet, it's a freaking arcade cab. Cut it with a jigsaw and sand it to fit. You are only building one cab, not 50.

All very true. It's Al's work space & equipment, though, & he's convinced he can get the machine up to snuff. Also, he plain likes to play with it.  ;D
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #181 on: September 16, 2018, 12:43:49 am »
At last, an update! I've been busy with real life stuff (roller skating, working for our roller skating grand imperial poobah, getting my son settled back in school, did I say roller skating?), but finally did some work on the 8" 6 button panel.

Once again, the value of starting with a mock up is proving invaluable. We discovered that the button holes were a bit too small, despite the sketchup drawings being accurate. It turned out that Al had mismeasured the router bit in his cnc. A quick editing, & the problem is fixed. It was cool to see a gold leaf push button mounted.

On my own I'm still working on the rotating monitor design, via google sketchup for the moment. I'm concerned about the weight of the monitor on the support. When I finish some options I'll post them for your feedback.

Also, just as with Doc's Modular Mame, & Weissaupt's Ghost in the Machine, I have to pick a way to attach these individual controller panels to the box, in a way that they stay in position well despite rough handling, but can be quickly removed without tools. Doc used a peg & hole arrangement, Weissaupt used velcro. Both seem to work great, but a roller skating friend of mine offered me these powerful earth magnets, I'm considering trying them to hold down the edge of the panels closest to the player. The farther end I intend to try Doc's peg & hole setup. Of course, I'll have to consider the issues magnets bring with them...(I don't want to wipe a friend's credit cards)
« Last Edit: September 16, 2018, 12:50:27 am by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

  
 

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