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Author Topic: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy  (Read 15857 times)

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lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #40 on: October 02, 2013, 02:32:35 pm »
Thank you! Wouldn't u know I had just found & was rereading that post. I think I might try a paper label under a piece of clear heat shrink tubing. I'm going on a lot about this, but I know I've struggled with the 'this 1 goes here, that 1 goes there!' issue in the past, & my solutions then (masking tape flag torn from the roll with the label scribbled on with a sharpie) were ugly.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #41 on: October 03, 2013, 10:59:08 pm »
Well, I've had my first mishap, unless someone has some idea how to fix this. Don't know if it'll show in the pics, but, as warned by 1UP, getting the pot off the dual strike board is tough & tricky. After I desoldered as best I could, & wiggled & pulled & cursed the thing off, the stubs of 2 of the contacts were left on the board. I tried to desolder these--no luck. Finally I took my teeniest drill (I think thats its official diameter--I forget what it is, but yes, its as small as the holes) & drilled them out. I was worried the extensive desoldering had lifted the centermost (white wire) trace off the board, & after I drilled it I was even more sure. & then I discovered I couldn't get the new wire to solder to it. I'm pretty sure I've pooched it--unless, like I say, someone has an idea. Time to break out my 2nd dual strike board (& go looking for another 1) & try not to wreck it.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #42 on: October 03, 2013, 11:18:52 pm »
If the 2nd hack doesn't work, you might want to try an Atmel ATMega32U4 board like the one in my Analog KADESTICK.

I've been trying to test a second 32U4 board with a SW yoke, but have had some problems loading the hex for some reason. :angry:  :banghead:


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #43 on: October 04, 2013, 09:18:15 am »
Thanks Scott. Yeah, when I started collecting parts for this project way back when, analog boards either didn't exist yet, or were still so rare & new that the dual strike hack was still the only way to go, otherwise...

Uhhh, what does 'loading the hex mean'?  ???
« Last Edit: October 04, 2013, 09:20:16 am by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #44 on: October 04, 2013, 12:09:12 pm »
what does 'loading the hex mean'?  ???
The firmware that defines and controls the various board functions uses hexadecimal encoding.

The source code is compiled into a firmware update file using the extension .HEX.

The .HEX file is then used to program the firmware on the board. (a.k.a. "Loading the hex.")

KADE Loader does this behind the scenes, but the 32U4 board and Analog Firmware aren't included (. . . yet ;D) so for now, you have to use the FLIP program to load the hex.


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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #45 on: October 04, 2013, 12:45:54 pm »
I figured it was about programming. I actually slapped together (literally--during the 15 minutes that I used it (once ever) & then disassembled it I had to avoid breathing on it too hard to avoid shorting exposed wires) a pic programmer (for the...16f84? Does that sound right?) once for my many times mentioned kvasar dream mask project. I know next to nothing about writing programs (got the kvasar's program online) & I'd have to start from scratch if I had to build another programmer. Found an easier way anyway--a local guy with a programmer that load the chips for a cup of coffee (I have to provide the program).
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #46 on: October 04, 2013, 01:39:07 pm »
I considered buying a hardware PIC programmer, but the AVR boards with USB headers can be programmed via free software like FLIP -- free software wins.  ;D


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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #47 on: October 05, 2013, 09:00:58 pm »
Free? That's my critical sell point, too.  ;D
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #48 on: October 09, 2013, 12:37:10 pm »
Okay, moving right along in the slowest build on the forum, I have progress to report! After ruining the 1st dual strike board, I did what I should have the first time; I went looking for information on how to desolder parts from a pcb properly. Of course, I found tons of information. & if anyone out there would like to hear in greater detail what I learned, I'd b glad to post it at request, but otherwise I'm going to assume that everyone else on this forum knows more about soldering/desoldering than I do, and don't need it repeated it here.

Anyway, after an hour and a half of careful, painstaking application of what I learned, I successfully desoldered the pot off the dual's board, & soldered new wires to it. Here are a couple of pics. Please forgive my soldering, I thoroughly checked the joints & they are good (I used the 'twist & tug' test, and followed up with a rigorous finger wagging combined with an application of warnings concerning what fate might befall the joints should they decide to fail later, thoroughly peppered with all the appropriate colourful expletives) despite the massive amount of solder I used on 2 of them, & the much smaller amount on the 3rd 1. Have I mentioned how much I hate soldering?
« Last Edit: October 11, 2013, 01:42:09 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #49 on: October 12, 2013, 11:20:38 am »
Soldered wires to 1 of the new microswitches for the yoke last night. Yay. Will post a pic later.

...man, this's gonna take a lonnnggg time. Maybe once I get the basement reno completed, & assuming H' continues to do okay at school, I'll have a little more time to commit to this.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #50 on: October 15, 2013, 08:14:29 pm »
Completed soldering of all 4 microswitches. Yes, thats a bare patch on that 1 black wire, covered with heat shrink tubing. I had to cut a wire already soldered because I'd made it way too long, & solder the cut to the wire already soldered to the other switch. Sigh. I'd think given how slowly I have to move on this project, that I'd at least avoid these obvious dumb mistakes.

"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #51 on: October 16, 2013, 12:44:37 pm »
There's no dumb mistakes.  Just development opportunities.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #52 on: October 16, 2013, 02:10:19 pm »
There's no dumb mistakes.  Just development opportunities.

AJ

I need to print this for my barn.  Had one of those days yesterday.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #53 on: October 17, 2013, 10:45:53 am »
Yes, YES! It's similar to something I've said to new roller skaters who've compared their ability disparagingly to mine (& the weird thing is, I'm completely serious--they can b clumsy as hell, but if they look like they're having the time of their lives, I enjoy watching them skate); they're not poor skaters, they've got 'infinite potential'.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #54 on: October 21, 2013, 11:09:31 pm »
Started on soldering the other wires that connect to the dual strike's board. Got 2 done, & heat shrinked. Yay for me. :blank:
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #55 on: October 24, 2013, 10:39:06 pm »
Banner night for me. Got a whole hour after I put H' to bed to work. Got the remaining wires (4) soldered/head shrinked to the dual strike. Everything went smooth.

I think I'll temporarily wire the pots to the circuit, plug it into the computer & test to make sure it survived the mod. & its time to work out my wire labelling system.

...maybe soldering isn't so bad.

« Last Edit: October 24, 2013, 10:42:23 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #56 on: October 27, 2013, 11:49:54 pm »
Temporarily attached the pots & microswitches to the 'strike's board, & plugged it into my windows 7 machine just to see what'd happen. The computer saw the dual strike, & the 4 micro's registered as hat switches, but I couldn't get anything out of the pots. I think I'll hook the multimeter up to the pots tomorrow & test them (should have done this at the start...hmmm, I probably did, & have simply forgotten--that's my story & I'm sticking to it). I imagine the pots issue is simply a windows 7 thing--anybody know anything about this?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #57 on: October 29, 2013, 11:26:19 pm »
Dual strike board pretty much ready to go. I labeled the wires, wishing I'd done the pots before I'd soldered them--I found I couldn't get my heat shrink to slip over 3 wires at once to do the pots, so I used a little hot glue to adfix the labels. Also cut the extra unneeded wires off the board & hot glued the ends. Hot glue is definitely my friend.

Crap. Forgot to multimeter the pots, just to be sure they're okay. Will do next, & assuming they're okay, I'll start reassembling the yoke.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2013, 11:29:51 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #58 on: November 01, 2013, 11:28:26 pm »
Checked the pots, tested the microswitches, & reassembled the handles of the yoke with the new switches in place. Was gonna take a pic of the handle lying open with the switches, springs, trigger & thumb buttons in place, but after 2 desperate searches for runaway springs, I decided to just get the damn covers on & then take a pic.

Which raises a question I've never asked: How to prevent runaway springs. I think I heard someone once say work with a cover over u & the work, & I've tried working in a box. My tenant, who is a mechanic & also accustomed to runaway parts, says what he does, when appropriate, is to put a little vaseline on a potential runaway. If it drops or springs away, it tends to stick wherever it lands. Anyway, heres the pic:
« Last Edit: November 01, 2013, 11:32:50 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #59 on: November 01, 2013, 11:34:47 pm »
& for everyone's entertainment, heres a pic of amateur roller derby blocker Pia Mess, number 247 of the Derby Divas, who was seen training the night of Oct. 31st at my favourite rink:
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #60 on: November 01, 2013, 11:37:27 pm »
Does anyone have a good technique, or know of a tool, that can remove/insert this type of clip? The yoke has 3 of them, & 1 is dangerously close to 1 of the 60 tooth wheels.

« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 05:27:07 pm by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #61 on: November 04, 2013, 11:57:32 pm »
Does anyone have a good technique, or know of a tool, that can remove/insert this type of clip? The yoke has 3 of them, & 1 is dangerously close to 1 of the 60 tooth wheels.
Since we're still waiting for Saint to fix the BYOAC wiki logins (14+ months, but who's counting  ;D), Spoot set up a functioning wiki and I loaded the text and pics from the SW yoke rebuild page here.

Feel free to add any text or pics that you might want to contribute.

Insert a large common screwdriver between the belly of the c-clip and the shaft -- twist the screwdriver to push the clip away from the shaft and be sure the "downrange" area is prepped in case the clip launches.

A pair of needlenose pliers can hold the clip straight whole you reinstall it.



In order to reach the clip between the 60 tooth and the front frame next to the right handle, you'll need to:
- Desolder/remove the wires that run to the handle switches (one of your earlier posts looks like you've already got that covered with the wires and handles removed)
- Remove the crossbar that holds the vertical centering springs
- Remove the clip by the left handle
- Remove the right handle from the shaft (looks like you've already done that)
- Slide the shaft to the left
- Use a screwdriver to remove the clip

Between this and the rebuild entry link above, you should be on your way to getting your yoke back up and running again.   :cheers:


Scott
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 02:16:28 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #62 on: November 05, 2013, 01:07:14 am »
Thanks PL1. I downloaded that disassembly procedure from the wiki some weeks ago--its very thorough.

I managed to get the rings out & back in again--twice since I last posted, & without the use of pliers or a screwdriver. As u suspected, I've already completely disassembled this thing, replaced the microswitches & reassembled the handles (a terrifying experience involving searching for launched tiny springs--twice). Then I thought to look at the maintenance technician's manual for the yoke (I think I downloaded it from the KLOV site) & noticed the thoughtfully included very thorough assembly/disassembly instructions (they even detail what size of wrenchs to use) & started following them (sigh).

First problem I encountered was that the shaft didn't want to slide back through the bearings. I forced it with a rubber mallet, got the springs & large gear on, & pushed those troublesome clips back on with a handy wooden tool designed specifically for that job...not! (seen below in the pic...yes, its the end of a wooden paint brush). I then realized that that shaft had to rotate fairly freely, & it certainly wasn't. I then remembered the tool I'd used the 1st time I'd removed those clips--a hook tool, shown in the pic below, with a cloth over the assembly to prevent launching. Prying against the shaft, they came out easily (yay!). I tapped the shaft back out, then went at the inside of the bearings with some emery cloth until the shaft rotated smoothly in them. Then I cleaned the whole thing up thoroughly, oiled the bearings as per instructions in the manual, slid the shaft back in, replacing the gear & springs along the way, & remounted the clips. Yay! Next step--replace the screw mounting the gear to the shaft. But where the hell was the threaded hole in the shaft?! Finally I found it--on the end opposite where the gear was. The manual does NOT warn u to make sure that hole is on the same side as the gear. Get the hook back out, pull the clips off again, slide the shaft back out, reverse it, slide it back in, remount gear, springs, & clips--all without incident. Screwed down the big gear. Whew!

Then on to the 1st potentiometer. That went fairly smoothly. I noticed right away when I'd tightened the nut that held it to the bracket that the lock nut had fallen off during installation. So I took it back off & put the washer where it belonged. & there was a tense moment when I thought my hex wrench wasn't going to reach the screw used to mount the 14 tooth gear to the pot shaft. But it went on in the end. 12:30--got to b up at 7:30--time for bed.

So heres a pic of the assembly at this point, with my 2 handy clip removing/remounting tools. Something with a flatter end than that paint brush would have been better, but the fact that it was wood & thin enough to slide easily between the big gear and the bearing gave me some confidence that if something did go wrong, I had an improved chance of not damaging that precious gear.

« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 01:16:34 am by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #63 on: November 05, 2013, 02:07:04 am »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

Reoriented (and trimmed?), it would work perfectly at the end of step 20.


Scott
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 02:44:40 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #64 on: November 05, 2013, 08:26:31 am »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

Reoriented (and trimmed?), it would work perfectly at the end of step 20.


Scott

I'm a little flattered! Of course I will contribute in any way I can; please use that pic & any other as u c fit. Want me to post another 1, sans tools?

How noobish should the wiki b? Should u include the suggestion to emery-out stubborn bearings before installing the shaft for 'tards like me?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #65 on: November 05, 2013, 03:56:41 pm »
Updated the Yoke Rebuild entry on Spoot's wiki with your gear-hole warning.   :cheers:

Would you mind if I used your last photo for the wiki entry?

I'm a little flattered! Of course I will contribute in any way I can; please use that pic & any other as u c fit. Want me to post another 1, sans tools?
Uploaded pic and updated text to mention the hook tool in the pic.

Are the pic and revised text OK?

How noobish should the wiki b? Should u include the suggestion to emery-out stubborn bearings before installing the shaft for 'tards like me?
Feel free to add suggestions, tips, or photos you think will help the next guy.   ;D


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #66 on: November 06, 2013, 12:35:26 am »
Yeah, the pic looks good, & the text is as correct as can b. Cool!

I've noticed a couple of other differences between the manual & my yoke--small things like a bolt that required a different size of hex wrench than the manual mentioned, &, more worrisomely, the collar that the shaft from the steering assembly slides thru to mount it to the handle assembly--the manual claims there r 3 threaded holes in the collar & shaft that each require a bolt--my yoke has the 3 holes, but the bolt requires a larger wrench than described, & there is only 1 bolt. Some lazy tech left the other 2, I suppose. 2 of the holes are in very difficult to reach places anyway, & given the diameter of the bolt, the fact that its threaded thru the collar & into the shaft, & finally that its not in a spot where it will xperience much of the kind of pressure that would put strain on it, I'm tempted to leave it as is.

With that in mind, I've got the steering assembly put back together with the new pot mounted, & the 2 assemblies attached to each other again.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2013, 03:49:38 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #67 on: November 09, 2013, 01:10:50 am »
Please tell me you aren't planning on routing the wires for the rear pot where, over time, gravity will tend to pull them into the gears.   :o


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #68 on: November 09, 2013, 11:00:50 pm »
Good god, no. I haven't gotten to tying them off/mounting them yet, but I'm not taking any chances. They'll b tied & fastened safely away where gravity's evil work will only help hold them away from those gears. But thanks for pointing out the problem.

Got 1 handle mounted. Why only 1? Ever notice how instructions say 'slide handle onto shaft', or 'guide handle wires thru shaft to the nearest holes into steering assembly', & then, when u go to do it, u find the powder coat on your handles requires u to sand down their insides for 20 minutes before they'll slide onto that shaft, & that those holes in the shaft that the wires have to go thru have a burr on them that shreds the jackets on the wires, requiring some heat shrink tubing repair, & more sanding/filing to get that burr off? I love thorough instructions, but I hate it when they miss the problems that almost inevitably develop.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2013, 11:03:33 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #69 on: November 11, 2013, 11:30:29 pm »
Both handles mounted, wires tied off & run thru the shaft, x gear & clip immediately behind it removed so I could move the large washer I'd put between them to the RIGHT spot--between the clip & the bearing (1 of the pics from the manual made it look like it went where I had it at 1st  :angry:), & temporary flags attached to the wires on the exit side of the shaft to tell me who's who when I'm ready to attach them to the dual strike's pcb.

Caught another mistake. The x pot wasn't centered properly--when I turned the yoke on the x axis I saw the bumpers didn't make contact in 1 direction before I reached the end of the pot's turn  :o --fixed that!

...those grips feel darn sweet. It'll b great to race down the Death Star's trench again. Reached round 22 back when (saw a guy on round 100 once--no bull). I'm gonna beat that...
« Last Edit: November 11, 2013, 11:51:10 pm by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #70 on: November 12, 2013, 11:16:27 pm »
Tested the yoke on 2 machines; an XP & a Windows 7. Both saw the dual strike, & picked up the triggers & thumb buttons, but neither responded to the pots at all. Supposedly the dual strike is compatible with XP, but why aren't the pots registering? I tested the pots before assembly & they read fine.

Also, enjoy this photo of  'xtra parts' left over from the yoke's reassembly. The 1's in the lower left corner I can account for, but the 1's on the right--maybe I got some stuff mixed in from elsewhere, but I doubt it...my boarder is a mechanic, he assured me that this happens with cars all the time...(yikes!)
« Last Edit: November 12, 2013, 11:21:54 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #71 on: November 13, 2013, 12:29:48 am »
Supposedly the dual strike is compatible with XP, but why aren't the pots registering? I tested the pots before assembly & they read fine.

Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #72 on: November 13, 2013, 03:19:42 pm »
Nice progress lcmgadgets!

I shall be following this! 8)
Doing arcades, the cheap@ss way!
First Project : ttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151071.0.html
Next one : The Token Muncher [urlhttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135417.0.html[/url]

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #73 on: November 14, 2013, 09:52:33 am »
Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?

Crap. So this isn't just an XP/7 issue. I'll try to get around to testing this today. I DID test the pots before installation, can't recall exactly what I got but I must have been happy with the results then... :dunno

Nice progress lcmgadgets!

I shall be following this! 8)

Thanks. I have very little time to work on this, but I try to get even 15 minutes a day. I can use all the encouragement I can get. I know from a past project (non arcade related) that I can get it done this way, however frustrating it can sometimes b to c others racing by. Also, when u have so little time, even small set backs, like this pot mystery, can b xtra frustrating.

You're going to b following for a lonnnggg time, then.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 09:54:30 am by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #74 on: November 14, 2013, 12:05:27 pm »
You're going to b following for a lonnnggg time, then.

 ;D I'll make sure my future retirement home as internet then!  ;)
Your are still way ahead of my anyway! 8)
Doing arcades, the cheap@ss way!
First Project : ttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151071.0.html
Next one : The Token Muncher [urlhttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135417.0.html[/url]

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #75 on: November 14, 2013, 12:08:06 pm »
Where r u at with yours?
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #76 on: November 14, 2013, 12:16:07 pm »
No wood work yet, I am waiting on a router that I have to loan.
But I am well underway on the software parts, done trimming and categorizing the roms list, settled on a theme and a name and started work on my somewhat gaudy AtomicFE layout.  I also did a temp CP in wood, to the dimensions it will have. It has brought me the knowledge on how to correctly place may button layout on it and how I will wire this thing to the xin-mo (custom rs-45 connectors). The computer is almost ready to go, so it will basically be plug and play when I'm done.
Doing arcades, the cheap@ss way!
First Project : ttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151071.0.html
Next one : The Token Muncher [urlhttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135417.0.html[/url]

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #77 on: November 14, 2013, 12:41:09 pm »
Then, holy inaccurate, batman, you're definitely ahead of me! I've got most of the controls & interfaces I want, a coin door, monitors, old pc, most of the eye candy, lexan, &...I'm sure there's more down there collecting dust, some incomplete google sketch ups, & the basic idea of what I want, but the only physical work I've completed is on this yoke!

Have u posted your project?

...okay, just found it. Cool!
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 12:43:06 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #78 on: November 14, 2013, 02:46:49 pm »
Using your multimeter, do you measure ground on black, operating voltage (5v?) on red and half of the operating voltage (~2.5v?) on white?

Does the voltage on white vary as you move that axis?
Crap. So this isn't just an XP/7 issue. I'll try to get around to testing this today. I DID test the pots before installation, can't recall exactly what I got but I must have been happy with the results then... :dunno
I'm not sure if it's hardware or software.

I figured you may have installed the drivers (if needed?) and checked out the dual strike before you started the hack, which would eliminate software.   :dunno

All it takes is one bad solder joint to mess up the whole axis.

By testing for 5v and ground at the pot, you verify that those connections are good from the board.

By testing the wiper (white wire) at the pot you confirm that 5v and ground are good and verify that the pot is working properly which narrows your search down to where the wiper connects to the board.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #79 on: November 14, 2013, 11:58:44 pm »
The pots check out fine on their own. XP & 7 see the dual strike, & recognize it. My W7 laptop claims its got the latest drivers. The thumbs & triggers work fine. On the dual strike's board, though, I'm getting nothing from the x axis...humph! If anything, I would have expected trouble from the y, since its the 1 that has to b soldered right to the board. Y seems fine. Maybe I broke 1 of those small wires I soldered too, or the connector on the board itself is bad...hmmm...played with that connector some, & now the computer doesn't pick up the dual strike at all! I have the feeling she's dead, Jim. I killed it. :-[

...YAY! I guess that means I'll just have to invest in...what's the best for my use? I'm trying to get a pair of positional guns, they'll need an analog interface too. I originally thought I might need something for driving controls, too, but I bought an RS wheel & pedals, so that potential problem is solved. What do u guys think.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

  
 

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