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Author Topic: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy  (Read 14917 times)

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lcmgadgets

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Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« on: May 06, 2013, 01:01:08 am »
Hi everyone :).

I've been thinking/planning/acquiring parts/google sketchuping for a dream cab for a long time now (i think, in fact, since 2006). Other Byoacers have been talking of buying/building me a cab (for reasons many of u know, & if u don't & want to, ask & I'll reveal) & at first I was tempted, but I finally realized that the journey is what mattered to me, & I have to build this myself (but not without help!). This is going to b a long journey. I have very little free time (I have a 7 year old son with special needs for whom I am now not only the sole caregiver but also the teacher), few tools & no real work room, & I have one 'white elephant' of a project in mind. I want to build a Ghost in the Machine Mark II-like cab, with a RandyT lcd marquee. A friend recently offered his work room for my use, once he cleans it up, & if that falls thru, I have some other ideas (& if anyone out there has any thots as to where someone might get the use of a woodshop somewhere, please let me know. I've considered looking for a school with one, or maybe the local college...). In the meantime, I'm going to build & prep what I can.

The name of the cab is Legacy, for a number of reasons, including that my late dad donated the bulk of the money that makes the project possible at all. I have acquired the bulk of the controls (lacking a Tron/DOT stick--considering a u360/Tron handle mod for that 1, a positional gun for Operation Wolf/Terminator, a 360 degree steering wheel (I'm hoping GGG will sell me one to fit on the push/pull spinner I bought from them ages back) & maybe a periscope, if I can figure out how to build one & make it work), interfaces (should I stick with my aged plans to use a Sidewinder hack for Star Wars?), & other stuff (t molding, el-wire, monitors, coin door, etc.).

I've studied the many wonderful projects, plans, ideas, photos, videos, etc., bought both of 'Saint's books, & otherwise scoured for information to decide what I wanted, & how to do it.

& if I'm ever going to do it, I have to start. I'm going to need a lot of help. I'm not a carpenter, a programmer, or an electrician (although I have completed a couple of very ugly electronic projects). So I'm going to b asking for a lot of help.

So here I go: I have a Star Wars yoke, & after letting it sit on a shelf for over a year, I finally took it down & began to figure out what I'm going to have to do to it to use it. Long ago I decided to use Jude Kelly's sidewinder hack to interface it, & bought a couple of sidewinders off ebay, but since then other analog interfaces have been made, & if anyone can convince me to switch, I will. Anyway, I disassembled it, sent the cover & handles away for bead blasting & powder coating, looked over the rest to see what would have to b replaced, & what could b salvaged. I just missed RAM Controls closure, otherwise I might have chanced being ripped off to buy one of their rebuild kits. It looks like I'll have to get the bulk of what I think I need from ArcadeFitit.com--expensive, but I don't see an alternative. I tried to clean a lot of the parts, first by soaking them in degreaser--& here I've encountered my first problem--a black goo, that I thot was just grease, on some of the parts will not come off. It looks like the crap thats left of the bumpers (which, of course, need replacing). Anyone out there encounter this goo, & found a way to remove it?

...and so it begins...
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

Le Chuck

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2013, 01:07:02 am »
Dude, I'm in for the ride.  Sounds like you have a lot of controls and a lot of goals for this cab.  I'll let others issue words of caution.  I for one want to sit back and see drawings, pics, renders, or something of what you have in mind.  Let's get started!

Slydsho

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2013, 02:36:50 am »
im in for the ride as well, i love seeing custom builds and following the goods and the bads. subscribed, and good luck with the project  :cheers:

Brian74

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2013, 08:25:08 am »
Im right beside you, in for the long haul. I will help you as much as I can!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
         

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2013, 10:18:32 am »
I'm down.  Pictures and details of what you've tried or your thoughts will go a long long way towards the best help provided.  You can do it!

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2013, 10:34:54 am »
Gulp. Thanks everyone. I knew this day had to come, & this certainly isn't the best time, but there's never going to b a perfect time, so I might as well either get rid of all these wonderful parts gathering dust in the basement, & call myself a failure, or get to work.

I have a lot to do. If I can manage it, I'm going to try to document as much as possible, to make this road easier for others to follow (if any r interested). I know I certainly have appreciated the mountains of detail others have given, without it this project wouldn't b possible. I better get back to work with sketchup--I had made a fair amount of progress with it (drawing controllers, in particular, with way too much detail), when I changed gears & simply stole weisshaupt's beautiful sketchup of his glorious Ghost in the Machine Mark II (along with his rotating monitor plans, lighted t-moulding, etc.). I was spending my time trying to edit his sketchup to suit my needs, when...life went to hell. Now its time to get back to work.

I've also got to clean & organize what little work room I have here (the furnace room, which is about 10' X 10', but good enough for small work).

So, back to the immediate point: Anyone have any idea how to get this black goo off my yoke (that almost sounds like something...)? I've tried degreaser & goo gone. Both have had very limited affect on it. Some of the parts in question r plastic (the 'spacer bearing', in particular), so I don't want to try wire wheeling it off.

Also, I'm wondering what parts on it I really must replace. The gears look great, the steering shafts have a little wear on them but still look pretty good. The large springs (the torsion & handle springs--I'm looking at the parts list from the manual) LOOK good, but I don't know if I should trust appearances. The retainers on the thumb buttons have a little tiny bit of corrosion, but still, I think, look pretty good. I won't gamble on the pots or microswitches, I simply replace them & b sure. Should the old wiring go, if it doesn't have holes or wear on it? The trigger buttons are fine. I'm replacing the thumb & trigger springs. Of course the bumpers r shot. I've got to get new screws for the outside cover, but the rest look okay (some have a little corrosion, but I think they're fine). Are those brassy ring/cap things what the manual calls 'bearings'? Hard to tell, but they look pretty good, a little scratched around the edges maybe (probably all from my efforts to remove them)...

Any ideas/thots/opinions? ???
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2013, 10:37:49 am »
Are you planning to use swappable panels, or are you going to have all those controls mounted at once?
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2013, 11:56:33 am »
Woot lets do this!!!

Yep those brass rings are the barings, as long as the shafts aren't knocking around or grinding in them you'll be ok. As for the black goop I'm not too sure, but if you're trying to get it off metal try paint stripper, just do it in a ventilated area.
I just finished rebuilding a Paperboy yolk which uses a lot of the same parts. Sounds like you already managed to pull the gears apart so you've survived removing the long brass shaft retaining bolts without snapping them. Remember when you put those back just hand tighten them, they can damage really easy.
You can get the Pots from a bunch of different places, they are 5k, the thing you just need to look out for is matching the shaft length.

Good luck on the rest of the build, just remember if you're using MDF, work with it outside AND wear a good dust mask, that stuff is great to work with but hell on your sinuses and lungs.

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2013, 12:08:53 pm »
Are you planning to use swappable panels, or are you going to have all those controls mounted at once?

Swappable modules. Like Ghost in the Machine's....I imagine I'm gonna need something pretty robust to support that yoke...

Yep those brass rings are the barings, as long as the shafts aren't knocking around or grinding in them you'll be ok. As for the black goop I'm not too sure, but if you're trying to get it off metal try paint stripper, just do it in a ventilated area.
I just finished rebuilding a Paperboy yolk which uses a lot of the same parts. Sounds like you already managed to pull the gears apart so you've survived removing the long brass shaft retaining bolts without snapping them. Remember when you put those back just hand tighten them, they can damage really easy.
You can get the Pots from a bunch of different places, they are 5k, the thing you just need to look out for is matching the shaft length.

Good luck on the rest of the build, just remember if you're using MDF, work with it outside AND wear a good dust mask, that stuff is great to work with but hell on your sinuses and lungs.

Thanks! I was a little concerned about those retaining bolts; they took a little more force than I expected to come out--almost seemed seized. Got lucky I guess. I'll post a pic of my 'work table' (snicker) later with the parts scattered across it, then I'm gonna start cleaning/organizing it, like I should have before I started.

 Yeah, I figured I'd try paint stripper next. & I have a tin of acetone--but might that not hurt the plastic (it always seems to damage Plastic Man, but isn't he more like rubber?)?

& I'm either using plywood or mdo (the guy who says he lend me his workshop has a process for covering the ply that looks great, & that he says is almost indestructible--it's used for bar tops).

Okay, gotta go educate my kid. Later
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2013, 12:10:56 pm »
Yeah, I figured I'd try paint stripper next. & I have a tin of acetone--but might that not hurt the plastic (it always seems to damage Plastic Man, but isn't he more like rubber?)?

If it's on plastic don't try the paint stripper on that, it'll probably assplode into a mushroom cloud

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2013, 12:12:24 am »
Uhh, I suspect I just did something dumb (1 of many, & many more to come). I wrote a fairly long message about what I've done today, attached some pics, & tried to post &...lost it all. I've never tried to attach pics before--what'd I do wrong?

Will post again tomorrow with details about todays (meager) accomplishments.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

Le Chuck

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2013, 06:25:24 pm »
Uhh, I suspect I just did something dumb (1 of many, & many more to come). I wrote a fairly long message about what I've done today, attached some pics, & tried to post &...lost it all. I've never tried to attach pics before--what'd I do wrong?

Will post again tomorrow with details about todays (meager) accomplishments.

I always post then edit to add pics so I don't drop the post if something goes wrong with the upload, that or copy the message to my clipboard before posting.  It happens to everybody occasionally. 

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2013, 11:56:54 pm »
Thanks. I'll do that from now on. My laptop is pretty buggy (I need to reformat the drive & start from scratch...if I can only find my Windows 7 CD...), so I wouldn't b surprised if the problem occured at my end.

I'll try again.

I wanted to post my (meager) achievements since last time.

The Act-Labs RS Steering Wheel & 3 pedal set that I've been looking for forever arrived today. I've been looking for a long time, but was determined not to buy them from Act-Labs directly if I could find them used. Got a set that the seller claims were never used. Got an RS Shifter with them, unfortunately, as now I have 2 shifters. So for anyone who wants one, expect to c it on the buy/sell/trade soon, unless...hmmm. I may have just thot of another use for it.

I bought a Logitech Attack 3 joystick off ebay & it arrived today too, I plan to mod it to play 720 degrees, as I've discovered others have done here.

I'm working on an order of parts from ArcadeFixIt.com, who seem to be the only vendor left with everything I think I need to refurbish my Star Wars yoke (boy, I sure wish I'd gotten that rebuild kit from RAM...). Here's a loaded question: Do I have to replace the large springs (the torsion & handle springs)? They look fine, but I can't tell if they've lost any...springiness(?). Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding an old yoke & comparing old vs new springs?

& I'm working on cleaning up/organizing my 'work room'. Yes, I should have done this before I started on the yoke, but I couldn't make myself wait. My work room is small, & I've got the keep the fumes in there way down, but it'll do for electronics/computer prep/other small work.

Oh--& with electronics/soldering in mind, I (yes, ME) have a tip for other solder-ers out there that, correct me if I'm wrong, a lot don't know about. A few years ago I completed my 1st electronics project--a kvasar dream mask (google it, & b warned, its different. & I promptly sold it on ebay for $41). A problem that plagued me thru this project was keeping my soldering tips clean, despite my best efforts (yes, I used a sponge to clean between solder-ings, I used flux to prep the parts & otherwise tried to keep everything very clean). I finally spent a couple days doing research, & then bought a block of sal ammoniac off ebay. Amazing stuff. Simply work the hot soldering tip into the block & add some tin at the same time, & u get a perfectly clean, perfectly tinned tip, cleaner than the 1st time u used it. But wear a filtered mask--the fumes generated from this stuff r toxic.

Also, thanks for the tip concerning cleaning that spacer--I stayed away from paint stripper & tried the acetone--that got all the goo off except for a faint stain that was left behind. The parts look good.

Okay, now I'm going to try to post this, then edit it as Le Chuck suggests & add the photos. Wish me luck...

...Hmmm...I think I discovered the 1st problem: All my pics r over the minimum size. I'll have to try taking them again & playing with the res or something to get them down. Not that readers r missing much; they were of my 'work room', & of the yoke. I'll try to figure it out tomorrow. Everyday, however small, I'm going to try to accomplish something.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2013, 12:39:41 am by lcmgadgets »
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2013, 12:22:48 am »
Also keep in mind the directions for attachments:

Quote
Allowed file types: txt, jpg, gif, pdf, png, zip, rar, jpeg, skp, svg, ai, gif
Restrictions: 8 per post, maximum total size 5120KB, maximum individual size 2048KB

You may need to resize photos or adjust the resolution to make them fit.

If you try to link a file extension that isn't allowed, it will flush the whole thing when you click on "post" IIRC.


Scott

lcmgadgets

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2013, 12:48:33 am »
Also keep in mind the directions for attachments:

Quote
Allowed file types: txt, jpg, gif, pdf, png, zip, rar, jpeg, skp, svg, ai, gif
Restrictions: 8 per post, maximum total size 5120KB, maximum individual size 2048KB

You may need to resize photos or adjust the resolution to make them fit.

If you try to link a file extension that isn't allowed, it will flush the whole thing when you click on "post" IIRC.


Scott

U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #15 on: May 08, 2013, 01:53:09 am »
U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.

No need to adjust your camera, the easiest re-sizing you can do is just using Paint in Windows, open the jpeg in Paint, select Resize, select By: Pixels and then just type in the Horizontal value, the Vertical value will automatically adjust if you keep the Maintain aspect ratio checkbox ticked.  Save the resized image and you're away!  Set an image size of 640 x 480 for an easy to manage file size.   I'm betting your camera's lowest res would still be above 800 x 600.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #16 on: May 08, 2013, 03:39:53 am »
U hit on it; they're over the minimum size. They're jpeg's, though. I'll try fooling with the camara tomorrow.

No need to adjust your camera, the easiest re-sizing you can do is just using Paint in Windows, open the jpeg in Paint, select Resize, select By: Pixels and then just type in the Horizontal value, the Vertical value will automatically adjust if you keep the Maintain aspect ratio checkbox ticked.  Save the resized image and you're away!  Set an image size of 640 x 480 for an easy to manage file size.   I'm betting your camera's lowest res would still be above 800 x 600.

I agree about not adjusting the camera resolution too low.

With higher resolution, it's sometimes easier to crop for a detail shot like below than getting the macro focus to work right.  :banghead:     :angry: depth of field.

I usually use Windows Paint to crop and resize pics -- can't find a "resize" option in mine. (v 5.1 from XP SP3 install)   :dunno

The fastest way I've found to crop (1-4) and resize (5) in Windows Paint is to:

1. Use Ctrl-A to select all, drag-and-drop photo so the upper left corner is in place.

2. Click outside the selected area or change tools and change back to "select" to bring up the select crosshairs.

3. Use the crosshairs to determine desired size using X,Y coordinates displayed in the lower right.

4. Use Ctrl-E (Attributes) to set the horizontal and vertical size in pixels.

5. Use Ctrl-W (Stretch and Skew) to shrink it as needed.

NOTE: If an area of the image is selected during step 5, that portion will be resized but the overall image size will not change


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #17 on: May 08, 2013, 10:27:33 am »
Got some time in on swap panels here- let me know if you need any input on those.   8)

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2013, 01:42:27 pm »
Got some time in on swap panels here- let me know if you need any input on those.   8)

Oh, u can bet I'll b asking! I just don't know what to ask yet. But do u mean swappable panels, or a modular panel, like I'm intending (aka Doc's modular mame, or weisshaupt's Ghost in the Machine)?

& thanks for the suggestions concerning dealing with pics. Even as I'd made that comment about messing with the camara, I figured it'd b a heckuva lot easier to use a photo editor. Duh!
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #19 on: May 10, 2013, 12:01:08 am »
Okay, more meager accomplishments: Placed another order to GGG, after waiting for some info from RandyT. Once it arrives, I'll have all but 3 of the controls I want, the last being 2 positional rifles (Operation Wolf, Terminator), & a periscope.

...I've never seen a periscope made or modded for a project. Could this b the unique element of my cab?

...It's going just about as slowly as I figured it would. Don't hold your breath, guys.
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2013, 01:39:09 am »
It might be easier to make a separate cab for periscope games.   :dunno

Factors to consider:
Lateral forces and how to support the top/bottom (welded frame?)
Pivot points (8", 10" or 12" lazy suzan bearings?)
X-Axis movement only or X- and Y-Axis movement?
Will the periscope be removable?
Height adjustable scope or a step like Battlezone, Sea Wolf, Subroc-3D, etc.?



Be sure to include a pair of trigger sticks for Battlezone.   :w00t


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #21 on: May 10, 2013, 01:41:16 pm »
It might be easier to make a separate cab for periscope games.   :dunno

Factors to consider:
Lateral forces and how to support the top/bottom (welded frame?)
Pivot points (8", 10" or 12" lazy suzan bearings?)
X-Axis movement only or X- and Y-Axis movement?
Will the periscope be removable?
Height adjustable scope or a step like Battlezone, Sea Wolf, Subroc-3D, etc.?

Be sure to include a pair of trigger sticks for Battlezone.   :w00t

All your points r well taken. I doubt I'm going to have room/money for another cab. Certainly H' & I have the room right now, but 1 of the ideas I'm seriously considering to keep us afloat is to rent out the basement--then we're gonna b hurting for space. This is kinduv a 1 shot deal, which is why I'm shooting so high. The periscope was an old thot that managed to get past my inner censor & into the post before I could catch it. I really haven't done enuf work on the idea. I had imagined something removable (modular). ...I suppose a welded frame would probably b the way to go...something that would be attached via some kinduv quick release...I'd originally 1/4 conceived a hood-like affair that would hang over the top of the cab, but the lcd marquee I want will b in the way...& on top of making sure its secure & functional, I still want to make it & the cab look good...well, back to the drawing board. :dunno

Battlezone--I loved that game & it just isn't the same without your face pressed into that scope, watching that ghostly green field & the sweep of the radar...damn, I've gotta make it happen somehow. & those trigger sticks--what'd u end up using? I'm considering a top-fire mod for my u360's combined with a modded grip (I'm also considering a mod to screw a Tron handle onto a u360).

But more immediately, I gotta figure out what went wrong with my GGG order. My credit card was denied, for reasons I can't imagine. Later...
"Godzilla is a warning. A warning to each and every one of us. When mankind falls into conflict with nature, monsters are born."
Professor Hayashida

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #22 on: May 10, 2013, 01:45:16 pm »
Subscribed.

AJ

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #23 on: May 10, 2013, 11:26:46 pm »
Got some more cleaning/organizing done of the workroom done. Should have been done years ago.  :banghead: I'm getting a big small stuff organizer soon--something to sort all these damn screws, nails, bolts, nuts, washers, etc., etc., etc., & a board & hooks to organize all these tools--this's nuts.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #24 on: May 10, 2013, 11:37:37 pm »
I can't find Nephs quote of another great poster here but it goes along these lines...

”Cleaning up your workspace does not constitute an update”

Now welcome to the club you're officially a cab builder having received this verbal spanking.

Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #25 on: May 11, 2013, 12:45:38 am »
I suppose a welded frame would probably b the way to go...something that would be attached via some kinduv quick release...I'd originally 1/4 conceived a hood-like affair that would hang over the top of the cab, but the lcd marquee I want will b in the way...& on top of making sure its secure & functional, I still want to make it & the cab look good...well, back to the drawing board. :dunno
I figured that you were talking about removable panels, so design a removable panel with a superstructure that's a few inches shorter than the marquee.

This thread on electric panel latches might give you some good ideas.

An H-shaped frame on the right and left with a rectangle on the top that has the upper lazy susan bearing bolted/welded to it.

The lower bearing can rest on the CP.

Leave enough distance from the periscope to the monitor so you can see properly.

You can probably add a 1/4" clear polycarb/acrylic sheet as a cross-brace on the back for stability.

Handle on the top near the front to lift the panel out + skids on the underside of the panel to avoid damaging the underside + a 6' USB cable to connect the encoders on the panel to the system.

1/8" hardboard skin is lightweight and will allow artwork with submarine/tank controls/indicators to cover the superstructure and make it all purdy-like.

those trigger sticks--what'd u end up using?



You can get them at Paradise (Import Flight Stick) or Ultimarc (MiniGrip).

The LS-32 switch mod is a nice little addition -- you may need to tune the lever arms a bit for proper response, but the clickiness is greatly reduced.

Seimitsu LS-32 and Zippyy Joystick upgrade kit


Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.

Naw. . . he's in the design phase, so it's sketch time.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2013, 11:04:47 pm »
I can't find Nephs quote of another great poster here but it goes along these lines...

”Cleaning up your workspace does not constitute an update”

Now welcome to the club you're officially a cab builder having received this verbal spanking.

Now go screw two things together and post a picture of it.
:lol Yeah, I thot so too. I wanted to post SOMETHING, so that it would keep me moving. But yeah, I'm wasting time & space by posting that crap. Next post will b of things screwed together, or google sketchups.

By the way, I DID do some pretty good (read: overly thorough) sketchups of several of the controls I've bought. All in the warehouse, under the name 'lcmgadgets' for anyone interested.

& again, thanks for the ideas. I'll b checking them out. Keep 'em comin'.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #27 on: May 12, 2013, 11:22:21 pm »
Does anyone know if the periscopes in those dedicated cabs (sea wolf, battle shark, sea wolf II, sub hunter, etc,) were simple positional (2 or 4 way) or analog controllers? I seem to recall that the battle shark yoke turned in 4 directions like the Star Wars yoke, but that the cross hair moved across the screen at the same speed no matter how far or hard u cranked those controls.

I'm looking carefully at that periscope on Battle Shark. That doesn't look too hard to replicate. Maybe some big pvc pipe....
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #28 on: May 13, 2013, 12:28:33 am »
Verified via the Input settings menu on MAME:

Battle Shark - 2-axis, analog (Yes, it does limit the speed your crosshairs can move)
Depthcharge / Sub Hunter - No periscope, 1-axis, not analog
Destroyer (Atari 1977) - Y-axis analog, 2 buttons (depth charge, speed)
Sea Wolf - 1-axis, analog
Sea Wolf II - 2 single-axis analog periscopes
Subroc-3D - 2-axis, not analog
Turbo Sub - 2-axis, analog (Used a SW yoke)

Other submarine-type games to consider: (copied from one of the .dat files)
Invinco / Deep Scan
Minesweeper
Subs
Wolf Pack
Fire One
HeliFire
N-Sub
Navarone
Polaris
Tomahawk 777
Battle of Atlantis
Mariner
Battle Cruiser M-12
Submarine
Up Scope
The Deep
Sauro
Guts n' Glory (Depth Charge + Submarine)
In The Hunt


Scott
« Last Edit: May 13, 2013, 12:30:20 am by PL1 »

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #29 on: May 13, 2013, 10:18:44 pm »
Thanks, Scott! 1 of these days, I'm really gonna study MAME & figure it out. I use it, but I really learned only enuf to get it to run the games, capture some video, & that was it.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #30 on: May 13, 2013, 11:10:02 pm »
Just snag a GUI version of MAME like MAMEUIFX, progetto snaps art files, and history.dat+mameinfo.dat.

The GUI makes it easy to search for games, see parent/clone groups, read the history.dat info and view pics.

Protip: On View - Show Pictures, deselect History and on the Interface Option menu, Show History on Tab = Snapshot.  This puts the snapshot and history together on one tab.


Scott

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #31 on: August 26, 2013, 10:05:54 am »
Sigh.

It's been more than 3 months, & my hint of work space still isn't ready yet. Sorry I've wasted your time, guys. I know I'll get back to this eventually, but a snail's pace would b rocketing for me. & I've got some other priorities I've got to take care of first, like getting my basement overhauled & converted into an apartment, & rented out, before we run out of money. & there will always b all the issues involving my son--the one staring me in the face right now is if he can make it in public school this time, or if I'm going to have to continue/ramp up the homeschooling.

So don't expect much here. I'll never come anywhere near matching the pace of those of u who have actually managed to complete anything. & yeah, I could ramp my plans down; shoot for something a bit easier to accomplish, but I know I'll feel like I copped out if I shoot for anything less than the big pretty cab with the rotating monitor, LCD marquee, modular control panels, & lit up t-molding.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #32 on: August 26, 2013, 11:30:33 am »
I know I'll feel like I copped out if I shoot for anything less than the big pretty cab with the rotating monitor, LCD marquee, modular control panels, & lit up t-molding.

Ask yourself this- do you need all that to play the games you like? If you don't, it's all extra. You don't need to feel let down if you decide those things aren't necessary.  :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #33 on: August 26, 2013, 11:34:47 am »
Ask yourself this- do you need all that to play the games you like? If you don't, it's all extra. You don't need to feel let down if you decide those things aren't necessary.  :cheers:

^^^^ This. Do you want to enjoy some arcade games with classic controls or do you want to build a huge show piece? Both are valid endeavors, but don't get them mixed up if you don't need to.

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #34 on: August 26, 2013, 12:23:56 pm »
Griff brings up good points. Decide what you want it to be and commit. There's a lot a great showcase builds here, but there are also a ton of outstanding simple classic builds that would be at home in any arcade or showplace (Echo Base always comes to mind is and probably my favorite scratch build of all time). Make what you want, not what you think will impress others- it's not an arms race.  ;D
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #35 on: October 01, 2013, 12:24:55 pm »
Okay, I'm back. Sorry about the whine earlier. Work room ready, & I've started modding the Star Wars yoke & dual strike pcb. Had a heckuva time getting the wires de soldered off the dual strike--may want to drill out the remaining crap in at least 1 hole for a clean insert of the new wire. Got the wire I need (I have a lot of 18awg but needed finer for this). Didn't realize it wasn't copper stranded until I started, but it soldered nice to the pot & I'm going to go ahead & use it unless someone thinks that's a big mistake.

Do you want to enjoy some arcade games with classic controls or do you want to build a huge show piece? Both are valid endeavors, but don't get them mixed up if you don't need to.

Both, but with a more serious lean toward playability, customizable controls, & the ability to play a lot of games. Thanks for this, guys. I'm recommitted. & a reminder/warning--this is gonna b 1 long, glacially slow build. Not a 1st for me--I once spent 2 years completing a 'kvasar lucid dream induction mask'--a project that most of you could complete in a week.

I'll post some pics of my 1st moves later--gotta go pick up my son.
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #36 on: October 01, 2013, 10:22:41 pm »
Omg, I've got some actual progress to report.

Using 1UP's wonderful write up on the dual strike hack, I disassembled--okay, okay, I actually disassembled it years ago (literally)--1 of my 2 dual strikes, desoldered the pot connections to it (using braid & wiggling, &, as 1UP points out, its still a tough job), and soldered wire to the 2 new pots I received from...I think it was arcadefixit. For a change, the soldering went well & quickly. No burnt fingers or damaged parts (I think--I'm going to test the pots again before I install them), the solder melted & flowed smoothly, my joints look good, & I only got a little flux on my hands. As I've said many times, I hate soldering. I do everything right--I clean my parts, tin the wire, use flux everywhere, & clean my soldering tip (with sal ammoniac, even), & yet its always a struggle for me. Partly, I think, because I use lead-free solder.

I like heat shrink tubing, too. I have 2 diameters on the pots--a narrow one for the wire, & a wider one overlapping the wire & covering the contacts on the pots themselves.

I've soldered the pots to the opposite ends of the same coils of wire (they're 10' long each, I think. Or is it 5'?). This is another thing I've always struggled with--where do u cut the wire? I've ended up with unwanted loops in the past, or butt connectors or soldered in xtra lengths of wire to make up for using too much/not enuf. I suppose I could solve a lot of that by using terminal blocks between the dual strike pcb & the pots...but does anyone have any ideas?

(Oh, & yes, thats a print out of 1UP's hack in the top pic, & an ipad with another image from the same wonderful site in the other. I've learned to constantly double check against what you're stealing/working from)
« Last Edit: October 01, 2013, 10:28:45 pm by lcmgadgets »
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #37 on: October 02, 2013, 09:45:57 am »
I like the colorful heat shrink.  I always just use black but I need to see if I can pick up some colors. 

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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #38 on: October 02, 2013, 12:17:42 pm »
Somehow I thought it necessary to use the same colour heat shrink as the wire  :dunno. Now I like clear, partly because someone here described a cheap but purdy wire labelling method using clear--I've forgotten how, but I think if I look thru my past posts...
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Re: Gulp. Here goes. Time to commit to: Project Legacy
« Reply #39 on: October 02, 2013, 12:50:13 pm »
It was here in DaOld Man's A Little Rage thread.

He used a shrink wrap printer, I suggested a paper label secured with scotch tape.

Print the label on paper, trim to size and affix using scotch tape.

Leave enough of a header to get a solid grip (>1 wrap) on the wire then wrap tightly for 1 or 2 layers more and trim with scissors so the tail ends up opposite of the printing and neat.

When printing and trimming, ensure that the paper won't wrap around so far that it covers the text.

You can also do this flag-style, but that way is more likely to snag.

Pic shows 14 point Times New Roman text and 22 gauge wire.




Scott

  
 

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