1st build. System-3.0

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Ladies & Gents hello to you all.

First id like to just say I have browsed these forums for some months now mostly in Awe at your work. Some of the cabs & projects on these boards are works of art.

I have taken the decision to make my very first Cab. I have an engineering degree and years of experience in electronics but that isn't helping me decide what direction to take. I have already spent around 500.00 British pounds on kit but im struggling to come up with clear direction.

Would your advice be to start small Bar top or just for the Full size cab??.

Let me tell you what I have bought.

3 x 8ft by 4ft 3/4 plywood and dowel fixings I want no screws in the cab at all.
2 x full jamma harness
2 x Jamma Pcu,s
19 inch Acer Lcd screen (already had)
2 x Happ perfect 360 sticks
20 x sanwa obfc buttons + 1p and 2p
1x 20m roll pure oxygen free carbon fibre wrap.
1 x Jamma 138 in 1 game board
1 x jamma Just Another Pandora's Box 310 in 1 game board.
1 x Audio Amp pcb.
1 set of Sony explode 4 in speakers.
1 set of Sony 2 inch tweeters.
oxygen free cable

And all the usual glues and fixings.

Now I don't want to be seen as a copy cat and just rip someone's design off but were do I start?
Would you look at other bar tops and take the lead from there and come up with my own design?.

Any advice and ideas would be much appreciated. 

Thanks

[Falk3r]

Hard for anyone to tell you what you'd like, but it sounds like you'd be compromising your dream for a lower-risk bartop sized unit. If you have the space for it, go full-sized.

Alternatively, if you're set on using a 19" monitor... maybe a bartop is more appropriate.

Why do you want to use no screws?

[z-kun]

I don't have experience building cabs (... well... except for a model one that's made out of foam core and hot glue, and that's not even done yet XD), but I can tell you what I've seen, at least. I've seen people do all sorts of cabs for their first cab, from bar tops to full sized. So just about any size is doable for a newbie. (Granted, one size might be easier than others; I don't know.)

As for design, at least some people don't mind if you base it off of their design, especially if you ask. In fact, I saw a thread by OND that was a full tutorial on how to make a full sized cab, and includes diagrams for people to use and is designed to be easy to understand for people who have never made a cab before. I've also seen people openly admit to being inspired by other designs.

Also, several people use designs based off of official cabinets.

So for the most part, as long as you're citing where you got the ideas from and ask permission when in doubt, you should be good in terms of designs.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Why do you want to use no screws?

I hate seeing screws id rather use glue and dowel fixings even if it takes more time to get right. I have a precision dowel fitting kit so thought why not.

I think the bar top is the way to start just to get me into building and putting together a cab. But I defo want a full size Galaga replica, ive been trying to find a mint for a long time. But cant seem to get anyone to part with one, So I guess its time to build my own. Maybe I should run Two builds side by side. ?

[Felsir]

Judging by what you've already bought, I'd say go full size. Get a bigger monitor and you're set.

Most people have no problem if their design inspired you, especially if you mention it (or ask). My first cab was based on the Centipede cab- you can find plans and dimensions for it and other cabinets here: http://www.jakobud.com/plan-list.php

[Falk3r]

Hiding Screws:
Counter-sink the screw and recess the screw-head (subflush). Then either put a laminate over the top and you'll never see it... or backfill with wood puddy, sand, and paint -- again, you'll never see it.

Soooo much easier than trying to pin every joint.

Two builds at the same time? Recipe for disaster, for the rest of us mere mortals. You might have more luck, if you don't have school/a job/a family/other hobbies/etc. Find the dimensions of your full-size Galaga cabinet you want to build and dive in.

[Gamester]

I hate seeing screws id rather use glue and dowel fixings even if it takes more time to get right. I have a precision dowel fitting kit so thought why not.

If you design and finish the cab correctly you won't see any screws anyway.  I used screws exclusively on my build (no glue, dowels or any other type of fastener), and you can't see a single screw in the finished product.   Unless you're just really intent on learning how to do it with dowels exclusively, I say there is no reason to unnecessarily complicate the process by avoiding screws.

I think the bar top is the way to start just to get me into building and putting together a cab. But I defo want a full size Galaga replica, ive been trying to find a mint for a long time. But cant seem to get anyone to part with one, So I guess its time to build my own. Maybe I should run Two builds side by side. ?

It's clear you're conflicted, as you are almost contradicting yourself here.  You start by saying that you probably need to start with a bar top to get your feet wet, then you finish by suggesting possibly doing a side-by-side build...

Sounds to me like you really want a full-size cab.  I agree with the others that you should just do a full-size!  Other than the obvious difference in size of the surfaces, the build process itself isn't really that much different, and in some ways, building a bar-top can actually be more complicated.  If your heart is really set on having a full-size Galaga style cab, then by all means BUILD IT!  We're all here to help you along... 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Sounds to me like you really want a full-size cab.  I agree with the others that you should just do a full-size!  Other than the obvious difference in size of the surfaces, the build process itself isn't really that much different, and in some ways, building a bar-top can actually be more complicated.  If your heart is really set on having a full-size Galaga style cab, then by all means BUILD IT!  We're all here to help you along... 

And the help will be very much appreciated. Looking at all the other posts ive been watching for months I knew this was the place to come for help and advice. Gamester you have convinced me to make a full size Galaga replica. Now im buzzing. Im going to build a bar top first though just to get my feet wet and get used to linking the buttons sticks and boards up. Then on to the Galaga Cab.

So comes the next question. Is plywood the way to go as ive spent 150 quid on it already?. Also for the full size replica what screen size? And type?.

And can I get a Galaga Jamma board or would I have to buy An all in one version.

[z-kun]

Plywood should be okay; it seems like most people use either plywood or MDF, but apparently MDF is INSANELY dusty when you cut it.

[Gamester]

So comes the next question. Is plywood the way to go as ive spent 150 quid on it already?.

Yep, your 3/4 ply will work fine, and looks like you've got plenty of it.

Also for the full size replica what screen size? And type?.

This is where you need to ask yourself some questions: 

1. How important is it that the display look authentic? 
2. What's your budget for a display?

And can I get a Galaga Jamma board or would I have to buy An all in one version.

I'm not aware of any Jamma boards that do Galaga only.  But I say, why limit yourself?  A multiboard will give you lots of play options.  Which goes back to the previous point:  why not just skip the bartop and use all these parts you've already paid for on a full size cab?  You don't have to build a bartop to learn how to hook up buttons and switches (which is actually much easier than you think, especially considering your electronics background)!

[sabreerbasAlpha]

This is where you need to ask yourself some questions: 

1. How important is it that the display look authentic? 
2. What's your budget for a display?

Pretty much what ever goes!!

I'm not aware of any Jamma boards that do Galaga only.  But I say, why limit yourself?  A multiboard will give you lots of play options.  Which goes back to the previous point:  why not just skip the bartop and use all these parts you've already paid for on a full size cab?  You don't have to build a bartop to learn how to hook up buttons and switches (which is actually much easier than you think, especially considering your electronics background)!

The bar top? well I sort of opened my mouth and promised to make my son one. something he hasn't let me forget  Which is why I purchased the multi jamma boards. The Galaga is a go though.  I'm going to clear the garage on Saturday and make a start marking up some ply and making some cuts. My son loves the old Hyper sports and track and field games. He's only 8 and as retro as his dad 

[z-kun]

This is where you need to ask yourself some questions: 

1. How important is it that the display look authentic? 
2. What's your budget for a display?

Pretty much what ever goes!!

In which case, you might want to consider an LCD screen because they're lighter, can be easier to find, and possibly cheaper. And if you want, you can make the cabinet a little less deep so it takes up less space, if space is a concern.

[eds1275]

If you are doing a full size build based on an original cabinet, you may as well go with a CRT for authenticity (and nothing is as authentic as 350 lbs!); I opted to build a full height, half deep cabinet so I am using an lcd screen.

[Gamester]

Pretty much what ever goes!!

If that's the case, I'd definitely say go with CRT.  There's just no comparison visually.  Plus most of the LCD's these days that would be big enough are widescreen, and Galaga, which is your priority, is a vertical game.  So with an LCD you either have the issue of a vertical game with lots of unused screen real estate on each side, or one that looks oddly too tall if you flip the screen vertical.  A CRT will look and play exactly like the real thing.

I'll have to defer to others on this forum to tell you the best place(s) to source a CRT arcade monitor on your side of the pond.

The bar top? well I sort of opened my mouth and promised to make my son one. something he hasn't let me forget  Which is why I purchased the multi jamma boards. The Galaga is a go though.  I'm going to clear the garage on Saturday and make a start marking up some ply and making some cuts. My son loves the old Hyper sports and track and field games. He's only 8 and as retro as his dad 

Ahh, the fixation on a bartop is all making sense now!  Well, you definitely can't let the little guy down.    I'm proud for you that he's into the retro gaming.  Just proves that truly good games are timeless.   

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Pretty much what ever goes!!

If that's the case, I'd definitely say go with CRT.  There's just no comparison visually.  Plus most of the LCD's these days that would be big enough are widescreen, and Galaga, which is your priority, is a vertical game.  So with an LCD you either have the issue of a vertical game with lots of unused screen real estate on each side, or one that looks oddly too tall if you flip the screen vertical.  A CRT will look and play exactly like the real thing.

I'll have to defer to others on this forum to tell you the best place(s) to source a CRT arcade monitor on your side of the pond.

The bar top? well I sort of opened my mouth and promised to make my son one. something he hasn't let me forget  Which is why I purchased the multi jamma boards. The Galaga is a go though.  I'm going to clear the garage on Saturday and make a start marking up some ply and making some cuts. My son loves the old Hyper sports and track and field games. He's only 8 and as retro as his dad 

Ahh, the fixation on a bartop is all making sense now!  Well, you definitely can't let the little guy down.    I'm proud for you that he's into the retro gaming.  Just proves that truly good games are timeless.   

yes while most kids are into ps3 Xbox which he has, he is never off his TV plugin PAC MAN & GALAGA which he owns me on.  so I said id build him a little machine which I will. ill start to post up pictures of my progress soon. in the mean time can anybody offer up some CRT advice were to get one best price ETC for the full size CAB. and remember im in the UK. 

[Drnick]

For the CRT you can try the following.  Looks like he has a fair old selection of sizes available.

http://www.videotronicsuk.com/

[sublimejhn]

I went with a full sized cabinet based on the Galaga style cabs for my first build. Just follow the jakobud template and it is fairly straight forward.
http://www.jakobud.com/plan.php?id=12

Here's the link to my build, maybe it will help some- http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129469.0.html

I made mine 4" wider than the original to accommodate 2 players and a trackball, and I went with a horizontal LCD, but it's the same general build otherwise. I didn't even have anywhere near the experience you have when I built mine, I am pretty bad at most things that involve any sort of creativity, so I'm sure yours will turn out great. Good luck!

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I went with a full sized cabinet based on the Galaga style cabs for my first build. Just follow the jakobud template and it is fairly straight forward.
http://www.jakobud.com/plan.php?id=12

Here's the link to my build, maybe it will help some- http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129469.0.html

I made mine 4" wider than the original to accommodate 2 players and a trackball, and I went with a horizontal LCD, but it's the same general build otherwise. I didn't even have anywhere near the experience you have when I built mine, I am pretty bad at most things that involve any sort of creativity, so I'm sure yours will turn out great. Good luck!

Thanks. So many great comments on these boards. This really is a helpful community. Thanks for al the help and advice everyone. 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Guys some advice please.

As I've already posted I have purchased a 138 in 1 Jamma Pcu for my sons Machine but cant help thinking maybe I should be doing a pc build.

As building Pcs is Second nature to me that's not an issue. However the Emu`s are a bit of a mine field for me. Can you give me some advice on the following for Hyper spin Mame coin ops etc. etc.
1.Is it difficult to get it installed.
2.What about how smooth it runs.
3. what will it cost me if anything for these programs?
4. do I have to subscribe to any.
5 What would recommend ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[sublimejhn]

Guys some advice please.

As I've already posted I have purchased a 138 in 1 Jamma Pcu for my sons Machine but cant help thinking maybe I should be doing a pc build.

As building Pcs is Second nature to me that's not an issue. However the Emu`s are a bit of a mine field for me. Can you give me some advice on the following for Hyper spin Mame coin ops etc. etc.
1.Is it difficult to get it installed.
2.What about how smooth it runs.
3. what will it cost me if anything for these programs?
4. do I have to subscribe to any.
5 What would recommend ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I'm typing this on my phone, so bare with me, but I'll try to answer some of these questions. I run hyper spin on my cab, with mame, demul, Daphne and a few other arcade emulators. My cab is strictly arcade and virtual pinball games only, since I'd rather have console emulators on the tv as that's the way they were meant to be played.

Mame is very easy to setup in hyperspin, some of the other emulators can be a pain but nothing too difficult. The hyper spin forums have a lot of info and you will find answers to all your questions there. The most difficult part of mame is getting the right romsets, but once you figure out the parent/clone thing its pretty easy.

All programs are free, but you may find with hyper spin that you want a membership. A platinum membership will get you hyper sync, and will automatically download all your themes and videos for your games. I've been downloading all mine manually since I have only downloaded the games I want on my cab, but I will probably get a membership soon since not all the themes are posted on hyperspins site.

 Hopefully that helps, I personally think PC is the way to go since you aren't as limited on what games you can have on your cab

[sabreerbasAlpha]

thanks for the reply sublimejhn . Do I need to update/change my graphics card in my current pc to run  side mame/hyperspin?. when I put it in the cab?  I currently have 2x sli NVidia Gtx cards, Do I need to change a different brand? IE ATI or something. I really am a noob when it comes to EMU`s  I Have noticed an ATI Arcade card on several sites? . But bare in mind im using an Lcd in the build.

Thanks again.

[dandro]

Since you are using an Acer LCD screen, you'll just be connecting that directly to the PC as normal I believe. The tricky stuff with video cards comes more into play when you try to connect them up to a CRT/Arcade monitor, which I am doing. Then you have to deal with frequency issues, which is what that Arcade VGA card helps deal with. I often see people who build there own cabs, invest in a Scan Line Generator to get that old school look on an LCD screen, but I have - 50 experience with that one.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Since you are using an Acer LCD screen, you'll just be connecting that directly to the PC as normal I believe. The tricky stuff with video cards comes more into play when you try to connect them up to a CRT/Arcade monitor, which I am doing. Then you have to deal with frequency issues, which is what that Arcade VGA card helps deal with. I often see people who build there own cabs, invest in a Scan Line Generator to get that old school look on an LCD screen, but I have - 50 experience with that one.

Thanks Dandro. By the way I have checked out your pirates build last night. 1 word. sweeeet.

So what advice would you give for the controls since I have all the Jamma parts what converters would I need to connect to my Jamma cable to control Mame .. If I go down the PC Build route..

Thanks again...

[dandro]

I went the route of a JPAC primarily because of the video issues as I mentioned above. However, I think when you have no video concerns, the norm is an IPAC from Ulitmarc here:
http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html.

Thank you on the kind comment on my build. First one and having a blast doing it. I think the hardest part is looking at it everyday wondering what part to tackle next since there are so many parts.. lol

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I went the route of a JPAC primarily because of the video issues as I mentioned above. However, I think when you have no video concerns, the norm is an IPAC from Ulitmarc here:
http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html.

Thanks ill check that out..

Thank you on the kind comment on my build. First one and having a blast doing it. I think the hardest part is looking at it everyday wondering what part to tackle next since there are so many parts.. lol

Well im about to start one or two but not at the same time. My first build is going to be a 138 in 1 jamma bartop for my son. Then its onto something I've always wanted since I was a kid. A full size Galaga machine. Its going to be so sweet.  The build wont be an issue as my background as an engineer will hold me in good stead, im lucky enough to own my own company also so ill have a bit of extra time here and there to sneak off. But I cant hide the fact the wonderful world of arcade controls is all new to me. But I have to say the community on here and other sites has been awesome. The help and advice is endless and you cant buy that anywhere.. Thanks again mate.. And thanks to all that I know will help me along with my first few builds..

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So I've started to sketch out the Bar top design. Nothing you all haven't seen before to be honest but its my first build so im starting small and taking my time. The cab will house a 17inch flat Monitor. amplified 180 watt speakers Usb inputs and 138 in 1 Jamma board.

The theme im not to sure about at the minute but that will come in time.

Hope you like the few pics.

Sketching out the basic design.


Top panel with bare speakers.


with covers. Infinity Fli 180 watt


Some Button action


Jamma board 138 in 1


How many wires?


And for some power.


That's it for now. Ill start sketching out the rest of the panels tomorrow and then start making some very straight cuts and finally crack open the Router.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Forgot to ask. Does anybody know were I can get a little plexi bender that isn't mega priced or crazy shipping. 

And apologies for image shack. know better now 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

We have had a few nice days here in the UK. Summer is on the way hopefully. I decided to use the time and get the second side of the bar top cut and start on the top and the front of the control panel.


Control panel angled with router and smoothed.



Second side cut with The router Flush bit.




So as I said in my first post I really didn't want to be screwing this thing together all over the place. But having fixed the dowels in the control panel front and top piece to be honest it took ages to get it right. I guess I could keep going this way but I may end up throwing the odd screw in it just to save a bit of time. Haven't done dowel work for a long time to be honest but its coming back to me.





So that's about were I am at the minute. Ill fit the base and top piece tomorrow and fit the speakers. The back door is causing me some issues at the minute but ill crack it.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So having got pretty far into my first build it suddenly dawned on me that it just wasn't big enough for what I wanted to do. 

So I scrapped the first build or should I say put it to one side & went big with a new direction. I've purchased a 19 inch Samsung screen that has great viewing angles, I viewed it in our local PC World and had to get one, Luckily I found a brand new one on eBay that was still in the box with the guarantee for under 45 pound so I had to have it.

I've scrapped the initial Jamma products which are collecting dust and im going for a full on PC Build with a twist, but ill keep that under wrap's for now. Any way I've thrown up a few pics for you to look at.

Id just like to add also that reading and going through all your builds with you all has been no end of help and inspiration Thanks.



side on with counter sunk screws, The cab will eventually have laminated sides.



The screen will be finished off with some nice 5MM Tinted Plexi


The screen bezel to house the 19 Inch screen, Which will be secured a little differently with webbing straps and locking clips to keep it nice and tight.



Test fitting the screen. Fits like a glove 



That's about were I am up to now. Its moving along nicely  Next week I will work on CP Which I haven't finished designing yet 

[jdbailey1206]

Forgot to ask. Does anybody know were I can get a little plexi bender that isn't mega priced or crazy shipping. 

And apologies for image shack. know better now 

Hey Saber.  Not sure exactly what you are referencing with  a "plexi bender" but this is what Le Chuck did to bend the plexi over his CP.  (I assume this is what you are trying to accomplish.)   http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116602.0.html  (halfway down the page.)

Not sure if you have any big box hardware stores across the pond but this is what you will need.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS3000KC-Self-Igniting-Torch-Kit-330879/203368720?N=bqoo#.UaeNq0B9CSo

Plexi glass is really easy to work with just take your time and if you are concerned about messing up just get a larger piece of plexi and practice.

Here in the US we also can get our hands on a plexi glass cutter for around $5 or even a dremel will work.  I used a plexi glass cutter for mine.  It takes longer but you get no melting where you cut and you don't need to sand off the "nerds" in the end. 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Forgot to ask. Does anybody know were I can get a little plexi bender that isn't mega priced or crazy shipping. 

And apologies for image shack. know better now 

Hey Saber.  Not sure exactly what you are referencing with  a "plexi bender" but this is what Le Chuck did to bend the plexi over his CP.  (I assume this is what you are trying to accomplish.)   http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116602.0.html  (halfway down the page.)

Not sure if you have any big box hardware stores across the pond but this is what you will need.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS3000KC-Self-Igniting-Torch-Kit-330879/203368720?N=bqoo#.UaeNq0B9CSo

Plexi glass is really easy to work with just take your time and if you are concerned about messing up just get a larger piece of plexi and practice.

Here in the US we also can get our hands on a plexi glass cutter for around $5 or even a dremel will work.  I used a plexi glass cutter for mine.  It takes longer but you get no melting where you cut and you don't need to sand off the "nerds" in the end.

Thanks for the Help mate. I was referring to a purpose built bender which is for sale on amazon.com but not on the uk site which sucks. I could build my own I guess with a couple of old hair dryers ], plenty of how to vids on you tube. I've looked in awe to be honest at most of Le Chucks work and I have seen his Plexi bending with the Gas bottle, I guess if I was slow enough and took my time it would be pretty good.

So im looking at using 1/2 inch MDF On the CP with 6mm Plexi to make up the 3/4. Any advice on bending 6mm or is there another way to go.?
 
I want to bend two pieces of plexi with a piece over the top and then over the back wrapped into the rear which is pretty ambitious looking at it but I guess its just a case of time and heat control?

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small update today. Cut the front panel today and test fitted some P1 & P2 Buttons Then rounded the bottom piece to Avoid it looking squire at the front.




Idk the two buttons look lost  ill have to add something else to this panel I think.



I also managed to mark up the speakers that fit very nice, I Routed the holes using a home jig. I didn't just want to drill a thousand holes for the speaker panel so I added the speaker cases which will fit in very nice with the overall theme of the Cab. And they sound amazing through the amp. 





That's it for tonight, I am going to work on the CP next week and look at adding the USB panel to the rear which is on its from the USA as I type. ill look to fix the LCD panel and start on the marquee hopefully. Night all. 

[Ond]

Your woodwork looks nice and clean, I make similar pencil scribblings over everything when I'm working too!

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Your woodwork looks nice and clean, I make similar pencil scribblings over everything when I'm working too!

Thanks Ond I really appreciate that  I also have a very worrying obsession with sanding.  She's coming on nicely and for my first build I have to say not too shabby either. really enjoying it also 

[a1pharm]

Your cab looks great! I like that you didn't use a 90deg interior corner at the bend between the screen and marquee block (this will make T-molding application easier).  The only criticism:

Those speaker covers don't match the cab.  Take a look at Martijn's cab (or mine - I copied his for the most part) speaker grills.  The are easy to create, and actually look like they belong in an arcade cab.

I would have to see this beauty finished up, and being unable to stop gawking at those car speaker covers.

Again, I want to stress you are doing a great job 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

  The only criticism:

Those speaker covers don't match the cab.  Take a look at Martijn's cab (or mine - I copied his for the most part) speaker grills.  The are easy to create, and actually look like they belong in an arcade cab.

I would have to see this beauty finished up, and being unable to stop gawking at those car speaker covers.

Again, I want to stress you are doing a great job 

Mmm I have to say after looking at the pictures again last night I agree the The speaker covers look out of place The looked pretty good last night, but on further inspection I agree and now I don't like them.

I am going to go with your idea of the grill type cover. Something like this

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mesh-Woven-Wire-Stainless-Steel/dp/B00B6CBMR6/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1370101204&sr=8-32&keywords=wire+mesh

Thanks for your other comments a1pharm. I really appreciate it.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Forgot to add. look what arrived. Id also like to say a big thanks to JON of the Kade team for sorting out my issue. No thanks to royal mail 

Loving the KADE..

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small Update.

Got the rear door squared up and the temp hinges added. I have some power coated black hinges that are going on, But for now these will do.




I routed out the Hinge position with a straight router bit. The actual hinges I will use are about 5mm bigger and will sit nice and flush. These hinges are just for a work in progress and to allow me to work on the rear door with it attached.


The rear door will have a plexi centre piece that will be neon lit,

And here is the inspiration for my build. My little princess Laila. Her two big brothers have all pcs and ps3s and Xbox's so im building this for her. Her brothers will be so mad. lol 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small Update

Finally managed to get the control panel cut. I wanted a nice curve to the front so I was wondering what to do  Then I realised I had the old LCD TV base in the shed. I took it to pieces and used the bottom piece to cut a nice curve in the front of the control panel.




I've routed a small angled gap to the underside of the control panel to allow me to rest the bezel plexi on it. The plexi will sit nice and snug once fitted.


Here's a small piece of plexi in place to demonstrate what im talking about.


And that's that. Im off to Holland tomorrow at 3am for a family Holiday so ill catch you all next week. Have fun all 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small Update

I extended the front panel and raised it by 3/4 of an inch, Then filled and smoothed the join, Not that there was one but just to make it very smooth and clean I filled it anyway. Ill sand it down at a later date. I had miss judged the gap 




so the CP sits nice and flush now.


I will bevel the bottom of the control panel which is made from 3/4 Mdf and then add 3mm plexi to the control panel and finish it off with T Moulding.

Until next time 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small Update

Got the power switch fitted today to the rear.


From the inside of the cab I fabricated a small cover for the power switch, With two holes for the power cables in and out. I didn't just want to leave it looking ugly from the inside even though I will never see it id know it was there.


As I mentioned a few posts ago I didn't like the speaker setup I had so I have totally redone it today. Cutting a new speaker panel and then using a 3/8 groove bit I routed out a recess for the speaker mesh to sit in. I am fabricating two custom speaker holders that will sit over the top of the two holes and hold the speakers in place But they are not finished yet. Very tricky and time consuming work.



The screw holes are for the custom brackets.
And the centre will house the audio Amp which will also sit indie a custom built holder.


With the panel in position.
Two Fans will sit above the speakers as the marquee area will house a lot of led strip lights so I need to keep the heat down.


The back edge of the speaker panel will have a slight groove routed into it to house the bezel plexi glass. 4mm which will be edge lit.



And that was that for today. See you soon...

[Hornet]

Hi sabreerbasAlpha, your doing a cracking job there! Nice to see small finishing details like the cable cover, it shows your enjoying this build and only the best will do. Great work 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Hi sabreerbasAlpha, your doing a cracking job there! Nice to see small finishing details like the cable cover, it shows your enjoying this build and only the best will do. Great work 

Thanks mate. Yes I'm really enjoying the build your right. I do have a tendency to be ultra picky about things but hopefully that wont take over during the build ..Anyway coming up next will be custom speaker housing and a custom Amp housing for the speakers.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small Update

Not much progress this week due to rubbish weather were having at the minute. I managed to get the speaker inlay started, This will house the speakers above the main speaker panel but will also house a custom Amp and Led lights That can be viewed from the rear. It will also be a structural Part of the Marquee Inlay That will placed inside to house all the strip led lights for the marquee its self. I ordered the Mesh today for the speaker panel That should be here in a few days at which point the speaker panel and inlay should be finished. Ill then start on the rear panel plexi window.












So here's hoping to some half decent weather for a few weeks so I can make some solid progress and get most of the wood work out of the way..

[a1pharm]

Great job on the speaker inlays, you are going to like them.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Great job on the speaker inlays, you are going to like them.

Yep. I took your advice and changed the whole look. You were right.

[a1pharm]

I put some black cloth in between my grill and the speaker, this hides the speaker (for the most part) and looks professional.  The cloth only cost $3 for a yard at Walmart.  It also helps with a little of the "light pollution" I have in my cab (the marquee light does not spill out of the cab through the speaker grills).  Hot glue works great at keeping the fabric in place prior to mounting the speakers.

Again, great work, keep it up!
 

[jbenesh]

Your routing work looks awesome.   

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I put some black cloth in between my grill and the speaker, this hides the speaker (for the most part) and looks professional.  The cloth only cost $3 for a yard at Walmart.  It also helps with a little of the "light pollution" I have in my cab (the marquee light does not spill out of the cab through the speaker grills).  Hot glue works great at keeping the fabric in place prior to mounting the speakers.

Again, great work, keep it up!
 

Sounds like a plan also. You just keep throwing great ideas at me.

Your routing work looks awesome.   

Thank you my friend . I'm pretty skilled with it to be honest and have used one for years, But this is my first time Building a Cab, And I'm loving it. 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So today I've made some very good progress on the Speaker panels and Marquee area.

I've fixed the speakers, Amp & inline fuse in place And got them mounted inside the cab.




From the rear the Speaker panel sits nice and flush on top of the Screen bevel.




I've fixed the speaker panel with blocks for the time being until its ready to be flush fitted with screws.




I've also got the marque panel made which is covered on the front with some sound proofing
 for no other reason that it has it has a very nice reflective rear piece which I have fixed to the
 panel and added four strip of Led lights Which will light the marquee very nicely.
 The rear of this panel will also back light the Amp speaker which you will be able to see from
 the back of the cab through a plexi panel.




That's it for now. Here's hoping for some more nice weather here in the UK.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small Update

Today I started and finished the Top panel that houses two Whisper Led Fans. These Fans are so quite its unreal, I hadn't even turned them on until this afternoon, When I did switch them on I thought id wired them up wrong as there was no noise. Id recommend them to anyone. They are very powerful also and blow in some nice fresh air. Just what I wanted.

Cutting the holes in the top panel.



The fan grills will be powder coated crystal White.



I used M6 Inserts and Hex bolts for the Grill.
 I didn't want to just screw them in so I thought id make a bit of effort and fit the Hex fittings.




And fitted back on the Cab.



Hopefully the sun keeps shining so I can keep working..

[emphatic]

Those are some funky grills! 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Those are some funky grills! 

Well thank you sir 

Small update.

Started to work on the underside of the CP. I have routed a 3MM space to fit the Stick plate and the P-clips that will house the cables. The Kade Encoder will also fit into this area Just above the stick plate.. Still toying with idea of a track ball or not.?



A Quick test fit of some buttons all nice and snug..



Today I start my night shifts at work on 4 on 4 off so hoping to much more time to build build build.. Catch you all soon hopefully..

[a1pharm]

I like the rounded edges you're using (one of the benefits of NOT using laminate).  Keep up the good work, you're getting close to the end!

 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Ive been working hard the last few days so not had much time to work on the Cab, But ive made some progress today.

The PS3 Has been stripped down and is ready to mount on one of three custom water cooled platforms im making. The first picture will give you a rough idea of what im planning, But in a nut shell the Cab will hold Three water cooled systems 1. PS3 2. XBOX 360 3. PC Running a front end which I am undecided on.

Its a pretty ambitious build I know but ill pull it off without much fuss. I will need some advice though on some water cooling options but that can come later.

The first platform of three. The holes are to allow plenty of room for all the water cooling parts that will be fitted.


PS3 Fully stripped down.


The board fitted to the platform with the uncovered power supply.


Here you can see the platform at an angle giving you an idea of the space bellow the PS3 Board. its pretty tight.




Underneath shot..



The board and platform placed inside the Cab to give you an idea of scale. This is not were it will be positioned once fitted but you get the idea. The platforms will be separated with Plexe rods That will be edge lit with leds..




The whole cab will be powered via two power input blocks which you can see on the back plate in the pictures above. Im routing all the cables through the platforms themselves to keep it neat and tidy.



Hopefully the Xbox 360 will be fitted tomorrow. Until then have fun with your builds.. 

[rablack97]

loving this thread, very clean....looking forward to how you get that ps3 working in there.....

did you JB it or are you just gonna access the blu0ray for games?

[sabreerbasAlpha]

loving this thread, very clean....looking forward to how you get that ps3 working in there.....

did you JB it or are you just gonna access the blu0ray for games?

Well thank you for those kind words..

Yes the PS3 AND XBOX 360 Will both have disk access from the Cab. I have 3D Printed a new PS3 Blue ray disk cover pretty similar to one that covers the Fat Ps3 Blue ray. I will have to custom fabricate This into the cab by blending it in with bondo then shaping with lots of sanding. This will be the pain part of the build but I will document it well for you with lots of pictures. I've also 3D printed a custom pair of water cooling brackets for both the consoles based around an EK-Supreme version of there Intel block.. I could have just bought some to be honest but I was dying to give the 3D printer a go..The only difference in them is the bracket spacing and holes for both the PS3 & 360..

You can see them here http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-LTX-CSQ_38165.html

I was going to leave this question for a later date but I guess its as good a time as any. Basically as I've already described im water cooling three systems in one CAB. Obviously only one at a time will be powered on, so my question is this what type of RAD & Pump will I need to move a good amount of water flow  around quite a bit of pipe..? Thanks in advance for any help..

[rablack97]

 

Yeah ok....that too

Have no idea about watercooling, but how are you gonna switch video and audio between 3 systems?

[sabreerbasAlpha]

The video and audio switching will be the easy part. ill use something similar to this for the video http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VGA-SVGA-LCD-Monitor-Display-Switch-4-to-1-Splitter-Box-Ship-from-UK-/400266740384?pt=UK_Computing_KVM_Switches_KVM_Cables&hash=item5d31c1c2a0

And something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3Port-Optical-Switch-Digital-Audio-Toslink-Splitter-Adapter-For-Xbox-DVR-DVD-PS3-/230770373250?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item35bafc7282 for the optical audio from the PS3 360 & Audio card from the PC. Ill hack the switch to be always on x3, that way ill eliminate the need to switch between the three as only one system at a time will be on.

The video and audio will be the easy part of the build. I did something similar for the 360 PS3 In a pc case I built last year. The only new venture for me here is using water cooling. something I have never done. 

[rablack97]

Cool.....you might want to PM this fella

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132881.40.html

Scoll down look at the photos in regards to the piping and watercooling...I think he knows his stuff from the looks of it...

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Cool.....you might want to PM this fella

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132881.40.html

Scoll down look at the photos in regards to the piping and watercooling...I think he knows his stuff from the looks of it...

Yes this guy is a genius plain and simple. Ill PM him when it comes to building the water cooling setup. He certainly does know his stuff. Im sure he will give me some pointers..

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So with the sun blazing at 91 in the UK And a few days off I've made some more progress today. The 360 has been striped down and mounted on its  cooling platform. The hard drive for the 360 will be mounted underneath but im leaving that part until all the fixings for the water cooling and power cables are in place.
 
360 striped down and mounted on its cooling platform.



As I mentioned earlier in a previous post, the cooling platforms will be supported with plexi rods, but for the purpose of construction and mock up im using 15mm pine dowel which will give you an idea as to what im trying to achieve.

The holes in the platform were made using a 15mm forstner bit.




15mm dowel sitting nice and snug, To be replaced with plexi for the final build.




Placed in the Cab the first platform gives me around an inch & a half of space beneath it. Plenty of room for a couple of cable runs, pipes, and air flow.


The PS3 mounted above the 360 on its own Cooling platform. The 360s USB inputs you can see bellow will be de-soldered before the screen is fitted to add some more room that I will need.


A side on view of the PS3 Mounted above the 360. The Heat sink on the 360 will of course be removed.


A Front view of the cooling platforms.




Top view of the PS3s power input. The red power cable you see will be routed around the platforms and will carry 12v.


The panel cover you can see bellow will cover the power cable inputs so it doesn't look messy down there. The power cables will come directly out of the top for both switches. Still need to add the Negative cable holes.


That's all for now folks..

 

[a1pharm]

I'm digging the integration of the multiple consoles, keep up the great work, dude!

Cheers!
 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I'm digging the integration of the multiple consoles, keep up the great work, dude!

Cheers!
 

Thank you mate...

I Wanted to do something no one else had done. And I'm pretty sure no one else has built a 3 system, water cooled bar top before. It will cost a fortune to build it properly but who cares. Its something I've wanted to do for a long time.

I've already had an offer to buy it and its not even half way done, LOL

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So I've made a small amount of progress today as the weather has cooled a bit here I've had a chance to get out and work on the upper the rear panel.

Through this panel you will be able to view the inner workings of the water cooling radiator and fans.




Only the best plexi straight from Germany.



The holes from the routing frame filled and smoothed.



The rear upper panel in place



Next up will be the lower rear panel. Until then have fun all with your builds..

[sabreerbasAlpha]

some new toys for the water cooling system are on the way.

The radiator


The Pump


x2 Reservoirs


x2 reservoir tops


x2 radiator fans


PS3 water block


Xbox 360 water block


All the goodies were purchased from Special Techhttp://stores.ebay.co.uk/specialtech-shop Who sell some ubber cool Water cooling gear. I will be going back to them for the connection parts, pipes, and anything else I might need. I love the white and chrome coil over pipes they do..

Catch you soon.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

A small update.

I had toyed with the rear door/panel call it what you want for a while. from the posts above you can see id gone with a hinged door previously but since I decided to water cool the entire system I have decided to go for a single piece magnetic panel. The rear panel can then be completely removed for any service or maintenance that needs to be done. It makes sense to be honest also as the cab wouldn't have to be moved or relocated to lower the previous design I was using.

Any way onto the pics and as usual I have taken a few for to look at.

I first marked out the rear panel completely, again im using 3/4 MDF.



After drilling the holes and cutting out the two pieces I then fit a routing template to cut the two plexi holes for the rear panel.


With template removed and the routing complete. I used a 1" flush cutter.




Both sides cut out and complete.



I Then began routing the groove for the plexi glass to sit in & filled and smoothed all the routing frame holes.







And there she is sat in the cab.



At this point the panel is just sat on the lower and upper panels. I have still to fit the magnetics to hold it in place.

Catch you soon. 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Small Update

Having decided  where the PS3 & 360 are going to sit in the cab, I decided to add the disk entry for the PS3 to front of the cab and disk entry for the 360 at the rear. The space is pretty tight and awkward to add them both to the front and the water cooling configuration I will have wont really allow me to place both disk drives at the front.

I decided on adding the front panel from the PS3 to the front panel of the cab. I routed out a 5mm space for the panel to fit into, I then glued the panel in place using industrial bond and then filled the gap with a mix of bondo & filler to harden the fill up so I could sand it down. The front panel will have a laser cut piece of plexi fixed to it, with the disk entry laser cut and smoothed to stop the disks being scratched. the guys over at CutLaserCut have given me a nice price to laser cut the piece for me and post it back as long as I mentioned them in the build so there you go guys. You can find them here. http://www.cutlasercut.com/

As usual I've taken some Pics for you to view at your leisure Enjoy.



A mix of 60% filler & 40% bondo to harden the filler up. It worked a treat. This wasn't 100% necessary but I wanted the panel to be stiff and knowing it was being hid behind the Plexi looking like crap would have just cheapened the whole process for me so I spent a fin minutes to get it right.



With the filler all smoothed off I taped up the edges to protect it until I cover the panel then place the plexi over it.







So that's pretty much all I had time for today. but I did have time to open up some other goodies that arrived with Mr post man.

The goodies that arrived are

DB 25 pin solder fixings for the control panel.
A DB 25 PIN switch box for the Leds.
3x Temp control displays for the PC,360 & PS3.
Braided cable sleeve for the wiring.
music active Led Set with remote.
2x Kade encoders, I already had two but there in another control panel im building.
2 packs of led strips.
1x real of 2mm cable to wire all the leds together.
3M of monster 12v cable.
and finally one new 360 disk tray cover. that will fit into the cab when closed.



So that that for now. Until next time guys enjoy your own builds and have fun.

[rablack97]

very nice....

[sabreerbasAlpha]

very nice....

Thanks rablack. Enjoying this build, Just wish I had more time.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Need some help please. can anybody point me in the right direction for an extended PS3 Blue ray cable. Or a Mod Tut. Thanks..

[Drnick]

Don't know how long the original PS3 one is but found these.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-LCD-Cable-60P-FFC-FPC-0-5mm-Pitch-Line-60-pins-60way-2PCS-LOT/614311823.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-AWM-20624-FPC-FFC-CABLE-0-5mm-pitch-60PIN-200mms-long/956051018.html

or see these guys, they may have something that allows you to connect 2 together as a straight through.

http://www.kentec.net/en/products.php
(Whoops looks like minimum order of 1000, but they do make custom ffc cables of any length)

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Don't know how long the original PS3 one is but found these.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-LCD-Cable-60P-FFC-FPC-0-5mm-Pitch-Line-60-pins-60way-2PCS-LOT/614311823.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-AWM-20624-FPC-FFC-CABLE-0-5mm-pitch-60PIN-200mms-long/956051018.html

or see these guys, they may have something that allows you to connect 2 together as a straight through.

http://www.kentec.net/en/products.php
(Whoops looks like minimum order of 1000, but they do make custom ffc cables of any length)

Thanks Drnick but it looks like its a no go my friend. The top company only have the same size I have and the bottom company wont make anything unless I buy 1000 of them...

So it looks like a major redesign of the internal parts, That is unless anybody else can help me with an extended ribbon or know of another source to buy an extended cable...Thanks again, it would be a big help and save me hours of re-work

[a1pharm]

Why don't you just get a few regular cables and clip them together (end to end to end....) ?  You'll pay for a bunch of cables, but it may be worth it for you.

If that doesn't work, here's a long one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PS3-BLU-RAY-DRIVE-LONG-RIBBON-CABLE-for-CECHK01-CECHH01-RARE-part-parts-bluray-/250931594736

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Why don't you just get a few regular cables and clip them together (end to end to end....) ?  You'll pay for a bunch of cables, but it may be worth it for you.

If that doesn't work, here's a long one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PS3-BLU-RAY-DRIVE-LONG-RIBBON-CABLE-for-CECHK01-CECHH01-RARE-part-parts-bluray-/250931594736

Thanks a1pharm but that ribbon would not work in my machine. my PS3 is a CECHG01 & I don't think now having looked everywhere for one that my machine is/ or would be compatible with that long cable. I have another (3) PS3 fat machines all of which have the short ribbon cable. So I guess the only thing to do is try and find one with the long cable. Or use a PS3 slim, But that would mean buying another PS3 I've already bought 4 for this machine to use various parts and to play about with different ways of putting it together. I've destroyed two of them and used the parts and had one good one fully working left which was going in this machine. But my issue was I designed the whole interior of the cab around the PS3. The XBOX 360 & The pc motherboard were all integrated around the PS3 Given the issues I had with setting up the water cooling for all three. Right now im pretty much at square one again. All this because I didn't spend a few minutes researching the PS3 & The cable inside it.

I guess you live and learn. Ill give the putting two ribbons together a go but im not sure if that will work maybe it will. If it doesn't its back to the drawing board for this build. Gutted really I've spent so much money on it and wanted to have it finished soon, But this will put me back a while now as work is getting so busy at the minute...

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So having said all the above a while ago I have now decided to make the Cab with disk access for both PS3 AND XBOX360 Internal. I will modify the CP to open to allow disk access to both machines. It seems the most viable alternative at the minute. 

[a1pharm]

So having said all the above a while ago I have now decided to make the Cab with disk access for both PS3 AND XBOX360 Internal. I will modify the CP to open to allow disk access to both machines. It seems the most viable alternative at the minute. 

It's too bad that Xbox and Playstation don't have homebrew that allows a USB Loader (like on the Wii).  I wouldn't fret too much about the disk access issue, you may not be using it terribly often.  It will mean a lot to you, but probably less to those you play with.

Looking good, nonetheless, keep it up!

Cheers!
 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So having said all the above a while ago I have now decided to make the Cab with disk access for both PS3 AND XBOX360 Internal. I will modify the CP to open to allow disk access to both machines. It seems the most viable alternative at the minute. 

It's too bad that Xbox and Playstation don't have homebrew that allows a USB Loader (like on the Wii).  I wouldn't fret too much about the disk access issue, you may not be using it terribly often.  It will mean a lot to you, but probably less to those you play with.

Looking good, nonetheless, keep it up!

Thanks a1pharm.



Cheers!
 

 I've come up with a new plan and spent another 100 pound this morning on new parts. This build is getting expensive now. 

But I had to come up with another way of disk access, which wasn't essential as you said but I still wanted it in there. I think I have a viable design to make it work and for it to be practicable in its use. The only issue I had was in the re-design, the water pump I have was to big in its location but I've overcome that now by buying two smaller ones and relocating them. I've also changed the radiator from a triple setup to three separate ones which has given me some more space up top.

 In the pictures above were the Amp was is now were the Rads and fans will sit. The Amp has been relocated to a lower position in the Cab.

Overall I'm happy with the new design and way forward, Ill start work again on Saturday and hopefully make some good progress.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Some more expense but well worth it.

I've just bought three of the rads. I like the slim profile and they will fit in nicely with 120 Fans attached.



Again I purchased them from special tech.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/

Rad fans bellow. Seems I got the last three

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Be-Quiet-Silent-Wings-Pure-120-x-120-x-25mm-BL043-Case-Fan--BQT-T102025-LR-B-pid-16083.html

[a1pharm]

This is shaping up to be very cool... (pun intended?)

[UFO]

Looks good buddy...

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Looks good buddy...

Thanks UFO  Really appreciate that my friend.

A very small update today.

I started the wiring on the CP, this morning having an hour or so spare. I started off by silencing all the micro switches using a similar method to the one posted in the forums here

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72400.0

I used wrapped vinyl instead of paper/card and it works great. I tested all the buttons by wiring them all up to a set of leds and they never missed a push once & are completely silent, which to honest feels a bit alien, not hearing that click but it works a treat.

Any way like I said I've made a start with the earth loom on the 1P side. The wiring will eventually go into a distribution harness to separate the wiring to the Kade and the led  loom.  At this point I have a small question to all those of you who know the Kade a lot better than I do.

When setting it up how do I go about integrating the PS3 & 360 controls. or will I have to just keep them wireless on the pads as I think I will have to. Or can I buy more Kades and do it that way. Im a bit lost with that one. Thanks.







See ya soon

[rablack97]

Looks good buddy...

Any way like I said I've made a start with the earth loom on the 1P side. The wiring will eventually go into a distribution harness to separate the wiring to the Kade and the led  loom.  At this point I have a small question to all those of you who know the Kade a lot better than I do.

When setting it up how do I go about integrating the PS3 & 360 controls. or will I have to just keep them wireless on the pads as I think I will have to. Or can I buy more Kades and do it that way. Im a bit lost with that one. Thanks.







See ya soon

Contacted  Degenatrons (Kade Designer) for ya in regards to your issues, he said he'll respond to the thread once he looks into what your trying to do.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Thanks. well in a nut shell. Run three systems from one control panel. Can it even be done?

Thanks for the help. Lets see what he says...

[rablack97]

Well, i know one issue your gonna have, switching firmwares.....

I know for sure Kade can do PC and PS3, not so sure about 360.

Even if you make the switch, you would have to program the kade to whatever system firmware you would want to play.

At this point you might even look into interchangeable CP tops, that suit whatever system your trying to play and have a kade for each one.

Hopefully Degenatrons can provide better guidance in his post.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Well, i know one issue your gonna have, switching firmwares.....

I know for sure Kade can do PC and PS3, not so sure about 360.

Even if you make the switch, you would have to program the kade to whatever system firmware you would want to play.

At this point you might even look into interchangeable CP tops, that suit whatever system your trying to play and have a kade for each one.

Hopefully Degenatrons can provide better guidance in his post.

Well I was guessing the firmware switch would be an issue, I was hoping an on the fly Macro may have been able to change them over. I don't know maybe im just being super ambitious here a trying to do something that just isn't possible. I know I can keep the consoles wireless which is ok. But how cool would it be to have all three systems running from one control panel With the flick of a switch and a macro to change over the Kade. Hopefully Degenatrons  will have like you said some solid input and guidance for me before I start doing something that isn't even possible. The reason I stopped wiring this morning is for this very reason. Thanks rablack mate 

[rablack97]

I would be awesome.

I was working on a autoconnect board for the Kade, Xbox version.

It allows you to put the kade in program mode via usb, program, and then revert back to playing on the fly.

So your gonna run into this wall.

Kade needs power from the system or the pc to operate, the switch has to be done in a way to not scramble the kade.  So on my prototype, I used a relay to switch it from the Xbox to the pc once power was supplied by the USB cord to the kade.  Once the cord was removed it would switch back to the xbox and reset.  The key is to shut off the usb signal and power from one source and switch it to the other.

So lets say xbox to PS3 in PS3 Mode.

In order to do what you want you gonna have to double route. (And idea would be a switching hub maybe or a series of relays.)

1. Killl connections to PS3
2. connect kade to pc for programming
3. route kade powering and wiring to xbox

Also, there are only a few firmwares with the auto-connect mode.  So you may be limited there as well, or maybe Degenatrons can write you some code for the systems that dont have it, and you can recompile your own loader.

Auto-connect mode allows you to put the Kade in program mode w/o rolling over the 2 buttons.

I've recompiled a loader for my board, so i can help you there....

[degenatrons]

I could create a hybrid firmware for you which would allow switching between the various systems using a single button to toggle (or having a dedicated button for each system).

PC (as USB/HID Joystick) and PS3 firmwares are compatible as rablack mentioned so you may only need to switch between those and your other system (360).  Now 360 is PITA because KADE cannot provide native support because of the security mechanism that MS have employed into their 360 controllers.  MS have intentionally made their system very difficult to work with to restrict development of third party controls and interfaces 

The workaround is to use a PSX to 360 converter which also requires a connected 360 wired controller to bypass the security.  The KADE could then switch to work in PSX mode.  Sounds like a plan,  but we are having limited success with the PSX converters and are yet to find a converter that is 100% reliable when connected to KADE.  We continue to investigate and work on the 360 issue.

Would be great to help you out with that switching firmware on this build.
Will update you as/when we make progress.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Thanks guys. Some good info here and a lot to digest. Like I said it would great to get it all working from one control panel. Lets see we're we go. If not I have the wireless option available.

Thanks again guys for all the help and input. The Kade is a great bit of kit

[skjerk]

Awesome project! - I wouldn't have the patience for this. I just looove your routing-skills! - I definitly have to try this to do some of this on my cab!.

Well back to the point.
Regarding the 360 controller issue. Instead of forcing the kade to interface to the 360, why not just mod an original 360-controller? then you just have to find a way to switch the button wires, and this might not even be necessary if the xbox is not powered up at the same time as the pc and/or ps3 - then you can just wire in parallel.
Check this out: http://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Arcade-controller---Project-Gyokusho - this guy has used a 360 controller to interface arcade-buttons to the 360.
Just an idea!

Keep it up! - Can't wait for more updates

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Awesome project! - I wouldn't have the patience for this. I just looove your routing-skills! - I definitly have to try this to do some of this on my cab!.

Well back to the point.
Regarding the 360 controller issue. Instead of forcing the kade to interface to the 360, why not just mod an original 360-controller? then you just have to find a way to switch the button wires, and this might not even be necessary if the xbox is not powered up at the same time as the pc and/or ps3 - then you can just wire in parallel.
Check this out: http://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Arcade-controller---Project-Gyokusho - this guy has used a 360 controller to interface arcade-buttons to the 360.
Just an idea!

Keep it up! - Can't wait for more updates

Thanks for that input my friend.

I really wanted to stay away from hacking any game pads. But I might have to go down that route. I'm going to leave the control panel until the very end to see if degenatrons and his team come up with any new developments with the Kade. I'm prepared to wait as it means that much to me to get this build 100% as it could be. If it ends up being impossible or possible "but buggy as hell" then I will create a loom and hack the wired 360 pad. But I can wait a while to see what else gets thrown out there. Some people on these boards just have knowledge that I don't , and when it comes to Kade I'm a complete Noob. 

That being said combining three systems has thrown a few headaches my way already which I've managed to overcome so lets see were we go..

And to put another smile on my face Mr post man dropped off some more Kit From Special Tech who kindly donated 100 pounds towards the build with some new Rads And fans. God Bless Em...

3 Spanking new Black ice 120mm Rads And compression fittings.




6 New F12 Pro fans with anti vibration shrouds.






He also dropped off the two 360 water blocks. All the way from the good old USA. 


Thanks for all the help you have been giving me guys. Keep it coming..

[Sitnalta]

Very impressive project, I'm going to follow this one

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Very impressive project, I'm going to follow this one

Thank you for those comments my friend. I'm really enjoying this build. The challenge at the minute is keeping the costs down but what the hell. Its only money 

[Superfrog]

Thank you for those comments my friend. I'm really enjoying this build. The challenge at the minute is keeping the costs down but what the hell. Its only money 

That's always the challenge when building a new project 

Top project and great to see you don't rush things and spent time on every detail 

Have fun with it and can't wait to see MORE!!!!! 

Greetings

[sabreerbasAlpha]

So work has taken me away from build over the last few weeks and the weather here in the UK is about to turn for the worst so ill be clearing my garage out soon and continuing my build in doors.

Anyway I have a few new toys arrive today and I have a few questions regarding a good solid motherboard and Graphics card/s for the Cab.

First of all some Arcade porn.




So on to my question. Which of the hundreds of motherboards out there would you recommend.

It has to be a good one capable of taking two Graphics cards and pretty high end. But not the best of the best but able to play all the Arcade games using Maximus Arcade. I have decided Maximus will be my front end.

Thanks guys..

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Today I rewired the 1000 watt ATX Power supply I bought of eBay. The previous owner was a bit of Noob obviously and it was filthy.
I removed the 120mm fan and replaced it with 120mm whisper fan rewired the fan and gave it good old clean.

The previous owner had added an extra wire for whatever reason so I made the power supply safe fist by stripping it down, removing the rouge wires and adding heat shrink to protect the cables. You can see the old 120mm above.




After sorting the cable I added a Wago connector to the power supply to take a 12v supply from the ATX safely, More on that later in the build.



You can see an extra double Molex I added running of the Wago connector were the wiring loom exits the ATX.


using the jumper method I tested the ATX.


She works like a charm and completely silent.


I've also wired two of the three Led Drivers today.


I've also completely rewired the three fans that will cool the water radiators. The connections on the fans were 3 pin motherboard connections, and as these fans are not going to be powered from the motherboard I re-wired them into a Molex plug and blanked off the yellow fan speed cable.

I used some nice artic white cable braid and white heat shrink to keep it all nice and clean.





All three re-wired and ready to go.




And that's it for today, Until next time. 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

All three Led drivers wired & Braided.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Hello peeps.

A few shiny new items arrived today from Special Tech.

I've decided to do away with the traditional lit marquee with artwork. Opting instead for that area to be filled with the 3 radiators, pipe work and Temp gauges. It will be a see through Perspex area so all will be on show like the side panel of a pc. I will be lit with uv leds and have a nice mirror effect inside it giving the illusion of three times the space that is actually in there.

It will mean making a small mod to the speaker area or coming up with another speaker solution or even re-designing the cab sides, something I don't really want to do as I love the shape as it is. Anyway I will figure it out one way or another.   

I'm going with the Black and white look inside the cab with a splash of red and Uv leds, And the pipe work being covered in Nickel coil springs. It will look sweet once its finished but getting there is going to a pain.

Anyway here are some of the New goodies that arrived today.


Another 50 mtrs of Cable Braid.


1/4 Inch nickel compression fittings.


See ya soon