Author Topic: Hantarex Polo 2 28 inch questions (Read 14213 times)

njay · « **on:** April 04, 2010, 09:27:00 am »

Hi All,

i am recieving a cabinet from 2004 this week to convert to mame:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101535.0

I still have a jamma connector with all the wires from a previous cab that housed a MTC900 that has a vga breakout cable soldered to it worked perfectly any ideas on the connections on the polo 2? and does anyone know the max resolution?

grantspain · « **Reply #1 on:** April 04, 2010, 11:09:40 am »

polo 2 max res is 24khz

njay · « **Reply #2 on:** April 04, 2010, 11:13:24 am »

so 640 x 480 ?

grantspain · « **Reply #3 on:** April 04, 2010, 11:38:15 am »

i thought it was more like 640 x 350,i could be wrong though

njay · « **Reply #4 on:** April 04, 2010, 11:48:09 am »

really crap reso for windows use

SailorSat · « **Reply #5 on:** April 04, 2010, 01:26:18 pm »

400 lines 57Hz
384 lines 60Hz
768 lines 60Hz Interlaced

njay · « **Reply #6 on:** April 04, 2010, 01:32:15 pm »

i feel a like a noob but that means 640 x 400 etc ?

SailorSat · « **Reply #7 on:** April 04, 2010, 01:37:15 pm »

basically yes.
if you want square pixels...
512x384
600x400
(640x480 @50Hz)
1024x768

njay · « **Reply #8 on:** April 04, 2010, 01:46:08 pm »

sweet thanks

njay · « **Reply #9 on:** April 13, 2010, 01:37:20 am »

So i got the cab today and the guy removed the chassis from the polo

its a polo 25 says the chassis should it say polo 2 if its a polo2? or is polo just the brand name

question :

there is a green molex that is directly soldered to the back of the polo but i have two green molex connectors on the chassis how do i know which one to use?

SailorSat · « **Reply #10 on:** April 13, 2010, 01:49:24 am »

As for the molex: Doesn't matter, plug it into one of them. (should the image rotated 180° later, use the other one)

As for the chassis itself...
Based on this image there should be a Polo/2 Sticker

njay · « **Reply #11 on:** April 13, 2010, 01:55:22 am »

Nope mine says polo 25

which reso's can this one handle/

also i was looking at some pics and the guy did not have the remote board on botch chassis so no knobs for adjustments does the monitor work like this? *edit* he says its in the cab will look at it when i am home

two more questions sorry:

1. there is a black wire with a single molex pin that comes from the monitor where do i connect this?

2. he does not remember which chassis worked when i install one put on the power and then shut it off can i just pull the anode cab from the monitor? or should i do something else/

SailorSat · « **Reply #12 on:** April 13, 2010, 03:19:54 am »

The Polo is a standard resolution (15kHz) arcade monitor. It should be able to handle all standard resolutions (note: 240 lines [320x240] at 60Hz progressive, 480 lines [640x480] at 60Hz interlaced)

As for the black wire... If I remember correctly this goes to the neckboard. There should be a connector somewhere on it.

njay · « **Reply #13 on:** April 13, 2010, 03:45:45 am »

thanks for your help !

should i able to just pull the anode cab off when i swith off the power to the monitor?

SailorSat · « **Reply #14 on:** April 13, 2010, 05:59:09 am »

Well you should discharge the chassis before removing the anode.
The anode itself is just hooked in and can be removed pretty simple.

njay · « **Reply #15 on:** April 13, 2010, 11:51:07 am »

ok i got power to the screen but i have a single white line across when its fired up any ideas? the guy said one chassis was broken , now the remote boards are missing still so i dont know if that is the problem

also with the other chassis you hear a ticking sound and the monitor wont come on now i had a hard time getting the anode in and dont know if it both pins where in the tube could that be the issue?

grantspain · « **Reply #16 on:** April 13, 2010, 12:55:16 pm »

no remote=frame collapse

njay · « **Reply #17 on:** April 13, 2010, 12:57:25 pm »

also can anyone tell me where the black ground connector
goes from the monitor braid i dont have connection
on the neck board

njay · « **Reply #18 on:** April 13, 2010, 12:59:36 pm »

thanks grantspain so the frame collapse is
the white line ?

the guy will send me the board this week

njay · « **Reply #19 on:** April 13, 2010, 04:36:44 pm »

can anyone explain why the frame collapses if there is not adjusment board?

i like to know more about monitors

grantspain · « **Reply #20 on:** April 13, 2010, 05:30:57 pm »

Quote from: njay on April 13, 2010, 04:36:44 pm

can anyone explain why the frame collapses if there is not adjusment board?

i like to know more about monitors

yeah,the vertical size pot is missing
the black ground from the earth braid goes to the neck card spade terminal

njay · « **Reply #21 on:** April 14, 2010, 02:41:24 am »

there should be a spade terminal on my neckboard?

the same location as this picture? the blue connector?

njay · « **Reply #22 on:** April 14, 2010, 08:00:33 am »

I keep asking questions but i learn a lot from this:

do all arcade monitors whine a high pitch noise when you turn them on it is normal?

SailorSat · « **Reply #23 on:** April 14, 2010, 09:11:48 am »

Most likely you hear the 15kHz

At least I do on my Polo

grantspain · « **Reply #24 on:** April 14, 2010, 02:14:07 pm »

Quote from: njay on April 14, 2010, 02:41:24 am

there should be a spade terminal on my neckboard?

the same location as this picture? the blue connector?

yeah it comes from the earth braid around the crt,without that you will get all sorts of issues

njay · « **Reply #25 on:** April 14, 2010, 04:09:03 pm »

Thanks grantspain !!!

i found the spade connector and hooked the braid connector on it

now to wait for the adjusment board thanks !!

ow yeah so if i understand correctly the chassis says to the monitor what it gets?
so can i hook up a 32hz chassis to my tube? or is that different technlogy?

njay · « **Reply #26 on:** April 15, 2010, 08:33:37 am »

well what if the guy does not send me the missing adjustment board

any place to get em for my 25 chassis?

SailorSat · « **Reply #27 on:** April 15, 2010, 10:43:59 am »

I think you can build a remote from the schematics.

grantspain · « **Reply #28 on:** April 15, 2010, 10:49:58 am »

the polo chassis accepts 15khz only unless you have a polo2 which accepts 15k and 24k
you will need either a vga to cga converter/avga card or soft15k

i have a few remote pcb kicking around if you get stuck

njay · « **Reply #29 on:** April 16, 2010, 04:34:48 am »

thanks for the offer graintspain

i contacted the guy i am goign to pick it up on saturday

i just wired my ledwiz to the cp yesterday i cant wait to fire te monitor !

bertthedefender · « **Reply #30 on:** April 16, 2010, 04:46:07 pm »

I have a 28" Polo 15khz and that black earth wire has been dangling ever since I hooked up the monitor - I've not had any problems with the display. Suppose I'd better find where to connect it up!

njay · « **Reply #31 on:** April 17, 2010, 07:33:11 am »

So i got screwed i guess i put on the adjustment board fired here up got all white screen tryed to adjust something pooof no power only ticking from the chassis can anyone assist me?

Crap so i got two broken chassis now sigh... with no skills in monitor repair , any place to a buy a new chassis?

njay · « **Reply #32 on:** April 17, 2010, 08:19:54 am »

are these any good?

http://www.genao.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=30

grantspain · « **Reply #33 on:** April 17, 2010, 08:25:05 am »

Quote from: njay on April 17, 2010, 08:19:54 am

are these any good?

http://www.genao.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=30

they seem to look o.k,quite a few people have replaced polo chassis with those

what did you try to adjust that killed the chassis,white screen is normally a good sign unless the blanking circuit is shot

njay · « **Reply #34 on:** April 17, 2010, 08:27:01 am »

Well my screen was inwards so i tryed to adjust it but i got outside of the edge of the screen and then whop no more power and tick tick tick

is that possible to screw up a chassis by adjustments?

grantspain · « **Reply #35 on:** April 17, 2010, 08:45:04 am »

i am not sure why that has happened,the ticking is the power supply circuit in trip and normally caused by a faulty cap in the psu circuit or the HOT short
are you u.k based or U.S?

njay · « **Reply #36 on:** April 17, 2010, 08:51:00 am »

from holland

is it hard to fix ?

i think i now what i did wrong i als tryed the H frequeny adjuster to high maybe?

grantspain · « **Reply #37 on:** April 17, 2010, 08:59:28 am »

Quote from: njay on April 17, 2010, 08:51:00 am

from holland

is it hard to fix ?

i think i now what i did wrong i als tryed the H frequeny adjuster to high maybe?

hard to fix for someone with experience-no,for someone with no experience then dangerous and difficult
the h-freq should not kill the chassis,i expect the chassis may have been on its last legs

njay · « **Reply #38 on:** April 17, 2010, 09:03:49 am »

Ok , what is the best option for me ?

if i order that 8liners chassis is it just plug and play are does it to require skills?

grantspain · « **Reply #39 on:** April 17, 2010, 09:09:51 am »

the 8 liners chassis will require rewiring as the power/signal and yoke connectors are different-your best option is to repair the polo chassis or send it for repair
what signal did you send to the chassis,if it was 31khz then that would have blown the HOT


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