Hantarex Polo 2 28 inch questions

[njay]

I did hook it up to my vga card to only see if the screen would garble in the bios (like my old hantarex 900 did) then my plan was to shut it of and that point and install soft15khz
but the screen always stayed white and then poof

[grantspain]

polo 2 do not like to be fed 31khz,the HOT cannot handle it-its almost certainly a bu508a at position T22 which has blown,you can prove it by metering the centre pin of the transistor to the flyback heat shield-if you get dead short then the HOT is blown
there are a few repair places in the u.k that will fix your chassis,in general the price seems to be around £50 plus parts
I am not sure about any repair places in Holland although it may be wise to PM ckong on this forum and ask if he knows

[njay]

Ok thanks but its not a polo 2

it just polo 25 on the psu sticker on the chassis.

but i did manage to run a 19 inch hantarex mtc 900 with the same setup , in the future how should i run my video card to the monitor then?
or should i try to find a 25 vga chassis?

[grantspain]

you should set the video card with soft15k on a lcd and then plug the polo in
fyi polo 1 and polo 2 have the same problem with vga

[njay]

Ok,

but the startup of the bios does not load the driver yet in windows? so i need to switch cables everytime from a lcd to my polo?

or is it just one time?

(btw thanks for your help really cool)

[grantspain]

you set it once on your pc lcd and then it should be fine,one further thought-if you had the screen volts set far too high on the flyback transformer then that could put the monitor into trip,try turning the screen volts anti-clockwise to minimum and power on again

[njay]

Ok i can try that

are those the two black nobs on the flyback ?
where the wires come out to the anode?

[grantspain]

Ok i can try that

are those the two black nobs on the flyback ?
where the wires come out to the anode?

yep,focus and screen volts

[njay]

Nope tryed it no go

you can hear the ticking noise coming from big black thing near the metal psu rack

can i run a polo star chassis for my tube  ? this would include the vga connector with 31khz right?

you wouldn't have any chassis for me buy ?

sigh man what a bummer... what to do ... if i cant get it to be fixed i will sell it all i guess

[grantspain]

you will not find a vga chassis that fits your crt/yoke combination,I don't have any new chassis to sell at the moment
you only realistic options are to get your chassis fixed,buy a different 15khz chassis and rewire to fit or buy a complete new tri sync monitor

[njay]

Ok,

i just saw some thread about some building the 8liners chassis to a polo 25
it has a different connector for the yoke on the chassis is it possible to use the exisiting wires from the yoke and resolder them to the new connector?

for the power issue i have a inline transformer in the cab

[grantspain]

yeah it pretty simple to connect the 8 liners chassis but you must be sure to get the horizontal and vertical wires in the correct place or your new chassis will fry as well as any resistors on the yoke

[njay]

Thanks for your help
but a new chassis will cost me around 180 with shipping and the risk of blowing it up again its really high

i put up 2 ads on internet one for a mechanic who can fix the chassis and 1 for a complete sale of the cabinet
i am technical with servers and computers but monitors and all goes beyond my range

i know it sounds really weak maybe but its better then blowing money in the sky everytime i try to fix it

thanks for your help !

[grantspain]

if you get problems finding a repair person let me know as i can fix it for you although i do not usually fix chassis for non industry

[njay]

what would you charge for both chassis ?

[njay]

my father in law is willing to give it a shot
can you tell us what to ordet and to do ?

[grantspain]

well imo order a bu508a transistor for position T114
caps at C121 100uf 200v and C123 10uf 100v -both electrolitic 125 c rating

make sure if you replace t114 that you have a insulation sheet behind the transistor if it has a metal back,get yourself some heat conductive grease

remember electrolitic caps are polarity sensitve so make sure you get them installed the correct way around

if you get stuck and want me to fix your chassis I will charge £20 plus parts per chassis-i think you can fix this yourself though------with advice

[njay]

See PM

thanks in advance

[njay]

Also when the chassis is fixed i am going to order an arcadevga this will be the safest option for me not to frie the chassis again

[njay]

Also what i noticed this morning on the monitor neck that two pins are slighty bend but the neck card fits anyway

should not be any problem right?

[njay]

any idea for the above ? the neckcard
fits but the two lower left pins are slighty curved on top
?

[grantspain]

how curved is curved?
photo please

[njay]

shall post a pic tommorow but the top
of the pin is slighty curved but the neck
card goes on easy

[grantspain]

shall post a pic tommorow but the top
of the pin is slighty curved but the neck
card goes on easy

should be ok,if the pin was not making the socket then it would be a problem

[njay]

is it also correct i count 9 pins from left to right
then two empty spots then another pin in the triangle section
on the neck

[grantspain]

is it also correct i count 9 pins from left to right
then two empty spots then another pin in the triangle section
on the neck

yep

[njay]

Here is your monitor noob again with a question  

I ran direct 220v from the mains to the monitor with a spliced eurostyle cable , this is ok right?
what happens when its get overvoltage or under voltage is there a protector installed somewhere?

i have insulation transformer in the machine with one eurostyle connector on the back of the machine so my guess i would run a powerstrip from that then connect the monitor and pc on that strip  

Also i noticed when the monitor worked for 4 mins lol that i had a real bad pincushion effect i read through some posts here and a lot of them say wrong chassis for the tube the guy said there where the correct ones 25 chassis for a 28 tube ... ooh well you will see them this week lol 

[grantspain]

hantarex polo are 230vac operation in europe,polo 2 are free range 85-255vac
If you input 230vac into a 110vac chassis you will blow the primary stage diodes/bridge and possibly the mains smoothing cap
if you put 110vac into a 230vac only monitor it may try to function but will cut out
Does not matter what mains voltage you input into free range chassis

polo 25/28 use same chassis-you will find 25" chassis will work on 29" crt as well

pincushion could be down to failure on east/west correction circuit or just a bad adjustment or east/west correction board actually missing

Polo 1 are cga low res chassis and will work with 0.900mh to 1.5mh horizontal yoke inductance and low impedence(less than 20 ohms)

[njay]

pff you really know a lot of monitors what's your background?

(p.s. can you check my east/west correction on my two chassis?)

[grantspain]

pff you really know a lot of monitors what's your background?

(p.s. can you check my east/west correction on my two chassis?)

25 years as an arcade tech,work freelance now but have worked for various companies including sega and overseas also

will check the east/west correction as a matter of course-I have a feeling one of the diodes is leaky

[njay]

 

need i say more? 

[njay]

lol im tired as hell after my flight to paris and back but here goes:

since both chassis where dead but one displayed a complete white screen how i know the tube is not the problem?
something is broken? or is that not possible?

[grantspain]

lol im tired as hell after my flight to paris and back but here goes:

since both chassis where dead but one displayed a complete white screen how i know the tube is not the problem?
something is broken? or is that not possible?

normally a faulty tube will either not show any screen at all/if a gun is short then a colour will saturate the screen/if the shadow mask is damaged you will get the most insane gaussing effect which you cannot clear/yoke is short then either there will be no deflection on that winding or deflection circuit of chassis will fry/gone to air will give you a nice purple fireworks display around the neck area etc etc

[njay]

another worry disapeared 

[grantspain]

this is the chassis which had a white screen-fix 200v line 10ohm flame proof protection resistor o/c,4.7uf 250v cap o/c-cause incorrectly placed links on flyback repair

[njay]

wow looks awesome graintspain thanks !!

[grantspain]

wow looks awesome graintspain thanks !!

yeah it looks good considering i am running it on a polo 2 crt

one more to go-sure its the flyback judging from readings and behaviour

btw i enjoyed the 200v line fault as its the first time i have seen it on a polo-normally that fault would be down to the lm1203n or the 12v line missing or low

[njay]

LOL i am glad you are liking my troubles

i am going to make a 220v cable for the chassis the connector is now haging in side the cabinet and when i trace back the wires like i did now it splits up a few times but it works, so i am going to cut the connector of leaving some cable and use a eurostyle terminal to connect it to it's own 220v cable

How are arcade monitors protected againt surges?

[grantspain]

this particular monitor has onboard fuse rated at 3.15amp and a smps(switch mode power supply) that basically shuts down on shorts

some monitors are 110v ac only via a isolation transformer,some are 230v ac and others are what is termed free range 85-255vac operation-you must always check your model first before powering up

[njay]

but my chassis are both 220v right?