Author Topic: 8liners chassis/TV tube to arcade monitor(Previously: Whooooo mama!) (Read 57616 times)

Ken Layton · « **Reply #80 on:** November 14, 2003, 10:06:05 am »

Whether you have a 19" or 25" tube the chassis installs in the same manner.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #81 on:** November 14, 2003, 10:45:07 am »

Success! It works! Here's my review of the 8 liners replacement monitor chassis:

The chassis arrived in about 8 days via UPS ground. The box had nice braces inside to protect the circuit board. Packed with it are video input cable & connector and yoke connector & cable. I did not receive the single pin neckboard ground connector and wire, but I just made one from a spare Molex .093 female pin I had in the parts cabinet. The chassis is well laid out and very clean (no solder fluxes remaining on the foil side). It does not need an isolation transformer.

This replacement chassis is in reality made by Jen Shinn Electronic (www.jenshinn.com.tw) and is their model 220 LS (Low impedance, 8-pin neck). The monitor I have is a Sharp model XM-2001N (commercial arcade style) that had a blown flyback transformer which is no longer available. The picture tube is a Sharp 510YWB22 (8-pin) and the vertical yoke resistance is 15 ohms (low impedance). The black plastic circuit board holder is EXACTLY the same as the Eygo/Huai/Wei-Ya circuit boards and even has the mounting holes in the same places.

The circuit board has an odd (in the USA) 5 pin video input connector on it and it comes with a regular two wire power cord terminated in a regular household power plug which you can plug into a regular wall outlet. Well, here's where I made a few improvements.....first thing I did was unsolder that phony video connector and guess what? Underneath it was an extra set of holes for a normal 6 pin video connector that all commercial video game use. I had one of these in my parts cabinet (Amp # 640445-6 or Mouser # 571-6404456). I also chopped off the power plug and replaced it with the normal polarized Molex connector that all video game monitors use. That is Molex part number 19-09-2029 (housing) and 02-09-2101 (.093 male pins). This now makes this chassis compatible with all Jamma harnessed games and monitor test equipment. Oh, and did I mention this chassis uses composite negative sync (which is Jamma standard).

The swap out was easy and took about 30 minutes mainly because I had to solder on a new yoke cable as the original Sharp one had different connectors. The chassis has plenty of adjustment pots on it. I powered it up and the picture looked good! The only adjustments I had to make were to focus and vertical size/position. Color and brightness were already good to go right out of the box! I did not experience any pincushion problems and the picture was straight.

All in all I give this chassis two big thumbs up!

I can see me ordering more of these in the future to repair monitors with missing chassis boards or ones with flybacks that are no longer available (like Sharp XM-2001N and Wells-Gardner 4900 series). Bottom line is it fixed a non-working monitor I had laying around so now I have a fully functioning spare ready-to-go.

thetered · « **Reply #82 on:** November 14, 2003, 06:18:34 pm »

I have a either a 26 or 27in tube that I was giving, I dont have my cab for it yet, but my question is should i beable to still fit this in a 25in cab? Also I've been reading the 8liners chasis page and it says measure the ohm on the neck but doesnt actually say how, where to I get this reading from?

Ken Layton · « **Reply #83 on:** November 14, 2003, 06:25:15 pm »

You need to measure the resistance of the vertical circuit winding of the yoke. The yoke is mounted on the neck of the picture tube and has 4 wires coming out of it terminating in a connector. The 4 wires are usually colored red, blue, green and yellow. If the tube you were given does not have a yoke on it you're screwed.

thetered · « **Reply #84 on:** November 14, 2003, 08:55:11 pm »

Hey i'm not trying to sound dumb here but I dont see where to connect to, My tube is complete with all the wires and stuff and copper spun wire. But I dont see test points or anything. I included a picture I found from further up on the post with two arrow to points on the neck are these the things i sould be testing from, cuase Mine doesnt have anything like that on it.

OSCAR · « **Reply #85 on:** November 14, 2003, 09:41:44 pm »

Hey Ken,

Nice find on the alternate locations for a standard video input header on the chassis! I made an adapter for mine, but when I pick up more of these chassis, I will replace the header like you did. I also cut off the AC plug on mine and replaced it with a standard 2-pin Molex connector. These chassis are pretty nice, aren't they? A great solution, especially for those that really don't want to dink around fixing a 20+ year old one. I have a particular K4600 chassis that is really testing my patience. Every time I replace something on it, another part fails... If this chassis was compatible with a 4600 tube, I would replace it immediately. With your techincal experience, any chance that you could suggest a circuit or modification to the chassis that would allow a pincushion adjustment for it? IMO, that would make these absolutely perfect! BTW, if you have any pics of your tube/chassis that you would like to post, just email them to me and I'll put them up. MonitorGuru hasn't sent me his yet (hint, hint), and I would be happy to host them.

thetered - Look on the underside of the yoke. You should see similar looking lugs on it that have 4 different colored wires on it, most likely red/blue/yellow/green, all going to a single connector plugged into the chassis.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #86 on:** November 14, 2003, 11:45:41 pm »

Oscar:

If you look next to the yoke connector on the Jen Shinn chassis you'll see a silkscreened box drawn on the board with two jumper wires. This looks suspiciously like a spot where a side pincushion transformer goes!

I only have a regular 35mm film camera and haven't taken pictures of the chassis yet.

Macros · « **Reply #87 on:** November 15, 2003, 09:47:39 am »

Hi,

I just put one of these in a Hantarex MTC9000 that had a failed flyback and a cooked resister. When I was looking around at new flybacks they were around $40. So, I decided for $65 to try a new chassis considering the vertical impedance of the yoke was okay at 13-14 ohm. It was pretty easy to install though I had to make new a new yoke cable and a new rgb cable. I still haven't hooked up the degaussing coil since the old connector isn't compatible and there isn't one included. I'm not about to solder directly to the chassis as that would be a major hack. The results are okay, it's very sharp no focus problems but I have a bit of pincushion that is worse on the left side of the screen. The right is almost perfect.

One question, I hacked the included power cord and hooked up a molex connector so I could run it off my iso transformer. Does polarity matter that much in this case? I don't think the powersupply cares because it's a switching power supply. The supplied power cord didn't have a white stripe nor did it have polarized prongs on the end. I looked on the chassis where the ac lines connect and I see and 'n' silk screened on the board. I'm hopeing this is for neutral?

Another question, does anyone notice a lot of blooming especially on fade-ins from a black screen? The picture will temporarily get bright and bloom then returns to normal. I see this a lot when I first load a game in mame and the resolution changes. Could this be related to using my iso transformer? I read a steady 125 vac from it. I might hack it again and put the normal two prong connector back on and see if that helps at all.

Macros

Macros · « **Reply #88 on:** November 15, 2003, 08:39:48 pm »

Doh, figured out he polarity thing one of the wires is smooth "hot" the other is ribbed "neutral", I had it right anyway by looking at the chassis. It still blooms with or without using the iso transformer. Usually this is an indication of a cheaper power supply.

The colours looked good out of the box but something was a miss. First I thought there was too much red so I turned down the red bias but that didn't really help. I ended up using the street fighter test mode and the colour bar test which indicated that blue and green where lacking on the lower end of the ire scale. I used the drive controls on the neck board for blue and green to match the output of the red. Basically, 2 bars were missing on both green and blue on the darker end of the scale. Finally, things look like they should and there is increased detail in darker scenes most notable in Mortal Kombat II.

Macros

OSCAR · « **Reply #89 on:** November 16, 2003, 12:19:57 am »

Hmm, interesting... On my setup, I found that the Green was more prominent over the other colors, and I had to turn up the Red & Blue to get a more balanced picture. I haven't noticed any blooming with the chassis/tube I'm using, but it was a bit tricky to get the focus/brightness set up for a good picture. I'd bet that every chassis/tube combo will result in different adjustments required to dial in a good pic. Luckily, the chassis has tons of adjustment!

Ken - Yes, I see that on the board. And now my question is if you have any suggestions for what to use for a pincushion transformer, or maybe even some Mouser/Digi-Key part no's of ones to try? I don't need one for my current setup, but it would be a nice option for possible future chassis/tube combinations.

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #90 on:** November 17, 2003, 10:04:35 am »

Oscar -- Yep, I know I've been slow. I've got tons of good pics too. I just havn't had free time from life's other projects to hack up some HTML describing each pic in a series for ease in understanding.

I will do my best to get at them sometime this week and zip them up and send em to you.

The "blooming" issue is one I am sorta seeing and calling a 'focus'-like softness issue. Yes, per my experience with TV's, this is a sure sign of a lower quality power supply. Mine seems to bloom on all the tubes perpetually (except the original RCA out of the K4600) , not just a one-time bloom when switching between dark and light.

Perhaps the on board switch-mode isolated power supply is the achilies heal of this beast?

I'll get those pics done and described and (I hope) they show the difference between this chassis and a 4600 in that sharpness/blooming issue on the same tubes.

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #91 on:** November 17, 2003, 10:20:52 pm »

I have the pictures, thumbnails and text done regarding the 5 tube/2 chassis tube swap-a-thon I documented and mentioned above. I am in contact with Oscar to get it placed on his site, as it's 5+ meg in size and I'm sure BYOAC could not host it due to the size.

Will let you know as soon as it's up. I'd like for others to contribute similarily so that we can see what works best with this (or other) chassis and if I've done any setup incorrect/etc..

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #92 on:** November 20, 2003, 09:24:13 am »

*************************************

Pictures are up! Comparison of 8Liners chassis and a Wells-Gardner K46xx Chassis with 5 different picture tubes (4 scavenged from 1980's era Televisions)

These pictures are to accompany the lengthy review post I made on Page 2 of this thread a few weeks ago (and posted to Usenet).

http://www.oscarcontrols.com/chassis

Thanks MUCH to Oscar for hosting the page/pictures.

*************************************

Macros · « **Reply #93 on:** November 21, 2003, 09:49:13 am »

Hi,

Does anyone know the pinout of the 8liners chassis? It's not printed on the solder side of the neckboard like most I've seen. The reason I ask is I think maybe my tube isn't compatible with the chassis and is causing a brightness problem. I'm thinking maybe the G1 pin isn't correct. I have a 10 pin orion tube.

I'm using advmenu with a white background and grey border. As I scroll through my gamelist the intensity of the white and grey change dependant on the brightness of the in game screen shot. For example, if asteroids is selected they are both bright. If I select a game with bright colours they both noticeably dim to the point that the grey border almost turns black. The other weird thing is that white will take on a blue tint if there is a lot of red in the game and likewise there's a red tint with a predominantely blue screenshot.

My flyback makes a low 15Khz hum noise perhaps it's defective? The other thing I see is a vertical squiggle on the left hand side of the screen. I've actually seen this before on a mac monitor and it was fixed by tieing in the Shell ground of the rgb cable to the ground on the monitor. This hasn't helped on my arcade monitor. It kind of looks like a visible sync pulse, perhaps I have to make a composite sync circuit instead of twisting the H and V sync wires together.

I think I'm going to order a new flyback from Bob Roberts and fix the MTC9000 chassis, maybe I'll find a more compatible donor tube in the future.

Macros.

thetered · « **Reply #94 on:** November 21, 2003, 05:57:22 pm »

I have a Sanyo EZ20 that I think i fried the chasis on cause i didnt know it was a 100 Volt system, anyways the tube is still great in it, would an 8liners chasis work on it, I only question the possibility do to the fact that the origional chasis is 100volts, but I dont think that would affect the tube would it?

As anyone tried these chasis's on one yet?

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #95 on:** November 21, 2003, 08:52:29 pm »

> Does anyone know the pinout of the 8liners chassis? It's not printed on the solder side of the neckboard like most I've seen. The reason I ask is I think maybe my tube isn't compatible with the chassis and is causing a brightness problem. I'm thinking maybe the G1 pin isn't correct. I have a 10 pin orion tube.

I believe there are only 2 common pinouts used, and it's based on the # of exposed pins on the tube. Can you give me your tube model # and I'll look up your pinouts in a Sencore reference manual. I'm pretty sure it'll be the same as my 2 Orion tubes shown in the pictures above that Oscar hosted.

> I'm using advmenu with a white background and grey border. As I scroll through my gamelist the intensity of the white and grey change dependant on the brightness of the in game screen shot.

This is more evidence of a weak power supply. Most consumer TV sets have this problem (especially when the contrast control is set at 100% aka "showroom display") The brighter the picture, the more blooming it has and straight vertial lines end up pincushioning outward, especially at the bottom half of the display.

Edit: Also, is it possible you're overdriving the input lines from the PC video card? I assume you must be using some type of amplification to the signal right? (Since PC outputs at 0-.75 volts, where arcade monitors are 1-5 volts.) I havn't worked with PC->arcade monitor conversions.. only have worked with arcade boards outputting the correct levels.

> My flyback makes a low 15Khz hum noise perhaps it's defective? The other thing I see is a vertical squiggle on the left hand side of the screen

If you read my text review (posted earlier in this thread), one of the 2 orion tubes I tried caused the isolation switch-mode transformer to vibrate (more as i turned the screen/guns up in power). The other orion tube did not cause this. Was it actually the flyback or just the iso xformer?

> I have a Sanyo EZ20...

I have a Nintendo Playchoice 10 with 2 Sanyo 20EZ's. IIRC, the ohm resistance on the yokes are around 15ohms (13.9 or so?) and would be good candidates for this chassis. The tubes should have a 510xxxxx designation on their model # if original. Send me the actual # and I'll verify the pinouts/power in Sencore reference for you.

Yes, even though the chassis was 100 volts, the tubes are not required to only work with those chassis. I know a few tube swappers on the newsgroups have swapped in standard US Zenith tubes into Nintendo chassis without problems.

Macros · « **Reply #96 on:** November 22, 2003, 07:20:38 am »

Hi,

Quote

I believe there are only 2 common pinouts used, and it's based on the # of exposed pins on the tube. Can you give me your tube model # and I'll look up your pinouts in a Sencore reference manual. I'm pretty sure it'll be the same as my 2 Orion tubes shown in the pictures above that Oscar hosted.

I believe this is the model # A48JRV90X12. I believe the 90 is the degrees of deflection. There is another longer number on the label but I think that might be the serial#. The vertical yoke measured 13ohms and the horizontal was 2 ohms.

Quote

Edit: Also, is it possible you're overdriving the input lines from the PC video card? I assume you must be using some type of amplification to the signal right? (Since PC outputs at 0-.75 volts, where arcade monitors are 1-5 volts.) I havn't worked with PC->arcade monitor conversions.. only have worked with arcade boards outputting the correct levels.

I'm sure not overdriving the input lines since I'm not using any form of amplification of the pc's output. This hasn't been a problem for me using Pentranic, Hantarex or my old electrohome G07. I know certain monitors like a hotter signal, but I figured a newer chassis like this would take the straight pc output. I did turn up the screen pot slightly not much though, to get a decent picture. Anybody else use this chassis with a mame cabinet? I know Oscar is using a real Jamma PCB so it's getting the hotter signal.

Quote

If you read my text review (posted earlier in this thread), one of the 2 orion tubes I tried caused the isolation switch-mode transformer to vibrate (more as i turned the screen/guns up in power). The other orion tube did not cause this. Was it actually the flyback or just the iso xformer?

I'm not using the iso xformer at this point, it's plugged straight into a powerbar. I'm pretty sure it's the flyback, it's not real loud I can only hear it if I'm behind my cabinet and the door is off. It's a low frequency 15kHz noise, unlike the high pitch noise my Hantarex used to make before it died.

Macros

tom61 · « **Reply #97 on:** November 22, 2003, 01:12:40 pm »

Quote

I'm not using the iso xformer at this point

The 8liner's chassis has one built in, so, yes you are.

Macros · « **Reply #98 on:** November 22, 2003, 05:49:25 pm »

Tom61:

I guess I thought he was talking about an external iso transformer not the one on the chassis. After listening more closely it appears the noise is indeed coming from the onboard transformer situated just behind the flyback. It's pretty dinky compared to the one on the floor of my cabinet, maybe it's possible to bypass it and feed the output from the external iso straight to the DC rectifier? I'm not going to try it, but someone with more knowledge is welcome to experiment.

Maybe we can figure out the weak link in this chassis.

Macros

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #99 on:** November 22, 2003, 06:29:01 pm »

> I believe this is the model # A48JRV90X12.

I could not find this exact model. Did the other number start with a "510" designation? If it does I could look up that way. I did look up 2 closest matching model #s: A48JRV20 and A48JRV70 (similar not identical). They have the exact same pinouts as all other tubes I've seen in arcade games.

Filament Voltage: 6.3v
CRT Bias: 116V/68V
F1: 9
F2: 10
RK: 8
GK: 6
BK: 11
G1: 5
G2: 7

KVoltage: 100
Anode 25KV
Focus 7000V

> I'm sure not overdriving the input lines since I'm not using any form of amplification of the pc's output. This hasn't been a problem for me using Pentranic, Hantarex or my old electrohome G07.

Aha.. As I said in my previous post, unless you're using a specific video card meant to output arcade level signals, the most a PC will output is ~.75 volts on each of the RGB lines. An arcade monitor typically assigns Black 0-1 volts and full onm at 4-5 volts. Therefore you are barely sending enough signal to even get above "black". By turning up the screen and or drive controls you are, in effect, amplifying the signal, but doing so MUCH later in the circuit (just before it gets to the gun/screen grid), after it's done preliminary processing. Therefore I would expect that you'd be seeing the strange pulsing since you're drawing a lot of power to increase the signal once on board, rather than before the board.

I'd look into something to amplify the signal to the level the monitor expect before it gets to the board.

>I'm not using the iso xformer at this point, it's plugged straight into a powerbar.

The 8liners chassis does include an iso transformer directly on board. But it's not a big heavy one like you're used to seeing. The power supply circuit is similar to that of a "switch mode" PC power supply (just a lot simpler, and obiously not as stable). There is a mini transformer on the board, up and to the left center when looking at the board with the flyback in the lower right. It was that which was vibrarting on one Orion tube I had (power issue?). If your flyback is vibrating it may have a cracked core (the iron core vibrates as the power oscilates in it).

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #100 on:** November 22, 2003, 06:34:32 pm »

>I guess I thought he was talking about an external iso transformer not the one on the chassis. After listening more closely it appears the noise is indeed coming from the onboard transformer situated just behind the flyback. It's pretty dinky compared to the one on the floor of my cabinet, maybe it's possible to bypass it and feed the output from the external iso straight to the DC rectifier?

NOPE. That won't work (at least without some more modifications). You see, a "switch mode" power supply is one in which large huge 1:1 transformers are replaced by tiny ones and the frequency of the wave is modified such that it can be passed through a much smaller transformer, then remodified on the other side. (Search for Sci.Electronics.FAQ about SwitchMode supplies if you want to know how they work)

Like I said this is what I noticed on mine with ONE orion tube, but not the other. It lessened when I drove the screen grid and drives less. Going back to my previous post (which just got posted so you havn't even had a chance to read yet), if you've pushed the screen and drive controls to amplify the low voltage PC video card output, that's why the transformer is buzzing so much. You're forcing it to do a LOT of amplification and since it appears the supply is kinda weak, it is pulling more current through it than it should.

Try sending the correct arcade level VGA signal power to the tube, turn down the screen and drives and it should help, and help improve the picture and stop the bad pulsing between light and dark since there will then be more "headroom" on the power supply since it wont be running at max.

Macros · « **Reply #101 on:** November 22, 2003, 07:14:47 pm »

Quote

I could not find this exact model. Did the other number start with a "510" designation?

Here it is R510CK1AY1A-TC12.

I just ordered a couple of RGB video amplifiers from Ultimarc, hopefully that will help. They increase the voltage to normal jamma pcb standards. This is the first arcade monitor chassis I've used that has it's own iso transformer. I'm not so sure it's a good thing especially when the manufacturer is selling them cheap. They are obviously cutting costs somewhere.

Macros

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #102 on:** November 22, 2003, 07:36:29 pm »

Wow. You've got me (actually Sencore) stumped on that tube. I could not find that exact number and found a much different one that had separate grid pins for each gun (not shared like all others). However everything else was so different, the chassis would have blown up if you tried that tube with it, so I wont even both posting it as it couldn't be the correct tube. (fwiw: closest model match was "510CKB22")

Yes, I think upping it to the correct range (without pre-overdriving) should help your problems.

Nerd Of Nerds · « **Reply #103 on:** November 25, 2003, 12:59:58 pm »

hmmm, i decided i wanted to get one of these chassis, so i got an oldish (80's) tv and it has 9 pins

it was from a zenith tv. does it cound 8 if you don't count the pin in the little triangle shaped part of the neckboard? (the connector)

and it doesn't have the ground wire wrapped around it

it just has some L shaped thing on one of the brackets, i believe that this was connected to the ground on the neckboard, can someone explain this? ( i would post pics if i had webspace... ) its 19"

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #104 on:** November 25, 2003, 04:28:05 pm »

What's the model # of the PICTURE tube (sticker directly on side of the tube). Should contain an "19" or "48" or "51" in the number towards the beginning to help you locate it. I can look up the pinouts and determine if it's compatable. Perhaps one pin was redundant and not needed. There normally should be 8 or 10 including the focus grid pin surrounded by the triangular plastic however.

As far as the ground, look closely, there may have been a spring strung across the bottom or diagonally on the tube from corner to corner of those L-brackets. The new chassis will come with a new ground strap. So long as the aquadag (black graphite paint) is still on the outside of the tube then it should work as far as that goes.

However, post the model # of the tube and I'll doublecheck the pinouts for you.

Nerd Of Nerds · « **Reply #105 on:** November 25, 2003, 06:47:05 pm »

well, it doesn't have l shaped brackets, (it has normal brackets) it has on one of the brackets (just one) a thing with some connectors that is making contact with the black stuff, i think it was connected to the cround... is all that it has to do: touch the black stuff and be grounded? and if so could you explain the purpose? and, does the chassis come with a replacement grounding cable? (i had to have someone cut it becuase i was about to drop the crt $:-\$ )

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #106 on:** November 25, 2003, 10:40:25 pm »

Yes, the ground wire from the neckboard only has to touch a relatively small amount of aquadag (black conductive graphite paint) on the outside of the tube to work. The inside of the tube (inside the vacuum) is also coated with it, and is attached to the anode wire under the grey cap. The glass between the two, with a charge supplied, makes a HUGE capacitor. Considering the size of contact of the anode wire (at most, 1 centimeter x 1 milimeter in contact), the ground wire or spring typically touches about 30 centimeters by 1-5 millimeters on a typical tube setup.

So yes, it likely could be a single or couple small connectors touching it would be enough. (The more the better, especially once it gets dirty and moved it could lessen connection (resulting in snapping picture, or crackling sounds or of course no picture)).

Yes, the 8liners chassis comes with a replacement grounding cable (though one poster said it was missing in their box, I definitely received one, and I know it's pictured on Victor's site).

Nerd Of Nerds · « **Reply #107 on:** November 26, 2003, 10:20:00 am »

ok, well, i have never measured the ohm of something before... and i got a digital multimeter and (i certainly hope i did this right...) i youched on wire to the red and the other to the black (on the multimeter) and it game me a rating of 9.6 ohms and it is a 19" tube... i checked the other set of wires it gave me something like 2ohms

i thought a small tube was supposed to have higher ohms

or did i not measure it right? sorry, i make it seem like a am a total retard

but i do know how to install a chassis

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #108 on:** February 11, 2004, 10:18:48 am »

Typically, Yellow+Green = Vertical, Red+Blue = Horizontal deflection.

Yellow+Green (Vert) will be in one of the following ranges on a 19" tube:
8 - 16 ohms LOW impedence
50 - 60 ohms HIGH impedence

Red+Blue (Horiz) will be between 2 and 3.5 ohms on nearly every yoke.

The size of the tube does not necessarily reflect the resistance used in the yoke, but in general, the resistance is LOWER the larger the tube (you need more electricity to flow through the yoke to bend the beam farther on a larger tube, so the yoke has to have less resistance to allow more electrons to flow). A tiny 5" CRT like in portable battery operated TV's likely has very high resistance on the vertical winding, though I've never measured one.

You will note however, if you look at the pictures of the tubes I tested in the 8liners chassis.. TV's sometimes used seeimingly random colors of wires for their yokes, I've seen all combinations, thus why you may have seen red+black = vertical, but always triple check before connecting to not fry the yoke or chassis.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #109 on:** May 29, 2004, 12:16:40 pm »

Check out the new 8 liners replacements (seller: "video1963") on ebay auction item numbers 6100101916 (W-G k7000 replacement, low impedance) and [urlhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=6100063535]6100063535[/url] (Electrohome G07, high impedance).

These are much better since they are manufactured by Weiya/Huai I Electronics/Eygo. They REQUIRE an isolation transformer.

Check out the specs at:

www.weiya.com.tw/monitor/p13.htm (for the 1220 series)

www.weiya.com.tw/monitor/p12.htm (for the 820 series)

Edit by moderator: made some of your info clicky for the lazy.

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #110 on:** May 29, 2004, 09:51:59 pm »

These look strikingly similar to the 8 liners chassis from Genao/Victor. Actually if you look on both auctions there appears to be a standard AC line cord and what appears to be a mini isolation transformer on board, just like Victors. Perhaps the translation was messed up in the box labelling he's copying?

Are these really any different? They appear to have the same labelling on the controls and the same dual yoke connector (to rotate 180 degrees). But they may just use the same design and have slightly different components.

I was hoping the low impedence version was $55 like the high one (since most every TV set tube I've stashed are low impedence) but see he's charging $10 more for the low impedence version.

Wonder if he will start carrying 25" ones.

Thanks for the info. I saw the Electohome replacements for a few months but didnt know he started selling the others.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #111 on:** May 31, 2004, 02:58:19 am »

These are much better than the Jen Shinn chassis sold by 8liners. While they may look similar to the Jen Shinn/8liners chassis, these Weiya/Huai I Electronic/Eygo chassis are much better and these particular models require the use of an isolation transformer (which should already be in your game cabinet anyway). It's odd that Weiya puts on a regular power cord with a standard wall plug on the end, but DON'T PLUG THIS MONITOR INTO A WALL OUTLET OR IT WILL BE DESTROYED IMMEDIATELY! When Eygo was in business (they were the USA importer of the Weiya/Huai I Electronics chassis) they cut off the ewnd of the power cord an installed the familiar 2 pin Molex connector that most video game cabinets use to connect to the isolation transformer.

My experiences with the Weiya/Huai I Electronics/Eygo chassis & monitors have been that they produce an excellent picture, been very reliable, and are easy to repair. I have not seen any with flyback failure. I give it thumbs up!

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #112 on:** May 31, 2004, 01:25:27 pm »

So it may be worth picking up one of these and redoing my 6-tube-swap-a-thon on it and post the results ?

Wonder if he has 25" ones as well? I've been considering picking up a 25" one from Victor (after the reports of the better control on then over the 13-19 versions).. Was Victor's 25 a JS as well? (I think so)

SoundDoc · « **Reply #113 on:** May 31, 2004, 05:18:14 pm »

I now come across this thread... Incredible information guys. I just finished (well almost finished) a crt/chassis swap/rebuild on a 25" K7191.
If I had come across this thread before, I would have most likely just gone with a replacement chassis for the tubes I have around, and saved the trouble with repairing mine and redoing the convergence/purity (due to swapping the yoke).

This thread should almost have a sticky, or a site of its own!
I was aware of the 8liners site, and the replacement Chassis, but I didn't know they had a 25 and larger chassis until now.

Are there any sites that sell the Weiya/Huai I Electronics/Eygo chassis rather than trying to find them on e-bay?

SoundDoctor

Ken Layton · « **Reply #114 on:** May 31, 2004, 06:25:37 pm »

I think the 8liners 25" and larger is a Jen Shinn monitor, but one of the better models.

As to anyone else selling the Weiya/Huai I Electronics in the USA, it was Eygo that imported them here. I'd say check with ebay seller video1963 to see if he has more or can get more.

rchadd · « **Reply #115 on:** May 31, 2004, 08:10:22 pm »

FYI 8 liners chassis (up to 21" tube) on ebay - buy now $70

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13716&item=6100030941

IG-88 · « **Reply #116 on:** January 30, 2005, 10:01:43 am »

Just thought some of this info might be helpful to some of the newbies around here. Besides this thread just won't die.

timofonic · « **Reply #117 on:** February 29, 2008, 03:11:09 pm »

Hello.

Sorry a lot for bumping and old post, but I found this quite interesting.

Any news about this kind of boards? Any chassis (aka the electronic board that converts the high voltage signals and such) supports 15/24/31khz? It could be quite interesting for arcade systems that output these kind or frequencies.

Regards.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #118 on:** February 29, 2008, 06:44:56 pm »

NO.

These replacement chassis boards are for standard resolution monitors only.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #119 on:** April 28, 2008, 08:17:04 pm »

Anyone ever get schematics for the Jen Shinn (8liners) chassis?


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