8liners chassis/TV tube to arcade monitor(Previously: Whooooo mama!)

[nipsmg]

I have one of these for a 27" that I never used.  It's in a box.  It's perfect.

If anyone wants it I'll get rid of it for $60 + shipping, just send me a PM.  I'm never going to use it.

[TheManuel]

Is it a JenShinn Specifically or a Wei-Ya?

[dhansen]

Holy Crap!  An seven year long thread!! Whoot!  Was just looking back on some info on these replacement chassis since I was in need of one again low these many years later.

[IG-88]

See! It will never die!! 

The Arcade Repair Tips guys have talked about these a few times. People using TV's they have picked up at garage sales and Goodwill ect and having good luck.

[Ken Layton]

Just remember, 8liners.com no longer sells the Jen Shinn replacement chassis. All they stock now is the Wei-ya. Alva Amusement sells the Wei-ya also and at much cheaper prices than 8liners.com

[IG-88]

Hey Ken, whats your opinion on the Wei-ya vs. the Jen Shinn? Is one better than the other?

[Ken Layton]

I like them both. The Wei-ya is more widely available than the Jen Shinn here in the USA. Remember, both brands will need to be "Americanized" to be plug n play with most arcade cabinets.

[RejectedManiac]

When I get my income tax I will be ordering 1 of these for my KI machine. Has bad screen burn and have had nothing but problems with this hantarex polo chassis. Sent it at least 4 times for repairs and the last time ended up cracking in the mail. But get this... I can't find any 25" tv's.... By the way I remember a while back Victor told me not to get Sony and something else I think. Can't remember why tho.

[Ken Layton]

Sony Trinitron picture tubes and circuitry are special.

[RejectedManiac]

Special in their own way

[Dragonman73]

Just remember, 8liners.com no longer sells the Jen Shinn replacement chassis. All they stock now is the Wei-ya. Alva Amusement sells the Wei-ya also and at much cheaper prices than 8liners.com

Will Alva amusement work with me on picking out the correct chassis? Or is that something I need to do myself before calling them?

The specs confuse the crap out of me so I'm not sure what to look for. I measured out 8 ohms on the vertical deflection, 10 pin neck board connector, and the model number on the tube is A68 xxxxx which equals a 27" tube.

Looks like on thier site they are showing monitors in the size of 25", 28", and 29" but no 27"  http://www.alvaamusement.com/id5.html

[Ken Layton]

The 826H is for 27" tubes.

[Dragonman73]

The 826H is for 27" tubes.

cool, I'll give them a call tomorrow. I really want to use my 27" screen at this point, just paid a guy for a 27" arcade monitor frame to put this in to...so I'm getting pretty excited.

 This will be going in an old 4-player run and gun (simpsons) cabinet that I'm going to relaminate with black formica. I'm also going to use the old control panel box as a template and build a 2-player box with two, eight way joysticks, one four way joystick, and a track ball. Anything smaller screen size is going to look out of place.

I got a reply back from Victor about his chassis, he told me initially at first that his chassis may or may not work with my 27" screen. I questioned the information on his website that said it would...his reply back was that the website info was wrong, but someone else used his chassis in a 27" and it worked fine??  Maybe alva will have a better price on thier chassis.

Thanks again for your help

[Ken Layton]

Alva's prices are cheaper than 8liners.com

[Dragonman73]

you weren't kidding,the chassis + shipping would have been $89.75 shipped versus the $125 I was quoted at 8liners. 

I went ahead and ordered a isolation transformer with this as well...so the total was right at $105...should ship tomorrow 

Thanks for your help

[LionSri]

ok i`m from the uk and just wondering if i would need to use an isolation transformer from 240v to 120v to get the chassis to power up or are they dual voltage input , also if i do need to use a transformer what typicaly is the minimum wattage of step down transformer i can use

[dhansen]

Wow, I'm rusty.  Anybody (Ken) know where these wires go to on the 8-liners chassis? I'm replacing a board on a monitor I got from Arcade Amusements a while back... Here are the pics:
Thanks for your help!!

[Ken Layton]

In picture #2, the black wire goes to FG (frame ground). The connector with the red & white wires appears to be the degaussing coil. It plugs in next to the frame ground connector.

[dhansen]

Thanks Ken!  Worked like a charm... You are the master!

[Dragonman73]

Got my monitor chassis and isolation transformer in last friday, along with my used 27" arcade monitor frame from arcade boneyard. I'll post my step by step in another thread, mostly because there is very little information about this subject on this site, especially with detailed pictures.

I'm 125% positive I'm going to have a few questions so everyone be ready 

[dph84b]

First of all, great 8 year post!

I want to run a mame computer with an arcadevga video card, and have it drive one of the replacement chassis hooked up to a 25" tube.

I am experienced and educated in electronics, though not extensively with tv tubes.  although i have taken apart and discharged them successfully before.

Questions:
1) which site is currently the forerunner for selling these replacement chassis, if i want to ignore jamma compatability altogether, and highly prioritize operation and picture quality.  (My tube is an RCA brand if that makes any difference)

2) why am i having issues reading the original posts by the user called MAMEFan?  some of the information i really need seems to be cut off in his posts... not sure whats going on there.

3) are there still little problems like "blooming" and "pincushioning" with some of these newer chassis?  Which has the least?
Thanks a lot

[IG-88]

Not much help really, but I have heard of some luck being had with 8liner's chassis.

Have you asked this over at the KLOV forums? May have better luck over there.

[dhansen]

I'm so proud of this post, I'm going to bring it into 2012!! 

[IG-88]

Ha! Second archaic post I've read today. Amazing!

[TGov]

Ok, I am going to dig this thread up out of the grave again

I have an Orion tube out of a WG K7000.  I don't have the chassis and was wondering if the M3119-21 chassis would work with it.  Also, I am assuming I still need an Iso transformer with these chassis.

[Ken Layton]

I've not heard of that Wei-ya model and have no specifications about it.

You also did not state the size of the tube from your K7000. If 19" version, is it 22.5 mm diameter neck (small neck) or 29mm diameter neck (large neck).

[TGov]

Sorry, ya it is the small neck version. 19"

[TGov]

I am also getting 14.2 Ohm on the yellow and green wires on the yoke.

[Ken Layton]

The K7000 series chassis is considered "low impedance".

You may have to contact Wei-ya to get the specifications of that model Wei-ya chassis you have since I have no information on it.

http://www.weiya.com.tw/

[TGov]

I don't have one yet, I was just looking at the Alva website, trying to figure out which chassis I need for this tube.

http://www.alvaamusement.com/id5.html

[Ken Layton]

For the tube/yoke you now have, you would need the 1220-S (S means small neck) chassis if you need one that needs an isolation transformer. This is the cheapest chassis.

If you want a chassis that does not need an isolation transformer, the buy either the 2420-S or 2620-S. These cost more.

[TGov]

Thank you Ken for the information!  I have a spare Atari transformer assembly, could I use that for an Iso?

[Ken Layton]

If the Atari transformer assembly has a monitor section in it then you could use it.

[TGov]

It does, it is out of a pole position cab.  Thanks Ken.

[rCadeGaming]

Looks like I'm a little late to the party, but heck, let's see if we can keep this thing going into 2013.

I've read through the whole thread, and there's still a few things I've been unsure of for a while.  Mind if I ask some dumb questions?

1. What are the advantages of putting an arcade monitor chassis onto a tv tube, instead of just using the TV as is?

I can see the obvious one, that it provides an input for 5Vpp RGBS from PCB's.  I guess this is a must on older TV's with limited inputs, but CRT's with component inputs are practically free in the US now, so you can feed the RGBS through a transcoder with basically no loss in quality; and of course you can use an RGB SCART input in other regions.  (Should put some resistors on the lines to bring it down to ~1Vpp, and maybe some filter capacitors, not hard though).

I guess another would be geometry controls, but don't most analog chassis TV's have pots inside for this?  I doubt these replacement chassis's would have as much geometry control as the digital service menu on my Trinitron.

Am I missing something big?

2. From what I've read, it looks like all of these are 15kHz chassis's?  Is it possible to enable different scan rates with a different chassis?  Is the limitation in how fast a CRT can scan in the timing circuitry on the chassis, the electron guns/deflection equipment/something else in the tube, or both?

I'm guessing the tube itself limits the scan rate, but this is totally a guess.  If I could turn my TV into a trisync, I'd switch the chassis out real quick!

3. Are there any replacement chassis's for Trinitrons?  I know it's a totally different beast, but I've got one working in native res right now and I love the scanline thickness/appearance, the look of the aperture grille, the dot pitch, the flat face tube, etc.

[rCadeGaming]

Really, no response?  Ken?  TGov?

[amendonz]

Snaaake is banned?

[Ken Layton]

Looks like I'm a little late to the party, but heck, let's see if we can keep this thing going into 2013.

I've read through the whole thread, and there's still a few things I've been unsure of for a while.  Mind if I ask some dumb questions?

1. What are the advantages of putting an arcade monitor chassis onto a tv tube, instead of just using the TV as is?

I can see the obvious one, that it provides an input for 5Vpp RGBS from PCB's.  I guess this is a must on older TV's with limited inputs, but CRT's with component inputs are practically free in the US now, so you can feed the RGBS through a transcoder with basically no loss in quality; and of course you can use an RGB SCART input in other regions.  (Should put some resistors on the lines to bring it down to ~1Vpp, and maybe some filter capacitors, not hard though).

I guess another would be geometry controls, but don't most analog chassis TV's have pots inside for this?  I doubt these replacement chassis's would have as much geometry control as the digital service menu on my Trinitron.

Am I missing something big?

2. From what I've read, it looks like all of these are 15kHz chassis's?  Is it possible to enable different scan rates with a different chassis?  Is the limitation in how fast a CRT can scan in the timing circuitry on the chassis, the electron guns/deflection equipment/something else in the tube, or both?

I'm guessing the tube itself limits the scan rate, but this is totally a guess.  If I could turn my TV into a trisync, I'd switch the chassis out real quick!

3. Are there any replacement chassis's for Trinitrons?  I know it's a totally different beast, but I've got one working in native res right now and I love the scanline thickness/appearance, the look of the aperture grille, the dot pitch, the flat face tube, etc.

1. Arcade monitors as well as the universal replacement chassis are made for commercial use. As such, they are made to be repaired not thrown away like home tv sets. Look at how many Electrohome G07 monitors are still around plus you can still get brand new parts for them. Try to find an Admiral television set from 1980 still operating, let alone find new parts for it. The better replacement chassis have lots of adjustments (contrast and pincushion especially).

2. The vast majority of the universal replacement chassis are 15 khz scan only. Only a select few universal chassis have other scan frequencies (at a higher cost of course) and only work with certain yokes.

3. Sharp Image (rebranded Kortek) had one model specially designed to work with a Sony Trintron tube. I've only heard about it and have never seen one.

[rCadeGaming]

Ken, thanks for the response.

Fair enough about the availability of parts.  Quality TV's are fairly reliable and don't need servicing often though.  A good Trinitron can have at least 20 years of healthy service life.  My brother has one that was manufactured in 1990.  He uses it regularly and it still looks great for a set from that era.  The sets I'm interested in were produced in the early 2000's and they seem to be pretty rock solid so far.

You might be screwed if you do have a problem, but I can stockpile enough TV's to last a lifetime practically for free.

As for the level of adjustment, check out the service menu for Sony Chassis BA-6.  There are dozens of adjustments for both geometry and color.