FLYNN'S ARCADE (Project Code Name: Overambitious) - FINISHED

[ChanceKJ]

So today i heard the most wonderful thing in the world: "Honey, if you put Pac-Man on it i'll play."

[ChanceKJ]

Ooo, 2 pages 

Picked up the TV today, and the slim wall bracket. I thought about just bolting the TV in there, but i wanted a clean look and easy removal.


Oh, found a place to buy castors.
LOTS of castors.

[ChanceKJ]

Why did I just buy a foot of 1-1/2" clear acrylic pipe.... 

<Insert Evil Laugh Here>

[yotsuya]

This can only end in tears.

[ChanceKJ]

This can only end in tears.

 

Trust me, this will be cool. More updates coming soon folks...

[ChanceKJ]

Ok, proper update time.

First, the important part: Buttons. Susan was a HUGE help over at Paradise Arcade. I asked a metric ton of questions and she was kind enough to put up with me. Like seriously. Just awesome. The button/LED order has been made, and with the exception of a few building materials i've gotten all the huge purchases out of the way. This order included all the buttons, RGB LED's for everything, some new ball tops and a few random small things i needed.

Again, Susan if you're reading this, thanks for putting up with my crap!


Also, the t-moulding samples i ordered have arrived. They all look pretty good except the standard black one i asked for. Its the one i was mainly looking at and it's the wrong size. Oh well. The translucent one gives me an idea though.



Lee (HaRuMaN) has been helping me with some design issues. Preparing the complex bits for me in a CAD file that I can take to a CnC to be milled.  I'm loving what he's done so far. He's also someone who needs to be given a medal for putting up with me. 

Here's a rough mockup so far


Now, on to the cool bit. Late last night I was awake and trying to figure out how I was gonna solve the problem of lighting the joysticks.  I didn't want to use LED ball tops, (personally i think those look goofy).  And as stated before i'm a huge fan of Nephasth's Two-Headed Beast, but i don't have the luxury of popping a layer of acrylic between my CP top and the joystick plate.  Then it hit me, i have 3/4" of depth to work with! So, mind the crude drawings i made at 4am last night but here's what i have in mind:





Lee's working on the design and building it into the CP. I've ordered a foot of the acrylic tube, the plans call for 1/2" inserts in each joystick. and i figure if i rough them up with a wire brush i'll be able to experiment with the amount of light they give off.  More on this later.

[yotsuya]

Before you spend too much on that translucent t-molding, let me just state that previous posters have proven over the years that it probably won't do what you think it will do. Maybe you can figure something out, but it doesn't work with light the way you think it will.

[ChanceKJ]

Before you spend too much on that translucent t-molding, let me just state that previous posters have proven over the years that it probably won't do what you think it will do. Maybe you can figure something out, but it doesn't work with light the way you think it will.

Yeah, don't worry, i won't be buying it in bulk any time soon.

the Gold and Chrome pieces are totally clear under the metallic layer...

[yotsuya]

Yeah, I've gotten those samples.

Someone should make white black-light reactive t-molding. That might be cool.

[BadMouth]

Why did I just buy a foot of 1-1/2" clear acrylic pipe....

That is probably cause.  The police will raid your house and shoot you while you sleep.

The translucent one gives me an idea though

If you're thinking about illuminating, it doesn't work that great.
The t-molding doesn't diffuse the light at all.
If you scuff the crap out of it and use EL tape under both sides, it might give you the look that nobody has been able to achieve.

Experiment with your sample before sinking any money into the idea. (if that was your idea)

[Nephasth]

Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!

[CaptainMarvel]

From where can/does one request/order t-molding samples?

 

[ChanceKJ]

Haha Probable cause. Nice.  No man, this is Canada, unless your running a grow op out of your basement no one will give you grief.

Yeah. I wasn't planning in buying that stuff in bulk at all. Good to know others have tried to light it. I was thinking of testing with a slot cutting bit that dug a channel under the t slot. Then I'd run one of those 5m LED light strips you see on eBay thru the channel.  I wasn't going to use it on this Cab. It was just a thought.

From where can/does one request/order t-molding samples?

Tmoulding.com

 

[ChanceKJ]

Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!

Thanks! Inspiration came from your machine.  Also if it's a miserable failure I'll place the complete weight of blame on you as well.   

[ChanceKJ]

Coin door ordered.  Had to ship it to Family in the US, but if thats what it takes, then thats what it takes.

Looks like the CAD work is done. Lee (HaRuMaN) has been instrumental in helping me get the physical design of the CP and Cab walls down. As soon as i get those plans from him i'll be able to get a couple quotes for CnC from a few places in town.

We've managed to get the P1-P2 button layout down to a science, and it only took 4 tries. Lee was awesome, he knew exactly what i was thinking when i suggested changes, (priceless thing to have for a long distance collaboration on a project).  The button layout is a bit extreme and as non-traditional as can be. But it fits not only my hand well, but also the hands of a few big time gamers that i work with at my office. Thats a win.



Design work for the LED Joystick lighting is done. Acrylic and LEDs have been bought and shipped. Cross your fingers that this will work folks.




To find/buy/do still:
-GET power supply for 12v (marquee, coin door, drawer light,)
-GET marquee LED strip
-GET marquee retainer
-GET drawer parts and electronics
-GET order speaker grills
-GET LEDs lights for coin door.
-GET castors
-GET Kickplate
-Find quick disconnect supplier
-Cab/marquee artwork printed


More to come...

[BadMouth]

The button layout is a bit extreme and as non-traditional as can be.

Looks like the layout for the arcade stick for the original Xbox.
The bottom and far right buttons were left and right trigger, which I thought made a lot of sense.
The new fight sticks have HP and HK (street fighter layout) as right trigger and right button.

[ChanceKJ]

Goodies of the day...





Hey Logitech, wtf was with all the packaging on these speakers?  I'd have a better chance breaking into the vault at the Bellagio!

[HaRuMaN]

 

[ChanceKJ]

Some damn fine work you did there Lee.

[HaRuMaN]

Some damn fine work you did there Lee.

Glad to be of service! I can't wait to see that lighting done...   

[ChanceKJ]

Gentlemen, i'm going to need some help with this part...

I'm looking to replace this board with a couple chassis mounted bits instead.

First, i don't want to modify the board, i'd like to just disconnect it and set it aside. I don't mind messing with the two leads plugged into it, we can strip and re-crimp wire at will.

Loos like the one of the left is power from the amp. and the one on the right is the 3.5mm.

I need help figuring out:

A. What chassis mounted volume knob i should buy to replace this one. (on eBay, with free shipping if possible)
B. What leads to connect this to a 3.5mm chassis mount jack i already have on the way.
C. any other parts i need to pick up.

IF the board has to be sacrificed for the good of the cause thats cool, I just don't want to pooch this all by accident and have to go out and buy another set.

Here's the board:



 Here's the jack i have coming:



Ideas?

[Nephasth]

This is where a multimeter comes in handy. Just ohm out the contacts of the existing jack to the pins that solder to the board, then do the same with the new jack, that will tell you what pins on the new jack need to be ran to what solder points on the board. Same thing with the volume pot. Desolder the pot from the board. Measure it's resistance, that will tell you what new pot you will need to order.

[ChanceKJ]

So it would be a better bet to just get some wick and pull off the existing pot and 3.5. Run new leads to the new parts and then mount this little board along side my Lono2 and LED boards? I could live with that.

[zanna5910]

Time to make that dream a reality.  Make some sawdust...  Excited to see some build in this build thread!

[ChanceKJ]

Time to make that dream a reality.  Make some sawdust...  Excited to see some build in this build thread!

Agreed, but I'm patient. I've got a knack for pre planning. Besides I've been waiting on the completion of the CAD for the Cab. Now that that's done I can make a move on the wood bits

Proper preparation is the greatest contributing factor to success of ones goals.

[zanna5910]

Time to make that dream a reality.  Make some sawdust...  Excited to see some build in this build thread!

Agreed, but I'm patient. I've got a knack for pre planning. Besides I've been waiting on the completion of the CAD for the Cab. Now that that's done I can make a move on the wood bits

Proper preparation is the greatest contributing factor to success of ones goals.

Your reply is far too logical.     Just getting excited for you and the build to see it come together.

[ChanceKJ]

Your reply is far too logical.     Just getting excited for you and the build to see it come together.

You're telling me! I have an update from DHL on my phone saying my order from Ultimarc has arrived at my local sort facility!  Looks like half my parts come in tomorrow!!

[ChanceKJ]

Funny story: Ok, moments after i hit "Post" on that reply i got up out of my desk to head to a place across town that might be doing my CnC work. I was on my way down the street from my office when i saw a DHL truck behind me. I thought "what the hell, just maybe...". I pulled over and flagged the guy down and sure enough he had just left a package under my name at our loading dock. The DHL app on my phone hadn't even updated yet.  I turned back and headed down the block to find my shipment from Ultimarc waiting there for me.  That got here from the UK so fast my head's still spinning. Wicked.

-2 x J-Stik Ball-Top                 
-4 x Joystick Mounting Kits (5mm)
-2 x PacLED64 Advanced LED Controller.
-1 x U-TRAK FlushMount Arcade Trackball. (U-Trak Pearl  with USB2 + Cable)             
-1 x U-Trak RGB LED Illumination Kit     
-2 x UltraStik 360 Ball Top with USB cable
-4 x UltraStik 360 Long Handle Shaft. (Ball top)



I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's.  Anyone else do that with theirs?

[Nephasth]

I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's.  Anyone else do that with theirs?

Stiff springs are a must for the U360s IMO.

[jdbailey1206]

I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's.  Anyone else do that with theirs?

Stiff springs are a must for the U360s IMO.

It definitely feels better with the stiff springs.  I would stay away from the octagonal restrictor plate.  It doesn't give you a far enough throw and tends to feel extremely restrictive when playing most games.  I found its easier just to have a 4-8 way and change as needed.   

[ChanceKJ]

Wicked. I'll order some springs then.

Thanks guys.

[ChanceKJ]

Just a thought on my joystick light design, Dust washer,  is it really a big problem if I skip them? Or should I add a couple washers around the bolts of the mounting plates to get clearance to put them under the CP and glue my acrylic inserts in place? (well I was gonna glue them anyways)

[HaRuMaN]

Just a thought on my joystick light design, Dust washer,  is it really a big problem if I skip them? Or should I add a couple washers around the bolts of the mounting plates to get clearance to put them under the CP and glue my acrylic inserts in place? (well I was gonna glue them anyways)

Get some clear dust washers... problem solved.

[ChanceKJ]

That was a consideration too. But I'm not sure I want them up top scratching the artwork up. And it's not like I can put felt under them.

I could rig up a noiseless fan system that pushes air under them to make them levitate, and also keep my hand cool....   Naaaa. 

[ChanceKJ]

Been busy today.

Had a buddy who's way more talented with a soldering iron remove the volume switch and hack in some new 1' leads. we took the time to record the resistance of the old volume wheel. I just need to figure out the right chassis mounted replacement for it and wire it up. if anyone would like to suggest a part number from a supplier that would be great. For i do not know such things and this is venturing into the unknown for me.








My button/RGB LED order shipped today. Awesome.
A few smaller things i still need to get. Speaker grills, power supply, random hardware bits, marquee holder.  We're getting there.

...Picked up this for a crazy experiment I want to do with the CP:

[Hockeyboy]

Love what you got going so far. I'll be tuning in, especially to check in on the computer and the Hyperspin setup. 

[Nephasth]

Looking at that volume pot, and following the traces, I'm assuming it's a dual gang pot. Meaning it's two pots in one. One for the headphones, and one for the speakers. I'm assuming it's using a shared ground between both.



Based on your ohm readings, you'll probably want to find a dual gang 50K ohm pot with an audio taper. And when you go to connect the new pot, connect its ground pins from both gangs together (since your new pot will likely have 6 pins).

[AlienInferno]

I think I'll quietly subscribe to this build and mention a few things.  First is the post about stiffer springs and octogonal restrictors. I have both in my U360's as well as the longer shafts and I really like the feel of them for most games. The only gripe I have with the restrictors is that any game that requires a digital stick (ie. Nintendo 64's James Bond Goldeneye game) the throw is to short. It makes it very hard to move the cursor slowly across the screen as apposed to zooming franticly across.

Second would be about the clear dust washers and your artwork. How are you planning on building your CP?  Most I've seen that use artwork have it underneath a layer of plexiglass. Shouldn't have to worry about the artwork getting scratched then.

Looking at that volume pot, and following the traces, I'm assuming it's a dual gang pot. Meaning it's two pots in one. One for the headphones, and one for the speakers. I'm assuming it's using a shared ground between both.



Based on your ohm readings, you'll probably want to find a dual gang 50K ohm pot with an audio taper. And when you go to connect the new pot, connect its ground pins from both gangs together (since your new pot will likely have 6 pins).

This is aimed more at Nephasth but from my understanding of dual gang pots is that they are for stereo output. One side controls the left channel, one controls the right.  I don't remember exactly how my setup was but I'm guessing it goes something like: audio source (ie sound card) > potentiometer > headphone jack > output (speakers).  That way the one dual gang pot would be controlling both channels for both the headphones and speakers.  Now if it was a mono signal you may be right.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[ChanceKJ]

Second would be about the clear dust washers and your artwork. How are you planning on building your CP?  Most I've seen that use artwork have it underneath a layer of plexiglass. Shouldn't have to worry about the artwork getting scratched then.

Design hadn't called for a layer of plexi. Just the 3/4" with the vinyl print stuck on top.

I was thinking of gluing my lighting inserts in place, then using washers on the screws of the joystick mounting plate to raise it past the dust washer height and pit them between the plate and the wood. But I mean, is it really bad if I just skip them all together ?

[Nephasth]

This is aimed more at Nephasth but from my understanding of dual gang pots is that they are for stereo output. One side controls the left channel, one controls the right.  I don't remember exactly how my setup was but I'm guessing it goes something like: audio source (ie sound card) > potentiometer > headphone jack > output (speakers).  That way the one dual gang pot would be controlling both channels for both the headphones and speakers.  Now if it was a mono signal you may be right.

Good catch. Hell of a brain fart... Looking at the pics again it looks like it goes audio source > headphone jack > potentiometer > speakers.