FLYNN'S ARCADE (Project Code Name: Overambitious) - FINISHED

[Nephasth]

Now that I've got access to photoshop, this was easier to make. Red = right, white = left.

[ChanceKJ]

But still, a 50k dual is what I'm looking for correct?  There's an electronics supply store a couple blocks from my office. I'll hit them up for one on Monday.

Also dustwashers, I'm starting to think for the potential of hand pinching, I might mount some clear ones. JLF and JLW have the same shaft size correct? If so, I like these:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Joysticks-Washer-JLF-clear_1032.html

Those should work on my 360's and j-sticks correct? Are this available for order stateside? I can't seem to find them anywhere else but here.

[PL1]

On this side of the pond, you can get clear JLF washers here or here.

Another option is Justin at TEFightStands -- his B/S/T thread for custom dust washers is here.




Scott

[lcmgadgets]

Just tuned in on this 1. Go man, go! 

[ChanceKJ]

On this side of the pond, you can get clear JLF washers here or here.

What about Art's Hobbies?  I mean, if i gotta put something on there then i might as well make something custom etched and cool. Plus these are laser cut and don't have any marks from the injection moulding that make the part look cheesy or cheap.  Anyone had experience with this guy?

Just tuned in on this 1. Go man, go! 

Haha, thanks man

[Nephasth]

If you want etched dust washers, just go to a local trophy shop. They should have a laser engraver that can do any design you can think of.  And they should have different thicknesses of acrylic on hand.

[ChanceKJ]

If you want etched dust washers, just go to a local trophy shop. They should have a laser engraver that can do any design you can think of.  And they should have different thicknesses of acrylic on hand.

 

Thought crossed my mind, but i'm also looking at how clean and simple the physical washer looks from Art's.

[ChanceKJ]

Here, this is where my mind was going with this...

These:


With this:

[PL1]

You may want to allow for the fact that the washer will turn easily.

Consider moving the logo to the 6 o'clock position and rotating it 90 degrees each step as you add three more logos at 9, 12 and 3 -- whichever way it turns the logo closest to you is always upright.

Alternate version, move the logo to the 12 o'clock and repeat the process -- logo on the side of the washer away from you is always upright.


Scott

[ChanceKJ]

You may want to allow for the fact that the washer will turn easily.

Consider moving the logo to the 6 o'clock position and rotating it 90 degrees each step as you add three more logos at 9, 12 and 3 -- whichever way it turns the logo closest to you is always upright.

Alternate version, move the logo to the 12 o'clock and repeat the process -- logo on the side of the washer away from you is always upright.

Scott

Seriously, get the hell out of my head...

I've been playing with a version of it with two, three, and four logos, but they all just looked too busy. I eventually settled on just a single one that you see above. i'm not gonna really mind if they rotate around. My obsessive compulsive self will just align them each time i'm done playing .

No word of a lie, i had a variation that looks AWESOME, but strangely familiar. I was just about to finalize it when i realized it was familiar because it was the exact same font, size, and look of the iOS 7 lock screen numbers. 




I was like "$hit!" and promptly opened a browser window to DaFont.com.

[ChanceKJ]

OOoooo, Updates!

Today I received a wonderful email about the planned artwork for my Cab. Thats all i'm really going to say because i'm still keeping this a secret.

In other news i spent like an hour at MRO picking out some of the last few cab bits as far as power supplies and electrics goes.  We think we've ordered to proper potentiometer to replace the volume control on the speaker breakout. It's gonna take 2-3 weeks before it gets here tho.

Parts list from todays shopping trip:
-12v power supply and power cord.
-2x Terminal blocks
-#6 Spade terminal crimp on connectors
-Volume knobs (only need one, and it will go to 11)
-20ft of dual line 18 gauge wire.
-4 black 120mm fan grills (On Order)
-Potentiometer (On Order)

<---Oooo Shiny!


I gotta say, the folks at MRO are amazing. If you are in the Calgary Area, or just want to find someone who really knows his stuff call them up and ask for Steve Shepherd.   

[ChanceKJ]

Progress.

Not bad for the first time i've ever done this. I mean, I wouldn't get me to wire a stealth bomber just yet.

...YET.



Oh, Lesson #12: Don't keep Nibs next to the red spade connectors. Accidents happen.

[mcseforsale]

Mmmmmmmmmmmm  Spade connectors!

AJ

[TKW4rr10r]

Very curious to see where this is going, keep up the great work! 
That's a very unique button layout, as well. I just can't wrap my head around how/what you would be playing with that 

[ChanceKJ]

...That's a very unique button layout, as well. I just can't wrap my head around how/what you would be playing with that 

GTA 2.

Nuf' Said.

[ChanceKJ]

The main idea with it is that all 5 fingers are on a button at all times. Those three top ones per p1/p2 are just extra in case I'm playing a game (ie GTA2) where I need some alternate keys.

[Bambam1963]

Too funny 

[Bambam1963]

Ok, proper update time.

... quote shortened per request ... saint

Go big or go home...and it doesn't look like your going home ;-)

[Bambam1963]

OOoooo, Updates!

... quote shortened per request ... saint

Calgary.  Oh how I miss thee.  My favourite city.  Stuck in Ottawa :-(

[ChanceKJ]

Hmm, bit of crappy news. USPS says that my foot of acrylic tubing and heat shrink is delayed because of an "Incorrect address". These are two separate shipments from two different eBay sellers. This I don't understand because i've been using this eBay/PayPal account for everything and the address IS spot on.  Tried calling the USPS customer support line. Got a machine, wouldn't give me to a human.     If this turns into a major problem i've already secured potential local vendors for possible replacements.

In other news none of my Molex parts have shown up yet...    ...wtf.

Um, Oh! Positive news. Ordered my marquee light and some PCB standoffs from GGG tonight. Also ordered my tokens, and a couple small finishing touches for the theme.

I get my hands on my coin door on the 11^th. the family i shipped it too will be coming up from Washington to hand deliver it. Apparently the thing weighs 13lbs!

Oh and i THINK i found a vinyl printer, There's one i have my eye on because the girlfriend works with them through her work so that might be a win. Speaking of which, i think i've secured an amazing win for the cab artwork. I don't want to give it away, but the fact that he returned my email saying he was down for helping was awesome! Lets hope this pans out. Once i've secured that then maybe i'll let the cat out of the bag on the theme.   

[ChanceKJ]

...My acrylic tube has arrived, (no thanks to USPS and Canada Post.  ).

Other parts also in the mail today:

-Diamond plate samples (i think i like black)
-Tie downs, (er, whatever they're called.)
-Heat shrink (for isolating the pushbutton colours)



Now for some more bad news. The place i had high hopes to do the CnC work for me just came back with a $920 quote to mill my PC top and cab sides.  . Nope.
So now i'm on the hunt for a new CnC in town if they can't justify why the plywood and time on the table would cost me so bloody much. There are a dozen CnC's in town by my math. I'll find one or do it the old fashion way.

Now, what to do with these extra metal samples. Well, i had grabbed a couple extra flat black metal ones in hopes to use one as the mounting plate for the I/O i'm putting on the front of the CP. As you can see by the knob in the picture, adding a 3.5mm port and USB should fit. And yes, the knob will "go to 11" as previously stated.



I have a crap-ton of shipments coming in from all over the US, Europe and Asia for random parts. I love eBay. The Coin door has safely arrived in the hands of my American kin. I'll have to wait to get that from them on Veteran's Day. But in the mean time I have a foot of this acrylic pipe so i said, "hey what the hell, lets proof-of-concept up this b!tch!"   I wanna thank Ultimarc for not only shipping my sticks in these boxes, but for providing just the right size for my prototype! This will work as long as the CP top is built correctly. I know now that i'm also going to want to defuse the light in the tube for sure. i'm thinking grabbing some steel wool or a small wire brush and scuffing the insert up, i've got enough of it i can do a few tests. I'm going to have to paint the joystick plate gloss black too. This is a bad picture, but trust me it was badass in person.




And i know what you're all saying: "This build sucks! Where's the sawdust!"  Well, to that i say "SHUDAP!" i'm getting there.

Well in lieu of that i present to you my dog. In a shark suit. Taunting my fish.    Ha!





(not quite sure why she doesn't get annoyed when we do stuff like this to her.)

[Rick]

And i know what you're all saying: "This build sucks! Where's the sawdust!"  Well, to that i say "SHUDAP!" i'm getting there.

I feel your pain!

Looking good so far. Can't wait for more.

[HaRuMaN]

Yeah, what you are wanting to get cut should run in the $200 range I would estimate... maybe $250.

[ChanceKJ]

That's what I'm going to tell them. It was funny how excited I was right up until the second the PDF loaded on my iPad, and then boom,  I've put out a couple calls for a backup. We'll see where this goes.

[yotsuya]

That's what I'm going to tell them. It was funny how excited I was right up until the second the PDF loaded on my iPad, and then boom,  I've put out a couple calls for a backup. We'll see where this goes.

Just to put it in perspective, my local CNC guy cut me a new Star Wars cabinet out of MDF for $160.

[ChanceKJ]

Hmm, yeah that helps. Hopefully I'll hear back from them today. I want to get this ball rolling. I could build a CnC for under a grand!  I figured if they high balled me it would have been like $350/400. But not over 9.

[ChanceKJ]

Big day! My Paradise Arcade order came in!!

-36 IL Transparent/Black concave buttons
-4 IL player buttons
-40 IL RGB LED's
-1 RGB LED (to spotlight the coin door) 
-4 ball tops
-Lono2 PCB
-Button wrench





A little less exciting, but still quite important: My speaker grills have arrived!



I've started to install the LEDs into the buttons. And I know PA says you don't need to modify the IL buttons for these but I decided I didn't like the wires coming out of the tab holes. To many potentials for the tiny 22 gauge wire to wear and fray. So I did what any self respecting man with power tools does and drilled some holes.




I've got a lot of work to do now. 

[ChanceKJ]

OK, Question.

I've got a lot of these buttons to do. but i don't seem to see installation instructions for the LEDs anywhere that can answer my question.  I know i'm to install the LED packs inside the button under the spring, but there are bare wire ends protruding out from the tops of these LED packs, and the springs are metal....  do i just go out and get a roll of Kapton tape and cover the edges of the circuit board?  Has anyone else installed these buttons?  I mean, i guess i'm not bridging a circuit that will do any kind of harm or set off any of the LED's. but is this kosher?

[ChanceKJ]

only took a few hours, but i'm done.  Just need the Molex to make them complete!



OH! and i wired up the power supply so i could do this and get a sense of accomplishment for staying up all night...

[TKW4rr10r]

Cannot wait to see this CP come together. Awesome work!

Had the same theme in mind for my 4 player: understated black controls but with RGB ring lights. Was looking at those very buttons or the Seimitsu PS-14-GN-KN:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/seimitsu-pushbuttons/939-seimitsu-ps-14-gn-kn-black.html

You still using two PacLED64 to control everything correct? I'll be in the corner taking notes 

[ChanceKJ]

Cannot wait to see this CP come together. Awesome work!...

...You still using two PacLED64 to control everything correct? I'll be in the corner taking notes 

Thanks!

Yeah, that's the plan. I figure P3/P1 for one, and P2/P4 for the second. Then little odds and ends for the coin door spot RGB LED, trackball, etc. will be split between them both.  I just picked up a 16foot strip of 12v waterproof RGB LEDs with a mini remote. The ubiquitous ones on ebay. But I wanted to find the black strip ones. I'm planning on running them around the back of the cab for glow. 

I'm kinda stuck now until more parts come in or I get CnC access. My new crimpers, .187" QD's, and my joystick LEDs are still enroute. ...and where the hell is my Molex order?!?!!

[ChanceKJ]

Scanline generators? Thoughts?  SLG2x vs. SLG3000? 

-Are those two my best options?
-Going from a MacMini Display-port to VGA, to the SLG to the VGA on the 32"?

whichever way i go, desoldering the on/off switch and running it to my CP I/O with a little toggle? Thoughts?

[ChanceKJ]

Continuing the obsession. More updates!

First, custom artwork for the coin reject buttons to match the dustwashers.   ( still keeping the theme under wraps )




Next, in thinking i was trying to solve a problem i didn't realize i probably won't have (say that 5 times fast). I purchased a small chunk of HeatShrink to mask off my buttons from the inevitable colour bleed issue that other Cabs have seen. Then it struck me like a metric ton of bricks: I have a ¾" thick CP that will block most of the light bleed anyway! So a potential waste of money on the heat shrink for now until i can find a use for it (I'm sure i will).

Since then, in case the need does arise for a masking, i needed a plan.  I've tried a few different things around the house. but it seems the best could be velcro tape i use for cable management around the house. It was too wide for what i needed so i just split it in half!  Its solid, stays put, and infinitely reusable.  If i run into the problem we'll have a solution.



Now on to the bad news. My attempt to create custom black QD insulators and PCB feet has failed.  After 24 hours soaking in Rit dye mix solution not only did the clear nylon insulators turn a clowdy yellow, but the PCB feet didn't take any colour at all. My only other option is to try the stovetop method. Mind you i might just abandon this plan and keep the clear covers and paint the feet black if they stick out.  Ah well, Can't win them all.

[Nephasth]

Tuck your PCB feet under your boards like this I-PAC. I angled the feet towards the center of the board.

[ChanceKJ]

Tuck your PCB feet under your boards like this I-PAC. I angled the feet towards the center of the board.

That's so simple. Why didn't I think of that. Haha.

Thanks.

[mcseforsale]

Rit won't take in nylon unless you boil it in. 

AJ

[yotsuya]

Black QD insulators and PCB feet? That's the highest level of anal-retentiveness I've ever seen on this board. 

[ChanceKJ]

Black QD insulators and PCB feet? That's the highest level of anal-retentiveness I've ever seen on this board. 

Nice!  ...what do I win?

Rit won't take in nylon unless you boil it in. 

AJ

...that would make sense.  I'll try it again when I get home.  Thanks!!

[yotsuya]

Nice!  ...what do I win?

Feel free to dye it black when you get home.




*Note: that's why I like Chance - he can take good-natured ribbing and roll with it.

[ChanceKJ]

...Feel free to dye it black when you get home...

...You'll notice i also reduced it size by 60%. For efficiency sake.





In other news:

BAM!



More on this, (plus a vicious electrocution), later on our show!