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Author Topic: FLYNN'S ARCADE (Project Code Name: Overambitious) - FINISHED  (Read 284665 times)

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Brian74

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #120 on: November 04, 2013, 08:23:42 pm »
When I got my buttons from pa, he didnt have the black centers. So I bought 50 black buttons from x-arcade. Used the extra nuts to keep them from bleeding.

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ChanceKJ

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #121 on: November 04, 2013, 09:22:20 pm »
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.

(Hey! 4 pages, and not a single speck of sawdust action!)
« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 11:24:16 pm by ChanceKJ »

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #122 on: November 04, 2013, 11:21:13 pm »
OK, before i heat up the iron on this and get to the "smoky, smokey, burn, ouch" part.  Would anyone like to check my work?

OLD


New


Old #1 to New #3,#6
Old #2 to New #2
Old #3 to New #5
Old #4 to New #1
Old #5 to New #4


Correct?



ChanceKJ

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #123 on: November 04, 2013, 11:55:07 pm »
Side note: Rit Dye test number two was a failure. Not only did the parts fail to change colour in the boiling water. the bolts embedded in the standoffs expanded in the heat of the boiling water and cracked the plastic. The insulator for the Quick disconnect had no change from the brown cloudy colour it was after the last attempt.

Meh.  :)

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #124 on: November 05, 2013, 12:01:15 am »
Side note: Rit Dye test number two was a failure. Not only did the parts fail to change colour in the boiling water. the bolts embedded in the standoffs expanded in the heat of the boiling water and cracked the plastic. The insulator for the Quick disconnect had no change from the brown cloudy colour it was after the last attempt.

Meh.  :)

***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Brian74

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Re: Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #125 on: November 05, 2013, 03:32:12 am »
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.

(Hey! 4 pages, and not a single speck of sawdust action!)
If I knew how I would :-[

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #126 on: November 05, 2013, 03:40:08 am »
Replace your signature image code with this...

Code: [Select]
[url=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121467.msg1288591.html][img]http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj561/Xx_Brian74_xX/HEXmarqueeCopy.png[/img][/url]

PL1

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #127 on: November 05, 2013, 04:11:00 am »
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.
If I knew how I would :-[

This sounds familiar . . . maybe because of this old PM.  :lol

Brian,

Just noticed that your sig pic isn't linked to your build.

Doing so would allow people to click on the pic to open your build thread.

If you want to add that feature, go into your profile and select Modify Profile - Update Profile.

In the Signature block, add the part in red:

(url=http://build thread here](img]http://Picture link(/img](/url]

Substitute [ for ( and insert link for your build thread.   :cheers:


Scott

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #128 on: November 05, 2013, 04:14:01 am »
See, i was nice and collected all the code he needed...  :P

Scott, any input on the wiring up of that potentiometer?

Brian74

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Re: Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #129 on: November 05, 2013, 04:40:48 am »
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.
If I knew how I would :-[

This sounds familiar . . . maybe because of this old PM.  :lol

Brian,

Just noticed that your sig pic isn't linked to your build.

Doing so would allow people to click on the pic to open your build thread.

If you want to add that feature, go into your profile and select Modify Profile - Update Profile.

In the Signature block, add the part in red:

(url=http://build thread here](img]http://Picture link(/img](/url]

Substitute [ for ( and insert link for your build thread.   :cheers:



Scott

You got me scott! :-[ Dont you people sleep? I already have over 1.5 hrs in at work. As I type and drive my semi lol

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Brian74

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #130 on: November 05, 2013, 04:46:02 am »
I should edit my old thread or start a new one. I have taken out my clear buttons, the lcd and changed my cp. Now I have a vertical 27" crt and all black buttons.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #131 on: November 05, 2013, 05:35:09 am »
Dont you people sleep?
When I'm not looking up old PMs or drawing diagrams.  :P

See, i was nice and collected all the code he needed...  :P
You're a gentleman and a scholar, sir.  :cheers:

Scott, any input on the wiring up of that potentiometer?
Sorry, didn't look too close at that since Neph was helping you with it.

Not sure about the schematic equivalent/pinout of your particular double-gang pot and diagram -- it doesn't quite make sense to me. :dunno

Looking at the pics again it looks like it goes audio source > headphone jack > potentiometer > speakers.
Based on that, the schematic should look something like this.


Scott

EDIT: Forgot to include the ground for the headphone jack.
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 05:50:30 am by PL1 »

thomas_surles

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #132 on: November 05, 2013, 09:07:13 am »
I like the button choice. It makes me regret my boring red happ buttons. :banghead:

Brian74

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #133 on: November 05, 2013, 09:10:44 am »
Its was funny, those buttons showed up on pa after a few of us did them.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #134 on: November 05, 2013, 09:02:36 pm »
Gonne be a busy night for me...

PARTS!

-Marquee and drawer LED lights
-Various quick disconnects,
-Mini DVI to VGA adaptor (which will plug into my SLG when it arrives!)
-PCB standoffs
-couple sizes of heat shrink
-Blue coin door buttons
-3.5mm headphone jacks, Male
-3.5mm chassis mount headphone jack, Female

Not shown:
-Vinyl sticker logos
-Custom coin reject button labels



The Coin Door has arrived!

Complete with US 25 cent mechs, (which will be adjusted to take tokens or replaced with token mechs). Strangely i only received the keys for the top door. I sent Divemaster a PM, hopefully he'll get back to me soon.



I'm gonna be up all night working on this thing getting the logo on, swapping out the reject buttons and running power to the lights.  #win.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #135 on: November 05, 2013, 09:47:44 pm »
Nice. Looks like fun. Shouldn't be hard to mod the mechs to accept tokens.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #136 on: November 05, 2013, 09:57:45 pm »
Awesome. I havent really seen any four slot coin doors before.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #137 on: November 06, 2013, 02:39:26 am »
Adventures with a coin door.

So tonight i went in and replaced all the buttons with the blue ones and added custom reject labels. They match the numbers on the dustwashers so you'll know what one to drop a token into if you suck, (i'll be using a lot of tokens).  I did learn a few things about this experience. First, HAPP is slowly lowering the quality of its parts. Things that i know once were metal are now plastic, like the bezels around the reject button, the coin med brackets, etc. Looks like the stopped using washers around the coin mech brackets to bolt to the door. I found this out the "fun" way when i went to swap out the third button and noticed the bolt holding the bracket had been installed so tight it was sunk into the plastic.  I had to get clever and remove some of the surrounding material so my driver could even get a good grip on the bolt head.  When i reattached it after swapping out the button i used a washer to give it a bit more stability. Interestingly enough the washer came out of an extra IKEA anti-tilt kit i got with my DVD towers.



A couple of other things i noticed with this door. the latch on the lock that holds the upper door needed to be bent into position. the door (when shut and locked) had a decent amount of play in it. That was a simple fix.

I also spent the better part of an hour trying to figure out how to adjust these coin mechs.  As soon as my tokens come in this weekend i'm going to figure out what mech i need and i might just sell/trade these US.25's for the ones i need. that way theres no messing about and the machine just takes tokens. Part of my plan for controlling how much each person gets to play on the machine when we have people over is to use the tokens. could be interesting to see who of my friends/family can get the digests scores on games with say like a limit of 4 tokens. I've been playing around with the idea of a switch inside the door that lets me toggle between the use of the coin buttons on the CP, or the coin door slots. More on this when we get to the point where i need to wire it.



I couldn't stand it just sitting there idle once i had the new buttons installed.  I did realized theres a difference between HAPP reject buttons and IL ones. These blue ones pictured are iL. they are darker, and its almost impossible to see the label inside the button if theres no light behind the button. They just feel cheaper then the HAPP buttons i removed. Maybe the day comes and i feel like ripping this thing apart again and i'll replace them with blue HAPP ones. for now i'll just compensate with some super bright LED's.  Speaking of lights. the door came with some really crappy bulbs. I'm gonna replace them asap. As you can see in the picture i thought i had wired something wrong, but then i started to troubleshot and realized it was the bulbs. I'm considering wrapping white 12v LED's around the button housing and wiring them to the bulb retainers. I'll use the white bulb retainers you see in the picture as a sort of stress relief from the presses of the wire harness and the door opening and shutting. This is on the list of "To Do's".



I nailed the wiring harness first try. Not bad for someone with no experience doing this kinda stuff. I left a nice long lead to the power supply.  Funny story, With all my advance planning i'm doing i've noticed i forget to check some things. like the fact that terminals on the coin microswiches are .250", not the .187" i had assumed. I'll have to go buy some of those tomorrow. I need a 5 circuit connector to do that part anyways. So no big deal.



I've decided what will make this project great in my eyes will be the attention to detail. Matching keychain, custom matching dustwasters, custom coin reject labels, a scanline generator, a real metal serial number plate....   I found a place here in Calgary that actually makes the real deal. No avery labels here.  I really like the idea of using a layer of tinted glass over top of the screen instead of a bezel. Maybe try and give it a clean modern look rather then trying to measure to the 32nd of an inch for a black matte boarder at a frame shop.

I still need help wiring that potentiometer. i just want to make sure i have the right idea before i pull out the solder gun and start making a mess. I'm going to wire myself a custom length stereo audio cable using the 3.5mm jacks and chassis mount jack i bought for the I/O.

As suspected, i found a couple more places with CnC tables in town. I'm getting impatient and want to start butchering the corpses of some trees.   Soon.  If you would have told me 6 weeks ago I would be spending my night wiring a coin door for a home arcade, I would have told you to stop eating paste.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2013, 02:47:01 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #138 on: November 06, 2013, 02:54:14 am »
Oh, side note. the Mini DVI to VGA adaptor is going back.  I bought it today thinking there was a problem with the DisplayPort to VGA adaptor I have. However when i pugged it in the PC input on my TV was still not responding. The other night i almost threw the MacMini through the TV trying to figure it out. I used to work for Apple and i was trying everything i could think of to get the PC input to show a signal on the TV. It was like 3 in the morning and I was about to go ballistic...

...Then today when the new adaptor didn't work either I remembered when I set up this TV a couple weeks ago I locked out all the inputs on the TV in the TV menu that I wasn't planning on using.   :banghead:  #Fail.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2013, 02:56:40 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #139 on: November 06, 2013, 04:11:32 am »
Couldn't sleep. Wired up (and tested) the 3.5mm extension for the CP front I/O to the logitech control box.  Once i figure out that potentiometer i'll test the speakers. Not the best i've done, but it works.



 :D

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #140 on: November 06, 2013, 10:02:26 am »
All people are going to care about in the end, bro, is if it can play Galaga.  :cheers:










Good job so far. I like the wiring on the coin lights.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #141 on: November 06, 2013, 10:42:53 am »
Haha, yes, but I'll know. And that's important to me.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #142 on: November 06, 2013, 10:55:44 am »
I've been playing with potentiometers with my Jukebox, trying to find the right one. I've used a 100k and a 500k, but still am not 100% happy with the volume adjustment. I have a 10k one that should be here today or tomorrow, and I'll try that.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #143 on: November 06, 2013, 03:01:58 pm »
I've been playing with potentiometers with my Jukebox, trying to find the right one. I've used a 100k and a 500k, but still am not 100% happy with the volume adjustment. I have a 10k one that should be here today or tomorrow, and I'll try that.

Don't forget that for audio control you need a logarithmic potentiometer.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #144 on: November 06, 2013, 03:50:54 pm »
I've been playing with potentiometers with my Jukebox, trying to find the right one. I've used a 100k and a 500k, but still am not 100% happy with the volume adjustment. I have a 10k one that should be here today or tomorrow, and I'll try that.

Don't forget that for audio control you need a logarithmic potentiometer.

Trust me, I know that. I'm just trying to find the one that I think works best. Maybe I need to invest in wooden knobs.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #145 on: November 07, 2013, 12:56:13 am »
Well, i think i'm about done with the Rit dye...









...Whatever. I DGAF, the hub looks cooler without the enclosure. And now i have something to use with the extra PCB foot that survived the first round of tests...

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #146 on: November 07, 2013, 01:06:46 pm »
Dude, hammered black.  The only way to go.  Right Maximus?  :P







Seriously, though.  Just get a primer for plastic paint and any latex enamel spray and yer good to go.

AJ

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #147 on: November 07, 2013, 11:24:26 pm »
More parts... well sort of.

Got short changed on my Molex parts and only a quarter of my shipment arrived, (Stupid CBSA).  I've initiated a backup plan.  Doesn't matter anyways because my wire stripper doesn't go down to 24 gauge, and my new fancy wire stripper hasn't come in from Hong Kong yet...



Went to Rona and priced out some plywood! Yes, you read that right. 4 pages in and i'm starting to talk about making some sawdust. no, it's not a joke. found a hot glue gun for under $3! some aluminium duct tape, my grills for the ventilation and a nifty 3AAA/4LED light stick thingy that will come in handy.   OH! and some .250 QD's... stupid coin door.



Well, since i can't wire the plugs to these button LED modules yet, i might as well get to things i can do.  I'm not happy with the little 161 bulbs that light the coin door buttons. They suck. We'll leave it at that.  I've been playing around with a number of ideas and i think i've found the best way to light these buttons. Being that they're blue, they are dark as all hell and very hard to read the custom matching labels i made for them. I experimented printing the labels on 3 types of paper and overhead transparency sheets. The light travels through the transparency labels quite well, but when the light is off you can't see the labels at all inside the button because it blends in.

My solution is simple. I've covered 4 of the inside sides of the button with the metallic duct tape, and i'm going to mount 1 watt white LED packs to the sides of the buttons. I'll use the existing 161 coin door automotive bulb sockets as a stress relief from the wire harness so it all holds up to many openings/closings of the coin door.  It sucks that i have to pull out these buttons again. But theme the brakes. It will give me a chance to modify the coin door screws a bit so if i pull it apart again it will be a bit more easy.





I'm also going to wire the coin microswitches tonight.  Whatever moron at HAPP said "Hey, lets use .250 switches on these just to f### with people!"  should be hit with a truck.



My desk in my office is getting so crowded that i've had to add another table to the left of the desk as a wire station.


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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #148 on: November 08, 2013, 03:19:49 am »
Decided if i was gonna pull the coin door apart i'd better fix the crappy attach job HAPP does with their bolts. I raided the washers from the remaining IKEA anti-tip kits i had laying around. These washers are strong and extra thin. Just perfect!



Once i got the buttons out i laced the inside of them with the metal tape. A test shows a decent increase in brightness when lit. Well worth the effort if you have blue buttons!



I don't know what the official name for this tool is, but ---gosh-darn--- it's been helpful setting screws. I'd have to say in the 15 years i've had this crappy RadioShack tool kit, this tool alone has made it worth every penny i paid for the kit!



Thought i'd swap the philips head screws on one side of the bracket with the bolt screws on the other. didn't think that one might be longer and I accidentally ran a hole through the front of the door.  Oops..  Oh well. I wish these were the old metal ones.



This little Sylvania "LED flute" was worth the $15!  i was just gonna gut it for parts, but man, it's so handy. that base is also magnetic! I think it will live attached to the back of the cash door.



I am gonna be a pro-star at crimping D-Sub pins when this is all over.

the coin door is wired and was tested with the multimeter. Passed with flying colours! I'll hook these up to the coin buttons and have the option of hitting the button on the CP or dropping in a token. With the exception of the mini connector for the coin lines, a new set of LED bulbs, and adjusting/swapping the coin mechs so it can take tokens, we're good to go!


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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #149 on: November 08, 2013, 08:50:59 am »
Your workroom is far too clean.   :lol

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #150 on: November 08, 2013, 10:21:53 am »
+1.  And no bikes, skateboards, foamy pool thingies and countless wreathes.  :banghead:

AJ

Your workroom is far too clean.   :lol

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #151 on: November 09, 2013, 03:36:08 am »
Not a big update, but an update none the less...

Wired the pot tonight. Tested, works quite nice.



started work on the Molex connectors for the RGB LED Packs. So far i'm 10 buttons in and i've found one LED pack has no working green.  I'll send Paradise an email after i check the rest.  Good thing i bought a couple extra modules just in case!

crimping these connections is tedious!



saw the BEST Movember hat at my buddy's place today.


Nephasth

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #152 on: November 09, 2013, 12:15:16 pm »
( still keeping the theme under wraps :) )

Fantastic 4 by chance?

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #153 on: November 09, 2013, 12:46:27 pm »
( still keeping the theme under wraps :) )

Fantastic 4 by chance?

Maybe if the last two movies didn't leave such a bad taste in my mouth about the Fantastic 4 as a whole.  Funny, when I was making those labels and dustwashers I had that logo in mind. Mainly to avoid looking too much like it.


The theme I've chosen is pretty cool. It's been done before (kinda). But I think know I can do better, especially with the contact I made to help with the art :D
« Last Edit: November 09, 2013, 12:49:27 pm by ChanceKJ »

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #154 on: November 11, 2013, 03:01:22 am »
My themed tokens were delivered to me today  ;D

I only bought 25, but I think I'll pick up 50 more

How do i measure them to verify the size?
« Last Edit: November 11, 2013, 03:29:33 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #155 on: November 11, 2013, 04:23:53 am »
How do i measure them to verify the size?
Dial calipers.

Scott
« Last Edit: November 11, 2013, 04:26:29 am by PL1 »

Nephasth

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #156 on: November 11, 2013, 09:28:16 am »
How do i measure them to verify the size?
Dial calipers.

Scott

Make sure to read the RCH scale.

ChanceKJ

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #157 on: November 11, 2013, 08:21:32 pm »
Coin mechs modified to accept the .984 tokens!

...no pictures. just a simple twist of a screwdriver and now i don't have to buy new mechs.  ;D


Oh, and i picked up a digital calliper too. figured it would be nice to have one around the house.

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #158 on: November 11, 2013, 09:05:03 pm »

ChanceKJ

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Re: Project Code Name: Overambitious
« Reply #159 on: November 11, 2013, 09:16:41 pm »
There are some cool tokens here. Probably the cheapest around.
http://www.arcadereplay.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=34&osCsid=8418f5b8efc40079486b720b6ef2b962

Yeah I saw those.  Pretty cool, but the ones I have match the theme of my cab.