Design steps:
1. Spousal approval (CHECK!)
Doodles
Doodles
If you keep up with the doodles as plans, then you are certainly well on your way! I'm excited to be watching this build.
<AJ>Subscribed.</AJ>
Rick
That CP shape is known affectionately in some circles as 'The Aircraft Carrier'.
-IL Concave RGB/LED buttons (black tops, lit rings) (As seen on the Two-Headed Beast)
-Molex QD on all LED harnesses (Also thanks to Nephasth (you bastard, thanks for the expensive ideas... ;) )
Hopefully you can come up with a good sideart theme so you don't leave a barren Black Mountain Side on your cab.
For the light in the drawer, consider using a roller microswitch (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049719) that engages with the back right or back left side.
P.S. For those wondering about the content of this post :dizzy:, click here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Led_Zeppelin_%28album%29#Track_listing).
Spousal approval...Pure gold! By the way...No cupholders? I KID! I kid! :lolIt had crossed my mind a few times. i just keep thinking back to all those cases of liquid damage i dealt with at Apple. Tragic stuff...
I'm trying to figure out what Scott does for a living.
That CP shape is known affectionately in some circles as 'The Aircraft Carrier'.
Glad the Beast can still be a source of inspiration! I can help you out with lowering the cost on the Molex parts. PM coming your way. :cheers:
Now, ethical question: Looking at all these nice bartops that are being CnC'd is it a sin if i forgo most of the standard fabrication of the cab and have the technical bits plotted out on a local woodworkers CnC?
That's a lot of buttons.
You might want to check with HaRuMaN on that aircraft carrier. I think he might be able to help.Yeah, I saw that in another thread. I have a few things I need to talk to him about if this quote for CnC pans out...
That's a lot of buttons.
I've just found that more buttons leads to more confusion - the less clutter on a CP the more people seem to enjoy it. My first cabinet tried to "do everything" and it led to 500 questions every time I had people over to play. My DK gets played a ton more and no one really ever asks me how it works other than how to switch games. Of course, it only has a 4-way and one action button so it's not that tough to figure out but still. The DK has about 30 games and the other cab had about 300 so you would think that the cab with more games would be played more but it just didn't (so I got rid of it). I don't know - there's no right answer but I was just sharing my own experience.
Naw, I don't have that door.
No problem. I'm still working on that other thing we discussed.
This can only end in tears.
Before you spend too much on that translucent t-molding, let me just state that previous posters have proven over the years that it probably won't do what you think it will do. Maybe you can figure something out, but it doesn't work with light the way you think it will.
Why did I just buy a foot of 1-1/2" clear acrylic pipe....
The translucent one gives me an idea though
From where can/does one request/order t-molding samples?Tmoulding.com
Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!
The button layout is a bit extreme and as non-traditional as can be.
:applaud:
:applaud:
Some damn fine work you did there Lee.
Time to make that dream a reality. Make some sawdust... Excited to see some build in this build thread!
Time to make that dream a reality. Make some sawdust... Excited to see some build in this build thread!
Agreed, but I'm patient. I've got a knack for pre planning. Besides I've been waiting on the completion of the CAD for the Cab. Now that that's done I can make a move on the wood bits :)
Proper preparation is the greatest contributing factor to success of ones goals.
Your reply is far too logical. :P Just getting excited for you and the build to see it come together.
I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's. Anyone else do that with theirs?
I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's. Anyone else do that with theirs?
Stiff springs are a must for the U360s IMO.
Just a thought on my joystick light design, Dust washer, is it really a big problem if I skip them? Or should I add a couple washers around the bolts of the mounting plates to get clearance to put them under the CP and glue my acrylic inserts in place? (well I was gonna glue them anyways)
Looking at that volume pot, and following the traces, I'm assuming it's a dual gang pot. Meaning it's two pots in one. One for the headphones, and one for the speakers. I'm assuming it's using a shared ground between both.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299034)
Based on your ohm readings, you'll probably want to find a dual gang 50K ohm pot with an audio taper. And when you go to connect the new pot, connect its ground pins from both gangs together (since your new pot will likely have 6 pins).
Second would be about the clear dust washers and your artwork. How are you planning on building your CP? Most I've seen that use artwork have it underneath a layer of plexiglass. Shouldn't have to worry about the artwork getting scratched then.
This is aimed more at Nephasth but from my understanding of dual gang pots is that they are for stereo output. One side controls the left channel, one controls the right. I don't remember exactly how my setup was but I'm guessing it goes something like: audio source (ie sound card) > potentiometer > headphone jack > output (speakers). That way the one dual gang pot would be controlling both channels for both the headphones and speakers. Now if it was a mono signal you may be right.
On this side of the pond, you can get clear JLF washers here (http://www.canadianjoysticks.com/sanwa-denshi-jlf-cd-c-clear-shaft-guard-and-dust-cover/) or here (http://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-cd-clear-shaft-matching-dustwasher-set/).
Just tuned in on this 1. Go man, go! :cheers:
If you want etched dust washers, just go to a local trophy shop. They should have a laser engraver that can do any design you can think of. And they should have different thicknesses of acrylic on hand.
You may want to allow for the fact that the washer will turn easily.
Consider moving the logo to the 6 o'clock position and rotating it 90 degrees each step as you add three more logos at 9, 12 and 3 -- whichever way it turns the logo closest to you is always upright.
Alternate version, move the logo to the 12 o'clock and repeat the process -- logo on the side of the washer away from you is always upright.
Scott
...That's a very unique button layout, as well. I just can't wrap my head around how/what you would be playing with that :lol
:cheers:
(http://www.historyinanhour.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Hindenburg-disaster.jpg)
Ok, proper update time.
... quote shortened per request ... saint
OOoooo, Updates!
... quote shortened per request ... saint
And i know what you're all saying: "This build sucks! Where's the sawdust!" Well, to that i say "SHUDAP!" i'm getting there.
That's what I'm going to tell them. It was funny how excited I was right up until the second the PDF loaded on my iPad, and then boom, :dunno I've put out a couple calls for a backup. We'll see where this goes.
Cannot wait to see this CP come together. Awesome work!...
...You still using two PacLED64 to control everything correct? I'll be in the corner taking notes ;)
Tuck your PCB feet under your boards like this I-PAC. I angled the feet towards the center of the board.
Black QD insulators and PCB feet? That's the highest level of anal-retentiveness I've ever seen on this board. :cheers:
Rit won't take in nylon unless you boil it in.
AJ
Nice! ...what do I win?
...Feel free to dye it black when you get home...
Side note: Rit Dye test number two was a failure. Not only did the parts fail to change colour in the boiling water. the bolts embedded in the standoffs expanded in the heat of the boiling water and cracked the plastic. The insulator for the Quick disconnect had no change from the brown cloudy colour it was after the last attempt.
Meh. :)
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.If I knew how I would :-[
(Hey! 4 pages, and not a single speck of sawdust action!)
[url=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121467.msg1288591.html][img]http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj561/Xx_Brian74_xX/HEXmarqueeCopy.png[/img][/url]
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.If I knew how I would :-[
Brian,
Just noticed that your sig pic isn't linked to your build.
Doing so would allow people to click on the pic to open your build thread.
If you want to add that feature, go into your profile and select Modify Profile - Update Profile.
In the Signature block, add the part in red:
(url=http://build thread here](img]http://Picture link(/img](/url]
Substitute [ for ( and insert link for your build thread. :cheers:
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.If I knew how I would :-[
This sounds familiar . . . maybe because of this old PM. :lolBrian,
Just noticed that your sig pic isn't linked to your build.
Doing so would allow people to click on the pic to open your build thread.
If you want to add that feature, go into your profile and select Modify Profile - Update Profile.
In the Signature block, add the part in red:
(url=http://build thread here](img]http://Picture link(/img](/url]
Substitute [ for ( and insert link for your build thread. :cheers:
Scott
Dont you people sleep?When I'm not looking up old PMs or drawing diagrams. :P
See, i was nice and collected all the code he needed... :PYou're a gentleman and a scholar, sir. :cheers:
Scott, any input on the wiring up of that potentiometer?Sorry, didn't look too close at that since Neph was helping you with it.
Looking at the pics again it looks like it goes audio source > headphone jack > potentiometer > speakers.Based on that, the schematic should look something like this.
I've been playing with potentiometers with my Jukebox, trying to find the right one. I've used a 100k and a 500k, but still am not 100% happy with the volume adjustment. I have a 10k one that should be here today or tomorrow, and I'll try that.
I've been playing with potentiometers with my Jukebox, trying to find the right one. I've used a 100k and a 500k, but still am not 100% happy with the volume adjustment. I have a 10k one that should be here today or tomorrow, and I'll try that.
Don't forget that for audio control you need a logarithmic potentiometer.
Your workroom is far too clean. :lol
( still keeping the theme under wraps :) )
( still keeping the theme under wraps :) )
Fantastic 4 by chance?
How do i measure them to verify the size?Dial calipers.
How do i measure them to verify the size?Dial calipers.
(http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00fBbtRGPqulcU/Dial-Calipers.jpg)
Scott
There are some cool tokens here. Probably the cheapest around.
http://www.arcadereplay.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=34&osCsid=8418f5b8efc40079486b720b6ef2b962 (http://www.arcadereplay.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=34&osCsid=8418f5b8efc40079486b720b6ef2b962)
Chuck E. Cheese theme? >:D
I bet you picked up 25 Flynn's Arcade tokens off eBay. I've done the same. They're awesome.
Small Update: F**K HyperSpin!
I'm done trying to work with it. I've fought and stressed over that piece of donkey crap for weeks now. MaLa took 5 minutes to setup and WORKS. It doesn't send me a patronizing sound effect every time a fuc*ing error shows up.
So yeah, there's that. I wanna thank those of you watching this thread that have tried to help me and give me advice with HyperSh*t. 20 Minutes tonight with MaLa and I'm hooked. Now i just gotta spend some time getting the whole thing customized for my liking and setup to match the theme of the cab.
I feel a million times better.
Oh and does anyone have a link to the "controls.ini" file? the link in the wiki is broken. (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Mala_Setup)
I offered in your other thread to help walk you through the setup process. Never heard back...
I offered in your other thread to help walk you through the setup process. Never heard back...
Yes! Thank you for that. I think late last night it just came to a point where I didn't even care about it any longer. I was gonna take one more crack at it myself and then let you know. But after a couple botched attempts I just said screw it. I tell you it's the damn sound effects that go off with error messages.
Oh well.
I might definitely do that.
The video tutorials and step by steps online today are brutal. I even found a step by step on the HS forums and the guy writing it must have lost interest near the end. It became less particular to detail and just abruptly ended. Maybe when you write it use colours or bold/italic text to define file paths and folder names.
Yeah, see that just doesn't sound like fun. It drains the awesomeness out of the hobby.
Ok well, here's the litmus test. You write one, if I can follow it and make things work then you've succeeded.
Small Update: F**K HyperSpin!
I'm done trying to work with it. I've fought and stressed over that piece of donkey crap for weeks now. MaLa took 5 minutes to setup and WORKS. It doesn't send me a patronizing sound effect every time a fuc*ing error shows up.
So yeah, there's that. I wanna thank those of you watching this thread that have tried to help me and give me advice with HyperSh*t. 20 Minutes tonight with MaLa and I'm hooked. Now i just gotta spend some time getting the whole thing customized for my liking and setup to match the theme of the cab.
I feel a million times better.
Oh and does anyone have a link to the "controls.ini" file? the link in the wiki is broken. (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Mala_Setup)
controls.ini
http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/controls/controls_dat.php (http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/controls/controls_dat.php)
It hasn't been updated since v.141
I have access to a pretty bad ass embroidery machine,
Oooo, oooo, let me b the 1st--SWEEETT!! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Where can I find those magnet mounts?!?
See folks, I'm not just a pretty face.
Last night I priced out what this has cost so far and what I still have left to go. All I can say to people looking to build something similar: Don't. Run, just run. Take up building sand castles, or something.
I mean, at least it will be bad ass when it's done. Right?
/grumble.
Where were you with that advice YESTERDAY!
Useless.
Haha.
No, hence all the preplaning. It will be right, and done the first time.
No, hence all the preplaning. It will be right, and done the first time.
Small update because it's really late and i'm tired. I've been working on the side art for the last 5 hours and i hate computers right now...Have a link for those disconnects?
Keychain came in the mail today. Amazing quality, and i'm very happy with it, Jon does good work. Be sure to check out his thread Here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,97793.0/all.html)
My quick disconnects came in from Hong Kong. I now figure I need about 80, but because I suck at math I ordered 300.
They were dirt cheap, and not bright red, so that makes me happy. The extra will come in handy and maybe i'll use the same ones on my next build.
...Wait, i'm using bright red for my next build... Meh.
Also, i had the outline for my CP printed so i could get an idea of scale. This thing is big...
Also, If anyone cares i've been blogging this build on Instagram under the Hashtag #ChancesArcade. Tons more pictures and craziness.
Have a link for those disconnects?
Have a link for those disconnects?
Keep in mind that the Japanese buttons use smaller terminals (.110") if you're using those.
Not sure if you can tell but the Arcade(MAME) one has a small homage to a very popular BYOAC Cab that may have won 2012 cab of the year.....
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/11112876846_a5e13b5ce3_b.jpg)
Keep in mind that the Japanese buttons use smaller terminals (.110") if you're using those.
Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!
Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!
Works quite well thank you... ;D ;D
Hammered black FTW! Right, Maximus?
Hammered black FTW! Right, Maximus?
...you're going to have to enlighten me on this one.
I love the theme and artwork, keep up the great work!
WOOOOO!!
T-Moulding order came in. (is it weird that i had another "this is so happening now" moment when i opened this box?)
Thats it for now.
Thanks. If I lose any then I'll lose the ability to count to ten without taking off my socks.
I've also heard/seen people put the bit on backwards. I'll keep an eye out for that.
I've noticed that the crimp section of these QD's is HUGE. must be meant for a larger gauge wire. I still need to find a proper crimper for these. I can't seem to get my hands on one at my local shops. Any ideas?
Made sure to test the wiring as i went.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/11883314776_4bd93345f7_c.jpg)
Small update:I've been busy and sitting on my @$$ with this.
I figure now i'm going to miss my mid-Feb Deadline. Oh well. We'll get there folks...
Finished the vector art for the I/O panels.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3681/12009359174_a7564dc0fc_c.jpg)
I've noticed that the crimp section of these QD's is HUGE. must be meant for a larger gauge wire. I still need to find a proper crimper for these. I can't seem to get my hands on one at my local shops. Any ideas?
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/12009035525_d2cc0a65d5_c.jpg)
This is probably blasphemy here, but I use my wire cutter to crimp that kind of QD, it's much easier to work with IMHO than my heavy duty crimping tool. :cheers:I've done a couple tests with that, but they come out looking like crap, and not professional at all. I had experimented with cutting down the tangs at the end so it fit a smaller wire. It will be extra work, but might be worth it.
That looks fantastic! Nice work. :cheers:Thanks! I'm excited to see what its going to look like with the real laser cut panel. You guys are all gonna give me hell when this ends up on the back side of the CP overhang and is somewhat out of sight. :D
Uh yeah, Solder.......the take needle nose pliers and fold over the holders, if your good at it you can round off the crimp, its not pretty but it holds good, the plastic will cover up the mess anyhow. Bottom line is you will have a good connection.
Theres a youtube video of a guy using needle nose for these crimps looks pretty darn good....
SNAP! Poke at coreybee for the avery labels on pop cans. *BUT* I can speak for the quality of Cory's pop-can labels. They're actually pretty cool!
AJ
Not bad for $28!
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/11883531156_409d22e037_c.jpg)
Chance - Where did you pick up your 4 pin molex connector that is on the top left of this picture? Hoping to get one in a kit so I can put it together instead of hacking a pre made one. Been looking for one for my coin door. Thanks in advance.
Not bad for $28!
For about that, you could have got yourself a pair of ratcheting crimpers (http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1391004248&sr=8-5&keywords=tool+aid+crimper).
For about that, you could have got yourself a pair of ratcheting crimpers (http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1391004248&sr=8-5&keywords=tool+aid+crimper).
How are you crimping your micro-fit terminal pins?
Waiting for the eventual Project Code Name: SitMyAssDown thread. :cheers:
My brother is also doing a Flynn's theme on his cab. I thought I might share this with you if you are interested at all. I recreated this for his cab using GIMP
Yes, the knob actually goes to 11! ;D
One of the first things I did today when I came home from the office was to install the buttons and connections on these they look quite nice. I'm quite happy with the way theses came out.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5109/14004050345_ae5bbeb1c8_c.jpg)
Yes, the knob actually goes to 11! ;D
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Transducers are probably better suited for small bartops. With a cab, you want to turn that mother out.
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Transducers are probably better suited for small bartops. With a cab, you want to turn that mother out.Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Yep! The transducer is for my PacMan build.
I just recently caught the tutorial on the Griffin PowerMate mod, might have to mod one of those and adjust my plans for the front I/O.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/11883314776_4bd93345f7_c.jpg)
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Transducers are probably better suited for small bartops. With a cab, you want to turn that mother out.Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Yep! The transducer is for my PacMan build.
I just recently caught the tutorial on the Griffin PowerMate mod, might have to mod one of those and adjust my plans for the front I/O.
An aliexpress.com vendor. Search for "Vandal Switch". There are MILLIONS of variations. I picked those ones out based on my needs. These were latching/momentary, 12v, blue LED, 25mm, black, single/dual polarity. The options are endless.
Ebay has them too.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2908/14179024860_0f52449831_c.jpg)
There was a guy where I live and I saw he had 2 arcade machines in the back of his truck. He didn't seem like the restorer type, but I waited several days and asked him about them. Apparently he was moving into a building and it had around 75 arcade games sitting all dusty in storage. You name it, it was probably there. He didn't know if they worked or not. He was giving them away, I about fainted. but then he said he promised them to a guy about an hour away. He said if I would have come a day or so earlier he would have gave them to me.I even offered to buy them but he said he promised them to the guy and he wasn't going to back out. What a shame, but I did avoid a divorce by not bringing them home.
Jay
What a shame, but I did avoid aFIXTdivorcecomplete arcade by not bringing them home.
Jay
First the hidden access door on the front. Nothing crazy, just mounted the hinges.
Nope. Although the tray would be a more elegant solution over the silly and awkward drawers that people put under the CP. For the future if I plan on putting light guns on the cab I'll hide them in here with cable retractors.
Nope. Although the tray would be a more elegant solution over the silly and awkward drawers that people put under the CP. For the future if I plan on putting light guns on the cab I'll hide them in here with cable retractors.A drawer is just an elegant tray >:D
Also, I needed to move and reinforce the USB cable from the top to the back of the PowerMate PCB. Unless you have experience with soldering wires 30 AWG and smaller, don't do this. Just don't. Save your sanity.
Not looking forward to re-soldering it. :banghead:
May i ask Chance is this a permanent spray booth or is it just for this cab? i wondered because there are easier and cheaper ways of spray painting without a spray booth. Aren't you going to have full vinyl on the side anyway?
The cab is coming along nicely. I may have to borrow your speaker panel and marquee design. I've been running (mental) circles trying to figure out those two things. It seems as though our builds are very similar. Yours is cleaner. I debated using plywood vs mdf. Cheers.
About how much did that birch run you per board if you don't mind me asking?
Keep it up man. Looking great! :afro:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14425616404_c41cd48447_c.jpg)
Woooo! :applaud:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14425616404_c41cd48447_c.jpg)
Woooo! :applaud:
I love the kickstand on the back. Is that a Canadian thing? >:D
Oh hey look!.... An update. ;D
My plan of attack is simple. Finish the wood, then use Rust-oleum painters touch. One or two base coats, depending on coverage. Then two to three coats of black on any of the external panels, and then a coat of satin varnish. Proper sanding between coats. Any of the internal sections will get a simple base coat of primer and a single coat of black, simple.
Are you gonna paint that big ass cabinet with 3 cans of paint? You better get about 15.
I also plan on leaving the t-moulding slots bare. So I split some masking tape and covered the slots along the side panels and cp edge. You have no idea how hard it is to find ½" masking tape. The ¾" stuff had to do. And it worked well. There's no real reason for painting the sides other than I want a nice black edge just in case I don't get good coverage with the molding and the side art.
Not a bad idea I didn't do that and I about never got the T molding in
I pretty much left it at that for the night. My next step will be to sand and prep all the surfaces. I picked up a new 5" orbital sander and some discs to help with the job. I wanted to get an idea of coverage a couple weeks ago so I slowly painted a test piece. I was quite happy with the finish and can't wait to do the whole cab.
I use this sander a lot http://www.target.com/p/black-decker-mouse-detail-sander-with-dust-colts/-/A-12445486?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=google_pla_df&LNM=12445486&CPNG=Unassigned&kpid=12445486&LID=13pgs&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=12445486&gclid=CN6ozZLYjb8CFbRj7AodZUAA3w (http://www.target.com/p/black-decker-mouse-detail-sander-with-dust-colts/-/A-12445486?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=google_pla_df&LNM=12445486&CPNG=Unassigned&kpid=12445486&LID=13pgs&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=12445486&gclid=CN6ozZLYjb8CFbRj7AodZUAA3w) it is good for getting back into tight spots
I also plan on leaving the t-moulding slots bare. So I split some masking tape and covered the slots along the side panels and cp edge. You have no idea how hard it is to find ½" masking tape. The ¾" stuff had to do. And it worked well. There's no real reason for painting the sides other than I want a nice black edge just in case I don't get good coverage with the molding and the side art.
I hate it when I squander my pole...
I hate it when I squander my pole...
You been sleeping on the couch again? >:D
YEAH paint!!! your in the home stretch Chance.Thanks, but not even close. I'm highly detail orientated remember. :)
Just played catch up with this thread, making great leaps in the progress! I love the barstool, really takes it over the top. :applaud:
I nee to make me a paint booth like that for my garage.
Go Massa/Bottas/Williams!
They squandered their pole, but great finish for them.
Also, Nico rocks!
AJ
I hate it when I squander my pole...
What does all this talk have to do with the kickstand on the back of this cabinet? >:D
Everything. It has everything to do with the kickstand on the back of this cabinet.
I really want to see Massa back. Taking that spring to the forehead at ~178mph was almost his death. Then to have Ferrari baste him with team orders, let Alonso take point after point after clearly being slower, then let him go....I want to see him put his foot right up Stefano's ass for that this year.
...I tell you the next cab I build I am going to get a HVLP gun. I could have bought 20 of them in the amount of spray paint cans I've bought...
...I tell you the next cab I build I am going to get a HVLP gun. I could have bought 20 of them in the amount of spray paint cans I've bought...
I had the same thought pass through my head holding a full basket of cans, staring at the wall of sprayers. Meh. Yeah, next time.
I find the mask helps offset the dizzy buzz you get when you mix paint fumes and a couple drinks. I need the few brain cells I have left from all the years of getting shot in the head on the Paintball field.
...oh. Added points for the Strange Brew reference. :D
90% of what I know about your people I learned from that movie.
Damnation Chance throw some paint on that thing. You build arcades like old people screw**** SLOW AND SLOPPY. Get u a 12 pack of brew with a little paint high stay up all night and get that thing painted. Those runs will sand out. No I'm just kidding It's gonna be awesome.
Jay
Crazy Cannuck.. you can't build a Tron cabinet.. that is American.. Now go change your theme to Bob and Doug Mackenzie, or Red Green. ;).
Now go change your theme to Bob and Doug Mackenzie, or Red Green. ;).Gotta admit that a Red Green cab with duct tape sideart and/or t-molding would be pretty funny. :duckhunt
Wouldn't mind replacing that trackball with something a little less "white".You might consider getting a clear translucent ball instead.
Crazy Cannuck.. you can't build a Tron cabinet.. that is American.. Now go change your theme to Bob and Doug Mackenzie, or Red Green. ;).
Only 25% of the judges on America's Got Talent are even American. Your argument is invalid.
Someone needs to find an old Atari cab and build a "Galactic Border Patrol".
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/14355148520_9e9a5807eb_c.jpg)
You might consider getting a clear translucent ball instead...
Good call! Acrylic contact juggling balls. I've found a few 3" ones from around $16-$22. Should be exactly what I need. Thanks! :)
Glad I could pay ya back on the help. :)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3854/14551966732_b908165028_c.jpg)
Ohhhh... Are those Screw inserts for the joysticks!!!! That is a great idea! I REALLY did not want to drill thru the top to mount them.You did read about them in this part (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) of the FAQ, right? ;D
Ohhhh... Are those Screw inserts for the joysticks!!!! That is a great idea! I REALLY did not want to drill thru the top to mount them.You did read about them in this part (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) of the FAQ, right? ;D
There's also a picture of the type of threaded insert to avoid for MDF -- very useful if you're not getting them from GGG or Ultimarc.
Scott
Love it. :applaud:
Yup, the FAQ had some good advice on the inserts. Those inserts you shouldn't use are for use with hard woods and have a fine thread to them. It is important to note because if you tried to screw in the course threaded ones into a hardwood you would probably break threads off and would likely warp or collapse the insert. I bought mine from GGG because the price was far better than Ultimarc. I also bought some from Lowe's and I made sure that they were the courser thread for use with MDF. They worked perfectly for mounting my screen to the bezel although they had the slot for installing with a flat blade screwdriver instead of the hex for using an allen key to install. The FAQ shows a slotted, fine thread insert, and I wanted to point out that the threads are the reason not to use in MDF not the slot.Ohhhh... Are those Screw inserts for the joysticks!!!! That is a great idea! I REALLY did not want to drill thru the top to mount them.You did read about them in this part (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) of the FAQ, right? ;D
There's also a picture of the type of threaded insert to avoid for MDF -- very useful if you're not getting them from GGG or Ultimarc.
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Looking forward to the finished art!
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Looking forward to the finished art!
Why do i get the feeling i'll be jugged (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Jugged) on it ;D
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Looking forward to the finished art!
Why do i get the feeling i'll be jugged on it ;D
Hey btw where did you get those molex plugs?
Are you jugging on me because have a short shaft joystick?
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/14583668435_e9fa18a209_c.jpg)
Idea stolen. :blank:
........
That's a lot of money.
Next time I'm not going to spray the cab... many cans died for this finish. Meh. :dunno
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14570330866_1c6105a084_c.jpg)
...Check them twice before mounting though!...
The idea is simple, mount the brackets, then mount the speakers to the brackets. :D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14544815809_b3320b29eb_c.jpg)
The results speak for themselves!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14737338945_a91e0b73ba_c.jpg)
The clear ball lights really well, and just looks sick when sitting next to these buttons.
The difference here is that this is acrylic, which isn't as durable as the clear polycarbonate ball you would get from happs. Acrylic is softer and scratches alot easier than polycarb, so a few months of use and this acrylic ball will get scuffed up pretty bad. However, this is the reason the same site has polishing kits to remove minor acrylic scuffs.
So yes its good for initial eye candy but will show more wear and tear, hence the cheaper price. The polycarbonate is also heavier ball, so a purist will see the difference in the roll, although it works you will get some slips using the clear ball.
The difference here is that this is acrylic, which isn't as durable as the clear polycarbonate ball you would get from happs. Acrylic is softer and scratches alot easier than polycarb, so a few months of use and this acrylic ball will get scuffed up pretty bad. However, this is the reason the same site has polishing kits to remove minor acrylic scuffs.
So yes its good for initial eye candy but will show more wear and tear, hence the cheaper price. The polycarbonate is also heavier ball, so a purist will see the difference in the roll, although it works you will get some slips using the clear ball.
I think you may have your materials mixed up. Polycarbonate is way softer and scratches easier than acrylic. It is more impact resistant though.
I use foam tape weather stripping...for all my light bleeds, just place a strip on the cab behing the marquee and done.
I would recommend, spending and extra $20.00 and getting the real thing from divemaster to complete the quality aspect of the build, less scratches and the proper weight....
Speaking of the control panel, the good folks over at jugglegear.com (http://www.jugglegear.com) sold me a clear Contact Juggling ball that is the exact same size and weight as the stock U-Trak ball. the best part it was under $20. These guys were awesome. Coming from a background of big box retail and eCommerce Marketing i can definitely say that Peter and his wife are legit! If you need a cool trackball they have a bunch of cool of options like UV responsive, clear, and even steel. VERY happy with both their service and this purchase.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2932/14550657440_41689855b2_c.jpg)
The results speak for themselves!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14737338945_a91e0b73ba_c.jpg)
The clear ball lights really well, and just looks sick when sitting next to these buttons.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14757186373_a828ed796b_c.jpg)
You're gonna hate me for saying this. But I think it looks quite messy.
Stop. You're gonna make a girl blush.
Not sure what you mean, I don't see it. Might be the light being bent by the gravitational force of my tubby dog... :D
...you know Rick, my new place has a massive garage. And once spring comes and the snow melts we'll pull the cars out and I'll have some shop space. Might want to think about how we could get a full size Nintendo cab cut and sent to Calgary. That or I let you in on my other project i wanna do, I might need some C&C work done over the winter.
Holy crap... I just noticed this thread now has over 30k views... 20,000 of them are probably me, haha, :D
Holy crap... I just noticed this thread now has over 30k views... 20,000 of them are probably me, haha, :D
Probably more like 25,000. >:D
Inside looks clean, good job.
:laugh: "too nice"?
An electrician buddy of mine gave it a 7.5/10. It's almost inspired me to rip it all out and start again. :laugh:
I really wasn't happy with the stock Ultimarc trackball LED kit. SO i decided to make my own. For starters, now that i have a clear trackball the light from the LEDs just shoots right through to the ceiling and its blindingly bright compared to all the other controls. I propped open the control panel and removed the LED kit. Just to give you an idea of how easy light shines through, you can see the display from the screen projected through the bottom of the trackball into the ball. it's so cool, like a mini hologram.
Here's my solution, one the the same Paradise Arcade LED's that i'm using to light my joysticks, mounted to a small piece of plexi left over from my marquee. I added a layer of translucent plastic to help defuse the light a bit more, then wrapped it all nicely with some high quality electrical tape. Then i drilled a small hole and mounted it the same way the stock LED kit is attached. WAY BETTER. If you do go the clear trackball route i highly suggest you make your own LED pack like this then use the stock one.
yotsuya - for the constant heckling.
Bummed you're done. I was waiting for the multi-picture post where you show us how you switched from oval-head screws to pan-head screws. >:D
Congrats on being done. Best feeling in the (BYOAC) world. :cheers:
Congrats man! This project turned out great! :applaud:
Nice work, I've really enjoyed following this thread. :applaud:
That turned out great ! :applaud:
I have to admit that I really hate CP boxes that are wider than the cab because it just looks clunky, but you, Sir, managed to pull it off with aplomb. Well done !
I have been lurking here for a while but this project made me finally come out of the shadows...
Chance, this is just a gorgeous cab! :applaud:
Quick question for you- After reading the entire thread I noticed you did quite a bit of work putting molex connectors and other quick disconnects in when wiring your cabinet. This is a fantastic idea! Why didn't you put in quick disconnects on the back of your Control Panel so you would be able to remove it without pulling wires from the cab interior?
Read through this entire post over the last two days. (took me that long haha). Great work as everyone has already stated, and I just bought a role of velcro for my cable management. :cheers:
This turned out exceedingly well. Lots of loving care apparent and everything looks so well put together and finished. A pro-build Chance :cheers:
Its an okay build I guess. :D But in all seriousness where did you get your artwork printed at? Its refective and shiny! :o
Is this really your first build? I don't even think i would have dared show mine. 'Kill it with fire' seemed to be the general response from people i showed my first cab attempt to.
This on the other hand looks awesome. Cool (and appropriate) design. Overlapping control panel which i normally hate looks really well designed and insanely well put together. In fact everything looks great here.
Nice work. And really good write up! :applaud:
I can only assume the artwork is has an adhesive backing? (Don't know why I am posting when I could just go email the man. :laugh:)
Your wire management has that certain "anal attentive attention to detail" that I love. Build looks great, I'm still torn on if I like that CP shape, but that's a hang up on me, not a diss on you.
A serious question though, do you have a way to flip a switch and turn off the LEDs? I think they look neat and all, but if I ever put them on any of my cabs, I'd want an off switch.
Great work man. Congrats for finishing it with it with style. Have to say that it turned out very well.You can make these yourself. ;D
One question though about the serial plates you and a few others gets custom made, what kind of "store" makes these ?
One question though about the serial plates you and a few others gets custom made, what kind of "store" makes these ?
By LEDs I assume you mean the ones at the base? That's really all there is aside from the buttons, coin door and marquee. But yes, if I want them off I just reach in and press a button. Can change their colour too.
specifically I meant the button LEDs
If you daisy chain the ground wires for the LEDs (which I know Chance didn't do) you could just put a latching/momentary button in the loop, right?
If you daisy chain the ground wires for the LEDs (which I know Chance didn't do) you could just put a latching/momentary button in the loop, right?RGB LED controllers use one (daisy-chained) 5v/12v line and three separate ground lines for red, green, and blue per LED.
If you daisy chain the ground wires for the LEDs (which I know Chance didn't do) you could just put a latching/momentary button in the loop, right?RGB LED controllers use one (daisy-chained) 5v/12v line and three separate ground lines for red, green, and blue per LED.
If you want to switch off the LEDs with one single-pole, single-throw (SPST) switch, you would place it on the daisy-chained 5v/12v line between the power supply and the LEDs.
Scott
Holy CRAP! Nice work! bit of a "ripple in the Matrix" using the Mac Mini, hehe I like it though. Love the led accent lighting, very nice!
Talk about sexy wiring! :D
Yeah, no kidding.
He and Neph roll like that. With their fancy all black wires and fancy neat runs with no extra slack and their fancy fanciness.
:notworthy: fancy %$#*ers
You mentioned something about pro photos - did you get them done?
I read this build thread yesterday. Pretty effing epic stuff. You're giving me a complex about posting any of my work. :p
....My neighbor just asked if I could build him a 4P cabinet and I'm going to use yours as inspiration...
Just want to add another pat on the back. Awesome build and I love the theme! :)
The details are what separate the good cabinets from the great. Like the tokens, key ring, etc.
You've inspired me as well. Thank you!
:cheers: wow!
Chance, this is one of the best finshed cabs I've seen on here. My neighbor just asked if I could build him a 4P cabinet and I'm going to use yours as inspiration. Simply awesome.
P.S. Look for a new build thread from me in about a couple of weeks....or 2 :D
AJ
(side question - were the CP plans/sketches available? Hard to get a sense of the depth and width - I really like the hinged aspect as well!)
He would do anything for you, but he won't do that.
He would do anything for you, but he won't do that.
Just wanted to say that this build has been a huge inspiration to me. I'm nowhere near ready to start building, but I've looked through this entire thread many times and have it bookmarked on multiple devices.
My project will not be nearly as advanced as this one, but the size and shape of the cabinet and control panel are definitely something I'm likely to use.
Thank you for making so much useful information available.
(side question - were the CP plans/sketches available? Hard to get a sense of the depth and width - I really like the hinged aspect as well!)
I gave out side dimensions? ???
Thanks! :) You are correct. A pair of ultimates would control and light all the buttons. That and wiring up LED's and the buttons should be it.
First, awesome build and amazing description of the entire process! I'm been pseudo-stalking this build as I began designing and building my own arcade. I'll likely document as well, and I'll send a link Chance to make sure you get credit for all of the help -- your ideas and implementation were a great inspiration.
With regards to the ultimate i/o's, I contacted Andy at Ultimarc and he stated that he did not build in unique ID's for those boards, so it is unlikely that your OS would handle both. For the mega board setup as in this build and what I'm doing, he suggested two PacLED64s to control lights and two Mini-Pacs for controls. His trackball setup has usb options as well, but they make a mini-Pac that can handle a trackball and a spinner. I'm not sure if anyone else had success with two ultimate i/o's, but I trust Andy's advice. Good luck, and thanks again Chance!
Thanks!
32" is pretty big. Almost too big for the p3/4 spots. 27" would actually be fine as well. Definitely would t go any bigger then 32. Remember a vast majority of these games were only ever on 19" - 25" monitors. If Simpsons or TMNT Konami cabs can stand the test of time on a 25"CRT 4:3 monitor with 4 players 32" is WAY more than enough.
A quick google search found this
A quick google search found this
An even quicker link found this (http://www.gameroomdesigns.ca/shop/accessories/speaker-cover-4-inch/).
8)
Yep! Also a good choice! :D
:cheers:
Haha "wal-Mart special" did it smash to bits after this pic was taken? :P
Very impressive build! It's given me a lot of inspiration and ideas for my own, first MAME cabinet. Hopefully by mid year 2016 I will have something ready for my new game room!
Hey! I have 2 quick questions for you about your awesome Flynn's Arcade project. Since I just joined this forum, I'm not sure if PM is better than replying to the original thread. If you'd prefer I can re-ask there!
1) I see you have fan vents, but no fans. Do you find your electronics get very hot? I've seen a lot of people insist on good airflow, but then again, they also might be using a higher end PC build.
2) The artwork Brad made for your CP looks fantastic! You mentioned using a polycarb laminate. Is this what makes it look so glossy? Lots of people seem to like putting a plexiglass layer over the CP, but it didn't look like you did. I am not a big fan of the plexiglass look.
Thanks in advance!
Jiminy Integration Vermuth Excretion..... :applaud:
Brang the coal upside his head jack....cold got to be!!! Shiii :afro:
I am in the planning stages of my first build and have found your thread and truly inspired. I am wondering if you had psd files for the side panels and cp to customize the designs. I know your post has the side panels but wondering how that works by bringing it to staples and getting 4x8 panels printed. Any help for a noob would be great.
Thanks
Jon
Be careful with plexi, though... it will scratch easier than glass. Use clean microfiber towels to clean it, not paper towels or anything like that.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7696/17251281373_8187336747_c.jpg)
Hey Chance, on page 12 you show pictures and talk about making LED pairs for your joysticks with LEDs purchased from Paradise Arcade. I'd like to do the same with my joysticks in order to save space on my Ultimate I/O. Just had a couple questions on that:
1) Will there be enough power to run 2 RGB LEDs off of the same 3 pins? Will they be more dim?
If I can get away with using only 3 pins for the 2 RGB LEDs on each joystick, then I think I can run my entire CP off of one Ultimate I/O. If I'll need to use 6 pins for the 2 RGB LEDs, then I've got to rethink some stuff or buy another LED controller.
2) Are the Paradise Arcade LEDs holding up well with PacLED64s? I've read that some LEDs are dim or will degrade more quickly due to some resistor discrepancies with 3rd party LEDs on Ultimarc products.
The PacLED64 and Ultimate I/O both manage the current at 20ma, so you shouldn't run into any issues with LEDs degrading.FYI, the GGG RGB Drive II LEDs were actually 18ma max rated when I bought them 2 years ago, so even with a resistor the UIO (or PacLED64) will feed it 20ma and they will degrade over time.. I have several that are dim on certain colors, flicker in and out, and in general are working poorly. For the record, Randy offered to take them back and refund my money even though it was my mistake in using those LED's with Ultimarc's controller. I did purchase Ultimarc's LED's to replace them but I never got around to swapping them, so I still have those GGG LED's in my cab, which is fine because it only gets used twice a year, lol. Some day I will spend the time replacing all 24 LED's, if I am REALLY bored.
Ok have a question, what would you don't you like / what would you do differently in your component selection?
... but I ended up using the IL buttons that now come pre-done with the black inserts and the same RGB illumination, only using an Ultimate I/O instead of the PacLED.
I need to get some pics of the wiring cleaned up and actually hooked up to the UIO.
...
I saw those Helio 9's, but would they work inside the IL pushbutton? I was really hoping to use the same buttons Chance did (black with the transparent bezel).
Chance, you can pm me if you don't want to post it here (not sure if i can even receive pms yet lol) but how much did you roughly spend on everything for this build?One million dollars, Canadian.
Oh, and you might have better luck with him on KLOV.
It's a site/forum that mostly focuses on restoration/repair/collection of original arcade hardware, from what I can see.
what is KLOV?It's the arcade-museum site and forums -- a great resource for finding info and parts for dedicated cabs.
thansk guys. i signed up and got banned for 30 minutes for not logging in with the right username on one page and my email on the other. not my day lolWhen you do send them a p.m. there, make sure you tell him I sent you.
Oh, and you might have better luck with him on KLOV.
...how much did you roughly spend on everything for this build?
Oh, and you might have better luck with him on KLOV.
^^^^This is good advice.^^^^...how much did you roughly spend on everything for this build?
a LOT. Lost track past $5500 Canadian, (whats that like $50 USD??). But thats including a TON of parts and supplies i didn't use, or had to buy replacements of if i messed something up. This build was my first, a labor of love, and an all out balls to the wall effort of throwing money at things until they were how i imagined them.
...Just, would have used plexi instead of glass... ::)
Just wanted to ask what those 4 black knob looking things are in the control panel?
Just wanted to ask what those 4 black knob looking things are in the control panel?
...Once i was happy with the base, i lined up the CP centre with the cab, clamped it down and used the same small forester bit to cut holes through the CP and mounting board. The bolts shown in the picture are just temporary ones i had in case i went with a thicker mounting board. I need to get shorter ones or cut these down.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3863/14423385391_82e4671deb_c.jpg)
Chance, first of all great build. I have now read through this twice. Once a while back, and again, yesterday. It is interesting how many ideas I took from you that I didn't realize that I had. Mostly what I have done is a bit of a redo of my control panel and marquee, but I ended up using the IL buttons that now come pre-done with the black inserts and the same RGB illumination, only using an Ultimate I/O instead of the PacLED. I have even incorporated similar Bulgin buttons for power and admin, but I am using the UIO to control the admin buttons as well (power gets its power from the PC).
I need to get some pics of the wiring cleaned up and actually hooked up to the UIO.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1603/24788287430_63668032a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DLssf3)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1444/24942807322_ef63006d67_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/E17pC7)
Keith
Hi Chance,Yeah, just see if you can exchange the 5v leds for 12v ones.
Really love your build, its inspired me to build my own but I have a question about your power supply. Is it a 12VDC, 5A, 60W POWER SUPPLY such as the one found here http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=880? (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=880?) If so are you running a direct 12v line into your two PacLED64's? The reason I ask is that the button led's I picked up from Paradise arcade are 5v and if i run 12v power into my PacLED64's I assume I will either shorten the life of my led's and or my PacLED64's.
Thanks,
Bill
Hello Keith,
Can you share where you purchased your black IL buttons with transparent bezel that come pre-done with the color changing RGB LEDs? I too am researching to do a similar control panel and want to light up the bezels for the player, start, controls, etc. in different colors.
:applaud: Hey !
I am working on building my own Arcade... already have parts of the hardware done and Hyperspin running...
Can you let me know where you got the Coin Door?
What kind of Coin-Mech did you use?
Where did you get your own "Flynn's" Coins?
???
THANK YOU for the help,
Julez
I'm digging those speaker grills. Anyone know where he purchased those or where I could get similar ones for my cab? ThanksI don't know. Why don't you PM him?
Must just burn your guys nuts that that his build keeps floating to the top...I love it.I get along with Chance very well. We chat outside this forum. What I don't like/feel bad for are people who post questions for him and then get ignored. That's why I recommend they PM him. It has nothing to do with being a "hater". :dunno
I think Chance got thrown into the same pot as Kaneda (for reasons really unknown to me other than he had some hard earned expendable income that he threw at a hobby he enjoyed...something that is frowned upon on this forum as you need to be some cheap ass ---fudgesicle--- that wouldn't pay retail to save a drowning baby to get any respect)...then it turned into a hate parade. Also...he seemed generally happy...another trait frowned upon.
Most of the people I know don't give two shits about building their own arcade cab...think you folks need to embrace (tolerate?) someone that at least enjoys(ed) the hobby and contributed something other than snide ass comments about his forum etiquette (which never bugged me).
Also, who gives a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- when he decides to post here either...some guys don't post here for years and when they do, people jump all over their d$#k.:dunno
Let the thread do what it does...if ya don't like it...ya don't click on it...pretty simple... :cheers:
Actually...not sure I ever posted in this thread, so as not to upset the forum police with an unnecessary bumping, I will say "Good work on the cab...don't think I have seen a more popular design since I joined.". As they say, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!!!".
Must just burn your guys nuts that that his build keeps floating to the top...I love it.I get along with Chance very well. We chat outside this forum. What I don't like/feel bad for are people who post questions for him and then get ignored. That's why I recommend they PM him. It has nothing to do with being a "hater". :dunno
I think Chance got thrown into the same pot as Kaneda (for reasons really unknown to me other than he had some hard earned expendable income that he threw at a hobby he enjoyed...something that is frowned upon on this forum as you need to be some cheap ass ---fudgesicle--- that wouldn't pay retail to save a drowning baby to get any respect)...then it turned into a hate parade. Also...he seemed generally happy...another trait frowned upon.
Most of the people I know don't give two shits about building their own arcade cab...think you folks need to embrace (tolerate?) someone that at least enjoys(ed) the hobby and contributed something other than snide ass comments about his forum etiquette (which never bugged me).
Also, who gives a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- when he decides to post here either...some guys don't post here for years and when they do, people jump all over their d$#k.:dunno
Let the thread do what it does...if ya don't like it...ya don't click on it...pretty simple... :cheers:
Actually...not sure I ever posted in this thread, so as not to upset the forum police with an unnecessary bumping, I will say "Good work on the cab...don't think I have seen a more popular design since I joined.". As they say, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!!!".
Hi Chance,
I've literally been lurking on your build for the past month. A neighbor and I are really inspired by your build and are starting to piece everything together for the build! I feel the need to give you props for the amazing work and ideas you've given us!! We won't be able to build anything close to your caliber but we'll do our best and if we don't screw up we'll definitely be posting here!!
Thanks!
E
I'm digging those speaker grills. Anyone know where he purchased those or where I could get similar ones for my cab? Thanks
1. Where did you buy the black L brackets to hold the marquee in?
Just read through every post on this thread, all 19 pages of it.
Lots of information!!!! Love the detail of the build shared in this thread!
Couple of questions if the builder ChanceKJ:
1. Where did you buy the black L brackets to hold the marquee in?
2. Did you keep the display frame on and then place weather stripping on the sides, then the tinted glass?
3. How do you control power to everything? Is there a one button control for everything to turn on at once?
Wow! Great cabinet!!
G'day Mate! I just signed up to the forum specifically to say thank-you very much for the awesome write up! Its proved kinda hard to find decent info on cab building online so this has been my saviour. I've been over and over this thread the last week or so and its helped me a lot! I'm now ready to dive in and get this puppy made. Your design is soon to exist way across the ocean in Australia! Gonna go with a more rounded at the front CP and a Street Fighter theme, cant wait!
Cool, thanks a lot. Ive started a thread here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152916.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152916.0.html)
Not much to see yet though. I could use some tips on joysticks and buttons as it turns out. Will be playing mostly beat em up's on the machine would you have any recommendations? Should I make sure I get a SANWA brand stick ya think?
Just wondering where the custom tokens were sourced? They are very nice along with the rest of the build.
Just wondering where the custom tokens were sourced? They are very nice along with the rest of the build.
Those are not customs, he said earlier (don't remember the page though) that they were leftover tokens...
Just wondering where the custom tokens were sourced? They are very nice along with the rest of the build.
Those are not customs, he said earlier (don't remember the page though) that they were leftover tokens...
OK thanks, I figured since the name of the tokens matched the name in the Marquee that they were custom.
Hey Chance. I'm just talking with a printer now to see about getting the PDF plan printed out and he's saying "The PDF file is setup at a standard A1 size (841mm x 594mm)".
He's wondering what size I want it enlarged to and I'm not sure about this.
Hey Chance, what do you suggest regarding trying to reduce the sodium in my diet?
Cowboys, 27-24 fo sho.We are no longer homies.
Chance, great build.Honestly no, i chose a TV based on how it looked off angle, i wanted to make sure if people were playing on the 3 or 4 player spots that they could still see a decent picture. Unless there is a feature that you really feel you need, don't over think it too much. Also, this TV wasn't turning on when detecting signals, so i soldered a lead to the solder side of the power button PCB and ran it to the power button panel i had on the back of the CP.
I'm thinking about a 32" TV like you and I was wondering if you feel like you missed out on anything with the TV being 720p or gained anything with it being 120Hz? I know the games are much lower in resolution but I'm planning on using the simulated widescreen bezels on mine and they were almost photorealistic on my 1080p monitor.
Also, is this TV able to turn itself on after detecting a signal like a computer monitor? Is there a specific feature I need to look for in shopping for these monitors?
Hey Chance, looks like you were wrong on that Cowboys pick. Who do you like this weekend? Let me know so I can bet accordingly.
Hey Chance, AWESOME build man. One question though, when you wired up the dual LEDs for the joystick lights, how did you connect them to the controller? Did you wore them in series to one (or 3 RGB) output? Or did you wire them to separate channels that have the same color setting at all times?
crazy resemblance...
http://www.paradoxarcades.com/intro/ (http://www.paradoxarcades.com/intro/)
Considering Jarrett never actually built it, I guess it's safe to say the design belongs to the community. :-)Yep, he uses my design for his cabs that he builds and sells. Kinda cool actually :DYour design?
You mean jarrett's design , right?
Your entire cab is based on his form factor.
Considering Jarrett never actually built it, I guess it's safe to say the design belongs to the community. :-)Yep, he uses my design for his cabs that he builds and sells. Kinda cool actually :DYour design?
You mean jarrett's design , right?
Your entire cab is based on his form factor.
Sorry for bringing this up. Didn't mean to spin up the wheel for some axe grinding :(
Can I ask where you got your speaker grill from? I apologize if you've already answered this question. ThanksNo worries! The Speaker grills came from Parts Express.
Hey Chance (or anyone), do you have any more specific I instructions on where exactly to attach the cleats to the large side panels, especially the top section for the marquee? So I'm not just winging that part. Thank you!
Chance,
Had you considered a pedestal at any point instead of a cabinet based on the Control Panel and screen size? Typically most control panels I see that large are being used in a Pedestal type setup.
Just wanted your thoughts on that, I want a similarly sized control panel but had not considered a cabinet.
Chance,
Had you considered a pedestal at any point instead of a cabinet based on the Control Panel and screen size? Typically most control panels I see that large are being used in a Pedestal type setup.
Just wanted your thoughts on that, I want a similarly sized control panel but had not considered a cabinet.
I didn't. Honestly, i can't think of a single time where i though to go that route. I guess for me the focus was playing games like Konami Simpsons, Metal Slug, and DK. All games that I only ever saw in cabinets. I think thats also the genesis of where my design came from. I wanted the screen hight from my childhood playing Simpsons, but at the initial inset of this project i knew little to nothing about CRT's in relation to the arcade world and gaming and had very little space to work with where i was living. I was struggling with the challenge of the overall form factor and as i was doing my research i found there were a few notable "out of the box" options like Ond's Metropolis. In the end I really didn't see anything avalible for side profile designs i loved, and also found it to be one of those things that everyone made up themselves, with some getting beached on. If you talk a look at the 3rd post in this thread, i had a profile and layout that i wanted to adhere to, but i wanted to make it my own.
Soon after realizing a vast majority of the overall design was building off of the best parts of other cabinets i'd researched, i decided to make the plans free for anyone who wanted to use them. After consulting with HaRuMaN, i commissioned him to take my rough plans into CAD for use on a CnC. He thankfully added a few additions to the side profiles like rounded corners, and a 4º tilt to the control panel mounting surface. Then we did a little back and forth on the button layout to go on Jarrett's CP top design.
In the end this project rests on the shoulders of those who are noted in the first post. All of them. I added a few little things of my own over time, and in the end this is what i was left with. A couple notable things i would have done differently are the back panel design, (which i learned could have been MUCH more simple from the actual cabinets i would go on to restore), as well as the display glass where i should in retrospect have used tinted plexi.
Next i tackled mounting the CP. I'm pretty proud of this part of the design. Simple, basic and it also doubles as a rail to hold the display glass. I wasn't planning on drilling through the side panels, but for something that needed to be as sturdy as the CP mount i made an exception. Six 3" deck screws later...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/14240026879_cfe1bc85b0_c.jpg)
Here's a closeup of the rabbit i put on the edge to hold the display glass. I made sure it was a couple millimetres lower then the side panel CP outcroppings. this way i can have a snug fit with the CP and the side panels in case theres any warping in the wood, now or down the road.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5112/14240078559_d72e69c275_c.jpg)
Hey!Ok Jennifer will bite on this....Why would you most definitely go with smoked plexy over glass?
First off, yeah, i'd most definitly go with smoked plexi over glass. a nice sheet of ¼" should do well.
The height of the marquee in its brackets is just a little past 7", I know home depot has a couple sizes of that black metal bracket i used. This was the 1", but ¾" will work just as well and is what i use on some of my restorations like i did with my Robotron (https://flic.kr/s/aHskCC3hHC). the actual marquee plastic is i think 7", but that gap is covered by the brackets. There is no standard size for a marquee. I've got some pretty odd sizes in my collection, and theres even more out there. I just made it that tall because anything larger looked silly in my 3D sketches. I did consider to switch the bracket to ¾" after i had bought that 1" by accident. but i didn't mind the way it looked.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/38306163814_143db1152a_b.jpg)
I think its typical to have something that holds the display surface in place. Most actual arcade cabinets have some sor of edge or groove holding it in place. I'd still go with the rabbet. In fact here (https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/5-ways-to-make-precision-rabbet-cuts) is a good resource for making rabbets. The one thing i would have added is a cutout so that i could easily remove the glass/plexi. I've shown that in the picture below as a red marking. I've needed to remove the glass a couple times and this would have just made it a TON more easy. as it stands right now i have a couple small strips of thin black ribbon under the glass so i can lift it up, which isn't ideal.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4689/39022706041_202cc0b483_b.jpg)
Ok Jennifer will bite on this....Why would you most definitely go with smoked plexy over glass?
I have never seen a piece of plexy worth saving, Especially in smoky abusive, environments, glass IMO would be a far better choice on a machine called overambitious....In other news, I watched your pinball unboxing video.... And OMG, did I laugh, and laugh , and then your buddy was all like scratching his butt out in the warehouse parking lot. So I would laugh again. :laugh2:Ok Jennifer will bite on this....Why would you most definitely go with smoked plexy over glass?
...Why do you have to quote the whole post if you're posting right after? haha :)
Plexi over glass is simple, Weight, cost, clarity. Plexi weighs less then glass, costs less then glass, and unless you buy higher end glass you'll avoid blemishes in plexi like you see in glass. Glass was great (kinda) in older arcade cabinets when plexi was expensive, but now, and especially for home use plexi is the clear winner. Even when it comes to older games, unless it was originally glass, i'd rather have plexi as it can be repaired by simply polishing with Novis.
How hard are you dusting?!It was my fault didn't dust it off like what you said a swifter. And it's just cheap Home Depot plexi
I’d just run over it with a swifer and stay away from any kind of windex or glass cleaner. Did you get acrylic or polycarbonate? Acrylic is shinier and polycarb is stronger. Acrylic is less expensive but easier to crack. Polycarb is more impact resisant but easier to scratch.
Hey Chance, this unit is AMAZING. I'm just starting my research on building my own unit and your resources on the 1st page is a great resource. About 4 years ago I read the book Project Arcade by St. Clair and I recently purchased his most recent version and starting my reading again. It's due to having kids and coaching club soccer 5-6 days a week for the past 3 years that this project has taken a back seat. I REALLY need to start this project as I'm itching to play all the old games I grew up with. I do have a few questions if you don't mind answering:
1) On your CP, why do you have only 4 buttons on players 3 & 4? What type of games are played with 4 players? This will obviously decided on a 2 or 4 player CP.
2) With this unit playing the old style games, can it easily play the current gaming units like PS, Xbox, etc. I've never purchased either but in the event I do I would like it to be compatible.
I live in Edmonton, AB and sometimes travel up to Calgary for soccer tournaments. Any chance we can meet and take a look at your cabinet? Take care
Peter
Hey Chance, this unit is AMAZING. I'm just starting my research on building my own unit and your resources on the 1st page is a great resource. About 4 years ago I read the book Project Arcade by St. Clair and I recently purchased his most recent version and starting my reading again. It's due to having kids and coaching club soccer 5-6 days a week for the past 3 years that this project has taken a back seat. I REALLY need to start this project as I'm itching to play all the old games I grew up with. I do have a few questions if you don't mind answering:
1) On your CP, why do you have only 4 buttons on players 3 & 4? What type of games are played with 4 players? This will obviously decided on a 2 or 4 player CP.
2) With this unit playing the old style games, can it easily play the current gaming units like PS, Xbox, etc. I've never purchased either but in the event I do I would like it to be compatible.
I live in Edmonton, AB and sometimes travel up to Calgary for soccer tournaments. Any chance we can meet and take a look at your cabinet? Take care
Peter
You shouldn’t of said you were from Edmonton, bro. Chance is a hard-core Red Wings fan. You blew your chance. :-)
Trying to download your CAD/PDF files from the first post but the link doesn't seem to work for me. Is there anywhere else I can download from or does anyone else have a copy they can link me to?? Thanks in advance!
Trying to download your CAD/PDF files from the first post but the link doesn't seem to work for me. Is there anywhere else I can download from or does anyone else have a copy they can link me to?? Thanks in advance!
I just tried it and it seems to work fine. Keep in mind that the link on the first post simply redirects you to the actual post deeper in the thread that I uploaded the zip file to.
mimicking your build with a few modifications on things i'm personally wanting. i'm fairly new to the site and didn't start a build post (mostly cause i don't know what i'm doing) but i've gone through this build about 50 dozen times and glad to see it's fairly active. here's my work in progressLooking good! What kind of plywood did you use? And do you have a pic of you control panel? You really should start your own post and add some more interior pics. Would like to see the progress of this build.
***be nice, this is my first build haha***
mimicking your build with a few modifications on things i'm personally wanting. i'm fairly new to the site and didn't start a build post (mostly cause i don't know what i'm doing) but i've gone through this build about 50 dozen times and glad to see it's fairly active. here's my work in progressLooking good! What kind of plywood did you use? And do you have a pic of you control panel? You really should start your own post and add some more interior pics. Would like to see the progress of this build.
***be nice, this is my first build haha***
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Thats awesome!
I really love how you did the gun holsters! :D
Well this build is boarding on legendary at this point.
Yup. It was executed well, but there are some key flaws in the ergonomic design, especially around the Control Panel. It's been discussed in many other threads here.Well this build is boarding on legendary at this point.
No, its still a great execution of a bad design; far from legendary. Every time the thread finally fall off the first page (which is tough because the traffic on this site has slowed to a crawl) someone comes along and makes a post that should have been a PM to him or asks for something already answered in the thread.
Well this build is boarding on legendary at this point. :lol: I discovered it as a Reddit reference. I've got a 2-player bartop running Hyperspin that took some time but was well worth it in the end. Helps I work for a large-format print with CNC capabilities ;D
My best friend finally built his 4-bay shop with a loft and wants to put in a game room. He asked me to help him built a 4-player full sized cabinet. After doing a 2-player bartop I figured a 4-player stand up couldn't be TOO much worse. However I'm having a hard time locating CNC files for a complete cabinet. Found several dead links and partial files (i.e. Flynn's side panels) but nothing complete. Chance, do you have (or even want to distribute) 1:1 CNC plans for your build? I'd like to use it as a template. I think we would dumb it down a bit (no coin door, fewer LED buttons, etc) but the over all build looks perfect for what my friend is looking for. If you willing to share the plans please let me know. At any rate it's and amazing build, well done. And thank you for the contributions!
How did you determine the placements and legnths of all the ledger boards? Do you have a diagram and/or measurements for where to put them?
About how high would you say the top of the front of your control panel is above the ground? I'm starting to put mine together based off of your build and mine feels a little high, but it may be all in my head.I guess that would be personal preference. If you feel it's too high and uncomfortable to play (for some hours in a row), it's too high. :dunno
About how high would you say the top of the front of your control panel is above the ground? I'm starting to put mine together based off of your build and mine feels a little high, but it may be all in my head.I guess that would be personal preference. If you feel it's too high and uncomfortable to play (for some hours in a row), it's too high. :dunno
About how high would you say the top of the front of your control panel is above the ground? I'm starting to put mine together based off of your build and mine feels a little high, but it may be all in my head.
Glad to see you getting some pub, Chance!!!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190129/9fabdeb0995b999adb80af3369b7e842.jpg)
First off amazing build. One question though on your cp I saw you posted rough dimensions of the base thank you of that but was curious how much of a hangover you have for the top and if the hangover is on all sides or just front and sides.
makes sense- as far as time/cost what do you feel that it added to your project overall if you don't mind me asking?
Whew, finally finished reading through this mammoth thread. Kudos on having completed your vision! There were so many interesting ideas used in your build. Your attention to detail really shows in the finished product too.
The volume control is one piece I'm still wondering about though. It looks like you had one idea originally and then opted to use a PowerMate?
How stable is your cab overall?
It looks like you're more into the restoration scene these days. With all your restored cabs, how does the Flynn arcade stand up?
Do you and your friends spend as much time playing it or do people tend to gravitate to the original machines?
If Flynn still gets decent usage, what games are people playing on there that they couldn't play on the dedicated machines?
Ok Chance- I am underway in my build! I just received my Ultimarc U-Trac trackball and had a question about your install. If I am correct, it doesn't look like you ended up using the trim ring over the top, correct? If so, are you still happy with that decision or would you have used the trim ring in hindsight?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the questions!
Okay, one more question from me. Arcade machines are pretty big projects involving a lot of different skill sets, software, electronics, wood working, design, etc. Which parts came easiest to you and which were more difficult?
Well here it is... I've finally started. Thanks Chance for all of the inspiration and design. I have started with your side panels and tweaked it a little along the way. Added a spinner, changed the way the marquee mounts, and like you have said many times, just came up with things along the way. Here is a link to my build
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160304.0.html
Not exactly sure what euro style ones i used for the door, but these are the ones for the control panel.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40233&cat=3,41241
Honestly for the CP, a standard piano hinge from the hardware store would work just as good or better.
Where did you get your crimper for the molex pins? I'm having issues with the one I ordered where the little tabs that lock into place inside of the enclosure are crushed when crimped. I'm just assuming it's an issue with the crimper tool and not a technique error, but it's driving me crazy either way :banghead:
I know everyone swears by ratcheting crimp tools, but personality I can’t stand them. Haha maybe thats just me :)
I know everyone swears by ratcheting crimp tools, but personality I can’t stand them. Haha maybe thats just me :)
I know everyone swears by ratcheting crimp tools, but personality I can’t stand them. Haha maybe thats just me :)
It's just you
These are what you are looking for. Just pick the type you need depending on the way you want the door to come out.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=55420&cat=3,41241
I was also wondering if you had the plans for the control panel. Want to try to make this but cannot seem to find anything on the actual dimensions for it.
Hello ,
Could somebody please help for plans for the sidepanels , but then for a 43 inch screen ?
thank you
OH SNAP! ...Update time.
First off, very impressed with OneDayGlass.com (http://www.OneDayGlass.com). In less then a week they made my glass to spec and delivered it to me over the border. If you need a sheet of glass for your project they are a pretty solid choice.
Now, on with the update! As mentioned the display glass has arrived! It is a Dark tint ¼" sheet of tempered glass, custom made with a pencil grind on two edges. overall dimensions are 25" x 31"13/16ths.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5608/15434168758_a699319124_c.jpg)
I picked up some ½" closed cell foam weatherstripping from Home Depot. Its a little thick, however it should give the glass a snug fit.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3946/15434700110_6d5e79d32a_c.jpg)
I cut two strips and attached them to the rails on either side of the display.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/15621128832_9aae3d0b4a_c.jpg)
Next i made sure to clean the display, and add a small bit of electrical tape over the TV's green indicator light.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/14999533084_ec7070db9b_c.jpg)
The glass can be installed two ways. With one person where you remove the control panel box, but that could take ages and is best done when relocating the cab. Or the second method is to use two people and prop open the CP lid. I haven't installed the nice little stay chains yet, so i had to hold it open with a half deck of cards. (Pardon the hazy picture, forgot to clean the fingerprints off lens of my iPhone).
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/15433654929_c7e4b45e4a_c.jpg)
The tolerance is just enough that it fits up into the top of the cab, then slots down into the back of the CP box mounting surface. Exactly as planned so many months ago. ;D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/15434170688_34891aa417_c.jpg)
I am very happy with how the display glass turned out. As i said, its a bit snug due to how thick the foam is, but its solid. I'm not painting the back of the glass. I purposefully made everything i could inside black so i wouldn't have to mask off the glass or add some kind of bezel. The added bonus is that you can see the CPU through the lower part of the display when you open the hidden utility panel on the front.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/15434170688_34891aa417_c.jpg)
Its hard to tell in the pictures, but the glass goes right to the bottom of the base of the CP box, and totally encloses the display area off. It looks so slick and bad ass in person.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/15618618711_8cd75fff2a_c.jpg)(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5616/15622106332_f94e5c4532_c.jpg)
I still have a few more smaller things to do: Some 120v wiring, adding the serial number plate, make a couple changes to the CP wiring to help in game control setup/coin door operation better, some software tweaks, shelling Windows, programming the button LEDs, adding a light diffuser under the Trackball LED, and finishing the setup of the emulators. For now though here are a couple pictures of the lighting test i ran after installing the glass to check for glare and play distractions...
It's REALLY hard to see in the pictures, but with the dark tinted glass in place, and a game running, the screen looks like its just floating in the middle of the glass. Its really cool!
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3933/15433659109_f0ab377c67_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/15434291807_5233a5255c_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15434706350_d22f79c00c_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15434292927_9fd10cdf74_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/15434176448_4bdb181eba_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15617629781_27edd6f93b_c.jpg)
...More to come... We're not done yet folks!
Thanks for the detail in this thread, i just started my build today based on your design.
If you have the time, i have a few questions regarding your TV and the glass in front of it.
1) Did you get the "Dark Gray" tint?
2) Are the pencil grind edges on the left and rights sides?
3) Did you put anything around the tv the 'enclose' it?
3a) If you didn't, with the tinted glass, do you see anything around the tv?
4) Does the tint affect the color / picture quality? Did you have to turn the brightness up on the TV?
5) The glass i was quoted was about $150 for the glass shipped, about right?
Thanks in advance.
Oooh Master :notworthy:
Any chance we can get the dimensions/plans for that CP ? Would looooooove to do something similar!
I got the spouse approval already too :cheers: haha
And goodjob on the build :applaud: : its just insane! (Wont lie, took some good greats ideas ready those pages last year :tool:)
Thanks in advance!
I was also wondering if you had the plans for the control panel. Want to try to make this but cannot seem to find anything on the actual dimensions for it.
If you're still looking for this send me a PM.
Just planning my own cab and your's has really become the standard in this space I think.
QuoteJust planning my own cab and your's has really become the standard in this space I think.
God is dead.
I would also like the dimension of the cp loving it I am guessing this is old post
Oooh Master :notworthy:
Any chance we can get the dimensions/plans for that CP ? Would looooooove to do something similar!
I got the spouse approval already too :cheers: haha
And goodjob on the build :applaud: : its just insane! (Wont lie, took some good greats ideas ready those pages last year :tool:)
Thanks in advance!
Love the build, Chance. And love reading the thread throughout the process. I believe I see four utility buttons at the top center.. just out of curiosity, what functions did you assign them?
Also, did you line up the p1/p2 joysticks with the center of the two button rows? And are there any changes you would make to the CP layout if you could?
Thanks!
Original plan was to have them as generic utility buttons, Pause, return to menu etc. but they can really be switched for anything. Start/Select on consoles, etc.
The only intentional design choices on the CP layout were to have the P1/2 buttons ergonomically shaped to my hand when playing, and distances apart so the controls would fit when installed in the real world.
I would also appreciate a lot if I could get the the files for the controls in particular
Im starting to make my own arcade, and its really hard to find any good control layout like you have on your arcade
I will also say that the result is quite impressive, I will be quite pleased if I can achieve at least half of it
I would highly recommend you research other 4 player control panels on this forum before you decide. I too was inspired by this build, but when you do your homework, you may opt for a revised layout. You should also consider who you are building for. As Chance pointed out, he revised his button layouts to specifically match his hand. You might want to do the same, or go with something more universal. Some food for thought...
I would highly recommend you research other 4 player control panels on this forum before you decide. I too was inspired by this build, but when you do your homework, you may opt for a revised layout. You should also consider who you are building for. As Chance pointed out, he revised his button layouts to specifically match his hand. You might want to do the same, or go with something more universal. Some food for thought...
True, I have actually visited many other projects and read many comments about positioning
But seems quite hard to get a full layout so you can at least get a decent initial buttons and joysticks positions
I may try to use one layout, edit it a little and then try to make it on cardboard to see how it ends up
I would highly recommend you research other 4 player control panels on this forum before you decide. I too was inspired by this build, but when you do your homework, you may opt for a revised layout. You should also consider who you are building for. As Chance pointed out, he revised his button layouts to specifically match his hand. You might want to do the same, or go with something more universal. Some food for thought...
True, I have actually visited many other projects and read many comments about positioning
But seems quite hard to get a full layout so you can at least get a decent initial buttons and joysticks positions
I may try to use one layout, edit it a little and then try to make it on cardboard to see how it ends up
If you are going to put any time and effort into actually building a machine - its going to cost you at least $1K (mine was over $2K and its not nearly the scale of this one) - if you have no tools to build one its even more except the tools are reusable.
Make a mock up of the CP in particle board. Its inexpensive. How do you "play" a game on cardboard with it flexing, etc..? My mock-up was set up on a bench for 2 weeks while I tweaked the height, angle and button layouts.. The only right answer is the one that fits you .. I worked on screen angle too - but I was starting from the beginning.
Finally - what's the goal? building a cabinet or having a cabinet? If building one isn't first.. you may have a tough time finishing (that been my observation over time)
Good luck!
Thanks for the advices, I will make that mockup to see if it looks good
It is an amazing job. I want to mount something like that but I don't have plans to do it. There is a possibility that you could send me the plans. Where I live there is nothing similar to be able to develop it. Thank you
Really love your cabinet mate. You've done an amazing job. The finish on it is incredible. It oozes the hard work that you've poured into it. Well done :-)
Great build thread Chance! Awesome detail and pictures.
Would you happen to have a list of everything you ordered over the course of the build? I’ve seen a few partial lists throughout this thread. I’ll soon be placing my orders for my own build and am doing my best to make sure I’m not missing anything (extra shipping costs for missed items = sadness).
Cheers!
It is an amazing job. I want to mount something like that but I don't have plans to do it. There is a possibility that you could send me the plans. Where I live there is nothing similar to be able to develop it. Thank you
PM sent. :)
For sure! I sent you a PM!
For sure! I sent you a PM!
can you send also to me?
thanks!
I was also wondering if you had the plans for the control panel. Want to try to make this but cannot seem to find anything on the actual dimensions for it.
Its a take take take, Instant gratification world out there, Over 50% of the people who have asked for plans have all of 1 or 2 posts total here :) We need new blood building stuff, don't just hit and run with the plans, stay, show, share :)I dunno, I'm fine with these hit and run members. Last thing we need is more perpetuation of bad design choices being propogated throughout the forum, and us having to constantly course-correct people on why that CP design isn't ideal.
A large percentage of the people that ask for plans never do anything with them. Those that do manage to start on a cab very seldom finish the project.Perhaps this is true...However my house reeks of epoxy today, and Jenn has bits of carbon fiber stuck to her hair, Finish this...Or die trying.
I'm pretty sure every single post member in this thread is just Chance creating new accounts on different computers to get his post count up for this thread. ;D
...Uh I mean Great build Chance! I am building a Star Wars cab and I come here for inspiration.
It is an amazing job. There is a possibility that you could send me the plans. If you could do this again would you put a bigger tv other then the 32 inch? if so what do you think is good would saying this is too much? Thank you
I hope all you people coming with your hands out are at least subscribing to his YouTube channel or something like that....
You’re a good dude!I hope all you people coming with your hands out are at least subscribing to his YouTube channel or something like that....
I did, as well as sent him a few bucks. Thanks for the super fast reply Chance!
I hope all you people coming with your hands out are at least subscribing to his YouTube channel or something like that....
I did, as well as sent him a few bucks. Thanks for the super fast reply Chance!
I hope all you people coming with your hands out are at least subscribing to his YouTube channel or something like that....
I did, as well as sent him a few bucks. Thanks for the super fast reply Chance!
You should start your own build thread, but if you want a head start on the project, here's your chance to get a pre-made control panel
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,163252.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,163252.0.html)
Nice Mustang BTW
Truly awesome build. I’ve never built anything above 24” yet, but would love to have a go at something similar to this build. Would it also be possible to send me your plans chance.
wow i just spent a good 90 minutes with a huge smile on my face in this thread. I have never been more motivated to build a cabinet is there any chance i could please get a copy of the plans?
I really love this build! I was wondering if I can have a copy of the plans please? Thanks in advance.
Hi Chance. Thank you for all of your posts and your pictures - for a noob like me it's very helpful!
Would be possible to get a copy of the plans too? I did see you posted some content in one of the earlier posts in this thread... so I'm not sure what add'l info there is to DM but I'm going to assume its "better" since everyone keeps asking for it.
I'm sorry if I missed a post, but looking back do you have any regrets about what you didn't do/wish you'd done anything differently? (I'll be going back and RTFM again to make sure I didn't miss it ;-) )
Hi Chance awesome job! I have been searching all around for a design just like this. Would you be willing to share the plans with me?
I have never built an arcade machine and would love a copy of these plans as a starting point. It's an incredible build.
Thanks so much
Found this thread while searching how to build a cabinet. I have been looking to build a 4 player arcade cabinet the last few years and finally have some free time! Your cabinet turned out AWESOME!. I would love to get a copy of your plans whenever you get a chance. Also seems like a good place to get help and feedback. Thanks for your help!
This build is amazing and gorgeous. Do you find it wide enough for 4 adults to play without any crowding?
Also can I get the your plans? I'm want to start my own 4 player cabinet build soon and this looks like a great starting off point.
I love how neat this build is, thanks for all your insights and tips! You have saved me many hours and my sanity as you show me things I hadn’t even considered. I’ll also base my CP on Jarrett’s design but will have my own spin on it.
Apologies if you have shown it somewhere but what microswitches did you or would you choose for you buttons if you could pick again?
Can I also please get your cabinet plans, I’m going to start my building my cabinet over the Christmas break when I have access to a Ute.
I agree you should add a thread linking all the clone cabs!
This project is unreal. Any chance anyone has a copy of the plans for the control panel? I am rebuilding mine and this is very much what id like to build. THanks!
Been looking for plans so I can build a cabinet and was led here. your build is fantastic and I made an account just to say that and to ask if I can also have the plans as so many others have asked.
Continuing some LED tests today... Trying to decide on transparent or translucent inserts for the joystick lights.
I've thrown them both into my test rig for consideration. One thing is for sure. there is no middle ground. it's either fully transparent or completely buffed up translucent. The other two test rings didn't make a big enough difference to be considered.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14021833107_9535aee9b1_o.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14022518637_bbc62776a6_c.jpg)
Yes, I definitely did some testing, but it wasn't on the count of the LED's in the stick, It was pretty much planned from Day 1 that I was going to have a pair on each stick and have them light from the left and right sides. Not really sure why I made that decision, just did. I'm sure you could use one LED, but I'd recommend positioning it between the player and the shaft of the stick, pointing away from the player towards the stick, and not from "above" pointing back at the player. I'd also recommend scuffing up the plexi tube to help defuse the light better.
I never did try scuffing the dust washers, as I had planned for them to have the player number on each laser etched into them, plus I wanted to see down into the hole, and have a good amount of light come up and hit the smoke ball tops.
Hi Chance, your project is awesome. The detail is incredible and I really like that it doesn't take up an insane amount of space. I've built a 2-player cabinet which easily fits through a standard doorway and looking to do a 4-player with removable control panel that will also be relatively easy to move.
I just created an account so can't DM, yet. Are you able share the plans via DM?
Thanks a bunch.
Amazing build! I tried getting your pdfs and the link seems dead. Can you send me a pm with your plans? Thanks!
Good morning! Super high quality work. I am new and apparently can't send PMs but could chance, the op please email me the side pdf to *******@gmail.com?
Thank you.
Hey! I've been following your gallery and Deez's updates on Reddit. I'm hoping to find the control panel plans if possible! Everything else has been amazing and really got me going. Just looking at everything has been inspiring and really got me wanting to do the wiring (my favorite part) and learning the woodworking as I go!
My last question is I have a 47" TV that has been retired, would this work for that as well or would your recommend sticking to 32" to reduce bezel space?
Thanks again, this is truly fantastic work!
Looking to build myself an arcade machine this year and I think yours checks all my boxes. Willing to share your design? Much obliged!
Chance,
This is awesome! I'm going to start building one ASAP.
I would love to have those plans if your willing.
I'd also love to see the plans for this. Very nice build, exactly what I would like to do.
Love the build. Attention to detail was great and as someone is interested in building a 4 play cab, I learned a lot going this thread. Would appreciate the plans if possible.
Wouldn't it be convenient if they were just posted on the forum?