Post by: ChanceKJ on October 14, 2013, 11:57:18 pm
IT’S DONE! I think it’s time to official put a pin in my first arcade build. First of all I would like to thank the many people that helped with this build. In no particular order (and pardon me if i forgot anyone).
PL1 - For a TON of advice and help on things to numerous to mention.
Nephasth - inspiration, parts sourcing, crippling help, and the driving force for neat cable standards. :)
HaRuMaN - CAD work and design help.
yotsuya - for the constant heckling.
Jarrett - the basis of the CP design (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960)
SpaceHedgehog - For help with his paint process
CraftyMech - for his SLG Mini (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html), and a ton of tech support
Lucian045 - for printing my artwork (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html), and providing art samples and advice.
EMDB - for the help with the castors (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130690.msg1340037.html#msg1340037)
blind_dado - for the inspiration with the Griffin PowerMate
OldTymeToys - Custom keychain work (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,97793.html)
Also HUGE shout out to the fine folks at Paradise Arcade, GroovyGameGear, ArcadeShop.de, and Ultimarc for dealing with my orders, special requests and constant barrage of questions. As well a whole bunch more local Calgary vendors, and small parts vendors around the world. Its crazy to think/say but this build wouldn’t have been what it is without parts from Germany, Asia, the U.K. all over the US, Canada, and the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
Everyone i’ve missed, (you know who you are), that provided insight, inspiration, and tips. As well as those of you who follow this thread. Extra special shoutout to those of you who have the email notifications going, (sorry for the 2am updates, haha :D )
This build was made possible with the inspiration from the following other builds. Check them out:
Nephasth - Two-Headed Beast (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.0.html)
edekoning - Magneto (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119175.0/all.html)
SpaceHedgehog - R-Pod MkII Racing Simulator (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138146.0.html)
blind_dado - Arcade Odyssey (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,89624.msg942128.html)
mcseforsale - The Blue Pill (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117977.msg1250249.html)
EMDB - Project RetroCade (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130690.0.html)
Complete Flickr Gallery (Over 500 photos!)
Chance's Arcade (https://www.flickr.com/photos/chancekj/sets/72157636572579013/)
Side Panel CAD/PDF Download
CLICK HERE (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385)
2017 Edit: I have updated the download package to include a 1-to-1 scale PDF document for better printing on large format printers.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/15754184395_6973ce28f9_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/15434176448_4bdb181eba_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15069101363_e821572006_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/15503083188_ebaa8bc70c_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/15503265797_98665925b3_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7543/16179907945_8ab0449665_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/15557548704_d6bac83ecd_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7529/15992600760_65140b2449_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/15993747319_f6a0a6905b_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7528/15992633660_e9d00d86ab_c.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8565/15993701879_0a63a759cb_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7506/15993969447_73e3fccd3e_c.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8635/16192621535_ea40e0477e_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14204111835_f0e1fd808b_c.jpg)
Vandal Switch Source
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/737142 (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/737142)
Molex Part Numbers
Molex Micro-Fit 3.0™
43645-0200 - 2 circuit Male
43640-0201 - 2 circuit Female
43025-0400 - 4 circuit Male
43020-0401 - 4 circuit Female
43025-0600 - 6 circuit Male
43020-0601 - 6 circuit Female
43025-0800 - 8 circuit Male
43020-0801 - 8 circuit Female
43030-0007 - Female pins
43031-0007 - Male pins
2.54mm Pitch SL™ Crimp Housing
22-55-2101 - 10 Circuit
22-55-2201 - 20 Circuit
22-55-2321 - 32 Circuit
16-02-1125 - SL™ Crimp terminals
Begin Original Post:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, after drooling over some of the custom cabs here for a couple weeks i've decided to
I've always had this sick love for the Simpsons arcade 4-player. Even tried to track one down a few times over the last decade. However now that i've officially become debt free I feel it's my duty to do the only sensible thing, and that is to load my credit card back up with arcade parts and wood screws! This all became really serious a couple weeks ago when i saw an ad online for the new Xarcade prebuilt units. I posted a link to their site on facebook and sure enough a number of my friends made drooling sounds as they read their news feed. A buddy of mine made a joke about building one in his shop instead of paying $2500 for something cut out of the back of a comic book. That got me thinking, and well... here we are now...
I tend to do things with a little too much ambition some times, and it either goes down in a blaze of glory like a fighter plane, or goes down in a blaze of glory like the Hindenburg, (i'm working on my methods...). I've outlined a few ideas that i wouldn't mind to
Controls: IL Convex, 2 ball top US360's, 2 ball top j-sticks, U-Track pearl Trackball.
TV: 32" Toshiba 32L1350U (based on viewing angle and design of stock bezel)
Computer: MacMini(early 2009) boot camp'd into Windows 7, (Powerful, small, Energy efficient, collecting dust in my office.)
Cabinet: Wide body, low profile LCD design. 4 player CP
Electronics: PA Lono2, PacLED64 (2), IL RGB-LEDs, Spare PSU for Cab lights etc, Logitech LS21 speakers (Cheap, hackable :) )
Design Goals:
-3/4 Cabinet Birch.
-LED light in a
-LED backlight for the marquee.
-Working 4-player coin drawer. Matching color return buttons, theme logo vinyl graphic.
-Chassis mounted Headphone jack I/O plate with Griffin PowerMate volume control and USB, located on front of the CP.
-2.1 audio system (logitech LS21).
-Themed Arcade Tokens and key chain.
-Top cabinet ventilation. Going for a clean look, so i'll hide them up top.
-Clean and organized CP wire job. Custom black wire harness.
-IL Concave RGB/LED buttons (black tops, lit rings) (As seen on the Two-Headed Beast)
-Molex QD on all LED harnesses (Also thanks to Nephasth (you bastard, thanks for the expensive ideas... ;) )
-wire coin buttons and coin slots to both add credits
-Hammered Black diamond plate aluminum kick plate, (might skip this, depending on the finished product)
-
-Maximus Arcade Frontend with custom GUI skin.
-Removable CP module. Bolts, washers and clamping knobs to make Cab/CP separation easy/painless,
Control Panel:
-Modified from jarrett's "Space Paranoids" 4-Player design.
-4 player controls, P1/2 8-button, P3/4 4-button. 8way sticks, recessed trackball.
-4 Start/Coin button sets,
-MAME master control buttons: Pause, Menu, Exit, Aux,
-no bolts or plates shown on surface.
-3 button power I/O on the back overhang. One latching for master power, then one momentary each for TV and Mac.
Game list (Must Have's):
-Pac-Man
-The Simpsons
-TMNT
-GTA2 (PC or PS1)
-Donkey Kong
-1943 Series
-Bubble Bobble
-Tetris
-Frogger
-Doom (PC)
-Bomberman
-Metal Slug Series
-Mortal Kombat Series
-Super Mario (NES)
-Super Mario 3 (NES)
-Super Mario (SNES)
-TLOZ: Link to the Past (SNES)
-Many, Many more...
Design steps:
1. Spousal approval (CHECK!)
2. Planning, sourcing, materials (CHECK!)
3. Finalize Cab design (CHECK!)
4. Mass purchase of materials/tools (CHECK!)
5. Built the Cab at the shop (CHECK!)
6. Paint the Cab (CHECK!)
7. Front End design and Software configuration (CHECK!)
8. Move the Cab to my place for component/controls installation and CP build. (CHECK!)
9. Software configuration (CHECK!)
10. Beer & Video games. (Coming Soon!)
Theme and Artwork.
The overall theme information is found here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1402792.html#msg1402792)
The Finished artwork can be seen here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1411338.html#msg1411338)
Current Roadblocks: 2014.Nov.09
1. NONE!
Well, I hope you'll all enjoy the horrible mess that i'm about to make. Hopefully i'll be able to get some tips and tricks along the way and contribute back to this place at least something since i've received so much great advice just reading about your builds thus far. Well, that and in hopes you'll bring solutions to me instead of me having to spend hours more using the search function on the site! ;D
Post by: yotsuya on October 15, 2013, 01:04:13 am
(http://www.historyinanhour.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Hindenburg-disaster.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 15, 2013, 01:05:22 am
:lol
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 15, 2013, 02:48:41 am
The underlaying plans I desecrated in iOS are not mine, Credit for those go to user Ionos at The OCAU (http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1007968) . I just needed something to sketch to when i hit the pencil to the vellum. I've got a link someplace on my iPad...
Of course the original design of the CP comes from jarrett's "Space Paranoids". Don't really know why, but i just love that shape for a CP.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/10285715155_c0448b9d6a_c.jpg) (http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2818/10285524596_4b03ed25b1_c.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/10285656083_f211794e44_c.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/10285656083_f211794e44_c.jpg)
Side note: I've discovered it IS incredibly hard to handwrite on an iPad. I always thought my customers were just bad at signing off on their repairs when i worked at Apple...
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag137/nelsonmonty/themoreyouknowshootingstar_zps9ddf9000.gif)
Post by: PL1 on October 15, 2013, 03:17:17 am
Hopefully you can come up with a good sideart theme so you don't leave a barren Black Mountain Side on your cab.
Just keep your spirits up no matter How Many More Times you have to revise your plans.
There will be Good Times Bad Times, but Your Time is Gonna Come unless there is a Communication Breakdown that leaves you so Dazed and Confused that you can't finish the build.
For the light in the drawer, consider using a roller microswitch (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049719) that engages with the back right or back left side.
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2110710w345.jpg)
Scott
P.S. For those wondering about the content of this post :dizzy:, click here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Led_Zeppelin_%28album%29#Track_listing).
(http://www.megamusiclyrics.com/album_covers/led_zeppelin_album_cover.jpg)
Post by: jdbailey1206 on October 15, 2013, 07:16:01 am
Design steps:
1. Spousal approval (CHECK!)
Spousal approval...Pure gold! By the way...No cupholders? I KID! I kid! :lol
Post by: Rick on October 15, 2013, 08:28:13 am
Doodles
If you keep up with the doodles as plans, then you are certainly well on your way! I'm excited to be watching this build.
<AJ>Subscribed.</AJ>
Rick
Post by: yotsuya on October 15, 2013, 10:40:22 am
Post by: mcseforsale on October 15, 2013, 01:13:26 pm
AJ
(notice I'm posting above you... >:D )
Doodles
If you keep up with the doodles as plans, then you are certainly well on your way! I'm excited to be watching this build.
<AJ>Subscribed.</AJ>
Rick
Post by: jdbailey1206 on October 15, 2013, 01:27:49 pm
Post by: yotsuya on October 15, 2013, 01:42:20 pm
Post by: mcseforsale on October 15, 2013, 01:47:06 pm
That CP shape is known affectionately in some circles as 'The Aircraft Carrier'.
LOL, yeah, but when you have a 32" LCD, there's a lot of real-estate to cover. :bump
AJ
Post by: Nephasth on October 15, 2013, 01:58:57 pm
-IL Concave RGB/LED buttons (black tops, lit rings) (As seen on the Two-Headed Beast)
-Molex QD on all LED harnesses (Also thanks to Nephasth (you bastard, thanks for the expensive ideas... ;) )
Glad the Beast can still be a source of inspiration! I can help you out with lowering the cost on the Molex parts. PM coming your way. :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 15, 2013, 03:04:38 pm
Hopefully you can come up with a good sideart theme so you don't leave a barren Black Mountain Side on your cab.
For the light in the drawer, consider using a roller microswitch (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049719) that engages with the back right or back left side.
P.S. For those wondering about the content of this post :dizzy:, click here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Led_Zeppelin_%28album%29#Track_listing).
Ok, A, Yes, I have a plan for the side art but thats under wraps unless i change my mind. I have a weird idea about a Hindenburg theme now... (joking). Plans call for a laminated wood surface to aid in the vinyl application and reduce the amount of paint fumes that would inevitably kill the few remaining braincells i have left.
2, That switch is a magnificent idea! I'll wire it up like a fridge door.
and D, the Led Zep jokes, you have no idea how funny that is to me. (Big fan)...
Spousal approval...Pure gold! By the way...No cupholders? I KID! I kid! :lolIt had crossed my mind a few times. i just keep thinking back to all those cases of liquid damage i dealt with at Apple. Tragic stuff...
I'm trying to figure out what Scott does for a living.
...i honestly had something funny to say here last night. it has escaped me.
That CP shape is known affectionately in some circles as 'The Aircraft Carrier'.
Really? I think it looks more like the bridge of an oil tanker... http://richard-seaman.com/Travel/Turkey/Istanbul/BosporusOilTanker.jpg (http://richard-seaman.com/Travel/Turkey/Istanbul/BosporusOilTanker.jpg)
Glad the Beast can still be a source of inspiration! I can help you out with lowering the cost on the Molex parts. PM coming your way. :cheers:
:applaud: Thats a win. Replied!
This place moves fast...
Now, ethical question: Looking at all these nice bartops that are being CnC'd is it a sin if i forgo most of the standard fabrication of the cab and have the technical bits plotted out on a local woodworkers CnC?
Post by: Nephasth on October 15, 2013, 03:15:39 pm
Now, ethical question: Looking at all these nice bartops that are being CnC'd is it a sin if i forgo most of the standard fabrication of the cab and have the technical bits plotted out on a local woodworkers CnC?
If you have the resources... Use them!
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 15, 2013, 03:27:42 pm
I'm gonna stop into a place here in Calgary that specializes in CnC. Get a quote.
I figure it could be a big time saver and as well give a more "Pro" look and feel compared to the wobbly "Made by Chancetm" esthetic.
Post by: kahlid74 on October 15, 2013, 04:03:07 pm
Post by: yotsuya on October 15, 2013, 04:08:47 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 15, 2013, 04:25:39 pm
That's a lot of buttons.
Agreed, but there is a method to my madness. That and you'll notice the blatant omission of the ubiquitous spinner, dedicated 4-way and buttons. I have this thing with looking back on projects and going "F$&@, I should have built that in..." So it's likely the previously mentioned spinner might make an appearance.
You might want to check with HaRuMaN on that aircraft carrier. I think he might be able to help.Yeah, I saw that in another thread. I have a few things I need to talk to him about if this quote for CnC pans out...
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 15, 2013, 10:05:38 pm
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3326/3455225949_5ffa96e56d_z.jpg)
Took a trip to a couple of places to get wood today. <Insert Strip Club Joke Here>
I've thought about a couple options and i was pondering the pros and cons of each.
-3/4 Cabinet Birch.
Pro, Lighter then MDF,
Con, It would have to involve paint.
-3/4 Melamine with an MDF core.
Pro, no paint required.
con, May not be as light as the super light MDF is. Hard to find.
-Superlight MDF
Pro. Cheap and abundant. Light weight MDF
Con, Paint...
-Melamine with Birch core <---Best option i'm thinking.
Pro, no paint, light, finished surface pre prepped for vinyl wrapping.
Con, Have yet to find a supply in town.
I didn't think castors were so damned expensive! On another note, i did manage to find vents, drawer rails, European hinges, and a few other random bits of hardware that will hopefully over-engineer the thing. Looks like most of the lumber places close at 5, 5:30. so i'll need to plan to leave the office early some time this week. Bad news is my hookup at Futureshop no longer works there, so that means TV at full price. oh well.
Post by: mcseforsale on October 16, 2013, 12:20:48 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 16, 2013, 12:26:53 pm
It's the plywood that's becoming a pain in the ass to track down. Everyone seems to have that crappy particle board laminated with melamine. I've sent a bunch of emails out this morning as well as I've found a couple places to do the CnC work. Once I find the wood I'll finish the design and grab quotes for the CnC.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 02:46:54 am
I've also made a couple trips to my local electronics component store and Home Depot to price out materials, get ideas, etc.
I've priced out the CP parts and electronics. Buttons i want aren't in stock in the quantity i'd like. The coin door i want from HAPP is also out of stock. :cry:
EDIT: I have included a link to download the finished side panel plans in the first post. ...or you could click here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385)
(Notice in an effort to save time i scrapped the plans to draft this by hand as previously stated. So there's the first casualty of my ambition)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/10340823346_cdddcdc196_c.jpg) (http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/10340811855_7f4831cb85_c.jpg)
Hey, if anyone wants to use these for their own cab i'm cool with that. Just don't blame me when the thing explodes on your table saw... :D
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 03:09:33 am
:laugh2:
Post by: PL1 on October 18, 2013, 03:54:04 am
It's almost time for another monthly bump over in the Wiki Discussion (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,30.0) sub-forum. ;D
Scott
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 04:14:10 am
ah well.
Post by: javeryh on October 18, 2013, 09:26:10 am
That's a lot of buttons.
I came here to post this. Simple is always better, IMO. It's OK to not be able to play every single game known to man. That's why you build cab #2!
I am super jealous of the spouse approval. Someone should write a wiki on how that happens. I'm almost there but I think I'm missing a key piece of information.
1. Come up with awesome idea to build arcade cabinet
2. Tell wife
3. ???
4. Everyone is happy!
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 10:13:26 am
First, why do people seem to criticize the button count. I mean it's not like I'm making a 4-player 8 button CP with Pin controls, dedicated 4-way stick and spinner with buttons. Hell, my games list is only 71 titles long now that I've finished collecting them. Why design interface boards with 72 channels that can be strung together for hundreds? Haha, it's like now that CRT's have become so far antiquated and a few top end epic builds are using LCD's that now you see all the Anti-LCD purists turn to Anti-button evangelists. :)
The Spousal approval thing. It's totally funny that everyone keeps pointing that out. I said "hey hon, look what I wanna do!" And she was like "well that's cool, I'm not gonna play it because it's not something that interests me. But you seem pretty keen on it and it makes you happy." (That's not how the conversation exactly went, but you get the idea). Maybe it helps because were D.I.N.K.'s (dual income no kids) just entering our 30's. Oh well. :dunno
Post by: javeryh on October 18, 2013, 10:23:48 am
Post by: yotsuya on October 18, 2013, 10:32:21 am
I've just found that more buttons leads to more confusion - the less clutter on a CP the more people seem to enjoy it. My first cabinet tried to "do everything" and it led to 500 questions every time I had people over to play. My DK gets played a ton more and no one really ever asks me how it works other than how to switch games. Of course, it only has a 4-way and one action button so it's not that tough to figure out but still. The DK has about 30 games and the other cab had about 300 so you would think that the cab with more games would be played more but it just didn't (so I got rid of it). I don't know - there's no right answer but I was just sharing my own experience.
***slow 80s clap***
Most of us that are "Anti-button evangelists" speak from practial experience.
What kind of coin door are you looking for? I have a brand new one I don't need that I was thinking of offering for sale.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 10:45:14 am
Mmmm, coin door. http://na.suzohapp.com/amusement_products/coin_doors/40-0946-20 (http://na.suzohapp.com/amusement_products/coin_doors/40-0946-20)
Post by: PL1 on October 18, 2013, 11:05:35 am
The second option on that page matches with the link you posted -- PM Divemaster127 if you want to confirm.
Since this is bigger than a flat rate box, I'd definitely suggest that you not order direct from Happ.
Scott
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 12:52:21 pm
That's awesome, thanks! I tried doing a search online and couldn't seem to find any other vendors with it.
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 18, 2013, 07:02:14 pm
What do you need? :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 07:03:41 pm
Post by: yotsuya on October 18, 2013, 07:15:59 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 07:18:15 pm
Naw, I don't have that door.
Damn,
Looks like I'll have to have it shipped to some family in the US and have them bring it up in November.
Hey thanks anyways! :)
Post by: yotsuya on October 18, 2013, 07:33:28 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2013, 07:40:52 pm
No problem. I'm still working on that other thing we discussed.
(http://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/paul_newman.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 19, 2013, 04:08:04 pm
Just placed my order for:
-2 x J-Stik Ball-Top
-4 x Joystick Mounting Kits (5mm)
-2 x PacLED64 Advanced LED Controller.
-1 x U-TRAK FlushMount Arcade Trackball. (U-Trak Pearl with USB2 + Cable)
-1 x U-Trak RGB LED Illumination Kit
-2 x UltraStik 360 Ball Top with USB cable
-4 x UltraStik 360 Long Handle Shaft. (Ball top)
...my credit card just started to singe the countertop a little. :dizzy:
Just ordered the Speakers on Walmart's website too. Figured it would be better then trying to race around the city and look for them at a dozen different stores.
Next up: BUTTONS!
(and a small Myocardial infarction)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 19, 2013, 09:29:21 pm
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3785/10371903125_2b5015cc45.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 19, 2013, 09:59:05 pm
Picked up the TV today, and the slim wall bracket. I thought about just bolting the TV in there, but i wanted a clean look and easy removal.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2820/10372246294_b2df056d5c_z.jpg)
Oh, found a place to buy castors.
LOTS of castors.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5525/10372138125_6d74fdaf5b_z.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 21, 2013, 07:39:30 pm
<Insert Evil Laugh Here>
Post by: yotsuya on October 21, 2013, 07:57:46 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 21, 2013, 08:07:12 pm
This can only end in tears.
:laugh2:
Trust me, this will be cool. More updates coming soon folks...
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 22, 2013, 12:26:40 am
First, the important part: Buttons. Susan was a HUGE help over at Paradise Arcade. I asked a metric ton of questions and she was kind enough to put up with me. Like seriously. Just awesome. The button/LED order has been made, and with the exception of a few building materials i've gotten all the huge purchases out of the way. This order included all the buttons, RGB LED's for everything, some new ball tops and a few random small things i needed.
Again, Susan if you're reading this, thanks for putting up with my crap!
Also, the t-moulding samples i ordered have arrived. They all look pretty good except the standard black one i asked for. Its the one i was mainly looking at and it's the wrong size. Oh well. The translucent one gives me an idea though.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3683/10415198635_69256d2c83_z.jpg)
Lee (HaRuMaN) has been helping me with some design issues. Preparing the complex bits for me in a CAD file that I can take to a CnC to be milled. I'm loving what he's done so far. He's also someone who needs to be given a medal for putting up with me. ;D
Here's a rough mockup so far
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2825/10415304026_e5d75ecd5a_c.jpg)
Now, on to the cool bit. Late last night I was awake and trying to figure out how I was gonna solve the problem of lighting the joysticks. I didn't want to use LED ball tops, (personally i think those look goofy). And as stated before i'm a huge fan of Nephasth's Two-Headed Beast, but i don't have the luxury of popping a layer of acrylic between my CP top and the joystick plate. Then it hit me, i have 3/4" of depth to work with! So, mind the crude drawings i made at 4am last night but here's what i have in mind:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/10400908754_6f3c6a6b28_c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3785/10415207385_82fc4a4982_c.jpg)
Lee's working on the design and building it into the CP. I've ordered a foot of the acrylic tube, the plans call for 1/2" inserts in each joystick. and i figure if i rough them up with a wire brush i'll be able to experiment with the amount of light they give off. More on this later.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2856/10415209295_f89ce4646d_z.jpg)
Post by: yotsuya on October 22, 2013, 12:29:30 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 22, 2013, 12:31:47 am
Before you spend too much on that translucent t-molding, let me just state that previous posters have proven over the years that it probably won't do what you think it will do. Maybe you can figure something out, but it doesn't work with light the way you think it will.
Yeah, don't worry, i won't be buying it in bulk any time soon.
the Gold and Chrome pieces are totally clear under the metallic layer...
Post by: yotsuya on October 22, 2013, 12:35:06 am
Someone should make white black-light reactive t-molding. That might be cool.
Post by: BadMouth on October 22, 2013, 11:29:20 am
Why did I just buy a foot of 1-1/2" clear acrylic pipe....
That is probably cause. The police will raid your house and shoot you while you sleep.
Quote
The translucent one gives me an idea though
If you're thinking about illuminating, it doesn't work that great.
The t-molding doesn't diffuse the light at all.
If you scuff the crap out of it and use EL tape under both sides, it might give you the look that nobody has been able to achieve.
Experiment with your sample before sinking any money into the idea. (if that was your idea)
Post by: Nephasth on October 22, 2013, 12:53:22 pm
Post by: CaptainMarvel on October 22, 2013, 12:58:05 pm
???
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 22, 2013, 01:14:00 pm
Yeah. I wasn't planning in buying that stuff in bulk at all. Good to know others have tried to light it. I was thinking of testing with a slot cutting bit that dug a channel under the t slot. Then I'd run one of those 5m LED light strips you see on eBay thru the channel. I wasn't going to use it on this Cab. It was just a thought. :)
From where can/does one request/order t-molding samples?Tmoulding.com
;D
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 22, 2013, 01:19:25 pm
Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!
Thanks! Inspiration came from your machine. Also if it's a miserable failure I'll place the complete weight of blame on you as well. :laugh:
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 02:41:10 am
Looks like the CAD work is done. Lee (HaRuMaN) has been instrumental in helping me get the physical design of the CP and Cab walls down. As soon as i get those plans from him i'll be able to get a couple quotes for CnC from a few places in town.
We've managed to get the P1-P2 button layout down to a science, and it only took 4 tries. Lee was awesome, he knew exactly what i was thinking when i suggested changes, (priceless thing to have for a long distance collaboration on a project). The button layout is a bit extreme and as non-traditional as can be. But it fits not only my hand well, but also the hands of a few big time gamers that i work with at my office. Thats a win.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2827/10435181693_812af6f834_z.jpg)
Design work for the LED Joystick lighting is done. Acrylic and LEDs have been bought and shipped. Cross your fingers that this will work folks.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/10435006945_1d607bfb74_z.jpg)
To find/buy/do still:
-GET power supply for 12v (marquee, coin door, drawer light,)
-GET marquee LED strip
-GET marquee retainer
-GET drawer parts and electronics
-GET order speaker grills
-GET LEDs lights for coin door.
-GET castors
-GET Kickplate
-Find quick disconnect supplier
-Cab/marquee artwork printed
More to come...
Post by: BadMouth on October 23, 2013, 09:57:45 am
The button layout is a bit extreme and as non-traditional as can be.
Looks like the layout for the arcade stick for the original Xbox.
The bottom and far right buttons were left and right trigger, which I thought made a lot of sense.
The new fight sticks have HP and HK (street fighter layout) as right trigger and right button.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 02:33:43 pm
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/10444465686_d8ee1c6dbd_c.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/10444490025_9afd407e84_z.jpg)
Hey Logitech, wtf was with all the packaging on these speakers? I'd have a better chance breaking into the vault at the Bellagio!
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 23, 2013, 02:34:13 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 02:36:01 pm
:applaud:
Some damn fine work you did there Lee.
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 23, 2013, 02:49:04 pm
:applaud:
Some damn fine work you did there Lee.
Glad to be of service! I can't wait to see that lighting done... :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 02:54:02 pm
I'm looking to replace this board with a couple chassis mounted bits instead.
First, i don't want to modify the board, i'd like to just disconnect it and set it aside. I don't mind messing with the two leads plugged into it, we can strip and re-crimp wire at will.
Loos like the one of the left is power from the amp. and the one on the right is the 3.5mm.
I need help figuring out:
A. What chassis mounted volume knob i should buy to replace this one. (on eBay, with free shipping if possible)
B. What leads to connect this to a 3.5mm chassis mount jack i already have on the way.
C. any other parts i need to pick up.
IF the board has to be sacrificed for the good of the cause thats cool, I just don't want to pooch this all by accident and have to go out and buy another set.
Here's the board:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3704/10444952563_f2d0fa1c87_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/10444796425_a728bbf319_c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/10444760844_bf4de63c70_c.jpg)
Here's the jack i have coming:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5530/10444776736_4833354671.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/10444776776_e18e8e5ecd.jpg)
Ideas?
Post by: Nephasth on October 23, 2013, 03:10:24 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 03:46:07 pm
Post by: zanna5910 on October 23, 2013, 04:27:38 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 04:36:25 pm
Time to make that dream a reality. Make some sawdust... Excited to see some build in this build thread!
Agreed, but I'm patient. I've got a knack for pre planning. Besides I've been waiting on the completion of the CAD for the Cab. Now that that's done I can make a move on the wood bits :)
Proper preparation is the greatest contributing factor to success of ones goals.
Post by: zanna5910 on October 23, 2013, 05:41:03 pm
Time to make that dream a reality. Make some sawdust... Excited to see some build in this build thread!
Agreed, but I'm patient. I've got a knack for pre planning. Besides I've been waiting on the completion of the CAD for the Cab. Now that that's done I can make a move on the wood bits :)
Proper preparation is the greatest contributing factor to success of ones goals.
Your reply is far too logical. :P Just getting excited for you and the build to see it come together.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 05:49:05 pm
Your reply is far too logical. :P Just getting excited for you and the build to see it come together.
You're telling me! I have an update from DHL on my phone saying my order from Ultimarc has arrived at my local sort facility! Looks like half my parts come in tomorrow!!
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 23, 2013, 07:02:15 pm
-2 x J-Stik Ball-Top
-4 x Joystick Mounting Kits (5mm)
-2 x PacLED64 Advanced LED Controller.
-1 x U-TRAK FlushMount Arcade Trackball. (U-Trak Pearl with USB2 + Cable)
-1 x U-Trak RGB LED Illumination Kit
-2 x UltraStik 360 Ball Top with USB cable
-4 x UltraStik 360 Long Handle Shaft. (Ball top)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/10448468983_f555ec475a_c.jpg)
I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's. Anyone else do that with theirs?
Post by: Nephasth on October 23, 2013, 07:52:30 pm
I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's. Anyone else do that with theirs?
Stiff springs are a must for the U360s IMO.
Post by: jdbailey1206 on October 24, 2013, 11:07:35 am
I'm wondering if i shouldn't have gotten stronger springs and restrictor plates for these 360's. Anyone else do that with theirs?
Stiff springs are a must for the U360s IMO.
It definitely feels better with the stiff springs. I would stay away from the octagonal restrictor plate. It doesn't give you a far enough throw and tends to feel extremely restrictive when playing most games. I found its easier just to have a 4-8 way and change as needed.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 24, 2013, 11:34:43 am
Thanks guys.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 25, 2013, 03:28:40 pm
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 25, 2013, 03:29:44 pm
Just a thought on my joystick light design, Dust washer, is it really a big problem if I skip them? Or should I add a couple washers around the bolts of the mounting plates to get clearance to put them under the CP and glue my acrylic inserts in place? (well I was gonna glue them anyways)
Get some clear dust washers... problem solved.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 25, 2013, 03:37:34 pm
I could rig up a noiseless fan system that pushes air under them to make them levitate, and also keep my hand cool.... Naaaa. :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2013, 03:48:58 am
Had a buddy who's way more talented with a soldering iron remove the volume switch and hack in some new 1' leads. we took the time to record the resistance of the old volume wheel. I just need to figure out the right chassis mounted replacement for it and wire it up. if anyone would like to suggest a part number from a supplier that would be great. For i do not know such things and this is venturing into the unknown for me.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/10488393766_d05b099586_c.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/10488384995_f1784cdf3d_z.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/10488444504_b11bdbe8d8_z.jpg)
My button/RGB LED order shipped today. Awesome.
A few smaller things i still need to get. Speaker grills, power supply, random hardware bits, marquee holder. We're getting there.
...Picked up this for a crazy experiment I want to do with the CP:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5473/10488541365_cd659d0a96_z.jpg)
Post by: Hockeyboy on October 26, 2013, 07:23:39 am
Post by: Nephasth on October 26, 2013, 11:19:41 am
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299034)
Based on your ohm readings, you'll probably want to find a dual gang 50K ohm pot with an audio taper. And when you go to connect the new pot, connect its ground pins from both gangs together (since your new pot will likely have 6 pins).
Post by: AlienInferno on October 26, 2013, 03:49:14 pm
Second would be about the clear dust washers and your artwork. How are you planning on building your CP? Most I've seen that use artwork have it underneath a layer of plexiglass. Shouldn't have to worry about the artwork getting scratched then.
Looking at that volume pot, and following the traces, I'm assuming it's a dual gang pot. Meaning it's two pots in one. One for the headphones, and one for the speakers. I'm assuming it's using a shared ground between both.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299034)
Based on your ohm readings, you'll probably want to find a dual gang 50K ohm pot with an audio taper. And when you go to connect the new pot, connect its ground pins from both gangs together (since your new pot will likely have 6 pins).
This is aimed more at Nephasth but from my understanding of dual gang pots is that they are for stereo output. One side controls the left channel, one controls the right. I don't remember exactly how my setup was but I'm guessing it goes something like: audio source (ie sound card) > potentiometer > headphone jack > output (speakers). That way the one dual gang pot would be controlling both channels for both the headphones and speakers. Now if it was a mono signal you may be right.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2013, 03:55:34 pm
Second would be about the clear dust washers and your artwork. How are you planning on building your CP? Most I've seen that use artwork have it underneath a layer of plexiglass. Shouldn't have to worry about the artwork getting scratched then.
Design hadn't called for a layer of plexi. Just the 3/4" with the vinyl print stuck on top.
I was thinking of gluing my lighting inserts in place, then using washers on the screws of the joystick mounting plate to raise it past the dust washer height and pit them between the plate and the wood. But I mean, is it really bad if I just skip them all together ?
Post by: Nephasth on October 26, 2013, 03:57:44 pm
This is aimed more at Nephasth but from my understanding of dual gang pots is that they are for stereo output. One side controls the left channel, one controls the right. I don't remember exactly how my setup was but I'm guessing it goes something like: audio source (ie sound card) > potentiometer > headphone jack > output (speakers). That way the one dual gang pot would be controlling both channels for both the headphones and speakers. Now if it was a mono signal you may be right.
Good catch. Hell of a brain fart... Looking at the pics again it looks like it goes audio source > headphone jack > potentiometer > speakers.
Post by: Nephasth on October 26, 2013, 04:08:21 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2013, 05:09:34 pm
Also dustwashers, I'm starting to think for the potential of hand pinching, I might mount some clear ones. JLF and JLW have the same shaft size correct? If so, I like these:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Joysticks-Washer-JLF-clear_1032.html (http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Joysticks-Washer-JLF-clear_1032.html)
Those should work on my 360's and j-sticks correct? Are this available for order stateside? I can't seem to find them anywhere else but here.
Post by: PL1 on October 26, 2013, 05:41:49 pm
Another option is Justin at TEFightStands -- his B/S/T thread for custom dust washers is here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121920.0.html).
(http://d111vui60acwyt.cloudfront.net/product_photos/1514580/_23304_large.jpg)
Scott
Post by: lcmgadgets on October 26, 2013, 05:49:53 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2013, 05:57:00 pm
On this side of the pond, you can get clear JLF washers here (http://www.canadianjoysticks.com/sanwa-denshi-jlf-cd-c-clear-shaft-guard-and-dust-cover/) or here (http://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-cd-clear-shaft-matching-dustwasher-set/).
What about Art's Hobbies? I mean, if i gotta put something on there then i might as well make something custom etched and cool. Plus these are laser cut and don't have any marks from the injection moulding that make the part look cheesy or cheap. Anyone had experience with this guy?
Just tuned in on this 1. Go man, go! :cheers:
Haha, thanks man :)
Post by: Nephasth on October 26, 2013, 06:33:16 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2013, 06:35:00 pm
If you want etched dust washers, just go to a local trophy shop. They should have a laser engraver that can do any design you can think of. And they should have different thicknesses of acrylic on hand.
Thought crossed my mind, but i'm also looking at how clean and simple the physical washer looks from Art's.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2013, 07:30:14 pm
These:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/10501864185_da85e00078_o.jpg)
With this:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/10501863386_9e94cc7b6c_z.jpg)
Post by: PL1 on October 26, 2013, 08:01:50 pm
Consider moving the logo to the 6 o'clock position and rotating it 90 degrees each step as you add three more logos at 9, 12 and 3 -- whichever way it turns the logo closest to you is always upright.
Alternate version, move the logo to the 12 o'clock and repeat the process -- logo on the side of the washer away from you is always upright.
Scott
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2013, 08:16:14 pm
You may want to allow for the fact that the washer will turn easily.
Consider moving the logo to the 6 o'clock position and rotating it 90 degrees each step as you add three more logos at 9, 12 and 3 -- whichever way it turns the logo closest to you is always upright.
Alternate version, move the logo to the 12 o'clock and repeat the process -- logo on the side of the washer away from you is always upright.
Scott
Seriously, get the hell out of my head...
I've been playing with a version of it with two, three, and four logos, but they all just looked too busy. I eventually settled on just a single one that you see above. i'm not gonna really mind if they rotate around. My obsessive compulsive self will just align them each time i'm done playing :D.
No word of a lie, i had a variation that looks AWESOME, but strangely familiar. I was just about to finalize it when i realized it was familiar because it was the exact same font, size, and look of the iOS 7 lock screen numbers. :lol
(http://www.technibility.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/ios7bypass.png)
I was like "$hit!" and promptly opened a browser window to DaFont.com.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 29, 2013, 12:33:20 am
Today I received a wonderful email about the planned artwork for my Cab. Thats all i'm really going to say because i'm still keeping this a secret.
In other news i spent like an hour at MRO (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/) picking out some of the last few cab bits as far as power supplies and electrics goes. We think we've ordered to proper potentiometer to replace the volume control on the speaker breakout. It's gonna take 2-3 weeks before it gets here tho.
Parts list from todays shopping trip:
-12v power supply and power cord.
-2x Terminal blocks
-#6 Spade terminal crimp on connectors
-Volume knobs (only need one, and it will go to 11)
-20ft of dual line 18 gauge wire.
-4 black 120mm fan grills (On Order)
-Potentiometer (On Order)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2822/10549636105_37c615f4af_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5495/10549897253_f141ceb040_z.jpg) <---Oooo Shiny!
I gotta say, the folks at MRO (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/) are amazing. If you are in the Calgary Area, or just want to find someone who really knows his stuff call them up and ask for Steve Shepherd.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 29, 2013, 01:12:37 am
Not bad for the first time i've ever done this. I mean, I wouldn't get me to wire a stealth bomber just yet.
...YET.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7395/10551122585_aa100df251_z.jpg)
Oh, Lesson #12: Don't keep Nibs next to the red spade connectors. Accidents happen.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2846/10551118255_35d95a56cf_z.jpg)
Post by: mcseforsale on October 29, 2013, 11:02:05 am
AJ
Post by: TKW4rr10r on October 29, 2013, 11:35:01 am
That's a very unique button layout, as well. I just can't wrap my head around how/what you would be playing with that :lol
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 29, 2013, 12:30:01 pm
...That's a very unique button layout, as well. I just can't wrap my head around how/what you would be playing with that :lol
GTA 2.
Nuf' Said.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 29, 2013, 12:32:13 pm
Post by: Bambam1963 on October 29, 2013, 08:01:11 pm
:cheers:
(http://www.historyinanhour.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Hindenburg-disaster.jpg)
Too funny :laugh2:
Post by: Bambam1963 on October 29, 2013, 08:09:08 pm
Ok, proper update time.
... quote shortened per request ... saint
Go big or go home...and it doesn't look like your going home ;-)
Post by: Bambam1963 on October 29, 2013, 08:11:42 pm
OOoooo, Updates!
... quote shortened per request ... saint
Calgary. Oh how I miss thee. My favourite city. Stuck in Ottawa :-(
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 30, 2013, 04:28:02 am
In other news none of my Molex parts have shown up yet... :dunno ...wtf.
Um, Oh! Positive news. Ordered my marquee light and some PCB standoffs from GGG tonight. Also ordered my tokens, and a couple small finishing touches for the theme.
I get my hands on my coin door on the 11th. the family i shipped it too will be coming up from Washington to hand deliver it. Apparently the thing weighs 13lbs!
Oh and i THINK i found a vinyl printer, There's one i have my eye on because the girlfriend works with them through her work so that might be a win. Speaking of which, i think i've secured an amazing win for the cab artwork. I don't want to give it away, but the fact that he returned my email saying he was down for helping was awesome! Lets hope this pans out. Once i've secured that then maybe i'll let the cat out of the bag on the theme. ;D
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 31, 2013, 01:39:29 am
...My acrylic tube has arrived, (no thanks to USPS and Canada Post. :censored: ).
Other parts also in the mail today:
-Diamond plate samples (i think i like black)
-Tie downs, (er, whatever they're called.)
-Heat shrink (for isolating the pushbutton colours)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2820/10586288336_6c2f4c1396_z.jpg)
Now for some more bad news. The place i had high hopes to do the CnC work for me just came back with a $920 quote to mill my PC top and cab sides. :applaud:. Nope.
So now i'm on the hunt for a new CnC in town if they can't justify why the plywood and time on the table would cost me so bloody much. There are a dozen CnC's in town by my math. I'll find one or do it the old fashion way.
Now, what to do with these extra metal samples. Well, i had grabbed a couple extra flat black metal ones in hopes to use one as the mounting plate for the I/O i'm putting on the front of the CP. As you can see by the knob in the picture, adding a 3.5mm port and USB should fit. And yes, the knob will "go to 11" as previously stated.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2815/10586533133_7be78fea12_z.jpg)
I have a crap-ton of shipments coming in from all over the US, Europe and Asia for random parts. I love eBay. The Coin door has safely arrived in the hands of my American kin. I'll have to wait to get that from them on Veteran's Day. But in the mean time I have a foot of this acrylic pipe so i said, "hey what the hell, lets proof-of-concept up this b!tch!" I wanna thank Ultimarc for not only shipping my sticks in these boxes, but for providing just the right size for my prototype! This will work as long as the CP top is built correctly. I know now that i'm also going to want to defuse the light in the tube for sure. i'm thinking grabbing some steel wool or a small wire brush and scuffing the insert up, i've got enough of it i can do a few tests. I'm going to have to paint the joystick plate gloss black too. This is a bad picture, but trust me it was badass in person.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3722/10586286746_263dd47e18_z.jpg)
And i know what you're all saying: "This build sucks! Where's the sawdust!" Well, to that i say "SHUDAP!" i'm getting there.
Well in lieu of that i present to you my dog. In a shark suit. Taunting my fish. Ha!
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3783/10586391054_33923ce0c1_z.jpg)
(not quite sure why she doesn't get annoyed when we do stuff like this to her.)
Post by: Rick on October 31, 2013, 06:15:29 am
And i know what you're all saying: "This build sucks! Where's the sawdust!" Well, to that i say "SHUDAP!" i'm getting there.
I feel your pain! ;)
Looking good so far. Can't wait for more.
Post by: HaRuMaN on October 31, 2013, 09:53:55 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 31, 2013, 10:54:34 am
Post by: yotsuya on October 31, 2013, 12:25:24 pm
That's what I'm going to tell them. It was funny how excited I was right up until the second the PDF loaded on my iPad, and then boom, :dunno I've put out a couple calls for a backup. We'll see where this goes.
Just to put it in perspective, my local CNC guy cut me a new Star Wars cabinet out of MDF for $160.
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 31, 2013, 12:30:09 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 01, 2013, 11:49:59 pm
-36 IL Transparent/Black concave buttons
-4 IL player buttons
-40 IL RGB LED's
-1 RGB LED (to spotlight the coin door) ;D
-4 ball tops
-Lono2 PCB
-Button wrench
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/10618647426_f8f287c081_c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3753/10618643934_590acfe3a0_z.jpg)
A little less exciting, but still quite important: My speaker grills have arrived!
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/10618644156_96ea0bcdb1_z.jpg)
I've started to install the LEDs into the buttons. And I know PA says you don't need to modify the IL buttons for these but I decided I didn't like the wires coming out of the tab holes. To many potentials for the tiny 22 gauge wire to wear and fray. So I did what any self respecting man with power tools does and drilled some holes.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3807/10618646774_b406ecb570_c.jpg)
I've got a lot of work to do now. :laugh:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 02, 2013, 03:43:54 am
I've got a lot of these buttons to do. but i don't seem to see installation instructions for the LEDs anywhere that can answer my question. I know i'm to install the LED packs inside the button under the spring, but there are bare wire ends protruding out from the tops of these LED packs, and the springs are metal.... do i just go out and get a roll of Kapton tape and cover the edges of the circuit board? Has anyone else installed these buttons? I mean, i guess i'm not bridging a circuit that will do any kind of harm or set off any of the LED's. but is this kosher?
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3744/10618880783_dfe786776e_z.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 02, 2013, 07:18:08 am
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/10623953934_1f8e30c63d_c.jpg)
OH! and i wired up the power supply so i could do this and get a sense of accomplishment for staying up all night...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/10623934025_8f07c776e2_c.jpg)
Post by: TKW4rr10r on November 02, 2013, 07:29:40 am
Had the same theme in mind for my 4 player: understated black controls but with RGB ring lights. Was looking at those very buttons or the Seimitsu PS-14-GN-KN:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/seimitsu-pushbuttons/939-seimitsu-ps-14-gn-kn-black.html (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/seimitsu-pushbuttons/939-seimitsu-ps-14-gn-kn-black.html)
You still using two PacLED64 to control everything correct? I'll be in the corner taking notes ;)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 02, 2013, 07:44:54 am
Cannot wait to see this CP come together. Awesome work!...
...You still using two PacLED64 to control everything correct? I'll be in the corner taking notes ;)
Thanks!
Yeah, that's the plan. I figure P3/P1 for one, and P2/P4 for the second. Then little odds and ends for the coin door spot RGB LED, trackball, etc. will be split between them both. I just picked up a 16foot strip of 12v waterproof RGB LEDs with a mini remote. The ubiquitous ones on ebay. But I wanted to find the black strip ones. I'm planning on running them around the back of the cab for glow.
I'm kinda stuck now until more parts come in or I get CnC access. My new crimpers, .187" QD's, and my joystick LEDs are still enroute. ...and where the hell is my Molex order?!?!!
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 02, 2013, 04:06:02 pm
-Are those two my best options?
-Going from a MacMini Display-port to VGA, to the SLG to the VGA on the 32"?
whichever way i go, desoldering the on/off switch and running it to my CP I/O with a little toggle? Thoughts?
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 02, 2013, 06:53:09 pm
First, custom artwork for the coin reject buttons to match the dustwashers. ( still keeping the theme under wraps :) )
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2822/10634295613_9e75e0dc1c_o.png)
Next, in thinking i was trying to solve a problem i didn't realize i probably won't have (say that 5 times fast). I purchased a small chunk of HeatShrink to mask off my buttons from the inevitable colour bleed issue that other Cabs have seen. Then it struck me like a metric ton of bricks: I have a ¾" thick CP that will block most of the light bleed anyway! So a potential waste of money on the heat shrink for now until i can find a use for it (I'm sure i will).
Since then, in case the need does arise for a masking, i needed a plan. I've tried a few different things around the house. but it seems the best could be velcro tape i use for cable management around the house. It was too wide for what i needed so i just split it in half! Its solid, stays put, and infinitely reusable. If i run into the problem we'll have a solution.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/10634113295_35645cfce8_z.jpg)
Now on to the bad news. My attempt to create custom black QD insulators and PCB feet has failed. After 24 hours soaking in Rit dye mix solution not only did the clear nylon insulators turn a clowdy yellow, but the PCB feet didn't take any colour at all. My only other option is to try the stovetop method. Mind you i might just abandon this plan and keep the clear covers and paint the feet black if they stick out. Ah well, Can't win them all.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/10634111085_da7b198ca1_z.jpg)
Post by: Nephasth on November 02, 2013, 08:28:49 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 02, 2013, 08:41:34 pm
Tuck your PCB feet under your boards like this I-PAC. I angled the feet towards the center of the board.
That's so simple. Why didn't I think of that. Haha.
Thanks.
Post by: mcseforsale on November 04, 2013, 02:57:30 pm
AJ
Post by: yotsuya on November 04, 2013, 03:05:49 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 04, 2013, 03:34:57 pm
Black QD insulators and PCB feet? That's the highest level of anal-retentiveness I've ever seen on this board. :cheers:
Nice! ...what do I win?
Rit won't take in nylon unless you boil it in.
AJ
...that would make sense. I'll try it again when I get home. Thanks!! :)
Post by: yotsuya on November 04, 2013, 03:48:37 pm
Nice! ...what do I win?
(http://www.project-vision.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/gold-star.jpg)
Feel free to dye it black when you get home.
*Note: that's why I like Chance - he can take good-natured ribbing and roll with it.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 04, 2013, 07:46:45 pm
...Feel free to dye it black when you get home...
...You'll notice i also reduced it size by 60%. For efficiency sake.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2860/10681027133_63d425298b_o.jpg)
In other news:
BAM!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/10680821516_ffff86f5e4_c.jpg)
More on this, (plus a vicious electrocution), later on our show!
:applaud:
Post by: Brian74 on November 04, 2013, 08:23:42 pm
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 04, 2013, 09:22:20 pm
(Hey! 4 pages, and not a single speck of sawdust action!)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 04, 2013, 11:21:13 pm
OLD
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/10488393766_d05b099586_c.jpg)
New
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5528/10683715064_f1179d0b3e_o.jpg)
Old #1 to New #3,#6
Old #2 to New #2
Old #3 to New #5
Old #4 to New #1
Old #5 to New #4
Correct?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=135116.0;attach=299050;image)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/10683696986_136c1a43c0_o.gif)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 04, 2013, 11:55:07 pm
Meh. :)
Post by: yotsuya on November 05, 2013, 12:01:15 am
Side note: Rit Dye test number two was a failure. Not only did the parts fail to change colour in the boiling water. the bolts embedded in the standoffs expanded in the heat of the boiling water and cracked the plastic. The insulator for the Quick disconnect had no change from the brown cloudy colour it was after the last attempt.
Meh. :)
(http://thehappygoddess.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/snoopyhug.jpg)
Post by: Brian74 on November 05, 2013, 03:32:12 am
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.If I knew how I would :-[
(Hey! 4 pages, and not a single speck of sawdust action!)
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 05, 2013, 03:40:08 am
Code: [Select]
[url=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121467.msg1288591.html][img]http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj561/Xx_Brian74_xX/HEXmarqueeCopy.png[/img][/url]
Post by: PL1 on November 05, 2013, 04:11:00 am
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.If I knew how I would :-[
This sounds familiar . . . maybe because of this old PM. :lol
Brian,
Just noticed that your sig pic isn't linked to your build.
Doing so would allow people to click on the pic to open your build thread.
If you want to add that feature, go into your profile and select Modify Profile - Update Profile.
In the Signature block, add the part in red:
(url=http://build thread here](img]http://Picture link(/img](/url]
Substitute [ for ( and insert link for your build thread. :cheers:
Scott
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 05, 2013, 04:14:01 am
Scott, any input on the wiring up of that potentiometer?
Post by: Brian74 on November 05, 2013, 04:40:48 am
Brian, i just spent the better part of an hour trying to find your build thread. you should add it to your signature.If I knew how I would :-[
This sounds familiar . . . maybe because of this old PM. :lolBrian,
Just noticed that your sig pic isn't linked to your build.
Doing so would allow people to click on the pic to open your build thread.
If you want to add that feature, go into your profile and select Modify Profile - Update Profile.
In the Signature block, add the part in red:
(url=http://build thread here](img]http://Picture link(/img](/url]
Substitute [ for ( and insert link for your build thread. :cheers:
Scott
You got me scott! :-[ Dont you people sleep? I already have over 1.5 hrs in at work. As I type and drive my semi lol
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: Brian74 on November 05, 2013, 04:46:02 am
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: PL1 on November 05, 2013, 05:35:09 am
Dont you people sleep?When I'm not looking up old PMs or drawing diagrams. :P
See, i was nice and collected all the code he needed... :PYou're a gentleman and a scholar, sir. :cheers:
Scott, any input on the wiring up of that potentiometer?Sorry, didn't look too close at that since Neph was helping you with it.
Not sure about the schematic equivalent/pinout of your particular double-gang pot and diagram -- it doesn't quite make sense to me. :dunno
Looking at the pics again it looks like it goes audio source > headphone jack > potentiometer > speakers.Based on that, the schematic should look something like this.
Scott
EDIT: Forgot to include the ground for the headphone jack.
Post by: thomas_surles on November 05, 2013, 09:07:13 am
Post by: Brian74 on November 05, 2013, 09:10:44 am
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 05, 2013, 09:02:36 pm
PARTS!
-Marquee and drawer LED lights
-Various quick disconnects,
-Mini DVI to VGA adaptor (which will plug into my SLG when it arrives!)
-PCB standoffs
-couple sizes of heat shrink
-Blue coin door buttons
-3.5mm headphone jacks, Male
-3.5mm chassis mount headphone jack, Female
Not shown:
-Vinyl sticker logos
-Custom coin reject button labels
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3817/10700076125_fddaa8e489_c.jpg)
The Coin Door has arrived!
Complete with US 25 cent mechs, (which will be adjusted to take tokens or replaced with token mechs). Strangely i only received the keys for the top door. I sent Divemaster a PM, hopefully he'll get back to me soon.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/10700122534_9e9abc1eaa_c.jpg)
I'm gonna be up all night working on this thing getting the logo on, swapping out the reject buttons and running power to the lights. #win.
Post by: AlienInferno on November 05, 2013, 09:47:44 pm
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: thomas_surles on November 05, 2013, 09:57:45 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 06, 2013, 02:39:26 am
So tonight i went in and replaced all the buttons with the blue ones and added custom reject labels. They match the numbers on the dustwashers so you'll know what one to drop a token into if you suck, (i'll be using a lot of tokens). I did learn a few things about this experience. First, HAPP is slowly lowering the quality of its parts. Things that i know once were metal are now plastic, like the bezels around the reject button, the coin med brackets, etc. Looks like the stopped using washers around the coin mech brackets to bolt to the door. I found this out the "fun" way when i went to swap out the third button and noticed the bolt holding the bracket had been installed so tight it was sunk into the plastic. I had to get clever and remove some of the surrounding material so my driver could even get a good grip on the bolt head. When i reattached it after swapping out the button i used a washer to give it a bit more stability. Interestingly enough the washer came out of an extra IKEA anti-tilt kit i got with my DVD towers.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/10703366295_403c821a88_c.jpg)
A couple of other things i noticed with this door. the latch on the lock that holds the upper door needed to be bent into position. the door (when shut and locked) had a decent amount of play in it. That was a simple fix.
I also spent the better part of an hour trying to figure out how to adjust these coin mechs. As soon as my tokens come in this weekend i'm going to figure out what mech i need and i might just sell/trade these US.25's for the ones i need. that way theres no messing about and the machine just takes tokens. Part of my plan for controlling how much each person gets to play on the machine when we have people over is to use the tokens. could be interesting to see who of my friends/family can get the digests scores on games with say like a limit of 4 tokens. I've been playing around with the idea of a switch inside the door that lets me toggle between the use of the coin buttons on the CP, or the coin door slots. More on this when we get to the point where i need to wire it.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/10703424814_92659865ef_c.jpg)
I couldn't stand it just sitting there idle once i had the new buttons installed. I did realized theres a difference between HAPP reject buttons and IL ones. These blue ones pictured are iL. they are darker, and its almost impossible to see the label inside the button if theres no light behind the button. They just feel cheaper then the HAPP buttons i removed. Maybe the day comes and i feel like ripping this thing apart again and i'll replace them with blue HAPP ones. for now i'll just compensate with some super bright LED's. Speaking of lights. the door came with some really crappy bulbs. I'm gonna replace them asap. As you can see in the picture i thought i had wired something wrong, but then i started to troubleshot and realized it was the bulbs. I'm considering wrapping white 12v LED's around the button housing and wiring them to the bulb retainers. I'll use the white bulb retainers you see in the picture as a sort of stress relief from the presses of the wire harness and the door opening and shutting. This is on the list of "To Do's".
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5505/10703364335_716516f7be_c.jpg)
I nailed the wiring harness first try. Not bad for someone with no experience doing this kinda stuff. I left a nice long lead to the power supply. Funny story, With all my advance planning i'm doing i've noticed i forget to check some things. like the fact that terminals on the coin microswiches are .250", not the .187" i had assumed. I'll have to go buy some of those tomorrow. I need a 5 circuit connector to do that part anyways. So no big deal.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/10703440886_6d56d7e1ca_c.jpg)
I've decided what will make this project great in my eyes will be the attention to detail. Matching keychain, custom matching dustwasters, custom coin reject labels, a scanline generator, a real metal serial number plate.... I found a place here in Calgary that actually makes the real deal. No avery labels here. I really like the idea of using a layer of tinted glass over top of the screen instead of a bezel. Maybe try and give it a clean modern look rather then trying to measure to the 32nd of an inch for a black matte boarder at a frame shop.
I still need help wiring that potentiometer. i just want to make sure i have the right idea before i pull out the solder gun and start making a mess. I'm going to wire myself a custom length stereo audio cable using the 3.5mm jacks and chassis mount jack i bought for the I/O.
As suspected, i found a couple more places with CnC tables in town. I'm getting impatient and want to start butchering the corpses of some trees. Soon. If you would have told me 6 weeks ago I would be spending my night wiring a coin door for a home arcade, I would have told you to stop eating paste.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 06, 2013, 02:54:14 am
...Then today when the new adaptor didn't work either I remembered when I set up this TV a couple weeks ago I locked out all the inputs on the TV in the TV menu that I wasn't planning on using. :banghead: #Fail.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 06, 2013, 04:11:32 am
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/10704802506_b1022a7c77_z.jpg)
:D
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2013, 10:02:26 am
Good job so far. I like the wiring on the coin lights.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 06, 2013, 10:42:53 am
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2013, 10:55:44 am
Post by: Yvan256 on November 06, 2013, 03:01:58 pm
I've been playing with potentiometers with my Jukebox, trying to find the right one. I've used a 100k and a 500k, but still am not 100% happy with the volume adjustment. I have a 10k one that should be here today or tomorrow, and I'll try that.
Don't forget that for audio control you need a logarithmic potentiometer.
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2013, 03:50:54 pm
I've been playing with potentiometers with my Jukebox, trying to find the right one. I've used a 100k and a 500k, but still am not 100% happy with the volume adjustment. I have a 10k one that should be here today or tomorrow, and I'll try that.
Don't forget that for audio control you need a logarithmic potentiometer.
Trust me, I know that. I'm just trying to find the one that I think works best. Maybe I need to invest in wooden knobs (https://web.archive.org/web/20060101104135/http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=NOB_C37_C&Category_Code=VOLUME&Product_Count=2).
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 07, 2013, 12:56:13 am
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3748/10720458646_93d05c1d45_z.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2866/10720368655_cf309806b3_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5513/10720458194_981f945521_z.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7420/10720465654_ac7928b484_z.jpg)
...Whatever. I DGAF, the hub looks cooler without the enclosure. And now i have something to use with the extra PCB foot that survived the first round of tests...
Post by: mcseforsale on November 07, 2013, 01:06:46 pm
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/PLBW42.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/PLBW42.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_1378.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/IMG_1378.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_0380.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/IMG_0380.jpg.html)
Seriously, though. Just get a primer for plastic paint and any latex enamel spray and yer good to go.
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 07, 2013, 11:24:26 pm
Got short changed on my Molex parts and only a quarter of my shipment arrived, (Stupid CBSA). I've initiated a backup plan. Doesn't matter anyways because my wire stripper doesn't go down to 24 gauge, and my new fancy wire stripper hasn't come in from Hong Kong yet...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/10736365193_716e711784_c.jpg)
Went to Rona and priced out some plywood! Yes, you read that right. 4 pages in and i'm starting to talk about making some sawdust. no, it's not a joke. found a hot glue gun for under $3! some aluminium duct tape, my grills for the ventilation and a nifty 3AAA/4LED light stick thingy that will come in handy. OH! and some .250 QD's... stupid coin door.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/10736370243_40053e18cf_z.jpg)
Well, since i can't wire the plugs to these button LED modules yet, i might as well get to things i can do. I'm not happy with the little 161 bulbs that light the coin door buttons. They suck. We'll leave it at that. I've been playing around with a number of ideas and i think i've found the best way to light these buttons. Being that they're blue, they are dark as all hell and very hard to read the custom matching labels i made for them. I experimented printing the labels on 3 types of paper and overhead transparency sheets. The light travels through the transparency labels quite well, but when the light is off you can't see the labels at all inside the button because it blends in.
My solution is simple. I've covered 4 of the inside sides of the button with the metallic duct tape, and i'm going to mount 1 watt white LED packs to the sides of the buttons. I'll use the existing 161 coin door automotive bulb sockets as a stress relief from the wire harness so it all holds up to many openings/closings of the coin door. It sucks that i have to pull out these buttons again. But theme the brakes. It will give me a chance to modify the coin door screws a bit so if i pull it apart again it will be a bit more easy.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5537/10736151934_8c8c1959f8_z.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3743/10736375373_b5e93fe1df_z.jpg)
I'm also going to wire the coin microswitches tonight. Whatever moron at HAPP said "Hey, lets use .250 switches on these just to f### with people!" should be hit with a truck.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3806/10736154326_7554a3a28c_c.jpg)
My desk in my office is getting so crowded that i've had to add another table to the left of the desk as a wire station.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2824/10736162864_fb3d231821_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 08, 2013, 03:19:49 am
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5533/10738497656_3f37e41194_z.jpg)
Once i got the buttons out i laced the inside of them with the metal tape. A test shows a decent increase in brightness when lit. Well worth the effort if you have blue buttons!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/10738405845_03ebe85493_z.jpg)
I don't know what the official name for this tool is, but ---gosh-darn--- it's been helpful setting screws. I'd have to say in the 15 years i've had this crappy RadioShack tool kit, this tool alone has made it worth every penny i paid for the kit!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/10738717073_d44af78ffd_z.jpg)
Thought i'd swap the philips head screws on one side of the bracket with the bolt screws on the other. didn't think that one might be longer and I accidentally ran a hole through the front of the door. Oops.. Oh well. I wish these were the old metal ones.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/10738496776_e407f8955d_z.jpg)
This little Sylvania "LED flute" was worth the $15! i was just gonna gut it for parts, but man, it's so handy. that base is also magnetic! I think it will live attached to the back of the cash door.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2822/10738504324_52af2b0614_c.jpg)
I am gonna be a pro-star at crimping D-Sub pins when this is all over.
the coin door is wired and was tested with the multimeter. Passed with flying colours! I'll hook these up to the coin buttons and have the option of hitting the button on the CP or dropping in a token. With the exception of the mini connector for the coin lines, a new set of LED bulbs, and adjusting/swapping the coin mechs so it can take tokens, we're good to go!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/10738491416_533d276495_b.jpg)
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 08, 2013, 08:50:59 am
Post by: mcseforsale on November 08, 2013, 10:21:53 am
AJ
Your workroom is far too clean. :lol
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 09, 2013, 03:36:08 am
Wired the pot tonight. Tested, works quite nice.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/10754847384_66484d94c6_z.jpg)
started work on the Molex connectors for the RGB LED Packs. So far i'm 10 buttons in and i've found one LED pack has no working green. I'll send Paradise an email after i check the rest. Good thing i bought a couple extra modules just in case!
crimping these connections is tedious!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/10755049143_02eba48c2b_c.jpg)
saw the BEST Movember hat at my buddy's place today.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3729/10754845364_2650ab82cf_z.jpg)
Post by: Nephasth on November 09, 2013, 12:15:16 pm
( still keeping the theme under wraps :) )
Fantastic 4 by chance?
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 09, 2013, 12:46:27 pm
( still keeping the theme under wraps :) )
Fantastic 4 by chance?
Maybe if the last two movies didn't leave such a bad taste in my mouth about the Fantastic 4 as a whole. Funny, when I was making those labels and dustwashers I had that logo in mind. Mainly to avoid looking too much like it.
The theme I've chosen is pretty cool. It's been done before (kinda). But I
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 11, 2013, 03:01:22 am
I only bought 25, but I think I'll pick up 50 more
How do i measure them to verify the size?
Post by: PL1 on November 11, 2013, 04:23:53 am
How do i measure them to verify the size?Dial calipers.
(http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00fBbtRGPqulcU/Dial-Calipers.jpg)
Scott
Post by: Nephasth on November 11, 2013, 09:28:16 am
How do i measure them to verify the size?Dial calipers.
(http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00fBbtRGPqulcU/Dial-Calipers.jpg)
Scott
Make sure to read the RCH scale.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 11, 2013, 08:21:32 pm
...no pictures. just a simple twist of a screwdriver and now i don't have to buy new mechs. ;D
Oh, and i picked up a digital calliper too. figured it would be nice to have one around the house.
Post by: thomas_surles on November 11, 2013, 09:05:03 pm
http://www.arcadereplay.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=34&osCsid=8418f5b8efc40079486b720b6ef2b962 (http://www.arcadereplay.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=34&osCsid=8418f5b8efc40079486b720b6ef2b962)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 11, 2013, 09:16:41 pm
There are some cool tokens here. Probably the cheapest around.
http://www.arcadereplay.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=34&osCsid=8418f5b8efc40079486b720b6ef2b962 (http://www.arcadereplay.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=34&osCsid=8418f5b8efc40079486b720b6ef2b962)
Yeah I saw those. Pretty cool, but the ones I have match the theme of my cab.
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2013, 10:25:48 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 11, 2013, 10:28:30 pm
Chuck E. Cheese theme? >:D
....you got me.
:P
Post by: yotsuya on November 11, 2013, 10:35:18 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 11, 2013, 10:39:02 pm
I bet you picked up 25 Flynn's Arcade tokens off eBay. I've done the same. They're awesome.
yeah i wanted them for my collection. you should see the other ones i have.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 14, 2013, 02:41:31 am
I'm done trying to work with it. I've fought and stressed over that piece of donkey crap for weeks now. MaLa took 5 minutes to setup and WORKS. It doesn't send me a patronizing sound effect every time a fuc*ing error shows up.
So yeah, there's that. I wanna thank those of you watching this thread that have tried to help me and give me advice with HyperSh*t. 20 Minutes tonight with MaLa and I'm hooked. Now i just gotta spend some time getting the whole thing customized for my liking and setup to match the theme of the cab.
I feel a million times better.
Oh and does anyone have a link to the "controls.ini" file? the link in the wiki is broken. (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Mala_Setup)
Post by: Brian74 on November 14, 2013, 07:00:41 am
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: Fursphere on November 14, 2013, 08:42:38 am
Small Update: F**K HyperSpin!
I'm done trying to work with it. I've fought and stressed over that piece of donkey crap for weeks now. MaLa took 5 minutes to setup and WORKS. It doesn't send me a patronizing sound effect every time a fuc*ing error shows up.
So yeah, there's that. I wanna thank those of you watching this thread that have tried to help me and give me advice with HyperSh*t. 20 Minutes tonight with MaLa and I'm hooked. Now i just gotta spend some time getting the whole thing customized for my liking and setup to match the theme of the cab.
I feel a million times better.
Oh and does anyone have a link to the "controls.ini" file? the link in the wiki is broken. (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Mala_Setup)
I offered in your other thread to help walk you through the setup process. Never heard back...
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 14, 2013, 12:01:50 pm
I offered in your other thread to help walk you through the setup process. Never heard back...
Yes! Thank you for that. I think late last night it just came to a point where I didn't even care about it any longer. I was gonna take one more crack at it myself and then let you know. But after a couple botched attempts I just said screw it. I tell you it's the damn sound effects that go off with error messages.
Oh well.
Post by: Fursphere on November 14, 2013, 12:05:50 pm
I offered in your other thread to help walk you through the setup process. Never heard back...
Yes! Thank you for that. I think late last night it just came to a point where I didn't even care about it any longer. I was gonna take one more crack at it myself and then let you know. But after a couple botched attempts I just said screw it. I tell you it's the damn sound effects that go off with error messages.
Oh well.
If you change your mind let me know. I'm probably going to write up a tutorial on how to build the whole thing from scratch as it is - because this seems to be the biggest pain point.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 14, 2013, 12:11:32 pm
The video tutorials and step by steps online today are brutal. I even found a step by step on the HS forums and the guy writing it must have lost interest near the end. It became less particular to detail and just abruptly ended. Maybe when you write it use colours or bold/italic text to define file paths and folder names.
Post by: Fursphere on November 14, 2013, 12:25:08 pm
I might definitely do that.
The video tutorials and step by steps online today are brutal. I even found a step by step on the HS forums and the guy writing it must have lost interest near the end. It became less particular to detail and just abruptly ended. Maybe when you write it use colours or bold/italic text to define file paths and folder names.
I'm a Systems Engineer by trade. I build complex enterprise class systems..........AND document how to rebuild them. Step by step so in the event it blows up and has to be rebuilt, anyone should be able to do it.
Documenting a Hyperspin build would be easy for - it would just take the better part of a weekend for me. lol
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 14, 2013, 12:29:34 pm
Post by: Fursphere on November 14, 2013, 12:31:54 pm
But the hard part is keeping the "how to" content up to date as they change thing. Hell, catching the changes is hard enough - since I haven't done a "from ground zero" install in over two years. I keep updating mine.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 14, 2013, 12:33:38 pm
Post by: Fursphere on November 14, 2013, 12:35:21 pm
Post by: thatpurplestuff on November 14, 2013, 01:18:19 pm
Yeah, see that just doesn't sound like fun. It drains the awesomeness out of the hobby.
Once it is set up correctly, updates are pretty much completely automated (assuming that you have membership(s) that allow you to use Hypersync). Any new XML game lists, themes, videos, images, etc can be added to your setup just by syncing with Hypersync, and you can tell it exactly what you do and don't want to download. I'm one of the people that create themes for the project, and there are always new themes being added to various systems.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 14, 2013, 07:28:42 pm
Post by: Fursphere on November 14, 2013, 10:18:39 pm
Ok well, here's the litmus test. You write one, if I can follow it and make things work then you've succeeded.
Ok, I started this tonight. Give me a few days to build the doc and test it in my virtual machine space - make sure it makes sense.
Post by: severdhed on November 14, 2013, 10:47:44 pm
Small Update: F**K HyperSpin!
I'm done trying to work with it. I've fought and stressed over that piece of donkey crap for weeks now. MaLa took 5 minutes to setup and WORKS. It doesn't send me a patronizing sound effect every time a fuc*ing error shows up.
So yeah, there's that. I wanna thank those of you watching this thread that have tried to help me and give me advice with HyperSh*t. 20 Minutes tonight with MaLa and I'm hooked. Now i just gotta spend some time getting the whole thing customized for my liking and setup to match the theme of the cab.
I feel a million times better.
Oh and does anyone have a link to the "controls.ini" file? the link in the wiki is broken. (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Mala_Setup)
I couldn't agree more....it looks nice, but is way too cumbersome
Post by: BadMouth on November 15, 2013, 09:24:57 am
http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/controls/controls_dat.php (http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/controls/controls_dat.php)
It hasn't been updated since v.141
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 15, 2013, 10:39:17 pm
controls.ini
http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/controls/controls_dat.php (http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/controls/controls_dat.php)
It hasn't been updated since v.141
Nice! Thanks, I've got a couple weeks to work on my MaLa build.
Other
In the mean time I need to get busy with the artwork and the frontend build. The next couple phases are construction and installation of all the parts I've been working on up till now. Then beer, copious amounts of beer.
I've considered doing matching embroidered bar stools as well. I have access to a pretty bad ass embroidery machine, and the buddy of mine that owns it does some amazing work. I've just gotta shop around for the stools I want.
Post by: yotsuya on November 15, 2013, 11:39:26 pm
I have access to a pretty bad ass embroidery machine,
There's a joke here, but I just can't find the right angle to play on it... :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 16, 2013, 03:03:23 am
We'll see what he says.
Here's an early quick look at the 3" x 2" panel as i started to draw it out in photoshop.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3762/10881473656_d8bc49ba67_c.jpg)
Post by: jongunz on November 17, 2013, 01:50:25 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 17, 2013, 05:08:59 pm
Early on in the design process i got in touch with one of the original concept artists for the Tron Legacy film. I explained to him what i was building and that i wanted to use his artwork for the theme of my cab. He's offered to help me with some of his work. I'm trying to get ahold of one of the others that worked on the film for some other work, but so far haven't heard back.
The theme is quite Simple. For Starters This is NOT a Tron cabinet. (I'm not even going to put a Tron game on it! ...maybe...) Kind of in the way that Frasier was not an 11 year set of extra Cheers episodes. Think: "Flynn's Arcade, inside the Grid". This is an Encom machine in the style of Flynn's on the grid. Over the last few weeks i've been working on a ton of small details to make this work. Obviously the main Cab art you'll see below is a work in progress, but i thought i'd add it for effect so you get an idea of where this ship is headed. Things will change and adapt as the art moves along.
Everything on the Cab is designed for minimalistic simplicity. Hence why there are no labels on the CP, the dustwashers have a simple matching number to the coin door buttons and i've gone with light up pushbuttons/joysticks corresponding to each game.
I know attempts have been made on this theme before, but i just wanted to raise the bar. A "Version 2.0" if you will.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2857/10912675436_bf789739e5_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/10912704734_4e236a2795_c.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/10912708874_9cb422aa68_b.jpg)
Dustwasher and coin door art side by side.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/10912662966_1d0c092892_c.jpg)
Serial number plate. There's gonna be no avery labels here folks. I've found a place in town that makes these actual things, and i'm just waiting on a quote.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/10912756944_a88183e351_c.jpg)
The I/O mount plate, with matching Encom logo. This will be cut and etched in plastic once a get the measurements from the chassis mounted USB cable that has yet to arrive from Hong Kong.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/10912908103_b057a8f170_c.jpg)
Coin Door Reject Buttons!
Due to the thicker darker plastic of the blue buttons i've had to get crafty (pun intended). I tested 4 types of paper for these labels. Overhead Transparencies, two types of special anti-tear plastic paper, and simple cheap draft fax machine paper. Oddly enough the crappy fax paper worked the best! The transparent labels sucked because when the buttons weren't lit you didn't have that white of the paper to see the labels, and when they were lit it let out too much light. Speaking of light, the wedge bulbs on the coin door are crap with these dark buttons so i've ordered small 12v LED packs that adapt to the 161 bulb wedge socket on the door. This is why i laced most of the inside of each button with foil tape.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7392/10912654566_d54e38f459_c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3832/10912608585_d94d8b53e3_z.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/10912918393_f8cfa6cb98_c.jpg)
Coins! As previously stated above i've gotten my hands on a bunch of the actual Flynn's Arcade tokens from Disney. Just thought it would be a nice touch. :)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/10913061323_1c3c0d7de9_z.jpg)
I also had done up a couple vinyl decals. one of these will make its way onto the cash door of the coin box. I got two because, well, lets face it odds are i'm going to mess the first one up and it will be crooked. :) I've planned for a blue spotlight LED to shine down from the underside of the overhanging CP to light the coin door. Should give me a nice blue glow on this logo.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/10912920583_71f1f76d6f_z.jpg)
I also ordered a custom keychain! Jon says it ships Monday!
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2857/10912838876_1403c711d0_c.jpg)
Oh, and i have some LED Strip lighting. not sure what i'm going to do with that yet. but when it gets here i'll have a better idea. There is also plans for a pair of custom embroidered stools with an Encom logo. But i have to find a stool i like. Of course the front end will also run a custom theme, i've just been lazy this week and haven't gotten to the art for it yet.
Post by: lcmgadgets on November 17, 2013, 07:04:49 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 18, 2013, 03:41:32 am
Oooo, oooo, let me b the 1st--SWEEETT!! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
haha, thanks!
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 18, 2013, 03:58:30 am
Just gotta say one thing about that Lono2 board: My god is that cool and simple. It just worked. I plugged it in and it just fricken' worked.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/10922131896_c5f4e7d345_c.jpg)
As you can see in the picture i didn't have the required bolts to mount the joystick, so i cut a couple strips of MDF and used drywall screws. This is the arcade equivalent of a automotive spoiler made out of a 2x4. You know how people on here usually say "The pictures don't do this justice"? Well, the pictures of this make it look better then it is. TRUST me. It's about a layer of duct tape away from being a redneck fight stick. The MDF came in handy when it came time to attach the Lono2 to something. So sad, so ghetto.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7340/10922068735_495e647bc9_c.jpg)
...Im making my next project with a transparent, 1/2" acrylic CP top. >:D
Oh, something i was working on this morning. Just to get a feel where everything is going to go and live inside the cab.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/10922070345_6333e27471_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 19, 2013, 01:42:47 am
I've gotta admit at first i was a little unhappy with how small they were, but now in comparison to the holes and stock Sanwa washers they're growing on me fast.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2886/10939498856_c4422b961d_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7298/10939703453_d87a25b9d2_c.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/10939495456_bb87b33b5c_c.jpg)
Oh and i think i found a way to mount the Marquee bracket flush without screws with a modern look/feel
BAM! MAGNETS!
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5533/10939583984_f9a654ea90_o.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5511/10939495416_7427ecf1f6_o.jpg)
Oh and the roll of pins and headers for my custom wire harnesses is in. This will be what makes up my PCB to LED and PCB to Button switch harnesses.
If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7418/10939758384_bf76c60bfe_c.jpg)
Post by: sabreerbasAlpha on November 19, 2013, 05:25:17 am
Post by: Asmotron on November 19, 2013, 10:16:02 pm
Post by: BadMouth on November 20, 2013, 09:23:17 am
Post by: HaRuMaN on November 20, 2013, 09:26:33 am
Where can I find those magnet mounts?!?
http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-inch-Ring-N48/dp/B001KUN5J2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384957578&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+ring (http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-inch-Ring-N48/dp/B001KUN5J2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384957578&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+ring)
Or some with countersunk holes:
http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-Discs-Countersunk-Recess/dp/B004PVN08O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1384957634&sr=8-2&keywords=magnet+ring+countersunk (http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-Discs-Countersunk-Recess/dp/B004PVN08O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1384957634&sr=8-2&keywords=magnet+ring+countersunk)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 20, 2013, 09:54:52 am
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=42363 (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=42363)
Post by: lcmgadgets on November 20, 2013, 12:53:50 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 20, 2013, 12:57:58 pm
Last night I priced out what this has cost so far and what I still have left to go. All I can say to people looking to build something similar: Don't. Run, just run. Take up building sand castles, or something.
I mean, at least it will be bad ass when it's done. Right?
/grumble.
Post by: yotsuya on November 20, 2013, 01:00:52 pm
See folks, I'm not just a pretty face.
Last night I priced out what this has cost so far and what I still have left to go. All I can say to people looking to build something similar: Don't. Run, just run. Take up building sand castles, or something.
I mean, at least it will be bad ass when it's done. Right?
/grumble.
As bad ass as that embroidery machine, perhaps? :cheers:
I've learned never to keep a budget on a machine you're going to keep, only one you're making for someone. :lol
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 20, 2013, 01:02:11 pm
Useless.
Haha.
Post by: yotsuya on November 20, 2013, 01:07:05 pm
Where were you with that advice YESTERDAY!
Useless.
Haha.
Oh, and does that budget count the changes you make AFTER it's done? Since I finished my cab in 2010, I've added LEDs, a new monitor, a new CP overlay, an LED-Wiz, upgraded the computer... :laugh2:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 20, 2013, 01:09:02 pm
Post by: BadMouth on November 20, 2013, 01:47:38 pm
I look at it as money spent on entertainment. If I weren't working on the cab, I'd be spending the money on some other way to entertain myself.
The only cheap route in this hobby is to find a fairly complete machine for <$100, do minimal work to it, toss in a PC found curbside, & sell the original boards to recoup some money.
....but it would probably be limited to 2D games in MAME and definitely wouldn't be Overambitious.
Post by: TKW4rr10r on November 20, 2013, 04:52:54 pm
Post by: yotsuya on November 20, 2013, 06:25:50 pm
No, hence all the preplaning. It will be right, and done the first time.
Good. Remember that when you get THE ITCH.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 21, 2013, 11:00:11 pm
More on this later, I'm at a hockey game. Drinking.
Post by: stigzler on November 25, 2013, 04:22:44 pm
Post by: Asmotron on November 25, 2013, 11:55:45 pm
No, hence all the preplaning. It will be right, and done the first time.
I remember pre-planning, then saw a cab with a 32" led TV... And had to start preparing planning all over again. :P
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 27, 2013, 03:54:44 am
Keychain came in the mail today. Amazing quality, and i'm very happy with it, Jon does good work. Be sure to check out his thread Here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,97793.0/all.html)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3667/11081107214_4109dde63b_c.jpg)
My quick disconnects came in from Hong Kong. I now figure I need about 80, but because I suck at math I ordered 300.
They were dirt cheap, and not bright red, so that makes me happy. The extra will come in handy and maybe i'll use the same ones on my next build.
...Wait, i'm using bright red for my next build... Meh.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/11080998385_d11105fc7e_c.jpg)
Also, i had the outline for my CP printed so i could get an idea of scale. This thing is big...
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5540/11081109564_87902138cd_c.jpg)
Also, If anyone cares i've been blogging this build on Instagram under the Hashtag #ChancesArcade. Tons more pictures and craziness.
Post by: Brian74 on November 27, 2013, 09:48:41 am
Small update because it's really late and i'm tired. I've been working on the side art for the last 5 hours and i hate computers right now...Have a link for those disconnects?
Keychain came in the mail today. Amazing quality, and i'm very happy with it, Jon does good work. Be sure to check out his thread Here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,97793.0/all.html)
My quick disconnects came in from Hong Kong. I now figure I need about 80, but because I suck at math I ordered 300.
They were dirt cheap, and not bright red, so that makes me happy. The extra will come in handy and maybe i'll use the same ones on my next build.
...Wait, i'm using bright red for my next build... Meh.
Also, i had the outline for my CP printed so i could get an idea of scale. This thing is big...
Also, If anyone cares i've been blogging this build on Instagram under the Hashtag #ChancesArcade. Tons more pictures and craziness.
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 27, 2013, 12:23:07 pm
Highly recommended.
Post by: BadMouth on November 27, 2013, 01:01:42 pm
Have a link for those disconnects?
Keep in mind that the Japanese buttons use smaller terminals (.110") if you're using those.
EDIT: That's the 2.8mm from the same seller.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Set-2-8mm-Crimp-Terminal-Female-Spade-Connector-Case-/110992661704?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d7ad9cc8 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Set-2-8mm-Crimp-Terminal-Female-Spade-Connector-Case-/110992661704?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d7ad9cc8)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 27, 2013, 01:03:34 pm
Have a link for those disconnects?
Keep in mind that the Japanese buttons use smaller terminals (.110") if you're using those.
Good point! This link is for .187 QD's. I bet the seller has the other sizes as well. Maybe take some time and snoop around their for sale section.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 27, 2013, 02:23:54 pm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121042292884 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121042292884)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 28, 2013, 12:47:15 am
GOOD NEWS EVERYONE! The SLG is now working properly. First off, Aaron (CraftyMech) makes a wicked product with his Mini SLG 2X (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344). And his customer service is top quality. I had been having issues with my setup trying to get the SLG to work, and we've discovered it's not compatible with Apple Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adaptors. A quick trip to the Apple Store to pick up a Mini DVI to VGA and we're good to go. A couple of you following the thread may have seen that i picked up one of these adaptors a while back and then returned it. In comparison the Apple branded adaptor seems to fit the Mini DVI port WAY better, and they are the same price as the generic ones.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/11095861495_0a9e90657a_z.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3806/11095856945_84a159b861.jpg)(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3758/11095860505_7020ee406d.jpg)
I had a package from Molex come in yesterday and today i was able to finish wiring up the LED packs in the buttons. I know there is more Molex on the way, and i'll have enough left over to wire a Stealth Bomber. ...hmmm, that gives me an idea...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7310/11095853625_108c7869fe_c.jpg)
I've found the material i want to use for the marquee holder. Its a 1" Black aluminium L bracket found at Home Depot. Seeing how it's not magnetic i'm going to have to get crafty with some superglue and some steel washers. The best part is that it's clean, simple, comes in a few colours, and 8 foot lengths.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2857/11095972134_744cd94d99_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 29, 2013, 02:22:03 am
Started work on the Mala layout tonight. I like the idea of being able to design my own GUI with such control. Really early on the look and feel of this thing so this is all basic stuff.
Game list on the left, in-game screenshots on the upper right, and controls along the bottom. I'm working the emulator identification into the controls section. So far i have all the Nintendo ones done, as well as Arcade (MAME) and PC. SEGA, Atari, NeoGeo, and a couple others are next. Here's three screenshots of the progress so far. Not sure if you can tell but the Arcade(MAME) one has a small homage to a very popular BYOAC Cab that may have won 2012 cab of the year.....
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/11112875654_2d7901bcba_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/11112822955_351d8de261_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/11112876846_a5e13b5ce3_b.jpg)
I should have started on this a LONG time ago. I'm going to be paying for it when the Cab is finished and i'm still designing this damn crap. I'm basically teaching myself Mala Layouts as i go, and deconstructing other popular layouts on the site to see how certain things were done.
I've decided that this machine will only have a limited number of my and my friends favourite older games. Basically if i can't drop a disc into my 360 or Wii U and play it then its going into this build. That opens the door for a whole couple decades of PC games like Take No Prisoners, Secret Agent Man and as previously mentioned GTA/GTA2. I don't want miles and miles of titles i'll never play that will just collect digital dust and rot on the hard drive.
Post by: Nephasth on November 29, 2013, 10:38:54 am
Not sure if you can tell but the Arcade(MAME) one has a small homage to a very popular BYOAC Cab that may have won 2012 cab of the year.....
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/11112876846_a5e13b5ce3_b.jpg)
Dude, that's awesome! I'm honored and flattered to see aspects of the Beast, even the little ones, carry over into other people's builds. :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 29, 2013, 11:30:19 am
Post by: Nephasth on November 29, 2013, 12:17:11 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 29, 2013, 07:10:55 pm
Er... Yeah... ???
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3719/11124316334_d36dc17fc8_c.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5478/11124276426_3ceb4e2aed_c.jpg)
I wanted to get an idea of how things fit.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3821/11124277486_0bb424199f_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7364/11124273446_7a8b9acfa7_c.jpg)
One of the bottom bits of the CP box didn't turn out so well, but i'll deal with that later.
Post by: Slippyblade on November 29, 2013, 08:06:53 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 30, 2013, 03:15:03 am
Post by: emphatic on November 30, 2013, 04:03:29 am
Keep in mind that the Japanese buttons use smaller terminals (.110") if you're using those.
In my experience, .187 disconnects work very well with .110 switches (i.e. they won't fall off unless you pull on them). The other way, not so much. ;)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 30, 2013, 05:38:20 pm
Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!
Works quite well thank you... ;D ;D
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/11140491704_69158f1f99_c.jpg)
And this is only with one LED thats not even facing into the tube. I've gotta pick up some better LEDs from PAS (i'm thinking a pair of Tropical Mood Light RGB LEDS on each side of the tube. and i'll paint the joystick mounting plate and hole black. ...this will be good.
8)
Post by: Nephasth on November 30, 2013, 06:01:55 pm
Looking forward to seeing how your tube lighting works out!
Works quite well thank you... ;D ;D
Yup, I dig it. :cheers:
Post by: rtkiii on December 03, 2013, 02:57:40 pm
Seriously I like your name better. I almost want to start a new Cabinet in the color scheme of Flynn's Arcade from Tron... Nice.
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 03, 2013, 03:03:54 pm
Yeah it's been a little more then an obsession these last couple months.
Update: I'm working on a couple bits of the GUI for the FrontEnd again today. I switched the FrontEnd (again!) this time after some trial and error I've gone with Maximus. Purely for the look and feel of the finished product when it came to the GUI. I've got a few photoshop tricks up my sleeve so that's helping to overcome some of the limitations in the theme editor. Overall Maximus seems like it could rule them all for novice users, it's just lacking a few things here and there that I have to get crafty with.
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 05, 2013, 05:28:27 am
Today I updated the MacMini from a 120gb drive to a 500gb I had sitting in an external sled just collecting dust. Now that I'm effectively done testing the software, and playing around with different front ends/software I can do a clean boot camp install of windows 7 ultimate and start building the software package.
I'm glad I switched to Maximus arcade from Mala, nothing against Mala, it's just MA has been kinda bomb proof with the setup and GUI customization. Sure it has some limits, I could make a list of things in the theme editor I'd change or add. But somehow I'm managing to overcome and adapt to some of its limitations to get what I want done. MA also has a nice "consumer product" finish to it. Very happy with the progress so far. Rom sets and snap collection is coming along nicely as well.
Also ordered the joystick LEDs from Paradise Arcade today. Every time I work with Susan or Bryan I'm reminded how much some businesses can really care to give good customer service. Very happy with my dealings with them so far.
I'm close to finishing the cab art. Just some small touches in Photoshop and I'll be good to go.
Construction will start soon, just waiting on my buddy's schedule to clear up and we'll transfer all these wood bits to his shop for construction. Once we get it to the painted stage we'll move it back here for the electronics install. I've got a very good feeling about that mid/late February deadline I've given myself.
...more later.
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 09, 2013, 12:53:23 am
We've moved construction to the shop. Everything I need for construction/paint is there.
I've made a run to Home Depot to pick up some essentials.
-Castors
-construction adhesive (there was a sale on PL Premium)
-wood screws,
-¾" angled steel
-roller latchs
-lock knobs, bolts and hardware,
-some hammered black paint and primer to match the marquee holder to the coin door.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2824/11283883706_d8fe0dfae8_c.jpg)
Also went in to Lee Valley Tools and picked up some of those magnets. These things are tough!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/11283999883_6853ee9fd2_c.jpg)
As mentioned before I gutted the MacMini and upgraded the hard drive. I guess i should have done the RAM when i was in there as its a bit of a chore to get that deep into the machine. These are the perfect boxes for Arcade machines. The make like zero noise, very small form factor, use very little power, have a decent performance (scores a 5.7 in Windows), and can be found under $400 online. This ones an "Early 2009" model. I use a newer 2011 Server edition for my home media server and to run my theatre downstairs. Brilliant little boxes.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3669/11283831125_8e1bcca0ae_z.jpg)
Also, Figured out how to get a Virtual Boy emulator in Maximus Arcade. So thats going in there. had a little fun with some 3d glasses. Its too bad the VB was such a commercial failure. some of the games aren't bad.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/11283908234_c3b7a70708_c.jpg)
I've been spending a TON of time in photoshop customizing the GUI for Maximus, i figure i'm about half done the software side of things.
Post by: mcseforsale on December 09, 2013, 10:15:50 am
>:D
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 09, 2013, 07:53:52 pm
Hammered black FTW! Right, Maximus?
...you're going to have to enlighten me on this one.
Post by: mcseforsale on December 10, 2013, 10:49:27 am
As with any joke, I do it to DEATH!
AJ
Hammered black FTW! Right, Maximus?
...you're going to have to enlighten me on this one.
Post by: BadMouth on December 10, 2013, 12:11:24 pm
It sucks. It's more grey than black and IMO looks more like defective paint than hammered metal.
That's my $.02 on hammered texture paint. >:D
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 10, 2013, 12:13:14 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 14, 2013, 01:52:44 am
Order consisted of 10 RGB LED's for the joystick lights, and extra button lock rings. I've decided on using the lock rings to avoid the button-to-button light bleed issue. a lot cleaner then the heat shrink, and a little more reusable, just in case.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2872/11363088836_426e85b603_c.jpg)
Also, my 12v LED packs for the coin door buttons have come in. These things are PERFECT. they come with the same wedge plug end that the bulbs would plug into and have 3M backing on them so i don't have to worry about how to go about mounting them at all.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3671/11363046045_b4c2e56403_c.jpg)
All of them just stuck to the top coin chute above the coin mechs, except for the last one, i needed to use a little metal bracket and some extra 3M tape.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3763/11363087476_b148429686_c.jpg)
These things are crazy bright, but the way i've done the buttons and setup the rest of the door, they give just the right amount of light through the front. Very happy with the end result here.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3707/11363047615_08debf5f91_c.jpg)
Thats it for today, hopefully i'll find some time this weekend to get out to the shop and work on the cab construction. I also have a bunch more work to do on the front end before i shell windows. We're getting there folks...
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 15, 2013, 05:53:09 am
First, removing the backing of the TV i discovered that the buttons were soldered directly to the main PCB of the TV.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2867/11381474794_0a526da470_c.jpg)
Next i soldered a couple leads to the bottom of the switch. I don't have the best iron in the world, and the tip is just wrecked on it, but i did the best i could with what i had. it will hold and not short out. Thats the important part.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2881/11381558463_793cee507a_c.jpg)
Next i drilled a small hole by the power button. (thats the sound of the TV's warranty going out the window...)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7351/11381559693_67ef933c95_z.jpg)
I added a zip tie to the inside of the wires as a stress relief, just in case.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3700/11381425925_6c4f082b47_c.jpg)
Then I added a small molex connector and reassembled the casing. This will connect to a switch i'm installing on the back side of the control panel.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3758/11381427476_f259700dee_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 24, 2013, 07:15:26 am
LED ring buttons for powering the TV, Mac, and Master power switch are on the way. Being DHL express delivered from China. These will be cool, I'm really glad I went in this direction for the power. I just need to pop over to MRO and grab some larger gauge wire now to mod the power bar. I've gone and also ordered a button cover for the latching master power switch. Reminds me of Airwolf. ;D
That's all for now folks, might not have too many updates until the new year.
Post by: mcseforsale on December 24, 2013, 12:04:11 pm
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_7224.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/IMG_7224.jpg.html)
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 24, 2013, 12:08:23 pm
1 black latching single pole, 1 black momentary single pole, and one black momentary double pole. All with 12v blue LEDs. Gonna hide them around the back side of the CP overhang from the cab. ;D
The latching one is a 22mm and will get the button cover. I'm going to reroute the power bar I have.
Post by: mcseforsale on December 24, 2013, 08:55:20 pm
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_5222.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/IMG_5222.jpg.html)
Mine's black, so when the machine is off, you can barely see it:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMAG0406_zpsbfcd2c61.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/IMAG0406_zpsbfcd2c61.jpg.html)
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 26, 2013, 03:07:14 am
Yeah, that looks awesome AJ! You may yet change my mind on the placement. Fired up one of the switches last night, these things are going to be awesome.
The smaller 22mm shown in the picture with the cover is the latching switch i mentioned before. Its being spliced into the main power of the power bar running the whole cab. Idea is, i'll flip open the cover AirWolf style, press the button, it will light the blue rings on all the buttons, turn on the 12v system (Marquee lights, coin door lights, CP PCB's, etc), the USB hub, audio system, and allow power to the TV and Mac. I've gone with separate monetary switches for the TV and MacMini because the TV is a basic on/off function, where as the Mac has a Press and Hold function for resetting. I didn't want it to interfere with the functions of the TV. Overall just more control. Looks like i'm going to have to design a small plate to mount these similar to the I/O on the front of the CP.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/11560978235_17c4b95d1d_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 28, 2013, 06:00:16 pm
We were able to pick up the rest of the plywood from my supplyer today. Construction should resume soon.
I also was finally able to place my order for the t-moulding. The router bit was out of stock for some time so I didn't want to waste money shipping it seperatly until I could get it all at once.
I found a small PCB Y adaptor for the power switch on the MacMini that will allow me to tap into the switch without permiently modifying it. Ordered that too.
Speaking of vandal switches, my latching switch for the power bar had failed so the supplier is sending me two more free of charge. Thanks to Scott I've got the powerbar hacked up and modified. I set it up the other night to turn on the powerbar, with the 12v power supply plugged into it and connected to the button LED. It was a cool feeling pressing that button, watching it turn on the powerbar and power supply then lighting the button. :D Scott, you're awesome!
Artwork is 98% done. Couple more touchups and it will be ready to go to print. I know people here speak highly of GameOn, but I've found a place locally that I've chosen to print with. They were responsible for printing a ton of the vinyl for the 2010 Winter Olympics, and they will apparently be able to put up with how picky I can be. :)
I know there's something I'm forgetting right now, but oh well. ;D
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 28, 2013, 11:11:47 pm
Testing the latching button i installed to relocate the one on the power bar. (SmartStrip BE DAMNED!)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/11616194785_6d91602b5d_c.jpg)
HUGE thanks to Scott on this one. As you can see i've cracked open the power bar and added the red control wires to the latching button (shown above). I have a tendency to add zip ties as strain reliefs every time i do something like this. I are sure to buy the wire for this with red shielding. pretty much all the rest of the wires in the cab will be black, with the exception of the grey shielded pair i have for other 12v applications (Marquee, coin door lights, etc). I like the idea to call out what runs are power and what aren't.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3766/11616541814_f596e9b2be_c.jpg)
I contacted Susan at Paradise Arcade for some extra lock rings. I feel that this is a less permanent solution to the button masking. Just in case i have to take a button out for some reason I would like to avoid having something as disposable as heat shrink, or as flimsy as velcro tape. They line up just perfect, so if you're planning on putting these IL buttons into ¾ wood, then this is the way to go. No question.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3806/11616950706_00e1b4db71_c.jpg)
...i couldn't resist a small test... ;D
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5493/11616544684_f80d2e911e_z.jpg)
Speaking of tests. Paradise Arcade "Tropical Mood Lights" seem to fit exactly into the slots for my joystick light rings. They are the matching LED packs that i have in my IL buttons and will work fantastically. I ordered a couple extras of these as well. For some reason i had a bit of bad luck with these ones and 2 of the ones in the order are missing one colour each when tested. Susan and her Bryan have been Amazing with this and replacements should be on the way as soon as they get a chance.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3766/11616540164_e8d5ce95cd_c.jpg)
I've reached out to a laser engraving company in town to have the small I/O plate and the new power switch plate cut. I have another option for this possibly if these guys fall through. I'd post a picture of the new power switch plate, but lets be honest, it has two 25mm holes, one 22mm hole, and an ENCOM logo. Use your imagination. ;D ;D
Thats it for now folks. Hope everyone had a great holiday season!
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 30, 2013, 02:47:43 am
A clean simple design on the CP. No button markings, or directional arrows. Just simple. Lets the art do the talking.
Bottom of the side panels has been a left as a fade to black because i plan on putting hammered black tread plate down there.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3742/11642346446_8f8ed619d5_b.jpg)
Post by: WaRpEd on December 30, 2013, 11:26:08 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 30, 2013, 11:44:31 am
I love the theme and artwork, keep up the great work!
Thanks! :D
I'm hoping to get this thing done soon before it kills me. Too many cool abandoned projects here. That's just unfortunate. :(
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 05, 2014, 07:40:59 pm
T-Moulding order came in. (is it weird that i had another "this is so happening now" moment when i opened this box?)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/11788140563_a0d395d316_c.jpg)
Also, not sure if i mentioned this before. But I've decided to have the I/O panels made out of Lamacoid. I received a sample of the stuff and i kinda like the idea of it. shown below, i was just getting a sense of scale for the panels.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5539/11787911135_8a4d12a1b9_c.jpg)
Thats it for now.
Post by: Santoro on January 06, 2014, 02:10:47 pm
Post by: monkeychunkuk on January 06, 2014, 04:02:08 pm
Post by: Fursphere on January 06, 2014, 04:59:48 pm
WOOOOO!!
T-Moulding order came in. (is it weird that i had another "this is so happening now" moment when i opened this box?)
Thats it for now.
Be careful with that slot cutter. I have the same one - that thing is wicked. Finger eater! :)
And it makes awesome fireworks when you hit a screw you forgot was there. lol
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 06, 2014, 05:02:04 pm
I've also heard/seen people put the bit on backwards. I'll keep an eye out for that.
Post by: yotsuya on January 06, 2014, 05:24:00 pm
Thanks. If I lose any then I'll lose the ability to count to ten without taking off my socks.
I've also heard/seen people put the bit on backwards. I'll keep an eye out for that.
If you get a shitload of smoke when cutting, it's on backwards. :cheers:
Post by: Slippyblade on January 06, 2014, 06:35:08 pm
Post by: mcseforsale on January 06, 2014, 08:33:13 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 10, 2014, 01:55:31 am
This little kit will allow me to non-destructively hack the power button on the MacMini. As mentioned before, I plan on connecting this to one of many vandal switches i've picked up.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5504/11866642723_b0cbc7ef5b_c.jpg)
Connecting everything inside the Mac was simple. I carefully disconnected the current power switch, wired it to the kit, added a black zip tie for strain relief and ran the wires out the edge of the vent. After that all that was left to do was connect a molex plug to the wires and test it.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/11866774574_b8b76545c4_c.jpg)
Speaking of testing, i used some free time tonight to test most of the 12v subsystem. Basically, when you press the covered vandal switch (shown in the middle of the picture), It powers the power bar (hiding just out of frame on the right). the power bar turns on the audio, Mac, TV and 12v power supply, including the marquee light, coin door, button lights, and any other 12v system i'm planning on. Pretty cool little system. Now i just need to have the mounting plates for the buttons fabricated. Anyone have access to a laser cutter??
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/11866637633_5dbb971d9f_c.jpg)
I also got done some more work on the front end GUI. I'm really glad i landed on Maximus Arcade now. Things are really starting to come together. Might make a small screen cap video once i've worked out all the bugs...
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 11, 2014, 02:02:07 am
First i started out with a printed copy of the panel. I taped it down and used a knife to remove the cutouts.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/11883322046_46433638a7_c.jpg)
I then moved the paper template to the Lamacoid sample and copied the holes again using a sharp knife. Lamacoid is pretty cool to work with, you can drill and engrave it without cracking. It's what you commonly see name tags made out of. Cool stuff. Best way to do this was to drill a ton of holes around the button cutouts, cut the middle out with flush cutters, then use a small file to round the openings. I had to wear a mask, just to be on the safe side.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3695/11883320276_b788d2a5e8_c.jpg)
Once i cleaned up all the dust and shavings i went right to work on the wire harness. I like to tinker with these subassemblies as i build them so i always have a bunch of small adaptor cables i've made with various plugs and ends on them. Since i was running out of 0.110 QD's i decided to scrap a couple of these cables for the harness.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5519/11883316686_820d94b183_c.jpg)
Here's the panel almost finished. I added a few zip ties and built a separate wire harness for the control lines that will run fro the Mac Mini and TV to the two momentary switches on the left. The right covered button is a latching switch that I've wired to the power bar in previous posts.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/11882905224_29e948cc6f_c.jpg)
Made sure to test the wiring as i went.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/11883314776_4bd93345f7_c.jpg)
And finally the completed assembly with the prototype panel. This will work quite well once i get the real panel laser cut and installed into the back side of the CP overhang. Top 4 circuit connector will run to the TV and Mac for power on/off function, and the bottom 2 circuit will power the 12v LED's in the buttons.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/11883531156_409d22e037_c.jpg)
Thats it for now.
Post by: rablack97 on January 11, 2014, 02:26:26 am
(http://i21.geccdn.net/site/images/n-picgroup/IRW_BM42916.jpg)
Or did you just do it that way cause you mentioned boredom.
Very nice work though anyway man, very nice. :applaud:
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 11, 2014, 03:35:10 am
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. :D
Post by: emphatic on January 11, 2014, 06:01:39 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 18, 2014, 05:27:20 am
I figure now i'm going to miss my mid-Feb Deadline. Oh well. We'll get there folks...
Finished the vector art for the I/O panels.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3681/12009359174_a7564dc0fc_c.jpg)
I've noticed that the crimp section of these QD's is HUGE. must be meant for a larger gauge wire. I still need to find a proper crimper for these. I can't seem to get my hands on one at my local shops. Any ideas?
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/12009035525_d2cc0a65d5_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 18, 2014, 05:59:25 am
From this:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/12009253295_4fde8f5a8a.jpg)
To this!
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/12009662323_313d294b35_c.jpg)
So much better.
Post by: emphatic on January 18, 2014, 07:10:52 am
I've noticed that the crimp section of these QD's is HUGE. must be meant for a larger gauge wire. I still need to find a proper crimper for these. I can't seem to get my hands on one at my local shops. Any ideas?
This is probably blasphemy here, but I use my wire cutter to crimp that kind of QD, it's much easier to work with IMHO than my heavy duty crimping tool. :cheers:
Post by: wp34 on January 18, 2014, 09:23:47 am
Made sure to test the wiring as i went.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/11883314776_4bd93345f7_c.jpg)
That looks fantastic! Nice work. :cheers:
Post by: rablack97 on January 18, 2014, 12:11:06 pm
Small update:I've been busy and sitting on my @$$ with this.
I figure now i'm going to miss my mid-Feb Deadline. Oh well. We'll get there folks...
Finished the vector art for the I/O panels.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3681/12009359174_a7564dc0fc_c.jpg)
I've noticed that the crimp section of these QD's is HUGE. must be meant for a larger gauge wire. I still need to find a proper crimper for these. I can't seem to get my hands on one at my local shops. Any ideas?
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/12009035525_d2cc0a65d5_c.jpg)
Uh yeah, Solder.......the take needle nose pliers and fold over the holders, if your good at it you can round off the crimp, its not pretty but it holds good, the plastic will cover up the mess anyhow. Bottom line is you will have a good connection.
Theres a youtube video of a guy using needle nose for these crimps looks pretty darn good....
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 18, 2014, 03:47:10 pm
This is probably blasphemy here, but I use my wire cutter to crimp that kind of QD, it's much easier to work with IMHO than my heavy duty crimping tool. :cheers:I've done a couple tests with that, but they come out looking like crap, and not professional at all. I had experimented with cutting down the tangs at the end so it fit a smaller wire. It will be extra work, but might be worth it.
That looks fantastic! Nice work. :cheers:Thanks! I'm excited to see what its going to look like with the real laser cut panel. You guys are all gonna give me hell when this ends up on the back side of the CP overhang and is somewhat out of sight. :D
Uh yeah, Solder.......the take needle nose pliers and fold over the holders, if your good at it you can round off the crimp, its not pretty but it holds good, the plastic will cover up the mess anyhow. Bottom line is you will have a good connection.
Theres a youtube video of a guy using needle nose for these crimps looks pretty darn good....
I was considering solder. I'll have to brush up on my skills with the iron. one thing thats also helped is stripping a little more off the wire and folding it over once. gives a nice little hook in the crimp, and acts as a 'double' crimp. Might be a pain in the ass when i have to daisy chain the ground wires.but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.
If i get some free time tonight i plan on getting the ledger boards cut and installed into the side panels of the cab. Its finding time to get down to the shop thats slowly keeping this project back. Everything is ready to go, just need a good few days woodworking and then painting.
Post by: HaRuMaN on January 18, 2014, 06:08:22 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 25, 2014, 01:24:31 am
First off, huge props to Randy at GroovyGameGear (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/) for doing my I/O panels. These things look awesome, and I can't wait to get my hands on them. Those buttons are going to look so badass mounted on that plate. I haven't planned on surface mounting or flush mounting these onto the CP yet, but that will come like most things on this build as i go.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2846/12128693164_bc40c992f3_o.jpg)
Speaking of engraving, I had a local shop do this little guy up for me. Thats the real deal folks, 0.032" anodized aluminium plate. No Avery labels varnished onto pop cans here. It's the little details right?
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/12128572483_c44eca7820_c.jpg)
Also i've picked up some dimensional lumber for the "ledger board" construction of the main cab. Nothing fancy here, as i didn't have much time to work in the shop before having to leave to do other things that night...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3682/12128295295_67c85edc0a_z.jpg)
I don't really have many pictures of the progress i made that night, but i was able to take that 1-to-1 paper printout of my CP top and use it as a pattern to draw the base of my CP onto some plywood. I did a bit of sketching on it as well to get an idea where the controls on the CP top above it would sit in relation to the mounting knobs, I/O panels, and wire channels i'll be creating into it.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/12128295965_98fd26956b_c.jpg)
Also picked up a new badass cordless jigsaw with a laser guide and a cool 8ft collapsable strait edge. I've got a couple big things i need to take care of this weekend so there might not be too much time for construction. Tonight i'll draft up a pattern for the coin door hole on the drafting board, get that step out of the way. I almost wish HAPP included a printable pattern for their doors as a download. But that would be too easy now wouldn't it? :D
Post by: mcseforsale on January 26, 2014, 12:45:01 am
AJ
Post by: yotsuya on January 26, 2014, 01:33:13 am
SNAP! Poke at coreybee for the avery labels on pop cans. *BUT* I can speak for the quality of Cory's pop-can labels. They're actually pretty cool!
AJ
Yeah, CB's handmade plates fit in nicely at a place called Build Your Own Arcade Controls.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 26, 2014, 05:14:26 am
Anyways...
Another day another update.
I spent some time today working on the cab. The mounting holes for the joysticks had been cut at the wrong size on the CnC, so last week when i was in the shop i had to bore out the holes to a larger size. The drill i was using died on me after the second one, and with nothing to do i decided to just use my hands. Took forever just to scrape out enough to do one stick so i gave up until tonight. Replaced the drill and in a few minutes i had new holes and installed the inserts.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/12148332695_27da451b0c_c.jpg)
Next i moved on to the light rings for the sticks. I have enough of this stuff that i can afford to make a few test inserts in order to figure out how much i'll need to scuff them up to get the desired lighting result.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/12148737724_42f3551897_c.jpg)
Here's a basic idea of how these will all fit together once completed. As you can see the CnC was a little off with it's depth, so i'll need to mill out those wire channels with a Dremel. I need to be careful when i sand these holes as well, This one was done by hand when i first received the CP top and i ended up rounding off a bit of the lip that holds the insert under the CP. You can kinda see a bit of a gap down around the base of the insert, but whatever, i'll fix that as i go.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5549/12148991796_381c21d59c_c.jpg)
I also took some time to test out my idea for installing the marquee magnets. Using a ⅝" auger bit i'm going to drill two thirds down into the edge of the plywood. Then i'll rabbet out the edge of the wood so the marquee bracket will sit flush with the rest of the sheet. Finally I'll add some construction adhesive and insert the magnets. We'll see more of this when i get to this stage. For now just a proof of concept on a scrap piece of wood...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3822/12148581183_bb7cf90069_c.jpg)
I even managed to get most of the ledger board installed on one side of the cab. Matching it up on the other side without a template is going to be a bit of a pain in the butt, however i'm a bit of a perfectionists so i'll make sure it comes out square even if it takes all day.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/12148994156_ecd13d25e4_c.jpg)
Thats it for now. I've got a busy next couple weeks ahead of me at work. hopefully i'll get some more shop time in soon.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 29, 2014, 03:17:36 am
I finally found a perfect open barrel crimp tool for these silly oddball size ebay special quick disconnects. It was Dirt cheap and local too! It's not a ratchinting one, but it does have a decent cutter on the nose in front of the dies. Not bad for $28!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/12201921915_f7898d5dc5_c.jpg)
(Yes, I am aware of the hideous crimp on the left connector. I will get better with time.) :D
http://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/16801.htm (http://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/16801.htm)
Post by: Nephasth on January 29, 2014, 09:04:49 am
Not bad for $28!
For about that, you could have got yourself a pair of ratcheting crimpers (http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1391004248&sr=8-5&keywords=tool+aid+crimper).
Post by: yotsuya on January 29, 2014, 09:27:58 am
Post by: jdbailey1206 on January 29, 2014, 09:31:21 am
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/11883531156_409d22e037_c.jpg)
Chance - Where did you pick up your 4 pin molex connector that is on the top left of this picture? Hoping to get one in a kit so I can put it together instead of hacking a pre made one. Been looking for one for my coin door. Thanks in advance.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 29, 2014, 10:45:08 am
Chance - Where did you pick up your 4 pin molex connector that is on the top left of this picture? Hoping to get one in a kit so I can put it together instead of hacking a pre made one. Been looking for one for my coin door. Thanks in advance.
Direct from Molex, PM me with what your planning.
Not bad for $28!
For about that, you could have got yourself a pair of ratcheting crimpers (http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1391004248&sr=8-5&keywords=tool+aid+crimper).
Dawww, why didn't you say so before :P
Post by: Nephasth on January 29, 2014, 11:20:52 am
For about that, you could have got yourself a pair of ratcheting crimpers (http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1391004248&sr=8-5&keywords=tool+aid+crimper).
Dawww, why didn't you say so before :P
[/quote]
I have, in numerous threads.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 29, 2014, 11:54:18 am
Post by: Nephasth on January 29, 2014, 12:18:22 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 29, 2014, 12:24:05 pm
How are you crimping your micro-fit terminal pins?
The molars harvested from one of the Keebler Elves glued to a par of vice grips. Now you know why you haven't seen them in any commercials lately.
....I picked up a small inexpensive d-sub crimper from one of the various parts suppliers here in Calgary. They didn't have one for these QD's so I had to go to a shop in town I can't normally get too as they've the same office hours I do.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/10680821516_ffff86f5e4_c.jpg)
Post by: KevinFlynn on January 29, 2014, 05:09:40 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 29, 2014, 05:14:35 pm
Well, if you're ever in the Calgary area I do enjoy a good beer.
Post by: opt2not on January 29, 2014, 05:30:15 pm
Post by: Nephasth on February 25, 2014, 10:53:48 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 26, 2014, 02:08:40 am
Post by: Nephasth on February 26, 2014, 08:53:45 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 26, 2014, 09:35:21 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 09, 2014, 03:46:32 am
I guess.
Now that it's not -8000° outside, the shop I'm working in is bearable to be in for more than 5 minutes.
Did a little work today on a few things. First, I've removed the plates from my joysticks to paint them black. This is mainly an esthetics thing because of the way my sticks are lit you'd see some of each plate and I wanted them to blend in.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2761/13026940995_82dd384d72_z.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/13027324114_44f9a6639d_z.jpg)
Also did a little more woodworking, mainly just getting the ledgers screwed onto the other side panel. I'm taking my sweet time doing it too, just to make sure everything will be exact and level. I still have a couple of the smaller bits to do around the top. Pieces are cut, I just need to attach them.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3207/13026935865_88fd5c99ac_c.jpg)
I wanted to get a sense of scale for the cab body, so I mocked it up on the table. Nothing fancy.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2371/13027861174_5eb3514cd5_c.jpg)
That's really it for now. Next I'm gonna slice up some plywood for the rest of the panels and order my display glass.
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 13, 2014, 04:11:29 am
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7405/13121834643_a4a349a979_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 20, 2014, 12:27:16 am
It was $40 at a local tool shop. Depending on how this part of the project goes and i might build a second. But i figure if two people are playing then they'd be standing anyways... Meh.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/13280869423_d3098f38b9_z.jpg)
First things first, lets get this branded crappy cover off and see what kinda foam is inside...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3804/13281077724_32bffb1465_z.jpg)
Seriously, too many staples. I must remember to use a crap ton of them when i install the new cover later on. Who knew the upholstery portion of my Technical Theatre Major in College would pay off in real life... and for Arcade building no less!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/13280866563_fd931bc27c_z.jpg)
It's a really cheap vinyl, and even cheaper stitching. Mind you i didn't buy it for the cushion, mainly the metal bits...
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2828/13280726345_9533833a40_z.jpg)
Now that i have the cover gutted, i can go buy a nicer fabric, cut it to size and take it across town to my buddy to have the Encom logo embroidered on it.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/13280863703_cccf718453_z.jpg)
More on this later.... ;D
Post by: mcseforsale on March 20, 2014, 12:10:49 pm
AJ
Post by: yotsuya on March 20, 2014, 12:12:45 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 20, 2014, 12:17:54 pm
I'd assume that you'd need to provide the new cover, a simple vectored logo, less then 6 colours if you wanted to keep the cost down. You figure out what you'd want, Message me and I'll ask the guy if it's possible with his current work load.
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 20, 2014, 12:19:30 pm
Waiting for the eventual Project Code Name: SitMyAssDown thread. :cheers:
HAHA! Well, this IS part of this build, so no new thread needed (pun intended). Besides, it would be called something more.... Punny.... :D
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 22, 2014, 05:11:27 pm
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3806/13337544114_fd3180b1cf_c.jpg)
because of the way this is sewn together, the cuts don't need to be exact on the money. I did a rough trace and cut a couple bits to size from the old stool cover. Now i'll take this off to my buddy's place when he has time and we'll get the Encom logo stitched on, then sew the new cover back up.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2845/13337147025_f8dc0ee580_c.jpg)
Post by: jaharr01 on March 25, 2014, 10:37:53 pm
Thanks Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 25, 2014, 11:07:26 pm
I had to order a certain pot for this, I bought it through my local electronics shop, but heres a link to the same one. (http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV122F-20-15F-A50K/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujnrmxmoUwAHF%252bYN59FdHZMkXPeiT5Ppbsfgo93XyCSYA%3d%3d)
Here's the pin outs for both the old and new pots:
OLD
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/10488393766_d05b099586_c.jpg)
New
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5528/10683715064_f1179d0b3e_o.jpg)
then wire it like this:
Old #1 to New #3,#6
Old #2 to New #2
Old #3 to New #5
Old #4 to New #1
Old #5 to New #4
its 5 wires into 6 leads. (old #1 into New #3 and 6 is the key one)
Also had to cut away at the enclosure a bit. I'm pretty sure this is how i had to wire it. something tells me during testing i had to swap a pair of wires once. couple. I really don't remember.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/13417739865_532c1b6909.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5055/13417741495_8504683e1b.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5164/13417857293_217341a2b4.jpg)
Does that help?
Post by: DarakuTenshi on March 26, 2014, 08:56:26 am
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b626/Ayce78/0941e67ca5f0189eec6b33bc5f963106_zps64645428.jpg)
Post by: jaharr01 on March 26, 2014, 10:56:27 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 26, 2014, 10:58:28 am
My brother is also doing a Flynn's theme on his cab. I thought I might share this with you if you are interested at all. I recreated this for his cab using GIMP
Cool! Thanks :D. Not sure I have a place for it tho. ... Maybe a large billboard overtop? :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 11, 2014, 02:16:07 am
;D ;D
Went inside and bought a very decent Latte. True story.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3809/13773065013_94705476a4_c.jpg)
Post by: mcseforsale on April 11, 2014, 03:34:52 pm
AJ
Post by: yotsuya on April 16, 2014, 01:55:30 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 16, 2014, 02:36:36 am
I did recive a volume knob in my SparkFun order that goes to 11, and some ribbon cable I wanna test for the RGB LED's.
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 25, 2014, 03:45:00 am
First, update on the wheel/castor situation. I ordered in the following hardware from Arcadeshop.de. I figure this is gonna be my best bet for moving this thing around if need be.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5221/13980940426_05f66b3f4c_c.jpg)
My custom I/O panels came in too. HUGE thanks to Randy for cutting these for me!
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/13980945016_bd33daa9c9_c.jpg)
One of the first things I did today when I came home from the office was to install the buttons and connections on these they look quite nice. I'm quite happy with the way theses came out.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5109/14004050345_ae5bbeb1c8_c.jpg)
Yes, the knob actually goes to 11! ;D
Post by: Nephasth on April 25, 2014, 10:04:03 am
Post by: wp34 on April 25, 2014, 10:12:44 am
Yes, the knob actually goes to 11! ;D
Nice!
Those panels are off the hook!
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 04, 2014, 07:24:33 pm
Made the holes for the small vented section of the back panel. A 5" hole saw is perfect for these 120mm fan grills.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5231/14105281121_3980f05729_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/13921912348_755363cd6e_c.jpg)
Also started some work on the CP. Major step forward on this bit...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5478/14105283901_c3f9f250df_c.jpg)
More later.
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 13, 2014, 04:24:34 am
Made some progress with the CP box. It just needs to be sanded, painted, add hinges, and the I/O panels need to be placed and attached on both front and back. Once i get this part done i'll move it back to my place to work on the wiring and controls. Theres a number of hours work to go on this bit still.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/14175572935_3ec7ed3ac7_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7435/14195681493_5c3a8df97e_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/14172254911_c8c7c96505_c.jpg)
I took a few minutes and set up the side panels and CP so i could get a sense of scale and size for the first time.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5490/13988937867_3584bc1b3d_c.jpg)
The exciting news is that there is quite a bit of room for all 4 players. The CP hight is perfect. Theres ample room for 4 people too.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/14172907122_a3bb1cb73b_c.jpg)
After i got home tonight i decided to build a little test rig for the Joystick lighting. Man am i ever glad i had the CP top cut on a CnC. just this one test rig was brutal to make. Theres no way with my tools and experience i would have made something even remotely good. CnC for the win. The idea for this test rig is to try a couple different finishes on these acrylic tube bits and see which one lights the joystick the best.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/14152402016_9a0c00a7c3_z.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/14195889183_301a74b488_c.jpg)
Thats all for now folks!
Post by: wirenut on May 13, 2014, 05:11:13 am
One of the first things I did today when I came home from the office was to install the buttons and connections on these they look quite nice. I'm quite happy with the way theses came out.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5109/14004050345_ae5bbeb1c8_c.jpg)
Yes, the knob actually goes to 11! ;D
Oh man that is sexy! Can't wait to see it on the cab. :applaud:
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 17, 2014, 06:17:02 am
First off i finally had some time to head over to my buddy's place and get this matching stool done. First step was converting the Encom logo into the proper stitch patten, a 45 degree angle. As he was doing that on his laptop i started embroidering the logo on a test piece of vinyl with a version of the logo that has a random stitch. I couldn't decide on what colour i wanted to use, White, Navy, or Grey. So this test stitch would help me decide.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/14017453028_500d281bd1_c.jpg)
Once he was done and I settled on Navy blue, we hooped a 16"x16" section of material and let the machine do its thing. I wasn't a fan of the vinyl bits i cut out previously, so i decided now that i had better tools to do it properly i'd make new cuts.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5532/14017443438_6d9da17c8a_c.jpg)
After a few minutes on the machine we were left with this, (Total stitch count 17616):
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/14204115365_3e84dc280e_c.jpg)
We needed to turn this into the round top. So we measured out the existing top, pinned down a string dead centre and held a sharpie marker as we rotated the material. This created an exact round 13" top.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/14017444638_abc24fb0ea_c.jpg)
Next we sewed the side to the top piece and fitted the cushion into place.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/14224256873_85aea1f5bf_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5035/14017452029_bd90bb9928_c.jpg)
Then i started the reupholster process...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14017479620_3bce0ce69c_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2914/14200822411_26ddc2f5c6_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5567/14204001414_83df9f37d5_c.jpg)
Not bad for the first time doing this in over 12 years. I'm quite happy with it. :)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/14017517267_10e5815a4c_c.jpg)
Next i needed to build the rest of the stool. I'm not kidding when i say these were the craziest instructions ever. NASA doesn't even have safety instructions for the Lunar Module this detailed or intense. I've left them here as clickable thumbnails for you to read if you want a good laugh. Remember: These are to build a $40 stool.... ;D
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/14017490330_fab16e93b1_t.jpg) (https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/14017490330_fab16e93b1_c.jpg) (https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/14201633162_46b0e64ae5_t.jpg) (https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/14201633162_46b0e64ae5_c.jpg) (https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5118/14017489010_53babcc364_t.jpg) (https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5118/14017489010_53babcc364_c.jpg)
I said "screw it", and i built it without reading the whole thing. I mean, how hard can it be???
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5499/14200819261_10021b550b_c.jpg)
Vola! a custom Encom stool...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/14203996184_f545acf3a3_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14204111835_f0e1fd808b_c.jpg)
Done.
Next I got back to testing the lighting for the joysticks. a butt load of RGB LED hookup wire just arrived from Singapore. It's a little messy, but it will do the trick.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5511/14017474180_39987e2cf3_c.jpg)
I wired up a couple of the RGB LED's i'm using for each stick. Nothing fancy. I made sure to use the same pinout as i did for the pushbuttons. Just to standardize everything.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14200823991_57a5c821c8_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2918/14017473600_bbd86685af_c.jpg)
This should give me a better idea of how i need to finish the joystick light rings.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/14204002544_858b717bee_c.jpg)
I wired everything up and took it for a small test drive with LEDBlinky...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5231/14200836371_fbe0396c4a_c.jpg)
http://youtu.be/mL0Q1lcqzRc (http://youtu.be/mL0Q1lcqzRc)
That's all for today. My hope is to get in to finish the construction soon so i can get to the sanding and painting.
Post by: menace on May 17, 2014, 07:22:17 am
You sir, are crazy (in a nice way :cheers:)...very cool! (and I wish I had the time, patience or money to spend on a project like this)..keep going!
Post by: emphatic on May 17, 2014, 09:17:02 am
Post by: monkeychunkuk on May 17, 2014, 01:25:54 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 17, 2014, 02:05:08 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 17, 2014, 09:14:28 pm
I've thrown them both into my test rig for consideration. One thing is for sure. there is no middle ground. it's either fully transparent or completely buffed up translucent. The other two test rings didn't make a big enough difference to be considered.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14021833107_9535aee9b1_o.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14022518637_bbc62776a6_c.jpg)
Post by: monkeychunkuk on May 18, 2014, 06:17:26 am
Post by: wirenut on May 18, 2014, 07:36:43 am
Post by: yotsuya on May 18, 2014, 01:15:57 pm
Post by: Nephasth on May 18, 2014, 08:47:38 pm
Post by: AlienInferno on May 19, 2014, 01:53:26 am
I would use the scuffed up ones on the buttons for glow. But I think the clear ones look better.
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 19, 2014, 05:24:43 am
Ah well, more updates:
Managed to get some solid time on the build tonight. I sanded down the CP box, but it's apparent it's going to need another once over with the filler.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14033528737_40ab2f0512_c.jpg)
Next i set up the router with the t-moulding bit. I tested depth a couple times with a sample of the moulding and some scraps of wood. This isn't an exact science. but i seem to have gotten decent results. I didn't cut the slot on the CP yet because i want to wait for the artwork to arrive and cut depth including that.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/14033526617_18368f3852_c.jpg)
Now it's time for the I/O panels. You guys are seriously going to hate me for this, but the plan was always to have the Power I/O on the back left of the CP overhang. I printed off a template, taped it down and got at it with a spade bit.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2926/14219913394_2b1d64f567_c.jpg)
The results were pretty good. I'm not 100% sure on how i want to mount these panels to the CP. Might go epoxy, might drill some screw holes. Can't decide, but this method i'm using to cut the holes out for the panels will let me have a choice down the road.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5160/14033466038_68194ac78e_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5112/14240292753_fe4e133b0d_c.jpg)
Also managed to get the front I/O cut out.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/14240297343_482553157c_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/14217682212_a45206de8d_c.jpg)
I also took the time to get an idea of where to mount these Euro hinges. these things can be a pain in the ass, so i skipped them and went on to the trackball mounting inserts.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/14033485937_65e17c4767_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5313/14033483757_c1d4a748ac_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5509/14240247603_c7685b3ff6_c.jpg)
Moving along, I finally managed to get that 4x8' sheet of plywood mostly cut up. I also cut up some of the smaller bits of the cab paneling. This pile of completed boards is starting to pile up. It got late so i didn't get this bit finished. Im very close to having a free standing cabinet.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/14220075955_648ea52b5e_c.jpg)
Next I took some time to figure out where the speaker grills will go.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5590/14033460470_0b37c3d89f_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5532/14217696672_0e087f9622_c.jpg)
Few more hours working on the wood and i'll be ready for the paint phase.
More to come....
Post by: emphatic on May 19, 2014, 06:30:10 am
Post by: wirenut on May 19, 2014, 09:55:57 am
Post by: AlienInferno on May 19, 2014, 10:01:04 am
Nah man. Your stuffs looking great so far. Keep it up.
Post by: yotsuya on May 19, 2014, 10:49:53 am
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Transducers are probably better suited for small bartops. With a cab, you want to turn that mother out.
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 19, 2014, 03:10:58 pm
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Transducers are probably better suited for small bartops. With a cab, you want to turn that mother out.
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Yep! The transducer is for my PacMan build.
I just recently caught the tutorial on the Griffin PowerMate mod, might have to mod one of those and adjust my plans for the front I/O.
Post by: yotsuya on May 19, 2014, 05:36:51 pm
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Transducers are probably better suited for small bartops. With a cab, you want to turn that mother out.Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Yep! The transducer is for my PacMan build.
I just recently caught the tutorial on the Griffin PowerMate mod, might have to mod one of those and adjust my plans for the front I/O.
I have a PowerMate if you can't find one.
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 19, 2014, 05:44:45 pm
Post by: JeffB13 on May 19, 2014, 06:40:35 pm
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/11883314776_4bd93345f7_c.jpg)
Where did you get these switches?
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 19, 2014, 06:44:42 pm
Ebay has them too.
Post by: wirenut on May 19, 2014, 09:11:50 pm
Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Transducers are probably better suited for small bartops. With a cab, you want to turn that mother out.Dude speakers really?? What happened to the Transducers? :dunno
Yep! The transducer is for my PacMan build.
I just recently caught the tutorial on the Griffin PowerMate mod, might have to mod one of those and adjust my plans for the front I/O.
The transducers were kind of a joke. But I am new, maybe I'm not allowed to joke yet? :dizzy:
Although if I ever get to do a dream build, there will be transducers in it. (High End Ones)
I just broke down my Power Mate yesterday. It would look really good powder coated black on your rig.
Post by: JeffB13 on May 19, 2014, 11:07:41 pm
An aliexpress.com vendor. Search for "Vandal Switch". There are MILLIONS of variations. I picked those ones out based on my needs. These were latching/momentary, 12v, blue LED, 25mm, black, single/dual polarity. The options are endless.
Ebay has them too.
Great. Thanks.
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 20, 2014, 12:13:45 am
I'm hoping the footprint of the PCB and pot on it isn't that much bigger than what I've accounted for with my plate or CP construction.
Post by: wirenut on May 20, 2014, 02:04:11 am
(http://i.imgur.com/YyvofJ4.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/URUjIJ5.png)
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 20, 2014, 09:54:25 am
I'll let you know if I need anymore. Still kicking this idea around in my head.
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 04, 2014, 04:14:17 am
I've been working hard toward the completion of the cab itself so i can get on to the paint process. Most of the panels have been cut and tonight i mocked it up to get a real sense of what this thing will be like when it built. I have a few small thing i need to do before I fully assemble the cab. Mainly the wheels on the base, but that will come next time i get a chance to go down and work on it.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/14156103288_d477e7485f_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3926/14341970844_c319d303d6_c.jpg)
Next on the list, the coin door. Pretty simple, i used a strut edge and a flush cutting bit to cut the edges, broke the middle out and then used the router to clean up the corners by hand.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2916/14342764455_af7fd3c859_c.jpg)
Fit like a glove and perfectly level. I plan on putting a 7" x 32" piece of black diamond tread plate below it.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/14339436961_eeae6bc36a_c.jpg)
I found a great deal locally on a Griffin PoweMate, so i needed to modify the front I/O panel to fit it. I was very careful with this as to not damage the hard work Randy put into making these. :)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14156279487_2c1d81e99b_c.jpg)
I lucked out big time with this, as the PoweMate PCB fits nicely around the USB cable.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/14156280917_f519f8a5cc_c.jpg)
The PowerMate will eliminate the need for me to use the modified volume controls on the logitech speakers. But in place of ditching all that work I will gain a better (and cooler) user experience, and volume control when using headphones (something the Logitech kit doesn't allow (stupid, i know). I'm going to need to make a new headphone cable with the spare panel mount i have, but this way i'll run it right to the CPU.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2915/14319641046_cbc306fe72_c.jpg)
Oh, one other cool thing: the LED on the PowerMate. I've chosen to keep it on the back of the PCB rather than to risk damage by desoldering it. Instead I'm gonna use one of these little Lego fibre optic pieces. I'll glue the fat end to the LED then drill a hole in the top centre of the panel and insert the other end. I just need to get myself a small enough drill bit first.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14339442561_f7860677d0_c.jpg)
I was planning to epoxy these panels to the CP, but now that i realize how easy it is to drill into them, i might use some cool looking finishing screws i have for the fan grills. We'll see.
Post by: wirenut on June 04, 2014, 04:36:15 am
Post by: jaharr01 on June 04, 2014, 07:38:15 am
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 05, 2014, 03:08:43 am
More updates: I had a couple hours to kill so I thought I'd tackle the wheels. First I built up some wood and slowly milled away at it with the router.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3899/14163470379_249b6de05d_c.jpg)
It's not the best looking job, but because it's being covered up by the wheel bracket, I don't really care...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/14163469069_e7595be0d6_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/14163541590_cde9a7ef70_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/14327012536_02fdac0575_c.jpg)
Heres a shot with the wheels installed.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14163656947_bd23870a91_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5034/14327013996_53d81580e1_c.jpg)
I'm pretty much ready to assemble the whole thing, that will come next. Then the paint/finish process, then I'll move the build here for final assembly of all the bits and pieces.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 05, 2014, 03:42:08 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 05, 2014, 03:44:43 pm
The crappy router bits I'm using are a bit of a liability. The bearing came off on my flush trim bit when I was doing the one well and it took a bite out of the wrong section of wood. Oh well, the wheel plate covered it up :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 07, 2014, 08:40:42 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3873/14362257911_fcb184a499_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5585/14179120577_979340554c_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2908/14179024860_0f52449831_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5311/14342500736_138ac013a5_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2924/14342508526_44731b0710_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3891/14385763053_7705bac63d_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14179113757_898fb94a43_c.jpg)
[
Post by: mcseforsale on June 07, 2014, 10:32:39 am
KIDDING! THAT THING IS AWESOME!! That panel work is amazing!
AJ
Post by: Nephasth on June 07, 2014, 11:39:53 am
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2908/14179024860_0f52449831_c.jpg)
Looks like you might have some marquee shadow issues.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 07, 2014, 11:45:23 am
Plus, you can use some CCFLs which can overlap.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14551/lit-305/Logisys_6_Dual_Cold_Cathode_Kit_-_White.html?tl=g6c75s1570 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14551/lit-305/Logisys_6_Dual_Cold_Cathode_Kit_-_White.html?tl=g6c75s1570)
That's what I'm running and there's no shadows.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_4186.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/IMG_4186.jpg.html)
AJ
Post by: jaharr01 on June 07, 2014, 02:00:30 pm
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 07, 2014, 03:22:07 pm
No, I have not tried auto body filler, but I hear bondo goes good on burgers.
Mmm, yes, shadows in the marquee. I've been thinking about that since this whole thing was still on the drawing board. It should really only be an issue on the right side, as the left side of the marquee is pitch black anyways. The plan was always to line the box with aluminum reflective tape like I did the coin return buttons. I'm also using a Groovy Game Gear LED Marquee light, so I'll be able to experiment moving sections of it around to get the best fill with the light.
..."opaque"? Didn't we already have this discussion? :D I'm planning on sourcing some kind of diffuser if need be. Depending on how bad it is I might use a sheet of velum to break up the light. Meh, we'll cross that road when we get there. For now I'm glad to have the paneling done. :)
Post by: jaharr01 on June 07, 2014, 06:51:51 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 07, 2014, 06:57:39 pm
I have a that bartop I need to finish as well. But I have a two player FullSize using the same side panels as this one, a deticated cab for my Super PlayChoice project, and I really want to do a DonkyKong cab (maybe with a twist). I have thought about a VPin but it's more of a nice to have than a must.
Post by: jaharr01 on June 07, 2014, 07:07:09 pm
Post by: jaharr01 on June 07, 2014, 07:19:50 pm
Jay
Post by: mcseforsale on June 08, 2014, 10:53:14 pm
AJ
There was a guy where I live and I saw he had 2 arcade machines in the back of his truck. He didn't seem like the restorer type, but I waited several days and asked him about them. Apparently he was moving into a building and it had around 75 arcade games sitting all dusty in storage. You name it, it was probably there. He didn't know if they worked or not. He was giving them away, I about fainted. but then he said he promised them to a guy about an hour away. He said if I would have come a day or so earlier he would have gave them to me.I even offered to buy them but he said he promised them to the guy and he wasn't going to back out. What a shame, but I did avoid a divorce by not bringing them home.
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 09, 2014, 05:00:46 am
Ugh, rough night. Decided I'd get a few things done for the build. I managed to get the four light rings for my joysticks scuffed up. I decided on a soft light for each just seems to look a bit more clean. Next, I modified the I/O panels, added screw holes, and added the LED light hole on the front I/O for the little lego bit. I broke the corner off the front one adding it's screw holes. It was a bad feeling. I was able to glue it back together, but it looks less than perfect so I might have another one made, maybe this time with some improvements to the design now that I switched to the PowerMate.
Also, I needed to move and reinforce the USB cable from the top to the back of the PowerMate PCB. Unless you have experience with soldering wires 30 AWG and smaller, don't do this. Just don't. Save your sanity.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5275/14357807066_b0636aecb8_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14194282009_ab701bba98_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3849/14194310888_82e90b9bab_c.jpg)
After I made sure to test it, and it does work, but it was nerve-racking.
I'm in the planning stages of the paint process. Over the next week I should get some time in the shop. There are a few more bits of construction I need to get done, hinges, mount the CP, the rear panels, etc. Then I can begin the paint stage. My vinyl art should be here any day now. Quite exciting.
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 13, 2014, 04:07:48 am
Had some time in the shop today to clean up a few loose ends. First the hidden access door on the front. Nothing crazy, just mounted the hinges.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5159/14407432551_e96d41b97a_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/14409502462_c061d37297_c.jpg)
Next, because I'm a bit of a perfectionist, I made a simple jig for cutting the marquee bracket.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3869/14430969093_ffeea8b134_c.jpg)
I cut up a large sheet of acrylic and trimmed it to fit, then I made a small jig for the marquee mounting holes. Then test fitted the bracket and the marquee backing plastic. I'm definitely going to need a good diffuser on this.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5313/14224196088_4d8917754b_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14387677156_68a329b5ab_c.jpg)
I have started collecting supplies for the spray booth I'll need to build, 500sq foot roll of lightweight plasticky, and a bunch of 2x3's. I love the looks I get at Home Depot when I shove 80 feet of lumber into a small ford focus. I love my car :)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5528/14224152239_7b3769f70f_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2936/14430977163_33877e047f_c.jpg)
I managed to do a small paint test too. I did three coats of a dark color plus primer on a scrap bit of the same wood, sanded with 280 grit in between. Looks good. I think I'm gonna go with a matte finish. The whole cab will be black, but I'm not going to do multiple coats on ever inch of it, just the areas outside the cab. I figure a couple more trips to the shop for the odd woodworking bit and than it's on to the spraying.
Construction things left to do:
-mount the CP
-cut/mount the two rear access panels
-Figure out the CP top hinge situation
-Drill access holes for all the wiring
-Enlarge front I/O panel hole in the CP to account for the increased size of the PowerMate.
-build paint booth.
I'm gonna try to get most of this done over the weekend. I want to get on with the painting and bring it home for the next phase!
Post by: Generic Eric on June 13, 2014, 02:51:50 pm
What a shame, but I did avoid aFIXTdivorcecomplete arcade by not bringing them home.
Jay
First the hidden access door on the front. Nothing crazy, just mounted the hinges.
Will there be a pull out tray behind that access door?
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 13, 2014, 02:55:04 pm
Post by: Generic Eric on June 13, 2014, 03:22:11 pm
Nope. Although the tray would be a more elegant solution over the silly and awkward drawers that people put under the CP. For the future if I plan on putting light guns on the cab I'll hide them in here with cable retractors.
One of the Dynamo cabinets had a pull out tray that held the power supply and game board on the same piece
Post by: EMDB on June 13, 2014, 04:00:16 pm
Nope. Although the tray would be a more elegant solution over the silly and awkward drawers that people put under the CP. For the future if I plan on putting light guns on the cab I'll hide them in here with cable retractors.A drawer is just an elegant tray >:D
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 13, 2014, 07:16:45 pm
Post by: wirenut on June 13, 2014, 09:59:11 pm
Also, I needed to move and reinforce the USB cable from the top to the back of the PowerMate PCB. Unless you have experience with soldering wires 30 AWG and smaller, don't do this. Just don't. Save your sanity.
I'm with you man. I moved my wires around, but did not reinforce while I "tested" and then I ended up braking one of the already soldered wires. :hissy:
Not looking forward to re-soldering it. :banghead:
Post by: thrasherx on June 13, 2014, 10:25:47 pm
Post by: jaharr01 on June 13, 2014, 10:47:45 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 14, 2014, 02:17:11 am
Not looking forward to re-soldering it. :banghead:
Yeah, be patient, especially the green and white wires. Just take your time, use new solder, and then use a ton of hot glue after when you know it works.
May i ask Chance is this a permanent spray booth or is it just for this cab? i wondered because there are easier and cheaper ways of spray painting without a spray booth. Aren't you going to have full vinyl on the side anyway?
Few reasons, A. To many things in that garage that done belong to me and we don't want to get any spray on. Added help with the dust (tack cloths too, yep those are part of the plan) it's quite dusty in there, I don't really mind spending the money,(already did, it was a drop in the bucket really) and it's not like I can't repurpose the lumber again after. :)
The cab is coming along nicely. I may have to borrow your speaker panel and marquee design. I've been running (mental) circles trying to figure out those two things. It seems as though our builds are very similar. Yours is cleaner. I debated using plywood vs mdf. Cheers.
Meh, I'm more of an plywood kinda guy. Borrow away, if you have any questions that's part of the reason I'm writing this build log. Just let me know.
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 16, 2014, 01:28:49 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14425364592_738b6d4c90_c.jpg)
I did manage to make a huge mess with the wood filler. Meh. it sanded off. When i was drilling the hole for the receptacle i managed to have a decent blowout on the back side of the wood. I've gotta admit, i really wasn't paying much attention to detail on this part. kinda a last second addition and i just wanted it done.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3857/14240212277_d5b12c877c_c.jpg)
Next came the back panels. I had to go out and get another $80 sheet of birch to finish the upper one because i had screwed up a couple times trying to cut it to size. The fence on the table saw i'm working with only goes up to 25". and twice i tried to cut on the opposite side of the blade and screwed up with the kerf. It was stupid and irresponsible of me, and as my punishment i had to pay for more wood and now have quite a bit extra laying around. I'll use it for another project one of these days...
To attach the back panels i've opted to bolt them on rather than putting them on hinges. pretty simple system here. Once the panels were cut to size i used a small forstner bit to drill through the panel and the rails. I had bought threaded inserts for the rail side, but it's a pain in the butt to get them to line up square when i attempted on a test piece. so i'm going to do a little more research on this bit. I need to paint the thing still anyways, so its fine if i add them later.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3867/14240069478_5be953c640_c.jpg)[/url]
Next i tackled mounting the CP. I'm pretty proud of this part of the design. Simple, basic and it also doubles as a rail to hold the display glass. I wasn't planning on drilling through the side panels, but for something that needed to be as sturdy as the CP mount i made an exception. Six 3" deck screws later...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/14240026879_cfe1bc85b0_c.jpg)
Here's a closeup of the rabbit i put on the edge to hold the display glass. I made sure it was a couple millimetres lower then the side panel CP outcroppings. this way i can have a snug fit with the CP and the side panels in case theres any warping in the wood, now or down the road.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5112/14240078559_d72e69c275_c.jpg)
Once i was happy with the base, i lined up the CP centre with the cab, clamped it down and used the same small forester bit to cut holes through the CP and mounting board. The bolts shown in the picture are just temporary ones i had in case i went with a thicker mounting board. I need to get shorter ones or cut these down.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3863/14423385391_82e4671deb_c.jpg)
In order to get the cables from the CP to the rest of the cab i'm going to need access :) Using a 2.5" hole saw i cut right through the CP into the mounting panel. the depth of the saw wasn't enough to clear both pieces, so i removed the CP and then even needed to use a chisel to remove more material for the saw to be able to finish the job.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14423397731_d422cbf0e1_c.jpg)
The results look pretty good...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14240130048_33bf9b6fcc_c.jpg)
i also took into account cable management when deciding on the location for the hole. I want to make sure it was large enough, didn't compromise rigidity and structure (too much), and also that there would be decent room for cable tie downs.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/14425609734_5cea9c102e_c.jpg)
This also reminded me i'm going to need to be able to run cables between the upper and lower sections of the cab (duh...) :D So i drilled a smaller access hole. For good measure i also added one that leads to the underside of the cab, just in case i ever need it.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/14426743715_85d1284322_c.jpg)
Continuing on drilling access holes, as a last minute addition i made one on the back of the display mount panel. I could have just run the cable under the mounting bracket, but this just seemed cleaner and more in line with the design to me. plus now i can access the I/O on the back of the TV without having to pull off the display glass. Speaking of display glass, also shown in this picture is a chunk of cardboard i'm using to mock up how the glass will work. I've designed it so the TV can sit a little lower reducing the overall height of the cab, but when standing at the CP you can still see the whole screen without obstruction.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3843/14240280377_bf6654e05e_c.jpg)
Now the Great news: This progress means i'm now 100% done cab construction and can move on to the paint stage!!
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/14240133228_9e4d9799fd_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/14446921983_b5bfba9d75_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14425616404_c41cd48447_c.jpg)
Woooo! :applaud:
A bit of a crossroads here: Something has come up and i'll be relocating my build to a new location. I made this decision based on a number of factors. A buddy of mine just moved into a new place and has a much larger garage space thats not being used and has offered the space for me to use. There will be more room to build a better paint booth and much less dust. I came to this decision after starting construction on the temporary both in the following pictures. Later this week i'll be relocating (it's like down the street too. I'm going to be wheeling the cab four blocks through the suburb rather then borrowing a truck. ;D) Definitely a sight to see.
I'm gonna call BS on Dexter (yes, i know it was a TV show... ::) ). But there is no way one guy could put up that much plastic for his kill rooms in a timely manor and not leave any evidence. wrapping that table took me 30 minutes alone! ok... it was also 3 in the morning....
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14423396561_f97daaf418_c.jpg)
My ol'skool Crasftman staple gun crapped out on me too. i was like 4 staples in on the outer layer and the thing gave up. Thankfully i figured i just needed to tap the front of it in with a hammer between staples. Time consuming. but it got the job done. Its old, from like the mid 80's so it's had a good run.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14426748805_4e5d34db5c_c.jpg)
Overall i'm happy i wasted time building this booth. Really, I am. Later this week i get to tear it down and build a better one down the street. :)
Next I'll need to remove the door hardware, do some sanding, and mask off everything.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3904/14446931493_674b9e3917_c.jpg)
All in all i'm quite relived to be done the construction. Its really cool to have something physically in front of me thats been only in my mind until now. And for it to all work as planned! I've also realized that this build process is an extremely enjoyable part of the hobby. Taking time to do things properly, or to a certain standard, and not just rush something to get it in a half finished but playable state. This is one hell of a hobby.
by the time i got outta there this morning it was 5:10am and the sun had started to come up. a Solid 12 hours of work. I decided to spend my Sunday morning sleeping in till noon ;D but i did get one hell of a sunrise on the drive home...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14432425144_21f8733eca_c.jpg)
Post by: jaharr01 on June 16, 2014, 04:30:17 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 16, 2014, 04:32:00 pm
It was more pink then red. Now it's been raining for two days. Calgary weather.... Yeah.
The vinyl artwork came in today..... More on this when I get home.
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 17, 2014, 03:15:21 am
I've dealt with a lot of printing companies in my time and Brad's service and experience trumps them all. Seriously, a guy with this many years experience in the industry, AND an arcade builder himself, that's a win.
He was always there to answer my questions, and address my concerns. He Knows his stuff and has a great customer service ethic. Most importantly: I'm picky as hell, and he patiently put up with that. I will continue to do any and all work I need printed through Brad.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3863/14255483690_5c8c366bc8_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5546/14255454519_198dc088e1_c.jpg)
Post by: jaharr01 on June 17, 2014, 10:01:14 am
Post by: HaRuMaN on June 17, 2014, 10:04:08 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 17, 2014, 10:40:23 am
Lucian045
Post by: yotsuya on June 17, 2014, 10:42:35 am
Post by: jaharr01 on June 17, 2014, 12:25:21 pm
Post by: mattgold on June 17, 2014, 04:45:28 pm
Post by: jaharr01 on June 17, 2014, 11:02:07 pm
Post by: Gatsu on June 18, 2014, 12:38:22 am
Keep it up man. Looking great! :afro:
Post by: thrasherx on June 18, 2014, 12:59:10 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 18, 2014, 03:41:25 am
About how much did that birch run you per board if you don't mind me asking?
Keep it up man. Looking great! :afro:
Thanks. Do you mean the cost of the 3 initial 4x8 sheets, the two smaller ¼ sheets i bought or the $83 sheet i bought last week because i measured incorrectly and got screwed by the kerf? The two small sheets were $20 each, and the initial three were like $60 each.
Post by: yotsuya on June 18, 2014, 11:34:34 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14425616404_c41cd48447_c.jpg)
Woooo! :applaud:
I love the kickstand on the back. Is that a Canadian thing? >:D
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 18, 2014, 12:19:47 pm
No, I havn't installed the threaded inserts for the back panels yet and that was needed to hold it up for the picture. I'm not happy with the inserts I bought so I needed new ones.
Reminds me, I need to go to the hardware store...
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 19, 2014, 02:57:37 am
I'm really going to like this new venue. Nine foot ceilings, all open space. I'm extremely lucky to have friends with the space I need and are willing to help me with this build. I'm pretty busy at work over the next few days, and it's really wet and crapy outside this week but as soon as I get some free time I'll get the new paint booth setup and put some solid time into the paint and finish of this cab. I'm ready to get the next phase of this build going.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3922/14470071873_42f1a69609_c.jpg)
Post by: jaharr01 on June 19, 2014, 03:13:55 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14425616404_c41cd48447_c.jpg)
Woooo! :applaud:
I love the kickstand on the back. Is that a Canadian thing? >:D
Hey Yotsuya, that kickstand came off his car okay.
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 19, 2014, 03:25:39 am
It's not like I drive a Kia.
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 22, 2014, 04:18:05 am
So, this week has been quite busy at work. Come to think of it I'm in one of the two busiest periods I get a year. Finding time to work on the cab hasn't really been much trouble though. If anything I'm finding that making progress on it is a great way to chill out from a busy week. Mind you, I don't normally do much work on this during F1 race weekends to be honest...
First and foremost I needed to get set up in my new location. I needed to build a new paint booth and get organized. I also used this time to separate all my tools and supplies I used for the construction phase and get them out of the way. Thankfully this time I had some help and a taller working space. ;D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3883/14468018211_1265135124_c.jpg)
The booth is pretty solid, I'm loving this new space. I'll have room to paint inside, then open the garage and sand just outside. This is important because now I can focus on getting a better finish on the wood. All I need to do next is build in the ventilation system.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2900/14284771800_b037d6720a_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14284803858_59e2c330da_c.jpg)
My plan of attack is simple. Finish the wood, then use Rust-oleum painters touch. One or two base coats, depending on coverage. Then two to three coats of black on any of the external panels, and then a coat of satin varnish. Proper sanding between coats. Any of the internal sections will get a simple base coat of primer and a single coat of black, simple.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/14284807388_3db1456fc5_c.jpg)
I also plan on leaving the t-moulding slots bare. So I split some masking tape and covered the slots along the side panels and cp edge. You have no idea how hard it is to find ½" masking tape. The ¾" stuff had to do. And it worked well. There's no real reason for painting the sides other than I want a nice black edge just in case I don't get good coverage with the molding and the side art.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3922/14448288086_1dab4410ee_c.jpg)
I pretty much left it at that for the night. My next step will be to sand and prep all the surfaces. I picked up a new 5" orbital sander and some discs to help with the job. I wanted to get an idea of coverage a couple weeks ago so I slowly painted a test piece. I was quite happy with the finish and can't wait to do the whole cab.
Tonight I shifted my focus to the replacement of my "kickstand". I picked up a few different options for wood inserts and did a bit of research on proper installation techniques. I built a few small test bits to figure out what the best option is and get some practice using them before committing to my cab. Especially with my first tests a couple weeks ago, and how crooked and brutal the results were.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3880/14477106022_c52a07b932_c.jpg)
Strange enough, I've decided to go with the original inserts I chose before, (the ones that look like they need a flathead driver to install). Fun fact: I'm an idiot and if I don't know how to use a particular bit of hardware I should ask or look it up. That slot is not for a flathead screwdriver. Crazy, I know. Apparently it's a groove to help the insert drive into the wood. The more you know. The general consensus for installing these bad boys is to use a bolt and a couple nuts. Cut the head from the bolt and lock the two nuts on. Thread the insert onto the bolt and use your drill to slowly drive the insert into your work piece. Who knew?! I had been using a flathead driver like a chump.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2926/14291942417_c73189742f_c.jpg)
I'm going to take this one step further. Using the female end to the vanity bolt you see on the left, I'm going to help guide the insert in square with the ledger board. I'll need to test it a couple more times to make sure I can get it set properly. But I'm finally confident that I have a solid solution.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3922/14291808588_9f7707a269_c.jpg)
That's pretty much it for now. I'm getting pretty excited, this is all coming together pretty much as I had planned it. Might still add a pair of pinball buttons. Maybe I'll add a couple matching CLASSX leaf buttons to each side of the CP box. I was thinking of a couple of those contactors to give that "chunk" sound a flipper makes too. At the very least it's a future upgrade on the shelf with those light guns I want to add.
Post by: jaharr01 on June 22, 2014, 10:38:01 am
Oh hey look!.... An update. ;D
My plan of attack is simple. Finish the wood, then use Rust-oleum painters touch. One or two base coats, depending on coverage. Then two to three coats of black on any of the external panels, and then a coat of satin varnish. Proper sanding between coats. Any of the internal sections will get a simple base coat of primer and a single coat of black, simple.
Are you gonna paint that big ass cabinet with 3 cans of paint? You better get about 15.
I also plan on leaving the t-moulding slots bare. So I split some masking tape and covered the slots along the side panels and cp edge. You have no idea how hard it is to find ½" masking tape. The ¾" stuff had to do. And it worked well. There's no real reason for painting the sides other than I want a nice black edge just in case I don't get good coverage with the molding and the side art.
Not a bad idea I didn't do that and I about never got the T molding in
I pretty much left it at that for the night. My next step will be to sand and prep all the surfaces. I picked up a new 5" orbital sander and some discs to help with the job. I wanted to get an idea of coverage a couple weeks ago so I slowly painted a test piece. I was quite happy with the finish and can't wait to do the whole cab.
I use this sander a lot http://www.target.com/p/black-decker-mouse-detail-sander-with-dust-colts/-/A-12445486?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=google_pla_df&LNM=12445486&CPNG=Unassigned&kpid=12445486&LID=13pgs&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=12445486&gclid=CN6ozZLYjb8CFbRj7AodZUAA3w (http://www.target.com/p/black-decker-mouse-detail-sander-with-dust-colts/-/A-12445486?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=google_pla_df&LNM=12445486&CPNG=Unassigned&kpid=12445486&LID=13pgs&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=12445486&gclid=CN6ozZLYjb8CFbRj7AodZUAA3w) it is good for getting back into tight spots
Check out my updated artwork draft for my pin that Brad did on my project page it looks awesome. Your build is awesome Chance I can't wait to see it finished.
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 22, 2014, 02:22:04 pm
Yeah I have more paint, this was just a picture I took of the three types I'm using.
Yeah, I saw your revised art, Brad does good work.
Post by: jaharr01 on June 22, 2014, 08:17:26 pm
Post by: yotsuya on June 22, 2014, 08:32:03 pm
I also plan on leaving the t-moulding slots bare. So I split some masking tape and covered the slots along the side panels and cp edge. You have no idea how hard it is to find ½" masking tape. The ¾" stuff had to do. And it worked well. There's no real reason for painting the sides other than I want a nice black edge just in case I don't get good coverage with the molding and the side art.
I try to do this on all my builds, too. :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 24, 2014, 06:13:59 am
I'm extremely satisfied with my solution for these inserts. This will work amazingly well. And the moment I get it all painted we're gonna put this practice into play.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3839/14299830899_b76c0acef7_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/14486445245_43a417c4b2_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3837/14485214424_32a00df761_c.jpg)
Next, a smaller, but still important part: the bolts for my CP. 3inch were just perfect. Mind you in this picture I don't have the cp attached, but you get the idea.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14463343126_74506a2fae_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5078/14483076431_4c3f19b4dc_c.jpg)
Speaking of my CP box and paint...
After a long and through sanding process with 220 grit I masked off anything I didn't want to get covered in paint.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2904/14299824229_a0bb636db3_c.jpg)
A few days ago as a test I had already started painting the inside of the box then sanded it with 220. I'm using tack cloth after sanding to pick up loose debris and help clean the surface before applying coats of paint.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14299813010_9616d36420_c.jpg)
Base coat on the CP, access door, and lower back panel is done.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/14483077861_b6e98a4400_c.jpg)
I have a 5 day weekend coming up with Canada day. I plan to do an all out marathon on this paint job. More to come. ;D
Post by: jaharr01 on June 24, 2014, 07:30:53 am
Jay
Post by: Malenko on June 24, 2014, 08:09:54 am
I nee to make me a paint booth like that for my garage.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 24, 2014, 10:15:24 am
They squandered their pole, but great finish for them.
Also, Nico rocks!
AJ
Post by: HaRuMaN on June 24, 2014, 10:25:38 am
Post by: yotsuya on June 24, 2014, 10:35:46 am
I hate it when I squander my pole...
You been sleeping on the couch again? >:D
Post by: HaRuMaN on June 24, 2014, 10:45:15 am
I hate it when I squander my pole...
You been sleeping on the couch again? >:D
Not lately!
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 24, 2014, 12:51:47 pm
YEAH paint!!! your in the home stretch Chance.Thanks, but not even close. I'm highly detail orientated remember. :)
Just played catch up with this thread, making great leaps in the progress! I love the barstool, really takes it over the top. :applaud:
I nee to make me a paint booth like that for my garage.
I figure it's the little things that will make this build. I like the little things.
There's nothing bigger.
Go Massa/Bottas/Williams!
They squandered their pole, but great finish for them.
Also, Nico rocks!
AJ
Heresy! McLaren for life. I was raised a McLaren fan, I will die a McLaren fan.
There will be almost no catching those Silver Arrows this year I'm afraid. But the future holds a Honda power train and another set of championships for Woking. Mark my words.
I hate it when I squander my pole...
...apparently there's a cream for that.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 24, 2014, 03:44:59 pm
I say bring back the V10s. I saw them at the Can GP at CGP in Montreal in '01 and they were amazing.
AJ
Post by: jaharr01 on June 24, 2014, 07:14:58 pm
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 24, 2014, 08:05:56 pm
Anyways. I'm quite excited to get some time this weekend to work on the paint. I'm crossing my fingers that I can get it all out of the way so I can bring it home and start the component installation phase.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 25, 2014, 01:15:56 pm
I'm not sure RBR was scrutinized properly during their 4 WCs. Something about how they were able to accelerate out of corners when everyone wasn't was a bit funny.
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 25, 2014, 02:50:37 pm
Williams is strong, they will do well. Hulk needs to show what he can do too and not just live off his past.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 25, 2014, 02:59:18 pm
I really want to see Massa back. Taking that spring to the forehead at ~178mph was almost his death. Then to have Ferrari baste him with team orders, let Alonso take point after point after clearly being slower, then let him go....I want to see him put his foot right up Stefano's ass for that this year.
AJ
Post by: yotsuya on June 25, 2014, 03:00:02 pm
Post by: mcseforsale on June 25, 2014, 03:02:28 pm
What does all this talk have to do with the kickstand on the back of this cabinet? >:D
Post by: yotsuya on June 25, 2014, 03:03:38 pm
Everything. It has everything to do with the kickstand on the back of this cabinet.
(http://karlmac.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/ysjIk.gif)
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 25, 2014, 07:49:00 pm
I really want to see Massa back. Taking that spring to the forehead at ~178mph was almost his death. Then to have Ferrari baste him with team orders, let Alonso take point after point after clearly being slower, then let him go....I want to see him put his foot right up Stefano's ass for that this year.
Funny story, My buddy's Family is really in good with the folks at Ferrari and he was in the pit/paddock the race before Massa had his accident ('09 German GP). At the end of a session Massa got out of his car took off his helmet, signed it and gave it to my buddy's dad. It's on display at their place, but you have to wonder what would have happened in Hungary if Massa hadn't given up THAT exact helmet....
Obviously I know they get a new one every race and have multiple during a race weekend. But still. :D
Post by: mcseforsale on June 25, 2014, 10:48:14 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 25, 2014, 10:57:10 pm
I was at Montreal a couple years ago for Hamilton's last Canada win for McLaren, and it was my first F1 race in person. So that was a pretty big deal. We've got family on the in-laws side that go to Montreal, Austin, and some Indy races every year. What I really want to get my hands on are some one-to-one replicas of some McLaren Helmets. Like a 2012 Button, the one from Suzuka with the dragons all over it, and the 2014 K-Mag with "Johnnie Walker" around the crown. We know a guy who knows a guy, and if it wasn't for this Flynn's build I would have started my collection. You can get signed visors on ebay too, so you get the replica helmet and then find the matching visor and it's a solid win.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 25, 2014, 11:01:30 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 28, 2014, 02:08:30 am
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2900/14337555567_78769b13f6_c.jpg)
Sanded down the primer smooth then started the first bit of black on the CP parts, the door, and one of the rear panels.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3904/14337396879_c7b82d70e2_c.jpg)
As planed over the next few days I'm gonna try and get as much painting done as possible. As soon as the CP is painted I'm gonna bring it home and start work on it, vinyl, controls, t-molding, hardware, wiring.
Post by: jaharr01 on June 28, 2014, 05:41:37 am
Jay
Post by: mcseforsale on June 28, 2014, 09:07:17 am
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 28, 2014, 05:26:00 pm
Never though I'd admit to that.
Final coat of the CP top is on. As soon as it's dry it's gonna get a quick, light, sand. Then a clear coat on one side. The CP box and two other panels in the booth will all get a light sand and go for another round of black tomorrow.
Once these parts are out of the way I'll start on the main cab, and the upper back panel.
I'd have pictures for you, but no one wants to see me sitting here with a beer doing nothing but surfing The Chive waiting for the next coat. ...this is how I'll spend the next three days.
I'm gonna need another case of beer!
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 28, 2014, 05:32:58 pm
...I tell you the next cab I build I am going to get a HVLP gun. I could have bought 20 of them in the amount of spray paint cans I've bought...
I had the same thought pass through my head holding a full basket of cans, staring at the wall of sprayers. Meh. Yeah, next time.
I find the mask helps offset the dizzy buzz you get when you mix paint fumes and a couple drinks. I need the few brain cells I have left from all the years of getting shot in the head on the Paintball field.
Post by: yotsuya on June 28, 2014, 06:40:38 pm
...I tell you the next cab I build I am going to get a HVLP gun. I could have bought 20 of them in the amount of spray paint cans I've bought...
I had the same thought pass through my head holding a full basket of cans, staring at the wall of sprayers. Meh. Yeah, next time.
I find the mask helps offset the dizzy buzz you get when you mix paint fumes and a couple drinks. I need the few brain cells I have left from all the years of getting shot in the head on the Paintball field.
"Calgary man found with spray can in one hand and a bottle of Elsinore in the other in some some of auto-erotic asphyxiation booth, news at 11" :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 28, 2014, 06:45:02 pm
...oh. Added points for the Strange Brew reference. :D
Post by: yotsuya on June 28, 2014, 06:50:41 pm
...oh. Added points for the Strange Brew reference. :D
90% of what I know about your people I learned from that movie. The other 10% comes from mike boss. :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 28, 2014, 06:54:22 pm
Wait! ...who you callin' "You People"!?
Post by: ViriiGuy on June 28, 2014, 07:37:05 pm
Post by: jaharr01 on June 29, 2014, 12:50:52 am
Jay
Post by: emphatic on June 29, 2014, 04:32:59 am
90% of what I know about your people I learned from that movie.
+1. Also learned how to get free movie tickets by using a huge glass bottle filled with moths.
Post by: mcseforsale on June 29, 2014, 12:44:50 pm
Damnation Chance throw some paint on that thing. You build arcades like old people screw**** SLOW AND SLOPPY. Get u a 12 pack of brew with a little paint high stay up all night and get that thing painted. Those runs will sand out. No I'm just kidding It's gonna be awesome.
Jay
FIFY ^^
Subscribed.
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 29, 2014, 02:47:55 pm
Here's a look at the finish for the external panels:
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14535166242_75bea4ee1e_c.jpg)
And here's a look at the plain finish I'm using on interior surfaces.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3916/14536130205_3c122d82c4_c.jpg)
Post by: mcseforsale on June 29, 2014, 02:52:07 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 30, 2014, 12:33:11 am
There's something quite satisfying about pealing masking tape off a surface after it's been painted.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14559876793_ab62194178_c.jpg)
Post by: BGoulette on June 30, 2014, 03:51:00 am
Paint looks nice! :D
Post by: ViriiGuy on June 30, 2014, 06:19:39 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 30, 2014, 07:02:27 am
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/14355148520_9e9a5807eb_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 30, 2014, 07:04:17 am
Crazy Cannuck.. you can't build a Tron cabinet.. that is American.. Now go change your theme to Bob and Doug Mackenzie, or Red Green. ;).
Only 25% of the judges on America's Got Talent are even American. Your argument is invalid.
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 30, 2014, 07:15:33 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/14540719082_12c9d9c992_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2934/14518571886_3154f3e4ef_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14540723162_40ccfc4064_c.jpg)
Did a quick test fit with the trackball and some of the buttons.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5582/14355221857_3b84570d52_c.jpg)
Wouldn't mind replacing that trackball with something a little less "white".
Post by: PL1 on June 30, 2014, 07:19:34 am
Now go change your theme to Bob and Doug Mackenzie, or Red Green. ;).Gotta admit that a Red Green cab with duct tape sideart and/or t-molding would be pretty funny. :duckhunt
Scott
Post by: PL1 on June 30, 2014, 07:32:51 am
Wouldn't mind replacing that trackball with something a little less "white".You might consider getting a clear translucent ball instead.
Check Rodney's B/S/T thread here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129928.0.html).
Scott
Post by: ViriiGuy on June 30, 2014, 08:58:28 am
Crazy Cannuck.. you can't build a Tron cabinet.. that is American.. Now go change your theme to Bob and Doug Mackenzie, or Red Green. ;).
Only 25% of the judges on America's Got Talent are even American. Your argument is invalid.
They just put that show on to make the Canadians feel better about themselves :)
I kid I kid.. I lived for 10 LONG years in Nova Scotia :D
Post by: ViriiGuy on June 30, 2014, 09:16:46 am
Someone needs to find an old Atari cab and build a "Galactic Border Patrol".
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/14355148520_9e9a5807eb_c.jpg)
Ya know.... I might just have to do this next :D if I don't do the Ond Designed Cocktail cabinet.
Post by: KevinFlynn on June 30, 2014, 09:34:50 am
"Yeah. OK, well, uh, we found, uh, this mouse in a bottle of YOUR BEER, eh. Like, we was at a party and, uh, a friend of ours -a COP - had some, and HE PUKED. And he said, uh, come here and get free beer or, uh, he'll press charges."
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 01, 2014, 12:13:25 am
You might consider getting a clear translucent ball instead...
Thanks Scott! Yeah, clear might be the way to go. They seem a little pricey right now tho. But I might have an idea.
In the mean time, I got some decent hours in the paint booth today. I've moved on to the final things to paint, the Cab itself and the upper back access panel.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14361245998_8edecac667_c.jpg)
First I laid down a decent couple coats of primer. Any exterior surface got a little extra pass. After that I patched up a few spots I missed with the DryDex, then a decent sanding.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14361187690_101acd8509_c.jpg)
A few more trips back and forth from sanding then back into the booth. If order to save paint, money and sanity the internal surfaces and side panels where the vinyl art goes just received a basic primer and one coat of black.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/14544443631_4916815867_c.jpg)
I'm gonna let it dry overnight then give it a bit more sanding in a few areas I want to touch up. There was a bit of buildup and drip in a couple places, so once I get that taken care of then it will be a couple coats of the satin clear coat. After that we should be done with the paint process!
Post by: ViriiGuy on July 01, 2014, 05:20:31 am
You may be able to find a clear 3 inch ball at your local hobby store, for CHEAP.
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 01, 2014, 03:09:06 pm
Post by: jaharr01 on July 01, 2014, 03:38:08 pm
Good call! Acrylic contact juggling balls. I've found a few 3" ones from around $16-$22. Should be exactly what I need. Thanks! :)
Now Chance that is just being ridiculous why do you want your arcade cabinet to juggle. If you do make it juggle you will have to move your post to the automated projects thread. Looks great Chance. Brad's printing my graphics tomorrow, i'm pumped.
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 01, 2014, 03:41:25 pm
Local hobby shop should have an order of them in a couple weeks. $22 and I won't have to pay for shipping, which seems to be $25-35 wherever I look online.
Post by: ViriiGuy on July 01, 2014, 03:55:44 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 01, 2014, 04:00:38 pm
(http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Hardware/Hinges/00h6011s2.jpg)
I'm being very careful with these as I want to make sure I mount them properly and accurately. I built a bit of a jig to make sure they'd line up with the CP box.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3869/14366413287_deafd4e819_c.jpg)
I also wanted to make sure I had proper clearance from the trackball.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3854/14551966732_b908165028_c.jpg)
Next I'll connect the box.
Glad I could pay ya back on the help. :)
;) definitely did.
Post by: ViriiGuy on July 01, 2014, 04:04:15 pm
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3854/14551966732_b908165028_c.jpg)
Ohhhh... Are those Screw inserts for the joysticks!!!! That is a great idea! I REALLY did not want to drill thru the top to mount them.
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 01, 2014, 04:06:56 pm
http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html#mountingkits (http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html#mountingkits)
Post by: ViriiGuy on July 01, 2014, 04:12:25 pm
Post by: PL1 on July 01, 2014, 04:16:27 pm
Ohhhh... Are those Screw inserts for the joysticks!!!! That is a great idea! I REALLY did not want to drill thru the top to mount them.You did read about them in this part (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) of the FAQ, right? ;D
There's also a picture of the type of threaded insert to avoid for MDF -- very useful if you're not getting them from GGG or Ultimarc.
Scott
Post by: ViriiGuy on July 01, 2014, 04:48:11 pm
Ohhhh... Are those Screw inserts for the joysticks!!!! That is a great idea! I REALLY did not want to drill thru the top to mount them.You did read about them in this part (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) of the FAQ, right? ;D
There's also a picture of the type of threaded insert to avoid for MDF -- very useful if you're not getting them from GGG or Ultimarc.
Scott
Read an FAQ???? I am in IT.. We don't read no stinkin FAQ's :D
And thanks :D Let me go check that out :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 02, 2014, 09:44:38 pm
I was up pretty late last night and had to be back at work early this morning or i would have posted this before. Here's yesterdays progress:
I decided to forgo installing the CP top to the box until i had wired and installed everything. If i had been able to use Euro hinges as planned this wouldn't be the case and i'd just unclip it, but thats how things go i guess. This will just make it a bit more easy to get around. I figured this was the right time to get the t-moulding installed.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/14370248777_54c5f73666_c.jpg)
I took my time and made sure to be particular about corners. I covered my old rubber mallet with a sheet of felt as to not scrape and damage the moulding. It came out PERFECT. and really gave the feeling of a professional product. it was only later that i realized i hadn't cut the vinyl art close enough to the wood and the moulding was causing some bubbling along a few spots. Not ideal. I'm sad to say that i damaged a small amount of the moulding surface at to top middle at the joint. not a big deal, I'll only know its there as you won't see it, but it was still a bummer. I ever so carefully ran a sharp scalpel blade along the edge and sliced out the vinyl to fit. i went a little overboard and nicked the art up at the top, compounding my screwup. Again, you wouldn't notice unless you inspected it with a fine tooth comb. Oh well. This was a learning experience.
Heres a shot of what i was talking about with the bubbling, this was on the left edge. its since been fixed.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/14555831372_0d4e8a11ba_c.jpg)
Next i moved my attention to the joysticks and buttons.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14555092464_28bc80141d_c.jpg)
Time to install my light pipe system and see if my best laid plans have worked. I'm surprised after so many coats of paint how well the acrylic insets fit. I'm quite proud that this idea is turning out so well.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2913/14556696515_5f0395314b_c.jpg)
Before the sticks could be mounted into the inserts i needed to build a few RGB LED pairs. I took the LED modules i bought from Paradise Arcade, added a length of heat shrink for looks/protection, and then attached a molex connector in the same fashion i did for all the button LED's. If you remember I had previously tested this setup a few weeks ago and was quite happy with the result.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3846/14555832572_33ee3bc60e_c.jpg)
Next i installed the 4 sticks. I'd like to underline how important it is to get the measurements right when originally putting those inserts into the wood. A couple of the bolts were a bit snug, but all in all the sticks mounted without too much issue.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3859/14553300341_4fdbc12952_c.jpg)
Then on to the rest of the buttons. I modified my iL button wrench to allow the RGB LED wire to stick out. I almost destroyed the LED wires on the first button i installed trying to tuck them inside the wrench. This little button wrench was awesome! I thought i was getting a good tight fit the first few buttons i was doing with just my fingers. Then i figured i'd modify the wrench and i was able to clamp them down properly. Make sure you don't over torque the buttons, wouldn't want to damage anything. You can also see in this picture that i'm using double lock rings as mentioned before. This choice was done mainly for light bleed issues, but now that i'm getting around to installing them they also help keep everything solid and in place. I shouldn't ever have issues with buttons coming loose, ever. I'm extremely convinced that this was a much better way to go than large heat shrink, paint, or velcro tape.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/14555097834_a0c719a6fb_c.jpg)
As i was installing the buttons i took time to plan how i wanted to run the wires. i figure cable management is more of an art than a science, and i'm usually fairly anal retentive when i install home theatre systems, or when i setup my office. I made sure to plan ahead for ease of access and simplicity. I plan on mounting the three PCB's in the dead centre above the trackball, more on that next...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5318/14370095709_dd569254c8_c.jpg)
For mounting the Lono2 and the PACLED64's I was planning on using the standard white PCB feet. These things are great, but they are kinda ugly and they make the boards sit so high off the surface. something i didn't want to deal with when i get to running the wires. I decided to build my own using small ¼" chunks of Macroline air hose from one of my various paintball tool kits i've got littered around the house. The stuff is rated at 400psi, so i'm pretty sure it can hold a small PCB no problem. :laugh: Using a sharp blade and a square i cut little chunks for a test.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2895/14533600856_d52db26f7c_c.jpg)
For this quick test i marked out and predrilled holes on a scrap bit of wood i've been using to test other things. i didn't bother screwing this down, as its pretty straightforward that this will work. I might do some 90° headers on this when i get around to wiring everything. just so its nice and clean.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3897/14370010230_db5875969c_c.jpg)
After i was done messing around with those mounts i decided to get a good look at what the panel will be like. I dropped the trackball in, added the dustwashers and screwed the smoke balltops in place. I'm not 100% happy with these washers, i might have better ones made, but you get the idea. The art looks a little washed out in these pictures because of the amount of lighting in the room, and i'm using my iPhone camera. I chose the Polycarb laminate for the art for durability and authentic feel reasons. In person it's pretty ---smurfing--- sweet, and i'm overjoyed with Brad's work. In a dim setting where the rough, translucent surface isn't collecting all the ambient light in the room the art just pops.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14553303401_397ffb671e_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/14576794733_ccc4b441f8_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/14555840552_ef5038e88e_c.jpg)
Thats it for now. Next i'll mount the PCB's, start the long process of wiring everything up, and hopefully soon get some time to head down to my buddy's place to get that last couple finishing coats on the main part of the cab. We're getting there ;D
Post by: Nephasth on July 02, 2014, 10:12:31 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 02, 2014, 10:15:08 pm
Love it. :applaud:
I'd hope so! the button/stick look was practically stolen from your build. ;D
...I can't wait to get that clear trackball in there. It will definitely blend better with the rest of the panel.
Post by: dkersten on July 03, 2014, 11:12:42 am
Yup, the FAQ had some good advice on the inserts. Those inserts you shouldn't use are for use with hard woods and have a fine thread to them. It is important to note because if you tried to screw in the course threaded ones into a hardwood you would probably break threads off and would likely warp or collapse the insert. I bought mine from GGG because the price was far better than Ultimarc. I also bought some from Lowe's and I made sure that they were the courser thread for use with MDF. They worked perfectly for mounting my screen to the bezel although they had the slot for installing with a flat blade screwdriver instead of the hex for using an allen key to install. The FAQ shows a slotted, fine thread insert, and I wanted to point out that the threads are the reason not to use in MDF not the slot.Ohhhh... Are those Screw inserts for the joysticks!!!! That is a great idea! I REALLY did not want to drill thru the top to mount them.You did read about them in this part (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) of the FAQ, right? ;D
There's also a picture of the type of threaded insert to avoid for MDF -- very useful if you're not getting them from GGG or Ultimarc.
I will also note that Ultimarc's trackball (U-Trak) comes with some very small inserts that are not threaded and are press fit instead.. Probably not the best for MDF, but they seemed to work just fine. I will see after I have a few drunk friends slamming the trackball in Golden Tee.. but I am confident it will hold just fine.
FYI, if you DO just put a wood screw in MDF or particle board and you have to remove it and screw it back in, if it strips you can take a toothpick and put wood glue on it, stick it in the hole, break it off so it isn't sticking out, and put the screw back in and it will hold again.
If you ever need a super strong way to mount something in MDF, tee nuts are the best way. MDF is strongest on the flat surface since it is basically layers of thick paper (MDF is technically just thick paper, not wood), and a tee nut plays to that strength. You will break a bolt before you pull a tee nut through MDF.
Post by: SpaceHedgehog on July 03, 2014, 11:32:48 am
Post by: wp34 on July 03, 2014, 02:31:46 pm
Those custom Encom stools are really impressive as well. Nice job. :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 05, 2014, 03:58:35 pm
Small update from Thursday night:
I've mounted the PCB's the the bottom of the control panel. i honestly thought long and hard about where to put them and if i should mount them here or in the bottom of the CP box. I think i made the right decision, but its going to mean some tight wire runs. I'll need to get creative.
I started by marking out the boards with a silver sharpie (probably one of the best things ever invented).
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14394830688_9699c0fc05_c.jpg)
I took a drill bit and taped off the depth of the screws. There was no way i'd be drilling through all this hard work. I learned my lesson with the coin door!
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14394786650_263a24994b_c.jpg)
Using a more precision screwdriver i carefully screwed down the board on top of those small plastic feet i made from the macro line.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3911/14581448765_8cf24455f9_c.jpg)
I'm not gonna lie, mounting all four boards took me all night, but only because i was debating and moving them around not wanting to commit to placement until i was quite satisfied where they should live. Yes, i'm being very picky. But i also had forgot my staple gun down south at the paint booth, and i needed it to install the wire stays. so i was also kinda taking my time. I need to get my hands on one more screw for the far PACLED64, but the PCB's are installed.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5524/14395030947_1f0846183d_c.jpg)
I don't have a picture of it, but last night i sanded and painted the last coat of black on the cab. I even managed to get in the first clear coat. I'll probably head down tomorrow and put the finishing touches on the paint, then some time next week i'll bring the cab home. Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up. Now that i've finally got my CP home and in front of a TV i don't have to trade off working on my cab for Grand Prix weekends. ;D
Post by: Nephasth on July 05, 2014, 08:23:48 pm
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Looking forward to the finished art!
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 05, 2014, 10:19:01 pm
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Looking forward to the finished art!
Why do i get the feeling i'll be jugged on it ;D
Post by: Nephasth on July 06, 2014, 12:44:39 am
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Looking forward to the finished art!
Why do i get the feeling i'll be jugged (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Jugged) on it ;D
Interesting choice of words there. :lol
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 06, 2014, 12:48:06 am
Pictures coming soon....
Post by: jaharr01 on July 06, 2014, 06:55:35 am
Tonight i plan on starting the CP wire up.
Looking forward to the finished art!
Why do i get the feeling i'll be jugged on it ;D
You probably will, but I wouldn't take it personal. You have done an excellent build.:notworthy: :notworthy: It's easy to be an armchair quarterback here, and you know there will always be criticism whether valid or not. BTW did you get you shaft size figured out? :laugh2:
Jay
Jay
Post by: jaharr01 on July 06, 2014, 07:02:10 am
Post by: Nephasth on July 06, 2014, 09:13:02 am
Hey btw where did you get those molex plugs?
From the armchair quarterback. :P
Post by: jaharr01 on July 06, 2014, 03:32:23 pm
Post by: mcseforsale on July 06, 2014, 11:10:19 pm
AJ
Are you jugging on me because have a short shaft joystick?
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 07, 2014, 12:31:26 am
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/14583668435_e9fa18a209_c.jpg)
I'm gonna try and use Velcro tape rather than zip ties and sticky pylons.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5471/14560628106_ef1edac49d_c.jpg)
Drew out a plan in Photoshop for the lights and created a map, as well as a chart in excel.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/14397019530_4c9da142fc_c.jpg)
Obviously with it being a race weekend I'm not getting much done very fast....
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/14585432755_ba14e5c725_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14398779330_86a3f72315_c.jpg)
Looks a little messy by my standards, but I've gone and cleaned it up a bit since I took this picture. Still, not bad for the first time I've ever done this kinda thing. Neph was a huge help when it came to perfecting my crimping skills.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5492/14398780770_86bc132b9e_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/14406787629_003d31abfc_c.jpg)
In other news, I'm pretty sure we're done painting. I'll need to go back and check in a few days once I get some time. It may need a touch up in a couple places, but it should be good to go.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/14403532657_514d63e584_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/14566931096_73508d67b9_c.jpg)
Next time I'm not going to spray the cab... many cans died for this finish. Meh. :dunno
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14570330866_1c6105a084_c.jpg)
Post by: Louis Tully on July 07, 2014, 04:41:13 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 07, 2014, 04:54:43 am
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/14583668435_e9fa18a209_c.jpg)
Idea stolen. :blank:
........
That's a lot of money.
Technicaly I stole it from the way the cabling was done in the FRED cabinet that powers all the TVs at the FutureShop I used to work at when I was a kid. Then I saw it on the R-Pod MkII (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138146.0.html) and was like "oh yeah!", then preceded to scrap my plans to use zipties and sticky tie pylons. Much cleaner, and I will have a simple time fixing something if I ever have a problem.
Yes, the spray cost a lot more then planned. But the finish looks phenomenal. Besides, once I got 15 cans in I was like "meh" and just kept going. "Overambitious" remember?
Do the math: $6.98 per can. 5% tax. 10¢ Enviro fee per can. Times all those cans. Plus an untold number of supplies like sandpaper, tack cloths, two rolls of plastic for the booth, the 2x3's to build the booth, I bought an extra set of folding sawhorses, etc, etc. Meh, job got done.
I won't be using spray cans again for something of this size. But again: Meh. :dunno
Post by: ViriiGuy on July 07, 2014, 06:45:51 pm
Next time I'm not going to spray the cab... many cans died for this finish. Meh. :dunno
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14570330866_1c6105a084_c.jpg)
Man this is really looking awesome!!
And I Know THAT feeling!! I am in it so far for 6 cans of KILLz Primer, 8 cans of white and 3 cans of black... And I am not even worrying about painting the inside!!
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 12, 2014, 01:59:37 pm
Work on the RGB LED wiring continues. Looks like I can run 10 LEDs per side of each PAC64 in order to make it look nice and clean. I'm hoping to find time to finish this bit over the weekend. It's a LOT of crimping, and cutting. It will look way better than a precut wire for each, but still it's tedious work.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5478/14636745875_1c1f71b60a_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 14, 2014, 03:21:06 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/14463938169_14dcf3d20b_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5554/14627581956_7d615c0f30_c.jpg)
I've started on wiring the buttons too but I'm running out of 22 AWG wire. I'll need to pick some up tomorrow.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/14647314851_a0e939b826_c.jpg)
Post by: mcseforsale on July 14, 2014, 10:24:38 am
Love wiring... :applaud:
AJ
Post by: Louis Tully on July 14, 2014, 10:38:44 am
Post by: AzureKnight on July 14, 2014, 02:04:02 pm
This is looking great so far, nice work.
Post by: BGoulette on July 14, 2014, 03:02:19 pm
Post by: Nephasth on July 14, 2014, 06:53:12 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 14, 2014, 08:43:30 pm
...Check them twice before mounting though!...
Huh?
Post by: mcseforsale on July 14, 2014, 10:41:49 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 14, 2014, 10:48:25 pm
Post by: zabrin on July 19, 2014, 09:50:41 pm
Z.
Post by: AlienInferno on July 19, 2014, 11:53:39 pm
Post by: Nephasth on July 20, 2014, 09:46:55 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 20, 2014, 12:16:45 pm
Oh... By the way, I moved the cab home last night. Big updates on the horizon!
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/14673720266_822fca89b1_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 21, 2014, 02:10:34 am
As mentioned before i was able to being the cab him last night. I've spent the entire day working on it and i feel like i've made some solid progress.
First it needs a good cleaning. there was a layer of paint dust and such all over it. I wiped the thing down, then put it on its side to start the vinyl art application.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/14682501576_517a09e518_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2940/14702326921_c62a90cf08_c.jpg)
Once i had the art on both sides i did a close trim of all the edges with an extremely sharp blade. Then touched up any spots with a black sharpie.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14702328591_67e5702d0b_c.jpg)
I lined the marquee area with the same foil aluminium tape i used for the coin door return buttons. It does't have to be perfect. I've been thinking of a couple different ways to light this space with such a small amount of room to work with. I have a couple ideas i'll test out over the next week.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/14702330011_d3a83d14fe_c.jpg)
Next i installed the remainder of the t-moulding. I HATED this part. After pulling off a flawless install of the moulding on the CP i figured this was going to be easy. It wasn't. I had a few issues getting it on there, but in the end it works, and it looks good. I have a tiny bit of overhang on the edges, but whatever.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14518842819_5e797cf564_c.jpg)
After the moulding i turned my attention to the component installation. I had the cab on its back from the t-moulding install so i decided the first thing to be installed as a little bit of ground effects underglow. These will pretty much glow blue all the time, but i wasn't sure if i was even going to use them for this build when i bought them. Side note: the 3M stickily backing on this was horrible. I ended up using the same staples i use to mount the velcro tape on my CP. Its on there pretty solid now, and looks pretty bad ass when lit up.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14725375263_42d53940fb_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5586/14705215212_a804841eb5_c.jpg)
After that it was on to the speaker grills. I'm still kinda frustrated with the design of these. they look great, but the grill doesn't hold on to the frame at all. I have no real need to ever take them off as they are just cosmetic so i've decided to epoxy them on to the frame.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3886/14519064407_4065a1a692_c.jpg)
Next the coin door. It looks pretty sweet on there. with the matching blue buttons. It fit like a glove and looks so good on there i might scrap plans for the black diamond kick plate below it. ...maybe.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14705516785_cf3779fc3d_c.jpg)
I remounted the TV wall mount.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14518852389_1bf4545752_c.jpg)
Then installed the front access hatch. I was going to use magnetic latches for this, but the euro hinges are too strong for the latches i bought. Until (or if) i ever add a couple light guns i have no real reason to access this during regular gameplay. for the time being it provides nice tool free access, but the average person or any small child wouldn't a clue how to open it.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14518856799_42ff3cd88a_c.jpg)
After that i tackled the grills for the cab ventilation. Four of them in all. Two up top and two on the back middle. I'm pretty happy with the way these turned out.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2896/14702345631_62c064c470_c.jpg)
It was getting late so i attached the CP box and kinda left it at that. Pardon the grainy picture. I had run out of daylight. ;D
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/14725389273_0a72ecf3e8_c.jpg)
Next i'll need to make some decisions about the USB and 12v power system setup. I have a feeling i made the cabling access hole from the top CPU shelf to the lower section of the cab too small. I might install all the power systems in the lower section to keep it all nice and clean. We'll see...
Post by: jaharr01 on July 21, 2014, 05:02:54 am
Jay
Post by: Louis Tully on July 21, 2014, 09:25:50 am
Post by: AlienInferno on July 21, 2014, 06:22:29 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 22, 2014, 08:55:28 pm
Taking the day off to veg out from a long day at work. Might as well give you something from yesterday that I forgot to post.
Tried to cut a little more plexi for my attempt at a marquee light diffuser solution. This could be cool or overly complicated. Time will tell...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2940/14719063914_8da8b44232_c.jpg)
Oh, I also installed the power I/O panel. Really proud of this bit. It's nice to see something that I conceptualized months ago actually turn out so well. :D
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5489/14534778800_4940002942_c.jpg)
Post by: mcseforsale on July 23, 2014, 09:42:20 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 26, 2014, 02:07:07 pm
Following Brad's instructions i carefully mounted the translucent vinyl onto the plexi. Not taking in account the extra thickness the paint process added, i had to trim the plexy 1/32". Using a 75/25 mix of isopropyl and water i successfully mounted the art clean. Not bad for another first attempt at something. Oh, and to add to the diffuser effect i left one side of the translucent protective film on the plexy. ;D
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5581/14708411746_ba51aea067_c.jpg)
For lighting the marquee i had bought a string of six LED packs from Groovy Game Gear. I realized very quickly that using all of them would be way too much light. I had to start figuring out what the right amount and where the best place to mount the packs. I figured two would be perfect, and I mounted them facing up on the bottom of the marquee shelf. I also had to wire in a couple new plugs and a wire spacer to get the packs the distance i needed apart.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5596/14729045934_ea0223806d_c.jpg)
Also, more Velcro tape...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2895/14728232541_9bd151080f_c.jpg)
...it will be all over this build.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/14731413045_df76034081_c.jpg)
Next i marked off and piloted some holes for the metal brackets.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/14544992167_94e7022d56_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14708447696_0cea06d917_c.jpg)
I rather like the result, The brackets are a little thick, and i might change them for a ½" set. but all in all its a win.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3888/14544996577_12e30cfb3e_c.jpg)
Selectively lighting this was also a good move, just for how dark it is.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14728269721_22421095d2_c.jpg)
Shadowing, no. but a little bit of light bleed. I need to find a solution for this. Might line the edges with some felt. Thoughts??
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/14731161562_f0db923614_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 26, 2014, 02:33:34 pm
I tried a couple orientations with mounting them and i found that putting them on their side will keep them out of the way of the glass when it gets installed.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14708456526_78b4407f4a_c.jpg)
The idea is simple, mount the brackets, then mount the speakers to the brackets. :D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14544815809_b3320b29eb_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14731168582_9e5b9766c6_c.jpg)
Some will notice that the grills aren't dead centre on the holes. I wasn't really happy with where the grills would have sit with the holes i made so i decided to off set them both a little bit. Also, The pictures are becoming a bit grainy from the low light. (it was getting late that night)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14545010527_0a6f32428a_c.jpg)
I lined the speaker hole with some dark felt. Its not black, but i'm still testing if it can be seen on the other side through the grills. I might replace it with some black. The felt also acts like a bit of a dampener between the speaker plastic and the wood cab. same as the little rubber strips on the bottom feet of the speakers against the metal bracket. Very simple, yet effective design.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14544823609_27d73aec4f_c.jpg)
You can't really tell even in direct sunlight, but i'll probably slip down to the craft store and get some black instead. Still sounds good through the felt too, so big win there.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14708498866_4273866e55_c.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/14545049427_0d404cc9fb_c.jpg)
I'm starting to really like the clean look and feel i'm getting from my design choices.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14728324961_5fab0418d7_c.jpg)
This next picture is just to explain how the glass panel will rest inside the cab. i'll need to line the glass runners with some felt or weather-stripping. I used a small strip of pelxi to give you a good idea how it will work. Resting on the CP shelf, and the ability to go up into the top of the cab when i need to remove the glass.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/14731503905_be606d7d8f_h.jpg)
I'm going to move on to the power and 12v system next, finish the audio, wire the CP, etc.
Speaking of the control panel, the good folks over at jugglegear.com (http://www.jugglegear.com) sold me a clear Contact Juggling ball that is the exact same size and weight as the stock U-Trak ball. the best part it was under $20. These guys were awesome. Coming from a background of big box retail and eCommerce Marketing i can definitely say that Peter and his wife are legit! If you need a cool trackball they have a bunch of cool of options like UV responsive, clear, and even steel. VERY happy with both their service and this purchase.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2932/14550657440_41689855b2_c.jpg)
The results speak for themselves!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14737338945_a91e0b73ba_c.jpg)
The clear ball lights really well, and just looks sick when sitting next to these buttons.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14757186373_a828ed796b_c.jpg)
Thats it for now, more to come!
Post by: Speed Racer on July 27, 2014, 02:50:38 am
The idea is simple, mount the brackets, then mount the speakers to the brackets. :D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14544815809_b3320b29eb_c.jpg)
Very nice work so far Chance :applaud:
I've been looking at the same logitech speakers for my project, but wasn't sure how well they performed. I know most old games don't have sophisticated sound so they are probably fine. How would you rate them?
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 27, 2014, 02:55:28 am
Post by: monkeychunkuk on July 27, 2014, 06:54:25 am
Post by: mcseforsale on August 01, 2014, 11:46:04 am
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on August 01, 2014, 12:26:49 pm
So far so good, it's been holding up well
Post by: Rick on August 01, 2014, 01:11:21 pm
The results speak for themselves!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14737338945_a91e0b73ba_c.jpg)
The clear ball lights really well, and just looks sick when sitting next to these buttons.
They certainly do, holy hell. These look AMAZING. I've definitely bookmarked this site - certainly a worthy upgrade to any stock trackball configuration!!!
Post by: rablack97 on August 01, 2014, 03:14:28 pm
I use foam tape weather stripping...for all my light bleeds, just place a strip on the cab behing the marquee and done.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14737338945_a91e0b73ba_c.jpg)
This isnt a new find, there's a thread in here somewhere on using contact juggling balls as trackballs.
The difference here is that this is acrylic, which isn't as durable as the clear polycarbonate ball you would get from happs. Acrylic is softer and scratches alot easier than polycarb, so a few months of use and this acrylic ball will get scuffed up pretty bad. However, this is the reason the same site has polishing kits to remove minor acrylic scuffs.
So yes its good for initial eye candy but will show more wear and tear, hence the cheaper price. The polycarbonate is also heavier ball, so a purist will see the difference in the roll, although it works you will get some slips using the clear ball.
If you plan to light it up, get ready to blind your eyes out, if you fire a light at the bottom through the ball, and hit it at the right angle it's annoying and blinding, and you will have this wonderful dot on your ceiling fromm the magnified light. In thinking though this may be what you want....in reference to your theme.
I had to design a RBG board and modify the shells of my T-balls so the LED would fire through the sides, for a more diffused solid color in the clear rather than a concentrated magnified beam of light.
They do look sweet though, but just and FYI from a member who has worked with a few of these bad boys.
I would recommend, spending and extra $20.00 and getting the real thing from divemaster to complete the quality aspect of the build, less scratches and the proper weight....
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F2166288&rnd=5241423&rrc=N&affl=&cip=99.127.150.14&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Replacement+Balls+for+Happ+Con&cat=Trackballs&catstr=HOME:Trackballs (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F2166288&rnd=5241423&rrc=N&affl=&cip=99.127.150.14&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Replacement+Balls+for+Happ+Con&cat=Trackballs&catstr=HOME:Trackballs)
Also yes, 76mm is the correct size. 76mm = 3"..... :cheers:
I dunno though, i think the UV reactive/white translucent ball would look better in your machine, it would give off a more Tron-esque glow at night....
Post by: Dance Commander on August 02, 2014, 07:47:51 pm
The difference here is that this is acrylic, which isn't as durable as the clear polycarbonate ball you would get from happs. Acrylic is softer and scratches alot easier than polycarb, so a few months of use and this acrylic ball will get scuffed up pretty bad. However, this is the reason the same site has polishing kits to remove minor acrylic scuffs.
So yes its good for initial eye candy but will show more wear and tear, hence the cheaper price. The polycarbonate is also heavier ball, so a purist will see the difference in the roll, although it works you will get some slips using the clear ball.
I think you may have your materials mixed up. Polycarbonate is way softer and scratches easier than acrylic. It is more impact resistant though.
Post by: rablack97 on August 02, 2014, 11:21:46 pm
The difference here is that this is acrylic, which isn't as durable as the clear polycarbonate ball you would get from happs. Acrylic is softer and scratches alot easier than polycarb, so a few months of use and this acrylic ball will get scuffed up pretty bad. However, this is the reason the same site has polishing kits to remove minor acrylic scuffs.
So yes its good for initial eye candy but will show more wear and tear, hence the cheaper price. The polycarbonate is also heavier ball, so a purist will see the difference in the roll, although it works you will get some slips using the clear ball.
I think you may have your materials mixed up. Polycarbonate is way softer and scratches easier than acrylic. It is more impact resistant though.
Your probably right, I'm not chemist. However in my testing my happs ball is 5 years old and looks practically new, i stress tested the acrylic for about a week and it looked worse than my 5 years happs ball. So i was assuming that the acrylic was a softer and lighter material being that it scuffed easier than the polycarb ball.
Learned something today though, thanks for the wisdom regarding polycarb vs. acrylic. :cheers:
Post by: ChanceKJ on August 04, 2014, 04:19:44 pm
I use foam tape weather stripping...for all my light bleeds, just place a strip on the cab behing the marquee and done.
Thanks, I had a feeling that could work. i need to grab some for the display glass as well. I'll give it a test.
I would recommend, spending and extra $20.00 and getting the real thing from divemaster to complete the quality aspect of the build, less scratches and the proper weight....
Meh, this thing is holding up like it was meant for it. I have zero complaints. That and i really don't feel like giving him any more of my money. Honestly this thing will do quite well. I noticed that spot when i tried using an LED flashlight through it. it looked pretty cool. I think this was a win for sure
Well, on to more progress. A lot of this work was done last week, i've just been out of the city for most of the last bit and didn't get a chance to update the build thread.
First, i needed to make a larger access hole. I'm not sure what i was thinking when i only drilled a 1" hole to get from the CPU shelf to the lower compartment. Seriously. Oh well. :)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14643462057_9b32b41d59_c.jpg)
Next i put the TV in place. I'm really glad i used a wall mount for the display. its going to allow me to micro adjust the location it sits on. There are a couple adjustments i need to make before i leave it in there. So it will probably come out a couple times.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14830005465_9e32b77f52_c.jpg)
Power plug is installed, but i haven't got it wired up yet. I figure i'll do that once i get all the power systems figured out.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14807005766_9892b19572_c.jpg)
I also swapped out that brow felt for some black stuff. This just looks better inside and when you catch a little light through the grills on the front you can't see anything.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14829644282_ceebe5fb78_c.jpg)
This next part is pretty cool. I wanted to have a "fridge door light" that would activate when you open the front access panel. Scotts suggestion for a rolling microswitch, and a custom wire harness later and i had a working light. I used a couple of those LED marquee packs i bought from GGG, and mounted them on the bottom edge of the display shelf.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/14827659464_7d1b8cd468_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14829651982_ff42c511d5_c.jpg)
I've got to think up a better solution for my USB. I have enough length on all of them to run them into the lower compartment. i may top mount or side mount the hub down there once i get the power lines all cleaned up. for now they're just sitting there. Damn glad i made that bigger hole. And in an act of contrition for being stupid i'm going to refrain from painting it because it reminds me not to make stupid mistakes. :D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/14643372429_105a8299a6_c.jpg)
So far so good. I've loaded the Mac Mini in for a couple small tests. Looks like i have an issue with the grounding lines on two of the coin/start buttons. but other than that i'll be good to screw down the CP and get to work on the power system next.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2900/14830028005_a70b09383e_c.jpg)
It's not looking too bad if i do say so myself!
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3905/14643390328_7a21b34429_c.jpg)
Post by: Louis Tully on August 04, 2014, 08:02:09 pm
Post by: Santoro on August 07, 2014, 11:37:56 am
Post by: wp34 on August 08, 2014, 10:24:33 am
Speaking of the control panel, the good folks over at jugglegear.com (http://www.jugglegear.com) sold me a clear Contact Juggling ball that is the exact same size and weight as the stock U-Trak ball. the best part it was under $20. These guys were awesome. Coming from a background of big box retail and eCommerce Marketing i can definitely say that Peter and his wife are legit! If you need a cool trackball they have a bunch of cool of options like UV responsive, clear, and even steel. VERY happy with both their service and this purchase.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2932/14550657440_41689855b2_c.jpg)
The results speak for themselves!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14737338945_a91e0b73ba_c.jpg)
The clear ball lights really well, and just looks sick when sitting next to these buttons.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14757186373_a828ed796b_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on August 21, 2014, 07:29:34 pm
Its been a busy couple weeks for me. But I'm back with an update.
First we'll start with mounting the MacMini. I decided on using more velcro tape for this (surprise, surprise). I measured out a couple strips, marked a spot on the shelf and used a dozen staples to secure them. Its nice, clean and stable.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5592/14893392125_4a1c468cce_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14870406946_c6b7353ea2_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14870408306_d1029f6b70_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14706756309_3e18a95d3d_c.jpg)
Next up the 12v sub-system. I mounted the power supply and the blocks first.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3861/14706799608_6a3db30cab_c.jpg)
Finally had an excuse to break out the label maker. Marque, Work Light, Coin door, Power switches, PacLED64 1, PacLED64 2, under glow and a spare.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14706763609_b8a6004983_c.jpg)
A litte more velcro tape, and some crimping.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14706765639_3dba23ae05_c.jpg)
I shortened the Power bar cable and connected it into the back receptacle.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14706805398_c6c53cc815_c.jpg)
I'll clean it all up a bit more as i go. I still needed to leave space for the 120v stuff and the USB.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/14890348441_3211fdca96_c.jpg)
I have a cable order due in any day now from MonoPrice. As soon as it gets here i'll be able to wire up the speakers, USB, and the rest of the power systems. I had to pull the CP off briefly to rewire the ground lines. I guess the Lono2 doesn't like it when buttons from one player are connected via the ground with ones from another. Oh well.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3847/14870413576_3e46341244_c.jpg)
The last two things i really need to get my hands on here are the Glass and the kick plate. I'm going to put the order in for the glass soon. I still need to decide on what i want to do about the plate.
Post by: Louis Tully on August 22, 2014, 02:55:22 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on August 24, 2014, 02:54:45 pm
Post by: yotsuya on August 24, 2014, 02:57:40 pm
You're gonna hate me for saying this. But I think it looks quite messy.
Well, we sure as Hell don't hate you because you're beautiful! >:D
Post by: ChanceKJ on August 24, 2014, 02:59:16 pm
Post by: yotsuya on August 24, 2014, 03:00:17 pm
Stop. You're gonna make a girl blush.
http://youtu.be/hz8ul-gmLyA (http://youtu.be/hz8ul-gmLyA)
Post by: Malenko on August 25, 2014, 03:59:37 pm
Cab looks to be coming together nicely!
Post by: Louis Tully on September 11, 2014, 07:04:54 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 11, 2014, 07:09:20 pm
I have a small update I need to post. However at the end of the month I'm moving. Seeing how I'll need to disconnect the CP from the main body of the cab to move it from house to house I'm holding off untill October to finish the wireing.
Then a sheet of glass and some software work and we'll be done.
I've been doing a lot of testing on it. I may add a bunch of classic N64, NES, SNES, NeoGeo, etc controllers that connect via USB and add a small hub under the CP. Its just a thought. :)
Post by: Louis Tully on September 11, 2014, 07:20:39 pm
Post by: Cobrawolf on September 17, 2014, 03:14:49 pm
First, to mirror the comments of many other users on here before me - amazing system you've got going. The time and effort to not only build but document everything step by step is great, and will be a huge help to many people getting into this hobby - much like myself.
I hope to catch you pre-move, but my question is on the Mac Mini. Do you happen to know which model it is? I believe I have the same one at the house, but was planning on turning it into a Plex server. It's also only a 32-bit system, which would throw me off a bit as well. I'm curious which one you have, as it may make me rethink the machine I'm going to put together for the build.
Thanks in advance,
-Dave
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 17, 2014, 08:07:03 pm
Here's the spec on the Mini:
Early 2009 Mac Mini
Model Identifier Macmini3,1
Model Number A1283
Order Number MB463LL/A (2.0 GHz : 120 GB)
Of course I've upgraded the RAM to 8gb and put a 500gb hard drive in it as well.
The 2009 was my server until, I replaced it with a fully loaded mid 2011 MacMini Server. This one was just collecting dust in my office here at home. For my server I use a pretty cool combination of apps to collect, manage, and stream content. Never bothered with plex myself.
The way I figure, these macs are perfect for this kinda thing. Barely use any power, and are pretty solid when it comes to the needs of your standard MAME rig.
Post by: Cobrawolf on September 19, 2014, 01:13:01 pm
The main rig will be an older Dell XPS, ripped apart and custom mounted.
Still, great build man. Like you, I'm pulling bits and pieces of inspiration from every build on here, and a few deep dark recesses of my own warped imagination.
Can't wait to see the rest of your work.
-Dave
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 23, 2014, 09:42:01 pm
Lets start with the PowerMate and front I/O panel. Just a small note, hot glue is your friend. I mounted the cables and PowerMate to the back of the (broken) panel. I plan to replace this with a new one as soon as i get a free second. I'm so chapped that i broke the corner of it. but oh well.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3897/15042826255_82e7e68230_c.jpg)
This was a bit of a running test to see if that little lego fibre-optic piece would work as intended. I plan on removing it and insulating it with a reflective layer. I did notice it gave a blue bleed to a few of the buttons on the CP top. I hadn't been expecting that. Also I'd like to glue it back to the LED a little better to make sure it's dead centre on the PowerMate LED.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5584/14856178550_58c2f827ab_c.jpg)
Here you can see the fully assembled panel. That knob is temporary. I'm playing with the idea of a few other ones i've seen online.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3845/15042832735_1294236ffc_c.jpg)
Here you can see the panel installed. Pardon the low light crappy picture.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5584/14856185050_7e793d8163_c.jpg)
As mentioned above, there is quite a bit of light bleed. I've got a couple solutions in mind for this. It will just require a bit more testing.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/14856122489_14203a1c7d_c.jpg)
Here's another shot with the LED lit. Of course it fades in and out as the volume level changes. :D That was worth the money for the PowerMate if you ask me.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/14856250368_6e5070a0c9_c.jpg)
Because i'm using the PowerMate, i've decided to revert the audio controls for the speaker system back to normal, and i've removed the potentiometer i installed early on in the build. Its a good test of my soldering skills.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/15019847006_62f923aa76_c.jpg)
The wiring is a bit of a rat's nest (i don't care what LT says... it's not up to my standard). I'll reorganize it a bit more once I move to my new place.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3874/14856134459_2a5a9b0e1a_c.jpg)
Also I cleaned up the wiring in the CP base.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3885/14856261988_93499e58aa_c.jpg)
Shown here is the method i'm using to attach the CP top to the rest of the CP box. I placed the CP top in position, then used little cut pieces of painters tape to mark the locations of the hinges. I then removed one of the hinges from the CP top, marked off the locations for the screw holes and piloted everything. then i mounted the hinge back on to the CP top.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5596/15039803921_73820d1aee_c.jpg)
Next i had my buddy hold the CP top in place as i lined up the hinges and screwed it down. I found some nice pull chain i'll use to keep it from opening too far when i need to access it. The nice thing about building a CP this large and with this many things on it is that it keeps itself closed. I've been testing it like this for a couple weeks now and there's no need to add latches or clamps to keep it shut. I'm quite happy with it like this.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3916/15150529597_49a7ae9ceb_c.jpg)
I picked up some of these IKEA "BESTA" door openers for the front access door under the CP. They work great. I thought i was going to need more than one so i picked up a couple packages. however i found one does the trick and can counter the force of both euro hinges i used for the door. this allows me to have a nice clean door, with no signs of a handle. a small press on the door and it opens just enough to place your hand past the edge and open it up.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/15150327729_5603551e72_c.jpg)
I placed one opposite from the side with the on/off microswitch that controls the utility light.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3859/15150371140_d7f9dff1fb_c.jpg)
At this point i couldn't pass up testing the lights on the CP. I have a LONG way to go with the software, mapping, etc. This was just a quick test, and i had to set each button colour to fake it. I mainly wanted to get a feel for how it would look.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15150315029_c98a719fe1_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3847/15337088375_c4fcfb327d_c.jpg)
So that's kinda where i'm at so far. We're coming up to the one year mark, (...wow). Lots of bugs and small things to work out. Like how i wired the coin door to the Lono2... It was silly, i didn't know i couldn't share a ground connection from one pin bank to buttons on another... dumb. But i'll get that sorted out in good time. I still need to order the display glass and make my mind up on the kick plate. Then another year of 3 on the software package. I did notice one thing over the last month of testing, and that console games are kinda hard to play. Yes, i can hear all of you elitists saying "---smurfing--- told you so", but that was part of the build. I like having the flexibility of the 8-Button P1/2. I'm considering adding a few black USB N64 controllers hidden behind the CPU access door. I'll make it look cool.
I plan to have this finished before 2014 closes out. Once i get settled into my new place i'll have a Garage to work in and quite a bit more free time. We're getting close!
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/15336754162_1fced75258_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3880/15150297439_d725760599_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2014, 03:59:55 pm
The display glass has been ordered!
The cab is now safe and sound in the new Man-cave. We just hit the one year mark and its almost done. A little more work on the 120v stuff, a few tweeks and bit of software setup left. Better pictures when its all done, i promise.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3929/15567145682_ec88638940_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15380165698_8c8f7d34b2_c.jpg)
Post by: Rick on October 20, 2014, 03:53:02 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 20, 2014, 03:57:38 pm
...you know Rick, my new place has a massive garage. And once spring comes and the snow melts we'll pull the cars out and I'll have some shop space. Might want to think about how we could get a full size Nintendo cab cut and sent to Calgary. That or I let you in on my other project i wanna do, I might need some C&C work done over the winter.
Post by: yotsuya on October 20, 2014, 04:00:29 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 20, 2014, 04:02:02 pm
Post by: yotsuya on October 20, 2014, 04:06:04 pm
Not sure what you mean, I don't see it. Might be the light being bent by the gravitational force of my tubby dog... :D
I dunno, it's probably the shadows on all the angles on the front. But it looks like it's ready to unfold and turn into the ScottBot or something. >:D
Post by: wp34 on October 20, 2014, 04:15:10 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 20, 2014, 04:20:02 pm
Thanks guys, as soon as she's done I'll try and get one of my photographer buddies to come in and we'll hopefully take some proper pictures.
Until then, let's try not to jinx anything (even though we're on the home stretch). ;)
Post by: Rick on October 20, 2014, 04:38:35 pm
...you know Rick, my new place has a massive garage. And once spring comes and the snow melts we'll pull the cars out and I'll have some shop space. Might want to think about how we could get a full size Nintendo cab cut and sent to Calgary. That or I let you in on my other project i wanna do, I might need some C&C work done over the winter.
I am just waiting to hear back from Purolator, to see if they can provide me a rate for Canada, as we speak - so that full-size Nintendo may not be a problem! (I've already got the Solidworks plan in the works.) And, of course, any other idea you may have!
Post by: Saneless on October 21, 2014, 04:38:58 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 25, 2014, 03:52:40 am
First off, very impressed with OneDayGlass.com (http://www.OneDayGlass.com). In less then a week they made my glass to spec and delivered it to me over the border. If you need a sheet of glass for your project they are a pretty solid choice.
Now, on with the update! As mentioned the display glass has arrived! It is a Dark tint ¼" sheet of tempered glass, custom made with a pencil grind on two edges. overall dimensions are 25" x 31"13/16ths.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5608/15434168758_a699319124_c.jpg)
I picked up some ½" closed cell foam weatherstripping from Home Depot. Its a little thick, however it should give the glass a snug fit.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3946/15434700110_6d5e79d32a_c.jpg)
I cut two strips and attached them to the rails on either side of the display.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/15621128832_9aae3d0b4a_c.jpg)
Next i made sure to clean the display, and add a small bit of electrical tape over the TV's green indicator light.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/14999533084_ec7070db9b_c.jpg)
The glass can be installed two ways. With one person where you remove the control panel box, but that could take ages and is best done when relocating the cab. Or the second method is to use two people and prop open the CP lid. I haven't installed the nice little stay chains yet, so i had to hold it open with a half deck of cards. (Pardon the hazy picture, forgot to clean the fingerprints off lens of my iPhone).
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/15433654929_c7e4b45e4a_c.jpg)
The tolerance is just enough that it fits up into the top of the cab, then slots down into the back of the CP box mounting surface. Exactly as planned so many months ago. ;D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/15434170688_34891aa417_c.jpg)
I am very happy with how the display glass turned out. As i said, its a bit snug due to how thick the foam is, but its solid. I'm not painting the back of the glass. I purposefully made everything i could inside black so i wouldn't have to mask off the glass or add some kind of bezel. The added bonus is that you can see the CPU through the lower part of the display when you open the hidden utility panel on the front.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/15434170688_34891aa417_c.jpg)
Its hard to tell in the pictures, but the glass goes right to the bottom of the base of the CP box, and totally encloses the display area off. It looks so slick and bad ass in person.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/15618618711_8cd75fff2a_c.jpg)(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5616/15622106332_f94e5c4532_c.jpg)
I still have a few more smaller things to do: Some 120v wiring, adding the serial number plate, make a couple changes to the CP wiring to help in game control setup/coin door operation better, some software tweaks, shelling Windows, programming the button LEDs, adding a light diffuser under the Trackball LED, and finishing the setup of the emulators. For now though here are a couple pictures of the lighting test i ran after installing the glass to check for glare and play distractions...
It's REALLY hard to see in the pictures, but with the dark tinted glass in place, and a game running, the screen looks like its just floating in the middle of the glass. Its really cool!
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3933/15433659109_f0ab377c67_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/15434291807_5233a5255c_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15434706350_d22f79c00c_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15434292927_9fd10cdf74_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/15434176448_4bdb181eba_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15617629781_27edd6f93b_c.jpg)
...More to come... We're not done yet folks!
Post by: Louis Tully on October 25, 2014, 04:03:13 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 25, 2014, 04:27:49 am
We'll see. If I have eggs and bacon waiting for me downstairs when I wake up in a few hours I'll cancel my plans for a Rube Goldberg style breakfast maker.
Post by: mcseforsale on October 25, 2014, 12:03:25 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 25, 2014, 11:01:35 pm
Post by: jaharr01 on October 26, 2014, 12:22:07 am
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2014, 12:27:56 am
Yeah it's a Mac mini. Amazing little quiet bit of awesome. Barely used any power too. I've bootcamped windows 7 on to it so when I get to shelling it with The front end I won't have any problems. Windows is ---smurfy--- enough that I can use a few system exploits to cut it right down. I could never do that with OS X I'm afraid. I'm currently using Maximus Arcade for the front end. It's a bit buggy, but it gave me more control over the custom GUI that I did.
A still have to get LEDBlinky and a few of the emulators setup. And as stated before there are a ton of small touches i wanna add before I "Put a Bow on it". But it will be done before The year closes out. This is for sure.
Post by: jaharr01 on October 26, 2014, 01:55:05 am
Jay
Post by: thatpurplestuff on October 26, 2014, 02:08:55 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15617629781_27edd6f93b_c.jpg)
Either way it's just awesome work man and you should be really proud of this cab!
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2014, 02:14:12 am
At any rate, thanks for the kind words and affirmation that I wasn't crazy when it came to the marquee
Post by: dkersten on October 26, 2014, 12:15:24 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 28, 2014, 09:32:00 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 31, 2014, 12:32:20 am
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/15467126070_600053332e_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 01, 2014, 03:37:25 am
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/15680899082_86ecf1e0c9_c.jpg)
I started working on the 120v, USB, and audio wiring tonight. Trying to turn this rats nest into something presentable.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/15059367334_c2dd50d1d8_c.jpg)
The audio/Sub i'm going to hold into place with some industrial velcro bits. This will keep me from screwing brackets into the cab, and help dampen any vibrations created by the sub. I mounted the logitech speaker control on the top of the sub with velcro as well. Just cause...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15679307905_e8146f6023_c.jpg)
I swear this velcro tape just makes this build. So easy to work with. I must have 40 feet of it in the build so far. One of the only issues i had that i didn't see coming when i was planning is how the relationship between using headphones and the speakers would work. The unplugged 3.5mm audio jack you see sitting there is the other end of the front I/O headphone jack on the CP. If i plug it in without plugging headphones into the front panel it still cut out the speakers. Not a big deal. I will rarely ever use headphones on this cab, it was just there because A. i could, and B. just in case. If i want to use headphones on the front I/O i also need to open the lower coin door and plug this connection in. Really no big deal.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/15494107187_f652f4e996_c.jpg)
I'm almost done. I still need to wire in all the USB lines and figure out some sort of cashbox. Either the actual HAPP box, or just something simple like a kitchen drawer utensil holder, or something... Doesn't need to be fancy.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15677385271_465e403374_c.jpg)
I'm quite happy with the wiring job, Its not like A+ in my books, but its nice and clean. One thing i did notice is that i always could find a way to make a cable just the right length needed without having to bundle it. with a couple notable exceptions. I'm very glad this is all turning out quite well. I'll need to do the USB later, but its too late and its been a long night of this already. :D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15679309045_0e08ebcef8_c.jpg)
Finally tonight i got a chance to try out mounting one of the rear access panels. It fits like a glove and is quite secure.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/15059368444_c3a215b89c_c.jpg)
Thats it for tonight. I'm running out of things to do with this build. which means its almost done ;D
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 01, 2014, 03:45:48 am
Post by: yotsuya on November 01, 2014, 11:49:55 am
Holy crap... I just noticed this thread now has over 30k views... 20,000 of them are probably me, haha, :D
Probably more like 25,000. >:D
Inside looks clean, good job.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 01, 2014, 03:56:45 pm
Holy crap... I just noticed this thread now has over 30k views... 20,000 of them are probably me, haha, :D
Probably more like 25,000. >:D
Inside looks clean, good job.
Actually, maybe it's more like 28,000 :D
Thanks, I'm glad I stopped at the USB last night, that might just yet be the most challenging bit.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 02, 2014, 09:34:52 pm
Yesterday i stopped into my local tool supply shop and found a metal punch set for $7 because a couple of the letters were missing. I only need the numbers for this anyways, so i really didn't care. Also picked up a small rubbermaid drawer organizer for the coin box. It was a productive day.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3952/15068519414_6696e92e13_c.jpg)
I started by marking off and drilling some pilot holes...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/15688456435_d506916c23_c.jpg)
I then lined the bottom with some left over black felt. This helps keep the coins from bouncing out. Its almost like the tray was made for this. It's just perfect.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7537/15502601599_2f39d5a244_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15069101363_e821572006_c.jpg)
Next i switched to the Serial number plate. I wanted to take some practice to get the stamped numbers in there just right. The numbers came out ok, but i really want to do a new serial number plate, so i'm not going to install this one until i get a chance to head to the shop that did this one. Still, practice makes perfect.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5616/15686541901_3035cd0caf_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7483/15068521904_e9e53d13d5_c.jpg)
Oh, i finally cleaned up and routed all the USB.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7543/15664749526_44eef76ef6_c.jpg)
Then i added some more of the weatherstripping to block light from the Coin Door LED's bleeding from the top of the back panel.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5613/15686546131_8bd776a363_c.jpg)
I then installed the back panels...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/15503652920_60edf01dda_c.jpg)
I took a few nice pictures of the inside now that the wires are all cleaned up. I'm so very glad i used velcro tape for everything and not those sticky zippy pylons...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/15503083188_ebaa8bc70c_c.jpg)(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/15503084648_5c9f7ceca2_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7557/15503083588_347f41f580_c.jpg)
With the wiring complete i turned my attention to some of the smaller things, The LED lighting for starters. LEDBlinky is pretty bad ass. I messed around with some of the lighting and animations.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/15695766995_1cb2b67acc_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7469/15696670925_426b938a23_c.jpg)
I also had to remove the front I/O and make a couple of adjustments to the PowerMate LED. I also took this time to add a couple chains to hold the CP top open.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3946/15075818884_783e632b18_c.jpg)
I really wasn't happy with the stock Ultimarc trackball LED kit. SO i decided to make my own. For starters, now that i have a clear trackball the light from the LEDs just shoots right through to the ceiling and its blindingly bright compared to all the other controls. I propped open the control panel and removed the LED kit. Just to give you an idea of how easy light shines through, you can see the display from the screen projected through the bottom of the trackball into the ball. it's so cool, like a mini hologram.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/15510967660_5f2d2c9258_c.jpg)[/url]
Here's my solution, one the the same Paradise Arcade LED's that i'm using to light my joysticks, mounted to a small piece of plexi left over from my marquee. I added a layer of translucent plastic to help defuse the light a bit more, then wrapped it all nicely with some high quality electrical tape. Then i drilled a small hole and mounted it the same way the stock LED kit is attached. WAY BETTER. If you do go the clear trackball route i highly suggest you make your own LED pack like this then use the stock one.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/15672062406_dfc98b3620_c.jpg)
Next i decided to adjust the lighting in the Marquee. I dug up my old Roscolux swatch book and tested a few gels to get the best look i could for behind the marquee.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/15694760431_a269754227_c.jpg)
A nice solid blue to match and a deep clean grey to bring out the details in the coin on the marquee.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/15698268932_a25e3c2ea7_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/15672957446_706e2056e6_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/15696950985_b517ae40d3_c.jpg)
This looks a lot better! It's one of those things that is really hard to get on film, but in person it looks amazing. Mind you, i'm also using a smartphone for all my pictures, so there are some obvious limitations to the quality of the colour. :)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3946/15511075499_54cb03f52e_c.jpg)
Well, thats it for this update. Not much left to do....
Post by: Locke141 on November 03, 2014, 12:44:47 am
This came out amazing. :cheers:
I love you all the little details.
Post by: AzureKnight on November 05, 2014, 01:44:44 am
I've been holding off on commenting because this build just keeps getting better, the attention to detail is incredible.
I'll be stealing the weatherstrip idea when I have LED bleed issues on my build (which I'm sure I'm going to).
I also will be using velcro to secure some of the wiring.
Honestly, along with Blip this is one of my favorite builds...nice work :applaud:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 05, 2014, 10:17:27 pm
The Velcro brand actually got wind of this build and tweeted their Aproval.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7508/15721661865_b70c7ebf29_z.jpg)
Also, I've decided the build will not be complete until I make a new serial number plate that's a bit more realistic in both size and values. With more know how from Scott, I've figured out a couple ways to get a proper amp rating. I tried using my multimeter, but I found the best way in this case was to plug it in through my AVS2000 and crank it up. Peaked at about 0.90/0.92 amps. So let's say that my rough guess on the first plate was crazy accurate. I still want to print a 4" plate rather then this 7" one. Maybe in the next couple days when I find time to get to the place I had the first one done. Then we can stick a pin in this build.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5604/15536476107_2fbfb32bd3_c.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 05, 2014, 10:23:35 pm
Post by: BadMouth on November 06, 2014, 01:55:30 pm
It looks awesome!
Getting the bezel glass in place always makes it feel much more finished.
The inside looks too nice. :laugh:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 06, 2014, 01:57:57 pm
An electrician buddy of mine gave it a 7.5/10. It's almost inspired me to rip it all out and start again. :laugh:
Post by: yotsuya on November 06, 2014, 02:23:46 pm
:laugh: "too nice"?
An electrician buddy of mine gave it a 7.5/10. It's almost inspired me to rip it all out and start again. :laugh:
Please do. And make sure you post about it. With photos. >:D
Post by: rablack97 on November 06, 2014, 05:54:14 pm
Quote
I really wasn't happy with the stock Ultimarc trackball LED kit. SO i decided to make my own. For starters, now that i have a clear trackball the light from the LEDs just shoots right through to the ceiling and its blindingly bright compared to all the other controls. I propped open the control panel and removed the LED kit. Just to give you an idea of how easy light shines through, you can see the display from the screen projected through the bottom of the trackball into the ball. it's so cool, like a mini hologram.
Here's my solution, one the the same Paradise Arcade LED's that i'm using to light my joysticks, mounted to a small piece of plexi left over from my marquee. I added a layer of translucent plastic to help defuse the light a bit more, then wrapped it all nicely with some high quality electrical tape. Then i drilled a small hole and mounted it the same way the stock LED kit is attached. WAY BETTER. If you do go the clear trackball route i highly suggest you make your own LED pack like this then use the stock one.
Or you could just ask me for a set of my boards and modded your t-ball. Side firing leds :)
(http://i.imgur.com/irN5j3M.jpg?2)
(http://i.imgur.com/pRHrNg6.jpg?1)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 06, 2014, 08:00:13 pm
Post by: rablack97 on November 06, 2014, 11:11:10 pm
I ran into the same issue with my clear ball projects, so i had some of these boards fabbed to keep from burning my eyes out. :)
Awesome work man....... :applaud:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 07, 2014, 01:36:56 am
Hey, this gives me an idea for another project I'm looking at. Completely unrelated. But I want to take the wrist remote from a Recon Instruments Snow2, keep the housing and the buttons and scrap the board inside for my own contact switches and bluetooth module.
How hard is it to spec up a custom PCB and have it made? Especially if I just want one or two?
Post by: rablack97 on November 07, 2014, 09:47:07 am
The cheapest route is to have them fabbed overseas, it takes awhile but very cost effective.
Depending on the size of the boards, you can get 10 2 layer boards done in green for about 15.00 shipped. Haven't found a fab shop that will do 1-2 for a decent price.
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping/im120418001.html (http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping/im120418001.html)
Or a second super cheap option is to make them yourself by etching copper boards. I've done that for simple one off boards, but they have to be 1 layer, the 2 layers are a pain in the ass to pull off.
So if your routing calls for 2 layers i recommend sending them off to fab, you'll just have a few extras for testing purposes.. :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 09, 2014, 10:44:03 pm
PL1 - For a TON of advice and help on things to numerous to mention.
Nephasth - inspiration, parts sourcing, crippling help, and the driving force for neat cable standards. :)
HaRuMaN - CAD work and design help.
yotsuya - for the constant heckling.
Jarrett - the basis of the CP design (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960)
SpaceHedgehog - For help with his paint process
CraftyMech - for his SLG Mini (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html), and a ton of tech support
Lucian045 - for printing my artwork (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html), and providing art samples and advice.
EMDB - for the help with the castors (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130690.msg1340037.html#msg1340037)
blind_dado - for the inspiration with the Griffin PowerMate
OldTymeToys - Custom keychain work (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,97793.html)
Also HUGE shout out to the fine folks at Paradise Arcade, GroovyGameGear, ArcadeShop.de, and Ultimarc for dealing with my orders, special requests and constant barrage of questions. As well a whole bunch more local Calgary vendors, and small parts vendors around the world. Its crazy to think/say but this build wouldn’t have been what it is without parts from Germany, Asia, the U.K. all over the US, Canada, and the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
Everyone i’ve missed, (you know who you are), that provided insight, inspiration, and tips. As well as those of you who follow this thread. Extra special shoutout to those of you who have the email notifications going, (sorry for the 2am updates, haha :D )
This build was made possible with the inspiration from the following other builds. Check them out:
Nephasth - Two-Headed Beast (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.0.html)
edekoning - Magneto (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119175.0/all.html)
SpaceHedgehog - R-Pod MkII Racing Simulator (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138146.0.html)
blind_dado - Arcade Odyssey (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,89624.msg942128.html)
mcseforsale - The Blue Pill (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117977.msg1250249.html)
EMDB - Project RetroCade (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130690.0.html)
Complete Flickr Gallery
Chance's Arcade (https://www.flickr.com/photos/chancekj/sets/72157636572579013/)
I’ll hopefully be taking some really nice professional pictures of the build in the next few weeks with help from my friends at: Karyn Lee Portrait (http://www.karynleeportrait.com)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/15754184395_6973ce28f9_c.jpg)
...oh and 1,000th POST! hahahaha :D
Post by: yotsuya on November 09, 2014, 10:50:50 pm
yotsuya - for the constant heckling.
Wuv you too, brah!
Bummed you're done. I was waiting for the multi-picture post where you show us how you switched from oval-head screws to pan-head screws. >:D
Congrats on being done. Best feeling in the (BYOAC) world. :cheers:
Post by: Nephasth on November 10, 2014, 12:40:21 am
Post by: AzureKnight on November 10, 2014, 10:25:51 am
Nice work, I've really enjoyed following this thread. :applaud:
Post by: yamatetsu on November 10, 2014, 10:32:08 am
I have to admit that I really hate CP boxes that are wider than the cab because it just looks clunky, but you, Sir, managed to pull it off with aplomb. Well done !
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=319253;image)
Post by: ZexisStryfe on November 10, 2014, 10:40:10 am
Chance, this is just a gorgeous cab! :applaud:
Quick question for you- After reading the entire thread I noticed you did quite a bit of work putting molex connectors and other quick disconnects in when wiring your cabinet. This is a fantastic idea! Why didn't you put in quick disconnects on the back of your Control Panel so you would be able to remove it without pulling wires from the cab interior?
Post by: grippie on November 10, 2014, 11:53:05 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 10, 2014, 02:26:14 pm
Bummed you're done. I was waiting for the multi-picture post where you show us how you switched from oval-head screws to pan-head screws. >:D
Congrats on being done. Best feeling in the (BYOAC) world. :cheers:
You joke, but i already have that documented.
Congrats man! This project turned out great! :applaud:
Nice work, I've really enjoyed following this thread. :applaud:
Thanks guys! :D
That turned out great ! :applaud:
I have to admit that I really hate CP boxes that are wider than the cab because it just looks clunky, but you, Sir, managed to pull it off with aplomb. Well done !
Thanks! (Great word usage btw).
I have been lurking here for a while but this project made me finally come out of the shadows...
Chance, this is just a gorgeous cab! :applaud:
Quick question for you- After reading the entire thread I noticed you did quite a bit of work putting molex connectors and other quick disconnects in when wiring your cabinet. This is a fantastic idea! Why didn't you put in quick disconnects on the back of your Control Panel so you would be able to remove it without pulling wires from the cab interior?
Thanks! Great question. I had planned to keep the USB hub inside the CP, and run one single USB line into the Mac. However it would have been a nightmare to make look as good as this. Instead, it just made more sense to make a USB "snake" thats wrapped separately and bundled with the rest of the cab wires. Plus, you know, velcro tape. The only time i'll ever need to disconnect it is when i move the cab to another place, so its not a major concern. All the other connections: power, signal, audio, etc that run into the CP have some kind of disconnect inside or just outside of the CP as well.
Read through this entire post over the last two days. (took me that long haha). Great work as everyone has already stated, and I just bought a role of velcro for my cable management. :cheers:
Thanks! ...do yourself a favour, buy an extra roll. That stuff goes fast and it doesn't hurt to have some extra laying around the house. I use it for a ton of stuff like my desk and home theatre. You'd be surprised how many staples i went though as well. :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 10, 2014, 09:03:17 pm
Contained in the zip file are both the .dxf and .dwg files, as well as a pdf you can use as a template to toss into your favourite image editing software to make some cool matching side art. You could also have your local Staples print off the PDF if you want to use is as a pattern to cut your panels.
Enjoy!
2017 Edit: I have updated the download package to include a 1-to-1 scale PDF document for better printing on large format printers.
Post by: SpaceHedgehog on November 11, 2014, 11:29:14 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 11, 2014, 11:48:39 pm
This turned out exceedingly well. Lots of loving care apparent and everything looks so well put together and finished. A pro-build Chance :cheers:
:D thanks! That's EXTREMELY high praise coming from someone who builds what you build.
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 12, 2014, 06:59:35 am
Post by: markc74 on November 12, 2014, 12:49:22 pm
This on the other hand looks awesome. Cool (and appropriate) design. Overlapping control panel which i normally hate looks really well designed and insanely well put together. In fact everything looks great here.
Nice work. And really good write up! :applaud:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 12, 2014, 08:36:11 pm
Its an okay build I guess. :D But in all seriousness where did you get your artwork printed at? Its refective and shiny! :o
;). Thanks! It was done by Brad: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html)
He does AMAZING work. It's a family business that's in its second generation and he's a builder himself. I chose him over a local company that did a bunch of high profile work for the 2010 Winter Olympics (if that says anything about how good he is). The process working with him is up there among some of the best I've ever delt with in the printing industry, and I used to work with companies like his for years. Very happy with it. The polycarb CPF top is practically bomb proof too.
Is this really your first build? I don't even think i would have dared show mine. 'Kill it with fire' seemed to be the general response from people i showed my first cab attempt to.
This on the other hand looks awesome. Cool (and appropriate) design. Overlapping control panel which i normally hate looks really well designed and insanely well put together. In fact everything looks great here.
Nice work. And really good write up! :applaud:
More high praise from someone who also does AMAZING work. Thanks! Yep, really the first ever attempt at building a cab, or anything like this for that matter.
Post by: jdbailey1206 on November 19, 2014, 07:57:11 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 19, 2014, 09:29:21 am
I can only assume the artwork is has an adhesive backing? (Don't know why I am posting when I could just go email the man. :laugh:)
Yep, :D with "Air Release". The adhesive has little crosshatching that allows bubbles to escape.
Your wire management has that certain "anal attentive attention to detail" that I love. Build looks great, I'm still torn on if I like that CP shape, but that's a hang up on me, not a diss on you.
A serious question though, do you have a way to flip a switch and turn off the LEDs? I think they look neat and all, but if I ever put them on any of my cabs, I'd want an off switch.
By LEDs I assume you mean the ones at the base? That's really all there is aside from the buttons, coin door and marquee. But yes, if I want them off I just reach in and press a button. Can change their colour too.
Post by: Jin2k9 on November 19, 2014, 09:56:10 pm
One question though about the serial plates you and a few others gets custom made, what kind of "store" makes these ?
Post by: PL1 on November 19, 2014, 10:34:43 pm
Great work man. Congrats for finishing it with it with style. Have to say that it turned out very well.You can make these yourself. ;D
One question though about the serial plates you and a few others gets custom made, what kind of "store" makes these ?
CoryBee's tutorial is here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129180.0.html), but I recommend using a better metal plate than soda cans he mentions in that thread.
His later plates used thin sheet metal like the ones near the end of this thread (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129116.0.html).
Scott
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 19, 2014, 10:38:42 pm
One question though about the serial plates you and a few others gets custom made, what kind of "store" makes these ?
I just went to a stamp and label company that does these for the oil patch.
http://accuratestamp.ca/ (http://accuratestamp.ca/)
I wanted something more authentic than an Avery label. No disrespect. :D
Post by: taylormadelv on November 21, 2014, 11:38:27 am
Post by: Nephasth on November 21, 2014, 02:04:55 pm
By LEDs I assume you mean the ones at the base? That's really all there is aside from the buttons, coin door and marquee. But yes, if I want them off I just reach in and press a button. Can change their colour too.
specifically I meant the button LEDs
Turn off the button LEDs? That's just crazy talk.
Post by: ZexisStryfe on November 21, 2014, 03:18:50 pm
Post by: yotsuya on November 21, 2014, 03:23:16 pm
If you daisy chain the ground wires for the LEDs (which I know Chance didn't do) you could just put a latching/momentary button in the loop, right?
Yeah, probably.
Post by: dkersten on November 21, 2014, 03:51:17 pm
Post by: PL1 on November 21, 2014, 04:05:52 pm
If you daisy chain the ground wires for the LEDs (which I know Chance didn't do) you could just put a latching/momentary button in the loop, right?RGB LED controllers use one (daisy-chained) 5v/12v line and three separate ground lines for red, green, and blue per LED.
If you want to switch off the LEDs with one single-pole, single-throw (SPST) switch, you would place it on the daisy-chained 5v/12v line between the power supply and the LEDs.
Scott
Post by: yotsuya on November 21, 2014, 04:09:24 pm
If you daisy chain the ground wires for the LEDs (which I know Chance didn't do) you could just put a latching/momentary button in the loop, right?RGB LED controllers use one (daisy-chained) 5v/12v line and three separate ground lines for red, green, and blue per LED.
If you want to switch off the LEDs with one single-pole, single-throw (SPST) switch, you would place it on the daisy-chained 5v/12v line between the power supply and the LEDs.
Scott
Glad to see you're back from refurbishment, ScottBot.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 22, 2014, 02:42:25 pm
I mean, if I really wanted to, why not just shut off LEDBlinky? ???
Holy CRAP! Nice work! bit of a "ripple in the Matrix" using the Mac Mini, hehe I like it though. Love the led accent lighting, very nice!
Thanks! :laugh:
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 22, 2014, 02:47:33 pm
The button lights are only on (and game specific) during games. When I'm in the FE they have just the FE controls lit, and otherwise I have a choice of a nice blue fade in/out or a cycle Yellow/Red/Blue/Green per player for an attract mode. I'm still tinkering with the software ;)
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 30, 2014, 10:50:25 pm
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7559/16147210981_ba70747637_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/15961808030_2c70dfd97f_c.jpg)
Post by: yotsuya on December 30, 2014, 10:53:48 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 31, 2014, 12:22:39 am
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7468/16152516472_73f24a6435_c.jpg)
Post by: Rockhart on December 31, 2014, 12:39:12 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 31, 2014, 03:44:09 pm
Post by: Louis Tully on December 31, 2014, 04:09:11 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 31, 2014, 04:18:14 pm
Without that it's nothing......
Post by: Louis Tully on December 31, 2014, 04:29:11 pm
Post by: Nephasth on December 31, 2014, 06:30:17 pm
Talk about sexy wiring! :D
Yeah, no kidding.
He and Neph roll like that. With their fancy all black wires and fancy neat runs with no extra slack and their fancy fanciness.
:notworthy: fancy %$#*ers
http://youtu.be/hy_rrJBYUrQ (http://youtu.be/hy_rrJBYUrQ)
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 02, 2015, 09:10:59 pm
Enjoy!
Post by: jaharr01 on January 03, 2015, 12:05:30 pm
Jay
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 03, 2015, 02:31:16 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 04, 2015, 04:09:40 am
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8635/16192621535_ea40e0477e_c.jpg)
Maybe i should get back to work on my DK build and stop obsessing over this thing :laugh:
Post by: two40 on January 04, 2015, 04:29:04 am
I read this build thread yesterday. Pretty effing epic stuff. You're giving me a complex about posting any of my work. :p
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 04, 2015, 04:36:44 am
You mentioned something about pro photos - did you get them done?
I read this build thread yesterday. Pretty effing epic stuff. You're giving me a complex about posting any of my work. :p
:laugh: a complex? Naw man, share. ;D
Thanks for the kind words! As for the pro photos I haven't been able to find time to connect with my friend yet, we've both been quite busy over the holiday season and it just hasn't worked out yet. Also, I'm waiting for our photostudio at work to let me snag a chunk of the massive paper drop we use to shoot products with, that way my friend won't have to cut hers. It doesn't make sence to disassemble the cab and transport it to a studio, so we're gonna bring the studio here. ;D
So far every picture you see in this thread was taken with an older iPhone 5, and more recently since September an iPhone 6.
Post by: Imagamejunky on January 05, 2015, 02:43:24 am
Please take a minute to help me out.
Please tell me why you chose to use 2 u360's and 2 j sticks. Why not 4 of the 360's? I'm in the parts ordering phase of my project and having a difficult time deciding on which sticks to buy. If you had it to do all over again what changes if any would you make in the control panel? Are you happy with your button configurations? Thanks in advance. And once again, great job dude.
Junky
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 05, 2015, 03:26:30 am
I'll take a couple, :)
I chose the sticks I chose for three reasons, Neph had the same on his build and not knowing what I didn't know that seemed like a good starting point. Secondly they were generic and simple, but seemed well built and not some crappy ebay special. Third I couldn't justify the price for 4 360s.
In retrospect, if I had to make a second cab I would skip the 360's myself (very subjective). I'm glad I put them in there on my first build. But now I want to add octogon Restrictors, and new harder springs. Also I've had to add xpadder to my software package recently when I went to add a couple new emulators that couldn't see both my 360 and my lono as one device. Meh. I really like the chunky clicks feeling of the jsticks in my p3/4 spots. I've honestly played with the idea of adding microswitches to my 360's for feel.
They seem to be a solid choice for a cab that "does everything", however I'm now "tuning" them to feel based on what kind of stick I want them to be.
Think of a couple things like: what games will you be playing, console vs arcade, 2/4/8 ways, how many people realistically will be playing at one time, what kind of money do you want to drop on this? Etc.
If you really want to "go all out" and money isn't an issue, get 4 360's. But I'd also buy a couple of the restrictor plates, a harder spring, and a longer shaft. Try different combinations of each in a test rig until you find what you like for your favorite games. You may find that you want 4 360s, all with octogon plates, long shafts and tough springs. Again, as you play with them you will find what you like. You can always order more parts in a second order from Ultimarc.
Button wise, I love my IL's. The look, the feel, etc. But after ordering all my buttons I found out that Groovy Game gear sells their CLASSX leaf buttons in the same clear plastic. I would have to buy a full set of clear and a full set of black to get the same effect, but I personaly like the feel of the couple leaf buttons I bought for my pacman project. That's a cost thing though. again, but a couple from each company and test them in a test rig before you commit. Unless I'm building a control panel that needs the original feel and original controls (like my new DK project) then I'm gonna go with CLASSX buttons with microswitches. Total personal preference.
I REALLY like my p1/2 button layout. I known m crazy for going more than 6 buttons for each, but I know I built my cab to accommodate 2 N64 player setups across P1/3 and P2/4 (that I actualy have used) and it was worth it. Totally different experience to using an N64 controller. For most people 6 buttons at p1/2 and 4 on p3/4 will be more than enough. I was very picky about the button spacing and angles. It was the subject of many back and forth emails when I was having the CAD for them made. Fits like a glove. Personaly my want for extra leg room on the buttons didn't extend to P3/4. Four buttons was enough.
You didn't ask, but if I had to choose my PCBs all over again, I would have gone with a pair of IPAC Ultimate I/O boards. They didn't exist when I was planning my cab. Nothing wrong with my setup, I'm just not a fan of how the Lono2 works in relation to the independent ground line on each of the four pin banks. The lono has been discontinued since, but it was a good choice at the time.
A lot of this is subjective, and was bought for particular reasons. Take your time. If you really want to "do it right" then spend a little money and sample a few products for yourself with a test rig.
Does that answer your questions?
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 05, 2015, 03:31:14 am
Post by: StefR on January 05, 2015, 09:50:08 am
Post by: dkersten on January 05, 2015, 02:47:46 pm
Post by: Imagamejunky on January 06, 2015, 03:01:57 am
I actually already purchased ONE ipac ultimate i/o and a utrac trackball with rgb. Unfortunately after doing more reading it looks like I will need a second ipac ultimate i/o. CRAP. With my plan for a full 4 player control panel similar to yours it doesn't look like one ultimate i/o will be enough. I'm assuming this is why you stated that you would have purchased 2? I'm pretty confused by the ulitmarc website. Why does it say that the ipac won't allow for a 4 player set-up AND the trackball when the trackball has usb anyway?
And thanks for the advice dkersten.
Junky
Post by: dkersten on January 06, 2015, 11:49:15 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 08, 2015, 08:38:31 pm
Post by: sc23 on January 09, 2015, 07:25:25 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 11, 2015, 01:04:05 pm
:)
Post by: mcseforsale on January 18, 2015, 08:10:36 pm
P.S. Look for a new build thread from me in about a couple of weeks....or 2 :D
AJ
Post by: ozone614 on January 23, 2015, 02:11:20 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 23, 2015, 02:24:32 pm
....My neighbor just asked if I could build him a 4P cabinet and I'm going to use yours as inspiration...
AJ, let me know if you need anything, theres a link in the OP to download the side panels. I've just been telling people to take the PDF's to staples and have them print out a couple copies on the large format printer and use it as a cutting template.
Post by: Billabong on January 23, 2015, 03:08:38 pm
The details are what separate the good cabinets from the great. Like the tokens, key ring, etc.
You've inspired me as well. Thank you!
Post by: Sparkolicious on January 23, 2015, 03:18:43 pm
Post by: mcseforsale on January 25, 2015, 09:56:17 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 27, 2015, 11:59:18 pm
Just want to add another pat on the back. Awesome build and I love the theme! :)
The details are what separate the good cabinets from the great. Like the tokens, key ring, etc.
You've inspired me as well. Thank you!
:cheers: wow!
:D Thanks guys!
I've had a LOT of questions about what Molex part numbers i used for the build. I'll post them here for people and on the OP.
Molex Micro-Fit 3.0™
43645-0200 - 2 circuit Male
43640-0201 - 2 circuit Female
43025-0400 - 4 circuit Male
43020-0401 - 4 circuit Female
43025-0600 - 6 circuit Male
43020-0601 - 6 circuit Female
43025-0800 - 8 circuit Male
43020-0801 - 8 circuit Female
43030-0007 - Female pins
43031-0007 - Male pins
2.54mm Pitch SL™ Crimp Housing
22-55-2101 - 10 Circuit
22-55-2201 - 20 Circuit
22-55-2321 - 32 Circuit
16-02-1125 - SL™ Crimp terminals
Post by: mcseforsale on January 28, 2015, 08:52:06 pm
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/14203996184_f545acf3a3_c.jpg) (https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/14203996184_f545acf3a3_c.jpg)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MTB/RUCKUS/DSC01445.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MTB/RUCKUS/DSC01445.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MTB/IMAG0840_zpsa416801d.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MTB/IMAG0840_zpsa416801d.jpg.html)
There's a few more, but this is just an arcade forum...
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 28, 2015, 09:13:24 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 26, 2015, 07:54:50 pm
Chance, this is one of the best finshed cabs I've seen on here. My neighbor just asked if I could build him a 4P cabinet and I'm going to use yours as inspiration. Simply awesome.
P.S. Look for a new build thread from me in about a couple of weeks....or 2 :D
AJ
Did you start this yet?
Post by: mcseforsale on February 28, 2015, 01:55:09 pm
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/Mobile%20Uploads/20150207_1207101_zpsff6d33c7.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150207_1207101_zpsff6d33c7.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/Mobile%20Uploads/20150222_2041071_zpsbfad0363.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150222_2041071_zpsbfad0363.jpg.html)
Thanks for all the help! I'm hoping to start putting panels on soon.
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 28, 2015, 01:58:50 pm
Post a link here with your build thread when you get it going. I'd like to document the connection.
:applaud:
Post by: mcseforsale on February 28, 2015, 02:02:16 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 28, 2015, 02:04:00 pm
Post by: mcseforsale on February 28, 2015, 02:26:02 pm
AJ
Post by: MeatLoafX on March 06, 2015, 03:54:36 pm
My project will not be nearly as advanced as this one, but the size and shape of the cabinet and control panel are definitely something I'm likely to use.
Thank you for making so much useful information available.
(side question - were the CP plans/sketches available? Hard to get a sense of the depth and width - I really like the hinged aspect as well!)
Post by: yotsuya on March 06, 2015, 04:41:43 pm
(side question - were the CP plans/sketches available? Hard to get a sense of the depth and width - I really like the hinged aspect as well!)
He would do anything for you, but he won't do that.
Post by: MeatLoafX on March 06, 2015, 06:04:13 pm
He would do anything for you, but he won't do that.
Ha! Fair enough. I saw the side panel files and didn't know if I was just missing a cp layout.
This thread is a constant source of information. I'm source of information. So much to digest !!
Post by: yotsuya on March 06, 2015, 06:11:29 pm
Post by: MeatLoafX on March 06, 2015, 06:14:58 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 06, 2015, 09:28:03 pm
He would do anything for you, but he won't do that.
HAHA! Yots' you ass. I've had that song stuck in my head for the last four hours. Maybe i'm crazy, but it's crazy and true.
Just wanted to say that this build has been a huge inspiration to me. I'm nowhere near ready to start building, but I've looked through this entire thread many times and have it bookmarked on multiple devices.
My project will not be nearly as advanced as this one, but the size and shape of the cabinet and control panel are definitely something I'm likely to use.
Thank you for making so much useful information available.
(side question - were the CP plans/sketches available? Hard to get a sense of the depth and width - I really like the hinged aspect as well!)
You're very welcome! If you end up using the side panels post a link to your build thread or a couple pictures of your build and the finished project here. I always love seeing how other people interpret my plans to their cabs. I built the CP box on the fly to fit the CP top that Jarrett original designed (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960), and HaRuMaN modified for me. That link to Jarrett's post has a 300dpi download of his top. I'd take that and make a line drawing out of it and save it as a 1:1 PDF, Have staples print it out for you and use it as a giant paper template to cut from.
Pardon the crude measurements, I'm in a bit of a hurry.
A. 110.5cm
B. 19.5cm
C. 20.5cm
D. 11.4cm
E. 10.1cm
ALL NUMBERS ARE APPROXIMATE!
I can do better ones later when i have time if these don't work for you. :)
Post by: MeatLoafX on March 07, 2015, 08:53:14 am
I gave out side dimensions? ???
Well, between photo 2 & 3 on your Flickr page and the pdf/cad files in this thread, I have a really good idea on side panel dimensions - thank you!
And thank you for taking the time to put together the rough numbers. It really helps a ton.
My goal isn't to copy you - imho, you've set the gold standard here and I'm thankful I can pick your brain a little bit. My project is just getting started - I have the computer system set up, the front end, and most of the software finished. The weather has been way too cold to go to the garage and start building anything (and I'm not at that stage yet anyway - still trying to learn as much as I can).
Thank you again for your time and willingness to answer questions. It's a huge help.
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 07, 2015, 01:42:57 pm
Thanks man. :) I apreciate that, i think it's important for me to pay forward all the knowledge I picked up from everyone else here. Now I'm addicted. :D Make sure you get that build thread up so we can watch your work.
Post by: mcseforsale on March 26, 2015, 04:12:48 pm
On another note, he found a pretty monster PC to drive the thing. It's an AMD dual core with 4 GB of ram and a huge HD. My plan is to have it serve as a jukebox, MAME/Arcade and household file server. He's a musician and after talking to him it would be nice for him to have a central place to keep all his tunes and lyrics and stuff. So, the PC will probably continuously run for the most part.
Teaser shot:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/Old_Number_7/20150321_1838341_zps79f2b9d3.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/Old_Number_7/20150321_1838341_zps79f2b9d3.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/Old_Number_7/20150321_1838431_zps8222472c.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/Old_Number_7/20150321_1838431_zps8222472c.jpg.html)
Look for the "I'm totally ripping off ChanceKJ's Flynn's Arcade project just like I did with Knievel's Slimline" build thread. Coming at you this weekend!
AJ
Post by: mcseforsale on March 26, 2015, 04:16:40 pm
AJ
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 26, 2015, 09:07:13 pm
Awesome job. It's seriously strange seeing something so similar yet so different.
Post by: mcseforsale on March 26, 2015, 09:22:29 pm
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg.html)
Sorry...I just love that pic.
AJ
Post by: zahhhkinnn on March 27, 2015, 11:25:22 am
can you tell me which volume knob/potentiometer you bought for this and how do you wired it, i have the exact same set of speakers,
if you have an ebay link or something for the part it will be great :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 27, 2015, 11:31:45 am
It's a Griffin PowerMate. I did a tear down here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139540.msg1443132.html#msg1443132 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139540.msg1443132.html#msg1443132)
Post by: zahhhkinnn on March 27, 2015, 11:51:49 am
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-pcs-Alpha-50KA-A50K-50K-Dual-Logarithmic-Audio-Pot-Potentiometer-15mm-1-4W-/300921414376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46105062e8 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-pcs-Alpha-50KA-A50K-50K-Dual-Logarithmic-Audio-Pot-Potentiometer-15mm-1-4W-/300921414376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46105062e8)
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 27, 2015, 11:57:55 am
Post by: abkaz on March 27, 2015, 12:20:17 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 27, 2015, 12:31:01 pm
Aliexpress.com. Same vendor as the buttons actualy. (Can't remeber off the top of my head who they were) but ask the vendors when you do your reserch if they have the button caps. I had to go with a smaller button for that switch as they only had caps for those, and not the larger momentary ones I used for the Mac and tv power.
Post by: Scotty_C on April 06, 2015, 11:34:53 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 06, 2015, 11:37:44 pm
Post by: KPowers on May 17, 2015, 09:27:40 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 17, 2015, 09:30:35 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 19, 2015, 04:52:16 pm
Post by: zahhhkinnn on May 20, 2015, 01:44:20 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 20, 2015, 02:44:27 pm
Post by: Manorite on June 07, 2015, 11:22:20 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 07, 2015, 11:27:03 pm
It's always best to go full bleed on your artwork and trim to fit. Also, I can't remember what page it's on, but I have a section of the build on trimming it properly to avoid bubbles on the edge with t-moulding.
Post by: Vincefaro on June 09, 2015, 02:25:30 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 09, 2015, 02:29:44 pm
Post by: BlackMage on June 09, 2015, 05:47:51 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 09, 2015, 06:23:39 pm
Post by: BlackMage on June 09, 2015, 06:50:57 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 09, 2015, 08:21:19 pm
Post by: mgb on June 13, 2015, 12:15:13 am
:applaud:
very nicely done.
I love how clean and slick it is.
Post by: jmcginley on July 31, 2015, 11:44:50 am
Awesome build! I just read through all 17 pages and it was so informative! Just wanted to get clarification on one thing. In order to wire up the buttons/joysticks/trackball as well as the LEDs, what would you recommend? I saw you post somewhere else saying to get 2 I-PAC Ultimate I/O for a setup such as this. So that will take care of the LEDs as well as the controls? Anything else that would need to be purchased?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 31, 2015, 12:26:17 pm
Post by: deezdrama on July 31, 2015, 10:56:01 pm
Thanks! :) You are correct. A pair of ultimates would control and light all the buttons. That and wiring up LED's and the buttons should be it.
I know you recommended the same thing for my work in progress cab.
Im curious.... will wiring up 2 ultimate i/o's make mame setup confusing?
I was under the impression that I could get away with a single ipac4, but then would need led driver,and optipac....right?
So is the ultimate io basically an ipac2,led driver,opti all in one?
Do they make a 4 player ultimate?
Sorry.... im sure these are dumb questions... just still a little confused on what to plan on ordering for first cab
Post by: chadmoe1 on August 01, 2015, 12:17:17 pm
With regards to the ultimate i/o's, I contacted Andy at Ultimarc and he stated that he did not build in unique ID's for those boards, so it is unlikely that your OS would handle both. For the mega board setup as in this build and what I'm doing, he suggested two PacLED64s to control lights and two Mini-Pacs for controls. His trackball setup has usb options as well, but they make a mini-Pac that can handle a trackball and a spinner. I'm not sure if anyone else had success with two ultimate i/o's, but I trust Andy's advice. Good luck, and thanks again Chance!
Post by: subjimbo on September 13, 2015, 08:58:34 pm
How have you found the 4player CP with the 32" TV? Is that large enough for those extra two players?
I am in the process of planning my setup. Just ordered some test buttons from GGG / Paraside Arcade to find out which setup I like the feel of. 10-20 days to Australia, I'm hanging out to get them!
I really want 4 players because I always have a load of people over and it would get used but I am worried about the monitor not 'feeling' in the right spot for that 3/4 player. How have you found this?
Also, Are you able to share your CP dimensions / CnC diagram? It looks the perfect size!
First, awesome build and amazing description of the entire process! I'm been pseudo-stalking this build as I began designing and building my own arcade. I'll likely document as well, and I'll send a link Chance to make sure you get credit for all of the help -- your ideas and implementation were a great inspiration.
With regards to the ultimate i/o's, I contacted Andy at Ultimarc and he stated that he did not build in unique ID's for those boards, so it is unlikely that your OS would handle both. For the mega board setup as in this build and what I'm doing, he suggested two PacLED64s to control lights and two Mini-Pacs for controls. His trackball setup has usb options as well, but they make a mini-Pac that can handle a trackball and a spinner. I'm not sure if anyone else had success with two ultimate i/o's, but I trust Andy's advice. Good luck, and thanks again Chance!
Andy also said this to me - Use 2x PacLED64's and 2x Mini-iPAC's so you can put the boards at either side of the CP and still have room for a trackball in the middle - Seems logical. A setup like Chance's needs a load of LED channels and the only way to get them is 2x PacLED64's!
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 13, 2015, 09:37:22 pm
32" is pretty big. Almost too big for the p3/4 spots. 27" would actually be fine as well. Definitely would t go any bigger then 32. Remember a vast majority of these games were only ever on 19" - 25" monitors. If Simpsons or TMNT Konami cabs can stand the test of time on a 25"CRT 4:3 monitor with 4 players 32" is WAY more than enough.
Post by: subjimbo on September 13, 2015, 10:37:41 pm
Thanks!
32" is pretty big. Almost too big for the p3/4 spots. 27" would actually be fine as well. Definitely would t go any bigger then 32. Remember a vast majority of these games were only ever on 19" - 25" monitors. If Simpsons or TMNT Konami cabs can stand the test of time on a 25"CRT 4:3 monitor with 4 players 32" is WAY more than enough.
Great! Thank's a load for the swift reply. Looking forward to getting my buttons to test out. I love the look of the black plunger, magic!
How wide is your CP?
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 14, 2015, 01:13:33 am
Post by: fablog on November 18, 2015, 03:06:25 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 18, 2015, 03:10:52 pm
Honestly, not really a fan of how the grill attaches to the part that screws down the the wood. It's supposed to be a friction fit, but you'll need to ad hear the two peices together some how. I used a small strip of felt in the gap.
Honestly, unless you REALLLY want these ones they aren't worth the extra step.
Post by: fablog on November 18, 2015, 03:18:52 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 18, 2015, 03:24:41 pm
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/2028340546.html (http://m.aliexpress.com/item/2028340546.html)
Screws show, might take a bit to ship, but it looks like a simpler install.
Parts express might have an equivalent, or you might find something at a local car/home audio install shop. I'd do a little homework and research to find what you like best. Grills are cheap, maybe buy a couple and see what you like.
Post by: Rick on November 18, 2015, 04:48:56 pm
A quick google search found this
An even quicker link found this (http://www.gameroomdesigns.ca/shop/accessories/speaker-cover-4-inch/).
8)
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 18, 2015, 05:15:37 pm
A quick google search found this
An even quicker link found this (http://www.gameroomdesigns.ca/shop/accessories/speaker-cover-4-inch/).
8)
Yep! Also a good choice! :D
Post by: Rick on November 18, 2015, 09:59:02 pm
Yep! Also a good choice! :D
Thanks! (Edit: I actually just updated the image, as it was all wrong. The speaker grills I have are actually EXACTLY like the link you posted. They're metal, and come in two pieces, so that you can install them and hide the screws at the same time.)
Post by: rablack97 on November 18, 2015, 09:59:50 pm
http://www.8linesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=8line&Product_Code=iron-speaker-cover (http://www.8linesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=8line&Product_Code=iron-speaker-cover)
Post by: JudgeRob on December 01, 2015, 09:55:49 pm
Thanks and congrats. I can't wait to call mine "finished". :)
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 01, 2015, 10:04:43 pm
One regret about the sticks was putting 360s on there. Too fancy, just that added layer of software I don't like dealing with, they don't seem to play well with all emulators as they are considered extra devices, etc etc. I should have just tossed 4 j-sticks in and been done with it. I've even gone so far to add sets of micro switches to the bottom of the 360's for the feel of them.
Besides if I want to play a game with a 4-way stick I lift up the CP top, rotate the restrictor plate. Done.
Post by: GreenGriffon on December 07, 2015, 07:24:46 pm
Quick question - you didn't happen to post a PDF for your marquee artwork, did you?
I'm looking for a very high res picture of the Flynn's Arcade token like you have in your marquee, but the only one I can find is cropped too much to be able to use.
Would you mind posting yours if you haven't already?
Thanks very much,
GG
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 07, 2015, 09:21:29 pm
Yeah, I know the one you're talking about. I had to rebuild the rest of the coin that was missing. But no, I never thought to make that available. I think it's a tif file. I'll have to look when I get home.
Post by: fryed_1 on December 09, 2015, 04:27:20 pm
and FWIW I'd put my "walmart special" mongoose up against a GT any day ;)
(http://aoc.pandapub.com/images/bike1.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 09, 2015, 04:29:40 pm
Haha "wal-Mart special" did it smash to bits after this pic was taken? :P
Post by: fryed_1 on December 09, 2015, 06:31:19 pm
:cheers:
Haha "wal-Mart special" did it smash to bits after this pic was taken? :P
hehe Mongoose has a two bike lines. One that sells in the dept and consumer store and the pro line. That is an '09 boot'r, one of the big boy models.
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 09, 2015, 06:35:48 pm
Post by: coldcoffeecup on December 17, 2015, 03:23:07 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 17, 2015, 05:36:21 pm
Very impressive build! It's given me a lot of inspiration and ideas for my own, first MAME cabinet. Hopefully by mid year 2016 I will have something ready for my new game room!
Thanks Man! Make sure you post what you build!
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 18, 2015, 03:23:01 pm
Hey! I have 2 quick questions for you about your awesome Flynn's Arcade project. Since I just joined this forum, I'm not sure if PM is better than replying to the original thread. If you'd prefer I can re-ask there!
1) I see you have fan vents, but no fans. Do you find your electronics get very hot? I've seen a lot of people insist on good airflow, but then again, they also might be using a higher end PC build.
2) The artwork Brad made for your CP looks fantastic! You mentioned using a polycarb laminate. Is this what makes it look so glossy? Lots of people seem to like putting a plexiglass layer over the CP, but it didn't look like you did. I am not a big fan of the plexiglass look.
Thanks in advance!
HEY!
As per my reply to your PM, best to post them in the thread for all too see :)
1) Yeah, i didnt need any fans. really just passive airflow works. I'm running a MacMini and a Toshiba TV, Airflow is not an issue at all. as long as its not sealed in a tomb you would be ok.
2)The side art is standard glossy laminate . The control panel is laminated with Polycarb, this gives it quite a rough matte texture. It washes out the colour in the art a tiny bit, but honestly, its not an issue. All my control panels are getting this poly laminate going forward. I personally don't like plexy on my control panels and make a point to remove it unless its a restore and the original had it, (Check out my Namco/JAMMA project, had plexi, now has polycarb). This polycarb isn't bomb proof, but its close enough. It will hold up to the trials of a home arcade.
IF you choose to use plexi on top of your CP, your best bet is to have your artwork laminated with a third option, and thats a matte laminate. it won't "stick" to the underside of the plexi like gloss does.
You also mentioned budget, (but i removed that from the quote). half way through this build i started counting beans and it made me a bit depressed. Try to be cost effective with your build where you can, sourcing cheaper parts, sales, deals. But don't hang yourself when you blow past your budget, as you probably will. Do a RELENTLESS amount of planning in the beginning before you cut anything or drop a dime on any parts. Plan it out, then try to stick to it.
Post by: coldcoffeecup on December 26, 2015, 02:54:00 pm
There are what look to be a few good 2015 choices for TVs/monitors which offer 1080p resolution, and a similar angle to the one you went with. Am I overthinking this?
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 26, 2015, 02:56:35 pm
Get a decent 32" panel that holds its colour well at a 45° angle and has the port on it you need to connect to your computer.
Post by: yotsuya on December 26, 2015, 04:13:26 pm
Post by: rablack97 on December 26, 2015, 04:57:54 pm
Post by: yotsuya on December 26, 2015, 05:30:42 pm
Jiminy Integration Vermuth Excretion..... :applaud:
Pray to J I got the same ol' same ol'.
Post by: rablack97 on December 26, 2015, 06:46:16 pm
Post by: Rick on December 29, 2015, 08:48:02 pm
Brang the coal upside his head jack....cold got to be!!! Shiii :afro:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0j2dVuhr6s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0j2dVuhr6s)
8)
Post by: BlackMage on February 02, 2016, 11:41:30 pm
Post by: BlackMage on February 02, 2016, 11:44:11 pm
Post by: Brizzle on February 04, 2016, 10:02:53 am
Post by: jbl77 on February 08, 2016, 12:16:14 am
Figured I would use this opportunity to come out of lurking to give you props for job well done. :applaud:
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 08, 2016, 07:03:09 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 15, 2016, 10:44:03 pm
I am in the planning stages of my first build and have found your thread and truly inspired. I am wondering if you had psd files for the side panels and cp to customize the designs. I know your post has the side panels but wondering how that works by bringing it to staples and getting 4x8 panels printed. Any help for a noob would be great.
Thanks
Jon
Hey Thanks!
I didn't post the CP top because the design for that was borrowed from another build.
Jarrett's design is here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960)
If you use the download link in the first post of my build (its just above the pictures), you can download the PDF file. Just take it to Staples and have them print it out 1 to 1 full size on their large document printer. Its usually a Xerox printer from the ones i've seen. It should cost you less then $15. It prints on rolled paper, so you'l be left with large sheets with some small lines on top. Take a couple of those and use them as a template by attaching them to your sheet of wood with tape or spray adhesive. Then just cut them out with a jigsaw and a strait edge.
Post by: coldcoffeecup on February 22, 2016, 11:32:53 am
Which type of tint did you go with from onedayglass? I'm looking at their options, and if I had to guess I would say maybe 'Dark Gray', but I have no clue how that translates to a % of light which passes through, which is typically how tinting is measured (I think?).
I really like the idea of using tinted glass instead of a traditional bezel that's masked off. How well does the tint you went with prevent you from seeing the TV (frame, etc) behind the glass?
There are a lot of custom glass places in my local area, and I was thinking about getting some estimates, but it's hard for me to guess about what % tinting would accomplish what I'm going for.
Thanks in advance!
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 22, 2016, 03:57:03 pm
Honestly, glass would be one of the things I'd change if I did this all over again. Tinted plexi is cheaper and lighter. There are a couple small blemishes inside the glass in a couple of spots that made me have to fiddle with its orientation a few times. Total pain in the ass. OneDayGlass is good, but they can't guarantee optical quality glass. You won't see the small blemishes until it's right up to a screen and in between you and the gameplay. I first noticed it playing SMB. it sat right on Mario. Haha.
As long as you black out the area behind the cabinet, with paint or some sort of black cardboard or fabric shroud. Use electrical tape on any LED's or logos on the display (don't cover the IR sensor) you'll be fine. Mine looks cool because it's a screen floating in a black space when it's on.
But yeah, I'd look for an industrial plastics supplier in your area (we have one here I use now for all my other projects). It's a way better and cheaper option then glass. For various reasons.
Post by: coldcoffeecup on February 22, 2016, 04:57:33 pm
Any advice on material or tinting style? I'm not very familiar with translucent plastics, so I'll need to do some research I suppose.
Post by: yotsuya on February 22, 2016, 05:03:21 pm
Post by: coldcoffeecup on February 22, 2016, 05:35:03 pm
Be careful with plexi, though... it will scratch easier than glass. Use clean microfiber towels to clean it, not paper towels or anything like that.
I spoke with a plastic company locally and they suggested either polycarbonate, or acrylic. They mentioned the acrylic is more resistant to scratches.
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 22, 2016, 05:44:40 pm
If you're really worried about scratches get a bottle of Novus, they should sell it where you get the plastic.
I wouldn't overthink it. :)
Post by: jbl77 on February 28, 2016, 01:12:23 am
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7696/17251281373_8187336747_c.jpg)
Hmmm....I wonder if/how this would work in this application. Diamaters look close:
https://www.adafruit.com/products/2851 (https://www.adafruit.com/products/2851)
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 28, 2016, 12:25:53 pm
Post by: jmcginley on March 03, 2016, 01:38:31 pm
1) Will there be enough power to run 2 RGB LEDs off of the same 3 pins? Will they be more dim?
If I can get away with using only 3 pins for the 2 RGB LEDs on each joystick, then I think I can run my entire CP off of one Ultimate I/O. If I'll need to use 6 pins for the 2 RGB LEDs, then I've got to rethink some stuff or buy another LED controller.
2) Are the Paradise Arcade LEDs holding up well with PacLED64s? I've read that some LEDs are dim or will degrade more quickly due to some resistor discrepancies with 3rd party LEDs on Ultimarc products.
Post by: dropper on March 09, 2016, 10:23:15 am
Hey Chance, on page 12 you show pictures and talk about making LED pairs for your joysticks with LEDs purchased from Paradise Arcade. I'd like to do the same with my joysticks in order to save space on my Ultimate I/O. Just had a couple questions on that:
1) Will there be enough power to run 2 RGB LEDs off of the same 3 pins? Will they be more dim?
If I can get away with using only 3 pins for the 2 RGB LEDs on each joystick, then I think I can run my entire CP off of one Ultimate I/O. If I'll need to use 6 pins for the 2 RGB LEDs, then I've got to rethink some stuff or buy another LED controller.
2) Are the Paradise Arcade LEDs holding up well with PacLED64s? I've read that some LEDs are dim or will degrade more quickly due to some resistor discrepancies with 3rd party LEDs on Ultimarc products.
All of the RGB's run off of the same 5V line, so whether you hook them up to one pin, or multiple, they are all running in parallel. You would only see dimming if you ran any of your LEDs in series.
The PacLED64 and Ultimate I/O both manage the current at 20ma, so you shouldn't run into any issues with LEDs degrading. The PacDrive could damage an LED with unrestricted current. You can also run current from a separate source and just use the grounds from the PacLED64. I am doing that with my 12V Bulgin switches.
Keith
Post by: dropper on March 09, 2016, 10:47:56 am
I need to get some pics of the wiring cleaned up and actually hooked up to the UIO.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1603/24788287430_63668032a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DLssf3)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1444/24942807322_ef63006d67_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/E17pC7)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1618/24942802342_07f0faa2d6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/E17o9f)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1546/25101060075_466e235b32_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ef6uDR)
Video:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1454/25159493175_1177c104e6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EkfYM6)
Keith
Post by: dkersten on March 09, 2016, 06:39:20 pm
The PacLED64 and Ultimate I/O both manage the current at 20ma, so you shouldn't run into any issues with LEDs degrading.FYI, the GGG RGB Drive II LEDs were actually 18ma max rated when I bought them 2 years ago, so even with a resistor the UIO (or PacLED64) will feed it 20ma and they will degrade over time.. I have several that are dim on certain colors, flicker in and out, and in general are working poorly. For the record, Randy offered to take them back and refund my money even though it was my mistake in using those LED's with Ultimarc's controller. I did purchase Ultimarc's LED's to replace them but I never got around to swapping them, so I still have those GGG LED's in my cab, which is fine because it only gets used twice a year, lol. Some day I will spend the time replacing all 24 LED's, if I am REALLY bored.
It is a good idea to be cautious when buying LED's to use with a controller that manages the current. Not all LEDs are created equal. The GGG specs on their website say that the RGB Drive II consume 20ma, so perhaps they use a slightly different LED component now, or maybe that is just a ballpark to calculate total current draw. Either way, the ones I got were slightly overdriven with the UIO and if I were doing it again, I would buy the Ultimarc LED's just to be safe.
Post by: thepro8 on March 28, 2016, 05:35:22 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 06, 2016, 06:01:39 pm
Ok have a question, what would you don't you like / what would you do differently in your component selection?
1. Used plexi instead of glass: Its heavy, impractical, and not as optically clear as you'd think.
2. Not used the Lono2: Its "Ok", but i think i would have been happier with I-PAC4's or I/O Ultimate's.
3. Not used Ultimarc 360's: Or at least added the octo restrictors and tougher springs. I also don't like the extra software you need to deal with. I have since added microswitches to mine, and pulled the PCB out, primarily for feel.
4. A better back panel: The threaded inserts i used were overly complex when i could have used a cam lock and rabbits on the wood like on most real arcade cabinets.
Post by: nipsmg on April 12, 2016, 12:53:27 pm
... but I ended up using the IL buttons that now come pre-done with the black inserts and the same RGB illumination, only using an Ultimate I/O instead of the PacLED.
I need to get some pics of the wiring cleaned up and actually hooked up to the UIO.
...
I'm curious how/when you got the LEDs.. they've been sold out for weeks now :( I really want to go with that solution, but I can't find the LEDs anywhere else, and may have to abandon the ILs for something else.
Post by: rablack97 on April 12, 2016, 01:37:30 pm
(http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/147-large_default/il-lumination-5vdc-rgb-led.jpg)
You can also go with GGG's helio9 leds, they are pricey but they work really well.
(http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/images/large/Helio9_LRG.jpg)
Post by: nipsmg on April 13, 2016, 08:26:55 am
Post by: rablack97 on April 13, 2016, 10:56:12 am
I saw those Helio 9's, but would they work inside the IL pushbutton? I was really hoping to use the same buttons Chance did (black with the transparent bezel).
There's nothing special about the buttons chance used, i did the same thing 7-8 years ago in blacks magic.
You can either make your own if you have the stock or just buy these from paradise arcade.
(http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/1226-large_default/il-psl-l-cv-translucent-with-black-convex-plunger.jpg)
Paradise is the only spot I know of that sells the IL clear, its just a black plunger inside of an IL clear casing. The Helios led's fit and work just fine in that setup.
(https://talk.dallasmakerspace.org/uploads/default/original/2X/a/ad63296a5852258b64c8f037ad5fa4379cfdd0c7.png)
(https://talk.dallasmakerspace.org/uploads/default/original/2X/a/a39486c41386860e9185bc27deb9e69c8a2a5380.png)
Post by: DarthBS on May 24, 2016, 08:45:04 am
Post by: DarthBS on May 24, 2016, 09:29:03 am
Post by: DarthBS on June 02, 2016, 12:38:40 pm
Post by: yotsuya on June 02, 2016, 01:42:26 pm
Chance, you can pm me if you don't want to post it here (not sure if i can even receive pms yet lol) but how much did you roughly spend on everything for this build?One million dollars, Canadian.
Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
Post by: yotsuya on June 02, 2016, 01:42:37 pm
Post by: DarthBS on June 02, 2016, 03:23:46 pm
Oh, and you might have better luck with him on KLOV.
I just realized I replied 3 times in a row to the same thread lol.
noob question of the day....what is KLOV?
Post by: Charlie97L on June 02, 2016, 03:32:53 pm
Post by: DarthBS on June 02, 2016, 04:01:05 pm
It's a site/forum that mostly focuses on restoration/repair/collection of original arcade hardware, from what I can see.
thanks!
Post by: PL1 on June 02, 2016, 04:03:30 pm
what is KLOV?It's the arcade-museum site and forums -- a great resource for finding info and parts for dedicated cabs.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/ (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/)
Scott
Post by: DarthBS on June 02, 2016, 04:18:53 pm
Post by: yotsuya on June 02, 2016, 04:23:35 pm
thansk guys. i signed up and got banned for 30 minutes for not logging in with the right username on one page and my email on the other. not my day lolWhen you do send them a p.m. there, make sure you tell him I sent you.
Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
Post by: yotsuya on June 02, 2016, 04:24:54 pm
Post by: yotsuya on June 02, 2016, 04:27:25 pm
Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 08, 2016, 12:39:11 am
Oh, and you might have better luck with him on KLOV.
^^^^This is good advice.^^^^
...how much did you roughly spend on everything for this build?
a LOT. Lost track past $5500 Canadian, (whats that like $50 USD??). But thats including a TON of parts and supplies i didn't use, or had to buy replacements of if i messed something up. This build was my first, a labor of love, and an all out balls to the wall effort of throwing money at things until they were how i imagined them.
...Just, would have used plexi instead of glass... ::)
Post by: DarthBS on July 08, 2016, 09:17:49 am
Oh, and you might have better luck with him on KLOV.
^^^^This is good advice.^^^^...how much did you roughly spend on everything for this build?
a LOT. Lost track past $5500 Canadian, (whats that like $50 USD??). But thats including a TON of parts and supplies i didn't use, or had to buy replacements of if i messed something up. This build was my first, a labor of love, and an all out balls to the wall effort of throwing money at things until they were how i imagined them.
...Just, would have used plexi instead of glass... ::)
thanks for the reply. I am debating making it myself or getting PDX to make it. trying to see how much I would be saving doing it myself. (which in turn could mean jack if I end up messing up over and over)
Post by: Fydo on July 08, 2016, 05:58:28 pm
Awesome build, and a pleasure to read through the log.
Quick question: I love the glow effect around the joysticks. Where did you source the polycarbonate tubing for the "glow rings"? I found one place online but they wanted an arm and a leg for it (and the other arm + leg to ship it!)
Also, since I see you're in Alberta, do you have any of the tubing left over that you'd want to get rid of? :)
Cheers
Post by: jbl77 on July 12, 2016, 12:56:27 am
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Length-Clear-Acrylic-Plexiglass-Tube-Outside-Diameter-3-8-1-2-5-8-3-4-/351488556771?var=&hash=item51d659bee3:m:m9CPmMBRbCscShqkTyNuw6w (http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Length-Clear-Acrylic-Plexiglass-Tube-Outside-Diameter-3-8-1-2-5-8-3-4-/351488556771?var=&hash=item51d659bee3:m:m9CPmMBRbCscShqkTyNuw6w)
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 16, 2016, 09:08:33 pm
I may have some of it leftover.
Post by: Fydo on July 18, 2016, 05:20:14 pm
Post by: jbl77 on July 20, 2016, 12:25:02 am
Post by: hilyou on July 21, 2016, 02:03:37 am
Just wanted to ask what those 4 black knob looking things are in the control panel?
I've seen them in numerous other builds too
On another note, glad to see another Canadian on this forum
Post by: Nephasth on July 21, 2016, 09:02:31 am
Just wanted to ask what those 4 black knob looking things are in the control panel?
(https://i.memecaptain.com/gend_images/NltPxw.jpg)
Post by: nexusmtz on July 22, 2016, 01:27:55 am
Just wanted to ask what those 4 black knob looking things are in the control panel?
They're what they look like. Star Knobs. The bolts come upward, through the board that the control panel rests on. The control panel base has holes the the bolts pass through, and the knobs secure the panel to the cabinet. They just make it easy to remove the panel without tools.
...Once i was happy with the base, i lined up the CP centre with the cab, clamped it down and used the same small forester bit to cut holes through the CP and mounting board. The bolts shown in the picture are just temporary ones i had in case i went with a thicker mounting board. I need to get shorter ones or cut these down.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3863/14423385391_82e4671deb_c.jpg)
Post by: chito on September 05, 2016, 11:55:23 pm
but im not sure if these were available at the time of the build but couldnt you use the PELE ring light for the joysticks?
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/button-leds/580-pele-30mm-led-rings.html (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/button-leds/580-pele-30mm-led-rings.html)
has anyone tried this?
Post by: jemkewl on September 16, 2016, 12:41:16 pm
Chance, first of all great build. I have now read through this twice. Once a while back, and again, yesterday. It is interesting how many ideas I took from you that I didn't realize that I had. Mostly what I have done is a bit of a redo of my control panel and marquee, but I ended up using the IL buttons that now come pre-done with the black inserts and the same RGB illumination, only using an Ultimate I/O instead of the PacLED. I have even incorporated similar Bulgin buttons for power and admin, but I am using the UIO to control the admin buttons as well (power gets its power from the PC).
I need to get some pics of the wiring cleaned up and actually hooked up to the UIO.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1603/24788287430_63668032a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DLssf3)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1444/24942807322_ef63006d67_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/E17pC7)
Keith
Hello Keith,
Can you share where you purchased your black IL buttons with transparent bezel that come pre-done with the color changing RGB LEDs? I too am researching to do a similar control panel and want to light up the bezels for the player, start, controls, etc. in different colors.
Post by: bboris74 on September 22, 2016, 05:34:25 am
Really love your build, its inspired me to build my own but I have a question about your power supply. Is it a 12VDC, 5A, 60W POWER SUPPLY such as the one found here http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=880? (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=880?) If so are you running a direct 12v line into your two PacLED64's? The reason I ask is that the button led's I picked up from Paradise arcade are 5v and if i run 12v power into my PacLED64's I assume I will either shorten the life of my led's and or my PacLED64's.
Thanks,
Bill
Post by: yotsuya on September 22, 2016, 09:03:28 am
Hi Chance,Yeah, just see if you can exchange the 5v leds for 12v ones.
Really love your build, its inspired me to build my own but I have a question about your power supply. Is it a 12VDC, 5A, 60W POWER SUPPLY such as the one found here http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=880? (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=880?) If so are you running a direct 12v line into your two PacLED64's? The reason I ask is that the button led's I picked up from Paradise arcade are 5v and if i run 12v power into my PacLED64's I assume I will either shorten the life of my led's and or my PacLED64's.
Thanks,
Bill
Post by: fablog on September 22, 2016, 06:36:57 pm
Quote
Hello Keith,
Can you share where you purchased your black IL buttons with transparent bezel that come pre-done with the color changing RGB LEDs? I too am researching to do a similar control panel and want to light up the bezels for the player, start, controls, etc. in different colors.
Arcade Paradise ;)
Post by: julezvernez on October 12, 2016, 09:36:38 am
I am working on building my own Arcade... already have parts of the hardware done and Hyperspin running...
Can you let me know where you got the Coin Door?
What kind of Coin-Mech did you use?
Where did you get your own "Flynn's" Coins?
???
THANK YOU for the help,
Julez
Post by: 80sarcadegames on November 30, 2016, 01:57:07 pm
:applaud: Hey !
I am working on building my own Arcade... already have parts of the hardware done and Hyperspin running...
Can you let me know where you got the Coin Door?
What kind of Coin-Mech did you use?
Where did you get your own "Flynn's" Coins?
???
THANK YOU for the help,
Julez
Just read through every post on this thread, all 19 pages of it.
Lots of information!!!! Love the detail of the build shared in this thread!
Couple of questions if the builder ChanceKJ:
1. Where did you buy the black L brackets to hold the marquee in?
2. Did you keep the display frame on and then place weather stripping on the sides, then the tinted glass?
3. How do you control power to everything? Is there a one button control for everything to turn on at once?
Wow! Great cabinet!!
Post by: yotsuya on November 30, 2016, 05:29:40 pm
Post by: gumby510 on December 02, 2016, 03:19:16 am
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-1-in-x-1-in-x-96-in-Metal-Mira-Black-Outside-Corner-Moulding-AT009-AM096C01/205576696 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-1-in-x-1-in-x-96-in-Metal-Mira-Black-Outside-Corner-Moulding-AT009-AM096C01/205576696)
Post by: dgrace on December 04, 2016, 01:20:09 am
Post by: yotsuya on December 04, 2016, 11:51:13 am
I'm digging those speaker grills. Anyone know where he purchased those or where I could get similar ones for my cab? ThanksI don't know. Why don't you PM him?
Post by: eleehl on December 19, 2016, 12:39:51 am
I've literally been lurking on your build for the past month. A neighbor and I are really inspired by your build and are starting to piece everything together for the build! I feel the need to give you props for the amazing work and ideas you've given us!! We won't be able to build anything close to your caliber but we'll do our best and if we don't screw up we'll definitely be posting here!!
Thanks!
E
Post by: yotsuya on December 19, 2016, 05:01:25 pm
Post by: Typefighter01 on December 19, 2016, 08:14:39 pm
I think Chance got thrown into the same pot as Kaneda (for reasons really unknown to me other than he had some hard earned expendable income that he threw at a hobby he enjoyed...something that is frowned upon on this forum as you need to be some cheap ass ---fudgesicle--- that wouldn't pay retail to save a drowning baby to get any respect)...then it turned into a hate parade. Also...he seemed generally happy...another trait frowned upon.
Most of the people I know don't give two shits about building their own arcade cab...think you folks need to embrace (tolerate?) someone that at least enjoys(ed) the hobby and contributed something other than snide ass comments about his forum etiquette (which never bugged me).
Also, who gives a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- when he decides to post here either...some guys don't post here for years and when they do, people jump all over their d$#k.:dunno
Let the thread do what it does...if ya don't like it...ya don't click on it...pretty simple... :cheers:
Actually...not sure I ever posted in this thread, so as not to upset the forum police with an unnecessary bumping, I will say "Good work on the cab...don't think I have seen a more popular design since I joined.". As they say, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!!!".
Post by: yotsuya on December 19, 2016, 09:00:52 pm
Must just burn your guys nuts that that his build keeps floating to the top...I love it.I get along with Chance very well. We chat outside this forum. What I don't like/feel bad for are people who post questions for him and then get ignored. That's why I recommend they PM him. It has nothing to do with being a "hater". :dunno
I think Chance got thrown into the same pot as Kaneda (for reasons really unknown to me other than he had some hard earned expendable income that he threw at a hobby he enjoyed...something that is frowned upon on this forum as you need to be some cheap ass ---fudgesicle--- that wouldn't pay retail to save a drowning baby to get any respect)...then it turned into a hate parade. Also...he seemed generally happy...another trait frowned upon.
Most of the people I know don't give two shits about building their own arcade cab...think you folks need to embrace (tolerate?) someone that at least enjoys(ed) the hobby and contributed something other than snide ass comments about his forum etiquette (which never bugged me).
Also, who gives a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- when he decides to post here either...some guys don't post here for years and when they do, people jump all over their d$#k.:dunno
Let the thread do what it does...if ya don't like it...ya don't click on it...pretty simple... :cheers:
Actually...not sure I ever posted in this thread, so as not to upset the forum police with an unnecessary bumping, I will say "Good work on the cab...don't think I have seen a more popular design since I joined.". As they say, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!!!".
Post by: Typefighter01 on December 19, 2016, 09:43:42 pm
Must just burn your guys nuts that that his build keeps floating to the top...I love it.I get along with Chance very well. We chat outside this forum. What I don't like/feel bad for are people who post questions for him and then get ignored. That's why I recommend they PM him. It has nothing to do with being a "hater". :dunno
I think Chance got thrown into the same pot as Kaneda (for reasons really unknown to me other than he had some hard earned expendable income that he threw at a hobby he enjoyed...something that is frowned upon on this forum as you need to be some cheap ass ---fudgesicle--- that wouldn't pay retail to save a drowning baby to get any respect)...then it turned into a hate parade. Also...he seemed generally happy...another trait frowned upon.
Most of the people I know don't give two shits about building their own arcade cab...think you folks need to embrace (tolerate?) someone that at least enjoys(ed) the hobby and contributed something other than snide ass comments about his forum etiquette (which never bugged me).
Also, who gives a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- when he decides to post here either...some guys don't post here for years and when they do, people jump all over their d$#k.:dunno
Let the thread do what it does...if ya don't like it...ya don't click on it...pretty simple... :cheers:
Actually...not sure I ever posted in this thread, so as not to upset the forum police with an unnecessary bumping, I will say "Good work on the cab...don't think I have seen a more popular design since I joined.". As they say, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!!!".
Mehhh... he took some cheap shots from a lot of people.
Also, I said "hate parade"...not "yotsuya the hater". You know what goes on in here, the people I am talking about and exactly what I am talking about, so lets not not act the different.
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 20, 2016, 04:18:42 pm
Hi Chance,
I've literally been lurking on your build for the past month. A neighbor and I are really inspired by your build and are starting to piece everything together for the build! I feel the need to give you props for the amazing work and ideas you've given us!! We won't be able to build anything close to your caliber but we'll do our best and if we don't screw up we'll definitely be posting here!!
Thanks!
E
Thanks E! I appreciate the kind words. This was my first build, I just took my time, saw what others had done before me and built on that. There have since been some AMAZING interpretations of this cabinet with some wicked ideas that take it further, (i should document them on the first thread some time when i get time). Please do share your build with the rest of the forum, its what this place is all about. :)
I'm digging those speaker grills. Anyone know where he purchased those or where I could get similar ones for my cab? Thanks
Thanks! I received them from a now defunct online store that sold car audio and parts. I'm not 100% happy with them as they are friction fit. I'm Really digging what Scotty_C did with his speakers on his cab Electrocade http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146141.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146141.0.html)
1. Where did you buy the black L brackets to hold the marquee in?
Home Depot, Here in Canada, window and door isle i think. Can't remeber what its called but its aluminium, comes in black, silver and brass finish. and of course a few different sizes.
Just read through every post on this thread, all 19 pages of it.
Lots of information!!!! Love the detail of the build shared in this thread!
Couple of questions if the builder ChanceKJ:
1. Where did you buy the black L brackets to hold the marquee in?
2. Did you keep the display frame on and then place weather stripping on the sides, then the tinted glass?
3. How do you control power to everything? Is there a one button control for everything to turn on at once?
Wow! Great cabinet!!
Thanks! :)
1. See above
2. Yes, the TV wasn't de-cased. The stripping rests on wood rails on the inside of the cab walls. I've got the TV sitting far enough back that when you look through the glass the picture seems to float inside. it's pretty cool. :)
3.Modified a powerbar and relocated the on/off switch for it to the back of the control panel. There should be pictures of that early in the build thread...
...sorry for the late replies :laugh:
Post by: sealcouch on December 20, 2016, 07:17:20 pm
Post by: yotsuya on December 20, 2016, 07:18:38 pm
Post by: KLRinstinct on January 10, 2017, 12:19:46 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 10, 2017, 02:55:12 am
G'day Mate! I just signed up to the forum specifically to say thank-you very much for the awesome write up! Its proved kinda hard to find decent info on cab building online so this has been my saviour. I've been over and over this thread the last week or so and its helped me a lot! I'm now ready to dive in and get this puppy made. Your design is soon to exist way across the ocean in Australia! Gonna go with a more rounded at the front CP and a Street Fighter theme, cant wait!
Thanks! :D if you have any questions please leave them here in the thread and i'll get to them as soon as i can. Also, please leave a link to your build thread so we can all check it out, or at the very least post up a couple pictures.
Post by: KLRinstinct on January 10, 2017, 07:06:49 am
Not much to see yet though. I could use some tips on joysticks and buttons as it turns out. Will be playing mostly beat em up's on the machine would you have any recommendations? Should I make sure I get a SANWA brand stick ya think? Also just thought of another one after scouring your thread again - How much T-moulding did you end up using? TIA
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 10, 2017, 09:49:16 am
Cool, thanks a lot. Ive started a thread here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152916.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152916.0.html)
Not much to see yet though. I could use some tips on joysticks and buttons as it turns out. Will be playing mostly beat em up's on the machine would you have any recommendations? Should I make sure I get a SANWA brand stick ya think?
Cool! I'll make sure to check it out.
Controls are VERY subject. As for buttons a good solid choice is always a HAPP or IL Button from Paradise Arcade. If you want to spend a little more, I'd say both CLASSX from GroovyGameGear with leaf switches, or the Gold Leaf buttons from Ultimarc. Both are solid high end choices Both are solid high end choices you might want to look at for the type of games you're playing.
Sticks are tough, with so many options it's confusing. Most games in particilar play best with the stick they were actually shipped with back in the day. Which is why I try and put the right one with the right game when I'm doing a restore: 4" Wico for Robotron, Nintendo sticks for Nintendo games, etc. In the MAME world I keep coming back to JSticks from Ultimarc, a good SANWA, or some of the more pricey leaf switch sticks for a higher end from GGG. Again, all personal preference.
Don't worry over it too much, remember, this is supposed to be fun. :)
Post by: Modigy on January 10, 2017, 01:42:11 pm
Post by: Rockstead on January 10, 2017, 02:08:51 pm
Post by: CoOlSlY on January 10, 2017, 02:56:18 pm
Just wondering where the custom tokens were sourced? They are very nice along with the rest of the build.
Those are not customs, he said earlier (don't remember the page though) that they were leftover tokens...
Post by: Rockstead on January 10, 2017, 06:52:44 pm
Just wondering where the custom tokens were sourced? They are very nice along with the rest of the build.
Those are not customs, he said earlier (don't remember the page though) that they were leftover tokens...
OK thanks, I figured since the name of the tokens matched the name in the Marquee that they were custom.
Post by: KLRinstinct on January 10, 2017, 09:59:36 pm
Hey Chance. I'm just talking with a printer now to see about getting the PDF plan printed out and he's saying "The PDF file is setup at a standard A1 size (841mm x 594mm)".
He's wondering what size I want it enlarged to and I'm not sure about this.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 10, 2017, 10:25:37 pm
Just wondering where the custom tokens were sourced? They are very nice along with the rest of the build.
Those are not customs, he said earlier (don't remember the page though) that they were leftover tokens...
OK thanks, I figured since the name of the tokens matched the name in the Marquee that they were custom.
You are correct. The tokens came from Disney back when they had a Tron themed arcade that closed down a couple years ago. The marquee is a close up shot of one of the same tokens that I found, cleaned up, and had to rebuild one side of. Just gettin' clever with what I had available. :D
Hey Chance. I'm just talking with a printer now to see about getting the PDF plan printed out and he's saying "The PDF file is setup at a standard A1 size (841mm x 594mm)".
He's wondering what size I want it enlarged to and I'm not sure about this.
Um, PDF should be 1-1 when the original file is printed on a large format printer. They should not have to modify the document size at all.
From post#22 of this thread, here are the rough measures of the cab. Before it was refined for the CnC.
I can check the exact measurement of a particular dimension if you need a point of reference as well.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/10340823346_cdddcdc196_c.jpg) (http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/10340811855_7f4831cb85_c.jpg)
Post by: yotsuya on January 10, 2017, 10:27:51 pm
Post by: KLRinstinct on January 10, 2017, 10:48:14 pm
Hey Chance, what do you suggest regarding trying to reduce the sodium in my diet?
Simple. Eat less sodium.
Thanks for that Chase. Yeah I found them and sent them to him and said if you expand it evenly until the back edge hits the 5'4" mark we should be right. Hope he can handle it.
Post by: KLRinstinct on January 10, 2017, 11:35:41 pm
Just thought id mention this PDF is only 33 by 23 inches in both my and the printers pdf viewers. It cant be 1:1 lol. Not that I'm complaining or anything its still a huge help as is.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 11, 2017, 10:03:23 am
No worries, I have updated the download package to include a 1-to-1 scale PDF document for better printing on large format printers. I've amended the old attachment to "Version 2.0" found here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385)
Post by: yotsuya on January 11, 2017, 10:46:49 am
Hey Chance, who should I pick this weekend, Dallas or Green Bay?
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 12, 2017, 02:24:51 am
Post by: yotsuya on January 12, 2017, 07:54:50 am
Cowboys, 27-24 fo sho.We are no longer homies.
Post by: KLRinstinct on January 13, 2017, 09:24:42 pm
Insert noob question here.. lol. I edited this out coz I found the answers to my questions while you were away... :)
Post by: ginkgoblue on January 17, 2017, 05:44:28 pm
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: yotsuya on January 17, 2017, 06:56:25 pm
Post by: processedmeat on January 20, 2017, 01:53:03 pm
I'm thinking about a 32" TV like you and I was wondering if you feel like you missed out on anything with the TV being 720p or gained anything with it being 120Hz? I know the games are much lower in resolution but I'm planning on using the simulated widescreen bezels on mine and they were almost photorealistic on my 1080p monitor.
Also, is this TV able to turn itself on after detecting a signal like a computer monitor? Is there a specific feature I need to look for in shopping for these monitors?
Thanks for answering my questions.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 21, 2017, 09:34:36 pm
Chance, great build.Honestly no, i chose a TV based on how it looked off angle, i wanted to make sure if people were playing on the 3 or 4 player spots that they could still see a decent picture. Unless there is a feature that you really feel you need, don't over think it too much. Also, this TV wasn't turning on when detecting signals, so i soldered a lead to the solder side of the power button PCB and ran it to the power button panel i had on the back of the CP.
I'm thinking about a 32" TV like you and I was wondering if you feel like you missed out on anything with the TV being 720p or gained anything with it being 120Hz? I know the games are much lower in resolution but I'm planning on using the simulated widescreen bezels on mine and they were almost photorealistic on my 1080p monitor.
Also, is this TV able to turn itself on after detecting a signal like a computer monitor? Is there a specific feature I need to look for in shopping for these monitors?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3758/11381427476_f259700dee_b.jpg)
Hey Chance, looks like you were wrong on that Cowboys pick. Who do you like this weekend? Let me know so I can bet accordingly.
I'm not always right.
Pats and Falcons for the win, with Pats winning on the 5th.
Hey Chance, AWESOME build man. One question though, when you wired up the dual LEDs for the joystick lights, how did you connect them to the controller? Did you wore them in series to one (or 3 RGB) output? Or did you wire them to separate channels that have the same color setting at all times?
Thanks! I wired the two of them up together and into one channel so they were always the same colour. So each stick only needs one channel.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3846/14555832572_33ee3bc60e_b.jpg)
Post by: jbl77 on January 27, 2017, 12:34:05 am
http://www.paradoxarcades.com/intro/ (http://www.paradoxarcades.com/intro/)
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 27, 2017, 01:04:31 am
crazy resemblance...
http://www.paradoxarcades.com/intro/ (http://www.paradoxarcades.com/intro/)
Yep, he uses my design for his cabs that he builds and sells. Kinda cool actually :D
Post by: yotsuya on January 27, 2017, 12:17:34 pm
Considering Jarrett never actually built it, I guess it's safe to say the design belongs to the community. :-)Yep, he uses my design for his cabs that he builds and sells. Kinda cool actually :DYour design?
You mean jarrett's design , right?
Your entire cab is based on his form factor.
Post by: wp34 on January 27, 2017, 01:11:22 pm
Considering Jarrett never actually built it, I guess it's safe to say the design belongs to the community. :-)Yep, he uses my design for his cabs that he builds and sells. Kinda cool actually :DYour design?
You mean jarrett's design , right?
Your entire cab is based on his form factor.
Did Jarrett design the whole cabinet or just the CP? I remember seeing the CP mock-up but not a cabinet.
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 30, 2017, 02:12:48 pm
The dimensions, layout, functions, etc of the cabinet are my own design with some cad help from HaRuMaN who added the corner radius and 4° slope for the control panel ledge. Those are the plans I have made free to the community. The inner panels I have left out of said plans for community interpretation and evolution of the design.
These are facts that can be obtained if you simply read the fist post of the thread where I give credit where credit is due. Then also see the subsequent posts in this thread where I show my work.
Post by: jbl77 on January 30, 2017, 11:38:53 pm
Post by: opt2not on January 30, 2017, 11:48:53 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 31, 2017, 01:09:01 am
Sorry for bringing this up. Didn't mean to spin up the wheel for some axe grinding :(
Not at all a problem :) if anything I should be doing more to help promote his business.
Post by: Alkahest on February 22, 2017, 09:08:06 pm
If possible could I please get the width of the CP Base, the height of the cab, and the height and width of the speaker panel? Those should clear up the issues I'm having.
Post by: Scotty_C on February 23, 2017, 06:03:59 pm
In this post he listed rough dimensions of the CP base
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1499869.html#msg1499869 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1499869.html#msg1499869)
Post by: Alkahest on February 23, 2017, 07:47:22 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 24, 2017, 05:16:12 am
(Sorry i didn't get to this sooner, i'm out of town till tomorrow.)
Post by: pingu08 on March 20, 2017, 07:21:31 pm
First up, you were truly an inspiration on my build. it's far from what you achieve but hey I'm still happy with my first ''handwork'' project.
PS: the IL boutton now comes with that little hole on the side for the LED. thanks for that!!!!:P
But I have one issue with the brightness of all my leds that you can help me out maybe.
I have the same item as you....
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/button-leds/1835-il-lumination-rgb-5vdc-led-rev-a.html
combine with
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/buttons-il-industrias-lorenzo/809-il-psl-l-translucent-with-black-concave-plunger.html
Are your photos taken with lights off ???
My buttons are simple not glowing !!! I'm connected via the power source of my Ipac ultimate and I simply don't get a quarter of your photos.
I can add pics if you want but I simply get a glare of the leds and need to look at it from the top (90 degres) to get a descent result.
I tried wrapped the bottom of the buttons with tape but didn't help.
Any comeback from your end will be appreciated.
Thanks
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 22, 2017, 08:07:36 am
Thanks for the kind words on the build :)
I'm really not sure what the issue could be. How are you controlling the lights? What are you using to power them? How are they wired up? Most of my pictures were taken with the lights on. And my buttons are pretty bright. Pictures would be great.
Post by: dgrace on June 30, 2017, 03:22:08 pm
Post by: dgrace on July 09, 2017, 01:24:00 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 10, 2017, 08:20:37 pm
Can I ask where you got your speaker grill from? I apologize if you've already answered this question. ThanksNo worries! The Speaker grills came from Parts Express.
https://www.parts-express.com/steel-mesh-2-piece-grill-for-6-speaker-black--260-418 (https://www.parts-express.com/steel-mesh-2-piece-grill-for-6-speaker-black--260-418)
They have a number of options now. I'd check out their site.
Hey Chance (or anyone), do you have any more specific I instructions on where exactly to attach the cleats to the large side panels, especially the top section for the marquee? So I'm not just winging that part. Thank you!
I winged it myself. There wasn't really any manual or blue prints to that part, or the base of the control panel. I just built it second by section, pre planning how I wanted things to be. Thats kinda the beauty of this design. A good foundation to start with and then ample room to make it your own for your own needs. I've seen a number of variants on the cab now that did away with simple things i needed, and simplified things that i over engineered (like the back panel).
Post by: Rockstead on July 11, 2017, 09:44:09 am
Had you considered a pedestal at any point instead of a cabinet based on the Control Panel and screen size? Typically most control panels I see that large are being used in a Pedestal type setup.
Just wanted your thoughts on that, I want a similarly sized control panel but had not considered a cabinet.
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 12, 2017, 12:16:02 pm
Chance,
Had you considered a pedestal at any point instead of a cabinet based on the Control Panel and screen size? Typically most control panels I see that large are being used in a Pedestal type setup.
Just wanted your thoughts on that, I want a similarly sized control panel but had not considered a cabinet.
I didn't. Honestly, i can't think of a single time where i though to go that route. I guess for me the focus was playing games like Konami Simpsons, Metal Slug, and DK. All games that I only ever saw in cabinets. I think thats also the genesis of where my design came from. I wanted the screen hight from my childhood playing Simpsons, but at the initial inset of this project i knew little to nothing about CRT's in relation to the arcade world and gaming and had very little space to work with where i was living. I was struggling with the challenge of the overall form factor and as i was doing my research i found there were a few notable "out of the box" options like Ond's Metropolis. In the end I really didn't see anything avalible for side profile designs i loved, and also found it to be one of those things that everyone made up themselves, with some getting beached on. If you talk a look at the 3rd post in this thread, i had a profile and layout that i wanted to adhere to, but i wanted to make it my own.
Soon after realizing a vast majority of the overall design was building off of the best parts of other cabinets i'd researched, i decided to make the plans free for anyone who wanted to use them. After consulting with HaRuMaN, i commissioned him to take my rough plans into CAD for use on a CnC. He thankfully added a few additions to the side profiles like rounded corners, and a 4º tilt to the control panel mounting surface. Then we did a little back and forth on the button layout to go on Jarrett's CP top design.
In the end this project rests on the shoulders of those who are noted in the first post. All of them. I added a few little things of my own over time, and in the end this is what i was left with. A couple notable things i would have done differently are the back panel design, (which i learned could have been MUCH more simple from the actual cabinets i would go on to restore), as well as the display glass where i should in retrospect have used tinted plexi.
Post by: drewjbx on September 26, 2017, 06:45:41 pm
Chance,
Had you considered a pedestal at any point instead of a cabinet based on the Control Panel and screen size? Typically most control panels I see that large are being used in a Pedestal type setup.
Just wanted your thoughts on that, I want a similarly sized control panel but had not considered a cabinet.
I didn't. Honestly, i can't think of a single time where i though to go that route. I guess for me the focus was playing games like Konami Simpsons, Metal Slug, and DK. All games that I only ever saw in cabinets. I think thats also the genesis of where my design came from. I wanted the screen hight from my childhood playing Simpsons, but at the initial inset of this project i knew little to nothing about CRT's in relation to the arcade world and gaming and had very little space to work with where i was living. I was struggling with the challenge of the overall form factor and as i was doing my research i found there were a few notable "out of the box" options like Ond's Metropolis. In the end I really didn't see anything avalible for side profile designs i loved, and also found it to be one of those things that everyone made up themselves, with some getting beached on. If you talk a look at the 3rd post in this thread, i had a profile and layout that i wanted to adhere to, but i wanted to make it my own.
Soon after realizing a vast majority of the overall design was building off of the best parts of other cabinets i'd researched, i decided to make the plans free for anyone who wanted to use them. After consulting with HaRuMaN, i commissioned him to take my rough plans into CAD for use on a CnC. He thankfully added a few additions to the side profiles like rounded corners, and a 4º tilt to the control panel mounting surface. Then we did a little back and forth on the button layout to go on Jarrett's CP top design.
In the end this project rests on the shoulders of those who are noted in the first post. All of them. I added a few little things of my own over time, and in the end this is what i was left with. A couple notable things i would have done differently are the back panel design, (which i learned could have been MUCH more simple from the actual cabinets i would go on to restore), as well as the display glass where i should in retrospect have used tinted plexi.
Found this thread.. your work is top notch, I have built simpe bartops and I think I'm ready for the next level. I downloaded your side panels, but can you share the plans for CP and all the other panels, and more importantly plans that show the framing that shows locations on the side panels?
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 28, 2017, 04:32:05 pm
As stated before, the control panel design is not mine to give out (the button layout is my own to some degree, but thats not enough for me to provide it outright as mine). As for the rest of the panels there never was any plans made to build them as I just did them on the fly. To me that keeps this machine original. My goal here was in some way to inspire offshoots of my build much like it is inspired from so many other designs on the forum. There are over a dozen other builds using my side panels that have taken their own approach to "filling in the gaps" and they have all turned out amazing!
Post by: dgrace on November 27, 2017, 03:08:30 pm
Your project has been very helpful to me while doing my own. I'm trying to finalize how I want to do the backside of my arcade (whether to cover everywhere, or keep some spaces open for extra ventilation) and I noticed that you didn't have fans for the PC area or the TV/monitor area; just for the area where the speakers would go and the keyboard tray area (at least based on your pics). Is there a reason you wouldn't do one (a fan or two) for the PC area and the TV area, given how they would generate the most heat? For example I have a PC with a built in fan, but I worry if I close off that whole bottom section from the back, my PC will still overheat without an extra fan blowing in there. Thoughts?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152274.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152274.0.html)
Thanks Man.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 27, 2017, 06:52:17 pm
So I chose to go with a passive cooling option. The LCD and Mac Mini im using give off almost no heat when i run them for a day straight. And the air space they occupy is also the same. In fact all 4 vents on the back of the cabinet provide airflow to that area. If you look on the back the lower vents are in line with the area under the control panel where the Mac Mini lives. And air flows up past the LCD towards where the sprakers live and vents out the top naturally. There was no need for a loud and obnoxious fan in the build. I guess if you were worried you could add intake and outtake fans on those grills.
Also, just to be clear, the lower section of the cabinet where the coin door resides does not have anything that really needs cooling either. The power supply down there barely heats up and the only thing else that lives there are the subwoofer, a USB hub, and the power brick for the Mac. Probably the only thing down there that generates any kind of heat are the LEDs in the coin door. Haha.
Post by: dgrace on December 11, 2017, 06:55:09 pm
Next i tackled mounting the CP. I'm pretty proud of this part of the design. Simple, basic and it also doubles as a rail to hold the display glass. I wasn't planning on drilling through the side panels, but for something that needed to be as sturdy as the CP mount i made an exception. Six 3" deck screws later...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/14240026879_cfe1bc85b0_c.jpg)
Here's a closeup of the rabbit i put on the edge to hold the display glass. I made sure it was a couple millimetres lower then the side panel CP outcroppings. this way i can have a snug fit with the CP and the side panels in case theres any warping in the wood, now or down the road.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5112/14240078559_d72e69c275_c.jpg)
Hey Chance, a couple questions.
1. What is the height of your marquee? I'm trying to decide if I want to raise the cleats in the marquee area and make the top part flush in order to give me some more height or just leave it with a little space on top (which I think looks better). What is the standard marquee hight? 6" and if so, does include the parts covered by the L-bracket?
2. When it comes to the rabbit you put on the edge to hold the display glass, is that only because you used display glass instead of the plexi? For example, I may end up using dark grey plexi 1/4" for my display. If so, do you think I would still need the rabbit as a placer for the plexi? I'm guessing that's better than drilling in the plexi? Is that typically how the plexi or display glass is placed? Thanks
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 13, 2017, 12:15:17 am
First off, yeah, i'd most definitly go with smoked plexi over glass. a nice sheet of ¼" should do well.
The height of the marquee in its brackets is just a little past 7", I know home depot has a couple sizes of that black metal bracket i used. This was the 1", but ¾" will work just as well and is what i use on some of my restorations like i did with my Robotron (https://flic.kr/s/aHskCC3hHC). the actual marquee plastic is i think 7", but that gap is covered by the brackets. There is no standard size for a marquee. I've got some pretty odd sizes in my collection, and theres even more out there. I just made it that tall because anything larger looked silly in my 3D sketches. I did consider to switch the bracket to ¾" after i had bought that 1" by accident. but i didn't mind the way it looked.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/38306163814_143db1152a_b.jpg)
I think its typical to have something that holds the display surface in place. Most actual arcade cabinets have some sor of edge or groove holding it in place. I'd still go with the rabbet. In fact here (https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/5-ways-to-make-precision-rabbet-cuts) is a good resource for making rabbets. The one thing i would have added is a cutout so that i could easily remove the glass/plexi. I've shown that in the picture below as a red marking. I've needed to remove the glass a couple times and this would have just made it a TON more easy. as it stands right now i have a couple small strips of thin black ribbon under the glass so i can lift it up, which isn't ideal.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4689/39022706041_202cc0b483_b.jpg)
Post by: jennifer on December 13, 2017, 12:36:02 am
Hey!Ok Jennifer will bite on this....Why would you most definitely go with smoked plexy over glass?
First off, yeah, i'd most definitly go with smoked plexi over glass. a nice sheet of ¼" should do well.
The height of the marquee in its brackets is just a little past 7", I know home depot has a couple sizes of that black metal bracket i used. This was the 1", but ¾" will work just as well and is what i use on some of my restorations like i did with my Robotron (https://flic.kr/s/aHskCC3hHC). the actual marquee plastic is i think 7", but that gap is covered by the brackets. There is no standard size for a marquee. I've got some pretty odd sizes in my collection, and theres even more out there. I just made it that tall because anything larger looked silly in my 3D sketches. I did consider to switch the bracket to ¾" after i had bought that 1" by accident. but i didn't mind the way it looked.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/38306163814_143db1152a_b.jpg)
I think its typical to have something that holds the display surface in place. Most actual arcade cabinets have some sor of edge or groove holding it in place. I'd still go with the rabbet. In fact here (https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/5-ways-to-make-precision-rabbet-cuts) is a good resource for making rabbets. The one thing i would have added is a cutout so that i could easily remove the glass/plexi. I've shown that in the picture below as a red marking. I've needed to remove the glass a couple times and this would have just made it a TON more easy. as it stands right now i have a couple small strips of thin black ribbon under the glass so i can lift it up, which isn't ideal.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4689/39022706041_202cc0b483_b.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 13, 2017, 12:58:48 am
Ok Jennifer will bite on this....Why would you most definitely go with smoked plexy over glass?
...Why do you have to quote the whole post if you're posting right after? haha :)
Plexi over glass is simple, Weight, cost, clarity. Plexi weighs less then glass, costs less then glass, and unless you buy higher end glass you'll avoid blemishes in plexi like you see in glass. Glass was great (kinda) in older arcade cabinets when plexi was expensive, but now, and especially for home use plexi is the clear winner. Even when it comes to older games, unless it was originally glass, i'd rather have plexi as it can be repaired by simply polishing with Novis.
Post by: jennifer on December 13, 2017, 01:15:07 am
I have never seen a piece of plexy worth saving, Especially in smoky abusive, environments, glass IMO would be a far better choice on a machine called overambitious....In other news, I watched your pinball unboxing video.... And OMG, did I laugh, and laugh , and then your buddy was all like scratching his butt out in the warehouse parking lot. So I would laugh again. :laugh2:Ok Jennifer will bite on this....Why would you most definitely go with smoked plexy over glass?
...Why do you have to quote the whole post if you're posting right after? haha :)
Plexi over glass is simple, Weight, cost, clarity. Plexi weighs less then glass, costs less then glass, and unless you buy higher end glass you'll avoid blemishes in plexi like you see in glass. Glass was great (kinda) in older arcade cabinets when plexi was expensive, but now, and especially for home use plexi is the clear winner. Even when it comes to older games, unless it was originally glass, i'd rather have plexi as it can be repaired by simply polishing with Novis.
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 13, 2017, 02:51:42 am
Whats the time stamp of him scratching his ass? If it was Josh i'd like to frame a shot of that and give it to him as a gag xmas gift, hahaha :lol
Post by: jennifer on December 13, 2017, 12:21:34 pm
Post by: bperkins01 on December 15, 2017, 08:52:07 am
The time consumed just putting information in it alone is staggering. (I've done it for other projects and really understand)
On top of that - a great build. Really fantastic in every way. You have great vision.
Very inspirational and great content all around.
I'm in the 'testing' phase myself and should be picking up plywood in the next week or two.
Thanks again - truly exceptional!
Bob
:applaud:
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 15, 2017, 08:54:28 am
If you end up having any questions just post them here and i'll do my best to answer. :)
Good luck with your build!
Post by: gumby510 on December 22, 2017, 12:59:00 am
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Post by: ChanceKJ on December 22, 2017, 01:30:47 am
I’d just run over it with a swifer and stay away from any kind of windex or glass cleaner. Did you get acrylic or polycarbonate? Acrylic is shinier and polycarb is stronger. Acrylic is less expensive but easier to crack. Polycarb is more impact resisant but easier to scratch.
Post by: gumby510 on December 22, 2017, 06:07:10 pm
How hard are you dusting?!It was my fault didn't dust it off like what you said a swifter. And it's just cheap Home Depot plexi
I’d just run over it with a swifer and stay away from any kind of windex or glass cleaner. Did you get acrylic or polycarbonate? Acrylic is shinier and polycarb is stronger. Acrylic is less expensive but easier to crack. Polycarb is more impact resisant but easier to scratch.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Arroyo on January 08, 2018, 02:18:08 am
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Post by: ChanceKJ on January 09, 2018, 11:58:38 pm
Just took a look at your build thread, Very excited to see that cabinet get made. Really like some of your ideas!
Post by: elk29n on February 01, 2018, 02:52:31 pm
You've inspired me to do my own instead of buy!
I'm working on doing a similar CP with a pedestal. Thinking a collapsable pedestal if possible.
Could I PM you to discuss the layout of the CP and get permission for the CAD files?
Thanks again!
elk
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 01, 2018, 06:11:58 pm
I actually don’t own any rights to the CP design (other then i guess the exact layout of the buttons i used haha), but the guy who does has made the high res avalible here...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960)
Post by: yotsuya on February 01, 2018, 06:34:46 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/4f4e85bb6da680df738c7d98ee89599e.jpg)
Post by: AggieRWC on February 10, 2018, 05:29:00 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 11, 2018, 11:08:24 pm
Post by: bad_boo on February 11, 2018, 11:39:59 pm
Post by: PeterS on February 12, 2018, 02:54:44 pm
1) On your CP, why do you have only 4 buttons on players 3 & 4? What type of games are played with 4 players? This will obviously decided on a 2 or 4 player CP.
2) With this unit playing the old style games, can it easily play the current gaming units like PS, Xbox, etc. I've never purchased either but in the event I do I would like it to be compatible.
I live in Edmonton, AB and sometimes travel up to Calgary for soccer tournaments. Any chance we can meet and take a look at your cabinet? Take care
Peter
Post by: yotsuya on February 12, 2018, 06:04:52 pm
Hey Chance, this unit is AMAZING. I'm just starting my research on building my own unit and your resources on the 1st page is a great resource. About 4 years ago I read the book Project Arcade by St. Clair and I recently purchased his most recent version and starting my reading again. It's due to having kids and coaching club soccer 5-6 days a week for the past 3 years that this project has taken a back seat. I REALLY need to start this project as I'm itching to play all the old games I grew up with. I do have a few questions if you don't mind answering:
1) On your CP, why do you have only 4 buttons on players 3 & 4? What type of games are played with 4 players? This will obviously decided on a 2 or 4 player CP.
2) With this unit playing the old style games, can it easily play the current gaming units like PS, Xbox, etc. I've never purchased either but in the event I do I would like it to be compatible.
I live in Edmonton, AB and sometimes travel up to Calgary for soccer tournaments. Any chance we can meet and take a look at your cabinet? Take care
Peter
You shouldn’t of said you were from Edmonton, bro. Chance is a hard-core Flames fan. You blew your chance. :-)
Post by: jdbailey1206 on February 13, 2018, 01:22:11 pm
Hey Chance, this unit is AMAZING. I'm just starting my research on building my own unit and your resources on the 1st page is a great resource. About 4 years ago I read the book Project Arcade by St. Clair and I recently purchased his most recent version and starting my reading again. It's due to having kids and coaching club soccer 5-6 days a week for the past 3 years that this project has taken a back seat. I REALLY need to start this project as I'm itching to play all the old games I grew up with. I do have a few questions if you don't mind answering:
1) On your CP, why do you have only 4 buttons on players 3 & 4? What type of games are played with 4 players? This will obviously decided on a 2 or 4 player CP.
2) With this unit playing the old style games, can it easily play the current gaming units like PS, Xbox, etc. I've never purchased either but in the event I do I would like it to be compatible.
I live in Edmonton, AB and sometimes travel up to Calgary for soccer tournaments. Any chance we can meet and take a look at your cabinet? Take care
Peter
You shouldn’t of said you were from Edmonton, bro. Chance is a hard-core Red Wings fan. You blew your chance. :-)
FTFY
Post by: PeterS on February 13, 2018, 01:59:12 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 14, 2018, 02:24:04 am
To answer your questions:
1. 2 reasons, First, to allow for at least the 4 player games that require 3 and 4 buttons, (like Xmen for example uses 3, etc), Tat and i foolishly built the control panel to take into account some console games (up to and including N64). so these 4 buttons serve as the 4 yellow buttons on an N64 controller. Ideally i should have kept it to 3 buttons and a fewer number of buttons for Players 1 and 2, but i'm kinda happy with what i ended up with. Just a little more then i needed, just in case.
2. As stated before i limited the console games to the N64 and older.mainly because of the limitations of the MacMini i'm using to run the cabinet. That and i figured if there was anything i wanted to play that was newer then the N64, i'd just go play it on the actual console.
Paul's right, As a native Calgarian, I'm obligated to love the Flames. That and we have some family ties to some of the former management on the team. Plus in my old job i used to be the liaison for our company and the team, so i knew and spent time with most of the players from last season.
Post by: yotsuya on February 14, 2018, 12:52:05 pm
My favorite hockey memory growing up was the night the lights went out at the Boston Garden, meaning Boston and the Oilers didn’t get to play. They had to move the game back to Edmonton the next day because the Celtics were in the Eastern Conference Finals, and Boston fans were mad. A reporter was interviewing them on TV and they were pretty much saying F the Celtics. Good times
And I’m a long suffering Arizona Coyotes fan, but that’s OK. We’re still young..
Post by: hackvector on March 19, 2018, 09:47:01 pm
I have access to a CNC router machine and i'd love to make this with the CNC router.
Do you have the rest of the plans?
Post by: AkAdam44 on September 20, 2018, 11:00:52 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 20, 2018, 01:42:26 pm
Trying to download your CAD/PDF files from the first post but the link doesn't seem to work for me. Is there anywhere else I can download from or does anyone else have a copy they can link me to?? Thanks in advance!
I just tried it and it seems to work fine. Keep in mind that the link on the first post simply redirects you to the actual post deeper in the thread that I uploaded the zip file to.
Post by: AkAdam44 on September 20, 2018, 02:23:42 pm
Trying to download your CAD/PDF files from the first post but the link doesn't seem to work for me. Is there anywhere else I can download from or does anyone else have a copy they can link me to?? Thanks in advance!
I just tried it and it seems to work fine. Keep in mind that the link on the first post simply redirects you to the actual post deeper in the thread that I uploaded the zip file to.
Thanks, now I got it. For some reason that link kept bumping me back to the forum's main page. I tried another browser and that took me to the correct post. I'm hoping to begin building my cabinet based on your design really soon! There's so many great ones. There should be a dedicated section on the forum just for all the "Flynn's Arcade Clones" HaHa
Post by: ChanceKJ on September 20, 2018, 06:28:56 pm
I had thought about trying to collect links and make a section of all the clones but i just never got around to it :)
Post by: ehammer85 on October 16, 2018, 06:45:49 pm
***be nice, this is my first build haha***
Post by: AkAdam44 on October 17, 2018, 01:31:12 pm
mimicking your build with a few modifications on things i'm personally wanting. i'm fairly new to the site and didn't start a build post (mostly cause i don't know what i'm doing) but i've gone through this build about 50 dozen times and glad to see it's fairly active. here's my work in progressLooking good! What kind of plywood did you use? And do you have a pic of you control panel? You really should start your own post and add some more interior pics. Would like to see the progress of this build.
***be nice, this is my first build haha***
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 17, 2018, 01:47:08 pm
I really love how you did the gun holsters! :D
Post by: ehammer85 on October 18, 2018, 03:53:15 pm
mimicking your build with a few modifications on things i'm personally wanting. i'm fairly new to the site and didn't start a build post (mostly cause i don't know what i'm doing) but i've gone through this build about 50 dozen times and glad to see it's fairly active. here's my work in progressLooking good! What kind of plywood did you use? And do you have a pic of you control panel? You really should start your own post and add some more interior pics. Would like to see the progress of this build.
***be nice, this is my first build haha***
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
3/4 MDF and i'm still working through my control panel same dimension's as Chance's, different button layout. i'll likely start my own post when i get a chance, fall is a busy time for me
Post by: ehammer85 on October 18, 2018, 03:59:06 pm
Thats awesome!
I really love how you did the gun holsters! :D
thanks for the inspiration! i didn't feel the need for the authenticity of a coin door and the idea just came to me, glad it worked out with my limited wood working experience. now to sell some organs for control panel items
Post by: ChanceKJ on October 18, 2018, 04:07:33 pm
Yeah, definitely remember the moment i tapped the button to process my credit card for my first couple parts orders. Wasn’t cheap, but still no regrets
Post by: jdbailey1206 on October 18, 2018, 04:11:48 pm
Post by: Skoobie on November 06, 2018, 05:32:32 pm
My best friend finally built his 4-bay shop with a loft and wants to put in a game room. He asked me to help him built a 4-player full sized cabinet. After doing a 2-player bartop I figured a 4-player stand up couldn't be TOO much worse. However I'm having a hard time locating CNC files for a complete cabinet. Found several dead links and partial files (i.e. Flynn's side panels) but nothing complete. Chance, do you have (or even want to distribute) 1:1 CNC plans for your build? I'd like to use it as a template. I think we would dumb it down a bit (no coin door, fewer LED buttons, etc) but the over all build looks perfect for what my friend is looking for. If you willing to share the plans please let me know. At any rate it's and amazing build, well done. And thank you for the contributions!
Post by: Malenko on November 07, 2018, 01:59:05 pm
Well this build is boarding on legendary at this point.
No, its still a great execution of a bad design; far from legendary. Every time the thread finally fall off the first page (which is tough because the traffic on this site has slowed to a crawl) someone comes along and makes a post that should have been a PM to him or asks for something already answered in the thread.
Post by: opt2not on November 07, 2018, 02:18:52 pm
Yup. It was executed well, but there are some key flaws in the ergonomic design, especially around the Control Panel. It's been discussed in many other threads here.Well this build is boarding on legendary at this point.
No, its still a great execution of a bad design; far from legendary. Every time the thread finally fall off the first page (which is tough because the traffic on this site has slowed to a crawl) someone comes along and makes a post that should have been a PM to him or asks for something already answered in the thread.
@Skoobie, do yourself a favour and read more of the other 4-player cabinet projects posted here that didn't follow this design. You'll see a lot of projects that have done a 4-player set-up correctly, and it'll give you a better understanding of how to balance the aesthetics and ergonomics of your project, 2 of the main things that must be balanced in creating a viable arcade cabinet.
Post by: ChanceKJ on November 07, 2018, 02:42:55 pm
Well this build is boarding on legendary at this point. :lol: I discovered it as a Reddit reference. I've got a 2-player bartop running Hyperspin that took some time but was well worth it in the end. Helps I work for a large-format print with CNC capabilities ;D
My best friend finally built his 4-bay shop with a loft and wants to put in a game room. He asked me to help him built a 4-player full sized cabinet. After doing a 2-player bartop I figured a 4-player stand up couldn't be TOO much worse. However I'm having a hard time locating CNC files for a complete cabinet. Found several dead links and partial files (i.e. Flynn's side panels) but nothing complete. Chance, do you have (or even want to distribute) 1:1 CNC plans for your build? I'd like to use it as a template. I think we would dumb it down a bit (no coin door, fewer LED buttons, etc) but the over all build looks perfect for what my friend is looking for. If you willing to share the plans please let me know. At any rate it's and amazing build, well done. And thank you for the contributions!
Hey! Thanks for the kind words :)
Actually no, I dont have full CnC plans for this build. Only the side panels and CP top were made using the CnC. The rest i buit as i went. In part i released only the side panels to both encourage people to “forge their own way” with a solid head start, and to help diversify the design end results, (as many “clones” of my design have done, which i love). At the end of the day, you pick ypur cabinet width based on your display and control panel, then you chose what panels you want to shape the cabinet. No coin door? Great, cut a large rectangle for the kick plate. Have an idea for a WMS style full size speaker grill? Awesome, put as many holes as you want for as many speakers you want up there! Vertical 27” LCD? ...you get the picture.
Unless im out of the country for a prolonged period of time with no cell access, i’ll always try to reply to this thread as quickly as i can. Just so happens i’m just heading to my car after an 8 hour international flight so i missed the notification of your post. :)
Post by: AggieRWC on December 11, 2018, 08:43:31 pm
How did you determine the placements and legnths of all the ledger boards? Do you have a diagram and/or measurements for where to put them?
1) What size boards did you use for your ledger boards?
2) What size screws did you use to attach them to the sides?
Post by: ChanceKJ on December 12, 2018, 03:23:33 am
2. No measurements exist. I didn’t document the location of each. I just made sure both sides were the same. Just took a lot of preplanning. Honestly, the location of each isn’t important. Just look at all the clones that exist. This is where you’d make it your own. Its quite easy.
3. Depends. You could get away with 3/4 or 1” ones. Pre drill all your holes so you dont split them.
4. Wood screws. Making sure they were the proper length. Again, all depends on what you choose to work with.
Post by: AggieRWC on January 01, 2019, 09:10:59 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 04, 2019, 12:38:38 am
Post by: Goose1 on January 22, 2019, 02:42:36 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 25, 2019, 02:04:55 am
If you have any questions about my build just leave them here and i’ll try to get to them as soon as i can. Also, that way anyone else reading this can get those answers too! :)
Good luck!
Post by: ehammer85 on January 27, 2019, 02:22:25 am
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,159436.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,159436.0.html)
Post by: ChanceKJ on January 27, 2019, 12:05:16 pm
Post by: yotsuya on January 28, 2019, 07:59:38 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190129/9fabdeb0995b999adb80af3369b7e842.jpg)
Post by: AggieRWC on January 28, 2019, 09:53:17 pm
Post by: barrymossel on January 29, 2019, 08:33:42 am
About how high would you say the top of the front of your control panel is above the ground? I'm starting to put mine together based off of your build and mine feels a little high, but it may be all in my head.I guess that would be personal preference. If you feel it's too high and uncomfortable to play (for some hours in a row), it's too high. :dunno
Post by: AggieRWC on January 29, 2019, 09:00:50 am
About how high would you say the top of the front of your control panel is above the ground? I'm starting to put mine together based off of your build and mine feels a little high, but it may be all in my head.I guess that would be personal preference. If you feel it's too high and uncomfortable to play (for some hours in a row), it's too high. :dunno
I think I chose my words wrong. It doesn't necessarily feel uncomfortable, but just looks high. I was just curious the height of what most of them would be.
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 01, 2019, 10:41:23 pm
About how high would you say the top of the front of your control panel is above the ground? I'm starting to put mine together based off of your build and mine feels a little high, but it may be all in my head.
Floor to top surface of the front of the control panel is 41.75 inches. I'm 6 foot tall, fits me perfectly.
Glad to see you getting some pub, Chance!!!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190129/9fabdeb0995b999adb80af3369b7e842.jpg)
Thats my buddy Matt, he owns Short Circuit. Huge collector in Alberta. We're going to be doing an episode on his collection as soon as Josh and I can find the time to go visit.
Just for clarification, he didn't convert his garage, he purpose built that entire building on his property for an Arcade and storage for his classic car collection. I watched him over the last year and a bit build it.
Fun fact, the ONLY arcade cabinet I've ever sold from my collection was my Centipede. and Matt bought it for Short Circuit. :)
Post by: smitty1141 on February 14, 2019, 10:13:28 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on February 15, 2019, 07:26:05 am
First off amazing build. One question though on your cp I saw you posted rough dimensions of the base thank you of that but was curious how much of a hangover you have for the top and if the hangover is on all sides or just front and sides.
Thanks!
Just the front and sides. And it varies in order for the internals (like the buttons) to make clearance. The back is basically flush though.
Post by: grizzhcky on March 12, 2019, 01:27:13 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 14, 2019, 04:46:27 am
Post by: grizzhcky on March 24, 2019, 01:04:25 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 24, 2019, 01:24:56 pm
If anything it’s actually a personal choice, as in the actual arcade world the vast majority of games i find from factory used quick disconnects to attach controls, and a fair number of conversions i’ve torn apart for restoration used solder.
Either way works i guess, just upto your preference.
Post by: grizzhcky on March 24, 2019, 04:13:58 pm
Post by: yotsuya on March 24, 2019, 08:48:56 pm
makes sense- as far as time/cost what do you feel that it added to your project overall if you don't mind me asking?
Do it - you won’t regret doing it, but chances are (ha) you will if you don’t.
Post by: Nephasth on March 24, 2019, 09:08:37 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on March 24, 2019, 09:49:40 pm
Post by: Malenko on March 24, 2019, 10:24:56 pm
Post by: gingecko on April 10, 2019, 03:00:10 pm
The last time I built a cab was over 10 years ago and the notes in this thread helped me quite a bit in catching up. Granted things have continued to change, but this was a good starting place, especially with all the pictures and notes you took, suggestions along the way, etc. I don't think I'll be making the same shaped cabinet, but will probably borrow a number of ideas.
Your build notes are pretty easy to understand. The volume control is one piece I'm still wondering about though. It looks like you had one idea originally and then opted to use a PowerMate? Do you use that in combination with the iPacs to control volume? It's one of the things I'm not quite clear on, and I'm not much of an electrician so rewiring a speaker volume know might be a bit tricky.
How stable is your cab overall? I noticed after putting wheels on my original one, that the cab would rock side to side a bit, when people got crazy on the machine. I'm considering using two front leveling legs and the two wheels in back like you did.
It looks like you're more into the restoration scene these days. With all your restored cabs, how does the Flynn arcade stand up? Do you and your friends spend as much time playing it or do people tend to gravitate to the original machines? If Flynn still gets decent usage, what games are people playing on there that they couldn't play on the dedicated machines?
Post by: grizzhcky on April 11, 2019, 09:38:34 pm
Thanks again!
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 13, 2019, 05:56:00 pm
Whew, finally finished reading through this mammoth thread. Kudos on having completed your vision! There were so many interesting ideas used in your build. Your attention to detail really shows in the finished product too.
Thanks!
The volume control is one piece I'm still wondering about though. It looks like you had one idea originally and then opted to use a PowerMate?
Yep, I rewired it so I could disassemble it and just get the parts I needed. It plugs into USB and controls the volume. I can't remember what build I borrowed that idea from, but it was better than trying to rewire the speaker pot. More functionality.
How stable is your cab overall?
Very. I have a pair of levellers up front and the wheels at the back. In retrospect, a set of 4 levellers would have done fine. Some actual arcade companies like Atari and Nintendo had wheels on the backs of their cabs, but they didn't touch the ground the. it was just sitting. Regardless, my setup works well.
It looks like you're more into the restoration scene these days. With all your restored cabs, how does the Flynn arcade stand up?
Yes, quite heavily into restorations now. It fares well, It's manly a resource tool now to test games I've never played but look cool when I hear about them. It's lead to a few games in my current collection being added. Definitely nice to have a MAME cab to play test a game before deciding if it will take up space in the Arcade.
Do you and your friends spend as much time playing it or do people tend to gravitate to the original machines?
Original Machines for sure. One thing I learned about this hobby as I became an operator of a few games down at a local Pinball Bar is that if you give people choice they either get confused and walk away or take to long to make a choice, which actually impacts revenue. The same can kinda be said for a MAME cab with 70,000+ games. People still play it, and getting 4 players on it at once is not a problem at all despite what some people will say about the design of the control panel or assumptions of usage. However, I do have 3 rows of dedicated games surrounding it, and not everyone has the room or abilities to do such a thing. When I built this originally, I was living in a small, cramped apartment (you can see it in some of the pictures when I'm assembling the cab after paint). After that my living situation changed, a couple times actually. I'm also now with a partner who supports and encourages my hobbies, and she actually plays a ton of the games too. ...and she's hotter! haha. The moral of this is that the needs for a MAME cab changed from my only source, to a library of games I can reference.
If Flynn still gets decent usage, what games are people playing on there that they couldn't play on the dedicated machines?
Usually 4-Player games I haven't gotten my hands on yet. Konami titles that my friends remember from our youth. TMNT, Turtles in Time, also NBA Jam, just to name a few. But that's kinda subjective to the games my friends remember them selves and their tastes. Like, I'd never own a PacMan, I just have no desire to take up floor space. However they can play a dozen variants of it on this. It's funny, I'm very picky with the games I add to my collection. Since I started in this hobby, I've only ever sold one game, Centipede. And that's because I really didn't like it. It was something I bought because people kept asking "Do you have a Centipede?!" Then when it was here it barely got played. It was weird. So now I just go after games that I think are cool or that I know Vanessa will enjoy. And again, using FLYNNs to help pick those out is quite helpful. The console titles get played about 40% of the time, but the number slowly drops as more find the way to the Switch, and Classic throwback consoles come into the house. They're best played on the 13 foot screen in the living room :D
Thanks for the questions!
Ok Chance- I am underway in my build! I just received my Ultimarc U-Trac trackball and had a question about your install. If I am correct, it doesn't look like you ended up using the trim ring over the top, correct? If so, are you still happy with that decision or would you have used the trim ring in hindsight?
Thanks again!
Awesome! Happy for sure. I'm not going to say its the way to go. but its more traditional to what you'd see on actual arcades. Plus I think it just looks cleaner.
Post by: gingecko on April 16, 2019, 04:54:41 pm
Thanks for the questions!
Sure thing, thanks for the answers! Your candidness about arcades and all that, is pretty awesome and probably why you keep getting questions from so many people. Double edged sword, haha!
You found a new partner since Flynn? My first wife and I divorced shortly after I finished my arcade machine. Little to do with that, but funny that it coincided. My new Wife (and now kids), don't totally understand this new project, but I have a feeling once they see it completed and what it can do, they will be impressed. My first arcade machine was pretty imperfect, but people who saw it in person were pretty blown away.
Great to hear that Flynn and your dedicated machine play pretty well together. If I had the space, I'd probably opt for more dedicated Mame machines, but for now I got to work with what I have.
Interesting that you got rid of Centipede. I think that it depends on what you grew up on. I'd probably never want a Pong (even though I'm old enough to have played it), but Robotron 2049, Defender, Ms Pac Man, and Centipede would likely be on my buy lists if I had the space for those Arcade machines. Even though there are games with much better graphics out there, something about the gameplay in those games really draws me in.
Okay, one more question from me. Arcade machines are pretty big projects involving a lot of different skill sets, software, electronics, wood working, design, etc. Which parts came easiest to you and which were more difficult?
Thanks again!
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 16, 2019, 06:16:23 pm
Okay, one more question from me. Arcade machines are pretty big projects involving a lot of different skill sets, software, electronics, wood working, design, etc. Which parts came easiest to you and which were more difficult?
No worries! :D
For me I had a background in Technical Theatre studies when I started (set construction, lighting, sound, etc). So when I went to start work on the project I had already been comfortable with the wood working aspect to a degree. Wasn't afraid of the Saws, etc. I've always had a mind to try and figure things out, solve design issues, and make things better. If anything this project was a jump off point that taught me more about the skill sets needed to complete it. I'm still ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- at the software side of things, and I think that pushed me toward wanting to work more with dedicated Arcade PCB's on future projects.
Actually, it's kinda funny because I credit starting this project with a lot of things. If I hadn't started this build I would have never gotten to where I am now with Youtube content creation (The Canadian Arcade), the pinball tech for the big pinball bar downtown Calgary, a game operator, and funny enough a co-star on a reality TV show on Animal Planet. I can trace all these things directly back to October 14, 2013, 09:57:18 pm when I officially started this project.
Post by: gingecko on April 16, 2019, 09:50:53 pm
I haven't had a lot of experience with carpentry or electrical (both of which will really show once I complete my cab!). I'm an amateur artist, which helps a bit. I've done programming quite a bit, but even that doesn't necessarily help a lot with these front ends. Maybe when I delve deeper into them and have to modify things.
Didn't realize you were a Reality TV guy, nice! I still need to watch some of your Canadian Arcade, and will check that out at some point. Good to hear this was just the launch board for many more adventures!
Post by: grizzhcky on April 23, 2019, 02:00:41 am
Post by: ChanceKJ on April 23, 2019, 02:04:35 am
Neph taught me how to properly use the crimp tool for the Microfit3. Other then that just take your time and make sure you are trimming the right amount of wire and using the tool properly. There are a TON of great youtube videos on the subject.
Post by: chadwyk on May 04, 2019, 05:55:17 pm
Here is my thread.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160171.0.html
Just an FYI, your pdf version of the template is still not the correct size. I had to have Staples scale it up to 72” tall. The Adobe Illustrator file is correct though. I saw that someone else notified you of that and you uploaded v2, but it doesn’t look like it changed.
Post by: bynkan on May 12, 2019, 02:48:10 am
Love your work its an amazing arcade, and great photos :) I am a newb that is from Sweden, living in Cambodia. Now my plan is to build an Arcade for the neighborhood children using it to teach them to do good by offering them coins whenever they do good deeds and letting them play on the arcade. I will do a time-based system so that each coin offer a certain play time. Since the area where I live most people are poor and uneducated and this is my way to give some inspiration to the children to do better for them self.
Now my question to you since I am not good at cad/cam or SketchUp. My part is the tech and connecting all together, I would like to ask you a major favor, would it be possible for you to send over all the woodworking cad files, sketch files and also the lineout on the graphics, I will manage do the graphic design my self, I think to have the cad/SketchUp and lineout in scale 1:1 would help a lot. I will most likely do some changes but not much on the files, but the graphics will be a big change, I will try to incorporate things to inspire the children even more.
Thank you for reading... :) hoping for the help...
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 14, 2019, 02:15:48 am
That sounds awesome!
Other then whats provided on the very first post of this thread, there are no plans. The side panels were given as an open source “starting point” for people to take the design and use it as a jumping off point to create (or duplicate) what i built. I didn't record or make plans/CAD for any other part of the cab. This also allows people to design the interior of the cabinet as they see fit, and to the spec they require for the parts they chose locally.
Pretty much all the remaining parts of the cabinet are just squares and rectangles anyways, easy to rip on the table saw.
Good luck! Make sure you start a build thread here on the forums and then leave a link in n this thread so we can watch your progress!
Post by: Mike A on May 14, 2019, 05:25:31 am
Post by: Mike A on May 14, 2019, 05:35:41 am
Post by: grizzhcky on May 18, 2019, 09:10:00 pm
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160304.0.html
Post by: ChanceKJ on May 19, 2019, 04:11:02 am
Well here it is... I've finally started. Thanks Chance for all of the inspiration and design. I have started with your side panels and tweaked it a little along the way. Added a spinner, changed the way the marquee mounts, and like you have said many times, just came up with things along the way. Here is a link to my build
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160304.0.html
Awesome!
I really should add a section to this thread linking all of the clone cabs. I'm excited to see how this turns out!
Post by: dgrace on June 26, 2019, 03:40:16 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on June 26, 2019, 09:05:15 pm
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40233&cat=3,41241
Honestly for the CP, a standard piano hinge from the hardware store would work just as good or better.
Post by: dgrace on June 27, 2019, 01:11:45 pm
Not exactly sure what euro style ones i used for the door, but these are the ones for the control panel.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40233&cat=3,41241
Honestly for the CP, a standard piano hinge from the hardware store would work just as good or better.
Thanks
Post by: Dallinj on July 02, 2019, 01:03:31 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 02, 2019, 01:08:43 pm
I THINK these were the exact ones i used...
http://shop.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=3290
https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/16801.htm
Post by: ehammer85 on July 02, 2019, 01:33:04 pm
Where did you get your crimper for the molex pins? I'm having issues with the one I ordered where the little tabs that lock into place inside of the enclosure are crushed when crimped. I'm just assuming it's an issue with the crimper tool and not a technique error, but it's driving me crazy either way :banghead:
this is what i ended having to order: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE4FAMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 02, 2019, 01:51:19 pm
Post by: ehammer85 on July 02, 2019, 02:13:48 pm
I know everyone swears by ratcheting crimp tools, but personality I can’t stand them. Haha maybe thats just me :)
everything about my build has been a new learning experience. no real woodworking background...no electrical background....i work in IT, so i know about cable management :dunno
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 02, 2019, 08:12:14 pm
Post by: HaRuMaN on July 03, 2019, 10:29:51 pm
I know everyone swears by ratcheting crimp tools, but personality I can’t stand them. Haha maybe thats just me :)
It's just you
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 03, 2019, 10:49:11 pm
I know everyone swears by ratcheting crimp tools, but personality I can’t stand them. Haha maybe thats just me :)
It's just you
:) Figured as much.
Post by: dgrace on July 08, 2019, 12:45:04 am
I'm still struggling to figure out which specific cabinet hinges you used for your keyboard/storage area. I went to both Lowe's and Home Depot and no one could help me pin point it. I know Flynn said he couldn't remember which hinges he used, but does anyone else happen to know which specific hinges I need for that area? Would be greatly appreciated. It's literally my last goal with the woodworking part of the project before I move on to paining/graphics/electrical/etc. I attached a photo from Flynn's project to remind people of what i'm referring to. Thanks
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 08, 2019, 12:57:14 am
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=55420&cat=3,41241
Post by: dgrace on July 08, 2019, 12:44:42 pm
These are what you are looking for. Just pick the type you need depending on the way you want the door to come out.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=55420&cat=3,41241
Thanks Chance. I'm trying to mirror exactly what you did with kind of the hidden access door concept with the push in to come out mechanism. Just like your pic below. What hinges would you recommend for that? Sorry, the site you sent me has so many options and i'm just trying to make sure I get the right ones. Thanks for your help.
(https://i.imgur.com/s2MU0lx.jpg)
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 08, 2019, 01:03:35 pm
Each one of those options has a diagram when you click on it showing you the range of motion. You’ll need to know this before you install them.
It may look confusing and daunting but some times thats part of the process. Take a moment and look at each option and decide from the diagrams which one will suit your exact needs.
Post by: ChanceKJ on July 08, 2019, 01:06:16 pm
https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/utrusta-push-opener-80230224/
Doesn’t have to be the ikea brand. Can be anything similar.
Post by: dgrace on July 08, 2019, 01:31:25 pm
Update: I went to a local advanced hardware store and they were able to help me find the correct hinges. That was a bit of a pain but it looks like we got it figured out. Thanks again.
Post by: Dallinj on August 10, 2019, 01:32:50 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on August 11, 2019, 02:47:25 am
Post by: Dallinj on August 12, 2019, 06:39:23 pm
Post by: ChanceKJ on August 12, 2019, 10:13:39 pm
https://flic.kr/p/novYh9
https://flic.kr/p/hoorpM
Post by: Dallinj on August 12, 2019, 11:24:47 pm
Post by: Pleblo on September 16, 2019, 07:59:34 am
Thank you.
Jim
Post by: Borkis on February 22, 2020, 11:55:32 am