Restore of a nice Donkey Kong - COMPLETE

[griffindodd]

Project Complete.















Picked up a really nice DK from fellow KLOV member Kalan714 (Thanks Kalan).






Work to be done.

Light Chipping and wood repair
New blue vinyl - Ordered - This Old Game
New side art - Ordered - Quarter Arcade
New CP Instruction stickers - Ordered - This Old Game
New CP and Bezel retainer vinyl - Ordered - This Old Game
Coin Door clean up and paint
Black wood paint
New T-Molding (Nintendo Tru-Flat) - Ordered
Troubleshoot dead monitor

[griffindodd]

Bondo time!!!

[Gamester]

Man, you and Le Chuck are just project machines... 

Is this a repair and resell job or a keeper?

[griffindodd]

Is this a repair and resell job or a keeper?

This is a keeper, I just love the shape and styling of the Nintendo cabs, and everyone needs a DK. Yeah I hit the wife wall last night with the project/cabinet count so I guess this is it for a little while until I move out the barrel at least. 

[griffindodd]

A little work on the marquee holders this morning before work.

Faded and rusty, in need of some sanding and wire wool


I love the finish of this rustoleum textured black


Both done looking like new.

[dandro]

This is a keeper, I just love the shape and styling of the Nintendo cabs, and everyone needs a DK. Yeah I hit the wife wall last night with the project/cabinet count so I guess this is it for a little while until I move out the barrel at least. 

or it will be your turn in the barrel eh? lol

[griffindodd]

Pulled off the coin slots. The mechs inside look like new, but the slots themselves need some love here.

[griffindodd]

I powered up the cab to see what the situation was, nothing much happened...

Symptoms.

On power-on there is no screen activity on the monitor, Marquee light doesn't come on either, although that could be a  dead bulb. The speaker makes a looping sound that sounds kinda like the flying saucer sound from Space Invaders or Asteroids.

Have they invaded my cab and killed Kong???

Seriously though, this is all I have observed so far. Any guesses?

[griffindodd]

or it will be your turn in the barrel eh? lol

Yeah exactly. Seriously she's pretty good about my hobby so no complaints, just gotta know when to reel it in a bit.

[Nephasth]

I powered up the cab to see what the situation was, nothing much happened...

Symptoms.

On power-on there is no screen activity on the monitor, Marquee light doesn't come on either, although that could be a  dead bulb. The speaker makes a looping sound that sounds kinda like the flying saucer sound from Space Invaders or Asteroids.

Have they invaded my cab and killed Kong???

Seriously though, this is all I have observed so far. Any guesses?

Probably just a fuse.

[griffindodd]

Probably just a fuse.

That would be pretty awesome if that was the case, I'll have to pop open the cab this weekend and have a proper look around, I haven't really had a good poke around in there yet

[Nephasth]

/joke

[griffindodd]

 

[yotsuya]

I'd tell you it's just a Big Blue, but I'm afraid you'd buy one only to see that Nintendo's don't use them. 

Do you get the sound of the monitor powering up? That static sound?

[Maximus]

I don't think so, I've yet to stick my head in there and listen, couldn't hear anything from outside the cab.

[yotsuya]

Uhhh.... someone playing with the name again? LeChic?

[Maximus]

Nope it's me, changing to my RL nick, unfortunately they can't change my old account username so I have to start a new one, will be a bit messy for a while.

[yotsuya]

Are we still allowed to call you 'Griff'? Habit. 

[Maximus]

Lol you can call me Daddy if you like

[Nephasth]

Nope it's me, changing to my RL nick, unfortunately they can't change my old account username so I have to start a new one, will be a bit messy for a while.

The previous title to your pin project, "Identity Crisis", is making a lot more sense now...

[Maximus]

The previous title to your pin project, "Identity Crisis", is making a lot more sense now...

Aye it must have been a subliminal urge coming up from my nether regions.

[Maximus]

Before and after for the coin slots

[Maximus]

Another piece finished

[jennifer]

     Nice find,  ( Daddy ?)... I see you hauled that home in the queens mini van, Is it no wonder your in the dog house with the wife. * Jennifer giggles and laughfs. I am not a member of the Kllov, The BYOAC is my home, But curious, Is pinball Jim over there?... I love that hammered finish on those retainers... Is the base of that cab all busted up like mine? Jennifers DK tips off to one side.... So embarrassing. 

[Maximus]

Ha ha no that's not the queens minivan that's daddies SUV. No the base of the cab is in great shape although you can see how they get busted up, people try and move the cab without tipping it back fully on to the wheels and it basically rips the wood off the bottom

[Maximus]

Really looks great inside

[Maximus]

Well looky looky what we have here


Found a dead fuse on the monitor board, swapped it out and we have some life

[Malenko]

since you're redoing the sides, are you going to countersink the bolts?

[Maximus]

Looks like the sound is controlled at the monitor board which explains the whining noise too, maybe a recap will fix it all.

[Maximus]

since you're redoing the sides, are you going to countersink the bolts?

Yeah I need to do some with those fugly things

[jennifer]

    Jennifer squeals.... hands in the air and Dance, Dance,Dance, That thing is AWSOME.

[Maximus]

First pass at the wood repair

[Le Chuck]

since you're redoing the sides, are you going to countersink the bolts?

Yeah I need to do some with those fugly things

Meh, they really don't bother me that much.  I've even see CPs with bolt heads done in a tasteful way, almost like a design element (Nephasth) but if they don't serve a pupose by being exposed (ie easily removable for tear down or component replacement) then I guess hiding them makes sense. 

[Maximus]

Funny thing is the bottom three aren't even used only the two at the top rear

[Nephasth]

Found a dead fuse on the monitor board, swapped it out and we have some life

 

since you're redoing the sides, are you going to countersink the bolts?

Yeah I need to do some with those fugly things

Meh, they really don't bother me that much.  I've even see CPs with bolt heads done in a tasteful way, almost like a design element (Nephasth) but if they don't serve a pupose by being exposed (ie easily removable for tear down or component replacement) then I guess hiding them makes sense. 

  Le Chuck

Wonder why those 3 were ever added...

[Maximus]

For horizontal monitor position

[Maximus]

Fixed the weird noise, the volume pot was cranked to max so it was line noise, sound was crazy loud, turned it down to normal problem solved

Played the game for about 5-10 mins and then it starts crashing. Smells hot inside the cab so I'm assuming the PSU is failing. Is it worth trying to refurb these or am I better off going to a switching supply?

[Maximus]

Tested the pin outs on the PSU and they were all solid and spot on.

Then I blew it up.

Forgot it was turned on and tried plugging in the video board plug. Smokey smokey smokey. Hope I haven't friend the video board. I'm such a dumbass sometimes .


here is the piece in the PSU I so efficiently nuked. No idea what it is, no markings on it.

Greeeaaaat

[Nephasth]

It's a resistor (R1). The value of it depends on what power supply board you have. According to the schematics, if you have a PP-7A board that resistor is 5w22; if you have a PP-7B board that resistor is 2w20.

No more plugging and unplugging with the power on!

[Maximus]

Thanks Neph. Fingers crossed

[Maximus]

Bahhhhh. Replaced it and as soon as I powered up it fried again, something else is bad

[Maximus]

Something has shorted, any suggestions? Neph do you have a link to the pp7b schematic

[SlammedNiss]

Tested the pin outs on the PSU and they were all solid and spot on.

Then I blew it up.

Forgot it was turned on and tried plugging in the video board plug. Smokey smokey smokey. Hope I haven't friend the video board. I'm such a dumbass sometimes .

here is the piece in the PSU I so efficiently nuked. No idea what it is, no markings on it.

Greeeaaaat

I bet that smelled nice. BTW, you use the same paint on the coin door that you did on the marquee pieces?

[Nephasth]

Pm sent. You sure that's a B board? The schematic shows the B board has an earth ground connection with the AC in. The A board schematic doesn't show an earth ground connection, like what your board looks like.

[Maximus]

There's a sticker on the housing that says its a b I'm just going by that

[Nephasth]

Unplug everything from the psu, except power in, and power it up. By process of elimination (plugging one harness into the board at a time, while turning power off between) you should be able to narrow down what component has the short.

[Maximus]

Will do gotta get some more resisters 1st.

Back to what I do know, building.


Horrible spidered corrosion under the old paint on the coin door


Nuked most of it with half an hour of drill brushing and wire wool.


The same textured paint I used on the marquee retainers. May need a second coat we will see how it dries

[Maximus]

The CP is in good shape. all original parts buttons sticks etc. Apparently the copyright reading only Nintendo is pretty rare so that's cool.


The instruction card didn't pass the test of time so well. I have new CP vinyl, instruction card, bezel retainer sticker and coin stickers coming from Rikitiki to spruce this up a bit

[Maximus]

Nice condition underneath. I wonder what game the extra wires are for in the harness

[Maximus]

The coin door is flattening out nice now

[Maximus]

Yep happy with this

[CoryBee]

Rather impressive griff......

That finish!

[Gamester]

Looking good there Griff, err Daddy, err Maximus...

For the coin slots, is that just silver paint that you refinished them with?

[Maximus]

Yeah its high heat enamel I had lying around

[dandro]

Yeah this is good stuff right here... I really love that finish. I am coming to terms that my cab will def. need a coin door, and it is certainly cheaper to buy a used one in restoration condition.. This confirms it for me, that it can look brilliant!

[Maximus]

For $50 X-Arcade do a brand new metal coin door complete with mech and illuminated coin slot if you want plug n play. I used one on revolution

[dandro]

ahh ok, cool beans, you speak of this one?

http://www.xgaming.com/store/arcade-parts-and-accessories/product/arcade-machine-coin-door-led-coin-mech/

[404]

Something has shorted, any suggestions? Neph do you have a link to the pp7b schematic

Never worked on an arcade board before but judging by the pics, i would check those diodes and the voltage regulator in that immediate area first. You can test the regulator by finding out its voltage using the serial on the unit. then pumping a bit of voltage into it and testing its output.

[Maximus]

ahh ok, cool beans, you speak of this one?

http://www.xgaming.com/store/arcade-parts-and-accessories/product/arcade-machine-coin-door-led-coin-mech/

Yep that's it, only $39 now even better

[Maximus]

You can test the regulator by finding out its voltage using the serial on the unit. then pumping a bit of voltage into it and testing its output.

Thanks I'll try that

[Maximus]

I guess if the voltage regulator is shorted than that's going to start frying things like a George Foreman grill. I'm trying to read the schematic that Neph pointed me toward, I think I missed out on squiggly line reading class

[Maximus]

I 'think' that voltage regulator is BR1 which should be a S4VB40 from the datasheet I found it has the following specs

Io (A) : 4
Vrm (V) : 400
Ifsm (A) : 80
Vf (max) (V) : 1.05
Ir (max) (uA) : 10

and then some chinese symbol with a value of 9?

Not sure how to read these values though, need some schooling here

[welash]

I 'think' that voltage regulator is BR1 which should be a S4VB40 from the datasheet I found it has the following specs

Io (A) : 4
Vrm (V) : 400
Ifsm (A) : 80
Vf (max) (V) : 1.05
Ir (max) (uA) : 10

and then some chinese symbol with a value of 9?

Not sure how to read these values though, need some schooling here

BR1 isn't a voltage regulator, it is a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier.  It basically converts the 120VAC coming in to 120V DC (so be careful if you are poking around in there). Are you sure you have the correct schematic?  I would have expected to see more transformers on the board.  Or are they connected to the white molex connectors on the edges?  If they are connected to the molex connectors.  Make sure to get the correct one connected to the correct place. 

The only way that I could see that resistor burning is if D2 or D7 were shorted (or reversed) or if TR1 or TR3 were stuck (on).  If it is the latter, there could be a problem with one of the 2 switch-mode power supply controllers (ic1 or ic2). 

The switch mode controllers should be turning tr1 and tr3 on and off to create a smaller AC voltage on the secondary side of t1 and t2, that is further regulated before going out.

[Maximus]

BR1 isn't a voltage regulator, it is a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier.  It basically converts the 120VAC coming in to 120V DC (so be careful if you are poking around in there). Are you sure you have the correct schematic?  I would have expected to see more transformers on the board.  Or are they connected to the white molex connectors on the edges?  If they are connected to the molex connectors.  Make sure to get the correct one connected to the correct place. 

The only way that I could see that resistor burning is if D2 or D7 were shorted (or reversed) or if TR1 or TR3 were stuck (on).  If it is the latter, there could be a problem with one of the 2 switch-mode power supply controllers (ic1 or ic2). 

The switch mode controllers should be turning tr1 and tr3 on and off to create a smaller AC voltage on the secondary side of t1 and t2, that is further regulated before going out.

This is why my tiny brain implodes every time I try and comprehend this stuff. I have no idea how i am even going to start troubleshooting this thing 

The board is right, although like neph mentioned it doesn't have the three wire AC input like the 7B schem suggests, it's more like the 7A schem, even though it does say 7B on the outside of the cage. There's is another board in the cage with transformers that attach to this via the molex connectors, they are all different sizes so you cant mix them up

[yotsuya]

Just throw an LCD and a 60-in-1 in that ---smurfette--- and call it a day! 

[Maximus]

Just throw an LCD and a 60-in-1 in that ---smurfette--- and call it a day! 

i was thinking maybe an xbox with a hacked controller, then I can play Call of Duty on it and watch Netflix, all of life's questions and problems answered.

[Nephasth]

Couple of questions... Have got another (or some more) resistor(s) yet? And if so, have you powered it up without any of the outputs connected? Really quick way to find out if it's an issue with your power supply or something else.

[Maximus]

Couple of questions... Have got anoter (or some more) resistors yet? And if so, have you powered it up without any of the outputs connected? Really quick way to find out if it's an issue with your power supply or something else.

Not yet I will have to grab some on the way home from the office tonight. At least I am learning to read the schems a bit while  sitting here at work (gotta love I.T. when it's quiet).

On that subject, doesn't that schem show the power coming in from the left meaning that power will hit that R1 resister after coming through the BR1 Bridge rectifier? Just trying t make sure I am understanding how these things flow.

[Nephasth]

You gotta follow the basic steps of troubleshooting before you go throwing parts at this. Break it all down into systems, then subsystems, then components. If you do it backwards, you'll likely just end up chasing your tail and throwing money at it hoping to fix the problem by changing parts. Isolating your systems will help you determine which subsystem to look at in order to find the problem component. My thought process of my years spent as a mechanic.

[Maximus]

You gotta follow the basic steps of troubleshooting before you go throwing parts at this. Break it all down into systems, then subsystems, then components. If you do it backwards, you'll likely just end up chasing your tail and throwing money at it hoping to fix the problem by changing parts. Isolating your systems will help you determine which subsystem to look at in order to find the problem component. My thought process of my years spent as a mechanic.

Sounds perfectly logical to me, I'll definitely follow that route, my problem is understanding the systems/sub systems. To my earlier question, isn't the AC coming in from the left and hitting R1 way before it gets to the transformers? Also, looking at the 7A schematics I see what you mean, this board really does look like a 7A not a 7B which is even more frustrating when the labels say otherwise. If it were indeed a 7A and I am putting a 2w20 where a 5w22 should be would it fry?

[Maximus]

oh thanks for the answer, while I typed. Now I'm just more confused though

[Nephasth]

Also, looking at the 7A schematics I see what you mean, this board really does look like a 7A not a 7B which is even more frustrating when the labels say otherwise. If it were indeed a 7A and I am putting a 2w20 where a 5w22 should be would it fry?

Check the output side of the board, might be easier to tell that way. The A board has 1 ground on the output side, the B board has 3.

[Maximus]

Check the output side of the board, might be easier to tell that way. The A board has 1 ground on the output side, the B board has 3.

Unless I am misunderstanding (highly likely) the output and input are on the same board. Iniput comes in at the top of the photo I posted and all the output sockets are on the bottom, the black plugs

[Nephasth]

No, those are CONB, CONC, and COND as labelled on the schematic (connectors). So you would check what plugs into those for the number of grounds (terminals or wires).

EDIT: And seeing as how the B board schematic doesn't even have connectors in the diagram, I'd say you have an A board.

[Maximus]

EDIT: And seeing as how the B board schematic doesn't even have connectors in the diagram, I'd say you have an A board.

Hrmmm interesting, ok so back to me question about the 2w20 vs the 5w22. (Thanks for the patience, you really are dealing with a blank slate on this subject)

[Nephasth]

EDIT: And seeing as how the B board schematic doesn't even have connectors in the diagram, I'd say you have an A board.

Hrmmm interesting, ok so back to me question about the 2w20 vs the 5w22. (Thanks for the patience, you really are dealing with a blank slate on this subject)

Very possible. Definitely need to verify what board you have first. Also check the operator manual for a basic diagram (it shows an A board as well).

[welash]

Sounds perfectly logical to me, I'll definitely follow that route, my problem is understanding the systems/sub systems. To my earlier question, isn't the AC coming in from the left and hitting R1 way before it gets to the transformers? Also, looking at the 7A schematics I see what you mean, this board really does look like a 7A not a 7B which is even more frustrating when the labels say otherwise. If it were indeed a 7A and I am putting a 2w20 where a 5w22 should be would it fry?

It might fry when the power supply is loaded, but I would doubt it if you have nothing hooked up to it.  On the other hand, using a 5watt 22 ohm resistor (or 5 watt 20 ohm resistor) in that spot probably wouldn't hurt anything.  If you don't already have a spare fuse, you may want to get a few of those too, you are pulling some pretty good current at the input to burn that resistor, and probably more if you put in a 5 watt resistor. 

And you are correct, the power is coming in from the left of the schematic.  One thing you might try is to not attach the other board with the transformers, and supply power to the board you have shown.  The resistor shouldn't burn out then.  If it does, there must be a short on this board.

[Maximus]

Here's the PP7A pins, looking for the PP7B, as I understand it they have identical pin-outs though so dont think this info will shed any light



Credit to Ken Layton for this info...

Nintendo “Donkey Kong”
Power supply “PP-7A” & “PP-7B”

10 pin connector to Video
1 Brown –5v
2 Red –5v
3 Orange –5v
4 Yellow –5v
5 Green Ground
6 Blue Ground
7 Purple Ground
8 Gray Ground
9 White +5v
10 Black +5v

9 pin connector to CPU
1 Brown Ground
2 Red Ground
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow +12v
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple +5v
8 Gray –5v
9 White +24v (meter)

7 pin connector to sound
1 Brown +16v
2 Red +16v
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow Ground
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple –5v

AC power input is 100 vac

[welash]

Are the 2 big capacitors C6 and C7 or C7 and C8?  From the schematic, they would be 6 and 7 for a B board and 7 and 8 for an A board. If it is an A board, you may want to check those capacitors to see if either is shorted (look for shorts on the PCB, and see if the capacitor is bulging or anything).

[Maximus]

Are the 2 big capacitors C6 and C7 or C7 and C8?  From the schematic, they would be 6 and 7 for a B board and 7 and 8 for an A board. If it is an A board, you may want to check those capacitors to see if either is shorted (look for shorts on the PCB, and see if the capacitor is bulging or anything).

Thanks I'll check them out when I get back home

[Maximus]

This seems to confirm the mysterious 2-line yet PP-7B AC-Input, mine's exactly the same...

[Maximus]

Caps are at 6 & 7 so its definitely a B

[Maximus]

OK board on its own


Then plugged into transformers

[Nephasth]

Pretty smoke ring!

[Maximus]

Pretty smoke ring!

They cost 50c a shot

[welash]

Are the transformers on a separate board with other parts (transistors, resistors, ics, ...) or are they just transformers with connectors on cables?  If it is another board, do you have a picture?  I'm guessing that they just didn't mark the connectors on the B schematic, and the schematic shows the parts on both the boards. 

Do you have a multimeter or anything to check continuity?

[Maximus]

Yes they are all on another board with ic and other stuffs. Yes I have a decent multimeter but no experience testing circuits

[Maximus]

Here's the other part of the supply

[welash]

Looks like it is kind of packed in there. I think the right side of R1 will go to one side of either C6 or C7, and then go to a pin on one of the connectors.  I think the other side of that capacitor will go to a different pin on one of the connectors.  If you can figure out which pins those are, if you use your multimeter to do a continuity check (or diode test, as it is labeled on many multimeters) between those two pins on the other board (the one with most of the transformers) you should see a short (0 ohms) if you have the probes one way and should look like an open in the other direction (the transformer coil will look like a short to DC, and the Diodes D2 and D7 will conduct in one direction and not in the other, In both cases the transistors shouldn't be conducting).  If it looks like a short with the probes either way, something is wrong with either the diodes or the transistors (TR1 or TR3).

If that looks ok, then something must be turning at least one of those transistors on more or less constantly.

[jennifer]

    You gotta pull @ least 1 leg of the cap under test or you may get a false reading from a bad component elsewhere.

[404]

Yes they are all on another board with ic and other stuffs. Yes I have a decent multimeter but no experience testing circuits

just because it pops when adding power doesn't necessarily mean that the power supply is at fault here. Be sure to test the surrounding circuits on the board.

Hopefully someone with some direct DK experience can chime in soon. In the meantime, you can check out some basic testing vids from youtube that should help you probe around the board.

[welash]

    You gotta pull @ least 1 leg of the cap under test or you may get a false reading from a bad component elsewhere.

I guess I wasn't clear, I was suggesting disconnecting the two boards, and testing continuity on the board with the transformers.  I don't think there will be any capacitors to charge in that case.  But you are right, having capacitors  in the path (especially big ones) will make it difficult to check continuity.

[Maximus]

Ok looks like I have to test tr1 and tr3, no idea how exactly, I'll search around for some kind of dummies guide. I know you guys are trying to be helpful, but even your version of 'basic' language here is confusing me, I guess I don't have the engineer gene 

As Welash mentioned earlier I now understand that if either of the two transistors are jammed open then they could be just dumping current out onto the r1, although strange that the fuse never blows no??

Found these though so this should help a bit

[Maximus]

Ok I think i have a grasp of the basics on how to test a transistor so I can start there, do I have to pull them from the board to test or can I do it in place?

[welash]

To do a full test of the transistor you would need to pull it, but if it is shorted, you may be able to just check continuity between the Collector and Emitter (looks like it is pins 2 and 3 from the data sheet).  If it is conducting (in either direction) with no input at the base, it is bad.  You might also be able to do a basic test without removing it from the board, but by lifting either the collector or emitter (the emitter would be easier, as it is pin 3).

As to why the resistor blows instead of the fuse, the resistor is trying to dissipate about 500 watts (100 volts across 20 ohms) it is rated at 2 watts, so it blows pretty fast.  It should be pulling close to 5 amps, so the fuse (4 amp) should blow, but my guess is that as the resistor heats up its resistance increases a little and the resistor blows quickly enough that the fuse doesn't blow.  It is also possible that someone put in a larger fuse.

That debugging flowchart is pretty nice.  Hopefully it is just one of the transistors.  I actually hope that when you examine the board around the transistors, you'll find a solder bridge or piece of metal shorting out one of the transistors.

[Maximus]

Yep I'll try this tonight and see if I can get any further.

I ordered another pp7B PSU off eBay just in case I find myself in a corner burning way too much time on this. At some point I have to know when to walk away and just replace the piece as I have too many projects sitting in wait for this to grind on for too long. I'm still waiting on some other parts for my DK, so I'll try with this until they arrive, after that I'll just opt for the replacement

[Nephasth]

I ordered another pp7B PSU off eBay just in case I find myself in a corner burning way too much time on this. At some point I have to know when to walk away and just replace the piece as I have too many projects sitting in wait for this to grind on for too long. I'm still waiting on some other parts for my DK, so I'll try with this until they arrive, after that I'll just opt for the replacement

 

You threw the towel in too early. Why even bother to try to fix stuff?

[Maximus]

I'm still going to try on this, just not going to let it hold everything up. I f I fix it then great I'll have a spare Nintendo pp7b tested and working.

[Maximus]

Wood repair done, unnecessary bolt holes filled and started surface prep

[Maximus]

Back door repainted

[Maximus]

Tested TR3 out of the chassis and it is conducting on every leg in every direction so I'm assuming that's bad.

Tested TR1 that only conducts on the outside legs but does it in both directions, not sure if that's OK or not.

TR3 is T C2535 .1
TR1 is T C2555 .11

None if the diodes seem to be shorted, so if I'm lucky TR3 is my problem component.

Tried looking on mouser for this but couldn't find it, can someone help me find a replacement to order?

[jennifer]

     You can swap the PS for a switcher, and see if that gets it up, and/or unplug the monitor AC and see if it still pops the fuse. At least it will isolate the problem... Caps, transistors, or rectifers are most likely suspect.

[Maximus]

     You can swap the PS for a switcher, and see if that gets it up, and/or unplug the monitor AC and see if it still pops the fuse. At least it will isolate the problem... Caps, transistors, or rectifers are most likely suspect.

The monitor AC is completely independent and the resistor blows without any boards plugged in anyway.

[Nephasth]

Tested TR3 out of the chassis and it is conducting on every leg in every direction so I'm assuming that's bad.

Stop assuming. There's plenty of information on the net about how to test transistors and other circuit board components. Take the time, do the research, and know what is failing. Stop getting in a rush. If you get hung up on this, you've got plenty of other irons in the fire to direct your attention towards. Taking the time to gain some knowledge is more than worth it. You don't gain anything by taking shortcuts.

[Maximus]

Easy Sally. Conducting in all directions on b
All legs means its guaranteed dead I was just using a figure of speech.

[mcseforsale]

Problem with that type of rust is it can come back.  Next time, convert it with this stuff:



Otherwise, that thing looks awesome? 

AJ

[welash]

Tested TR3 out of the chassis and it is conducting on every leg in every direction so I'm assuming that's bad.

Tested TR1 that only conducts on the outside legs but does it in both directions, not sure if that's OK or not.

TR3 is T C2535 .1
TR1 is T C2555 .11

None if the diodes seem to be shorted, so if I'm lucky TR3 is my problem component.

Tried looking on mouser for this but couldn't find it, can someone help me find a replacement to order?

Looking at: http://alltransistors.com/transistor.php?transistor=13342 if you click on the cross reference table, the BUL45D2  should be a drop in replacement.  On mouser, they say that the BUL45D2 has been replaced by the BUL45D2G which is available for about a buck a piece.

I don't find a good replacement for the c2555 (at least not a cheap one available from a convenient source in a TO-218 package).  From what you found, I am a little concerned about the c2555.  The Base/emitter should act as a diode, and the base/collector should also act as a diode.

[Le Chuck]

Problem with that type of rust is it can come back.  Next time, convert it with this stuff:



Otherwise, that thing looks awesome? 

AJ

Holy CRAP!  That stuff is powerful.  It converts reality without even opening the can.  Griff, tread carefully, interdimensionsal sprays are not to be trifled with. 

[Maximus]

That's probably what you see when using the stuff in an unventilated area

[Malenko]

looks like a chic fil a cup to the right, maybe a box of pop tarts to the left?

[Le Chuck]

looks like a chic fil a cup to the right, maybe a box of pop tarts to the left?

According to the list on the fridge they're out of milk and laundry soap

[Gamester]

looks like a chic fil a cup to the right, maybe a box of pop tarts to the left?

That's not just any chic fil a cup...that's a milkshake! Mmmmm....

[Maximus]

Lol you guys really need to get out more.

ONWARD WITH THE PICTURETOGRAPHS!!!!


Nasty ass 30 year old glue removed, took a lot of alcohol, some of it I used on the glue BADDA BING!!!!


New black paint all around


Close up of the refinished marquee retainers


All ready for blue vinyl from Rich, also instruction cards, stickers and of course screen printed side art from Quarter Arcade


Coin mechs all cleaned and reassembled on the slots

[Maximus]

Door reassembled and ready to go back in the cab

[Malenko]

you are easily going to have the most beautiful non working DK cab ever.

[HaRuMaN]

you are easily going to have the most beautiful non working DK cab ever.

 

[Maximus]

you are easily going to have the most beautiful non working DK cab ever.

LOL. yeah but think of the energy savings.


Control panel prepped and ready for vinyl and instruction cards/stickers


Pulled all the boards from the EZV without incident, ready for capping. Thanks to Paigeoliver who offered his services to do the work on this, I'm going to try and do it myself first with a full cap kit and b+ pot that's on the way already. Apparently these Sanyo's are not easy to work on, but I'm just going to take my time and see what I can do.

[Maximus]

Bob Roberts Cap-Map for the EZ, sticking it here for reference.

[dandro]

apparently, "daddy needs sleep" lol

looking real good, man those coin mechs look mint.

[Maximus]

Looking at: http://alltransistors.com/transistor.php?transistor=13342 if you click on the cross reference table, the BUL45D2  should be a drop in replacement.  On mouser, they say that the BUL45D2 has been replaced by the BUL45D2G which is available for about a buck a piece.
I don't find a good replacement for the c2555 (at least not a cheap one available from a convenient source in a TO-218 package).  From what you found, I am a little concerned about the c2555.  The Base/emitter should act as a diode, and the base/collector should also act as a diode.

Thanks Welash, I'll take a look at that link for the BUL45D2G.

The c2555 seemed to be working properly from what I could work out, although of course my knowledge is minimal at this point.

Thanks Dandro, yeah the coins came out well, the overall condition of the cab is making this a pretty easy resto, it must have been sitting for a long time as it just doesn't have that 'worn' feel about it. Wooden corners are sharp and clean, no extra screw holes here and there, no chopped wires or snapped wire clips. I'm pretty excited for all the vinyl and stickers to arrive today as that will pretty much complete the whole cab itself, and then it will indeed be the prettiest Donkey Kong shaped paper weight.

[Maximus]

Just got the FedEx email confirming all the vinyls delivered, prepare for inbound late night pics of a pretty paperweight!!

[yotsuya]

^ So what's with the Facebook page. Are you hanging out your shingle?

[Maximus]

Lol what does that mean, haven't heard that one before

[HaRuMaN]

Lol what does that mean, haven't heard that one before

http://bit.ly/Zk4Ghn

[Maximus]

oooooh no, nothing that involved, I've got enough on my plate with KinEmote and my day job without adding anything else right now. Just a few of us decided to form a Team of builders and give ourselves a name to showcase the work.

[yotsuya]

WTF happened to my post? I explained that it was an old American colloquialism that meant you were starting your own business.

[HaRuMaN]

WTF happened to my post? I explained that it was an old American colloquialism that meant you were starting your own business.

I liked my explanation better 

[yotsuya]

I guess PBJ was right. Get a group of guys together, and there's always someone who want to start a splinter group.   

RIP, PBJ. 

[yotsuya]

WTF happened to my post? I explained that it was an old American colloquialism that meant you were starting your own business.

I liked my explanation better 

Yeah, I THOUGHT that's what happened! 

[Maximus]

I guess PBJ was right. Get a group of guys together, and there's always someone who want to start a splinter group.   

RIP, PBJ. 

Lol we're not going anywhere, just pulling together, hoping to collaborate on a few projects in the future.

[yotsuya]

Good for you guys! Just make sure you post stuff here, and not just at Facebook.

[Maximus]

Yeah the Facebook feed is just for big updates, completed stuff, otherwise it just becomes annoying to the more casual follower. All the hardcore builds in progress will still be here. We'll also be cataloging all the completed stuff at the Arcade Icons web site over time.

[yotsuya]

So who's we? I assume it's not simply the Royal We.

[Maximus]

So who's we? I assume it's not simply the Royal We.

Myself, Le Chuck and Fizgig

[yotsuya]

Fizgig? Is he a member here?

[Maximus]

No just KLOV

[Maximus]

Let the fun begin

[SlammedNiss]

I don't suppose you would need a monitor bezel graphic? I have a spare one that's just taking up space.

[Maximus]

Thanks but I have a good one, its vinyl though, but its nice



CP done

[SlammedNiss]

Mines just the vinyl as well. Had a friend who needed  one for his (shown above) and I printed out a couple. Lemme know if you change your mind.

[Maximus]

 

[Maximus]

That's all for tonight, going to get a hard rubber roller to do the sides, may as well use the right tool for the job

[yotsuya]

How easy did the vinyl go on? Any issues?

[harveybirdman]

  looks pretty cool dude, one doesn't have to wait long for the payoff with your projects.

[Maximus]

Meagh it was your run of the mill sign makers vinyl, I put it on with a water sprayer with a single drop of dish soap in 32oz of water.

[Maximus]

Thanks Harvey I  have too much in the garage so I'm trying to pick up the pace and move some stuff out

[Maximus]

Recapped the EZV sound board this morning as a practice for the main monitor board. Took me about 35 mins to do 7 caps so not bad. Little victories.

[Nephasth]

You going to clip those legs off?

[Maximus]

You going to clip those legs off?

I was going to make a nice braid out of them

Discovered a little hiccup this morning, the sheets of blue vinyl Rich sent were 1.5" too short for the cab side panels  I sent him an email, still waiting to hear back, the vinyl was only 63" long, the side panels are 64.5".

[Maximus]

Twenty something caps later I've finished recapping the monitor and sound board, also a new B+ pot for good measure.

Put it all back together and fired up the monitor................... tiny white dot in the middle of the screen   powered it off again quick. Well at least nothing went bang or blew smoke rings.

Wondering/hoping that its just because of the new B+ pot in a different position but scared its something more serious

[Maximus]

Apparently it helps if you attach the yoke to the chassis. DOH!

[PL1]

Well, looks like the yoke's on you.   

Glad nothing was fried.   


Scott

[Maximus]

Well, looks like the yoke's on you.   

Glad nothing was fried.   


Scott

Wakka wakka wakka.

Adjusted the B+ to 108v this morning now I have a bright stable edge to edge white screen. Now if I could just power up my game boards

[Maximus]

I wasn't happy with the finish of the sides so I'm coating them with ultra heavy Peel stop and primer. The stuff goes on like glue and is real heavy. A few coats of this and some good sanding should give me a really nice base for the new vinyl when it arrives

[Nephasth]

Paint. It deserves it.

[Maximus]

Yeah but I've already paid for the vinyl. If they do a refund then I'll go to paint

[Maximus]

Posting this for no other reason than an appreciation of the simplicity of these boards, theres a beauty to them

[Maximus]

Looks like no high score saves or D2k for me, Z80 isn't socketed

[Maximus]

Everything connected and ready to test but without a working power supply for the boards I'm a little dead in the water for now

[CoryBee]

Looks like no high score saves or D2k for me, Z80 isn't socketed

There's more than one way to skin a cat

[Maximus]

Looks like no high score saves or D2k for me, Z80 isn't socketed

There's more than one way to skin a cat

So you're saying I should write down my high scores on my cat then

[CoryBee]

Looks like no high score saves or D2k for me, Z80 isn't socketed

There's more than one way to skin a cat

So you're saying I should write down my high scores on my cat then

You have to knock it out first, trust me you don't want to engrave a conscious cat.


If you need to replace the chip you could do a myriad of things to get it off (hehe) if that is what you want.

Drag solder, heat gun, 

[yotsuya]

He wants you to use the cat skin as a replacement for those socketed chip, duh!

[Maximus]

Did more testing on the dead PSU yesterday. Using the troubleshooting flow chart I now know that TR1 and TR3 are good which lead me on to test D1, D7 and D2. I pulled up one leg on D2 and D7 to test them and they were working so I resoldered them. D1 showed working without having to pull it from the board.

This leaves me with only one last thing to test from the troubleshooting sheet, a Silicon Controlled Resister (or Thyrister) at SCR1 which, ironically is physically right next to the blowing R1 resister. The component is an NEC 5P2M. I had a hell of a time trying to work out which if the legs are the cathode, anode and gate as finding a datasheet with that information seems almost impossible, also I am struggling finding a replacement for it, closest I can find is a 5p4m on eBay.

I found a pinout for other NEC thyristers (5p4m) which indicate that with the component facing you the pins from left to right are...

1- Cathode
2 - Anode
3 - Gate

http://pdf.dzsc.com/5P4/5P4M.pdf

Assuming this is the same for the 5p2m I get the following results when I have my multimeter set to ohms

Red lead on Cathode > Black lead on Anode = infinite resistance
Read lead on Cathode > Black lead still on Anode and bridged to Gate = 222ohm
Red lead on Cathode > Black Lead on Gate = 222ohm
Red lead on Anode > Black lead on Gate = infinite

Black lead on Cathode > Red Lead on Gate = 222ohm
Black lead on Anode > Red Lead on Gate = Inifinite

Any insight?

[g0pkh]

Hi all

This may seem strange to you all that a complete newbie (who has only ever built a mame cab) posts offering help here.
But I have been following this thread for a while now with great interest.

I trained in electronics many years ago, and spent a long time gaining a lot of experience repairing switch mode PSU's  just like this.

I would like to fill in a few blanks which might help explain a little more what is going on here.

Reading from the schematic posted earlier on this thread, and seeing the photos. It is clear that this PSU is built over 2 circuit boards
but the schematic doesn't show this (no interconnections shown, is this the difference between the A and B units ?)

I will add the following comments but understand that I can only go from the schematic shown of course.

1) the resistor which is burning up appears to me to be a startup surge limiter. It is effectively shorted out by the thyristor mentioned
(SCR1) within a few cycles of the PSU starting up. The supply for the thyristor is provided via D1, R3 and C8 from a winding on the transformer T1.

2) therefore if there is a problem (short) on the main PSU board in that the supply wont start then the SCR will not turn on and the resistor will pass all the wasted current and burn up. In fact if there was a full short on the main PSU board (T1 or T3 short collector to emitter)  then I would expect that resistor to die violently in a shower of sparks, it didn't appear to do so.

3) I think your next course of action would be to test again (to be totally sure) T1, T3, the diodes  D2, D7 and D1. You should really do this out of circuit to completely verify that there are not shorts on these devices (use the diode test range of your meter).

Should there be no shorts on these components then we should take look at the secondary outputs, and associated rectifiers

D4, D5 and D9, note that D5 and D9 have two diodes in the package. The common cathode pin would normally be the centre pin.

As a note, I am sure you know but the Japanese miss 2 characters from transistor numbers usually.

The devices T1 and T3 would be 2SC2525 and 2SC2555 respectively.  2SC, 2SD  being NPN types and 2SA PNP.

I appologise for jumping in to this thread like this as a complete newbie. But (call me weird and maybe even sadistic if you like) I find SMPSU's fascinating.

I can take you further into fault diagnosis if you wish, but I will leave it there for now.

Kind regards

Pete

[yotsuya]

Kudos to you, Pete!

[CoryBee]

@Pete

 

[Maximus]

Hey Pete,

Thanks so much for jumping in, please please continue as I really do need someone of your skill level to be able to break down these steps into dummy level concepts and explanations so I can learn from the ground up. At this point I don't care about how much time I have to take or money I have to spend on this supply as I have a replacement coming for the cab itself. This is an opportunity for me to learn a new set of basic skills, and there's nothing better to motivate learning than a problem that needs solving.

Yep I worked out the proper descriptions for TR1 and TR3 and bought NTE equivalents at Frys to replace them, so that's why feel confident that they are now good (unless I killed these new ones too).

In case this gives any insight, the board blew when I already had the plugs for CPU and Audio plugged in. The PSU was powered on and I foolishly plugged in the Video plug (10 pin I believe) that's when the short came about - not sure if that helps narrow things.

[Maximus]

Also small update, ThisOldGame are shipping me replacement side vinyls this week, they agreed the vinyls are usually cut to 72" in length so they didn't know what happened with my pieces, they are taking care of it and I appreciate that for sure.

[g0pkh]

Hi all

Thanks for the kind welcome here.

I will try to be as much help as I can then. Before I continue though. I will say that I have no experience in the game cabs themselves. As far as I am concerned a cab just contains sub assembly's that connect together.

Psu, logic board, some wiring. And a colour monitor. In the event of any problem. It I simply a matter of breaking the unit down into individual units.

You mentioned that you had NTE equivalents. I must had missed the part that mentioned the original transistors were faulty. Can you tell me what the ohms readings were between the c,b & e

We're both TR1 and TR3 faulty?

What equivalents did you fit? And are they still ok? We need to be certain that the package types and lead outs are the same. It would be helpful to see pictures of the originals and the replacements.

If anyone has the schematic of the A unit psu showing the interconnections between the two boards, that would be very helpful.

Pete

[Maximus]

Here you go...

c2535 equiv fitted... NTE379
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/10331/NTE/NTE379.html

c2555 equiv fitted... NTE2308
http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/333/NTE2308-pdf.php

[Maximus]

Not sure if there is any help on this layout...



When I was plugging the video board socket into the PSU I think the two +5V pins hit first, maybe before the ground pins which is what start the fry up. I've yet to find any schematic that shows the interconnects between the two PSU boards

[Maximus]

Found a thread on KLOV with very similar issue...

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=193370

No resolution posted, but this trouble shooting info was offered...

Ok so I am at the library and looked at supply schematics.
Check

br1, c6, c7, scr1, r2, r3, d1, tr1.

visually check c5, c8.

If nothing there is shorted to grnd then we will have to look after the xformer

d4, d5, d6, ic3, tr2

[g0pkh]

Well the equivalents certainly look compatible at first glance.

Did you make sure you fitted the insulation washers,or pads if there were any? And if so be sure that the collector ( middle lead) is insulated from the metal heatsink.

Do these devices still read ok? Are you completely familiar now with how to test a transistor using a meter with a diode test facility. I assume your has this. ?

If I am going too fast. Do stop me.

The originals were both faulty, yes?  I find that a little strange if they were. Since the unit actually comprises of two almost separate supplies.

Thanks for the diagram, that is a little useful since it shows the entire game.
What is really needed is the PP7-A power unit diagram. That is what contains the two boards we re concerned with

I assume the B unit contains the entire psu on one board rather than two. Can anyone confirm this for me.

Pete

[Maximus]

Hi Pete, no the 7B and 7A are virtually identical bar a few small tweaks as I understand it.

TR3 was conducting in all directions, all legs, that was how I came to the conclusion it was fried. I must admit I just replaced TR1 as I was in the store so I just bought that and threw it in too, bad science I know but I'm so lost in this I was grasping at anything.

I made sure both transistors were insulated from the heat sink with the rubber cover that goes over them all.

I've tried testing the transistors with my multimeter and think I have done it right, but to be honest I really don't know for certain again due to lack of experience.

As for a layout showing the interconnects between the two internal PSU boards I think we are SOL

[g0pkh]

Your last post refers almost exactly what I said in my first.
When I talked about the secondary side.

Secondary side. Is all parts after the transformers. In particular the circuit which is isolated from the mains supply.

Pete

[g0pkh]

Ok

So if TR3 showed continuity between all three connections then that would cause a burn up of the resistor.

You shouldn't,t have replaced TR1 at that point without testing. As you could have introduced another fault.
But you understand that now 

Have you tried the PSU since. If not. Please don't yet. We should do a few further tests first.
I could use some nice close ups of the circuit board containing the transistors. We also need to confirm that none of the diodes are faulty.

Ok about the A and B units then.
The difficulty we have is determining exactly what one you have.

[Maximus]

I know for sure it's a 7B, due to the location of some of the caps, (and it says 7B on the outside  ).

Yes I tried it after installing the two new transistors and poof went R1 again. I think I still have TR1 in teh trash can next to my desk so I can fish it out maybe later this evening and try and retest it.

[g0pkh]

Ok. If R1 failed again. You must recheck those transistors again.

[Maximus]

Ok. If R1 failed again. You must recheck those transistors again.

Good times 

[g0pkh]

Also D2 D3 D7 D8 and D9

D9 will look similar to TR3 and be mounted on the heatsink under the rubber strip.

Don't at this stage remove the diodes just make sure the board is unplugged and completely removed.

Come back to me with meter readings in both directions on all above parts. .

We can then remove any if the readings look wrong to confirm further.

You should use the diode test range on your meter. And wait for readings to settle. Measuring in circuit will charge capacitors. So just leave meter probes on for awhile.

Pete

[g0pkh]

Testing D9 The dual diode in circuit will show a short across the two outer connections. This Is
due to the transformer secondary winding.

Just test each outer connection to the centre pin, both ways

[g0pkh]

Sorry.

You will need to remove D9 to test. There is a 100ohm load resistor which will scupper your test.

That lot should keep you busy for a while 

[Maximus]

Ok will do, thanks for all the info, I'll report back with results if I get to it this evening. Also d2 and d7 wouldn't test in the board last time I had to lift a leg on them - lol

[Maximus]

Going to pick up one of these for $19 to keep in my toolkit, seems like it will prove very useful as I move forward with this area of the hobby...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400431622482&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

[Maximus]

Assuming pins left to right with transistor front facing are 1,2 and 3

Old removed C2555
1 neg 2 pos - 0
1 neg 3 pos - 0
1 pos 2 neg - 0.531v
1 pos 3 neg - 0.531v

Old removed C2535
Nothing in any combination on any pin

[Maximus]

C2535 in circuit, new component

1 neg 2 pos 0.001v
1 neg 3 pos 0.001v
2 neg 3 pos 0v
2 neg 1 pos 0.001v
3 neg 1 pos 0.001v
3 neg 2 pos 0v

C5555 in circuit new component

1 neg 2 pos 0.005v
1 neg 3 pos 0.005v
2 neg 3 pos 0v
2 neg 1 pos 0.005v
3 neg 1 pos 0.005v
3 neg 2 pos 0v

[Maximus]

D2 good 0.443v
D3 good 0.443v
D7 good 0.443v
D8 good 0.452v

Had to lift these out of circuit to test as in circuit they gave bouncing readings in both directions

[Maximus]

D9 out of circuit

1 neg 2 pos 0v
1 neg 3 pos 0v
2 neg 3 pos 0v
2 neg 1 pos 0.135v
3 neg 1 pos 0.135v
3 neg 2 pos 0v

[Maximus]

Still can't work out how to test scr1 properly

[welash]

you could try one of the two methods on this page:

http://www.circuitstoday.com/how-to-test-an-scr

The multimeter only method seems like it might take a little coordination but doesn't require you to build a test circuit.

One of the things you said above confuses me.  Did you replace the transistors, and plug the power supply in, and everything was ok until you connected the video board, are are you saying that originally the power supply was ok untill you connected the video board.

After you replaced the transistors, were you able to plug in the power supply and measure the outputs, and were they ok?

One thing that g0pkh mentioned, are both transistors mounted to the same heat sink?  If so, is there any insulator between the transistor and the heat sink?  If not, it is likely that the 2 transistors collectors are shorted to each other, which wouldn't be good (at least if I read the schematic correctly. You could check if this is happening by checking continuity between the collectors of the two transistors.  If when you removed the transistors there was something between the transistors and the heat sink, make sure to put it back.

[g0pkh]

Ok thanks for the readings.

I am a little confused by your representation of the readings however

When you tested the 2SC2555 you got these readings

Old removed C2555
1 neg 2 pos - 0
1 neg 3 pos - 0
1 pos 2 neg - 0.531v
1 pos 3 neg - 0.531v

What does 0 mean ? Open or short ?

What does your meter display when
1) leads shorted together = short circuit
2) leads open = open circuit

The readings of 0.531 actually look good (it is close to the junction voltage of a diode.
I can see that 1 is therefore the BASE and clearly the junctions look good.

You must always test between COLLECTOR and EMITTER as well, both ways round between 2 and 3

This transistor at first sight looks good.

NEXT.
This test

Old removed C2535
Nothing in any combination on any pin

when you say nothing on any pin do you mean a short circuit or an open circuit ?
Remember meter leads joined together = short circuit and meter leads apart = open circuit.
I suspect you mean short circuit.



The test here

C2535 in circuit, new component

1 neg 2 pos 0.001v
1 neg 3 pos 0.001v
2 neg 3 pos 0v
2 neg 1 pos 0.001v
3 neg 1 pos 0.001v
3 neg 2 pos 0v

confuses me a bit what does 0V mean compared to 0.001V referring to what I asked about meter readings with leads shorted or open.


Does 0V means meter leads shorted, I suspect it does ?

Since you have the board out can you remove this transistor and retest please, post the readings here.

I would expect to similar readings to the old 2555 which you removed.
especially the .531v or similar between base collector and base emitter.

For guidance on testing transistors you may find this page helpful.

http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Transistor

I would suggest you study and practice it using the old 2555 which you removed (looks good) and the 2535 youve just removed (looks suspect).


Let me know your test results.

Its looking like the fault is on the 5V part of this supply now.

Pete

[g0pkh]

Something looks strange about D9

While I see two junctions (0.135V)
they appear not to be on the correct pins which you indicated earlier

Can you recheck this for me ?

I would expect to see the .135 reading between 1 and 2 and 3 and 2 in one direction only.
With nothing between 1 and 3 in either direction.


Pete

[g0pkh]

Also

while TR3 is out can you check R19 and R20

according to the diagram

R19 = 51 ohms
and
R20 = 12 ohms.

You will have to lift one end of each to check them because of transformer T4

[g0pkh]

Looking at the circuit diagram, it should be possible to power up the supply with TR3 removed. You are not ready to try this yet however, so please only read and try to understand.


I feel at this stage that I must highlight some very important safety information. There are dangerous voltages within this unit.

I would like to express that the information I give is for information only, it is entirely your responsibility should you wish to act on it. It must be understood that I will take absolutely no reponsibility for any damage, injury or even death!

LETHAL VOLTAGES ARE PRESENT.
PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL. IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT DON'T DO IT...

 
Ok. ON with the show ...

I will give you a run down of how it works.
I appologise if I loose you through this blurb but I will try to keep the description as easy as possible. You will I am sure need to read this two or three times, maybe even more.
If you can understand this eventually then it will stand you in good stead for future projects too.

Print off the schematic diagram first and have that in front of you.
 
You should be able to see that this PSU actually contains 3 separate power circuits.

1)A switching power supply to provide -5, +12 and +24
The transistor for this is TR1 a 2SC2555.

2) Another switching supply to provide the +5V for the game board, this is quite a high current supply hence it is separate.    Switched of course by TR3 the 2SC2535.
This supply also has    overvoltage protection built in to protect the logic (more of that later if you are interested).

3) A low voltage (linear) supply comprising mains transformer T5 and diode bridge BR2. This provides around 12V to power the control IC (IC1) which provides the switching signal for TR1 (via transformer T3)

The supply for IC2 (switching signal for the 5V logic PSU TR3)is actually provided from the +12V supply of the other PSU via a 7812 voltage regulator (IC4) from the +24V rail. Hence if the 24V rail is not there then neither will be the +12V or +5V .

The two main PSU's are fed from about 180V DC which is present across the large caps C6, C7. This input voltage is provided from the rectifier BR1 through our old friend the surge limiter R1.

SCR and R1

   As soon as the 24V supply is present then an AC voltage    will be present across the transformer winding T1 and    rectifed by D1. It is this voltage which fires the SCR    effectively shorting out R1 until power is completely    removed and next restored.

Perhaps at this stage maybe I should stop for a breather. If you are finding the info useful then I can go deeper if you wish.


Pete

[Maximus]

Ok this is a lot to go through, thanks for taking all this time to lay it all out. First I'll start by trying to answer the questions in the order you asked them. Now I understand what OL means on my meter lol...

c2555 - old one
1 neg 2 pos - OL
1 neg 3 pos - OL
1 pos 2 neg - 0.531v
1 pos 3 neg - 0.531v
2 neg 3 pos = OL
2 pos 3 neg = OL

c2535 - old one
0.000v on every leg combination so I assume that means they are all shorted, otherwise it would say OL

c2535 - new - test out of circuit
1 neg 2 pos 0.002v (SHORT?)
1 neg 3 pos 0.002v (SHORT?)
2 neg 3 pos SHORT
2 neg 1 pos 0.002v (SHORT?)
3 neg 1 pos 0.002v (SHORT?)
3 neg 2 pos SHORT

looks dead again I guess

D9 retest out of circuit
1 neg 2 pos OL
1 neg 3 pos OL
2 neg 3 pos SHORT
2 neg 1 pos 0.140v
3 neg 1 pos 0.140v
3 neg 2 pos SHORT

R20 out of circuit - 12 ohms
R19 out of circuit - 51 ohms

SO looks like TR3 is also getting killedi n the 5v circuit. This would also coincide with the circumstances witnessed where it first blew when I said that I think the +5v pins hit before anything else.

[g0pkh]

OL yes that's better LOL

D9 looks bad too. There is one diode which is shorted in it

The one between pin 2 and 3

because of the short you are reading the good one twice.

We need to try to source a replacement.

That would be what is killing the transistor too, I expect.

Will see what I can find out about it.  It is a dualt diode with the common cathode connection at the centre. Will be a schottly type too.

Pete

[Maximus]

Ok D9 is marked as C10P048 I did a quick search on that but having trouble finding info on it.

[g0pkh]

CTB33S is a dual 12A  35V schotty barrier diode, with common cathodes to the centre pin looks like a TO220 package but cant be sure.

An equivalent should be easily obtainable.
Since I am in the UK I would likely find a different equivalent.

You need another transistor too. Along with R1 again.

Don't rush to power it up afterwards you should make cold checks first, it's all too easy to blow the whole lot up again.

Pete


EDIT

Hmm I would guess a 10A 48V device. Different to that shown on the diagram then.

[g0pkh]

Something like this from Digikey (I know you guys use them across the pond)

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VS-25CTQ045PBF/25CTQ045PBF-ND/812210


or this

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VS-MBR3045WTPBF/MBR3045WTPBF-ND/811514

assuming of course that the package matches

[Maximus]

Something isn't adding up about the labeling of that diode, I can't find it anywhere in that 3-leg form factor, as it's 10a 45v can we sub it out for a higher ampage?

[Maximus]

Here's the proper PP7B schematic

[Maximus]

So yep according to this too the part should be CTB-33S a 12A 35V SDPR, not sure what the hell that is that's in there now then.

[Maximus]

Will this do the job, I can get this on the way home... http://www.nteinc.com/specs/6000to6099/pdf/nte6085.pdf

[g0pkh]

Hi
Assuming the package is a TO220
Then yes that would certainly be worth a try.

The CTB33S is rated less than that. So an overrated part is better in most cases.

I couldn't find any info about the c10p048 either.

Obviously be certain you use the original insulators when mounting it.

Pete

[Maximus]

Sounds good I will grab them on the way home.

I'm assuming you are in the UK, so you may be in the land of Nod by the time I start on this tonight. So when I pop all these confirmed components back in place (although I've still yet to properly test SCR1) what should I do from there?

Thanks for all the help, I'm sure I must be absorbing some of this as I go along

[g0pkh]

Hi

Be careful I have just checked the package style for ctb33s it seems to be a TO247 rather than TO220

Does your supplier have any other diodes in this package of a similar rating?


Yeah I am in the UK it's 9:21 here so not in the land of nod just yet   

[Maximus]

Cool, I'm originally from Chester, live in San Diego now though.

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/6000to6099/pdf/nte6091.pdf this seems to be the closest

[g0pkh]

The things  to check once all the parts are back in.

The insulation of all devices from the heatsink (particularly the centre tag)
 

Check for a short circuit across the HT rail (R1 to Gnd)
The collectors of both switching transistors to ground.
Collector to emitter of both switching transistors again looking for short circuits.

I would be surprised if the Scr is faulty but just check it pin to pin all round looking for shorts.

I would actually advise the first test of the PSU be done disconnected from the game board.
If you could connect a lamp across the 5v rail as a load instead. say a car tail lamp bulb

The last thing you want is for a fault to risk adage to the logic board.

From the circuit there appears to be an over voltage trip which will shut down the 5v rail if it goes much above 5.6v

Good luck

Pete

EDIT

Yeah that diode should handle it with ease.

[g0pkh]

Chester eh?

Just north of London for me on the Hertfordshire Essex border
Stansted

[Maximus]

Something I don't understand now that I understand the layout a little.

Why didn't i get any power on any of the pins even 24v 12v and -5v if it was just the +5v rail that was nuked, was that because nothing got past R1?

[g0pkh]

You guys are so lucky over there.
I would kill for the source of Arcade machines you guys have.

I have restored a Rockola jukebox though which was a nice challenge

Pete

[g0pkh]

Something I don't understand now that I understand the layout a little.

Why didn't i get any power on any of the pins even 24v 12v and -5v if it was just the +5v rail that was nuked, was that because nothing got past R1?

That s a good question

I think t likely that R1 failed before the SCR had chance to fire.
Once R1 was open of course then no power would reach either switching transistor.

It's almost as if R1 is there to protect the fuse lol

[Maximus]

ok cool, that's what I was thinking, see I may be learning something  ok well i'll put it all together and test it all tonight and see what happens. If you don;t hear from we again I'll probably be found lying on my garage floor with a chunk of solder shot through my left eyeball.

[g0pkh]

Please be careful

Remember a golden rule about working with electricity. One hand in your pocket.

That was drummed into me many years ago.

Beware bits of flying plastic lol

Been there,done that got the T shirt.

Things seems to go wrong a lot quicker over here with twice the mains voltage though. 

[Maximus]

Things seems to go wrong a lot quicker over here with twice the mains voltage though. 

And all the rain 

[g0pkh]

That's true.
Been a lovely warm day today though

[Maximus]

No joy at Fry's they only had the Nte 6090 which was the T022 package and they were all out of the C2325 clone so I'm going to have to order online

Sanded down the heavy fill primer tonight and then did two coats of regular white primer. Not very exciting stuff

[g0pkh]

That's a shame 

Hopefully the bits wont take too long.

[Maximus]

Final sanding done for the sides. New blue vinyl is arriving today so hopefully by tonight all cab cosmetics will be complete. The black marks on the back of the panel edge are paint from blacking out the back of the cab, not horrible chips lol

[Malenko]

wanna send me the blue that was too short?

[Maximus]

wanna send me the blue that was too short?

What would you use it for?

[yotsuya]

Blue Screen Skin Suit.

[Nephasth]

Blue Screen Skin Suit.

 

Green Man's nemesis!

[Maximus]

Hey Pete,

I was going to order that D9 replacement from Digikey or mouser, having trouble finding a none NTE alternative to the 2sc2535, would be nice if I could get them all at the same place, can you advise on that.

Maybe this for 2sc2535???

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/BUL89/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kAuOt55Alb1Hn0BvgJit9GA%3d

and this for the CTB-33S replacement?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/VS-MBR4045WTPBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fJSNqGZMTeJU2xdAUbkQHOc%3d

and this for the 2w020 R1
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12FR020Evirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-12FR020E

[g0pkh]

Hi

Transistor looks good

Diode looks good ( a bit overkill on the current lol)

Resistor you listed was 0.02 ohms oooops

Look at this one instead
They  don't seem to stock 20 ohms but 18 would do
Mouser Part No:   
660-PCF2C180K

[Malenko]

I'd use it on my "Weecade" kit I got from Haruman. Its currently blank melamine, but I thought abbout wrapping it in the blue and going with white molding and buttons/stick.

[Maximus]

Sure PM me your shipping info and I'll send whatever I have left over when the build is finished.

[Maximus]

Hi

Transistor looks good

Diode looks good ( a bit overkill on the current lol)

Resistor you listed was 0.02 ohms oooops

Look at this one instead
They  don't seem to stock 20 ohms but 18 would do
Mouser Part No:   
660-PCF2C180K

Thanks Pete, parts ordered, will take a few days.

[g0pkh]

On that resistor. You might be wise to beef it up a little and go for the 3w one


Mouser Part No:   
660-HPC3C180K
18ohm 3w flameproof

[Maximus]

On that resistor. You might be wise to beef it up a little and go for the 3w one


Mouser Part No:   
660-HPC3C180K
18ohm 3w flameproof

too late, already ordered, oh well we'll see

[g0pkh]

Never mind I was too late lol

Should be ok though

[Maximus]

Vinyl going on. Thanks Rich for the speedy replacement

[Maximus]

Now if only it played Donkey Kong

[Maximus]

Here's the fancy shots....

[mcseforsale]

Wow.  That looks awesome.  How's the electronical stuff coming?

AJ

[Maximus]

Wow.  That looks awesome.  How's the electronical stuff coming?

Thanks man, I'm still waiting on a replacement supply I bought, or the components to come from Mouser with the hope of fixing the one I assploded. 

[Malenko]

looks so good it almost looks fake. 

[Maximus]

looks so good it almost looks fake. 

Ha that's what I love about these Nintendo cabs, they look like real life cartoon characters themselves

[Maximus]

Looks like the power supply is on the truck for delivery today, so with a little luck we can power everything up and hope that blowing up the last supply didn't do any damage to the boards, also we'll see if all the reseating and cleaning of the socket chips has solved our crashing problem - fingers crossed.

[melvinbates]

 :applaud:Wow that cab looks beautiful.

[Shortbus]

NICE WORK!

[Maximus]

Encouraging.....

[Maximus]

Man in having a bad monitor day.

Everything was great for about 3 mins then poof the monitor is now blowing the 300ma fuse at the back of the main board

Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh










Poo

[Maximus]

Looks like the HOT may be bad, I tested it this morning out of circuit and I'm getting 0.47 on each leg in diode test mode, apparently it should be more like 4.53. Found an NTE equivalent for the Q902 part which Bob Roberts lists as a 2SD869, so hopefully FRYs has that on the shelf and I can grab one at lunch time along with a few fuses.

[yotsuya]

Looks like the HOT may be bad, I tested it this morning out of circuit and I'm getting 0.47 on each leg in diode test mode, apparently it should be more like 4.53. Found an NTE equivalent for the Q902 part which Bob Roberts lists as a 2SD869, so hopefully FRYs has that on the shelf and I can grab one at lunch time along with a few fuses.

Griff-

Check this out: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/cirbreaker.html

You can get those circuit breakers at Fry's. I went through almost $15 in fuses recently trying to fix a motor control board. Good luck! 

[Maximus]

Oh hell yeah I'm going to grab one of those, thanks man that's a big help. 

[yotsuya]

No prob. I grabbed a 3A one and a pack of those insulated allegator clips to build my own.

[Maximus]

Just came from Fry's and they had everything including the hot and the voltage reg. Got a half amp thermal circuit protector and some insulated clips too.

[Maximus]

We don't need no stinkin' fuses

[Maximus]

Well still no joy. I found that the red lead that goes to the HOT casing is shorted to ground now I'm stuck again. I guess it means something in the circuit is shorted

[Maximus]

OK here we go back into schematic hell. So I am assuming that the red line going to the H.O.T at Q902 is not supposed to be grounded. I'm still scratching my head as to why the monitor worked for about three minutes and then just went poof. So where are my electronical gurus peoples? I wonder if the voltage regulator has taken a poop.

[welash]

It is a little hard to read the schematic, but I think that is Q902 in the box at the bottom of the page.  Do you know if the case is connected to the collector, the base or the emitter?  If it is connected to the base or emitter, both of those would look like a short to ground through an inductor and transformer.  If it is connected to the collector (I think that is more common) then are you sure it is shorted to ground, and it isn't just that you need to let the capacitors connected to the collector charge up.  With a multimeter, if you check continuity across a capacitor, it will initially look like a short, and slowly build up resistance.  Those look like rather large caps, so it might take a while for them to charge up.

[Maximus]

To do the test i was just putting my negative to the chassis and then my positive to the red wire not connected to the HOT and getting a short reading. If you click on the schematic it will go full size.

[welash]

Ok, you made me get out my glasses.

According to the package diagrams on the right side, the case of Q902 should be the collector.  Looking at the values of the capacitors, they seem to be pretty small, (100s or thousands of pico farads) so they should charge up pretty quick.  Makes sense that they wouldn't be too big in a relatively high frequency circuit.  It is still possible that if you have the yoke connected that something on that looks like a short to ground.

[Maximus]

Ok I can test that tonight, I'll disconnect the yolk and try again. If that is the case I'm kind of lost as to how to start troubleshooting this. From all the research I have done so far all the monitor 'experts' seem to be able to say is its a fuse, or the H.O.T. or a bad flyback. The flyback looks fine visually no signs of goo or cracking, the HOT has been replaced. I've got a few PMs and threads out asking on the subject but the silence is now rather deafening.

[g0pkh]

Hi guys

Oh dear... This is turning into a nightmare isn't it.

You have done such great work on the cabinet too.

Ok, I will try to help here too.

You mention this

So I am assuming that the red line going to the H.O.T at Q902 is not supposed to be grounded.

Can you be more specific about where you are testing this.

Looking at the schematic. I can see that the collector of the H.O.T is linked to the top pin of the LOPT (7)

Line OutPut Transformer  (sorry UK terminology may differ from US, I think you refer to it as a Flyback)

Is it this that is short to gnd. if so then remove the H.O.T (or just clear the collector from the print) and check again.

There is another trick of the trade here that I will share, that is that you can test the entire PS and regulator by replacing the H.O.T with a domestic light bulb (60W ish)

across collector - emitter (transistor out of course) Pin 7 of LOPT to Gnd


Another useful bit of test gear LOL 60W domestic bulb soldered to leads with crocodile clips on. Ideas from my TV servicing days.
I should start to charge for all these useful bits of info 

With the bulb connected, it should light and you should be able to measure the correct +B volts across it, the +B should be fully adjustable using the +B pot (VR601)
I can't  see what the +B should be set to, but normally in a monitor such as this, I would expect around 105V to 115V ish.

EDIT
After looking at the capacitor voltages on the +B line I think it will be more like 80 - 90V since caps appear to rated at only 100V

If the line is still short to ground with the Collector of the H.O.T isolated and no lamp connected then I will try to guide you further, we will need to isolate parts of the circuit further

You will need the monitor out now, and on the bench in a usable position (access to both sides of the main board) Don't worry connections to the main board
at this point, it should power up on its own at least to a blank raster.



Pete

[g0pkh]

A word of warning.

be careful when selecting a replacement H.O.T
some have built in diodes across collector - emitter. and some even have a low value resistor across base emitter.

How does your original check out on the meter ?

Pete

[Maximus]

A word of warning.

be careful when selecting a replacement H.O.T
some have built in diodes across collector - emitter. and some even have a low value resistor across base emitter.

How does your original check out on the meter ?

Pete

In diode test mode the old one reads 0.47v between the casing and each leg in one direction and nothing in the other. Someone told me this was bad so I changed it out and then new one reads exactly the same before I even installed it. So that would hint there was nothing wrong in the first place

[Maximus]

Back to the power supply. The parts arrived from Mouser so I installed them all, made sure the resistors and diodes were all back in the board, checked my soldering and fired it up. No smoking R1 resistor, no bangs, no burning, no blown fuses........... no power at any of the pins. 

This combined with my mystery monitor issue, my dead AGM medium res for the Paperboy and some supplier issues for parts are all combining to make my worst week yet in this hobby.

Not a happy puppy.

[g0pkh]

Hmm

Things are not going your way today.

The only way to solve the power supply problem will be to start methodically checking for voltages around the unit now.
You will need to have the supply boards open on the bench out of the metal box and connected to each other. Forget connecting to the rest of the machine at this stage, except for the power input connections.

You need to decide your priorities.

Do you want to sort the monitor out first, or the spare PSU ?

I think you will need time to gather your thoughts first.

Then if you think I will be of further help to you, let me know. Just decide what you want to work on first.

Pete

[Maximus]

Thanks Pete,

To be honest at this point I need to get at least three outstanding projects finished up and out of my garage as we are starting to look for houses again so a move could be on the horizon. So as you said, priorities need to fall into place and mine needs to be get things finished. At this point I think I'm going to buy a refurb monitor chassis, get that thing running, slammed in this cab and out of the way. Paperboy after that and a Barrel of Kong after that, my VPin is gathering dust too so I'm in full overload right now.

I will keep the PSU and 20EZ boards as projects that I can come back to when I have more time as they are teaching me some good fundamentals and this is a subject i want to learn more on. Perhaps I can hit you up further down the line for advice and brainstorming. I really appreciate your help, and even though the problems weren't resolved they have taken me further than I have been before.

[Maximus]

Actually Ken Layton advised me to check the diodes and the mylar capacitors in the horizontal circuit in the vicinity of the flyback for the Sanyo monitor, trying to work out which ones they are from that schematic

[g0pkh]

Where does the red wire go on the HOT? 
To the case or one of the other leads ?

With the HOT still disconnected check across C472 is there a short here ?
what about TP11 +B test point (I think) drawing not to clear. Is there a short here also ?

Did you replace all the caps ? are any bulged at the top ? Maybe one was put in reversed in error (we've all done it)

Pete

[Maximus]

Hi Pete

The red wire goes to the case of the HOT. I'll take a look at those components you mentioned . the only cap I see that wasn't replaced and looks a bit bulgy is a green one on the middle of the board. I'll try and check on this stuff tonight

[Maximus]

Pulled the board again maybe the flyback is bad after all?

[welash]

According to the legend on the schematic, the ones that have an N by the voltage rating are mylar (polypropelene film).  The capacitor that you describe, if it is shaped like a big green "chicklet" is probably a mylar cap.  The only mylar cap that I see near the HOT is C473.  I assume when you installed the capacitor kit, you only replaced the electrolytic caps.  There are a couple of those by the flyback (C471 and C472).  You want to make sure if you did replace them, that they are in in the correct orientation.

The other capacitors are shown as ceramic capacitors.  You might want to check them for shorts, just in case. 

The only Diode that I could see being an issue is D453. 

[Maximus]

Thanks welash. Also I just removed the flyback and powered up the board. It didn't blow a fuse and I got audio.

[Maximus]

Yep C471 and C472 are new and in correct. C473 is indeed a big old chiclet

[welash]

With the flyback out, that eliminates C473, C474, and C475 from being shorted.  You might check C471 and C472 and D453.  You could check if pin 11 of the flyback is shorted to ground, or pin 5? 6? 8?, whatever the center tap on the primary side of the flyback is. 

[yotsuya]

  to you, Griff, for not going the 60-in-1/LCD route yet. 

[Maximus]

With the flyback out, that eliminates C473, C474, and C475 from being shorted.  You might check C471 and C472 and D453.  You could check if pin 11 of the flyback is shorted to ground, or pin 5? 6? 8?, whatever the center tap on the primary side of the flyback is.

 12, 11, 10, 9, 6 and 7 all seem to short to each other. 12 looks to be ground. Nothing shorts to 1,2,4 or 8

[Maximus]

With the flyback out, that eliminates C473, C474, and C475 from being shorted.  You might check C471 and C472 and D453.  You could check if pin 11 of the flyback is shorted to ground, or pin 5? 6? 8?, whatever the center tap on the primary side of the flyback is.

D453 is solid actually reads 0.453v in diode test lol and open in other direction. 471 and 472 are new and in correct don't own a cap tester

[welash]

oops, I think I was unclear.  With the transformer out, do the places where pin 11 or the center tap go on the board show that they are shorted to ground.  I would think that with what you were seeing when the transformer was in the circuit, one of those 2 pins must be shorted to ground. 

You could also just check continuity from the + side of C472 to ground.

Wait, did you say that on the transformer itself, with it out of the circuit, pin 12 shows continuity to pin 7?  I would expect to see pins 7 6 and 11 to show continuity to each other and 12 to show continuity to 9 and 10 (that is if I am reading all of the pin numbers right, basically if the pins are all on the same coil they will show continuity at dc).  I would not expect those sets to show continuity to each other.  If 12 shorts to 7, 12 is grounded according to the schematic, so 7 will be grounded.

[Maximus]

In the pin sockets using the diode test with negative probe in socket 12 ground the only sockets that are not open are 8 and 9 bother give me a reading. 9 gives 0.672v and 8 gives 0.926v.

C472 + pin to ground shows open in diode mode

On the flyback pins. Pin 12 ground shorts to pins 6,7,9 10 & 11

Also 11 shorts to 10,9,6 & 7

[welash]

If the drawing of the flyback in the schematic is correct, I don't think pin 12 should show continuity to pin7.  It is possible that the drawing is inaccurate, and that they do share a winding, but I doubt it.  Hopefully someone who knows for sure will chime in.

[Maximus]

EDIT: here's a close up from another copy of the manual...



Looking in the manual, it seems that pins 6,7 and 11 shouldn't have any continuity with pin 12 unless they do share a winding and the drawing is wrong.

Maybe this is causing my blown fuses and issues?

[g0pkh]

If you are directly measuring the pins on the back of the lopt with it out of circuit
Then pin 12 should only show continuity between 10 and 9 since those 3 pins are a single centre tapped winding.

Likewise 7,6 and 11 are the primary and should show no connection to any other pins. Again measured on the back of the tx with it out of circuit

Pete

Certainly if 6,7 or 11 is short to 12 then that will place a short directly across the +B power rail. And result in blown fuses

[Maximus]

If you are directly measuring the pins on the back of the lopt with it out of circuit
Then pin 12 should only show continuity between 10 and 9 since those 3 pins are a single centre tapped winding.

Likewise 7,6 and 11 are the primary and should show no connection to any other pins. Again measured on the back of the tx with it out of circuit

Pete

yes I am doing exactly that

[g0pkh]

I think we can assume in that case that the transformer has failed

[Maximus]

Yeah it's looking that way, which is good as we did it through testing, and bad as the entire planet seems to be sold out of them 

[Maximus]

Found one at ArcadeShop, ordered it today so lets keep our fingers crossed. Thanks for everyone's help on this, it's been quite frustrating but I guess very educational.

[g0pkh]

That's good.

Before you fit it you might like to check the regulator is working. Load up the power supply +B with a 60w
Bulb like I said earlier across C472

Set the B+ voltage to the correct value, then recheck once the new lopt is fitted

Just in case

Pete

[Maximus]

That's good.

Before you fit it you might like to check the regulator is working. Load up the power supply +B with a 60w
Bulb like I said earlier across C472

Set the B+ voltage to the correct value, then recheck once the new lopt is fitted

Just in case

Pete

OK will do that

[Maximus]

Finally some good news. New flyback installed and the screen looks fantastic, no blown fuses


Also no crashes so far since cleaning and reseating all the roms

[dfmaverick]

Good to see projects are progressing to the finished stage.

[Maximus]

Well I think we can call this one complete.


Thanks to everyone who participated in this thread and build its always easier when you have people coming along on the journey

[mcseforsale]

So, when you deliver it, I may not be there.  I'll leave the key under the mat at the basement door.  Just put it next to the Blue Pill.

Thanks,
AJ

Well I think we can call this one complete.


Thanks to everyone who participated in this thread and build its always easier when you have people coming along on the journey

[TheShaner]

Very Nice!  Now hurry up and clear out that garage, I need to see some VPin progress!

[Gamester]

Awesome job!  Definitely a piece to be proudly displayed and enjoyed.   

[floriske.nl]

Yet another great project from your hands 

Really love to see the effort, devotion and craftsmanship you put in your projects!

[Maximus]

Thanks guys, the restoration process was a new set of skills to learn. I have to say I really do hate trying to make old wood like new again lol, but the up side is that everything already fits perfectly in place so there's none of those design headaches to deal with like a scratch build.

[Maximus]

So, when you deliver it, I may not be there.  I'll leave the key under the mat at the basement door.  Just put it next to the Blue Pill.

Thanks,
AJ

Sure thing bro, just leave the $2,000 under the mat too.

[Maximus]

Very Nice!  Now hurry up and clear out that garage, I need to see some VPin progress!

Yep, Paperboy is nearly done, art arrives today but I may have to get it reprinted, depends on the colors, Scott says Paperboy's skin color is 'very pink' so I may have to have it redone. Otherwise it's just T-Molding and some tiny touchup. Next is Barrel of Kong, I have everything I need I just have to put it all together.