Restore of a nice Donkey Kong - COMPLETE

[Maximus]

Bahhhhh. Replaced it and as soon as I powered up it fried again, something else is bad

[Maximus]

Something has shorted, any suggestions? Neph do you have a link to the pp7b schematic

[SlammedNiss]

Tested the pin outs on the PSU and they were all solid and spot on.

Then I blew it up.

Forgot it was turned on and tried plugging in the video board plug. Smokey smokey smokey. Hope I haven't friend the video board. I'm such a dumbass sometimes .

here is the piece in the PSU I so efficiently nuked. No idea what it is, no markings on it.

Greeeaaaat

I bet that smelled nice. BTW, you use the same paint on the coin door that you did on the marquee pieces?

[Nephasth]

Pm sent. You sure that's a B board? The schematic shows the B board has an earth ground connection with the AC in. The A board schematic doesn't show an earth ground connection, like what your board looks like.

[Maximus]

There's a sticker on the housing that says its a b I'm just going by that

[Nephasth]

Unplug everything from the psu, except power in, and power it up. By process of elimination (plugging one harness into the board at a time, while turning power off between) you should be able to narrow down what component has the short.

[Maximus]

Will do gotta get some more resisters 1st.

Back to what I do know, building.


Horrible spidered corrosion under the old paint on the coin door


Nuked most of it with half an hour of drill brushing and wire wool.


The same textured paint I used on the marquee retainers. May need a second coat we will see how it dries

[Maximus]

The CP is in good shape. all original parts buttons sticks etc. Apparently the copyright reading only Nintendo is pretty rare so that's cool.


The instruction card didn't pass the test of time so well. I have new CP vinyl, instruction card, bezel retainer sticker and coin stickers coming from Rikitiki to spruce this up a bit

[Maximus]

Nice condition underneath. I wonder what game the extra wires are for in the harness

[Maximus]

The coin door is flattening out nice now

[Maximus]

Yep happy with this

[CoryBee]

Rather impressive griff......

That finish!

[Gamester]

Looking good there Griff, err Daddy, err Maximus...

For the coin slots, is that just silver paint that you refinished them with?

[Maximus]

Yeah its high heat enamel I had lying around

[dandro]

Yeah this is good stuff right here... I really love that finish. I am coming to terms that my cab will def. need a coin door, and it is certainly cheaper to buy a used one in restoration condition.. This confirms it for me, that it can look brilliant!

[Maximus]

For $50 X-Arcade do a brand new metal coin door complete with mech and illuminated coin slot if you want plug n play. I used one on revolution

[dandro]

ahh ok, cool beans, you speak of this one?

http://www.xgaming.com/store/arcade-parts-and-accessories/product/arcade-machine-coin-door-led-coin-mech/

[404]

Something has shorted, any suggestions? Neph do you have a link to the pp7b schematic

Never worked on an arcade board before but judging by the pics, i would check those diodes and the voltage regulator in that immediate area first. You can test the regulator by finding out its voltage using the serial on the unit. then pumping a bit of voltage into it and testing its output.

[Maximus]

ahh ok, cool beans, you speak of this one?

http://www.xgaming.com/store/arcade-parts-and-accessories/product/arcade-machine-coin-door-led-coin-mech/

Yep that's it, only $39 now even better

[Maximus]

You can test the regulator by finding out its voltage using the serial on the unit. then pumping a bit of voltage into it and testing its output.

Thanks I'll try that

[Maximus]

I guess if the voltage regulator is shorted than that's going to start frying things like a George Foreman grill. I'm trying to read the schematic that Neph pointed me toward, I think I missed out on squiggly line reading class

[Maximus]

I 'think' that voltage regulator is BR1 which should be a S4VB40 from the datasheet I found it has the following specs

Io (A) : 4
Vrm (V) : 400
Ifsm (A) : 80
Vf (max) (V) : 1.05
Ir (max) (uA) : 10

and then some chinese symbol with a value of 9?

Not sure how to read these values though, need some schooling here

[welash]

I 'think' that voltage regulator is BR1 which should be a S4VB40 from the datasheet I found it has the following specs

Io (A) : 4
Vrm (V) : 400
Ifsm (A) : 80
Vf (max) (V) : 1.05
Ir (max) (uA) : 10

and then some chinese symbol with a value of 9?

Not sure how to read these values though, need some schooling here

BR1 isn't a voltage regulator, it is a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier.  It basically converts the 120VAC coming in to 120V DC (so be careful if you are poking around in there). Are you sure you have the correct schematic?  I would have expected to see more transformers on the board.  Or are they connected to the white molex connectors on the edges?  If they are connected to the molex connectors.  Make sure to get the correct one connected to the correct place. 

The only way that I could see that resistor burning is if D2 or D7 were shorted (or reversed) or if TR1 or TR3 were stuck (on).  If it is the latter, there could be a problem with one of the 2 switch-mode power supply controllers (ic1 or ic2). 

The switch mode controllers should be turning tr1 and tr3 on and off to create a smaller AC voltage on the secondary side of t1 and t2, that is further regulated before going out.

[Maximus]

BR1 isn't a voltage regulator, it is a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier.  It basically converts the 120VAC coming in to 120V DC (so be careful if you are poking around in there). Are you sure you have the correct schematic?  I would have expected to see more transformers on the board.  Or are they connected to the white molex connectors on the edges?  If they are connected to the molex connectors.  Make sure to get the correct one connected to the correct place. 

The only way that I could see that resistor burning is if D2 or D7 were shorted (or reversed) or if TR1 or TR3 were stuck (on).  If it is the latter, there could be a problem with one of the 2 switch-mode power supply controllers (ic1 or ic2). 

The switch mode controllers should be turning tr1 and tr3 on and off to create a smaller AC voltage on the secondary side of t1 and t2, that is further regulated before going out.

This is why my tiny brain implodes every time I try and comprehend this stuff. I have no idea how i am even going to start troubleshooting this thing 

The board is right, although like neph mentioned it doesn't have the three wire AC input like the 7B schem suggests, it's more like the 7A schem, even though it does say 7B on the outside of the cage. There's is another board in the cage with transformers that attach to this via the molex connectors, they are all different sizes so you cant mix them up

[yotsuya]

Just throw an LCD and a 60-in-1 in that ---smurfette--- and call it a day! 

[Maximus]

Just throw an LCD and a 60-in-1 in that ---smurfette--- and call it a day! 

i was thinking maybe an xbox with a hacked controller, then I can play Call of Duty on it and watch Netflix, all of life's questions and problems answered.

[Nephasth]

Couple of questions... Have got another (or some more) resistor(s) yet? And if so, have you powered it up without any of the outputs connected? Really quick way to find out if it's an issue with your power supply or something else.

[Maximus]

Couple of questions... Have got anoter (or some more) resistors yet? And if so, have you powered it up without any of the outputs connected? Really quick way to find out if it's an issue with your power supply or something else.

Not yet I will have to grab some on the way home from the office tonight. At least I am learning to read the schems a bit while  sitting here at work (gotta love I.T. when it's quiet).

On that subject, doesn't that schem show the power coming in from the left meaning that power will hit that R1 resister after coming through the BR1 Bridge rectifier? Just trying t make sure I am understanding how these things flow.

[Nephasth]

You gotta follow the basic steps of troubleshooting before you go throwing parts at this. Break it all down into systems, then subsystems, then components. If you do it backwards, you'll likely just end up chasing your tail and throwing money at it hoping to fix the problem by changing parts. Isolating your systems will help you determine which subsystem to look at in order to find the problem component. My thought process of my years spent as a mechanic.

[Maximus]

You gotta follow the basic steps of troubleshooting before you go throwing parts at this. Break it all down into systems, then subsystems, then components. If you do it backwards, you'll likely just end up chasing your tail and throwing money at it hoping to fix the problem by changing parts. Isolating your systems will help you determine which subsystem to look at in order to find the problem component. My thought process of my years spent as a mechanic.

Sounds perfectly logical to me, I'll definitely follow that route, my problem is understanding the systems/sub systems. To my earlier question, isn't the AC coming in from the left and hitting R1 way before it gets to the transformers? Also, looking at the 7A schematics I see what you mean, this board really does look like a 7A not a 7B which is even more frustrating when the labels say otherwise. If it were indeed a 7A and I am putting a 2w20 where a 5w22 should be would it fry?

[Maximus]

oh thanks for the answer, while I typed. Now I'm just more confused though

[Nephasth]

Also, looking at the 7A schematics I see what you mean, this board really does look like a 7A not a 7B which is even more frustrating when the labels say otherwise. If it were indeed a 7A and I am putting a 2w20 where a 5w22 should be would it fry?

Check the output side of the board, might be easier to tell that way. The A board has 1 ground on the output side, the B board has 3.

[Maximus]

Check the output side of the board, might be easier to tell that way. The A board has 1 ground on the output side, the B board has 3.

Unless I am misunderstanding (highly likely) the output and input are on the same board. Iniput comes in at the top of the photo I posted and all the output sockets are on the bottom, the black plugs

[Nephasth]

No, those are CONB, CONC, and COND as labelled on the schematic (connectors). So you would check what plugs into those for the number of grounds (terminals or wires).

EDIT: And seeing as how the B board schematic doesn't even have connectors in the diagram, I'd say you have an A board.

[Maximus]

EDIT: And seeing as how the B board schematic doesn't even have connectors in the diagram, I'd say you have an A board.

Hrmmm interesting, ok so back to me question about the 2w20 vs the 5w22. (Thanks for the patience, you really are dealing with a blank slate on this subject)

[Nephasth]

EDIT: And seeing as how the B board schematic doesn't even have connectors in the diagram, I'd say you have an A board.

Hrmmm interesting, ok so back to me question about the 2w20 vs the 5w22. (Thanks for the patience, you really are dealing with a blank slate on this subject)

Very possible. Definitely need to verify what board you have first. Also check the operator manual for a basic diagram (it shows an A board as well).

[welash]

Sounds perfectly logical to me, I'll definitely follow that route, my problem is understanding the systems/sub systems. To my earlier question, isn't the AC coming in from the left and hitting R1 way before it gets to the transformers? Also, looking at the 7A schematics I see what you mean, this board really does look like a 7A not a 7B which is even more frustrating when the labels say otherwise. If it were indeed a 7A and I am putting a 2w20 where a 5w22 should be would it fry?

It might fry when the power supply is loaded, but I would doubt it if you have nothing hooked up to it.  On the other hand, using a 5watt 22 ohm resistor (or 5 watt 20 ohm resistor) in that spot probably wouldn't hurt anything.  If you don't already have a spare fuse, you may want to get a few of those too, you are pulling some pretty good current at the input to burn that resistor, and probably more if you put in a 5 watt resistor. 

And you are correct, the power is coming in from the left of the schematic.  One thing you might try is to not attach the other board with the transformers, and supply power to the board you have shown.  The resistor shouldn't burn out then.  If it does, there must be a short on this board.

[Maximus]

Here's the PP7A pins, looking for the PP7B, as I understand it they have identical pin-outs though so dont think this info will shed any light



Credit to Ken Layton for this info...

Nintendo “Donkey Kong”
Power supply “PP-7A” & “PP-7B”

10 pin connector to Video
1 Brown –5v
2 Red –5v
3 Orange –5v
4 Yellow –5v
5 Green Ground
6 Blue Ground
7 Purple Ground
8 Gray Ground
9 White +5v
10 Black +5v

9 pin connector to CPU
1 Brown Ground
2 Red Ground
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow +12v
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple +5v
8 Gray –5v
9 White +24v (meter)

7 pin connector to sound
1 Brown +16v
2 Red +16v
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow Ground
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple –5v

AC power input is 100 vac

[welash]

Are the 2 big capacitors C6 and C7 or C7 and C8?  From the schematic, they would be 6 and 7 for a B board and 7 and 8 for an A board. If it is an A board, you may want to check those capacitors to see if either is shorted (look for shorts on the PCB, and see if the capacitor is bulging or anything).

[Maximus]

Are the 2 big capacitors C6 and C7 or C7 and C8?  From the schematic, they would be 6 and 7 for a B board and 7 and 8 for an A board. If it is an A board, you may want to check those capacitors to see if either is shorted (look for shorts on the PCB, and see if the capacitor is bulging or anything).

Thanks I'll check them out when I get back home