Restore of a nice Donkey Kong - COMPLETE

[Maximus]

Something isn't adding up about the labeling of that diode, I can't find it anywhere in that 3-leg form factor, as it's 10a 45v can we sub it out for a higher ampage?

[Maximus]

Here's the proper PP7B schematic

[Maximus]

So yep according to this too the part should be CTB-33S a 12A 35V SDPR, not sure what the hell that is that's in there now then.

[Maximus]

Will this do the job, I can get this on the way home... http://www.nteinc.com/specs/6000to6099/pdf/nte6085.pdf

[g0pkh]

Hi
Assuming the package is a TO220
Then yes that would certainly be worth a try.

The CTB33S is rated less than that. So an overrated part is better in most cases.

I couldn't find any info about the c10p048 either.

Obviously be certain you use the original insulators when mounting it.

Pete

[Maximus]

Sounds good I will grab them on the way home.

I'm assuming you are in the UK, so you may be in the land of Nod by the time I start on this tonight. So when I pop all these confirmed components back in place (although I've still yet to properly test SCR1) what should I do from there?

Thanks for all the help, I'm sure I must be absorbing some of this as I go along

[g0pkh]

Hi

Be careful I have just checked the package style for ctb33s it seems to be a TO247 rather than TO220

Does your supplier have any other diodes in this package of a similar rating?


Yeah I am in the UK it's 9:21 here so not in the land of nod just yet   

[Maximus]

Cool, I'm originally from Chester, live in San Diego now though.

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/6000to6099/pdf/nte6091.pdf this seems to be the closest

[g0pkh]

The things  to check once all the parts are back in.

The insulation of all devices from the heatsink (particularly the centre tag)
 

Check for a short circuit across the HT rail (R1 to Gnd)
The collectors of both switching transistors to ground.
Collector to emitter of both switching transistors again looking for short circuits.

I would be surprised if the Scr is faulty but just check it pin to pin all round looking for shorts.

I would actually advise the first test of the PSU be done disconnected from the game board.
If you could connect a lamp across the 5v rail as a load instead. say a car tail lamp bulb

The last thing you want is for a fault to risk adage to the logic board.

From the circuit there appears to be an over voltage trip which will shut down the 5v rail if it goes much above 5.6v

Good luck

Pete

EDIT

Yeah that diode should handle it with ease.

[g0pkh]

Chester eh?

Just north of London for me on the Hertfordshire Essex border
Stansted

[Maximus]

Something I don't understand now that I understand the layout a little.

Why didn't i get any power on any of the pins even 24v 12v and -5v if it was just the +5v rail that was nuked, was that because nothing got past R1?

[g0pkh]

You guys are so lucky over there.
I would kill for the source of Arcade machines you guys have.

I have restored a Rockola jukebox though which was a nice challenge

Pete

[g0pkh]

Something I don't understand now that I understand the layout a little.

Why didn't i get any power on any of the pins even 24v 12v and -5v if it was just the +5v rail that was nuked, was that because nothing got past R1?

That s a good question

I think t likely that R1 failed before the SCR had chance to fire.
Once R1 was open of course then no power would reach either switching transistor.

It's almost as if R1 is there to protect the fuse lol

[Maximus]

ok cool, that's what I was thinking, see I may be learning something  ok well i'll put it all together and test it all tonight and see what happens. If you don;t hear from we again I'll probably be found lying on my garage floor with a chunk of solder shot through my left eyeball.

[g0pkh]

Please be careful

Remember a golden rule about working with electricity. One hand in your pocket.

That was drummed into me many years ago.

Beware bits of flying plastic lol

Been there,done that got the T shirt.

Things seems to go wrong a lot quicker over here with twice the mains voltage though. 

[Maximus]

Things seems to go wrong a lot quicker over here with twice the mains voltage though. 

And all the rain 

[g0pkh]

That's true.
Been a lovely warm day today though

[Maximus]

No joy at Fry's they only had the Nte 6090 which was the T022 package and they were all out of the C2325 clone so I'm going to have to order online

Sanded down the heavy fill primer tonight and then did two coats of regular white primer. Not very exciting stuff

[g0pkh]

That's a shame 

Hopefully the bits wont take too long.

[Maximus]

Final sanding done for the sides. New blue vinyl is arriving today so hopefully by tonight all cab cosmetics will be complete. The black marks on the back of the panel edge are paint from blacking out the back of the cab, not horrible chips lol

[Malenko]

wanna send me the blue that was too short?

[Maximus]

wanna send me the blue that was too short?

What would you use it for?

[yotsuya]

Blue Screen Skin Suit.

[Nephasth]

Blue Screen Skin Suit.

 

Green Man's nemesis!

[Maximus]

Hey Pete,

I was going to order that D9 replacement from Digikey or mouser, having trouble finding a none NTE alternative to the 2sc2535, would be nice if I could get them all at the same place, can you advise on that.

Maybe this for 2sc2535???

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/BUL89/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kAuOt55Alb1Hn0BvgJit9GA%3d

and this for the CTB-33S replacement?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/VS-MBR4045WTPBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fJSNqGZMTeJU2xdAUbkQHOc%3d

and this for the 2w020 R1
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12FR020Evirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-12FR020E

[g0pkh]

Hi

Transistor looks good

Diode looks good ( a bit overkill on the current lol)

Resistor you listed was 0.02 ohms oooops

Look at this one instead
They  don't seem to stock 20 ohms but 18 would do
Mouser Part No:   
660-PCF2C180K

[Malenko]

I'd use it on my "Weecade" kit I got from Haruman. Its currently blank melamine, but I thought abbout wrapping it in the blue and going with white molding and buttons/stick.

[Maximus]

Sure PM me your shipping info and I'll send whatever I have left over when the build is finished.

[Maximus]

Hi

Transistor looks good

Diode looks good ( a bit overkill on the current lol)

Resistor you listed was 0.02 ohms oooops

Look at this one instead
They  don't seem to stock 20 ohms but 18 would do
Mouser Part No:   
660-PCF2C180K

Thanks Pete, parts ordered, will take a few days.

[g0pkh]

On that resistor. You might be wise to beef it up a little and go for the 3w one


Mouser Part No:   
660-HPC3C180K
18ohm 3w flameproof

[Maximus]

On that resistor. You might be wise to beef it up a little and go for the 3w one


Mouser Part No:   
660-HPC3C180K
18ohm 3w flameproof

too late, already ordered, oh well we'll see

[g0pkh]

Never mind I was too late lol

Should be ok though

[Maximus]

Vinyl going on. Thanks Rich for the speedy replacement

[Maximus]

Now if only it played Donkey Kong

[Maximus]

Here's the fancy shots....

[mcseforsale]

Wow.  That looks awesome.  How's the electronical stuff coming?

AJ

[Maximus]

Wow.  That looks awesome.  How's the electronical stuff coming?

Thanks man, I'm still waiting on a replacement supply I bought, or the components to come from Mouser with the hope of fixing the one I assploded. 

[Malenko]

looks so good it almost looks fake. 

[Maximus]

looks so good it almost looks fake. 

Ha that's what I love about these Nintendo cabs, they look like real life cartoon characters themselves

[Maximus]

Looks like the power supply is on the truck for delivery today, so with a little luck we can power everything up and hope that blowing up the last supply didn't do any damage to the boards, also we'll see if all the reseating and cleaning of the socket chips has solved our crashing problem - fingers crossed.