Scratch - Marvel v Capcom: Revolution - Complete with tour video

[rablack97]

damn griff....

just kerosene and burn the whole thing up, slit your wrists, and eat rat poison....


leave him alone, leave him alone 

although i agree, if that tablet is poopy  out the box, i'm now sure how well your modifications to the software are gonna make it any better.  Cheap is good, but quality is better considering what your trying to do with that thing....

As far as the CP, wcndave's suggestions make sense.....but you seem to pride yourself on innovation rather than efficiency, its a cool idea, i've never seen a CP locked in that way....so be it overengineered, it will be a unique way to do it and may benefit another builder that doesnt have access to the back or base for latches...

[yotsuya]

sh*tty

Just write the word and let the auto-censor do it's job. 

[rablack97]

didn't know one existed.....now that i know....let the potty mouthing begin...

[griffindodd]

  you guys are funny. 

[DNA Dan]

The cupholders are officially dead for integration into the main panel. When they arrived the height of the lip on the edge of the holder was too high for my liking, too close to the joystick hand on the player one stick.

Since I called this in reply #463, don't I win the free toaster?

[griffindodd]

Assuming I don't find a way to overcome the lip

[Le Chuck]

but you just don't need them....
to hold BOTH down and sideways... you have a hole in PC [i meant CP of course..], a hole in the board underneath, put a star knob through the holes and tighten.  job done.

If you are not wanting to have the other end of the star knob drop out inside the cab whenever you need to remove it you do the following.

get a normal nut that fits your star knob, let's say it's 16mm across
drill/route a hole halfway through from the bottom say 14mm
push the nut in the hole as much as you can, apply some epoxy (just to stop it falling out, not to stop it turning) and then insert and tighten the star knob from the other side.
this will draw the bolt into the hole and create a hexagon hole.

then you can just bolt it down using the star knobs, and remove when you like.

easy peasy

woodworking i know ;-)

So instead of precisely fitting everything and having a nice looking and stable solution your answer is to ratchet some nuts directly into the wood destroying the surrounding grain and creating future points of failure?

Yep, you know your wood working alright 

Was there a reason you came in after Griff had already done the work and recommended that he rip it all out and do it your way other than hubris?

[rablack97]

Welcome back welcome back welcome baaaaaccckkkk...

[griffindodd]

Slow progress tonight, I had planned to get a lot done but for some reason things just crawled along.

Wiring up the LED lights for the dust washers.


Positioning the tablet for measurements to route the inlay channel


The tablet is pretty decent for what I paid, snappy and bright, the dual core makes a lot of difference. Screen is responsive, connects quickly to WiFi and generally seems fine. It's not an IPS screen so you cant view it while lying down under the cabinet, but it's perfectly good for this application.

[wcndave]

So instead of precisely fitting everything and having a nice looking and stable solution your answer is to ratchet some nuts directly into the wood destroying the surrounding grain and creating future points of failure?

Yep, you know your wood working alright 

Was there a reason you came in after Griff had already done the work and recommended that he rip it all out and do it your way other than hubris?

No need for that attitude. 

In fact I was suggesting the BEST solution, given that Griff seems to have a passion for perfection which i happen to admire.

In woodworking this is a tried and tested technique.

You would certainly NOT drill a hole through a dowel, that is likely to be far weaker and cause a mess.

IMHO this much work for stability is overkill.  Dowel alone is fine.  If he wants the star knobs, then great, however do it right and replace the previous  idea with a better one, don't try and mash the two together.

I used the exact technique when I made this cherry and walnut sewing box as a wedding present for my wife.  The inside fixings for the cantilever arms are embedded in the wood.  If you think this causes stresses or weaknesses in the wood then you clearly don't know how it works.



I am sorry that Griff's excellent thread is getting hijacked by ignorants who don't want to listen to better advice and trollishly claim to know it all, when others are trying to help Griff create a work of perfection (although he seems to do pretty well alone!)




Griff, the only reason I can see that might actually stop you from wanting to drill them out is if they are just too big, however that was not clear from the pictures.  if the dowel is > 14mm you might find the hole left over is too big.  If it is 10-14 you could use some washers, which i would recommend in any case.

[Typefighter01]

Griff, glad to hear the tablet is going to work for you.

I am sorry that Griff's excellent thread is getting hijacked by ignorants who don't want to listen to better advice and trollishly claim to know it all, when others are trying to help Griff create a work of perfection (although he seems to do pretty well alone!)

In 20 pages of this post I didn't witness any "ignorants who trollishly claim to know it all". Everyone who posts here is trying to help Griff build the baddest cab he can (some ideas better than others). Both techniques for mounting the CP will work, but it is already done, no need to "beat a dead arcade cab".

I do like your sewing box, you obviously know woodworking (insert olive branch here) .

[wcndave]

Olive's accepted ;-)

However note that from this point, Griff has 2 options: 1, try to drill a (he said) threaded hole directly through the middle of a fixed dowel, and then put what is basically a bolt through it.  or 2, happily drill out the dowel and put a bolt through.  so it's not just "what is done is done", it's what will be easier going forward.

I do hope I get as much help on my cab, although it's going to be far less fancy, and I hope far far less expensive.. I think looking at the first port where this stuff is being updated, it's nearly $3k now?

[BadMouth]

I had planned to get a lot done but for some reason things just crawled along.

That's been my story for the past four months. 

[rablack97]

That's a nice piece.



It's hard to give advice when the project is not in front of you, all advice is welcomed in this thread by griff as far as i know.  Yet, bottom line Griff has a direct line of sight to his project, so he knows what will work and won't.  Or what he want's to mess with etc.

Trust me i've thrown out ideas to him, and got a meh, go back to your hole peasant.  Others, he might not of directly used, but it it triggered a light bulb to something great.

So throwing out ideas is always great.

If you read the entire thread LeChuck is moody and is the alter ego of PinballJim in BYOAC, they just don't like too many people.

They both crack me up though and that's how you should take it, man up, don't get your feelings hurt.

That photo you posted basically said.....   i know my stuff....

Anywho.....who cares how the damn thing is mounted, get to the Led stuff, i'm over here with notebook trying to learn and were talking about drillng holes in the nips griff put into his CP.

Move it along move it along....

[wcndave]

[[ insert thumbs up emoticon here ]]

[rablack97]

excuse my laziness, can you tell me why you chose the pac64 over the ledwiz for your led controller?

[griffindodd]

Hiya ladies, looks like you have all been having a nice chin-wag. While you were all clucking away, I did what I usually do when the girls get together, went to the garage and did some work 

Routed out the screen area of the tablet placement so I could use it as a pattern for the acrylic (not going to make that mistake again)


After cutting and chamferring the acrylic I routed out the exterior shape of the tablet and here we go...




Of course being still pretty new to routing I managed to fluff up one of the corners, but I think I can clean it up with some gentle hand work. Overall I am very happy with the way this has turned out to this point. I still have to put in a slot from the back for the power/usb cord and a 'finger' hole behind the top of the tab to make it easy to pull out.

@Wcndave - That sewing box is beautiful. Thanks for the advice. Yeah the dowels are 3/4" diameter and my platform where the controller rests is only 5/8" thick and hollow underneath. The dowels are glued into that and protrude a good inch or more into the dark abyss below the platform. I have 1/2" diameter insert nuts that are 25mm long that I plan to drop into the center of the dowels, which I will cut down to 1/4" below the flush line of the box base, I'm doing this because the neck of the black plastic knobs is 1/4" long and 5/8" in diameter, so when screwed down the outer diameter of the knob will be flush with the box base. This probably isn't the 'right' way to do it, but I think it will work well.

Very little about this cab build has been orthodox, and the creative/stubborn/smart ass/idiot/mad scientist in me kinda likes it that way. I'd much rather be known for my creativity than my ultra precise craftsmanship and deep knowledge of technique (although knowing that stuff would be great too, and I am learning a lot along the way.)

I enjoy everyone's comments, advice, critisicms and ideas, just don't expect me to take much notice of a lot of it, WCNDave pretty much nailed my personality on the head when he said I get a laser sight view of where I'm going and then I just go. MCSE pointed out that I suffer from feature creep, I certainly hope I do, because that means I am evolving as I work toward my goal, hopefully staying creative and open minded enough to never dismiss a wild idea. But I would also argue that I stick very closely to my final vision too, I don't think anyone can say this cab hasn't hit all the goals I first set out in my OP (except for cupholders).

You guys are awesome, keep the comedy coming, if it wasn't for all the people who actively post in this thread I KNOW I wouldn't be as far along in this mammoth project as I am today.

[DNA Dan]

Hiya ladies, looks like you have all been having a nice chin-wag.

Sewing box and all !!

My vote is for bolts. I used flat allen bolt and you can't even tell they are there. Best of all it's flat inside the box with no knob sticking up. See reply #76 photos 5,6. in my thread here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,110471.40.html

[griffindodd]

Any of you master craftsmen got a technique for building up that corner on the acrylic rather than sanding it even further away to get it right? Of course the last cut I do in a fully finished piece is the one that borks up.

[griffindodd]

Any of you master craftsmen got a technique for building up that corner on the acrylic rather than sanding it even further away to get it right?

Aaaaaaand the chirping of the crickets is deafening.

Found this $4 solution if I can't clean up that edge properly. If you can't cut a clean edge, trim that biotch!!!

[griffindodd]

Nuff said

[CoryBee]

play this ^^^^ on mute and rock lobster.....you wont be disappointed

[rablack97]

so lost so lost...as to why you even posted that...

[griffindodd]

Sometimes I like to post Japanese 8-Bit pop in random places,makes me happy.

[rablack97]

excuse my laziness, can you tell me why you chose the pac64 over the ledwiz for your led controller?

Well just F me and my question huh?   

[griffindodd]

Lol. I got it in a batch of used gear

[rablack97]

Are you using....12v leds in your buttons or 5v...

[rablack97]

hey is your t-molding flush with your laminate.....

I think you ordered vertical which is .7 or 1/32 in thickness.

If your using the thinner 1/32, does your t-molding stand a bit proud on your laminate edges?

The detail from the guy on ebay says the 5 sheets are .7 which is 1/32 not 1/16

 This bid is for 5 sheets of 4' x 8' of Black laminate that matches Wilsonart black 1595.

This is a vertical laminate. The thickness is .7mm and is great for furniture but not recommended for countertops.

Thanks for looking and have a great day.

From epyx's tutorial, if you used 5/8 mdf for your sides your would need the thicker 1/16 laminate on both sides and 3/4" t-molding to make sure everything is flush.

The last item to consider is T Molding. I have been successful using 5/8" MDF for the sides of my cabinet and Control Panels with 3/4" T Molding and 1/16" Laminate.  Using these pieces and the techniques above you can get a nice flush trim so that your T molding covers flush to the edges of your T Molding.  This also applies to Control Panels with Plexi/Laminate:




I'm was looking into getting this some of this stuff, but want to make sure i'm ordering the right thickness.

He sells 1 sheet of the standard 1/16 for 50.00 bucks,  but with higher shipping, probably due to the weight....

[Brian74]

This thing has come a long way! I like how you think outside the box!! Have a link for that tablet? Im looking to get one and mold it into where my stereo is in my Ranger.

[griffindodd]

So who's stupid idea was it to make every damn button and joystick on this thing RGB?? 


I pulled an all nighter on Friday and sat up until 4am wiring up the CP so I could have the cab playable for a party we threw on Saturday. It was a huge success, it was great watching my friends wandering backwards and forwards to it during the night firing up everything from Gorf to Mortal Combat to Spy Hunter. 

As far as the build is concerned I am calling this complete. There are a few bits and pieces to do here and there but nothing worth posting about, troubleshooting a few LEDs, software config etc. I have updated the OP with a few beauty shots of the finished cab, I'll update those as I get the button lighting tweeked and take some nicer shots.

Thanks for everyone's encouragement and help, without this thread I know the cab would not have turned out as great as it did and it would probably still be a half finished pile of wood in my garage.

Joel 

[griffindodd]

hey is your t-molding flush with your laminate.....

Mine sits flush perfectly, I used the vertical laminate from eBay. The thing I noticed though is that 3/4" t-molding from different places can actually vary a fair bit in size, I guess all 3/4" is not the same. Mine is from t-molding.com and fits great on 5/8 mdf double laminated and then one side with vinyl wrapped behind the t-mold.

[griffindodd]

This thing has come a long way! I like how you think outside the box!! Have a link for that tablet? Im looking to get one and mold it into where my stereo is in my Ranger.

Hi Brian, thanks man, it's taken a lot of work but I'm very happy with the outcome. Here's a link for that tablet...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OO41P4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

[wol-nz]

Nice work - i enjoyed the entire build. Looking forward to the next one 

[jmike]

       
     
Well done Griffin,
                          amazing work. Really love the way this turned out. Hope you and the family enjoy it for many years.


                          

[Le Chuck]

Griff - looking fantastic.  I know you have a lot left to do under the hood but this has come so far and has been a pleasure to watch come together.  Thanks for such thorough documentation of everything, I've learned a lot, and keep it up man! 

LeChuck is moody

Fair cop 

[mcseforsale]

Yes, very very cool.  I still don't know what the tablet is there for.  But, it looks cool.

AJ

[Nephasth]

Looks good!

Saw your expense list...

Pretty sweet that it doubles as a nice VP!

[griffindodd]

Thanks guys, we had a blast playing it over the weekend. I had a moment of deep joy when I was standing there playing Gorf while behind me some of our best friends and family were singing Karaoke on the TV, all this in my living room - great times and many more to come.

Once I have the tablet all configured and LED blinky set up etc etc I will do a full video walk through of it in action.

[wp34]

That sure turned out great.  My favorite use of a rotating monitor ever.   

Nice work!

[Seith]

Amazing build!  One of the builds where I feel like I want to see more video of it in action after it's done!  Any chance you could post a new video a month of some gameplay on this badboy?