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Author Topic: The Smash Pad - kittens and cleaning and stools - oh my!  (Read 23229 times)

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Seith

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The Smash Pad - kittens and cleaning and stools - oh my!
« on: March 13, 2012, 11:31:45 pm »
So in early 2009 I got a new job in a new town away from friends, family, and loved ones.  At the time I had no idea how long I would be away from them, and wanted to take on a hobby to keep my mind off of things.  I became interested in building my own arcade machine from scratch, and here I am now, three years later, back in my home town with an even better job, my own place, and the drive is greater than ever.  So great that i've set the woodcut date for the end of April (weather pending, i'm in Northern Ontario so you never know).  I've spent the little spare time I have had tweaking the frontend and fine-tuning the lists.  One thing I wanted to do with this project to set it apart from others is to have a well-curated list of PC games.  I have found it quite surprising how many arcade-ready PC games there are out there nowadays, what with the indie game scene doing what it is doing.  That arcade feel seems to have come back to PC video games in a large way, with keen-minded developers keeping an eye on the past for their inspiration.

I have also been toying around with ideas for the graphic design portion of the project.  I'm no digital picasso, so I have been studying the designs for marquees and CPOs that "work" on these forums and culling elements from their design for use in my own.  I have created a logo which I will be getting done in vinyl adhesive for the sides.  Here it is on a blank Marquee template:

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9531/rect3229.png

As you can see, the marquee needs a lot more than just a plain logo smack-dab in the middle.  I have been toying with the idea of a blue burst on black background, but don't know how that will translate visually when backlit.  Suggestions would be much appreciated!

Cost sheet so far:



Pics!




















































 :angry:





Looking for input on the best way to install angle clips in the cab without having boltheads poking out of the sides.  I have already applied laminate and can't recess the heads into the cab walls from the outside and cover them.  Suggestions?  Or am I just going to have to suck it up and add boltheads to the outside?



« Last Edit: May 02, 2013, 06:14:31 am by Seith »

Seith

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As far as CPO inspirations, I really like jimmy2x2x's:



as well as the simple lines of Ryglore's Shmup! CPO:



Something simple that took both of these designs into consideration would be my ideal CPO.  I've been puttering about in Inkscape trying to come up with something.  Will post it once it's a bit more final.

EDIT:  I also like the simple look of the Terminus CPO:



As far as buttons and joys go, mine will basically be the same as the Terminus (red on left, blue on right, black bat-tops) but minus the spinner.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 11:56:54 pm by Seith »

Seith

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jimmy2x2x

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Looking good, I would consider lowering the trackball down a couple of inches to give you a little more operating room when you are slapping the trackball - nothing worse than slamming your hand into a joystick!

Seith

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Great idea.  I would have to do some modifications to the measurement of the box.  Something like this?


Le Chuck

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+1 to moving the trackball down.  Also, that panel is a monster, 32+ inches?  Is that your cabinet width or are you going to be overhanging the sides? 

Seith

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+1 to moving the trackball down.  Also, that panel is a monster, 32+ inches?  Is that your cabinet width or are you going to be overhanging the sides? 

I have a 27" television screen I am putting into the cab, which I have planned around leaving in it's case.  As a result, my cab is pretty wide.  The control panel will not have any overhang.

I don't mind the width, although bringing it in on the sides would make it easier to fit down the stairs (as it is I have measured and I have about 2 inches clearance total on the sides).

jimmy2x2x

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Not sure if the last pic is to scale, if it is the angle may be a little steep although this is very much personal preference.

Reducing the angle of the sloped top will allow more freedom in placing the trackball.

Green Giant

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Great idea.  I would have to do some modifications to the measurement of the box.  Something like this?
Yes, that is what you want to do.  Notice how the Terminus panel you linked has the TB lower than everything else.  This is primarily incase you do any type of goldentee game where heavy spins happen.  Since you won't be angling the monitor like golden tee dedicateds, you will want to give as much follow through space as possible.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

grtcdnbvr

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I would like to just add that I put a 27" tube tv in mine and the extra weight and width made it fit through only one doorway (which was all i needed).
But dealing with stairs would have been all but impossible.

Green Giant

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I would like to just add that I put a 27" tube tv in mine and the extra weight and width made it fit through only one doorway (which was all i needed).
But dealing with stairs would have been all but impossible.
How much extra space are you guys leaving in your cabs?

I have a 27" in my cab and it fits through everything.  I think my cab is right at 27.5" wide.  I basically designed the width of the cab to barely.....just barely fit the tv.  I think standard door width is 30".  Also my tv is still in it's original case.  I see no reason why a cab can't hold a 27" tv with speakers on the bottom and still fit just fine.  It is a pet peeve of mine to have cabinets with monitors that are too small.  I think a cab should be designed to hold a monitor instead of finding a monitor to fit in a cab.



After thinking about it I would say make that control panel overhang the sides a bit.  Also make it removable. 
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

Seith

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This is how it looks currently in Google Sketchup:


Seith

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I could build the box out so that the bottom lip of the box matches the angles of the control panel itself which would allow for me to put the trackball VERY low, but I don't think I have the tools to be able to do angled joints like that.  What kind of tool does cuts like that?

EDIT:  was able to bring down the trackball some without having to mod the box at all.  There is currently a 9" clearance between the top of the ball and the runner.



Also, I was mistaken - there is a bit of overhang on the left and right sides.  I hope to make the box in such a way that it can be removed for transportation.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2012, 06:14:56 pm by Seith »

jimmy2x2x

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Looks comfortable to me

I have 8 3/4" clearance between the top of the ball and runner, 6" from edge of ball to right hand stick.

Plenty comfortable for me, my hand is 8 1/2" from finger tip to base of palm.


Green Giant

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I could build the box out so that the bottom lip of the box matches the angles of the control panel itself which would allow for me to put the trackball VERY low, but I don't think I have the tools to be able to do angled joints like that.  What kind of tool does cuts like that?

EDIT:  was able to bring down the trackball some without having to mod the box at all.  There is currently a 9" clearance between the top of the ball and the runner.

Also, I was mistaken - there is a bit of overhang on the left and right sides.  I hope to make the box in such a way that it can be removed for transportation.
If you have a circular saw you can create the box like you are talking about.  I did that when I built my control panel, and all my dad had was a regular circular saw.  So long as the outside edges fit it doesn't matter if the panels meet 100% perfect.  Noone will see it and it will still be insanely sturdy.

As for attaching the CP to the arcade, I did a very simple fix.  Drilled 2 holes into the bottom of the CP through the piece of MDF in the picture.  I have some tee nuts on the underside of the board permanently holding the really big bolts.  Then I just hand tighten the wingnuts to hold down the CP.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

Unstupid

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I could build the box out so that the bottom lip of the box matches the angles of the control panel itself which would allow for me to put the trackball VERY low, but I don't think I have the tools to be able to do angled joints like that.  What kind of tool does cuts like that?

It's probably easiest to do with a miter saw.

Seith

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So for now I think I am going to leave the box under the CP as-is.

Here is the updated measurements of the control panel (click for large):



I also had my first order come in a few weeks ago.  Here it is (with some buttons mounted into a cardboard box to get a feel for the button angling):



You'll have to excuse the crappy cellphone pics, I hope to have access to a better camera later on in the build.



The measurements on these aren't perfect, I did it more just to get a feel for the button layout.  Not sure i'm entirely happy with this, although it may feel different on the actual CP as opposed to this small box.

I have another order coming from divemaster127's online store which includes the joysticks, coin door, and other assorted things.

Here is the running total so far (I am canadian, so the order cost after conversion from USD is on the far right of the total)

« Last Edit: March 17, 2012, 01:39:47 pm by Seith »

eds1275

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I have 2 machines that I'm building, and neither of them have a bottom on the control panel [both of mine panels fit between the sides of the machines]. I see yours sits on top, but that doesn't mean it can't just have a lip for support and be open in the middle of the bottom.

Seith

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So here is the .svg file (done in inkscape) of the marquee as it stands so far... thinking I may just leave it white with the logo in the middle, not sure what to do with all the white space  :dunno

http://www1.zippyshare.com/v/34337642/file.html

Seith

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Got another order in on Monday - U360s arrived, i'm so excited to start this project now!   :applaud:

I got the optional hard springs and long shafts, as well as octagonal restrictors, and yet I still seem to have a little bit of wiggle in the centre position.  Sometimes when I leave the stick alone in analog mode, it is centred perfectly, other times it's off almost to the point of entering another hitbox.  I put it in 8-way mode and played with the wiggle and at one point I had the joystick sending a down-right signal... any way to remedy this?

Seith

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So I just realized now that I totally ordered the wrong joystick mounting kits from divemaster - I specified two sets of the 6mm mag-stik mounting kits instead of the 5mm - which clearly says "FOR ALL OTHER JOYSTICKS"   :banghead:

Good thing I still have t-molding to order down the line, I guess i'll just have to bite the bullet on that one...

Le Chuck

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So I just realized now that I totally ordered the wrong joystick mounting kits from divemaster - I specified two sets of the 6mm mag-stik mounting kits instead of the 5mm - which clearly says "FOR ALL OTHER JOYSTICKS"   :banghead:

Good thing I still have t-molding to order down the line, I guess i'll just have to bite the bullet on that one...

You can get all those parts at a Home Depot or Lowes, they are commonly used for furniture construction... if you don't want to do an additional order just for the kit. 

lordnacho

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I see you have the u360's with button harness and an ipac2.  Just curious why you are doing that

Seith

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I see you have the u360's with button harness and an ipac2.  Just curious why you are doing that

I read that you could have the U360 hooked up via USB as an analog stick that is programmable on the fly as well as have it work as an input on the IPAC2

I am planning on running some PC games on my cab that are keyboard-only, hence the need for both

Of course now that the parts are in, I have some more setup on the software side to do to see if I actually need both means of control.  If it ends up that I stick with just the U360s, I may use the IPAC2 for a future project.

Seith

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So I just realized now that I totally ordered the wrong joystick mounting kits from divemaster - I specified two sets of the 6mm mag-stik mounting kits instead of the 5mm - which clearly says "FOR ALL OTHER JOYSTICKS"   :banghead:

Good thing I still have t-molding to order down the line, I guess i'll just have to bite the bullet on that one...

You can get all those parts at a Home Depot or Lowes, they are commonly used for furniture construction... if you don't want to do an additional order just for the kit. 

Nice, thanks for the tip!  I was hoping that would be the case.

Seith

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So I just realized now that I totally ordered the wrong joystick mounting kits from divemaster - I specified two sets of the 6mm mag-stik mounting kits instead of the 5mm - which clearly says "FOR ALL OTHER JOYSTICKS"   :banghead:

Good thing I still have t-molding to order down the line, I guess i'll just have to bite the bullet on that one...

You can get all those parts at a Home Depot or Lowes, they are commonly used for furniture construction... if you don't want to do an additional order just for the kit. 

Nice, thanks for the tip!  I was hoping that would be the case.

So I managed to make it out to Home Depot yesterday after work.  Asked one of the guys there about the mounting kit I was looking for, even brought the 6mm one in, asked if they had any in 5mm, they pointed me to the local Fastenal store.  "If anyone has it, it'll be them"

Dropped into Fastenal today over lunch and they said they don't carry metric parts, and don't even have the bits that screw into the wood in any size!  They also said they usually only carry specialty parts in big orders (100 is the minimum of something they will sell) and pointed me to Canadian Tire.  The journey continues...

Also, looking to fasten some .187" female quick disconnects to the ends of the wire harness I ordered with my U360s... can't seem to find any info on what gauge wiring it is though, any help?

Crono22

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Ace hardware stores have the fastener's you need... at least mine did

Le Chuck

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I'm really sorry if I sent you on a wild goose chase man.  I do remember that I switched my mounting hardware over to 1/4 inch because it was easier to come by.  I find that half the time the HD employees have no idea what is on their shelves anyway.  I hope you come up with your parts.   

Seith

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I'm really sorry if I sent you on a wild goose chase man.  I do remember that I switched my mounting hardware over to 1/4 inch because it was easier to come by.  I find that half the time the HD employees have no idea what is on their shelves anyway.  I hope you come up with your parts.   

Would 1/4-inch work for the mounting plates on the U360's?

eds1275

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Re: The Smash Pad - Dr. Seith, Parts Hunter
« Reply #29 on: March 29, 2012, 04:50:46 pm »
So you're in Canada and your parts place doesn't carry metric? Canadian tire has a decent selection usually of metric bits.

Seith

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Re: The Smash Pad - Dr. Seith, Parts Hunter
« Reply #30 on: March 30, 2012, 08:15:59 am »
So you're in Canada and your parts place doesn't carry metric? Canadian tire has a decent selection usually of metric bits.

Go figure, eh?

I went to canadian tire and they had the bolt I needed, but not the bit that goes in the wood that the bolt screws into.  Today's journey:  Ace Hardware, Rona, and some larger locals.

Also still wondering what gauge wire comes on the wiring harness for the U360s and if it's possible to get a .187" female quick disconnect that will fit wire that thin.

eds1275

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Re: The Smash Pad - Dr. Seith, Parts Hunter
« Reply #31 on: March 30, 2012, 10:46:26 am »
So you're in Canada and your parts place doesn't carry metric? Canadian tire has a decent selection usually of metric bits.

Go figure, eh?

I went to canadian tire and they had the bolt I needed, but not the bit that goes in the wood that the bolt screws into.  Today's journey:  Ace Hardware, Rona, and some larger locals.

Also still wondering what gauge wire comes on the wiring harness for the U360s and if it's possible to get a .187" female quick disconnect that will fit wire that thin.

I dunno what wire guage it is, but you can always fold it back over itself to bulk it up in the crimp area.

Seith

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Re: The Smash Pad - Dr. Seith, Parts Hunter
« Reply #32 on: March 31, 2012, 12:39:52 pm »
So you're in Canada and your parts place doesn't carry metric? Canadian tire has a decent selection usually of metric bits.

Go figure, eh?

I went to canadian tire and they had the bolt I needed, but not the bit that goes in the wood that the bolt screws into.  Today's journey:  Ace Hardware, Rona, and some larger locals.

Also still wondering what gauge wire comes on the wiring harness for the U360s and if it's possible to get a .187" female quick disconnect that will fit wire that thin.

I dunno what wire guage it is, but you can always fold it back over itself to bulk it up in the crimp area.

Yeah, either that or I could always solder the ends to them.

So yesterday I decided to "play dumb" and walked back into Home Depot with a U360 in hand and said "fit something to this" and the guys there ended up hooking me up with what I needed.



Also picked up a crimper, some wire, and the female quick disconnects.



The plan is to route the wood down from the top and drill a 6mm hole for the bolt to go through from the bottom.  Then I will have it thread through the large washer and the nut will fasten it to the board from the top.  The whole business will be covered by the artwork, and then protected by the plexiglass.  Boom, under-mounted joystick without any unsightly bolt heads showing.

« Last Edit: March 31, 2012, 03:35:56 pm by Seith »

Seith

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Re: The Smash Pad - Dr. Seith, Parts Hunter
« Reply #33 on: April 24, 2012, 10:49:56 pm »
Just updated the control panel layout, using the slagcoin astro city button layout.

« Last Edit: April 24, 2012, 10:51:54 pm by Seith »

Seith

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Re: The Smash Pad - Getting Inkscape on my hands
« Reply #34 on: April 24, 2012, 10:53:04 pm »
Also finalized the marquee.  Settling on this took a lot longer than I had hoped it would take.  Overall I am happy with it though.



Next steps are to purchase the wood and get it to my dad's place for cutting, and finish the CPO art.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2012, 10:54:52 pm by Seith »

Seith

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Re: The Smash Pad - Getting Inkscape on my hands
« Reply #35 on: April 26, 2012, 12:03:17 pm »
Couldn't wait, wired up the trackball to play with it check to make sure it works:


Cut off the Molex end and stripped the wires


Screw terminals = so easy, a caveman could do it...


The finished wire-job.  Put both +5s and GNDs in the same terminal.  Wired it up and i'm happy to say it works like a charm!

ArcadeSeeker962

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Re: The Smash Pad - Getting Inkscape on my hands
« Reply #36 on: April 28, 2012, 01:23:12 pm »
I like the set-up you chose, it looks really neat. I know this varies on skill, but did you experience any lag with the push buttons at all? I was just wondering, because for me and my father's MAME cabinet, I would like to consider using that style for push buttons.

Seith

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Re: The Smash Pad - Getting Inkscape on my hands
« Reply #37 on: April 30, 2012, 08:24:28 am »
The pushbuttons have no lag, no.  Unless you are talking about the lag experienced by rapid-fire pressing, in which case if that is your cup of gaming tea leaf-switches would be better-suited.  But no, when a button is pressed, it registers immediately.

ArcadeSeeker962

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Re: The Smash Pad - Getting Inkscape on my hands
« Reply #38 on: April 30, 2012, 09:42:17 am »
The pushbuttons have no lag, no.  Unless you are talking about the lag experienced by rapid-fire pressing, in which case if that is your cup of gaming tea leaf-switches would be better-suited.  But no, when a button is pressed, it registers immediately.

Okay, thank you for the information. I was wondering about leaf-switches for my control panel, so thank you for the advice.

Seith

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Re: The Smash Pad - Getting Inkscape on my hands
« Reply #39 on: May 04, 2012, 02:05:42 pm »
Will be decasing my television tonight to allow for the cab to be brought in some on the sides.  Pics to follow.