Author Topic: Rotating monitor construction Project finished (Read 80425 times)

DaOld Man · « **Reply #160 on:** February 10, 2008, 02:51:32 pm »

Thanks CC..
The one on the lower right is the view you would get if playing games with the monitor turned vertical.
People should realize this before they place an order for one.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #161 on:** February 10, 2008, 08:48:30 pm »

This weekend I made a trip to Home Depot and bought a 6" lazy susan bearing.
Cost: $4.91.
I also picked up a 72" length of 1/4"X20 threaded rod. $2.74

Link to the bearing

Here is a pic:

DaOld Man · « **Reply #162 on:** March 21, 2008, 01:14:34 pm »

Bumped to dust off the moth balls.. (Do moths have balls?)

Anyway, I hooked up my isolator board to test a mala plugin for Loadman that he is developing.
I got the fever again. This project must be finished!
I have some time off from work next week, so I plan to cut out the circles of mdf that i plan to mount the monitor to.

I am going to have to rewire my isolator board. I need the inputs powered on all the time so I can use loadman's plugin to start the mala screen rotated with the monitor position on startup.

Still need bearings or rollers. May go with cheap roller skate wheels.

Zobeid · « **Reply #163 on:** March 21, 2008, 02:01:20 pm »

Quote from: Cornchip on February 07, 2008, 03:32:31 pm

I looked at the LCD I have at work this morning. Nothing wrong with it horizontal. Rotate it and it's not bad 15 degrees to the right (facing the screen) and washing out immeadiately as you go left. I honestly didn't think this was a problem. Worth checking out if your LCD views decently when rotated.

Note....the LCD that I have is a LG 1918S. I wouldn't recommend it for this use.

I looked up the specs on that monitor, they say viewing angle 160 degrees horizontal, 160 degrees vertical. Looking at those numbers I would never have imagined viewing angle could possibly be a problem. Are the official viewing angle specs for monitors basically worthless for our purposes, then?

The one I've had my eye on is rated: up 80deg, dn 75deg, lt 80deg, rt 80deg.

For whatever it's worth, my ancient Apple Cinema Display has excellent viewing range in all directions. I can rotate it (using a special stand I had made) and it's no problem. I had sort of naively assumed that LCD viewing angles were a long-ago solved problem.

csa3d · « **Reply #164 on:** March 22, 2008, 07:48:43 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on March 21, 2008, 01:14:34 pm

Still need bearings or rollers. May go with cheap roller skate wheels.

I've been in the garage since Friday since I had off. The roller skate wheel bearing trick is where it's at! I've got updates coming, but I want to ensure everything works before posting.. stay tuned

-csa

DaOld Man · « **Reply #165 on:** March 22, 2008, 11:49:16 pm »

Today i picked up a skateboard bearing set at Toys R us for around 12 US bucks.
It is 8 bearings and 4 sleeves. Probably wont use the sleeves.

danny_galaga · « **Reply #166 on:** March 25, 2008, 05:14:10 am »

bearings worked well in my situation (",)

javeryh · « **Reply #167 on:** March 25, 2008, 09:20:55 am »

Quote from: csa3d on March 22, 2008, 07:48:43 pm

Quote from: DaOld Man on March 21, 2008, 01:14:34 pm
Still need bearings or rollers. May go with cheap roller skate wheels.

I've been in the garage since Friday since I had off. The roller skate wheel bearing trick is where it's at! I've got updates coming, but I want to ensure everything works before posting.. stay tuned

-csa

I can't wait to take a look at what you've done!

DaOld Man · « **Reply #168 on:** March 26, 2008, 08:18:35 pm »

Ok, I made a rig to allow my router to cut out the circles I need for my rotating project.

First I laid out my dimensions.
I marked the holes for the lazy susan bearing, and the 4 holes for the monitor to bolt to. And of course a center hole.
I stacked the marked board on top of another.
I then drilled a 1/4" hole in the center through both boards. I then ran a 1/4" carriage bolt through both.
Counter sunk a hole in top board for 1/4" nut.
I also drilled the holes for the lazy susan bearing through both, installed 4 screws in the holes to fasten the two boards together. Counter sunk the screws in the top board.

heres another shot of the lazy susan bearing. The nail marks one of the monitor mounting spots.

Next a got a piece of mdf wide enough to mount the router to.
It was actually about 1-1/2" wider than the base of the router.
I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center, then stuck the router bit through the hole.

Next I marked the base of the router.

Next I routed out about 1/4" so the router can set down into the wood. base is pretty snug.
I then mounted two 3/4" conduit clamps to hold the base of the router. The 1/4" bolts for the clamps are counter sunk on the other side of the wood.
I then bored out the router bit hole to 1-1/4". This gives more room for dust to get out.

The router clamped to the wood.

Next I flipped the rig over and marked the location of the inside edge of the router bit.
This will give me a reference to measure my circle's radius.
Notice how the conduit clamp bolts are counter sunk.

Next I measured from the inside side of the router bit to get my mark for the pivot hole.
My circle needs to be 23" diameter, so I measured 11.5" radius.

Ok, rig is mounted to the board to be cut.
It pivots good. Im happy.

First cut is finished. I went about a 1/4" deep first. Vacuumed the slot and allowed router bit to cool.

Three passes later and Im done with my first circle. Measures exactly 23" diameter.

Now, first cut on the bottom piece.
This circle will be in the back of the monitor, and the lazy susan bearing will mount to it.
The scrap I had wasnt enough to make two complete pieces. This circle will have a flat spot. I may not be able to make it work, if not, I will have to buy a new sheet of mdf and cut another one.

Here are both pieces finished. Mickey seems pleased.

Next: Got to cut out the monitor hole in the first piece.

I like the circle cutting jig. Its got a special place on the wall of my shed. i know I will be using it again.

Edited for spelling and grammar.

psychotech · « **Reply #169 on:** March 26, 2008, 09:05:03 pm »

Looking really good!

Keep up the good work.. You know I will (and we'll) be watching you

Nice!

csa3d · « **Reply #170 on:** March 26, 2008, 10:39:29 pm »

Pretty fancy jig there! What kind/size of router bit were you using for this? Looks like you have a plunge router, no? Not yet sure what method I'm going to use for my fixed router

Yay for all the rotating projects happening right now! Go go go!

-csa

DaOld Man · « **Reply #171 on:** March 26, 2008, 10:55:17 pm »

Quote from: csa3d on March 26, 2008, 10:39:29 pm

Pretty fancy jig there! What kind/size of router bit were you using for this? Looks like you have a plunge router, no? Not yet sure what method I'm going to use for my fixed router Yay for all the rotating projects happening right now! Go go go!
-csa

Thanks!
Yes, it is a Black & Decker 1-1/2 HP plunge router. Very handy.
I used a 1/4" straight cut router bit. It left a 1/4" space between the circle and the panel.
It would have been better if I had a smaller bit, but I didnt.

javeryh · « **Reply #172 on:** March 27, 2008, 10:13:04 am »

Very nice job! I did what you did but upsidedown (but got the same results)!

I mounted a piece of MDF to my router base. Then I mounted it upsidedown on my workbench. Next I drilled a pilot hole on for a pin so I could spin a piece of MDF on it to cut out a circle.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #173 on:** March 27, 2008, 11:11:32 am »

Thanks javerhy!

I looked at the way you did yours, and it gave me the idea for mine. It is really the same, and I could flip mine over like you did yours. I am going to keep the circle cutter jig. I can drill more pivot holes and cut out a circle from about 4 feet diameter down to right up to the edge of the router base.
This may come in handy when I finally get around to building that jukebox.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #174 on:** March 27, 2008, 05:17:20 pm »

I didnt get a lot done today. been threatening thunderstorms all day.
I did get the holes to mount the monitor drilled in both circle plates.
I intend to run four bolts through the first plate, through the monitor mounting tabs, and through the back plate.
Here are some pics of the monitor plate mounted to the monitor, so I could mark it to cut out for the screen

This is a pic of the side of the monitor (camera was turned sideways.) you can see the line I made with a sharpee marker.

Here is the front of the monitor plate. I attached it with 1/4" carriage bolts.
I put paper towels over the screen to protect it from scratches.

And here is the side. You can see the black mark. This is where I will cut for the monitor to fit into the plate.

csa3d · « **Reply #175 on:** March 27, 2008, 10:53:57 pm »

Ahh, yes.. rain as an excuse!

Are you planning to still find tiny wheels to suppliment the skate bearing? Your rig has me wondering, if one couldn't route a shallow groove into the side of a disk, then use bolts and bearings ONLY to keep the whole thing balanced, using the bolt as the axis, and the bearings as a guide. Curious to see how this thing ends up fitting onto the rotation rig. Hopefully, a rain dance will keep the moister away tomorrow

-csa

DaOld Man · « **Reply #176 on:** March 28, 2008, 12:04:17 am »

Right, right..
I am planning to use just the bearings, But Ive run into two problems.
The bearing shafts are going to be very close to the edge of the wood, due to the 1/4" slot between the disc and the monitor board.
And the bearing I.D. looks like it might be metric. A 5/16" bolt has too much play, and a 3/8" bolt doesnt fit.
So I got to take the bearing into work tomorrow night and try some metric bolts to get the right size, then I got to see if I can find some metric all-thread. I dont want to have to machine a piece, but I may have to, if i use these bearings.
Im not sure I understand what you are talking about with the grove and bolt? Are you talking about my circle cutting rig?

I will talk to my ancestors, see if they can do that rain dance..

csa3d · « **Reply #177 on:** March 28, 2008, 08:36:08 am »

Quote from: DaOld Man on March 28, 2008, 12:04:17 am

Im not sure I understand what you are talking about with the grove and bolt? Are you talking about my circle cutting rig?

one the side edge of the wooden disk you just cut out, I'm proposing taking a router, and cutting into the side of the disk, create a channel the depth of the bearing. If you're mounting your monitor in an upright position, you could then take some bolts and a bearing, and place one on either bottom side of the disk mount at 4:30 and 7:30 on a clock. These bearings mounts would fit into the side grove you cut out, like a train track, keeping the weight off the bottom of the spinning disk and main bearing, while also preventing side to side play.

Make sense? Awesome ansi art to follow..

____
/ \
| disk |
o\_____/o

the O's are the side bearings I speak of, holding up the weight of the main disk, slightly embedded into a routed out side channel.

-csa

DaOld Man · « **Reply #178 on:** March 29, 2008, 08:59:58 am »

Well, I have something like that planned. But since Im using a pretty heavy CRT, I dont know about the slot. It may weaken the wood.
But I picture is worth a hundred words, so as soon as I get it laid out I will post some pics.

Those bearings I bought are giving me fits. The ID is slightly larger than a 8 mm bolt.
I checked a hardware store, and they didnt have any 9mm bolts, and 10 mm is way to big.
I checked at work and we have 8 and 10, no 9.
Whats up with that??

Anyway, does anyone have specs on these bearings? I cant seem to find the ID anywhere on the net.
I sure hope I dont have to make something on the old lathe. I was hoping to keep this project "parts you can get at the store".

On a different note.
I am thinking of putting something on the edge of the MDF disk to make it harder, so maybe it will wear longer.
(It will be running against the bearings.)
I really dont know what it will be, maybe elmers wood glue?
Something that would soak into the MDF and harden.
Hmmmm

Franco B · « **Reply #179 on:** March 29, 2008, 09:13:29 am »

Awesome work

Some quality projects on the go at the moment

Cornchip · « **Reply #180 on:** March 29, 2008, 04:05:19 pm »

Skateboard axle's are an industry standard 8mm (should be). The threads on a 8mm bolt will measure slightly less than a perfect 8mm (.315) giving that loose fit.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #181 on:** March 29, 2008, 04:25:58 pm »

Ok thanks..
I used a 8 mm shoulder bolt, the shoulder should be a scant larger than the thread area, but even on the shoulder the bearing has a bit of play.
What size bolt did you use on your project?

Franco B · « **Reply #182 on:** March 29, 2008, 06:11:29 pm »

The thread OD prior to screwcutting/threading wants to be about 7.95mm or there abouts.

If you want any bolts etc made to some custom dimensions just give me a shout and I would be happy to help (no charge).

Cornchip · « **Reply #183 on:** March 29, 2008, 10:20:45 pm »

I used 4 shoulder bolts (1/2" dia x 3/4 lg). I didn't use bearings inside the roller wheels. Instead I used a plastic called UHMW that is classified as a low speed bearing material. I didn't use a metal lower roller due to the noise that it probably would have created with metal to metal contact (the monitor disk is made from 1/4" Aluminum x 28" in dia). Rubber would have flat spotted with the small contact area between the monitor disk and the roller (wouldn't want to get my finger pinched there!). The UHMW has held up great thus far.

The only bearing in my assembly is a pillow block bearing at the rear. That bearing is for the drive gear and controls the monitors position front to back in the cabinet. The rollers (at the front) only control the monitor wheel centering acting only on it's diameter....not the front or rear faces on the monitor disk. The rollers have a radius groove cut into the outside diameter that the wheel rides in.

I found a picture I might not have posted before. It doesn't clearly show the rollers up close, but does show the front portion of the setup with the rollers mounted.

Cornchip.

Edit...found a better picture as seen from the back.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #184 on:** March 30, 2008, 09:36:06 pm »

Quote from: Franco B on March 29, 2008, 06:11:29 pm

If you want any bolts etc made to some custom dimensions just give me a shout and I would be happy to help (no charge).

Thanks Franco B!!
That is a very generous offer.
I may holler at you soon.
I have playing with this bearing at work, and I think 5/16" or 8 mm shoulder bolts will probably work, maybe I just need to lower my toloerances a little.
But I wont be able to use the all thread idea I originally had.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #185 on:** March 30, 2008, 09:39:29 pm »

Cornchip:
Im sorry I think I got your project confused with the one csa3d is doing..
Thats a good idea on the plastic rollers. I think I will try that if the bearings dont work.
We have some material at work that looks like that. I might get a piece of scrap and make some rollers.
BTW, you did an excellant job on your cabinet...

csa3d · « **Reply #186 on:** March 30, 2008, 11:22:45 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on March 29, 2008, 04:25:58 pm

What size bolt did you use on your project?

If you were asking me (I was confused as well), then I used a 2" by 5/16" threads. I converted 8mm to inches using google, then turned 5/16" into a decimal, then subtracted the two numbers.. and determined the margin of difference would affect the project very little.

Now also remember my monitor will be a lot more horizontal then vertical. If I was going to mount this vertically, I think I would probably used a longer bolt and thicker wood, so that tilt would be minimized a lot more. I'm not sure my 1" bearing is a adequate enough for a vertical mount without some sort of secondary balance, be that rollers, felt pads, or whatever.

-csa

Cornchip · « **Reply #187 on:** March 31, 2008, 02:10:00 pm »

Opps....

DaOld Man · « **Reply #188 on:** April 03, 2008, 09:11:46 pm »

I have hooked my isolator board and H drive to my computer I plan to use for my project.
I have seen some behavior on bootup that is different from my desktop computer.
As best I can tell:
While the machine is booting, all outputs come on (I was expecting that), then all go off except for pin 2, which appears to stay on for a few more seconds.
This is highly undesirable for my project.
I am gathering parts to build a test box so I can actually see what all outputs are doing.
Right now with my isolator board I can only watch pins 2,3, 5 and 6.
Do all computers act differently with the printer port on bootup?
This could be either very interesting or very aggravating.

I have developed a small program that will allow you to turn on and off the printer port outputs, and monitor the inputs.
I also have a PWM process built in if you want to play with speed control.
Here is a screenshot, PM if you would like to try it out.

weisshaupt · « **Reply #189 on:** April 04, 2008, 12:36:56 am »

Quote from: DaOld Man on April 03, 2008, 09:11:46 pm

While the machine is booting, all outputs come on (I was expecting that), then all go off except for pin 2, which appears to stay on for a few more seconds.
This is highly undesirable for my project.

There are some registry hacks for windoews that will keep it from trying to autodetect anything on the Parallel port ( I googled them, found them, used them and lost them again) If your Bios is doing it there is little you can do, other than use some sort of timed relay that kills the outputs till the pc reaches a certain state...

DaOld Man · « **Reply #190 on:** April 04, 2008, 12:50:08 am »

Yeah I know.. I went through the same problem when I first started this project.
(Several posts back).

On my desktop all outputs came on for a few seconds, then all went off.
I wired a fix for that in my isolator board, using a PNP transistor that cut the ground off to the opto isolators if Pin 7 was high, but evidently on this other computer pin 2 is staying high longer than the others, because pin 2 comes on after a slight pause and stays on until Windows starts to load. Since I am using pin2 for one of my drive's directions, this aint gonna fly.
I wont be able to tell for sure what is going on until I get my output tester built, then I can monitor all of them.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #191 on:** April 04, 2008, 11:37:17 am »

Ive been playing around with my printer port tester.
I changed it a bit to allow me to adjust PWM "on the fly".
Ive been able to get my motor speed down to about 1 RPM
Remember though, that my motor has a gearbox. Output at full speed is about 55 RPM.
Here is a screen shot of my latest printer port tester.
I added checkboxes so you can choose which output(s) to pulse for PWM.
I also added buttons to increase/decrease speed in increments of 1 and 50.
I added ability to change input scan time.
I also added a couple of blinky lights to tell that the inputs are being updated.

edited to show a better screenshot

DaOld Man · « **Reply #192 on:** April 04, 2008, 11:59:18 pm »

I have been playing around with Pulse Width Modulation using my printer port tester.
I have found that about the slowest I can efficiently get out of my motor is a pulse of 38 milliseconds off and 8 milliseconds on.
I can take it slower than this, but the motor jerks pretty bad.
Im estimating the RPM at this PWM to be approx 10 RPM.
My motor is very hefty, and it has a gearbox, I think a small motor would run a lot smoother at low speeds.
The power transistors on my H Drive are getting pretty warm at this speed. I can see now why the transistors failed on my earlier tests. My first H drive had no heat sinks on the power transistors.
I can see where the transistors will fail under these conditions without proper heatsinks.
I probably wont need speed control on my setup, but it is fun experimenting with it.
I wonder how this program would work on the secret motor driver the LCD guys are working on?

DaOld Man · « **Reply #193 on:** April 09, 2008, 05:59:42 am »

Just a quick update.
I may have to redesign my rotate design.
The machine I plan to install it in (Benny B's Arcade), is very short on room in the monitor area.

When I built Benny B's, I never thought I would be installing a rotating monitor.
I almost decided to go back and make the original monitor installed in it (17") rotate.
Nah, I like challenges. It's gotta be the 19". Too far to turn back now. (or is it???)
So I got to get out the saws and do some re-constructive work on Benny B's.
Pictures soon, soon I say!

koz319 · « **Reply #194 on:** April 14, 2008, 08:42:02 pm »

Is the depth of the monitor the issue?

The 21in. CRT I put in mine (an old NEC Multisync) was freaking huge. I did a bit of planning/playing with the tilt of the monitor to reduce it's footprint front to back. There was no room to attach anything to the rear of the monitor, so I went with a 2 'wooden wheel' setup. I attached a couple pics, I have some better ones somewhere I will try to find.

Have fun!

Koz

csa3d · « **Reply #195 on:** April 14, 2008, 10:43:38 pm »

Quote from: koz319 on April 14, 2008, 08:42:02 pm

I attached a couple pics

Those rollers are and support bar design are pretty "official"! Are those inline skate wheels? What are those fat, vertical support wheels? Very interesting..

-csa

DaOld Man · « **Reply #196 on:** April 15, 2008, 07:06:54 am »

Quote from: koz319 on April 14, 2008, 08:42:02 pm

Is the depth of the monitor the issue?

The 21in. CRT I put in mine (an old NEC Multisync) was freaking huge. I did a bit of planning/playing with the tilt of the monitor to reduce it's footprint front to back. There was no room to attach anything to the rear of the monitor, so I went with a 2 'wooden wheel' setup. I attached a couple pics, I have some better ones somewhere I will try to find.

Have fun!

Koz

Thanks for the pics Koz319.. you were one of my best inspiration suppliers.
I think my problem is the space between my CP and the speaker panel.
I think I am going to have to cut out my speaker panel and slide the whole monster up a little.
If I could even put it in the 17" space, my monitor would go below the control panel when turned vertical, so I dont see any other choice.
Im not really worried about it sticking out the back of the cab yet. My cab sits in a corner, so most likely no one will see it. but I know I cant leave it like that, I may have to build a back extension to my cab.
Its been very hectic at work lately and I havent had much time to work on this project.
So im not real sure how it's going to turn out yet.
Please post more pics of your setup if you have them. Very interesting stuff.

Jimbo · « **Reply #197 on:** April 15, 2008, 08:11:44 am »

Hey there!

Great progress!

The way you cut out the wheel to mount the monitor to has inspired me to re-do the way I did mine (originally with a Jigsaw - the first bit of woodworking I ever did) but I love your router way so am gonna do that to get a perfectly round circle. At the moment on mine it doesn't rotate smoothly at all!

My monitor is mounted at 45 degrees which although it does make the cab a bit deeper, it still doesn't affect it too much, and it fits nicely between the CP and speaker panel, and is a nice angle to look at (I think). Having more of an angle might mean you can lower the monitor a bit so it starts slightly below the control panel, and you'll still be able to see the whole screen when playing. Feel free to check out my plans (in my project thread). Not sure how you're mounting your monitor but it may help (even if its to help you decide what NOT to do! LOL )

DaOld Man · « **Reply #198 on:** April 15, 2008, 09:21:30 pm »

Quote from: Jimbo on April 15, 2008, 08:11:44 am

Hey there!

Great progress! The way you cut out the wheel to mount the monitor to has inspired me to re-do the way I did mine (originally with a Jigsaw - the first bit of woodworking I ever did) but I love your router way so am gonna do that to get a perfectly round circle. At the moment on mine it doesn't rotate smoothly at all!

My monitor is mounted at 45 degrees which although it does make the cab a bit deeper, it still doesn't affect it too much, and it fits nicely between the CP and speaker panel, and is a nice angle to look at (I think). Having more of an angle might mean you can lower the monitor a bit so it starts slightly below the control panel, and you'll still be able to see the whole screen when playing. Feel free to check out my plans (in my project thread). Not sure how you're mounting your monitor but it may help (even if its to help you decide what NOT to do! LOL )

Thanks for the comments Jimbo. I was pretty pleased with the circle cutting jig.
I have checked your thread out, but it has been a while. Guess I need to go through it again..

DaOld Man · « **Reply #199 on:** May 25, 2008, 06:33:31 pm »

Ok, after much much time on this project I think I can say it is finished.
I appreciate all the tips, advice and help from all you guys, plus I appreciate everyone's patience with this extremely drawn out post.

First of all a look at the front, horizontal position.

I dont have plexi glass in front of the screen yet, that is coming.

Here is the front, in vertical position:

Here is the back. i went with plywood for the back, you cant see it, but there is a lazy susan bearing between the ply and the back circle of MDF.
The hole in the middle is to let the cords exit, and to allow air to flow to the back of the monitor.

And here is the other side of the back, you can see teh motor mounted to teh plywood and teh H drive and interface board mounted below it.

Here is the back, with the monitor off relay mounted and wired into the monitor power cable.
You can also see an AT type power supply.

Here is one of the skateboard bearings, with the front MDF disk riding against it.
I used 5 bearings on the front disk, and two on the back.

And here is one of the back bearings, riding against the back MDF disk.
Notice the #25 chain attached to the perimeter of the disk.
This is how the motor turns the disk.
The end of the chain also provides a mechanical stop when it gets to the bearing.

Here is the motor drive. The nylon sprocket rides in the chain, and pulls the MDF disk clockwise and counter clockwise.
This setup works well, but it is a little noisey.

Here are the limit switches. These are paddle micro switches, like the kind used on some joysticks.
I put a screw through the MDF disk to strike the switch paddle when the desired position is reached.
The switches are wired back to the isolator board mounted on the back.

And here is a side view. The monitor is sandwiched between two round MDF disks.
The disks are attached with 1/4" all thread bolts.
I had to use nylon cord as bracing to keep the disks from twisting when turning.
This worked out better than I expected.

You can also see in the last picture a block mounted to the front disk.
I cut out a circle of black poster board, then cut out the monitor screen in this disk.
This disk attaches to 4 of these blocks.
You can see this setup better in the first two pictures.

Im using a mala plugin that Loadman made for me. This plugin calls my program, mrotate.exe, which turns the motor on and waits for the monitor to reach its new position. If it doesnt reach the limit within a customizable time, it will turn the motor off.

The monitor takes about 12 seconds to turn from horizontal to vertical, then about 10 seconds vertical to horizontal.
The monitor off relay turns off the monitor while it is rotating.
I had provided an output for this relay, but it is not working, I think it may be a bad opto isolator.
Rather than to take the H drive off the isolator board to gain access to the chip, I just wired the 12 volt relay to the H drive output. This works good because Im not using speed control.

The motor stops good and holds the weight of the monitor, probably because of the right angle gearbox, and the large ratio between the motor gear and the MDF disk, so I dont need a brake.

The whole monitor unit is self contained. I have installed it in Benny B's arcade. It doesnt fit perfectly, and I will need to modify the cabinet to look good. But it is working great.
I plan to document this modification in my thread I started earlier:

Extreme makeover: Benny B's Arcade

So stay tuned to that thread.

Thanks again for everyones input. The idea of the lazy susan was not mine.
Neither was the idea of the chain around the perimeter of the disk.

Im sure there are other ideas I borrowed too. maybe I will go back and give everyone proper credit here soon..

I like the rotating monitor. It is 19" CRT monitor so the vertical looks like a very big improvement with vertical games.

If I build another cabinet, I may go ahead and incorporate the rotating monitor in it. But I may try an LCD monitor next time.


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Author Topic: Rotating monitor construction *Project finished* (Read 80425 times)

Author Topic: Rotating monitor construction Project finished (Read 80425 times)