Author Topic: Started my first ever wood working project! Don't have a name yet! (Read 11579 times)

prosthetichead · « **on:** January 08, 2014, 09:10:45 pm »

I had always wanted to build an arcade cabinet but I had no experience in wood working and didn't have the space to learn.

The house my wife and I bought a few years ago had a shed decked out by someone a lot more handy with tools then myself so I figured I had no more excuses to not learn how to do some wood work. This Christmas I got myself some power tools, some MDF and found some plans on the internet (taitorama from www.koenigs.dk) and set about learning!

My new router.

New jigsaw with practicing to cut circles.

Marking out the first side panel

prosthetichead · « **Reply #1 on:** January 08, 2014, 09:20:13 pm »

first side panel cut

second side panel cut

base made up, bolts are counter sunk using the router

Started testing speakers and small USB powered amp I had spare. Speakers are cheep 5$ jobs.

testing everything looks right.

First moldings going on!

Base attached! I stuffed up a little here and its about 5mm crooked!

Second side panel is now on!

This is were I'm upto as of now! I will keep posting as I progress! Any comments or pointers would be great! this is the first time I have ever done any real wood working like this so I'm sort of just learning as I go! I have already made a few mistakes but I'm really enjoying it!

WaRpEd · « **Reply #2 on:** January 08, 2014, 11:00:53 pm »

Nice progress on that Taito style cab, You may want to rout the t-mold slot before you get much further just in case.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2014, 11:17:09 pm »

Thanks!

Yeah I was thinking that also and starting to get worried I'm going to make it hard to cut the t-molding slot. Problem is I need to order the T-Molding and slot cutter on the net and due to costs I need to wait before I can order it and then wait even longer for it all arrive in Australia and I keep itching to do a little more every day I get home from work.

Wish I could just find a place in Adelaide to buy the slot cutter bit..

gabrielmtl · « **Reply #4 on:** January 09, 2014, 01:06:23 am »

It's hard to find in big stores. Have you tried small wood shops, that sell to kitchen cabinet makers and such?

prosthetichead · « **Reply #5 on:** January 09, 2014, 01:10:38 am »

I haven't tired smaller shops just the big large hardware stores, I might have to have a ring around this weekend. Just talked to my wife and I can order the slot cutter and t-molding from http://www.t-molding.com/ next week so hopefully might not be waiting long anyway

stripe4 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 09, 2014, 04:34:53 am »

Congrats on your project, prosthetichead!

Some tips for you.

Most online retailers sell slot cutters with 1/4" shank diameter. See if your router has an adapter for this exact size. Not sure about Australia, but routers sold in Europe usually have adapters for 6mm and 8mm shank diameters, 1/2" and 1/4" are less common. Also be sure to pick up a slot cutter with the right kerf size.

Before you order from t-molding.com, do check prices at gamemolding.com or groovygamegear.com. I just changed my GGG account's country to Australia, put 20 feet of t-molding and a slot cutter in the shopping cart, and here's the result:
Goods: $27.95
Shipping: First-Class Package International Service™ $22.45
Because GGG also carries arcade cabinet parts, I bought some other stuff there, too. For example, this:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=89&products_id=295

prosthetichead · « **Reply #7 on:** January 09, 2014, 05:17:26 am »

I just checked and I have a 6.35mm adapter sleeve for my router to bring it down from 12.7mm so that's all good! I hadn't thought of different sized bits though so good call!

the price from GGG is a LOT better mostly because I can order per foot not in only 20 foot rolls! so that's awesome! Its amazing that its cheaper for me to order a router bit and 20+ feet of t-molding from the USA then it is for me to just buy the slot cutting router bit in Australia!

thanks heaps for the tips!!

prosthetichead · « **Reply #8 on:** January 09, 2014, 07:02:23 am »

http://www.koenigs.dk/mame/cp_taitorama.pdf

just a quick noob questions. Does anyone know how to read what angle these are on the control panel plans?

skjerk · « **Reply #9 on:** January 09, 2014, 07:29:07 am »

Hi.

The angles are written in the plan - just zoom in!

From top to bottom:
150 degrees
105 degees
135 degees
135 degees

prosthetichead · « **Reply #10 on:** January 09, 2014, 07:38:42 am »

On my screen I had 1500, 1350 and so on I'm sitting here scratching my head like an idiot.

I guess they used another 0 to show the degree symbol °?
Feel silly now..

I did say this was my first time

xandnic · « **Reply #11 on:** January 10, 2014, 09:59:09 am »

Nice start!

I'm also building a Taitorama, hoping to make some progress soon.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #12 on:** January 11, 2014, 07:54:43 am »

Thanks Xandnic, You look a lot more organized then I am. I will have to subscribe to your build!

Did a little more today planing how to tackle the control panel without using metal and converted a a dell stand to work as a mount for my dell screen!

prosthetichead · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2014, 10:23:35 pm »

looking at how I will mount USB ports.

This is just on a scrap bit of wood, should be able do it again no worries!

eds1275 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 12, 2014, 12:53:08 pm »

Amazing work for your first woodworking project. Must be researching, measuring, and otherwise being careful. Good job!

Louis Tully · « **Reply #15 on:** January 12, 2014, 02:49:31 pm »

prosthetichead · « **Reply #16 on:** January 12, 2014, 06:26:49 pm »

Thanks guys!
I'm really enjoying it, wish I had given it a go sooner!

redid the USB port mount on a fresh board for the control panel last night! It was still stinking hot even at 7pm so didn't do the mount for the amp/volume nob on the other side of the board yet.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #17 on:** January 16, 2014, 08:30:55 am »

Scored a 20 inch Dell LCD screen today!! Was looking how I'm going to install it, was thinking a shelf to put the monitor stand on may be best as it has a rotating stand!!

Anyone done that in their cabs? Most I have seen are mounted but I would like to keep the screen rotation if I can!

prosthetichead · « **Reply #18 on:** January 19, 2014, 06:11:32 pm »

Got the cabinet standing up and Vesa mount installed for my screen. Ended up just mounting it using parts from an older dell stand and it all lined up really well!

Now I need to ignore the project for a while wait for my slot cutting router bit, T-molding and buttons/joysticks to come!! Going to be a long few weeks waiting till I can do more!!

eds1275 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 20, 2014, 04:10:42 pm »

You could totally work on the software or control panel!

prosthetichead · « **Reply #20 on:** January 20, 2014, 07:41:46 pm »

That's a good idea, I will spend this time getting everything setup nice software wise!

PL1 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 20, 2014, 10:09:33 pm »

While you're setting up your software, figure out which admin buttons you want/need for your setup. (Start 1/2, Coin 1/2, Exit, Pause, etc.)

Scott

prosthetichead · « **Reply #22 on:** February 06, 2014, 05:34:48 am »

So i got my slot cutter today and set to cutting the slot for the t molding. Had a few practice runs and felt ok to start cutting the cab.

first side went well few little mistakes but nothing bad, then the second side..
I fluffed up big time, I dont know how it happened maybe I shifted the angle a little? I'm not sure but I took out a big chunk in the front!!

the rest looks like this.

so i need some advice. Should I leave it and just glue the t-molding on this bit? or should I fill it and any other cut I'm not 100% happy about with wood putty and have another go on the weekend? would filling it be ok?

eds1275 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 06, 2014, 06:02:28 am »

I would recomend filling it with wood putty or Bondo (automotive body filler) and re-routing those parts. An alternative would be to hot-glue it in place. If you go this route, I would still recomend re-routing the areas that aren't centered so that the spine does not push it off to one side.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #24 on:** February 06, 2014, 07:27:00 am »

Youre doing great, looks better than my first cab

Ditto on the bondo, it's a builder's best friend. Fill it up and then just reroute it. I've used wood putty in the past but am 100% sold on bondo as the end all be all for this type of thing.

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 06, 2014, 11:26:02 am »

Quote from: prosthetichead on February 06, 2014, 05:34:48 am

Same thing happened to me on the top part of the cab I'm currently working on. About 6 inches from the end of the last cut I accidentally tilted my router towards myself instead of keeping it flat and got almost the same cut as you did in the preceding picture. I filled it with some Dap Wood Plastic (which can be found here ) let it sit over night, sanded it, and ran the router through it again and with paint I can't even tell I fubbed it.

yotsuya · « **Reply #26 on:** February 06, 2014, 02:12:13 pm »

How is that DAP Plastic Wood? I've seen it but never tried it.

NickG · « **Reply #27 on:** February 07, 2014, 12:10:54 am »

The DAP is good for this problem. It can crack like some other putties when trying to build large shapes.

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #28 on:** February 07, 2014, 08:03:56 am »

DAP is great as a filler. It helps people like me who tend to create mistakes from time to time. It's easy to do quick applications and sand away the next day. It takes paint well also. I definitely would not recommend it as a 'building' material. But if you are going to make something why not just take the time and use wood.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #29 on:** February 10, 2014, 06:23:25 am »

fixed up my tmolding slot flub up so moved onto adding the kickplate and emergency keyboard draw!

prosthetichead · « **Reply #30 on:** March 02, 2014, 09:59:28 pm »

Got a bit more done this weekend!

My buttons and t-molding arrived from in2amusements.com.au so I tested my planed layout on a cardboard box lid and was very happy!

I hit a small problem, I forgot to order 2 plug for the joysticks. I did discover a cool thing though, a standard USB cable for a mobo fit the bill perfectly

I set about mounting the joysticks and buttons in my control panel and was surprised how well I was able to top mount the Sanwa joysticks, I was a bit worried about doing it as I hadn't done much like this with the router yet.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #31 on:** March 02, 2014, 10:19:43 pm »

Are you going to use a plexi cover over the art? I'm a bit concerned about the air gap around the joystick there, would be a shame to punch through that with a finger and ruin a nice CP overlay.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #32 on:** March 02, 2014, 11:51:48 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on March 02, 2014, 10:19:43 pm

Are you going to use a plexi cover over the art? I'm a bit concerned about the air gap around the joystick there, would be a shame to punch through that with a finger and ruin a nice CP overlay.

Yep have a sheet of acrylic ready to drill with holes soon.
I'm using Sanwa buttons to so need the 3mm acrylic to hold the clip-ins. Not sure what im going to do about CP art yet.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #33 on:** March 04, 2014, 11:45:04 pm »

Well acrylic sucks..

Just wanted to say that.

Drnick · « **Reply #34 on:** March 05, 2014, 02:38:48 am »

Did you read selfies guide http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119165.0.html before trying to do whatever you did that now makes you think that acrylic sucks. I'm guessing it cracked on you somewhere.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #35 on:** March 05, 2014, 05:30:04 am »

Yeah I did, but still cracked it.

Going to get some polycarbonate and try that instead.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #36 on:** March 21, 2014, 09:54:00 am »

I got a sheet of polycarbonate and a flush trim router bit and started a new control panel from scratch!
I cut all the holes and routed out the mounts for the joysticks. I then used the flush trim bit to cut the larger button holes in the polycarbonate and a step bit to do the smaller holes.
Came up really well on my second try!

I was able to wire up player one and get a few games of Street Fighter 4!!

I then installed the mounts in the cab for the control panel, and install the control panel

Played a game of Ninja Turtles with my wife! Worked Perfectly!
Now to paint it!!

Generic Eric · « **Reply #37 on:** March 21, 2014, 12:49:38 pm »

I'd like to know more about the "bottom shelf" of your cabinet. Why does is have that bullnose rounded face to it? It looks cool, but I am curious if it adds any utility.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #38 on:** March 21, 2014, 06:52:33 pm »

Quote from: Generic Eric on March 21, 2014, 12:49:38 pm

I'd like to know more about the "bottom shelf" of your cabinet. Why does is have that bullnose rounded face to it? It looks cool, but I am curious if it adds any utility.

I think its just a trick of the light, its just a normal 90deg angle.
It does look very smooth and round in the pic I think it might be created by the over head light and a shadow from the cross beam.

prosthetichead · « **Reply #39 on:** June 30, 2014, 11:36:33 pm »

Have been quiet for a few months but finally found some time to strip and start painting my cabinet! Under coat is done and most of the blue areas are done! shouldn't be long and will be able to move it inside!

Also in this down time I started work on writing my own fount end!
Arcadia is the name of the fount end written in c++ and totally open source!
This is still a big work in progress but the main focus of it is using data available from thegamesdb.com and using this data to sort and filter huge games lists without needing to return to a main platform selection screen. I wanted a focus on information and speed over flash graphics.

Here is a video of it running.

As you can see in the start of the video I serched for "mario" and every game available with Mario in the title is listed I then pressed left and right to filter the list by platform. not shown in this video but is possible is also filtering the list by developer, so you can choose Capcom games and then flick over to arcade to quickly see every Capcom arcade game. If there is interest I can make up a video with more detail.


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