*UNNAMED* Taitorama build

[xandnic]

Hi all,

I’m building a cabinet from the Taitorama plans.

The materials I will use are:

• 16 mm MDF
• 0.7 mm Formica
• 11/16” T-molding
• 2 mm sheet metal for the control panel
• 3 mm Lexan

I have zero woodworking skills and not too much time on my hands (we had our second child a month ago), so this is gonna take time..  But I figure I’ll make better progress if I go public with the project.

Here’s the progress made so far:

I made plans on how to cut the pieces from two 1220x2440 mm MDF boards.


I had all the pieces cut at the hardware store.  I live in an apartment and want to minimize MDF dust..


Here are all the pieces cut out.


I’ve mapped out the sides on the MDF board.


Bought a router.


Routing the sides.  I made all the beginner’s mistakes with the router that you can think of, so I had to buy more MDF and do this twice.  I’m lucky I didn’t hurt myself.  It turned out perfect the second time though.   I don’t have a circular saw yet, so all the straight cuts are made with the router and a guide.


The sides are finished.


I picked up 3 mm Lexan pieces for the bezel, marquee and control panel overlay.


Stocking up on parts for the build.  Smart power strip, amplifier, speakers, wheels, legs, etc..


More parts.  T-molding and slot cutter are shipped from the US.  Shipping and customs cost as much as the material, but I couldn’t find 11/16” black T-molding in Europe.


Test-fitting the T-molding on a scrap piece.  Fits nicely.


I bought two NES/SNES RetroKits from Retrousb.com that I soldered onto original NES and SNES controllers.  I’ve tried using 3rd party controllers, but it’s not the same thing..  These will be used to play NES/SNES/GENESIS games, I can’t play these with regular joysticks and pushbuttons.


The control panel is done!  I had this done at a metal shop in town. 


Next up:

• Buy a circular saw.
• Build the cabinet base.  I’m using this site as inspiration.
• Buy and apply Formica to the insides and route out for the support frames.

[emphatic]

You're off to a great start!

[xandnic]

You're off to a great start!

Thanks!

[rablack97]

Nice work man...

Why do you say you can't play nes, snes, and genesis with a j-stick and button?

Just map the buttons in the emulator the buttons on the CP....

I play all of these consoles on my machine at home now.....Folks buy the retro kits so they have the authentic feel of the stick when playing, however you can still play all of these consoles w/o buying the sticks.

Keeep up the good work

[ChanceKJ]

This is a fantastic start! 

[stripe4]

Seeing that you had trouble sourcing t-molding, I was wondering why did you choose to go with 16 mm MDF in the first place? 11/16" equals 17.46 mm, and it is a tad wider than you actually need. You could go with 18 mm MDF and 3/4" (19 mm) t-molding, which is more widespread.

I'm also from Europe, and I found GroovyGameGear to be the least expensive vendor to order t-molding and a slot cutter.

Nevertheless, you really are off on the right foot! Do you already have anything in mind about artwork?

[xandnic]

Thanks for the positive feedback, guys.

Why do you say you can't play nes, snes, and genesis with a j-stick and button?

I *CAN*, I just find it hard to play them that way.

Seeing that you had trouble sourcing t-molding, I was wondering why did you choose to go with 16 mm MDF in the first place? 11/16" equals 17.46 mm, and it is a tad wider than you actually need. You could go with 18 mm MDF and 3/4" (19 mm) t-molding, which is more widespread.

I'm applying .7mm Formica to the inside and outside, so the real width will be 17.4 mm.  11/16" was the closest I could find to match that.

Do you already have anything in mind about artwork?

Not yet, but I'm thinking something Nintendo retro-ish.  Unfortunately my artistic skills are worse than anything else. 

[cmoses]

Very nice start. 


Sent from my iPad Mini using Tapatalk HD

[xandnic]

I bought a guide rail for the router, it’ll hopefully make it easier to trim down the laminate for the battens.



As for the circular saw, I’m thinking of buying the Bosch GKT 55 GCE plunge saw.  What are your thoughts on it?

[rablack97]

Good saw........

Your going to laminate your battens?

I used 5/8 as well along with the 1/32 laminate on both sides.

The 11/16 tmoulding is gonna be a bit wider even with the laminate on both sides.  Take a razor blade to the proud edges hold it flat and trim.  You will then have flush sides.

[xandnic]

Your going to laminate your battens?

No, I'm laminating the insides and cutting out the areas where the battens will go, like Martijn did in his Marvel vs. Capcom build:

[rablack97]

why not use your flush cut bit?

no need for that guide, the bearing will ride along your inner edge and trim the laminate.

also, any reason why your countersinking the batons....

why not just laminate, then layout your batons on top of the laminate, glue and screw them into the sides.

LOL, Martijn is a mad scientist, the man makes no visible mistakes, if your gonna mimic his methods your a brave soul.

The way i recommended gives you some room for error as you can reposition the batons if need be, Martijns way, once those slots are cut you at a point of no return unless you are a master with bondo.

This little guy is fully laminated.....using small batons no insets and is rock solid.....





Just some ideas and opinions.....

[xandnic]

why not use your flush cut bit?

no need for that guide, the bearing will ride along your inner edge and trim the laminate.

I’ve been using the flush cut bit a lot, and that was my original plan for this task, but I think this will be easier.

• The entire router base plate is flush to the surface, instead of having to balance it on a guiding piece of wood.  Maybe it’s just me, but I think it’s hard to keep it level while routing on an edge, and this is how I was REALLY close to hurt myself when doing the sides.
• You can fine adjust the router’s distance to the guide, so you don’t have to move the guide for every pass.
• It’s easier to clamp down.  The clamps slide in underneath the guide and are never in the way for the router.

I’ll also use the guide rail with the circular saw, once I have spouse approval to buy it..

also, any reason why your countersinking the batons....

why not just laminate, then layout your batons on top of the laminate, glue and screw them into the sides.

Do you use regular wood glue when gluing the battens to the laminate?  I didn’t think the bond would be strong enough..

Nice cab btw.

[rablack97]

Yeah i just use gorilla wood glue.  Glue + Screws it's not going anywhere.

Ok, wait, your saying the guide is for cutting the recesses into the mdf for the battens right.

If thats the case i see your point, however you gotta do it twice man and it all has to line up.  If your new to the router, make sure you practice before you try that technique.

The only reason i mention the other way, is less room for error....you get to cutting into your side pieces and screw up, you've ruined an entire side.

Also, you might look into these as well, i dont know how much your guide will cost, but these are less bulky and do the same thing, price is for the pack.

http://www.rockler.com/all-in-one-clamp-guide-package-squaring-attachment

Either way, your off to a great ambitious start, i'm just throwing out suggestions.....

[xandnic]

Ok, wait, your saying the guide is for cutting the recesses into the mdf for the battens right.

Correct.

If thats the case i see your point, however you gotta do it twice man and it all has to line up.  If your new to the router, make sure you practice before you try that technique.

I have a master plan for getting two identical sides.   I’ll get back to that.

Either way, your off to a great ambitious start, i'm just throwing out suggestions.....

Thanks, any feedback is welcome!


I hope to get some more progress in a month or so.

[a1pharm]

Congrats on taking the plunge, you are progressing nicely.  Here are some thoughts:

Do not attach you battens to laminate, route the laminate away just like martijn did (the bond will be much stronger, and will last much longer).  If you were making a smaller cab, this might be appropriate, but I would be very nervous to do this with a full-sized cab.

I tried to copy most of maritijn's process for my full sized build last year, some of my insights may be useful to you (link in my sig).

Cheers!
 

[xandnic]

Congrats on taking the plunge, you are progressing nicely.

I've decided to go for the plunge, but spouse approval is still pending.

Do not attach you battens to laminate, route the laminate away just like martijn did (the bond will be much stronger, and will last much longer).  If you were making a smaller cab, this might be appropriate, but I would be very nervous to do this with a full-sized cab.

My thoughts exactly.  That's what I'll do.

I tried to copy most of maritijn's process for my full sized build last year, some of my insights may be useful to you (link in my sig).

I've read many build threads on the forums before diving in to the project, and your's (and Martjin's) is one of the reasons I went for laminate.  Plus I hate painting.

[a1pharm]

Yeah, painting blows.  Laminate also has a much better "feel" than any painted surface.

 

[rablack97]

Hmmmm,

I dunno, in theory yeah the bond might be stronger.  However gorilla wood glue bond anything, I've had to redo pieces from laminate and mdf, and both took a fair amount of brute stength to pull apart.

If you were just gluing then i could see not gluing to laminate, but gluing and using screws will give you the strength you need, and unless you plan on tossing the maching around a room, I highly doubt it will crumble to pieces in front of you.

I can vouch for gluing and screwing to laminate, it does not sacrifice strength. 

Look at this page, this is one of the classic builds on the forum.  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,96465.160.html

So no right or wrong....

[xandnic]

So, I just ordered one of these:




..plus some Pololu parts.  Maybe I can use it for something like a.. rotating monitor?

Thanks Griffindod for inspiation. 

[surface tension]

Looking great so far! Seeing those profiles takes me back to the beginning of last year when I built a Taito-style upright (here if you're interested). I just love that profile so I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

[nanoflower]

So, I just ordered one of these:




..plus some Pololu parts.  Maybe I can use it for something like a.. rotating monitor?

Thanks Griffindod for inspiation. 

Looking nice so far xandnic.
This post kind of tickeled me as I am planning the exact same build.
I even bought the Pololu motor controller and the high torque engine - I have my suspescions  - are you from Denmark?

[xandnic]

Looking great so far! Seeing those profiles takes me back to the beginning of last year when I built a Taito-style upright (here if you're interested). I just love that profile so I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

Nice build! 

This post kind of tickeled me as I am planning the exact same build.
I even bought the Pololu motor controller and the high torque engine - I have my suspescions  - are you from Denmark?

I guess we share a good taste in cabinets.   Let me know when you start building.

I live in Sweden.

[Ond]

Yeah, painting blows.  Laminate also has a much better "feel" than any painted surface.

 

Not always true.  These generalisms catch my attention.

[nanoflower]

This post kind of tickeled me as I am planning the exact same build.
I even bought the Pololu motor controller and the high torque engine - I have my suspescions  - are you from Denmark?

I guess we share a good taste in cabinets.   Let me know when you start building.

I live in Sweden.

I absolutely will.
Think I'll make an inventory list tonight of the parts I've collected so far.
What LCD size are you planning to put in this?
-and-
Where will you be buying the Formica? the 0.7mm sheets and the 16mm MDF will make a snug fit with your T-Molding

/Nano

[xandnic]

What LCD size are you planning to put in this?

I'll go for the biggest 4:3 monitor that I can fit in there.   I haven't given that much thought yet.

Where will you be buying the Formica? the 0.7mm sheets and the 16mm MDF will make a snug fit with your T-Molding

I found a Formica supplier here in Stockholm, http://www.sigvard-spangberg.se/.  900 SEK (~USD 140) per 3050x1300 sheet.

[EssexMame]

Great looking build!

What are "all the beginners router errors you can think of"?

[nanoflower]

What LCD size are you planning to put in this?

I'll go for the biggest 4:3 monitor that I can fit in there.   I haven't given that much thought yet.

Where will you be buying the Formica? the 0.7mm sheets and the 16mm MDF will make a snug fit with your T-Molding

I found a Formica supplier here in Stockholm, http://www.sigvard-spangberg.se/.  900 SEK (~USD 140) per 3050x1300 sheet.

You should probably already start looking for an LCD if you want anything larger than 20"
I don't know the 2nd hand marked in Sweden, but 21.3" ones (the largest consumer screen size produced I believe) are getting pretty rare here in Denmark.
I got lucky and found a Samsung SyncMaster 214T in December (some time after I had already spend money on a 20") and I haven't seen any up for sale since
OuCH! on the Formica, but probably money well spent 

/Nano

[xandnic]

You should probably already start looking for an LCD if you want anything larger than 20"
I don't know the 2nd hand marked in Sweden, but 21.3" ones (the largest consumer screen size produced I believe) are getting pretty rare here in Denmark.
I got lucky and found a Samsung SyncMaster 214T in December (some time after I had already spend money on a 20") and I haven't seen any up for sale since

Thanks for the info, I'll keep my eyes open.

I looked up the specs on the SyncMaster 214T, and it would give me a 7 mm clearance when rotating in my 600mm wide cab.  Perfect.

[emphatic]

I live in Sweden.

Are you a member of www.arkadtorget.se ?

[xandnic]

I live in Sweden.

Are you a member of www.arkadtorget.se ?

Yes, but not active.

[nanoflower]

You should probably already start looking for an LCD if you want anything larger than 20"
I don't know the 2nd hand marked in Sweden, but 21.3" ones (the largest consumer screen size produced I believe) are getting pretty rare here in Denmark.
I got lucky and found a Samsung SyncMaster 214T in December (some time after I had already spend money on a 20") and I haven't seen any up for sale since

Thanks for the info, I'll keep my eyes open.

I looked up the specs on the SyncMaster 214T, and it would give me a 7 mm clearance when rotating in my 600mm wide cab.  Perfect.

For a second there I was looking for a 'Like' button. I was wondering about that and whether or not I'd have to widen the cab should I decide to go down this path.
You should check out DNA Dan's post here in reference to the Auto rotating screen. With help from nitz he got the AHK script (downloadable) working perfectly in Hyperspin
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,110471.80.html

This combined with griffindodd's direct mounting of the motor on the back of the LCD like he ended up doing in his "Marvel v Capcom: Revolution" project would probably be the way I'd go

/Nano

[xandnic]

You should check out DNA Dan's post here in reference to the Auto rotating screen. With help from nitz he got the AHK script (downloadable) working perfectly in Hyperspin
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,110471.80.html

This combined with griffindodd's direct mounting of the motor on the back of the LCD like he ended up doing in his "Marvel v Capcom: Revolution" project would probably be the way I'd go

/Nano

Those are the threads that inspired me to go for a rotating monitor.


On a different note, I bought a cheap 12v power supply for the motor today.  40W is kind of overkill, but it was the smallest one they had in stock.

Not that I think it really matters, but I fiddled a bit with its potentiometer to get it down from 12.6 V to 12 V.

[nanoflower]

Those are the threads that inspired me to go for a rotating monitor.

On a different note, I bought a cheap 12v power supply for the motor today.  40W is kind of overkill, but it was the smallest one they had in stock.

Not that I think it really matters, but I fiddled a bit with its potentiometer to get it down from 12.6 V to 12 V.

Very nice.
Was this bought as a 12v supply and how many amps is it?
I was wondering as it probably would have fried some components down the line if you hadn't adjusted it
Did you give some thought to powering the Pololu controller directly from the PC's PSU - Not sure if that'll suck too much juice out of my system though; what do you think?

/nano

[xandnic]

Great looking build!

Thanks! 

What are "all the beginners router errors you can think of"?

For example:

• I never practised on a scrap piece.
• I routed in the wrong direction the first few seconds, even though I'd spent a few nights before reading and watching clips.  Standing there with the router made me forget everything.
• I routed a large half-circle in 16 mm MDF in one pass, instead of doing 3-4mm depth at a time.  The router bit was almost smouldering.
• I attached a guiding piece of wood with only double-sided tape.  It came off during the routing.
• I had the vacuum attached to the wrong side of the router, so 90% of the dust ended up on my in-laws terrace. 
• When I came to an end, I didn't hold the router firmly enough.  It slipped towards me and the router bit was a few millimeters from hitting my leg.

When I re-did everything a week later all went fine, so I learned my lessons.

[jdbailey1206]

For example:

• I attached a guiding piece of wood with only double-sided tape.  It came off during the routing.

Xandnic I found that carpet tape works best for this.  But I feel your pain.  I made my template for my joystick and forgot to add my supporting pieces between the template and my CP and it took my dumb ass five minutes to figure out why the router wouldn't go anywhere.  Oh well.  Good start to your build.  Keep it up.

[xandnic]

Was this bought as a 12v supply and how many amps is it?
I was wondering as it probably would have fried some components down the line if you hadn't adjusted it
Did you give some thought to powering the Pololu controller directly from the PC's PSU - Not sure if that'll suck too much juice out of my system though; what do you think?

It's 12V 3.3A, so 40W.  I plan to use it to power the motor+controller, LED strip and possibly the amp.

I wouldn't worry about overloading the computer's PSU, but possibly about ripple and noise from the PSU.  But I'm no expert at all on that subject.

[xandnic]

I picked up the Pololu parts today:




Still waiting for the motor, it's being shipped from Hong Kong.

[xandnic]

First test run of the motor

[nanoflower]

First test run of the motor

I'm watching you 

It looks interesting, will you be using limiter switches to stop it?
By the way, FedEx really slapped my wrists on the Pololu parts.
I received my motor controller in December and about 4 weeks later they invoiced me for the import taxes

/nano