Chad's gameroom project - Drywall hanging / subfloor complete + new pics

[mcseforsale]

I'd cover the entire floor with socks.  It'd be wicked!

AJ

[ChadTower]

Never wash socks again!  Wear them once and then just throw them onto the gameroom floor.

[CoryBee]

Wash your carpet with phosphates and watch it shine! 

[DaOld Man]

This is my first viewing of this thread, and I must say great job so far Chad.
I like the exposed ceiling, but its got to be a lot of work painting all those pipes.
I wasnt real keen on the UV carpet idea until I saw some samples that you posted.

[Le Chuck]

Pick a nice neutral carpet. Empty room. Fill palm spreader with detergent. Seed carpet with Tide. Capet smells good and now floureses. Profit. #win.

[ChadTower]

Thanks, DaOld Man.  I appreciate that.  Wiring is well underway now, as my spare time permits, so pics will be forthcoming soon.

I still have enough time to test Le Chuck's idea.  We did put some liquid Tide into shot glasses to see it glow.     Interestingly only the surface of the liquid would glow even when a foot away from the tubes.  The light did not penetrate the surface of the liquid at all.

[Le Chuck]

Thanks, DaOld Man.  I appreciate that.  Wiring is well underway now, as my spare time permits, so pics will be forthcoming soon.

I still have enough time to test Le Chuck's idea.  We did put some liquid Tide into shot glasses to see it glow.     Interestingly only the surface of the liquid would glow even when a foot away from the tubes.  The light did not penetrate the surface of the liquid at all.

It does.  [great story bro]A guy in my hall in college painted his dorm room black and threw detergent on it while wet.  Detergent imbedded in paint.  Whole room glowed like the milky way.  Chicks just left their panties in the hall.[/great story bro]

[ChadTower]

He threw powder into the black paint?

Hell, someone should have told me about that before I painted the ceiling!   

[spoot]

That F14 Tomcat pinball machine must be in your way alot while remodeling........I'll "store" it for you.   

[ChadTower]

MAJOR UPDATE! 

Get your popcorn ready! 

[ChadTower]

We now have lights!

First, a distance shot of some of the new wiring.  Sorry about the fact that my camera phone isn't good indoors in low light.   




Now, a little detail.  Originally this was all raw cement slab.  There was one piece of wood hanging from a joist that had one outlet on it.  This was a 20A circuit with just that one outlet so I decided to use that line for lighting and a couple of the outlets for games.

Here is where the old wiring joins with what I've added in.  I removed the outlet, put in the junction box, and you can see the first quad outlet box here. 

[ChadTower]

The wiring runs along the wall from there into this area.  Here you see the lighting controls.  The left box is two dimmer switches - one for each half of this side of the basement.  The main support beam for the upstairs separates the two halves pretty well so that you really can light one up and the other stays mostly dark.  The cool thing about this dimmer switch type is that when you hit on or off it slowly raises or lowers the light like in a theater.  Combined with the flat black ceiling it has a theatrical feel that I'm starting to really dig.  The normal light switch on the right controls two black ceiling outlets you'll see in a couple of pics.  The black shop lights that I will install between joists plug into those outlets.  This setup gives me full control of two zones of track lights plus on/off control of black lights across both zones.  The two upper junction boxes are after the switches to branch the switched lines into two places each.  The lower junction boxes are where the primary circuit line branches off and enters the light switches.




This is a different angle on the corner showing the second quad outlet box.  This circuit ends there.  There will be more quad outlet boxes along that wall but they will be on a new 20A circuit.  The layout with these boxes should allow me two vids and two pins here.  The new circuit will be enough for four more pins (five if they are early SS) for a total of six/seven along that wall.

[ChadTower]

Now let's see the lighting!  The near (to the switches) side of the basement has two black 8' tracks.  The far side has two 4' tracks.  There is too much ducting on the other side for 8' tracks, sadly.  We are short on light heads at the moment because Lowes only had 5 of the type we are using.  I have to say I LOVE the versatility of dimmed track lights here.  I can add heads, move heads, re-aim the heads, and dim the zones.  I should be able to find a really cool balance here.  I have also noticed that with the black lights on and the tracks dimmed really low the carpet samples really pop but you can still see enough to get around safely.

[ChadTower]

Okay, and in the final couple pics here, we see the black outlets I put into the ceiling for the black shop lights for the black lights (is that black enough?)  These outlets are controlled by the light switch mentioned above.

[ChadTower]

The wiring is kind of gaudy in contrast with the black but I can fix that after I have my inspections done.  I still need to do the second circuit, then pull permits, and have it inspected before I can paint the wiring like I did the old wiring.  Hopefully this wire paints as well as the old wire did.  The new insulation is a lot more plastic and I could see paint deciding not to stick that well.

[Hoopz]

Congrats but I think the bigger issue is that you have a phone with a camera.  Could it, by chance, be a cellular device?  Miracles do indeed happen, if so.

)

[ChadTower]

Congrats but I think the bigger issue is that you have a phone with a camera.  Could it, by chance, be a cellular device?  Miracles do indeed happen, if so.

  )

Heh, yeah, I had to get a smartphone for business reasons about a year ago.  I wasn't happy about it but I have come to peace with it.  I rarely answer the stupid thing.  I mostly use it for monitoring certain functions of my job and Facebook.   

[DaOld Man]

Looking good Chad!

[eds1275]

Are you using 12 guage wire and 20 amp circuits?

[ChadTower]

Are you using 12 guage wire and 20 amp circuits?

For sure.  20A outlets and switches too, of course, except the dimmers.  Those are rated at 500W load each and can only be used on dedicated branches.  Once I go to LED instead of halogen there is pretty much no way I'll ever get to 500W on either dimmer.

I was a little annoyed to see the old outlet I removed was 15A on a 20A circuit.  Why bother running a circuit for only one outlet and then underrate the outlet?   

[sac01]

Hey Chad, looking good.  Are those all junction boxes im seeing on the framework?  Last I knew you can't put any kind of electrical junction boxes in a place that will be permanantly covered by finish material (drywall, etc) per codes.  Of course if you are not getting inspected, carry on

[TopJimmyCooks]

The junction boxes on the framing need to be turned so the cover can be accessed after the walls are paneled/sheetrocked. 

[ChadTower]

The junction boxes on the framing need to be turned so the cover can be accessed after the walls are paneled/sheetrocked.

A friend mentioned that to me a week ago.  I haven't had the chance to put much time in on this due to the holidays so it's still open.  I can make this change, I think, since it's just turning and moving an inch or two forward.

Does anyone know why that is required?  Is that so you don't accidentally drive a nail or something into the junction box?

[TopJimmyCooks]

Electrical code-have to be able to access the wire nuts.  For nail and screw protection, the wires should be in the middle third of the stud.  Closer to the surface and you need to install nail plates to protect them.   The inspector may question the number of receptacles on a circuit as well.  If you know an electrician have them take a look to avoid failing inspection.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

[ChadTower]

Okay, thanks.  I don't think I'll have an issue with the hole placement.  They're all pretty much in the middle. 

If I knew an electrician I wouldn't be learning this on the fly.   

This is why project threads rock.  20 sets of eyes are better than 1.   

[TopJimmyCooks]

All cables coming out of boxes need to have a staple close to the box.  in your first pic there are some runs that go from box to box without being stapled to the stud between.  Obviously, when you turn the metal junction boxes you'll have to redo the short wires going from box to box to go through a knockout in the box itself, you cant have holes in the cover.  In any metal box, make sure you've connected the ground wire to the green screw in the box with a pigtail.  make sure you don't have too many wires for the given size of box (couple look suspicious)  There are charts around of how many wires/gauges per cubic inch sized box.  Usually metal boxes are not used with romex (plastic sheathed wire).  you might call the inspector /ask electrician if that is an issue.  If it is, easy enough to change to plastic nail on boxes like you used with your switches and receptacles. 

You will need to make an electrician friend -- even in your own house you usually can't pull an electrical permit without being licensed.  I.e. you can work on your house without a license, but you have to hire a plumber/electrician/hvac man with a license for that trade work.  When you do call for the rough in inspection,  make sure the breaker is off for the new work and have alternate lighting (flashlight is ok).  Take the covers off the boxes.  They may not like that the devices are already installed, but plead ignorance and have a screwdriver ready to start taking them off.  They'll be cool if you respect their Authoritai.   Since you have devices and lights installed, they might just give you a final pass if everything looks good. 

[ChadTower]

You will need to make an electrician friend -- even in your own house you usually can't pull an electrical permit without being licensed.  I.e. you can work on your house without a license, but you have to hire a plumber/electrician/hvac man with a license for that trade work.

Cool, thanks for all the tips.   

There aren't really that many things in those boxes, they're just branches with one going in and two coming out.  I think I'm going to eat the time and eliminate them.  It might mean redoing a couple of runs but it's the right way to do it.  I think the orientation of the boxes is the only thing you've mentioned that I did not do properly (unless the metal boxes are also wrong).

In MA a homeowner can pull a permit so I'm good there.  I do know that I'm going to have to disassemble some things so the inspector can see the terminations.  I wanted to ensure it all actually works before having it inspected. 

[floriske.nl]

Nice project! wish we had a basement or spare garage to use as mancave instead of our 3d floor with sloped roof

I just can't seem to get used to the way you guys are allowed to build and wire stuff over there 

This would never ever pass inspection over here (Netherlands) and in case of an electrical fire the insurance wouldn't pay for sure.

Over here all wiring running inside a wall, behind sheetrock or in floors and ceilings has to run through pvc piping. Loose cables  are only allowed in cable ducts, in some situations behind false ceilings (in which case they have to be clamped every 30cm) and in plain sight (same 30cm rule).

All sockets in new installations or expansions have to be grounded.

Max number of outlets and fittings on a 16A group in a 3 group installation is 18.

Etc.

Big advantage of the piping though is that it's very easy to add or replace wiring. (Few weeks back i've grounded all outlets in a friends older house built while regulations only required ground in kitchen and bathroom in only a few hours for instance)

[TOK]

Cool, thanks for all the tips.   

There aren't really that many things in those boxes, they're just branches with one going in and two coming out.  I think I'm going to eat the time and eliminate them.  It might mean redoing a couple of runs but it's the right way to do it.  I think the orientation of the boxes is the only thing you've mentioned that I did not do properly (unless the metal boxes are also wrong).

In MA a homeowner can pull a permit so I'm good there.  I do know that I'm going to have to disassemble some things so the inspector can see the terminations.  I wanted to ensure it all actually works before having it inspected. 

I think its a smart move to eliminate them so you don't have hidden splices or random double blank plates all over the walls. I put mine up above the ceiling (which has a small attic) instead of in the walls. Even if yours are up high without a ceiling, I don't think they'd be really noticeable.

[ChadTower]

I agree now that I know they shouldn't be there.  I'm going to redo it between Xmas and New Year's.  I have the week off so I should have time.  One or two long run cables will have to be replaced but it's all open so I'll just man up and get it done.  It's the learning process that I love the most about stuff like this so let's just chalk this one up to education, fix it, and move on.   

[ChadTower]

Okay, now that the holidays are over and I get a little bit of spare time between my son's hockey practices, I got the chance to eliminate those boxes.  Had to redo a couple of runs to make it happen.

The upper box on the left was a metal box.  Yeah, it's in a weird spot, but that's where the old wiring meets the new, and it would have been an entirely different effort to avoid anything at all in that spot.




There were four boxes in this area before around the dimmer switches.  Now there are none and most of the branching is done inside that quad box.  That is the most pigtailing I've ever done in one box.




A shot of this whole wall.  There is one more quad box around the corner from here and I'm still in the process of wiring up three more quad boxes on a separate circuit along that wall. 



Thanks for the advice on the boxes, guys.  It's better this way now.

[ChadTower]

Quick progress note.

Electrical permit pulled and will be requesting rough inspection in a week or so.

[Nephasth]

Not knocking the wiring Chad, but am I the only one that thinks it's crazy to run wires through vertical studs like that? I'm no electrician, and am not up with the codes, but when I was finishing my dad's basement I ran the wires over the tops of the wall frames. I'd hate to be drilling/screwing/nailing into a stud and hit one of those.

More progress!

[Gray_Area]

Not knocking the wiring Chad, but am I the only one that thinks it's crazy to run wires through vertical studs like that? I'm no electrician, and am not up with the codes, but when I was finishing my dad's basement I ran the wires over the tops of the wall frames. I'd hate to be drilling/screwing/nailing into a stud and hit one of those.

More progress!

That makes sense. And you could put them in a strip bed, so if one was bad or something, you wouldn't have to mess with the tangle.

[ChadTower]

I would have had to run the wires on the backside of the studs to avoid being in the studs.  If you look at the top of that wall the horizontal piece is directly attached perpendicular to the joists.  The only other option would have been drilling holes in the joists to run the cables through there.

I don't pretend to know why this is the preferred method.  I copied the wiring on the other side of the basement and that was done by licensed electricans a few years ago.  The outlets and wiring are all at the min heights they used.

[Nephasth]

Don't know how your joists are... The ones in my dad's basement (house was built in '95) have precut knockout holes in them. Quick hit with a hammer, and you've got a nice hole to run some wires through.

[ChadTower]

My joists are solid wooden 2x8 lumber from the 1950s.

[eds1275]

It looks good to me, though the outlets are upside down. I don't think you'll fail for that.

[mcseforsale]

There's no code specifying the orientation.  Most hospitals use the ground-up method so if equipment is tripped over, the power is the least likely thing to get lost, or if something falls onto the cord at the outlet, it would hit ground first.

It does look weird, though. 

AJ

It looks good to me, though the outlets are upside down. I don't think you'll fail for that.

[ChadTower]

Heh.  They are all like that in my house.  I just followed the convention.