Author Topic: Midway Pac-Man Cocktail Build (5/30/12 Update - Finished) (Read 33563 times)

CWorley · « **on:** November 23, 2011, 11:13:23 pm »

Hey guys, been reading this forum for a while and was finally able to start a project of my own. I decided on a Midway style cocktail table for a couple reasons. First, there were very detailed plans to follow thanks to Kyle Lindstrom. I wanted to keep things as simple as possible. The second reason is I’ve wanted one since I was a kid, so there ya go.

To keep it simple and costs down, I decided to use dedicated 4-ways on each CP with on one pushbutton on each CP as well. The P1 CP will have the usual Midway tiny start buttons as well along with a third for a coin button. This setup will be enough to play a number of the classic verticals.

I chose to go with a Pac-Man theme. I’m hoping in the end it’ll look very similar to the old Pac-Man cocktail with a few changes. For one, I’ll be modifying the original CP overlays to include the added pushbutton.

The construction of the cabinet has stayed very close to KL’s plans except for a few things. First, the fan and speaker placement is a bit different due to the speakers and fans I’m using. I also wasn’t a fan of the rectangular vents. The top of the table was also modified to agree with the LCD I’m using.

Basic Info:

Sticks: GGG Leaf-Pro 4-Ways (2)
Buttons: GGG Groovy Soft Touch (2)
Midway Start Buttons via Twisted Quarter (3)
Monitor: Dell Ultrasharp FP2007 20” LCD
Input: Ultimarc IPAC via ArcadeEmulator.net

Plywood is the building material of choice, and it was stained.

Coin door, glass top, and other wiring supplies ordered from Twisted Quarter
Metal control panels ordered from ArcadeDepot.com
Pac-Man underlay ordered from TwoBits.com
White and smoked grey plexi ordered from TAP Plastics
Leg levelers, grilles, and lamps ordered from Bob Roberts

At this point in the building process, my dad and I are working on construction of the top of the cab along with staining everything below the top.

I've attached some pics of before and after the staining.

Any comments/suggestions/thoughts are appreciated.

Unstupid · « **Reply #1 on:** November 24, 2011, 12:28:30 am »

Very Cool! Questions. What is the smoked gray plexi for? Did you paint the inside of the cabinet? Why?

mgb · « **Reply #2 on:** November 24, 2011, 09:27:53 am »

Everythings looking great.
I love tasteful projects like this.

Gaaargh · « **Reply #3 on:** November 24, 2011, 10:09:41 am »

Looks like you're off to a nice start.

CWorley · « **Reply #4 on:** November 24, 2011, 11:22:31 am »

Unstupid,

The smoked plexi will go over the monitor, under the glass. This info came from opt2not in another thread:

"Smoked plexi gives you better contrast between lights and darks.
Blacks look darker, lines look clearer (without that monitor fuzzy blur from the lit phosphors), and colors tend to "bleed" less.
It is also great for hiding your monitor shroud, and gives the image a floating feeling."

If I don't like how it looks, I won't use it. It's not a necessity.

There is no really good reason why we painted the inside black, besides preferring that to nothing at all. If I come up with something better, I'll let ya know.

opt2not · « **Reply #5 on:** November 24, 2011, 05:52:20 pm »

For the glass top, is the Twisted Quarter one silk-screened? Or is it just the glass itself, and you'll have to get you own artwork underlay?
Reason why I ask is because Phoenix Arcade has just released silk-screened repros of Pacman glass-tops, and they look pretty awesome.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=210239

Very nice looking so far.

Love the stained plywood choice...I'll be definitely watching this thread!

cw · « **Reply #6 on:** November 24, 2011, 06:17:40 pm »

I have a few extra plexi pieces for the control panels if you need a couple. They are new ones that I had cut when I needed a set. Just cover a few bucks to ship them and they are yours..

CWorley · « **Reply #7 on:** November 24, 2011, 09:07:35 pm »

opt2not,

The Twisted Quarter cocktail glass is not silk-screened. I picked up a Pac-Man underlay from TwoBits to go under the glass. The silk-screened repros from Phoenix Arcade are amazing though. Might have gone that way if I had known, but it would also up the budget.

cw,

Are you talking about the white plexi behind the control panels? If so, I have few pieces already. Thanks though.

Gaaargh · « **Reply #8 on:** November 24, 2011, 11:12:49 pm »

Quote from: cw on November 24, 2011, 06:17:40 pm

I have a few extra plexi pieces for the control panels if you need a couple. They are new ones that I had cut when I needed a set. Just cover a few bucks to ship them and they are yours..

If CWorley's not interested in those, I'd be interested if you'd be willing to send them to Canada.

cw · « **Reply #9 on:** November 25, 2011, 02:35:04 pm »

can do...

CWorley · « **Reply #10 on:** November 27, 2011, 08:14:28 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

Currently, the top of the cabinet is being worked on. The hole for the monitor is cut along with the curves at each end above the control panels. The next step is working on the support to hold the monitor in place against the top of the cabinet.

I've added some pics. Enjoy.

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #11 on:** November 28, 2011, 09:16:14 am »

That top looks great!

What was your method for those curves- saw or router, etc?

Gaaargh · « **Reply #12 on:** November 28, 2011, 10:05:46 am »

Nice work!

CWorley · « **Reply #13 on:** November 28, 2011, 07:52:44 pm »

Thanks guys!

Quote from: thefearsomefearful on November 28, 2011, 09:16:14 am

That top looks great! What was your method for those curves- saw or router, etc?

We used a saw for the top.

CWorley · « **Reply #14 on:** November 29, 2011, 10:27:20 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

The support that holds the monitor to the top of the table is completed. We basically used piece of wood with a hinge on one side and a latch on the other to hold the LCD in place.

The top of the table was created with a piece of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 1/4" plywood glued together. The monitor square on the bottom half (3/4") was cut just big enough for the monitor to fit in. The monitor square on the top half (1/4") was cut smaller to only show the monitor's screen.

The LCD fits right into the top of the table and is held in place by the support. It'll be simple enough to remove the monitor if needed.

I've attached some pics of the support latch.

Enjoy...

Unstupid · « **Reply #15 on:** November 29, 2011, 11:31:48 pm »

Do you still have enough space to put the lights for the control panels?

CWorley · « **Reply #16 on:** November 29, 2011, 11:49:42 pm »

Quote from: Unstupid on November 29, 2011, 11:31:48 pm

Do you still have enough space to put the lights for the control panels?

It'll be tight, but I think there's room. If not, we'll flank them to the left and right of both ends. We'll make it work.

CWorley · « **Reply #17 on:** November 30, 2011, 08:50:32 am »

I've got a question on the control panel overlays. Once I get them ordered, receive them, and drill the holes; is the process as simple as attaching the overlay to the top of the metal control panels? Is there something I put over the top of the overlays? I just want to make sure I'm not missing a step.

Thanks!

CWorley · « **Reply #18 on:** November 30, 2011, 06:52:35 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

Now getting ready to install the leg levelers (thank you Bob Roberts)...

CWorley · « **Reply #19 on:** December 05, 2011, 07:38:29 am »

:::UPDATE:::

Finished installing the leg levelers on the cab (included some pics).

Trap · « **Reply #20 on:** December 05, 2011, 05:04:28 pm »

Looking great, man.

CWorley · « **Reply #21 on:** December 09, 2011, 12:08:58 am »

:::UPDATE:::

Some of t-molding has been put on, the coin door added, and the speakers installed. I've attached some pics.

Enjoy!

Unstupid · « **Reply #22 on:** December 09, 2011, 05:40:21 am »

For the bottom of the control panel I notice you are using wood. Are you going to use wood for the front and top of the control panels as well?

dandare · « **Reply #23 on:** December 09, 2011, 05:55:35 am »

He's got metal control panels (flash

!)

Seriously. Great work dude, the wood stain looks fantastic!

CWorley · « **Reply #24 on:** December 09, 2011, 07:49:09 am »

Quote from: Unstupid on December 09, 2011, 05:40:21 am

For the bottom of the control panel I notice you are using wood. Are you going to use wood for the front and top of the control panels as well?

I bought a couple 11in blank metal control panels from arcadedepot. Work on the CPs is on hold until the overlay art is finished and they can be drilled.

Gaaargh · « **Reply #25 on:** December 09, 2011, 10:19:50 am »

It's looking great!

Where did you put the seam in the t-molding for the top piece?

CWorley · « **Reply #26 on:** December 09, 2011, 10:24:54 am »

Quote from: Gaaargh on December 09, 2011, 10:19:50 am

It's looking great!

Where did you put the seam in the t-molding for the top piece?

We haven't installed the 1" t-molding for the top piece yet. My initial thought is that we'll try and place the seam near one of the backside corners so that it it covered by one of the glass clips and probably facing a wall.

CWorley · « **Reply #27 on:** December 10, 2011, 08:13:56 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

A fan w/ grill has been added to each side of the cabinet. While I think the speakers look fine, I'd like to add a grill to them as well. I haven't been able to find a grill that is small enough though. We might have to make one ourselves. At the moment, one fan is intake and the other outtake. I'm gonna remove the sticker from the outtake fan as I like the all black look.

I've attached several pics of where we're at right now with the cabinet.

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #28 on:** December 12, 2011, 09:46:23 am »

Finally found some small speaker grills here:
http://www.electronicplus.com/images/products/RBR-3SD.jpg

Will be painting the red ring black...

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #29 on:** December 14, 2011, 08:45:47 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

The 1" t-molding has been added to the top of the cabinet. I've attached some pics.

Enjoy...

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #30 on:** December 14, 2011, 09:03:38 pm »

Looks great!

CWorley · « **Reply #31 on:** December 20, 2011, 11:53:54 am »

What do you all think of the cp overlays that I've attached? A friend of mine is helping me out with them, and I'm trying to get them finalized.

Any suggestions/thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #32 on:** December 20, 2011, 06:53:47 pm »

I would eliminate the mounting bolts and go with a hidden mount or flushmount countersunk bolts on the CP then black out the bolt holes. I think it will will give you a really sharp appearance. The art itself is classic and retro and fits the theme so no worries there. The whole build is stellar and I can't wait to see more.

If you don't like the plain black background (I do by the way) you could PS in a pac-man board onto the back in a super dark grey, faded out a bit, so that it gives it some texture and stays with the theme but I think that you have the best answer already.

CWorley · « **Reply #33 on:** December 21, 2011, 11:55:01 am »

Quote from: Le Chuck on December 20, 2011, 06:53:47 pm

I would eliminate the mounting bolts and go with a hidden mount or flushmount countersunk bolts on the CP then black out the bolt holes. I think it will will give you a really sharp appearance. The art itself is classic and retro and fits the theme so no worries there. The whole build is stellar and I can't wait to see more.

If you don't like the plain black background (I do by the way) you could PS in a pac-man board onto the back in a super dark grey, faded out a bit, so that it gives it some texture and stays with the theme but I think that you have the best answer already.

Thanks for the advice Le Chuck! Could you post some pictures or examples of projects who used the hidden mount or flushmount countersunk bolts? I'll do some searching as well.

My only concern with the artwork is the placement of the two start buttons and coin button on the p1 cp. I'm considering placing the coin button closer to the other two so that they're all the same distance apart. Then centering the group. Any thoughts?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #34 on:** December 21, 2011, 12:32:54 pm »

I'm working on one right now actually

DARCADE

You can see a different way using wood blanks by Yaksplat here, which links to his blog and has a fairly good how to. There are a ton of ways to skin this cat if it's the way you want to go.

Sorry for the quick edit, I had to look at your art again. I don't think you need to group them, but just eyeballing it the P1 joy is more to the right than the P2 joy. I would shrink the P1 pac-man enough to get those holes lined up, this should give you a little more standoff from you P1 and P2 button graphics which could fix the spacing issues that are bothering you. Play around with it.

CWorley · « **Reply #35 on:** December 23, 2011, 10:16:36 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on December 21, 2011, 12:32:54 pm

I'm working on one right now actually DARCADE

You can see a different way using wood blanks by Yaksplat here, which links to his blog and has a fairly good how to. There are a ton of ways to skin this cat if it's the way you want to go.

Sorry for the quick edit, I had to look at your art again. I don't think you need to group them, but just eyeballing it the P1 joy is more to the right than the P2 joy. I would shrink the P1 pac-man enough to get those holes lined up, this should give you a little more standoff from you P1 and P2 button graphics which could fix the spacing issues that are bothering you. Play around with it.

Le Chuck,

Are your two alternative mounting ideas possible with a metal cp, which I'll be using for this project?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #36 on:** December 24, 2011, 02:05:24 am »

The flush-mount bolts are totally workable with a metal cp. That's what I originally designed then wussed out and went with wood. All you do is put the mounting plates right under the CP and mark your mounting holes for drilling. If you are feeling really froggy you can mark the bolt holes then have bolt shafts tac-welded to the bottom so you just screw it on. It's be done here by MGB.

CWorley · « **Reply #37 on:** December 25, 2011, 10:10:23 pm »

Quote from: CWorley on December 12, 2011, 09:46:23 am

Finally found some small speaker grills here:
http://www.electronicplus.com/images/products/RBR-3SD.jpg

Will be painting the red ring black...

Cheers!

I've attached a couple pics of what the cab looks like with the aforementioned speaker grills installed.

mgb · « **Reply #38 on:** December 26, 2011, 09:04:21 pm »

Progress is looking real nice

CWorley · « **Reply #39 on:** December 27, 2011, 04:18:32 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on December 24, 2011, 02:05:24 am

The flush-mount bolts are totally workable with a metal cp. That's what I originally designed then wussed out and went with wood. All you do is put the mounting plates right under the CP and mark your mounting holes for drilling. If you are feeling really froggy you can mark the bolt holes then have bolt shafts tac-welded to the bottom so you just screw it on. It's be done here by MGB.

I like the idea of tac-welding bolt shafts to the bottom of the control panel. It'll depend on whether I can find someone capable of doing that.

Gaaargh · « **Reply #40 on:** December 30, 2011, 12:34:52 pm »

Quote from: CWorley on November 29, 2011, 10:27:20 pm

:::UPDATE:::

The support that holds the monitor to the top of the table is completed. We basically used piece of wood with a hinge on one side and a latch on the other to hold the LCD in place.

The top of the table was created with a piece of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 1/4" plywood glued together. The monitor square on the bottom half (3/4") was cut just big enough for the monitor to fit in. The monitor square on the top half (1/4") was cut smaller to only show the monitor's screen.

The LCD fits right into the top of the table and is held in place by the support. It'll be simple enough to remove the monitor if needed.

I've attached some pics of the support latch.

Enjoy...

I'm stealing this idea.

CWorley · « **Reply #41 on:** January 20, 2012, 07:45:48 pm »

I believe the art for the control panel overlays is finished thanks to a friend of mine. I've attached both overlays below.

The next step will be to send these off to www.gameongrafix.com

I decided to keep it simple and go with bolts for the joysticks. Welding just isn't in the cards right now. Maybe on a future cabinet...

Any thoughts on the overlays? I think they're ready to go.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #42 on:** January 20, 2012, 08:01:56 pm »

Just don't forget to mount washers on top of the mounting bracket so you have room to get the dust washer below the art. Be a shame to cover up those arrows.

CWorley · « **Reply #43 on:** January 20, 2012, 09:11:19 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on January 20, 2012, 08:01:56 pm

Just don't forget to mount washers on top of the mounting bracket so you have room to get the dust washer below the art. Be a shame to cover up those arrows.

Noted. I was already planning to use washers since the 4-way restrictor plate on the GGG Leaf-Pro joystick is slightly higher than the mounting bracket. Definitely planning on having the dust washer underneath the panel.

CWorley · « **Reply #44 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:21:26 am »

Control panel overlays have been passed on to gameongrafix.com for printing.

Looking forward to finally working on the CPs.

Any advice for drilling through metal?

Should I wait for the finished overlays before drilling, or would the mock overlays I printed out on plain paper to scale work just as well?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #45 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:30:26 am »

I always use mock overlays. Only time I go to kinkos, they can do b&w plotter prints of CPs for under a buck. Works great. I would mark centerpoints on the overlay then use a punch to get you started, a nice sharp bit and good cutting oil. Fast drill, low pressure, and it should cut cleanly through.

Nephasth · « **Reply #46 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:42:47 am »

Quote from: Le Chuck on January 24, 2012, 08:30:26 am

Fast drill, low pressure, and it should cut cleanly through.

I've always had better results drilling metal at lower RPMs. Saves wear on the drill bits as well. When I was working in a manufacturing plant, we used paint thinner as a drilling lubricant. Much to my surprise, the bits tended to stay much cooler using paint thinner vs. drilling oil.

Quote from: CWorley on January 24, 2012, 08:21:26 am

Any advice for drilling through metal?

Always start your holes with a small bit. It will help you stay on your center punches when drilling your first hole, and help keep your larger holes centered when you drill those.

opt2not · « **Reply #47 on:** January 24, 2012, 09:37:38 am »

If you can find them, I highly recommend getting yourself a knockout hole-punch instead of using a hole saw. You get a much cleaner result with less fuss. They're extremely simple to use as well.
I remember harbour freight having them at one point.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #48 on:** January 24, 2012, 01:58:51 pm »

Paint thinner huh? Never would have thought of that? Any particular kind? How did you handle fume management?

Nephasth · « **Reply #49 on:** January 24, 2012, 02:24:03 pm »

No particular kind of paint thinner, we had it in bulk. Fume management? There was none. The amount used was just a squirt or two on the bit. We kept it in bottles similar to this but larger. Made it easy to squirt right where it was needed.

CWorley · « **Reply #50 on:** January 28, 2012, 04:02:43 pm »

Currently working on getting the metal control panels drilled...

I've attached a pic of the two control panel overlays that I received today from gameongrafix.com. Can't wait to get these on!

What is the best way to attach the overlays? Peel off the back entirely and stick it on or peel off as you stick it on?

Cheers!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #51 on:** January 28, 2012, 04:16:05 pm »

I do a full peel and a wet application but always interested to hear other's methods.

CWorley · « **Reply #52 on:** January 29, 2012, 05:25:27 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on January 28, 2012, 04:16:05 pm

I do a full peel and a wet application but always interested to hear other's methods.

Could you expand on your method? The gameongrafix website doesn't recommend using water with the installation.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #53 on:** January 29, 2012, 05:39:35 pm »

Get a spray bottle and put one small drop of dish soap in and fill the rest with room temp water.

Start separating the decal at one corner and pull it back slowly, keeping the adhesive wet as you go. Just spray lightly, you don't want to soak it.

Wet the cab surface with the same solution mixed previously and position the decal. At this point you can tug the corners as necessary and slide the decal into place as its floating on a thin layer of water.

Spray the top of the decal with a light mist then using a firm rubber or plastic scrapper/squeegee work from the middle out to the edges. Use a towel to dry the spillage as you go. Overlap your strokes by 50% and if you get an air bubble you just can't move ---tallywhacker--- it once with a needle and work it flat using the squeegee.

Be sure to really work the edges and ensure all the solution is out so the adhesive will bind properly.

Let dry 24 hrs at room temperature for full adhesion.

----

This is considered a technique for those new to vinyl. The pros do a dry app. The above method is what I have used on all my cabs for the past 8 years. I've never had the minerals to just lay it out and start peeling while laying it down. More power to those who can do this and get great results, that said I haven't had a decal peel yet and I haven't had a wrinkly or improperly positioned decal yet.

CWorley · « **Reply #54 on:** January 30, 2012, 02:52:59 pm »

For a metal control panel, do I need to use primer before I put on the control panel art?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #55 on:** January 30, 2012, 04:51:53 pm »

Got me there, I'd say yes but I'd be talking out of my fourth point of contact. As long as it is free of all oils then no?

mgb · « **Reply #56 on:** January 30, 2012, 05:37:00 pm »

My control panel is metal. I primed and painted it black before applying art.
I just think its better that way, but alot of the metal factory control panels were not painted first.

CWorley · « **Reply #57 on:** January 30, 2012, 05:45:45 pm »

Here are the control panels that I have:
http://www.arcadedepot.com/HTML/control_panels.html

Since they've already been painted, I'm not sure if I should mess with them any further before application?

mgb · « **Reply #58 on:** January 30, 2012, 05:52:02 pm »

I wouldn't think so. just make sure its nice and clean and your artwork should stick fine.

opt2not · « **Reply #59 on:** January 30, 2012, 06:42:23 pm »

Quote from: mgb on January 30, 2012, 05:52:02 pm

I wouldn't think so. just make sure its nice and clean and your artwork should stick fine.

Aye. I picked up similar panels and I didn't bother painting them since they're already sealed. That's my main concern with painting metal before applying overlays -- sealing them from moisture so that rust build-up won't happen. That way you protect your panel for longevity, as well as the overlay from bulging from rust accumulation.

Can't wait to see your wiring!
I am currently in the process of JAMMA-tizing my cocktail, and have just finished re-wiring my CP's.
Trying to keep it all as clean as possible, just like your project. So fresh, so clean!

CWorley · « **Reply #60 on:** January 31, 2012, 10:09:50 am »

Quote from: opt2not on January 30, 2012, 06:42:23 pm

Quote from: mgb on January 30, 2012, 05:52:02 pm
I wouldn't think so. just make sure its nice and clean and your artwork should stick fine.
Aye. I picked up similar panels and I didn't bother painting them since they're already sealed. That's my main concern with painting metal before applying overlays -- sealing them from moisture so that rust build-up won't happen. That way you protect your panel for longevity, as well as the overlay from bulging from rust accumulation.

Can't wait to see your wiring!
I am currently in the process of JAMMA-tizing my cocktail, and have just finished re-wiring my CP's.
Trying to keep it all as clean as possible, just like your project. So fresh, so clean!

Any wiring tips? This will be my first crack at wiring a control panel. Where should I place the IPAC? My current plan is to place it on the cabinet floor in the center by the decased computer.

mgb · « **Reply #61 on:** January 31, 2012, 11:22:56 am »

You should fine either putting on the floor or the sidewall. I assume you'll be using pcb feet.

On my cab, I installed my ipac on the sidewall and I also used disconnects like the real arcade machines always used.

like these:

So all of my player one controls go to one disconnect and all of my player two lines go to another. This way its easier if I have to remove my cp for repair.

also have you gotten your wire yet? If I may suggest a little cost/time saver. I used the jamma harness from jammaboards.com, its only $10 and already has all the wires made up with crimps and the signal common loops. I think it makes for a real nice install. just cut off the end that would normally plug into a jamma board.
http://www.jammaboards.com/store/jamma-full-cabinet-wiring-harness-loom/prod_146.html

CWorley · « **Reply #62 on:** January 31, 2012, 12:09:44 pm »

Quote from: mgb on January 31, 2012, 11:22:56 am

You should fine either putting on the floor or the sidewall. I assume you'll be using pcb feet.

On my cab, I installed my ipac on the sidewall and I also used disconnects like the real arcade machines always used.

like these:

So all of my player one controls go to one disconnect and all of my player two lines go to another. This way its easier if I have to remove my cp for repair.

also have you gotten your wire yet? If I may suggest a little cost/time saver. I used the jamma harness from jammaboards.com, its only $10 and already has all the wires made up with crimps and the signal common loops. I think it makes for a real nice install. just cut off the end that would normally plug into a jamma board.
http://www.jammaboards.com/store/jamma-full-cabinet-wiring-harness-loom/prod_146.html

I already purchased wire and connects from twistedquarter.com. Could you expand on how the disconnects you have pictured work? Where would I get them?

mgb · « **Reply #63 on:** January 31, 2012, 01:49:50 pm »

Yeah, I'm sorry. I didn't really explain that well.

You would still use the regular quick connects that push on to the switches for your joysticks and push buttons. The multipin connectors I showed would than go in line between the cp and the ipac.
So bassically, you would have a whip of wires from your player 1 controls to a female multipin connector and then you would have a whip from the player control inputs on the ipac to the male multipin connector and then do the same for the player 2 controls. That way if have to pull the whole cp out for some reason, you would just disconnect at the multipin connector.

You can get them in 3, 6, 9, 12 and 15 pin configurations from Radio Shack. Bob Roberts also has them as do most electronic suppliers. I've heard alot of people call them Molex connectors but I always see them made by Amp.

CWorley · « **Reply #64 on:** January 31, 2012, 03:06:21 pm »

Thanks for the info. I'll need a 9-pin connector for my player 1 panel and a 6-pin for my player 2 panel. It looks like there are three sizes of molex connectors (0.062in, 0.084in, and 0.092in). Which size should I be using?

opt2not · « **Reply #65 on:** January 31, 2012, 03:09:07 pm »

Quote from: mgb on January 31, 2012, 01:49:50 pm

You can get them in 3, 6, 9, 12 and 15 pin configurations from Radio Shack. Bob Roberts also has them as do most electronic suppliers. I've heard alot of people call them Molex connectors but I always see them made by Amp.

Twisted Quarter has them too.

Quote from: CWorley on January 31, 2012, 10:09:50 am

Any wiring tips?

1. When wiring quick-disconnects, don't bother using those plastic covers over the metal (the red cover in the pic below). They're cheap plastic that tend to be more of an annoyance than useful.
What I like to do is pull those off and use heat-shrink tubing instead. It makes it way easier to pull the connects off, and you're insulated as well.

2. Also, in the pic above, I use these black fasteners to hold the wires down and neatly feed my wires throughout the cabinet. You could also use these Cable tie mounts (white square things below) and feed cable ties through them to hold your cables. They have an adhesive backing (these are also found at TwistedQuarter).

3.I agree with mgb, I definitely recommend wiring up your panels so that you can remove them without having to destroy your wiring. Those Molex connectors are excellent in keeping tidy, you just have to keep mindful of what pins go to what. I do this in my cabinet as well, as shown below:

When pulling out the CPs, all I need to do is disconnect the two Molex connectors (one for my lights, one for the control connections), and unscrew my panel.

4. Properly ground your cabinet's metal parts. I've run my ground wire (green) throughout the cabinet, connected to all the metal parts. My grounding wire goes to earth-ground (connected through the wall plug) so I know I'm getting a proper ground throughout.

Hope this all helps.

CWorley · « **Reply #66 on:** February 03, 2012, 07:38:01 am »

Thanks guys for all the advice! Hoping to get at this in the next few days...

Kangum · « **Reply #67 on:** February 03, 2012, 03:27:29 pm »

I love how you did the monitor mount. Its a great idea and much better then the first horrendous try I did.

CWorley · « **Reply #68 on:** February 05, 2012, 06:58:41 pm »

Quote from: Kangum on February 03, 2012, 03:27:29 pm

I love how you did the monitor mount. Its a great idea and much better then the first horrendous try I did.

Thanks Kangum. I gave my dad an idea of what I wanted for the monitor mount, and he made it happen.

The control panels are now drilled. I've included a few pics. Will be applying the art soon.

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #69 on:** February 06, 2012, 10:37:36 am »

For anybody out there...

Regarding the joystick hole, does anybody try to cover the inside of the hole with some black paint to cover up the exposed metal (from drilling)?

I'm planning on putting the dust washer below the control panel, so it won't be able to cover it up.

mgb · « **Reply #70 on:** February 06, 2012, 01:00:56 pm »

I covered it up with paint. actually I think I drilled before painting but it best being touched up with paint rather than leaving it bare.

CWorley · « **Reply #71 on:** February 06, 2012, 11:09:51 pm »

The overlay for control panel 2 has been applied. I've attached a few pics.

Cheers!

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #72 on:** February 06, 2012, 11:59:42 pm »

Looks great- it is really coming together!

CWorley · « **Reply #73 on:** February 07, 2012, 10:35:58 pm »

Both overlays have now been applied. I've attached a pic with the pushbuttons installed.

We're currently looking for carriage bolts for the joysticks. Might have to enlist the help of the real Bob Roberts again...

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #74 on:** February 08, 2012, 10:50:25 am »

Ordering some of these black carriage bolts from the real Bob Roberts:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/8-32x1.5.jpg

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #75 on:** February 09, 2012, 08:56:54 am »

Well, the control panels are 99% complete if you don't count the wiring. The black screws currently being used for the joysticks will probably be replaced by the black carriage bolts that I just ordered. The dust washers also need to be replaced. The inside holes on them are too big for the smaller shafts of the GGG True Leaf Joysticks. I'm looking into making my own. At that point, I'll decide if I want them above or below the control panel. If they would be above, they'd be small enough not to cover any of the directional arrrows.

Wiring up the control panels and getting the software ready will be the next step when I have time.

I've attached some pics of the nearly finished control panels.

Cheers!

mgb · « **Reply #76 on:** February 09, 2012, 10:06:18 am »

I like the idea of black washers under the control panel. maybe washers from Sanwas would fit right.
Just a thought, but what if you put the black dust washers underneath the cp and then if you wanted something up top, you can put on small clear ones. I've seen these small clear ones somewhere but I can't remmember where.

Kangum · « **Reply #77 on:** February 16, 2012, 10:31:59 am »

any updates?

CWorley · « **Reply #78 on:** February 16, 2012, 11:10:18 am »

Quote from: Kangum on February 16, 2012, 10:31:59 am

any updates?

Not much to update at the moment. Haven't had a lot of time to work on the cab, but I'm currently trying to get the software finalized.

I hope to install the computer in the cab and start wiring everything in the next 3-4 weeks.

Is there some kind of Mame cab checklist as far as the software goes? I really want to make sure that everything is 99% ready before I put it in the cab.

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #79 on:** March 17, 2012, 09:56:48 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

About 99% finished with the software for the cabinet. Just need to use a shell program to boot right into Mala.

What is being worked on currently:

Installing the motherboard, psu, and hard drive
Installing the power jack, outlet box, and smart strip
Installing an intake fan at the bottom of the cabinet
Installing the power jack and outlet box
Installing the power button (I'm not sure where to put this. I'm using an extra Midway start button.)

I've attached a pic of the brackets being used to install the hard drive and the jig being used to install the psu.

Cheers!

g_block247 · « **Reply #80 on:** March 21, 2012, 04:58:52 pm »

The player one stick is EXACTLY what I want for 4 way games on MAME (with a second action button, or does anyone thing I would need a second button if I was strictly using it for the 80s classics)...how much did it cost in materials to make it???

CWorley · « **Reply #81 on:** March 21, 2012, 07:32:29 pm »

Quote from: g_block247 on March 21, 2012, 04:58:52 pm

The player one stick is EXACTLY what I want for 4 way games on MAME (with a second action button, or does anyone thing I would need a second button if I was strictly using it for the 80s classics)...how much did it cost in materials to make it???

I'm assuming you're talking about the entire player one panel. Here are some approximate costs:
Control Panel $28
4-way Joystick $18
Button $2
3 Start Buttons $9
Black Carriage Bolts $5
Overlays (2) $33

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #82 on:** March 23, 2012, 10:44:42 pm »

Added the IEC Power Jack Chassis Mount to the back of the cab.

Not sure whether to have the dust washer above or below the panel. What do you guys think? I've attached some pics.

Cheers!

Unstupid · « **Reply #83 on:** March 23, 2012, 11:57:22 pm »

I would have said below if your hole was nicer, but since pops drilled out the hole from a blank panel and exposed the unpainted metal on the edge, I'm going to say bottom. Unless of course if you were able to repowder coat or repaint the panel... it's hard to tell with such a small pic...

CWorley · « **Reply #84 on:** March 24, 2012, 01:18:39 am »

Quote from: Unstupid on March 23, 2012, 11:57:22 pm

I would have said below if your hole was nicer, but since pops drilled out the hole from a blank panel and exposed the unpainted metal on the edge, I'm going to say bottom. Unless of course if you were able to repowder coat or repaint the panel... it's hard to tell with such a small pic...

Definitely going to repaint the edge, so we'll see how it looks afterwards.

CWorley · « **Reply #85 on:** March 29, 2012, 12:17:21 am »

Installed the motherboard, hard drive, psu, intake fan, and power bar in the cabinet. Also added a fan filter for the intake so it doesn't pull any dust/hair from the floor.

Will be working on the interior outlet next.

I've attached a few pics.

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #86 on:** April 18, 2012, 09:07:14 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

Wired and installed the control panels.

Next up is wiring the control panels to the i-pac and testing all the connections...

I've attached some pics.

And for all you wiring gurus, look away.

Cheers!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #87 on:** April 18, 2012, 09:15:15 pm »

My eyes!!11!!!!1! What have you done???

Dude, looks fine to me, it's coming together wonderfully. This isn't the flashiest build out there but for some reason I keep coming back to this one hungry for updates. I think that it's tapping into that nostalgia on a level that a lot of the newer style builds just can't get to, including my own. Well done and keep it coming man.

It's gonna be gorgeous.

dandare · « **Reply #88 on:** April 19, 2012, 01:52:09 am »

Quote from: Le Chuck on April 18, 2012, 09:15:15 pm

My eyes!!11!!!!1! What have you done???

Dude, looks fine to me, it's coming together wonderfully. This isn't the flashiest build out there but for some reason I keep coming back to this one hungry for updates. I think that it's tapping into that nostalgia on a level that a lot of the newer style builds just can't get to, including my own. Well done and keep it coming man.

It's gonna be gorgeous.

Defo!

CWorley · « **Reply #89 on:** May 14, 2012, 10:58:47 pm »

Finally got a chance over the weekend to put most of the finishing touches on the cabinet:

Wired up the external power button w/ led (Thanks Paradise Arcade!)
Wired and installed the 6 lamps for the control panel and coin door
Confirmed that all the controls were working correctly
Put the top on with the monitor, plexi, graphics, and glass

The only things left to do are to put the glass clips on and set the pc to boot right into Mala. Gotta shine up the glass too.

I've included some pics of the 99% finished cabinet. I'll include some action shots, final thoughts, and thank yous soon.

Cheers!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #90 on:** May 14, 2012, 11:33:34 pm »

I have all these crazy ass cabinet builds floating around my thick skull but when I check out this thread I think I should just clone yours. This has turned out great, so classic. Well done man.

Get some video up of it being enjoyed, great build.

CWorley · « **Reply #91 on:** May 15, 2012, 07:35:38 am »

Quote from: Le Chuck on May 14, 2012, 11:33:34 pm

I have all these crazy ass cabinet builds floating around my thick skull but when I check out this thread I think I should just clone yours. This has turned out great, so classic. Well done man. Get some video up of it being enjoyed, great build.

Thanks Le Chuck! Appreciate it.

Nephasth · « **Reply #92 on:** May 15, 2012, 08:22:56 am »

Great job on this build!

yotsuya · « **Reply #93 on:** May 15, 2012, 10:30:39 am »

Outstanding!

CWorley · « **Reply #94 on:** May 15, 2012, 01:20:12 pm »

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Here are some thoughts on the cabinet now that almost everything is said and done:

The project took longer than I expected. Mostly because it was being built at my parents' place, which is 2.5 hours away. But also because my daughter Nora was born halfway through the process.
This hobby is really addicting. I'm already in the planning stages of my next project.
I'll definitely plan things out a bit more as far as purchasing components for my next build. I spent way too much on shipping ordering from several different places at several different times.
I wish I would have found a Midway coin door for the build. They definitely add a lot to the look. I've thought about finding one in the future and then doing some surgery on the cab to add it, but I'll probably leave things be. As they say in football, you never want to take points off the board.
If I would have known about the silk screened glass tops at Phoenix Arcade before I purchased my glass and art, I probably would have went that direction. It would have only been about $30 more.
If I had to make another one of these cabinets, I'd go with a CRT screen. Being new to the hobby, I wanted to keep it simple. Arcade monitors are expensive and decasing a tv or pc monitor makes me a little nervous.
U360s would have been nice for this build, but I couldn't justify their price on my first project.
It's crazy how much I learned building this cab. I feel much more confident planning my second.

Big thanks to all these people who helped me out or through some encouragement my way. Sorry if I forgot somebody.

(In no particular order):
Unstupid
Le Chuck
mgb
Gaaargh
opt2not
cw
thefearsomefearful
Trap
dandare
Nephasth
Kangum
yotsuya
kahlid74
pinballjim
Franco B
CheffoJeffo
RandyT
Dawgz Rule
TopJimmyCooks
nitz
DaOld Man
elkameleon
BobA
javeryh
ark_ader
paigeoliver

CWorley · « **Reply #95 on:** May 17, 2012, 10:56:41 am »

I've attached a pic from the top down. Need to shift four of the glass clips.

Next time I get a chance, I'll finish the software and take a bunch of pics - maybe a video.

Does anybody have suggestions for good cocktail seating options (stools, chairs, etc.)? They need to be wife approved.

Cheers!

elkameleon · « **Reply #96 on:** May 17, 2012, 11:10:40 am »

Looks awesome! I hope my project ends up with just a fraction of that panache!

Unstupid · « **Reply #97 on:** May 17, 2012, 11:53:22 am »

Quote from: CWorley on May 17, 2012, 10:56:41 am

Does anybody have suggestions for good cocktail seating options (stools, chairs, etc.)? They need to be wife approved.

You want something around 18"-19" to the top of the seat... I have been recently looking for a pair for my cocktail table... really you can just go down to Target/Ikea/ and pick any chair/stool off the shelf and it'll do fine... But... If your wife is really picky there are other options

Check out this website: http://www.dwr.com/category/dining/chairs.do?sortby=ourPicks&page=1 There are a few pages of pretty nice chairs there. Also be sure to check out their stools, especially the "Primary Pouf", they look freakin awesome! Those may function just as well for cocktail table seating. For my cocktail table I just orderred a couple of custom colored Saaranen end chairs, and only because I know a Knoll dealer and he got it for me at half prices on that page, even still, I had to lie to my wife about the price...

opt2not · « **Reply #98 on:** May 17, 2012, 02:54:45 pm »

Turned out beautiful!

Lets see the full cabinet (money shot) with it turned on!

CWorley · « **Reply #99 on:** May 17, 2012, 08:36:20 pm »

Thanks guys!

Quote from: opt2not on May 17, 2012, 02:54:45 pm

Turned out beautiful!

Lets see the full cabinet (money shot) with it turned on!

I'll take a bunch of photos of the finished product when I get a chance.

Quote from: elkameleon on May 17, 2012, 11:10:40 am

Looks awesome! I hope my project ends up with just a fraction of that panache!

Your Mario cab is turning out fantastic. I'm actually planning a mini project for my next go round.

Quote from: Unstupid on May 17, 2012, 11:53:22 am

Quote from: CWorley on May 17, 2012, 10:56:41 am
Does anybody have suggestions for good cocktail seating options (stools, chairs, etc.)? They need to be wife approved.
You want something around 18"-19" to the top of the seat... I have been recently looking for a pair for my cocktail table... really you can just go down to Target/Ikea/ and pick any chair/stool off the shelf and it'll do fine... But... If your wife is really picky there are other options Check out this website: http://www.dwr.com/category/dining/chairs.do?sortby=ourPicks&page=1 There are a few pages of pretty nice chairs there. Also be sure to check out their stools, especially the "Primary Pouf", they look freakin awesome! Those may function just as well for cocktail table seating. For my cocktail table I just orderred a couple of custom colored Saaranen end chairs, and only because I know a Knoll dealer and he got it for me at half prices on that page, even still, I had to lie to my wife about the price...

Those "Primary Pouf" stools do look sweet, but my wife would kill me if I spent anywhere near that much on stools for the cab. Target/Ikea will probably do the trick.

CWorley · « **Reply #100 on:** May 30, 2012, 08:21:57 pm »

Here are the final pics of the finished cab:

Cheers!

Unstupid · « **Reply #101 on:** May 30, 2012, 08:27:12 pm »

Awesome Job!

opt2not · « **Reply #102 on:** May 30, 2012, 08:43:13 pm »

So flippin' nice! Great job man!

CWorley · « **Reply #103 on:** May 31, 2012, 11:09:52 am »

Thanks guys!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #104 on:** May 31, 2012, 12:04:36 pm »

Christmas tree is up kinda early this year isn't it?

CWorley · « **Reply #105 on:** June 01, 2012, 05:00:21 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on May 31, 2012, 12:04:36 pm

Christmas tree is up kinda early this year isn't it?

The cab is at my parent's place at the moment. They have a fake tree and seem fine with leaving it up all year...

GIZMOGAMES · « **Reply #106 on:** June 02, 2012, 04:35:41 pm »

Gobsmacked

this looks like it belonged in the 80's and an awsome piece of nostalgia for any one remembering coctails

you have to go for a couple of Really comfertable memory foam barstools

something to compliment the staining

I do have a quick enquiry if you could pm me the answer would be apreciated

how did you cut out the holes

and again awsome work

BobA · « **Reply #107 on:** June 04, 2012, 03:17:03 pm »

Great looking completed pics. Nice to see a classic cab come together so cleanly. They may take up more room then a cabaret cab but the classic look makes them stand out.

wp34 · « **Reply #108 on:** January 28, 2013, 01:06:57 pm »

I don't know how I missed this one. I'm glad it was nominated 2012 UCA Award. This is a great build.


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news