Author Topic: Midway Pac-Man Cocktail Build (5/30/12 Update - Finished) (Read 33314 times)

Gaaargh · « **Reply #40 on:** December 30, 2011, 12:34:52 pm »

Quote from: CWorley on November 29, 2011, 10:27:20 pm

:::UPDATE:::

The support that holds the monitor to the top of the table is completed. We basically used piece of wood with a hinge on one side and a latch on the other to hold the LCD in place.

The top of the table was created with a piece of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 1/4" plywood glued together. The monitor square on the bottom half (3/4") was cut just big enough for the monitor to fit in. The monitor square on the top half (1/4") was cut smaller to only show the monitor's screen.

The LCD fits right into the top of the table and is held in place by the support. It'll be simple enough to remove the monitor if needed.

I've attached some pics of the support latch.

Enjoy...

I'm stealing this idea.

CWorley · « **Reply #41 on:** January 20, 2012, 07:45:48 pm »

I believe the art for the control panel overlays is finished thanks to a friend of mine. I've attached both overlays below.

The next step will be to send these off to www.gameongrafix.com

I decided to keep it simple and go with bolts for the joysticks. Welding just isn't in the cards right now. Maybe on a future cabinet...

Any thoughts on the overlays? I think they're ready to go.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #42 on:** January 20, 2012, 08:01:56 pm »

Just don't forget to mount washers on top of the mounting bracket so you have room to get the dust washer below the art. Be a shame to cover up those arrows.

CWorley · « **Reply #43 on:** January 20, 2012, 09:11:19 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on January 20, 2012, 08:01:56 pm

Just don't forget to mount washers on top of the mounting bracket so you have room to get the dust washer below the art. Be a shame to cover up those arrows.

Noted. I was already planning to use washers since the 4-way restrictor plate on the GGG Leaf-Pro joystick is slightly higher than the mounting bracket. Definitely planning on having the dust washer underneath the panel.

CWorley · « **Reply #44 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:21:26 am »

Control panel overlays have been passed on to gameongrafix.com for printing.

Looking forward to finally working on the CPs.

Any advice for drilling through metal?

Should I wait for the finished overlays before drilling, or would the mock overlays I printed out on plain paper to scale work just as well?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #45 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:30:26 am »

I always use mock overlays. Only time I go to kinkos, they can do b&w plotter prints of CPs for under a buck. Works great. I would mark centerpoints on the overlay then use a punch to get you started, a nice sharp bit and good cutting oil. Fast drill, low pressure, and it should cut cleanly through.

Nephasth · « **Reply #46 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:42:47 am »

Quote from: Le Chuck on January 24, 2012, 08:30:26 am

Fast drill, low pressure, and it should cut cleanly through.

I've always had better results drilling metal at lower RPMs. Saves wear on the drill bits as well. When I was working in a manufacturing plant, we used paint thinner as a drilling lubricant. Much to my surprise, the bits tended to stay much cooler using paint thinner vs. drilling oil.

Quote from: CWorley on January 24, 2012, 08:21:26 am

Any advice for drilling through metal?

Always start your holes with a small bit. It will help you stay on your center punches when drilling your first hole, and help keep your larger holes centered when you drill those.

opt2not · « **Reply #47 on:** January 24, 2012, 09:37:38 am »

If you can find them, I highly recommend getting yourself a knockout hole-punch instead of using a hole saw. You get a much cleaner result with less fuss. They're extremely simple to use as well.
I remember harbour freight having them at one point.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #48 on:** January 24, 2012, 01:58:51 pm »

Paint thinner huh? Never would have thought of that? Any particular kind? How did you handle fume management?

Nephasth · « **Reply #49 on:** January 24, 2012, 02:24:03 pm »

No particular kind of paint thinner, we had it in bulk. Fume management? There was none. The amount used was just a squirt or two on the bit. We kept it in bottles similar to this but larger. Made it easy to squirt right where it was needed.

CWorley · « **Reply #50 on:** January 28, 2012, 04:02:43 pm »

Currently working on getting the metal control panels drilled...

I've attached a pic of the two control panel overlays that I received today from gameongrafix.com. Can't wait to get these on!

What is the best way to attach the overlays? Peel off the back entirely and stick it on or peel off as you stick it on?

Cheers!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #51 on:** January 28, 2012, 04:16:05 pm »

I do a full peel and a wet application but always interested to hear other's methods.

CWorley · « **Reply #52 on:** January 29, 2012, 05:25:27 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on January 28, 2012, 04:16:05 pm

I do a full peel and a wet application but always interested to hear other's methods.

Could you expand on your method? The gameongrafix website doesn't recommend using water with the installation.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #53 on:** January 29, 2012, 05:39:35 pm »

Get a spray bottle and put one small drop of dish soap in and fill the rest with room temp water.

Start separating the decal at one corner and pull it back slowly, keeping the adhesive wet as you go. Just spray lightly, you don't want to soak it.

Wet the cab surface with the same solution mixed previously and position the decal. At this point you can tug the corners as necessary and slide the decal into place as its floating on a thin layer of water.

Spray the top of the decal with a light mist then using a firm rubber or plastic scrapper/squeegee work from the middle out to the edges. Use a towel to dry the spillage as you go. Overlap your strokes by 50% and if you get an air bubble you just can't move ---tallywhacker--- it once with a needle and work it flat using the squeegee.

Be sure to really work the edges and ensure all the solution is out so the adhesive will bind properly.

Let dry 24 hrs at room temperature for full adhesion.

----

This is considered a technique for those new to vinyl. The pros do a dry app. The above method is what I have used on all my cabs for the past 8 years. I've never had the minerals to just lay it out and start peeling while laying it down. More power to those who can do this and get great results, that said I haven't had a decal peel yet and I haven't had a wrinkly or improperly positioned decal yet.

CWorley · « **Reply #54 on:** January 30, 2012, 02:52:59 pm »

For a metal control panel, do I need to use primer before I put on the control panel art?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #55 on:** January 30, 2012, 04:51:53 pm »

Got me there, I'd say yes but I'd be talking out of my fourth point of contact. As long as it is free of all oils then no?

mgb · « **Reply #56 on:** January 30, 2012, 05:37:00 pm »

My control panel is metal. I primed and painted it black before applying art.
I just think its better that way, but alot of the metal factory control panels were not painted first.

CWorley · « **Reply #57 on:** January 30, 2012, 05:45:45 pm »

Here are the control panels that I have:
http://www.arcadedepot.com/HTML/control_panels.html

Since they've already been painted, I'm not sure if I should mess with them any further before application?

mgb · « **Reply #58 on:** January 30, 2012, 05:52:02 pm »

I wouldn't think so. just make sure its nice and clean and your artwork should stick fine.

opt2not · « **Reply #59 on:** January 30, 2012, 06:42:23 pm »

Quote from: mgb on January 30, 2012, 05:52:02 pm

I wouldn't think so. just make sure its nice and clean and your artwork should stick fine.

Aye. I picked up similar panels and I didn't bother painting them since they're already sealed. That's my main concern with painting metal before applying overlays -- sealing them from moisture so that rust build-up won't happen. That way you protect your panel for longevity, as well as the overlay from bulging from rust accumulation.

Can't wait to see your wiring!
I am currently in the process of JAMMA-tizing my cocktail, and have just finished re-wiring my CP's.
Trying to keep it all as clean as possible, just like your project. So fresh, so clean!

CWorley · « **Reply #60 on:** January 31, 2012, 10:09:50 am »

Quote from: opt2not on January 30, 2012, 06:42:23 pm

Quote from: mgb on January 30, 2012, 05:52:02 pm
I wouldn't think so. just make sure its nice and clean and your artwork should stick fine.
Aye. I picked up similar panels and I didn't bother painting them since they're already sealed. That's my main concern with painting metal before applying overlays -- sealing them from moisture so that rust build-up won't happen. That way you protect your panel for longevity, as well as the overlay from bulging from rust accumulation.

Can't wait to see your wiring!
I am currently in the process of JAMMA-tizing my cocktail, and have just finished re-wiring my CP's.
Trying to keep it all as clean as possible, just like your project. So fresh, so clean!

Any wiring tips? This will be my first crack at wiring a control panel. Where should I place the IPAC? My current plan is to place it on the cabinet floor in the center by the decased computer.

mgb · « **Reply #61 on:** January 31, 2012, 11:22:56 am »

You should fine either putting on the floor or the sidewall. I assume you'll be using pcb feet.

On my cab, I installed my ipac on the sidewall and I also used disconnects like the real arcade machines always used.

like these:

So all of my player one controls go to one disconnect and all of my player two lines go to another. This way its easier if I have to remove my cp for repair.

also have you gotten your wire yet? If I may suggest a little cost/time saver. I used the jamma harness from jammaboards.com, its only $10 and already has all the wires made up with crimps and the signal common loops. I think it makes for a real nice install. just cut off the end that would normally plug into a jamma board.
http://www.jammaboards.com/store/jamma-full-cabinet-wiring-harness-loom/prod_146.html

CWorley · « **Reply #62 on:** January 31, 2012, 12:09:44 pm »

Quote from: mgb on January 31, 2012, 11:22:56 am

You should fine either putting on the floor or the sidewall. I assume you'll be using pcb feet.

On my cab, I installed my ipac on the sidewall and I also used disconnects like the real arcade machines always used.

like these:

So all of my player one controls go to one disconnect and all of my player two lines go to another. This way its easier if I have to remove my cp for repair.

also have you gotten your wire yet? If I may suggest a little cost/time saver. I used the jamma harness from jammaboards.com, its only $10 and already has all the wires made up with crimps and the signal common loops. I think it makes for a real nice install. just cut off the end that would normally plug into a jamma board.
http://www.jammaboards.com/store/jamma-full-cabinet-wiring-harness-loom/prod_146.html

I already purchased wire and connects from twistedquarter.com. Could you expand on how the disconnects you have pictured work? Where would I get them?

mgb · « **Reply #63 on:** January 31, 2012, 01:49:50 pm »

Yeah, I'm sorry. I didn't really explain that well.

You would still use the regular quick connects that push on to the switches for your joysticks and push buttons. The multipin connectors I showed would than go in line between the cp and the ipac.
So bassically, you would have a whip of wires from your player 1 controls to a female multipin connector and then you would have a whip from the player control inputs on the ipac to the male multipin connector and then do the same for the player 2 controls. That way if have to pull the whole cp out for some reason, you would just disconnect at the multipin connector.

You can get them in 3, 6, 9, 12 and 15 pin configurations from Radio Shack. Bob Roberts also has them as do most electronic suppliers. I've heard alot of people call them Molex connectors but I always see them made by Amp.

CWorley · « **Reply #64 on:** January 31, 2012, 03:06:21 pm »

Thanks for the info. I'll need a 9-pin connector for my player 1 panel and a 6-pin for my player 2 panel. It looks like there are three sizes of molex connectors (0.062in, 0.084in, and 0.092in). Which size should I be using?

opt2not · « **Reply #65 on:** January 31, 2012, 03:09:07 pm »

Quote from: mgb on January 31, 2012, 01:49:50 pm

You can get them in 3, 6, 9, 12 and 15 pin configurations from Radio Shack. Bob Roberts also has them as do most electronic suppliers. I've heard alot of people call them Molex connectors but I always see them made by Amp.

Twisted Quarter has them too.

Quote from: CWorley on January 31, 2012, 10:09:50 am

Any wiring tips?

1. When wiring quick-disconnects, don't bother using those plastic covers over the metal (the red cover in the pic below). They're cheap plastic that tend to be more of an annoyance than useful.
What I like to do is pull those off and use heat-shrink tubing instead. It makes it way easier to pull the connects off, and you're insulated as well.

2. Also, in the pic above, I use these black fasteners to hold the wires down and neatly feed my wires throughout the cabinet. You could also use these Cable tie mounts (white square things below) and feed cable ties through them to hold your cables. They have an adhesive backing (these are also found at TwistedQuarter).

3.I agree with mgb, I definitely recommend wiring up your panels so that you can remove them without having to destroy your wiring. Those Molex connectors are excellent in keeping tidy, you just have to keep mindful of what pins go to what. I do this in my cabinet as well, as shown below:

When pulling out the CPs, all I need to do is disconnect the two Molex connectors (one for my lights, one for the control connections), and unscrew my panel.

4. Properly ground your cabinet's metal parts. I've run my ground wire (green) throughout the cabinet, connected to all the metal parts. My grounding wire goes to earth-ground (connected through the wall plug) so I know I'm getting a proper ground throughout.

Hope this all helps.

CWorley · « **Reply #66 on:** February 03, 2012, 07:38:01 am »

Thanks guys for all the advice! Hoping to get at this in the next few days...

Kangum · « **Reply #67 on:** February 03, 2012, 03:27:29 pm »

I love how you did the monitor mount. Its a great idea and much better then the first horrendous try I did.

CWorley · « **Reply #68 on:** February 05, 2012, 06:58:41 pm »

Quote from: Kangum on February 03, 2012, 03:27:29 pm

I love how you did the monitor mount. Its a great idea and much better then the first horrendous try I did.

Thanks Kangum. I gave my dad an idea of what I wanted for the monitor mount, and he made it happen.

The control panels are now drilled. I've included a few pics. Will be applying the art soon.

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #69 on:** February 06, 2012, 10:37:36 am »

For anybody out there...

Regarding the joystick hole, does anybody try to cover the inside of the hole with some black paint to cover up the exposed metal (from drilling)?

I'm planning on putting the dust washer below the control panel, so it won't be able to cover it up.

mgb · « **Reply #70 on:** February 06, 2012, 01:00:56 pm »

I covered it up with paint. actually I think I drilled before painting but it best being touched up with paint rather than leaving it bare.

CWorley · « **Reply #71 on:** February 06, 2012, 11:09:51 pm »

The overlay for control panel 2 has been applied. I've attached a few pics.

Cheers!

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #72 on:** February 06, 2012, 11:59:42 pm »

Looks great- it is really coming together!

CWorley · « **Reply #73 on:** February 07, 2012, 10:35:58 pm »

Both overlays have now been applied. I've attached a pic with the pushbuttons installed.

We're currently looking for carriage bolts for the joysticks. Might have to enlist the help of the real Bob Roberts again...

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #74 on:** February 08, 2012, 10:50:25 am »

Ordering some of these black carriage bolts from the real Bob Roberts:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/8-32x1.5.jpg

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #75 on:** February 09, 2012, 08:56:54 am »

Well, the control panels are 99% complete if you don't count the wiring. The black screws currently being used for the joysticks will probably be replaced by the black carriage bolts that I just ordered. The dust washers also need to be replaced. The inside holes on them are too big for the smaller shafts of the GGG True Leaf Joysticks. I'm looking into making my own. At that point, I'll decide if I want them above or below the control panel. If they would be above, they'd be small enough not to cover any of the directional arrrows.

Wiring up the control panels and getting the software ready will be the next step when I have time.

I've attached some pics of the nearly finished control panels.

Cheers!

mgb · « **Reply #76 on:** February 09, 2012, 10:06:18 am »

I like the idea of black washers under the control panel. maybe washers from Sanwas would fit right.
Just a thought, but what if you put the black dust washers underneath the cp and then if you wanted something up top, you can put on small clear ones. I've seen these small clear ones somewhere but I can't remmember where.

Kangum · « **Reply #77 on:** February 16, 2012, 10:31:59 am »

any updates?

CWorley · « **Reply #78 on:** February 16, 2012, 11:10:18 am »

Quote from: Kangum on February 16, 2012, 10:31:59 am

any updates?

Not much to update at the moment. Haven't had a lot of time to work on the cab, but I'm currently trying to get the software finalized.

I hope to install the computer in the cab and start wiring everything in the next 3-4 weeks.

Is there some kind of Mame cab checklist as far as the software goes? I really want to make sure that everything is 99% ready before I put it in the cab.

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #79 on:** March 17, 2012, 09:56:48 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

About 99% finished with the software for the cabinet. Just need to use a shell program to boot right into Mala.

What is being worked on currently:

Installing the motherboard, psu, and hard drive
Installing the power jack, outlet box, and smart strip
Installing an intake fan at the bottom of the cabinet
Installing the power jack and outlet box
Installing the power button (I'm not sure where to put this. I'm using an extra Midway start button.)

I've attached a pic of the brackets being used to install the hard drive and the jig being used to install the psu.

Cheers!


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Author Topic: Midway Pac-Man Cocktail Build (5/30/12 Update - Finished) (Read 33314 times)

Nephasth

Nephasth