Author Topic: Midway Pac-Man Cocktail Build (5/30/12 Update - Finished) (Read 33419 times)

CWorley · « **on:** November 23, 2011, 11:13:23 pm »

Hey guys, been reading this forum for a while and was finally able to start a project of my own. I decided on a Midway style cocktail table for a couple reasons. First, there were very detailed plans to follow thanks to Kyle Lindstrom. I wanted to keep things as simple as possible. The second reason is I’ve wanted one since I was a kid, so there ya go.

To keep it simple and costs down, I decided to use dedicated 4-ways on each CP with on one pushbutton on each CP as well. The P1 CP will have the usual Midway tiny start buttons as well along with a third for a coin button. This setup will be enough to play a number of the classic verticals.

I chose to go with a Pac-Man theme. I’m hoping in the end it’ll look very similar to the old Pac-Man cocktail with a few changes. For one, I’ll be modifying the original CP overlays to include the added pushbutton.

The construction of the cabinet has stayed very close to KL’s plans except for a few things. First, the fan and speaker placement is a bit different due to the speakers and fans I’m using. I also wasn’t a fan of the rectangular vents. The top of the table was also modified to agree with the LCD I’m using.

Basic Info:

Sticks: GGG Leaf-Pro 4-Ways (2)
Buttons: GGG Groovy Soft Touch (2)
Midway Start Buttons via Twisted Quarter (3)
Monitor: Dell Ultrasharp FP2007 20” LCD
Input: Ultimarc IPAC via ArcadeEmulator.net

Plywood is the building material of choice, and it was stained.

Coin door, glass top, and other wiring supplies ordered from Twisted Quarter
Metal control panels ordered from ArcadeDepot.com
Pac-Man underlay ordered from TwoBits.com
White and smoked grey plexi ordered from TAP Plastics
Leg levelers, grilles, and lamps ordered from Bob Roberts

At this point in the building process, my dad and I are working on construction of the top of the cab along with staining everything below the top.

I've attached some pics of before and after the staining.

Any comments/suggestions/thoughts are appreciated.

Unstupid · « **Reply #1 on:** November 24, 2011, 12:28:30 am »

Very Cool! Questions. What is the smoked gray plexi for? Did you paint the inside of the cabinet? Why?

mgb · « **Reply #2 on:** November 24, 2011, 09:27:53 am »

Everythings looking great.
I love tasteful projects like this.

Gaaargh · « **Reply #3 on:** November 24, 2011, 10:09:41 am »

Looks like you're off to a nice start.

CWorley · « **Reply #4 on:** November 24, 2011, 11:22:31 am »

Unstupid,

The smoked plexi will go over the monitor, under the glass. This info came from opt2not in another thread:

"Smoked plexi gives you better contrast between lights and darks.
Blacks look darker, lines look clearer (without that monitor fuzzy blur from the lit phosphors), and colors tend to "bleed" less.
It is also great for hiding your monitor shroud, and gives the image a floating feeling."

If I don't like how it looks, I won't use it. It's not a necessity.

There is no really good reason why we painted the inside black, besides preferring that to nothing at all. If I come up with something better, I'll let ya know.

opt2not · « **Reply #5 on:** November 24, 2011, 05:52:20 pm »

For the glass top, is the Twisted Quarter one silk-screened? Or is it just the glass itself, and you'll have to get you own artwork underlay?
Reason why I ask is because Phoenix Arcade has just released silk-screened repros of Pacman glass-tops, and they look pretty awesome.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=210239

Very nice looking so far.

Love the stained plywood choice...I'll be definitely watching this thread!

cw · « **Reply #6 on:** November 24, 2011, 06:17:40 pm »

I have a few extra plexi pieces for the control panels if you need a couple. They are new ones that I had cut when I needed a set. Just cover a few bucks to ship them and they are yours..

CWorley · « **Reply #7 on:** November 24, 2011, 09:07:35 pm »

opt2not,

The Twisted Quarter cocktail glass is not silk-screened. I picked up a Pac-Man underlay from TwoBits to go under the glass. The silk-screened repros from Phoenix Arcade are amazing though. Might have gone that way if I had known, but it would also up the budget.

cw,

Are you talking about the white plexi behind the control panels? If so, I have few pieces already. Thanks though.

Gaaargh · « **Reply #8 on:** November 24, 2011, 11:12:49 pm »

Quote from: cw on November 24, 2011, 06:17:40 pm

I have a few extra plexi pieces for the control panels if you need a couple. They are new ones that I had cut when I needed a set. Just cover a few bucks to ship them and they are yours..

If CWorley's not interested in those, I'd be interested if you'd be willing to send them to Canada.

cw · « **Reply #9 on:** November 25, 2011, 02:35:04 pm »

can do...

CWorley · « **Reply #10 on:** November 27, 2011, 08:14:28 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

Currently, the top of the cabinet is being worked on. The hole for the monitor is cut along with the curves at each end above the control panels. The next step is working on the support to hold the monitor in place against the top of the cabinet.

I've added some pics. Enjoy.

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #11 on:** November 28, 2011, 09:16:14 am »

That top looks great!

What was your method for those curves- saw or router, etc?

Gaaargh · « **Reply #12 on:** November 28, 2011, 10:05:46 am »

Nice work!

CWorley · « **Reply #13 on:** November 28, 2011, 07:52:44 pm »

Thanks guys!

Quote from: thefearsomefearful on November 28, 2011, 09:16:14 am

That top looks great! What was your method for those curves- saw or router, etc?

We used a saw for the top.

CWorley · « **Reply #14 on:** November 29, 2011, 10:27:20 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

The support that holds the monitor to the top of the table is completed. We basically used piece of wood with a hinge on one side and a latch on the other to hold the LCD in place.

The top of the table was created with a piece of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 1/4" plywood glued together. The monitor square on the bottom half (3/4") was cut just big enough for the monitor to fit in. The monitor square on the top half (1/4") was cut smaller to only show the monitor's screen.

The LCD fits right into the top of the table and is held in place by the support. It'll be simple enough to remove the monitor if needed.

I've attached some pics of the support latch.

Enjoy...

Unstupid · « **Reply #15 on:** November 29, 2011, 11:31:48 pm »

Do you still have enough space to put the lights for the control panels?

CWorley · « **Reply #16 on:** November 29, 2011, 11:49:42 pm »

Quote from: Unstupid on November 29, 2011, 11:31:48 pm

Do you still have enough space to put the lights for the control panels?

It'll be tight, but I think there's room. If not, we'll flank them to the left and right of both ends. We'll make it work.

CWorley · « **Reply #17 on:** November 30, 2011, 08:50:32 am »

I've got a question on the control panel overlays. Once I get them ordered, receive them, and drill the holes; is the process as simple as attaching the overlay to the top of the metal control panels? Is there something I put over the top of the overlays? I just want to make sure I'm not missing a step.

Thanks!

CWorley · « **Reply #18 on:** November 30, 2011, 06:52:35 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

Now getting ready to install the leg levelers (thank you Bob Roberts)...

CWorley · « **Reply #19 on:** December 05, 2011, 07:38:29 am »

:::UPDATE:::

Finished installing the leg levelers on the cab (included some pics).

Trap · « **Reply #20 on:** December 05, 2011, 05:04:28 pm »

Looking great, man.

CWorley · « **Reply #21 on:** December 09, 2011, 12:08:58 am »

:::UPDATE:::

Some of t-molding has been put on, the coin door added, and the speakers installed. I've attached some pics.

Enjoy!

Unstupid · « **Reply #22 on:** December 09, 2011, 05:40:21 am »

For the bottom of the control panel I notice you are using wood. Are you going to use wood for the front and top of the control panels as well?

dandare · « **Reply #23 on:** December 09, 2011, 05:55:35 am »

He's got metal control panels (flash

!)

Seriously. Great work dude, the wood stain looks fantastic!

CWorley · « **Reply #24 on:** December 09, 2011, 07:49:09 am »

Quote from: Unstupid on December 09, 2011, 05:40:21 am

For the bottom of the control panel I notice you are using wood. Are you going to use wood for the front and top of the control panels as well?

I bought a couple 11in blank metal control panels from arcadedepot. Work on the CPs is on hold until the overlay art is finished and they can be drilled.

Gaaargh · « **Reply #25 on:** December 09, 2011, 10:19:50 am »

It's looking great!

Where did you put the seam in the t-molding for the top piece?

CWorley · « **Reply #26 on:** December 09, 2011, 10:24:54 am »

Quote from: Gaaargh on December 09, 2011, 10:19:50 am

It's looking great!

Where did you put the seam in the t-molding for the top piece?

We haven't installed the 1" t-molding for the top piece yet. My initial thought is that we'll try and place the seam near one of the backside corners so that it it covered by one of the glass clips and probably facing a wall.

CWorley · « **Reply #27 on:** December 10, 2011, 08:13:56 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

A fan w/ grill has been added to each side of the cabinet. While I think the speakers look fine, I'd like to add a grill to them as well. I haven't been able to find a grill that is small enough though. We might have to make one ourselves. At the moment, one fan is intake and the other outtake. I'm gonna remove the sticker from the outtake fan as I like the all black look.

I've attached several pics of where we're at right now with the cabinet.

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #28 on:** December 12, 2011, 09:46:23 am »

Finally found some small speaker grills here:
http://www.electronicplus.com/images/products/RBR-3SD.jpg

Will be painting the red ring black...

Cheers!

CWorley · « **Reply #29 on:** December 14, 2011, 08:45:47 pm »

:::UPDATE:::

The 1" t-molding has been added to the top of the cabinet. I've attached some pics.

Enjoy...

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #30 on:** December 14, 2011, 09:03:38 pm »

Looks great!

CWorley · « **Reply #31 on:** December 20, 2011, 11:53:54 am »

What do you all think of the cp overlays that I've attached? A friend of mine is helping me out with them, and I'm trying to get them finalized.

Any suggestions/thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #32 on:** December 20, 2011, 06:53:47 pm »

I would eliminate the mounting bolts and go with a hidden mount or flushmount countersunk bolts on the CP then black out the bolt holes. I think it will will give you a really sharp appearance. The art itself is classic and retro and fits the theme so no worries there. The whole build is stellar and I can't wait to see more.

If you don't like the plain black background (I do by the way) you could PS in a pac-man board onto the back in a super dark grey, faded out a bit, so that it gives it some texture and stays with the theme but I think that you have the best answer already.

CWorley · « **Reply #33 on:** December 21, 2011, 11:55:01 am »

Quote from: Le Chuck on December 20, 2011, 06:53:47 pm

I would eliminate the mounting bolts and go with a hidden mount or flushmount countersunk bolts on the CP then black out the bolt holes. I think it will will give you a really sharp appearance. The art itself is classic and retro and fits the theme so no worries there. The whole build is stellar and I can't wait to see more.

If you don't like the plain black background (I do by the way) you could PS in a pac-man board onto the back in a super dark grey, faded out a bit, so that it gives it some texture and stays with the theme but I think that you have the best answer already.

Thanks for the advice Le Chuck! Could you post some pictures or examples of projects who used the hidden mount or flushmount countersunk bolts? I'll do some searching as well.

My only concern with the artwork is the placement of the two start buttons and coin button on the p1 cp. I'm considering placing the coin button closer to the other two so that they're all the same distance apart. Then centering the group. Any thoughts?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #34 on:** December 21, 2011, 12:32:54 pm »

I'm working on one right now actually

DARCADE

You can see a different way using wood blanks by Yaksplat here, which links to his blog and has a fairly good how to. There are a ton of ways to skin this cat if it's the way you want to go.

Sorry for the quick edit, I had to look at your art again. I don't think you need to group them, but just eyeballing it the P1 joy is more to the right than the P2 joy. I would shrink the P1 pac-man enough to get those holes lined up, this should give you a little more standoff from you P1 and P2 button graphics which could fix the spacing issues that are bothering you. Play around with it.

CWorley · « **Reply #35 on:** December 23, 2011, 10:16:36 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on December 21, 2011, 12:32:54 pm

I'm working on one right now actually DARCADE

You can see a different way using wood blanks by Yaksplat here, which links to his blog and has a fairly good how to. There are a ton of ways to skin this cat if it's the way you want to go.

Sorry for the quick edit, I had to look at your art again. I don't think you need to group them, but just eyeballing it the P1 joy is more to the right than the P2 joy. I would shrink the P1 pac-man enough to get those holes lined up, this should give you a little more standoff from you P1 and P2 button graphics which could fix the spacing issues that are bothering you. Play around with it.

Le Chuck,

Are your two alternative mounting ideas possible with a metal cp, which I'll be using for this project?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #36 on:** December 24, 2011, 02:05:24 am »

The flush-mount bolts are totally workable with a metal cp. That's what I originally designed then wussed out and went with wood. All you do is put the mounting plates right under the CP and mark your mounting holes for drilling. If you are feeling really froggy you can mark the bolt holes then have bolt shafts tac-welded to the bottom so you just screw it on. It's be done here by MGB.

CWorley · « **Reply #37 on:** December 25, 2011, 10:10:23 pm »

Quote from: CWorley on December 12, 2011, 09:46:23 am

Finally found some small speaker grills here:
http://www.electronicplus.com/images/products/RBR-3SD.jpg

Will be painting the red ring black...

Cheers!

I've attached a couple pics of what the cab looks like with the aforementioned speaker grills installed.

mgb · « **Reply #38 on:** December 26, 2011, 09:04:21 pm »

Progress is looking real nice

CWorley · « **Reply #39 on:** December 27, 2011, 04:18:32 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on December 24, 2011, 02:05:24 am

The flush-mount bolts are totally workable with a metal cp. That's what I originally designed then wussed out and went with wood. All you do is put the mounting plates right under the CP and mark your mounting holes for drilling. If you are feeling really froggy you can mark the bolt holes then have bolt shafts tac-welded to the bottom so you just screw it on. It's be done here by MGB.

I like the idea of tac-welding bolt shafts to the bottom of the control panel. It'll depend on whether I can find someone capable of doing that.


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