Insert Coffee - Circuit problems

[P-chan]

Really outstanding.  The LEDs, the moving table top, everything looks great.

Honestly, I wouldn't spend another second on noise reduction, believe me, the noise will be drowned out by people OOhing and AAHing over the screen and LEDs.

[Mental]

Really impressed by your woodworking skill. Can't wait to see how this turns out!

As far as controls go, I always thought the drawer mechanism for the Surface Tension table was pretty slick...

[EightBySix]

Thanks for the nice comments, it's good to think that there are other people out there following along.

As far as controls go, I always thought the drawer mechanism for the Surface Tension table was pretty slick...

Isn't it just! I studied it for a while actually when designing mine (shhh! - dont tell, I want to keep them sweet because I might be buying myself some of their coasters when I'm done). I couldnt use that kind of mechanism though because I set myself the design goal of keeping it as traditional as I could, and that type of drawer needs to be quite deep. Looks good on their table, but wouldnt fit mine.

Why not do what i was going to do. ( if its not too late.? )
As you pull out the control panel, the glass covered screen angles towards you 30 degrees giving you a more natural viewing position.

Good idea. Reminds me of some pop-up tables I saw like this. I'm wanting to keep as close as I can to a  classic cocktail though, with 2 players opposite each other.

I'm plodding on with the LEDs at the moment. It was no coincidence that the display said 'Test' 3 times. I've discovered that I need to write code to select each board in turn as the pixels overflow from one display to the next. I'm also writing code to have a proportional font. There are loads of these displays that use 8x8 fonts, or 8x5, but each letter takes up the same number of columns (I've been studying train departure boards, and shop signs like some sort of obsessive crazy person). I want an 'i' for example to be narrower. Makes better use of the limited space, and reads better imo.

If I get some shed time, I'll try and make a prototype CP drawer from cheaper wood (norm style  ). I've had enough of the sketchup procrastination and I think it will be better to man up and try out some ideas.

[Ond]

This is coming along very nicely, the LED display looks great with that veneer, I'll be getting some "shed time" this weekend so you better get busy fella!

[EightBySix]

Hmmm interesting. It's all in the timing. Announcing an update when Ond has progress to report is like arranging a picnic on superbowl sunday.
 

[EightBySix]

Bingo!

After much fiddling with wires and pouring over data sheets, I got each display to work independantly, and sorted the code to flow pixels from one display to the next


Also - check out the proportional font 

[AlienInferno]

I like that.  Looks really good.  Makes me want to make something electronical.  Hmmm.  What to make?  What to make?

[emphatic]

That stuff's the bomb! 

[EightBySix]

I've been busy thinking how the CP is going to work and decided to build a prototype in cheaper wood, to iron out any kinks before I commit to a design.

Picked up a 'cup pull' from a local ironmongers for £2.95. It was a good find - they are solid brass - the others I've seen cost more for brass plating. I like the traditional look of these, and they force you to hold the drawer in a way that supports it when it folds down.

Heres a pic with the drawer


And here is a pic with the drawer removed to show the internal support.

The back piece supports the drawer inside the table and is attached to the drawer via a continuous hinge. I'll be using a different type of hinge in the actual design, that will support it along the edges, leaving the top of the CP free so I can make it modular later.

This is how it looks folded out. It wont stay there by itself because I haven't built any drawer runners, but I secured it with a drawing pin and it was really solid. I'm relieved about that because its could have been wobbly which would have ruined the whole concept.


Here's another pic, with me messing about with player start buttons. They'll need to be set back a little to avoid hitting them with knuckles. Ultimately, I want  P1 & P2 to be capacitive buttons under the table glass - but thats a way off yet.


Oh and before you say anything - I know the stick and buttons are the wrong way around 
Thats the whole point of a prototype 

[Nephasth]

Bump for progress?

[EightBySix]

thanks for checking in... You're right, it has been a while.

When work is busy it can sap the creativity from you, don't you think?

Bits and bobs of progress, not much that's pic worthy though. I got some 6mm acrylic for the top and attached drawer slides to the top so it moves smoothly. Been concentrating on the drawer runners for the cp. I'm now busy putting off the dovetails for the cp front. 

I'm also trying to figure out what to do with the base of the table. I want to permanently fix it, to make a good sounding board for the surface inducing speakers, but then I'll have poor access to the internals. Currently trying out industrial Velcro on the top, so it's removable.

[drventure]

Nice. So the flat slab in back is what you'll have mounted to rails?

I like it! At first, I was wondering how you'd get the clearance to tilt it out, but that makesmuch more sense now.

The only other ? I have is how will you be routing the wiring? I don't see any obvious way to handle it. Just an exposed cable out the top of the CP? Surely not.

[PL1]

I'm also trying to figure out what to do with the base of the table. I want to permanently fix it, to make a good sounding board for the surface inducing speakers, but then I'll have poor access to the internals.

Would L-brackets and clip-on nutplates work?



Bottom view




Scott

[EightBySix]

Would L-brackets and clip-on nutplates

Yes, I think that would work well. You also reminded me that I shouldn't permanently fix the bottom to avoid cracks due to the wood shrinking and expanding!

[EightBySix]

So I've been putting this off for ages. 

I'm getting to the end of the wood I bought and a mistake might be costly.

After a few practice attempts on scrap I bit the bullet and I'm quite pleased with the results.

Here's some pics

First - I learned that its important to get the pieces all square and matched up, mainly so the marking up is accurate. Best way to do that is a plane and shooting board


All done


Measuring up and making the lines to cut to


Cutting the pins


Pins done. Did these angles by eye more or less. I think it adds to the hand made element if they are not perfect, factory looking joints.


Cutting the tails


Tails done


Fits nicely 


Repeated on the other side. Had a small breakout on one of the pins, but turned it around so it will be on the inside and no one will ever know 

Glad to have got this done. I wanted to fit the internals around the drawer rather than vice-versa, so I can make better progress now. I'll post soon with the internal construction and support for the monitor etc.

[drventure]

Nice job with the dovetails!

[emphatic]

Amazing!

[EightBySix]

Now I got the hard bit done with the CP, I can start to assemble the inside of the table.

Here is an animation of the process.

[drventure]

Nice animation.

That's going to be a sweet table.

[Yvan256]

Very nice progress on your arcade coffee table! 

Have you thought about using the LED display for pinball games? It's probably not high-resolution enough, I'm just throwing the idea out there.

[EightBySix]

Have you thought about using the LED display for pinball games? It's probably not high-resolution enough, I'm just throwing the idea out there.

That's an interesting idea - I suspect the computer I'm putting inside wont have the legs for pinball though.

I did think it might be cool to draw a chess board on the screen, and use real pieces on it, using the LED to display the computer's moves....

All stuff for Phase II 

[Arturius]

Just read the whole thread, awesome work you have done there mate! - Cant let SWMBO see this or I will loose planning permission for the upright I want to build!

[EightBySix]

Cant let SWMBO see this or I will loose planning permission for the upright I want to build!

Yes, the Wife acceptance factor was a big design consideration 

Thanks for reading... I've got some more updates to post this weekend

[EightBySix]

Spent some time on the CP today. The prototype had a piano hinge along the entire length. Can't do that on the real thing as I want the top to be free, so I can swap it out for different configurations (I have a thing for robotron).

Spent ages looking for some brass backflap hinges (shorter along the hinged side) to give the CP good support.

Spent £25 on 4 of these 


Then very carefully chopped out a recess for them


Fitted the hinges and then attached the part that slides along the bottom drawer runner. This shows the CP drawer upside down. The batons stop the drawer when its being pulled out at the right place to fold down. The brass catch stops it from lifting off the bottom drawer runner


The removable top panel fits on like this


Finished


Been asked a couple of times how the wiring will work. I use a 6mm piece of ply on the back piece of the assembly, and rebated a thin channel:


I then thread some ribbon cable through it to hook up to the controls. More wires than I need, but thought I would have some 'reserved for future use


Time to start wiring up...

[emphatic]

Awesome! 

[EightBySix]

I've given myself a deadline to try and finish this by Christmas. Now most of the woodworking is done, I can progress this in the house, so its not so disruptive to family time.
I decided to buy myself an iPac. I originally wanted to make one, but I'd rather just get moving on the build.

So whilst I was wating for delivery, I had time to put a base into the table - just 6mm oak veneered ply. The idea of that is to act as a decent surface for my 'transducer' speakers.

But now there is a base I can start filling it up with the internals, so progress has jumped ahead. Couldnt resist a little trial wire up to see how it comes together, and I'm really pleased. The screen is lovely and bright at this viewing angle angle, and the controls are just right for the hight they are used whilst sitting on a sofa.

Here are some pics of me having a go putting it together before the components settle into their final places.

Testing the iPac


Testing the monitor after it has been bumped around and in and out of a cold damp shed. Still works - phew!


Putting things back together to see how it will look


Still far from ready - but I had a chance to play it, such a good feeling after all the preparation!

[rablack97]

 

[Drnick]

That looks beautiful. A solid fully functional table that converts into arcade goodness.    Is the round mark on the left hand panel in the wood itself?  It looks like a paint can or something was stood on it.

[EightBySix]

Its a watermark from the bottom of a plate. Fairly superficial. I'm hoping it will dissappear when the table is sanded / varnished

[TopJimmyCooks]

Use the watermark removal product on it before you sand and finish or it will ghost through - ask how I know . . . . .

[EightBySix]

What watermark removal product? And..... How do you know? 

[GibsonRiddler]

One way to remove white water stains from wood is to use a hot iron on a smoothly-textured, lint-free cloth placed over the stain, iron very briefly (seconds), lift the cloth, and repeat until stain is gone.

[dextercf]

This here has GOT to win an award for build 2012. Atleast for the incredible woodwork and WAF!

[TopJimmyCooks]

I can't remember the product and I expect it would be different (US v/s UK) but I bought it in a home improvement store and it was specifically for pulling out the white material (salts?) that make the stain. 

I had previously done a tabletop that got some water marks on it, sanded and planed about a 1/16" off the top, thought I was ok, but I could still (barely) detect the drip marks after stain and poly. 

I've heard versions of the iron trick too-  I would check on some of the WW forums and see what the old timers recommend.  It's a wonderful project, I would hate to see it diminished by a fixable issue. 

[EightBySix]

I wasn't too worried about it, as I've yet to sand it down, but you guys have got me worried 

I've had a dig around some of my old haunt woodworking forums, and various  suggestions exist, from the iron and paper/cloth method, to pouring meths on it and setting it alight! I think my issue will be that the top panels are veneered mdf, so there isn't much to sand away. I think I'll recreate the problem on a piece of scrap and see if I an get it off that first.

On a better note, it was thoroughly play tested this weekend. It was my daughters birthday and we had family round. The fold down cp withstood 8yr olds and their high styling joystick flourishes after clearing levels on pac man. ( but I keep their coke glasses off it now, until I have finished the top at least  )

[dextercf]

Coke stains, pun intended! 😜

[rCadeGaming]

Wow, just read through this after talking to you in that other thread.  Amazing.

This one of the most interesting cabs I've seen in quite a while.  I like the little custom details like the coin mech and the LED's and the motorized table pieces.  Amazingly, it looks super practical too; and of course the woodwork is outstanding, looked forward to seeing it finished.

I'll be looking for you on the BYOAC awards ballot.

[EightBySix]

thank you for reading! Thanks also for the electronics advice. This forum is great, we have such a breadth of knowledge between us.

[EightBySix]

Good news - I got the water mark out. Got a piece of scrap and reproduced the mark on it. I managed to remove it with careful sanding. Have to be careful though - i suspect the veneer on the mdf as as thin as it possibly can be.

Repeated the process on the table top and it came out really nicely:


While I was there, I took the sharp corners and edges off - it suddenly feels nice to the touch and looks less factory fresh. I'm also mindful that I need to get a move on protecting the surface to avoid any more staining - it'll need to be sanded and prepared first.

Also - now I'm getting some 'testing' time in, the loud clicking of the buttons, amplified by the wooden box they are in, was starting to annoy me. I like buttons that have a click so I dont want to swap them out. I bought some acoustic foam whilst I was building the motor mechanism, and happened to buy extra whilst I was at it - so I cut some up to fit the cavity in the drawer.

Like this:


It's normally hidden with a piece of veneered ply:


It makes a huge difference! There is still an obvious click, but sounds muted - it gives the impression of a much better quality build - like the  difference in a car door between an expensive and cheap car - if that makes any sense at all 

Not cheap for what it is - but highly recommended.

[rCadeGaming]

Nice on the stain.

That's a JLF you're using right?  (Nice choice btw).  I think you can get some quieter microswitches than the stock ones to swap in pretty easily.  Probably the same with the buttons.

Also I noticed you've got the stick mounted pretty low in the panel, have you tried it a little higher?.  24mm from the top of the panel to the bottom of the ball is standard.  I figured that was your preference, or you need it clear something when folding away the panel, but I thought I'd ask.