Building an custom arcade from 1989 Midnight Resistance

[MedievalMan]

Yeah I'm starting to rethink the Plexi and might consider just the durable artwork as you suggested...
Agree metal would be ideal for this stick, but want to try to build myself with the wood

After trying to install the front mount restrictor kit on the  the U360 I discovered the  long handle threading doesn't fit the bat style handle, only the ball style :/

Looks like I'll need to order a couple black ball style tops (Andy has a bat style handle with the smaller thread, but only in red).... Hopefully can get those in quick

Matt

[mgb]

I fully agree on the metal panel. There is no better way, but with u360 top load restrictor thing-a-ma-jig, you need wood.
Still I'd recommend using polycarb vinly printed art from gameongrafix and forgetting about the acrylic.

[MedievalMan]

Harvey,

I like the hinge idea for the cp.  Do you just make sure there's plenty of slack for the USB cables from the encoders to the PC?  Anything else to in particular to consider?  Thanks.

[mgb]

Yes you'll need to make sure your wiring has a good amount of slack for when you open it.

here's an example of an open hinged panel. the wires have plenty of moving room

[harveybirdman]

MGB shows flawless execution of the concept.  Some well placed zip ties will keep the stress off the connections.

[PL1]

A few well placed loop clamps will help, too.


Scott

[MedievalMan]

MGB,
Thanks for the pic, that makes things much clearer!  I will try my best to do half as clean of job as yours.


On the software side, I'm mostly complete using a subset of the Hyperspin Project.
I decided to go with NES-N64 era console games and all of MAME, Daphne.  Skipped Dreamcast, PS1 for now as those games are too large.. maybe as an upgrade in the future. 

Did get the PS2 emulator working well (46-60 fps) after tinkering with a few settings, just wanted it for a few games.   God of War 1 (which I completed and really liked, never finished the series though), God of War 2 and Shadow of Colossus for now (which I have always wanted to play but my PS2 recently stopped working...)

For PC games, just a few to chose from that might be fun on the CAB (I've only played HL2 ep1, Undying and Carmaggedon on this list)
Street Fighter 4
Mortal Kombat Komplete
Injustice: Gods Among Us (Saw Conan O'Brien's skit on this game... just had to get it!
Need for Speed Pursuit
Carmaggedon Max
Undying
Farcry 3
Half Life 2 ep1,2
Orcs Must Die 2
Battlefield 3
BioShock

A couple questions,
(1)  Anyone play FPS shooters once and a while on their cabs?  I'm thinking 1 joystick for movement and then a wireless mouse for pointing, shooting and jumping, but that almost defeats the purpose of using the CAB.   Light gun wouldn't be practical either as you couldn't logistically use the joystick/buttons at the same time...

(2) As awesome as it is having all NES-N64 and MAME games to pick from with artwork and video clips, it's not very practical.    I've read a few threads where people make a list of about 200-400 games, which seems reasonable.   I'd like to have the best of both worlds if possible, having all games available, but also a subset for each console/platform.  Any way to do this within Hyperspin? 

Category subsets would be nice too- instead of all MAME, break it up into beat-em ups, fighters, shooters, racing, etc.   The MAME list is of games is huge.

Matt

[MedievalMan]

Also trying to beat the original Midnight Resistance today and/or tomorrow... if only I could pause the damn thing

So many things to consider for these type of projects

[MedievalMan]

For Hyperspin looks like I'll need to just make seperate main categories instead of sub categories.   Oh well.

I beat Midnight Resistance over the weekend (wasn't as long as I thought it was going to be.... a bit of a challenge with the somewhat unresponse rotation with the rotary  joysticks but I quite enjoyed it).
Finally opened up the back to see what I was dealing with, and it has brought up a couple questions


(1) Speakers
I’ve read a few posts on builds using an amplifier from the PC headphone output jack to the existing speaker(s), but often needed a more expensive power supply or separate power supply to avoid excessive noise / hum, perhaps a cap as a low pass filter could help.  The single mono speaker won’t be enough for what I want, so I don’t think it’s worth investing time trying to get that speaker to work well with the PC in addition to a set of PC speakers.  I have  a $80 pair of Creative speakers my wife doesn’t like me using with the main TV in the the living room.. think I’ll use those.   Any other suggestions for audio?

(2)  Monitor


I have a 21” VIewsonic  CRT that will just fit Depth wise, height about 2” of clearance and width about  3” to spare inside the existing enclosure once I remove the existing Arcade CRT.
For the depth, I think the existing monitor will stick out about an inch unless I place the monitor slightly closer to the user than the existing monitor.   With that tight of space I worry about ventilation.
Should I keep the CRT monitor in it’s casing and maybe add some holes in the back of the cab for ventiliation, or remove the CRT from it’s casing like the existing Arcade monitor?  I’d prefer to leave the PC monitor intact, but thought I’d get some experience builders suggestion on this…
Wonder if there’s anyone locally to sell the arcade monitor too… guess I could put it up on Kijiji.

(3)  Discharging CRT capacitor
Seems can be done with alligator clips and screw driver …
http://www.andysarcade.net/personal/tech/discharging.txt

 I have a good respect for all things electrical, but is this necessary?  I’m just removing the whole arcade monitor, not disassembling it.  Seems there’s no need in that case.
http://www.ultimarc.com/monfaq.html

(4)  Control Panel
I still like the hinge idea, but wondering if it might be overkill considering I’ll have a front mount restrictor that I can change from the tops.  Still convenient if I ever want to swap out button colours or troubleshoot any issues though.

I’ve got my arcade panel layout completed (rough draft); using the layout I liked best from
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html


(single side layout only, repeated on other side)


Not sure what I’m going to do for artwork.. I was originally going to go with just painted black/grey to make it look like a NES controller.. .. will have to think on this some more.


Here’s what it’s there right now that I’ll be removing
 



Thanks again for the tips.
 
Matt

[bimm25e]

I know you think you need 8 buttons but trust me when I say you should keep it at 6 - extra buttons make games more difficult to play - the only thing the 8 would come in handy for are going to be n64/psx/ps2 emulators and since you probably don't have analog sticks, (esp 2 per player for psx/ps2) you'll still be left "wanting" for those emulators.

IF you're married to the idea of more buttons it wouldn't be a bad idea to use convex buttons for the 6 and concave buttons for the last 2 - this tactile feedback will at least help you understand why your guy is getting his ass kicked in MVC2 instead of calling the partner assist


I have a 6 button/player CP and I have to say that the extra buttons in 2/3/4 button games make keeping your fingers on the right buttons complicated.  make a couple shoebox joypads to test 6 vs 8 button layouts - you'll quickly see what I mean


also DISCHARGE the damn monitor!  it takes all of 10 seconds and could save you from getting hurt, or more realistically, getting zapped and dropping your expensive stuff as a knee-jerk reaction.    its quite easy to make a discharge tool with a screwdriver and 3 feet of wire and some duct tape.

[mgb]

I agree, I buttons can make for unnecessary confusion.
Way late on your discharge question but just in case you haven't
taken it out yet, there's no need to discharge if your only
removing the monitor. 

[MedievalMan]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice. To get the button color I wanted (ended up going with a lighter blue) I ended up getting different buttons (microswitch) instead of the gold leaf from Ultimarc for the 7+8 button positions.   The convex/concave idea is even better, wish I had thought of it but this should help distinguish them somewhat.   I already have more buttons than I need, guess I could order more

I agree 8 buttons is overkill for 99% of games (even console games which only require 1 analog stick).  4 buttons, 4 fingers - it seemed to fit my hand well but guess I'll find out.  I suppose you wouldn't need to keep your pinky fingers on buttons 7,8 for most games so that should reduce the hand strain (I'm still new to this....).


The rest of the functional part of the cab is complete, but I haven't yet started assembly of the most important part, the controls.  It's been very cold for the past few weeks (polar vortex- brrr), too cold to work in the garage even with my small electric space heater

So far I:

Monitor + Bezel Installation
   - Removed the old 19" arcade monitor (didn't discharge though the process is relatively simple)
   - Removed everything else I wouldn't need (isolation transformer, power supply, game PCB)
   - There was already a platform above the floor level surface that fit the PC tower perfectly.  Put it there with an L bracket to hold in place.
   - Moved the shelf holding the monitor down about 3" to properly fit the new 21" CRT
   - Accidentally broke the 21" monitor (Viewsonic, 2001 era)  I had bought  (for $30) - I think lifting it up upright  and then turning 90 deg did it in, I obviously didn't do that with the next monitor.  The monitor showed only a vertical line that changed in color with the picture signal, meaning the horizontal beam circuit must have been bad.  I didn't want to bother opening up the monitor casing so I opted to find a better monitor.
   - Got a better 22" monitor (NEC 2005 era professional - paid $60) - it was 10 lbs lighter and fit the existing enclosure I had made much better.
   - Placed the monitor in the shelf.  The shelf is on about a 10 deg angle I think (I used the same angle as existing). The monitor stays in place with friction, but to be safe I cut a piece of MDF (conveniently 24" the width of the cab so not too much cutting to do) and screwed it in to support the monitor from the back.
(When I move the cabinet, I will simply remove the monitor and that supporting piece of MDF.. it would be too heavy with it installed I think).
   - Cleaned up the existing bezel, looks great with the new monitor.    I'm glad this piece is in good condition because it's not arbitrary to find/make one.

Speakers
   - Opted to not both hooking up the small mono speaker the came with cab (I didn't remove it).   I did read posts where you could install your own audio amplifier on the audio output jack to drive the speakers, but it's tinny and not stereo so I didn't bother.
  - I have a nice $100 Creative PC/home theatre speakers (2, no woofer but they have nicely balanced base) that  I rarely ever use in my living room (my wife hates them..
  - I installed these into the cab, they fit nicely beside the monitor and sound great.

Power
   - I got a powerbar with a master outlet ($25).     Powering on/off the PC power switch powers on the speakers and monitor. 
   - Just planned this, haven't did it yet, could someone confirm if this a good approach (I have a background in EE so I can handle circuit speak )
                   -There's a nice toggle switch that came with the cabinet (it's actually on top of the CAB) that I'm going to move to an easy place to access
                   -Toggling the switch sets the internal circuit to  open or closed (shorted).   
                   -However, from what I've read, PC power supplies/motherboards need to have this open/closed state sent only for a short time.  I.E. if you hold down the power button on the PC to power it up, it will power on and then shutoff.
                   - To make the switch from a permanent on/off  to a temporary on/off needed for the PC power supply;   
                            - I'll measure the resistance R of the switch using my multimeter, and hookup a capacitor in series to get a RC time constant of about 1 second.
                            - When the switch is toggled, the circuit will initially be closed and allow current to pass through, but then become open once the capacitor becomes charged.

Control Panel Preparation
      - Got 3/4" MDF cut to required size (7.5"x24", the larger piece is 24" wide) - got quite a few pieces this size cut for practice (I haven't routed since grade 9... )
      - I bought a router table and router, as well a jigsaw (I've used these in the past to install laminate flooring)

      - As I bought the top mount swappable restrictor plate for the U360, I'm going to follow the following top mount guide"
             http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.40
      - I also bought

      T


Sold some parts I wouldn't need that would help offset my initial purchase of the CAB in (mostly) working condition;
- Sold the PCB to a local forum member if
- Sold the monitor on Kijiji, was fun to have discuss in person with a fellow arcade enthusiast - he's going to use the monitor for a PACMAN restore.    I did get his contact info- if I decide to get printed laminate graphics  him and his buddy just bought a 24"+ printer and kit designed for it.

[MedievalMan]

Accidentally hit reply.  Here's the remainder of my post:

Control Panel Preparation
      - Removed the existing metal control panel.  It was actually on a hinge system.
      - Bought a Logitech PC gamepad to use to test out MAME/Hypersin while CP is under construction (will also act as player 3 if needed)
      - Decided I probably don't need to make this one on a hinge system as I'll be able to swap the restrictor plates from the top.     The CP will be secured to the CAB with a 2 screws on each side which can be removed if I ever need to change or debug something. 
      - Got 3/4" MDF cut to required size (7.5"x24", the larger piece is 24" wide) - got quite a few pieces this size cut for practice (I haven't routed since grade 9... )
      - I bought a router table and router on sale, as well a jigsaw (I've used these in the past to install laminate flooring)
      - As I bought the top mount swappable restrictor plate for the U360, I'm going to follow the following top mount guide:
             http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.40
      - Decided on installing escape, pause, load, save buttons on the underside of the CP (these auxillary buttons will be interaced to the PC with a ZD encoder)
      - Bought a small sheet of acrylic plexi too, not sure if I'm going to use this or go the laminate artwork approach.

For the artwork for the CP, I'm trying to weigh my options:
 - Custom artwork submitted to website and printed out as per previous suggestions
   - From what I've read you need to install these before you assemble the CP though

or
 Painting

I'm leaning towards painting as I just want to go with a dark grey (almost black) background with a light grey trimming (similar to a NES controller).
There's not a lot of spare real estate to make the full blown artwork design to be worth it, I think.

I've tried painting the MDF with acrylic, it doesn't look too bad, but would require multiple coats/sanding.  Is it easier/look better to just paint the back of the acrylic plexi instead?  I was going to try both approaches on scrap to see what looks better.


Thanks again for the suggestions and advice,

Matt


     

[mgb]

I'm not sure if you've decided on what you're going to use for the control panel but if that is a metal control panel already there, what if you had the existing holes filled by welding.
There are many welding shops that can do it cheap then the welds can be ground down and you can redrill. Then for artwork, some polycarb from gameongrafix.
You just wouldn't want to drill your cp until you have the template of the finished art.

[Bambam1963]

Ok, maybe junky wasn't the right word.

I think you meant crappy ;-) We are generally hard on pre-fab stuff as most of us are DIY folks.  If building a control panel seems a bit daunting the X&^-Arcade couldn't hurt.  You will pay more than you would if you build it yourself.  Have fun.

[Bambam1963]

Ok, maybe junky wasn't the right word.

I think you meant crappy ;-) We are generally hard on pre-fab stuff as most of us are DIY folks.  If building a control panel seems a bit daunting the X&^-Arcade couldn't hurt.  You will pay more than you would if you build it yourself.  Have fun.

[Xiaou2]

Plexi isnt just for spills. 

 Its also used for:

 1)  Keep surface clean as possible.


 A persons hands tend to have a lot of oils and grimy filth on their hands... which when you sweat, it gets embedded into whatever you are touching.   A Control panel, on a popular game, in a busy arcade / location... would turn BLACK from filth, in two weeks time.

 Some artwork has ridges.  These help absorb and hide said grime due to more surface area.. as well as provide a cooler CP with better airflow...  BUT, they are also much harder to clean.   Eventually, cleaning them with abrasives, may cause quick wear.


 2)  Peeling Artwork


  CP material tends to separate from the Control Panel over time.   The glue starts to get old and fails...  and then edges pop up.  Oils and crud gets under said edges... and further destroys the bonds, and it lifts up further.. as well as start to warp the material itself.

 Eventually, it causes the material to have sharp edges that protrude into a persons hands...  so what do they do?   Break off the said piece.   But over time, the material will just continue to lift at that damage spot..  and more and more cracking and or torn off pieces will be the result.

 In some cases... the result isnt just age that causes the Lifting & or damages...  but because people often have metal rings on, which dig into the material.   They get angered, and smash down hard into it as well.   Then of course, you have people whom intentionally damage the stuff, carving into it with a sharp knife or something like that.

 The material itself, while flexible..  does tend to stiffen up and dry out.  It gets more and more brittle.  Its difficult to apply to curved surfaces... and it tends to pop up or crack at curved surfaces the most.

 Also note that material expansion and contraction may cause some of this damage too.   Depending on location, regulated temperatures, and In-Game temperatures...  the often Metal control panels can expand and contract... which would cause the adhesive to weaken.. and or to stress the material as well.   Even Wood panels can expand and contract, based on Humidity as well as temperature shifts.


3)  Ease of Maintenance


 A) Cleaning a perfectly smooth surface is a breeze.
 B) Any Graphitti, such as by permanent markers, tend not to stick well to Plexi.
 C) Plexi (unlike Lexan), is very tough to scratch.  Even when it does get scratches.. you can sand & buff them out if you desire.
 D) Most spills tend to roll right off the stuff, and wipe clean with one swoop of a rag.  No abrasives or hard time scrubbing into ridges.
     However, If the CP isnt well bolted, and or depending on where the drink was spilled... it could mean you have to take the Plexi off.  Controllers will always have to be cleaned..  but they are robust enough to do "quick fixes", such as pouring some rubbing alcohol / solvent thru them, to take care of the sticky mess.
 E) Fixability.   If a sticker based covering gets damaged... its very difficult to repair it, and most repairs will not hold for long.
 F) Vandalism.  Plexi is difficult to scratch & carve into in short periods of time, with typical on hand instruments.


 4) Longevity


  Plexi done right... can last a cabinets entire lifespan.    A sticker based covering almost always has damages, wear, cracks, imperfections, peeling, etc.

[mgb]

This machine will be for home use, no?

[MedievalMan]

Yeah home use, with occasional use by kids.

Metal cp option is interesting, but I think someone mentioned the front plate restrictor kit needs a wood cp? 

I'll certainly keep the metal one and maybe construct an alternate cp.    Normal undermouted restrictor plates would be easy to swap out since the metal cp is on hinges.  The current city I live in and my hometown are industrial so it shouldn't be too hard to find a metal workshop.

The buttons and joystick are intended for up to 3/4" wood ... If I want to use the 3/4" mdf and plexi I might need to recess the button areas?  I wonder if it might be easier to get 1/2" MDF instead.  I couldn't get 5/8" except for huge slabs.  Not intending to try to for any 3/4" tmoulding so the total thickness isn't too important.

On that note, I wonder what would like best where the top and front side of the wood would meet?   Perhaps using a round router bit to round out the piece?

Matt

[MedievalMan]

It's been a while  since I've posted here, but I've still been lurking for quite some time )

Since the cab was in my unheated (but insulated) garage over this past winter, I didn't work on the CP until the spring.
Tentatively completed back in June.
I really enjoyed the woodworking (used a router and drill with spade bit) and wiring (those quick disconnects came in handy!)

Decided to stick with the NES coloring (light grey trim, dark charcoal background) instead of artwork for the CP since most of the real estate is taken up by the buttons/joystick.

Functionally complete, but needs some finalized woodworking and artwork.

I did particularly like my wife's recommendation to put a beer fridge next to the arcade.   Source of beer and acts as table to put your beer on!


Things remaining:
(1) Fill in the open space below the control panel
     - Original metal CP had a ~4" overhang that covered this area.
     - Probably I can fill it in with grey painted wood, but then there'd be a division between the side of the CP and this front facing piece... not sure if there's a better approach?


Stage 2 of the project will be the artwork:

(1)  Printed Laminate Overlay for Control Panel
        Right now it's just painted wood, no plexi on top.. this option would at least be more durable I believe, and look nicer (smooth finish).
        I might also consider recessing the joystick more and having the top restrictor plate rest underneath the wood
             - In retrospect, this is probably how it is commonly done.. but the black plastic went with the NES styling I was going for.

(2)  Custom artwork for the sides and marquee (i.e. and get it printed at gameongraphix.com)
   Since I play Arcade & Console games on this cab, my inspiration so far is one of Uncle Monkey's cabs
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,90890.msg953719.html#msg953719
   But I haven't had the time/motivation to design something like that myself

Some of my thoughts/commments so far:
- The U360 joysticks work really well for for all types of games (at least for my not-so-discerning tastes)
- Using UltraMap4Mame to configure U360 automatically, works great
- I found that pulling off fighting moves in SF, MK, or even new fighters like Injustice was much easier and more consistent  by using 8 way config with a larger deadzone.
- I put a 2 seater bench in front of the cab too, works well for me and my wife playing it (we enjoy beat-em ups like TMNT and Simpsons, she really kicks ---my bottom--- at puzzle games like Dr Mario though

Thanks all the past and future advice!

-Matt

[zanna5910]

I thought you bottom mounted with those restrictors?  Maybe I'm wrong.  Should only be 1.25" hole for the restrictor to come thru. 

[MedievalMan]

It does seems these top mounted restrictor plates should be bottom mounted, that way the square plastic top doesn't show  (only a partial amount of the actual restrictor, depending on how much you recess).
Though I do recall when I initially decided the way to go about it this way,  I couldn't find any examples of cabs with it (plenty with U360 of course )

I'll try the bottom mount approach when I re-do the CP for the laminate cover.  Suppose that would give me more real estate for any artwork incase I decide not to go with the plain black/grey trim.
I'm also considering switching the yellow coin and player start buttons (that way the black buttons line up).

-Matt

[Dance Commander]

I looked and they also had acrylic sheets on smaller more appropriate sizes near the plexi.  Its clear and seems just as durable as the plexi..Would it be suitable?   Could cut it without needing a skill saw.

If it eases your mind on this, acrylic and plexi are absolutely the same thing Plexiglas is just a trade name. Polycarbonate (lexan) is more impact resistant but will scratch much easier.