control panel T-molding help

[Homietheclown]

Hey All,

I'm on the home stretch for my cabinet but I still have a few issues to deal with here and there.  I searched the forums but I couldn't seem to find the answer I was looking for. I got some 3/4 T-molding samples from T-molding.com so figure out what color I wanted for my cab. I ran into a problem when trying to figure out how where to adjust the slot cutter.

My panel is 5/8 MDF, with .039 inch (<1 mm) black laminate, and 1/8 plexi.  Now most people I have seen with 5/8 MDF will use the 1/8 plexi which is perfect for 3/4 t T-Mo.  However what about the laminate? Aren't people using putting laminate down before they put their decal on top of the panel?  I was test fitting it to see how the t-mo would look with the plex on the CP and with the laminate there was a little overhang with the plexi.

T-Molding.com makes a 13/16 piece which will work for my situation, but everyone talks about 3/4 so what am I doing wrong. Is no one using putting laminate on the control panel just below the decal?

I'm stumped!

[Typefighter01]

I would have to say most builders aren't laminating the top of their CP's and then adding art, most are probably just painting bare MDF and then adding decal and then 1/8" plexi, so 3/4" is what works here.

You could go the 13/16" route, or, a simple solution is just to route a small bevel on the bottom of CP so it meets up flush to bottom of T-Mold, considering we are only talking the thickness of laminate, no one would ever notice (except you of course, and it will bug you forever ). Crucial area is of course where the top of plexi meets top of T-Mold, they should be at exact same height...actually, you could put your bevel on top and give the routered plexi a quick flame polish, it might help the chaffed fore arms you sometimes get while resting them on CP edge while playing.

[Homietheclown]

Thanks for the info. Technically I haven't laminated my CP yet. I had planned on laminating it like the rest of the cade.  Now I am wondering if I should paint it.  Does that mean I should paint it black. What about primer?  Argh I am getting that overwhelmed feeling again.

[Typefighter01]

Personally, I would continue with the laminating as there is nothing sweeter than applying art to a laminated surface. Just order the 13/16" and be done with it or stick with the 3/4" and apply one of the suggestions.

If your going to paint, however, make sure to prime and use acrylic based (try to avoid latex paint as the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- seems to take forever to cure). Use a gloss paint as it provides the best adhesion. As for colour, if you have lots of light colours in your art, I would go white as it will help to keep your whites and primary colours bright. If art is dark and mostly black, then paint black.

Some might chime in and say you don't need paint, just apply directly to the MDF. I wouldn't do it, but lots have had luck with no paint and considering you will have plexi holding it down, there is no chance of lifting. In fact, lots of builders have applied non-adhesive artwork and relied on the plexi to hold it down. But this is not a good option in my opinion as even with the plexi holding it down, it is still possible to see ripples or bubbles.

Let us know what you end up doing 

[Homietheclown]

Personally, I would continue with the laminating as there is nothing sweeter than applying art to a laminated surface. Just order the 13/16" and be done with it or stick with the 3/4" and apply one of the suggestions.

If your going to paint, however, make sure to prime and use acrylic based (try to avoid latex paint as the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- seems to take forever to cure). Use a gloss paint as it provides the best adhesion. As for colour, if you have lots of light colours in your art, I would go white as it will help to keep your whites and primary colours bright. If art is dark and mostly black, then paint black.

Some might chime in and say you don't need paint, just apply directly to the MDF. I wouldn't do it, but lots have had luck with no paint and considering you will have plexi holding it down, there is no chance of lifting. In fact, lots of builders have applied non-adhesive artwork and relied on the plexi to hold it down. But this is not a good option in my opinion as even with the plexi holding it down, it is still possible to see ripples or bubbles.

Let us know what you end up doing 

Ok Iaminate it and go with the 13/16 t-mo. It feels weird though heh. Personally I am going to be afraid to cut the t-mo on both side perfectly. I saw that someone used a special tool that will do it but I hate to spend more dinero.

[Drnick]

I hope that special tool you are referring to is not a slot cutter,  If so I hate to dissapoint you but it's time to spend some more Dinero   It is almost impossible to rout for T-mold without one.

You will want a couple of pieces of scrap that are the same thickness as your control panel to get the alignment just right