Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: Paint Curing  (Read 1160 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Richardgregory

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 360
  • Last login:November 17, 2021, 01:15:10 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Paint Curing
« on: October 14, 2014, 06:19:05 pm »
If I had a choice I don't think I'd use latex paint again....coming from an oil or spray can kinda guy...I'm not convinced on its durability.  I guess It does have its pros but I notice it feels sticky/tacky to the touch.  I take it that it"ll go away after it cures properly in about a month's time (I hope).

So right now I will have to wait before sticking on the side art, unless I can just go ahead before the paint fully cures? 

Actually, if I had to do it again it'll be laminate instead.

mgb

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3500
  • Last login:August 03, 2025, 07:25:14 pm
  • North East, US
Re: Paint Curing
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2014, 07:54:46 pm »
Yeah, I wouldn't use latex.
If I did use paint (and I'm glad I didn't) I'd use nothing else other than Rustoleum Satin Black Enamel.

yotsuya

  • Trade Count: (+21)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19961
  • Last login:Today at 01:22:15 am
  • 2014 UCA Winner, 2014, 2015, 2016 ZapCon Winner
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137636.msg1420628.html
Re: Paint Curing
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2014, 11:27:58 pm »
I use Valspar Satin Black Enamel myself. The key is to use enamel.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

dkersten

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1472
  • Last login:March 12, 2024, 11:47:30 am
  • If you are gonna do it, do it right..
Re: Paint Curing
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2014, 05:15:38 pm »
even a good latex enamel will take 3+ weeks to fully cure.. I used Behr from Home depot and it took nearly 8 weeks to completely cure.  I can spray on oil based enamel and in the sun it will be completely cured in less than a day, in the shop at 70 degrees F all day/night it is fully cured in about 48 hours.  I won't roll/spray latex again.  Once fully cured, latex is VERY durable, but be prepared to wait a LONG time for that to happen. 

DeLuSioNal29

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4779
  • Last login:July 11, 2025, 09:17:44 am
  • Build the impossible -"There is no Spoon"
    • DeLuSioNaL's YouTube Videos
Re: Paint Curing
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2014, 10:14:35 am »
I usually apply the sideart after a few days of curing.  Never had any issues.

D
Stop by my Youtube channel and leave a comment:

lilshawn

  • Trade Count: (+3)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7514
  • Last login:August 19, 2025, 11:56:37 pm
  • I break stuff...then fix it...sometimes
Re: Paint Curing
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2014, 02:56:24 pm »
the main issues with latex are:

1: the main "solvent" in latex/acrylic paint is water....water takes forever to evaporate at less than ideal temperatures. trying to expediate this process can result in bubbles and/or peeling paint because the water evaporates from the surface leaving a skin of cured paint and the remaining water cannot escape.

2:  you apply it too thick and it takes FOREVER to dry... again, because the water evaporates from the surface leaving a skin of cured paint and the remaining water cannot escape.

thin coats is the key. just enough to cover your item.

oil would be best for a quick dry paintjob. The solvents in oil paints are things like "drying oil" (linseed)  that react with oxygen creating a tough solid structure and "alkyd" a form of plastic that sets when a stabilizer begins to evaporate from the paint mix.

While latex goes on nice and levels beautifully, you need to give it time.

Richardgregory

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 360
  • Last login:November 17, 2021, 01:15:10 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: Paint Curing
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2014, 03:57:44 pm »
Thanks for the feedback. I might have put to thick a coat.  Regardless, I'm giving it 4 weeks and ready or not I'm applying the art.  Worse case scenario I will strip it all out I the future and redo.

dkersten

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1472
  • Last login:March 12, 2024, 11:47:30 am
  • If you are gonna do it, do it right..
Re: Paint Curing
« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2014, 10:24:59 am »
There is a difference between curing and drying.  Curing is the chemical process that takes place when paint is exposed to air, drying is just the solvents in the paint evaporating.  Latex cures at a very slow rate, even if temperatures are ideal and it dries quickly.  Until paint is cured, it can be cleaned with the same solvents that keep it in a liquid form, once cured however, that is not the case.