Rapture, a Bioshock Themed Terminus Clone (Time to pick Joysticks)

[ViriiGuy]

Update 6/24/14
Ok, The wife has settled on a theme for this build. It will be based off the first two Bioshock games.
The working title for the time being is Rapture. Art work will come along eventually. For now I am just focused on the build of the cabinet itself.

Well guys, Since my NAMCO Cabinet build turned out to be WAY too big for our house... It requires double doors to get in and out...
It just kind of sat in the garage, never getting used.. and eventually got canabalized for my Virtual Pinball Build. So, now that Optimus-Pin is 100% Complete... It is time to build a new Arcade Cabinet.

I have a sheet of MDF 3/4" Sitting in the garage, just waiting on me to start. But I have yet to decide on a design. I have narrowed it down to some criteria though. I want a 2 player CP with 6 buttons each, so the Wife and I can play fighting games. I probably will not have a Trackball.. At least not at first. I can redesign the CP later if need be for that.
I will be using a 26" LCD that I originally bought for the NAMCO Cabinet. And I want it to be a space-saving Cabinet. Not too deep, and not massively wide.

I am liking a lot of the wall hugging designs I have seen. I am just not sure what I want to do yet. Any suggestions?

Ok, This will be a Terminus Build. Based of the brilliant design of MarkC74. Here is the original thread, http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=92156.0
Unfortunately, the original suffered terminal water soak.

Stay tuned!

[JDFan]

IF you have a space picked out for it already and don't plan on moving it much perhaps something similar to 2084's wall mounted units but with a fighting cab theme and look --



Maybe even just use the monitor section of your Namco build and figure a way to adapt the CP to fit in with it as a wall mounted unit.

[johnndeanna]

Love that Stargate cab.

I like the slimmer cabs as well. I just don't have room for a large cab now that I don't have a basement anymore. Mine is only 24" deep. One sheet of 3/4" MDF did both sides with some scrap left over. See it in my signature below.

[ViriiGuy]

I like those wall mount designs, they are very neat! but I actually have the room for a stand up cab.. Just the BIG NAMCO I have is WAY too big. It is over powering next to my two pinball machines.. and aesthetically, they should be the dominating structure in the room.

John, your cab is one of the ones I have been considering, design wise. You have done an excellent job!

When I finish this build, my next one will be a Cocktail cabinet, based on Ond's design.

[PL1]

The search term you're looking for is "Vigolix".   


Scott

[ViriiGuy]

The search term you're looking for is "Vigolix".   


Scott

Ya know..... I think I like that!

[EMDB]

The Project Mame (see image) based cabs are also quite thin (you could make them even a bit less deep) and still are a full upright cabinet. See my signature for an example based on this design...

[rockyrocket]

I have found that slim cabs tend to be a bit unstable due to the narrow footprint.
Not a problem if you are happy to fix it to the wall, but worth thinking about if you play fighters.

[ViriiGuy]

That is one concern I had with a slim line cabinet. Stability.

[Vigo]

Using heavy boards for the bottom of a slim cab go a long way. Anything to bring the weight down to the bottom. If all else fails, a cinder block on the bottom will do the trick.

[eds1275]

Mine is 21 3/4" at the bottom, 28 3/4 wide, never had a problem with wobble.

[johnndeanna]

I actually put casters under mine for ease of movement but have decided to eliminate them. My base is only 18" wide front to back and the other day whilst installing the monitor I gave a bit of a push from behind and it started to lean a bit since I reality it was only balancing on a point of the front wheels. I think by taking them out it will be more than stable enough. If not I'll add a footrest at the front for a bit more stability. Gives the additional benefit of a place to rest your feet while seated.

[ViriiGuy]

JohnDenna,
Not to sound like a commercial.. But with those mover's discs you can put under stuff these days... Casters are a thing of the past When I need to move a pinball machine around, I put one under each leg and I can push it with ease across my floor.

I am going to sit down this week with sketchup and some basic measurements and see what I can come up with. But please... keep the input and ideas coming. The more I look at the Vigolix, I really like the style, but I would to seriously upsize it. It looks like the design has the CP at a great height for a small child, but not and adult. I would also have to change it up a bit, to give it more flare.

I am a huge fan of the typical Cabinet designs from the 80's, but not opposed to wild either. When I built my Virtual Pinball Cabinet, I went with the Pin2K design, because it was a nice combination of both an arcade cabinet and a pinball machine. So it fit with the design.

[eds1275]

Mine is on laminate flooring and I just used hockey pucks for feet with those felt pads stuck to them. It's heavy enough to stay put when playing but easy enough to slide around if I need to. If it were on carpet I'd likely have two large wheels at the back so I could drive it around.

[charlieram]

I built this one a few years ago and its very stable, the build is on this forum and the sketchup files are available for download too. I originally had a 26" TV in but have since upgraded to 28". It is plenty wide enough for two players.

[ViriiGuy]

charlieram, is your CP the avg arcade cabinet height? Or a lot lower?
I guess I could go check your thread

[Rick]

I built this one a few years ago and its very stable, the build is on this forum and the sketchup files are available for download too. I originally had a 26" TV in but have since upgraded to 28". It is plenty wide enough for two players.

That ... is an awesome design. I like it!

[charlieram]

charlieram, is your CP the avg arcade cabinet height? Or a lot lower?
I guess I could go check your thread

I think the top of the cp is 90cm high

That ... is an awesome design. I like it!

Thanks, I would change a few things now but only so it was easier to make if I were to do another in the future, I even thought about making one out of varnished light and dark wood. I think that would look cool.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok... I think I found what I want
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=92156.0 Terminus is just flat out sexy!!! Now to see if I can figure out how to read his model file in Sketchup.. So I can print out some plans.

[markc74]

Hi chap - glad you like the build!

I uploaded the plans in different 3d formats here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138122.msg1426352.html#msg1426352

So hopefully that should help you out!

[ViriiGuy]

Hi chap - glad you like the build!

I uploaded the plans in different 3d formats here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138122.msg1426352.html#msg1426352

So hopefully that should help you out!

Awesome! Thank you very much! I have races the next couple of weekends, so I am hoping to start on this the weekend of the 4th

[pbj]

If you're looking for upright and thing, if they haven't exploded by around 27, you're usually good until menopause.

[ViriiGuy]

If you're looking for upright and thing, if they haven't exploded by around 27, you're usually good until menopause.

LOL!! Too late Been married for 15 years But the wife endures my racing hobby and my arcade hobby... so it is all good

[ViriiGuy]

Ok well, it rained today, which killed my plans to mow. So I decided to get started on the cabinet. Once I got the lumber home, I got busy copying the side of the cabinet from the plan to the wood. It took me about an hour and a half to get the design drawn on the wood just right.




I then took out the Jigsaw and started cutting. A carpenter I am not.. and I quickly found I was having an issue following the lines. So rather than botch up the wood, I decided to cut wide. I will go back with sandpaper and sand it to shape.



Once I get this side cleaned up, I will use the router to copy it to the other piece of MDF. I also think I will get a piece of 1/4 plywood and make a template.. Just in case I ever need to make another one. I might want a matching cab with a different controller layout on the other side of the doors in the living room.

Thank you MarkC74 for this awesome design!

[markc74]

Nice work chap. Sides are the hardest bit i think. Although the cp curve was a bugger as well :-)

I'll see if i can root out some of the original build pics. Might be helpful when you're putting it together.

Got an idea for a theme?

[ViriiGuy]

Thanks! That would be awesome! As for a Theme... I built a Transformers Themed Virtual Pin for myself last year, so I am letting the wife choose this one's theme.

Currently, she is leaning towards Bioshock, but I am thinking that is not going to turn out well. So we shall see.
If I build a second one, it will probably be a UT Vols Theme. (Local College sports)

[ViriiGuy]

Well... Time to go buy tools
I have the curves finished on the first side. But I can't get my jig saw to cut a straight line... Even with a straightedge. It is a very old Rockwood and the blade is moving around, side to side as I have found. So, Guess it is time to buy a Table Saw, so I can straighten up the very top of the side.. and start cutting the various other cabinet parts.

Also after standing with the side in front of me, I think I have decided to raise the machine 2.5 inches. My wife and I are only 5'6ish.. But the cabinet feels like it will be a bit short even for us. To achieve this, I am just extending all the base parts by 2.5 inches.

[ViriiGuy]

I finally have matching sides!


Man thus stuff makes a HUGE mess.

[JDFan]

I finally have matching sides!


Man thus stuff makes a HUGE mess.

Fixed the link for you !

[ViriiGuy]

Fixed the link for you !

Thanks, Was trying to post from my phone

Now to attempt to rip the model apart and make the rest of my measurements....

[markc74]

Looking good chap.

Uploaded the original build pics here for you here --> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2XxpmZ16vfOa3hMNGJNMjloRzg&usp=sharing

The cabinet changed from a wall hanging design to a full size half way through the build which is why the earlier pics look like a different cab!

[ViriiGuy]

Those are great! They answer a few questions for me. Thank you very much

And, I found out about Sawboards today.... Building that as soon as this BORING meeting is over with!

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, today was all about lessons learned...
I learned that 1/8 inch paneling makes a horrible base for a saw board. Yea, way too thin. I thought the thinner it was the better it would be. Not so.

I learned that Sentimental value on tools is highly over-rated.

I also learned I can destroy a lot of wood by not making sure my saw blade isn't warped. Most of these tools have been in storage for a long time.

Ah well. Tomorrow I will pick it up and try again.

[ViriiGuy]

I finished ripping the model apart for my measurements. So I figured I would toss them here, so A. I do not lose them.. and B. so someone else can use them if they wish.
For the Base, I added 2.5 inches to the height.

Cabinet top 27 Inches x 18.25
Speaker panel 27 x 12.75
CP Top 27 x 15
CP Front 32 x 3.25
CP Bottom 27 x 15
Kick board 27 x 32.5
Coin door sides x 2 9 x 32.5
Coin door front 12 x 32.5
bottom front 10 x 10
Bottom back 27 x 9.25

This is a rough idea of how to get them all out of one board.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok! We have wood!
Everythibg but the back panels is cut. The cp top and bottom have to be cut and shaped. The cp fro t has to be kerfed.

I have to work late the next two days. So not much will be done for a few days.


Ok I lied.. I got a tiny bit more done I was on a conference call.. actually still am. So I muted it, went to the garage and cut the hole for the coin door

[ChanceKJ]

Update 6/24/14
Ok, The wife has settled on a theme for this build. It will be based off the first two Bioshock games.
The working title for the time being is Rapture. Art work will come along eventually. For now I am just focused on the build of the cabinet itself.

YES!! So ---smurfing--- cool.  You had me at Splicer.

[ViriiGuy]

YES!! So ---smurfing--- cool.  You had me at Splicer.

Glad you like it

I am in meetings until 9pm or so tonight, so I doubt if I will get anything else done today, but this weekend will be build time!
I didn't get out of my meeting last night until 12:30 am ... Ugg and back to work at 5 am.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, well I did manage to squeeze an hour in the garage. The result?

Most of the base is assembled. Sorry for the crappy pic and never mind the jagged cuts for the coin door. I will clean it up with a router later, I just roughed it in last night with a jigsaw.

[ViriiGuy]

What can I say.. I can't seem to stay out of the garage. I finished up the front pedestal assembly and cut the back of it out, so I can have access to the full cabinet.


Next I have to slot the sides for tmolding.. and start trying to figure out how I am going to man handle them for assembly. I went thru 14 foot of 3/4 x 34 oak for added corner strength. Looks like I will need to pick some more up this weekend. I only have about 8 foot of it left.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, time to start thinking about filler material.. Like sanding putty.

I will have some cracks to fill in, due to a warped saw blade. I know a lot of folks use Bondo.. But I hate that stuff so much. It stinks up the entire garage. So, I am hoping to find something better to use. I am planning to stop by SW later and see what they have. Any suggestions?

[Rick]

Any suggestions?

Bondo. That is the only answer I have for you. I've used wood fillers of various types, and have never had the success that Bondo will give you.

[ChanceKJ]

Before I found out how well bondo works, I used to use the stuff that goes on pink and dries white

[ViriiGuy]

Sigh.... I just hate the smell of Bondo sooooo much. Surely there is a wood filler out there that works?
I know with Pine, you could use the saw dust and elmer's glue. It works PERFECT... But on MDf, I dunno. It is so absorbent....

[dkersten]

sawdust and glue will work with MDF, but it takes a long time to harden to where you can sand and shape it.  The best part about bondo is that you can mix it hot and be shaping it in 30 minutes, get a second coat on, and a few hours later be sanding to the finish quality.  Wood glue and sawdust will fill the seams and cracks, but shrinkage WILL happen, so you will likely need 2 or 3 coats to get it perfect, with 4-6 hour drying times in between..  There are "wood filler" types out there that you mix and will set fast, but they are basically bondo with wood color and sometimes some fine sawdust mixed in so it will hold a stain, but the smell is the same. 

[ViriiGuy]

Gotcha.... *sigh* So, Bondo it is.

Thanks

[ChanceKJ]

I used Dap DryDex spackle and it worked fine.

[ViriiGuy]

We have that at Home Depot I think.. Thanks, I will try it out!

[BrianAg95]

I just looked up the product sheet on that drydex stuff (have never used it)  It's vehicle is an acrylic polymer, which should be fine on mdf.  (if it was waterbased more like a drywall plaster/compound then mdf would NOT like it!)

(I looked it up since the usage pic looks like plywood not mdf..  )

[ViriiGuy]

Cool thanks!

Well, I realized I forgot a few pieces of wood. I decided to make the cab 2.5 inches taller, after I had cut it out and saw how low it would be. So I extended the base. Well, I forgot to cut a skirt for the bottom of the base. Got that got and affixed. Now I have to cut the pedestal top. I think it will be 10x 27, but I have to triple check that. I have to route the curve on the upper and lower CP pieces and I have to attempt to kerf cut the piece of MDF for the front of the CP.

I am putting off routing the t-molding groove, because I forgot to double check the chuck on my router and the bit slipped on my side panel and cut it too wide. So, I am going to have to fill that in and fix it.

[ChanceKJ]

Yeah, I slipped my router and bit into the inside of one of the back panels on my Flynn's build. I was trying to trim the end of a ledger board I had installed so the CPU shelf in my design could fit better. I was pissed. But this DryDex stuff worked well. It's not bondo, but it works.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, Well I picked up some of the Dap putty you mentioned. I will try it out later. I cut my pieces I need, put the pedestal top on... I have killed as much time s I can with little stuff. Time to break out the router again.

Hopefully... I won't screw it up again this time

[ViriiGuy]

Surprise surprise.. I went back out to the garage and worked for a few more hours. (I work slowly)
The Base is complete, slot routed and spackled. I just need to sand it, prime it, sand it, paint it, paint it, sand it, paint it, sand it... etc etc etc.

I also routed the sides of the cabinet too. So that hurdle is out of the way. Now, I am working on trying to figure out where to put the furrings for the cabinet sides. For the main body corners, I am using 2 x 2 pine. I figure the extra glueing surface couldn't hurt. Where I can't fit the 2 x 2, I will use 3/4 Oak, like I did in the base.

It is getting there, but I still have some major hurdles to finish before just the cabinet is finished.



Here you can see the rear skirt I built to raise the cabinet up just a tad. I am just 5' 6ish But most of my friends are "Normal" height.


As for the theme, the misses and I have been talking about where to go with it. She thinks the cab shape would have fit in well in Rapture, pre destruction. So she want's it to use some of Ratpure's design elements. So we are still digging around for ideas, but she has an idea of making the side art look like aluminum, steel and brass. We will see where this goes

Thanks for looking!


*Edit*
May I just add, OMG Adjustable feet are EXPENSIVE!!! Am I missing something? It is a bolt with a rubber foot on it... How does that warrant $20 a piece locally? I think I will make my own.

[jbenesh]

Look around online a bit.  20 bucks each is ridiculous.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003986/9496/Heavy-Duty-Leg-Levelers-Small-Foot-4-pack.aspx

[ChanceKJ]

Once again...

I'm using these:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Accessories-Leg-Leveler_470.html

And these:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Accessories-Cabinet-Wheel-3_803.html

Sites in Europe. And that's the vendor I bought them from. It's a little pricey as well, but I really like them.  You can by similar ones from arcadeemulator.net but I had a bad experience with them and chose the German shop instead.  They're called "Leg Levelers" and "recessed casters". Should be able to find them for a decent price stateside at a hardware shop, or any large music store that sells bass cab/road case parts

[rockyrocket]

Once again...

I'm using these:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Accessories-Leg-Leveler_470.html

And these:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Accessories-Cabinet-Wheel-3_803.html

Sites in Europe. And that's the vendor I bought them from. It's a little pricey as well, but I really like them.  You can by similar ones from arcadeemulator.net but I had a bad experience with them and chose the German shop instead.  They're called "Leg Levelers" and "recessed casters". Should be able to find them for a decent price stateside at a hardware shop, or any large music store that sells bass cab/road case parts

I have bought both those items from them in the past, and probably will again .

[ViriiGuy]

I went to the next city over and found these at Lowe's. Total cost was roughly $6. I will throw a nut on them as well as a lock.
Opps forgot the picture.


I have been making a little progress. I am currently working on sanding a bit. I am going to round the corners on the coin door area. They just don't seem to fit the rest of the build.

[ChanceKJ]

Nice find with the feet.

I'd almost try to round the inner corners as well. Maybe grab some of that metal cornering they use in drywall applications. If you sand and finish it properly you should get a nice effect. Or even take a 1x1 strip of wood and somehow clamp it down and mill out a nice radius. Might be too much work, but it would look cool.

But yeah, I'd definitely take a router to the outer corners along the coin door surface.

[ChanceKJ]

Mind you, now that I think about it a good Art Deco style has a healthy mix of round corners and sharp edges. I'd just google "Art Deco" and surf through everything google images finds for as long as it takes or until it makes you sick.

You might find some inspiration in a number of the old Art Deco style AM radios that were made over the years.

...now I have Bobby Darin stuck in my head.

[yotsuya]

Mind you, now that I think about it a good Art Deco style has a healthy mix of round corners and sharp edges. I'd just google "Art Deco" and surf through everything google images finds for as long as it takes or until it makes you sick.

You might find some inspiration in a number of the old Art Deco style AM radios that were made over the years.

...now I have Bobby Darin stuck in my head.

Aptly-titled song...

[ViriiGuy]

LOL! Love it!
 I rounded the edges on the sides of the Coin door front. The inner 90's I am going to leave. I like how they look.
I was doing some googling on MDF Priming... And found a few folks who have used Killz Oil based primer from an spray can and had good results. I am all about not using a brush and roller if I don't have to. So, I grabbed three cans.

Today and tomorrow, I am going to work on curing the edges with Glue and water, Routing out the CP upper and lower and (gulp) Kerfing the front piece of the CP.

We will see how it goes!!

[BGoulette]

It will go awesome. It. Will. Go awesome. Awesomely, I guess, to get all grammatical up in here... ;-)

[ViriiGuy]

Well the picture FINALLY uploaded to my PB account..
Here is the cabinet after I gave the edges just a slight radius.

[ViriiGuy]

Well that spray can killz works nice! But it took me three cans to do three outside faces in one light coat.
I will probably finish with a brush and roller.

[ChanceKJ]

  yeah, trust me, a rattle can doesn't go very far at all. I'm barely into my paint process and I've already gone through 5 cans.  2 primer and 3 main coat.  And that's just the CP and a couple smaller panels. 

[JDFan]

yeah, trust me, a rattle can doesn't go very far at all. I'm barely into my paint process and I've already gone through 5 cans.  2 primer and 3 main coat.  And that's just the CP and a couple smaller panels. 

What worked well for me (YMMV) is one of the paint and primer in ones, but they are expensive ( +/- $15 per quart) but look for ones that have been mixed improperly and you can get them fairly cheap (I used Valspar Ultra -- purchased 2 quarts at $2.50 each in the mis colored clearance it was a god aweful orangeish yellow color but was being covered anyway with the spray paint final coat ) rolled on rather than sprayed makes a good base for the final spray of color.

It is thick enough that it takes only 1 layer (seals the MDF very well without a lot of absorption) and dries nice and smooth where just a bit of wet sanding makes a nice surface for the final spray coat.

[ViriiGuy]

I have about 8 cans of Velspar High Gloss Black left over from my Pinball project, Optimus Pin. So I decided to see how it does over one light coat of Killz Primer. WOW!! It went on pretty smooth. It took one complete can to do the lower half of the cabinet. Which really isn't THAT bad.

I decided to stop procrastinating and cut out my Control Panels. I decided the best was was to make a jig. This is a VERY UGLY jig, but it worked perfectly



And this is a general idea of how it will look finished. The CP is just about perfect height now. When I add the feet, they will have to be screwed all the way in.

Still LOTS to do, but at least it LOOKS like an arcade machine now

Lower CP is secured in place and upper cabinet support frame built and put in. I have to buy another 2x2 and another 8 foot piece of 3/4 x 3/4. Then I should be done with wood purchases. I also sprayed a bit more paint, so I could finish off the can and did a bit of sanding.

[ViriiGuy]

Boy, I bet my wife wishes I would tackle the repairs around the house, like I am this cabinet!! I again, just couldn't stay out of the garage. I decided to take on the Kerf cuts.

That was pretty easy! It went perfectly, unless came time to trim it size afterwards. I did not support the end of it and cracked the spine in one spot. Oh well, I will sand it and fix it with filler. Beyond that, I personally think it looks great! I will probably add some supports on the back side tomorrow.

[ViriiGuy]

Today, I have to figure out what speakers I am using, route the holes for them, Cut the pieces for the back, finish Priming and sanding.. And start working on the holes for the buttons and joysticks.

I will add a trackball later on down the road, when I buy LED sticks and buttons. I am going to use my existing buttons and MagSticks for now.
I also ordered two ZD Arcades

*update*
Well, that did not go so well. My math was a bit off and I destroyed my CP top. So now I have to cut another one out.

[ViriiGuy]

I got a new CP cut out finally. It took me two tries. The first one, I grabbed my trusty flush trim bit, started around the original and the new cp.. Then noticed after a bit that something didn't seem right.

Yep, Bearing at the bottom of the bit fell off. Fortunately, this was when I was doing the edge on the back.. as it destroyed the original as well. Second time around went fine. Tomorrow.. IF I can get this button layout pattern to print the proper size... I will try again.
It seems to be printing at about 80% scale, no matter what I do... So I tried to replicate it on my own and screwed up in my math.

On the CP, I plan to add a Trackball, as I said. Later. As for the buttons, I will probably just use 6 buttons per side. I can't think of any MAME games that require more than 6 buttons. If I run PSX or newer EMUs, I will likely use USB controllers for those systems. And that is still a big IF.

[markc74]

I'm with you on the controllers thang. My blip cab is arcade only but massive 'if' i put some console games on i would use the original controllers. Keepin' it real (tm).

Looking good so far. I used 3mm wood on the cp bend and countersunk screws to hold it. Your way is much better.

At this rate you're going to finish this cab before mine and i started in January!

[ViriiGuy]

I hope to have it functional in 3 weeks. It won't be "Finished" for some time. I have to save up my pennies for new buttons, trackball and artwork.

And Thanks

[ViriiGuy]

The Kerfed panel SEEMS to be pretty solid, but I will likely put some supports behind it anyway. I dan't want to break it loose in an aggressive game.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, it is 93 outside... The garage, however has been closed up and dark for two days So it is about 72 in there atm. I think I will work on the control panel again. I have a new one cut out, after I ruined the last one. I have my pattern printed the correct size....

I am going to leave room to add a Trackball in the near future. So, I think I will only add a P1 and P2 Start button to the CP top, besides the 6 buttons and sticks. I am not sure what Admin buttons I really need, but I want to maintain that authentic Arcade look and feel. So like I did with My V Pin, I will hide the Admin buttons. Probably under the CP.. Or inside the coin door.

It just depends on how often they will be needed... And what I need.

Since the CP is 3/4 inch MDF, I am planning to route out an area on the underside, to about 1/2 thick. My current tester buttons, barely go all the way thru. My only concern is, Will the MDF be strong enough to handle some abusive button mashing after I thin it.


*Update*
Well, That didn't happen. Instead, I sat down in my chair and fell asleep again. AllI got accomplished today was some sanding on the main cabinet.

[ViriiGuy]

Well, Since Linux seems to be a SUPER important skill to have at work now... And I am about 10 years rusty... I am redoing the old MAME PC to run Linux.
I think. I still have a bit of research to do, to see if I can still do everything I want.

[Zzap]

Great progress! Good to see more of this style being made

[ViriiGuy]

Thanks
I was hoping to have it functional this weekend, but the Keyboard emulators are not in yet. So I will likely spend the weekend on software and the CP.

[ViriiGuy]

Well, better to find out now, than later. My 500 GB drive died, just after I got linux, MAME and MESS setup. Ah well. I grabbed a 2 TB drive off the media closet shelf and started over. Fortunately, I did just backup all my ROMs.

I picked up some screw inserts for the joysticks and some cabinet hinges for the CP. Once the sun goes down, assuming I stay awake, I will work on the cabinet some more.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, I am properly fueled up to do this.. I have measured, double and triple checked.. So We are off!


And it was a success!


I have since also drilled the P1 and P2 buttons. I still need to route out the back a bit, to try to gain some stick height.

[BGoulette]

Nice work! That kerfed front edge looks really nice!

[ViriiGuy]

Thanks! I still have a bit of sanding to do on it, but it turned out a LOT better than I expected! Not too shabby for my first time though

[ViriiGuy]

Well, I ran into a slight issue. My MagStick Plus's handles are too short for underside mounting. So, I have to order longer handles. I also have a stripped keyway on one of them. So I will have to order some parts too. I can't put the stick too deep into the MDF, or I won't have room for any screw inserts. So far I have only found some half inch hammer in ones. But I am going to look again locally.. as they are closer to 3/4 inch than half, with the lip on them.

Hmm... I wonder if I could find the appropriate size SS tubing locally. I could easily thread it to take any ball top I want... And run LEDs to it.

[eds1275]

I just put bolts through, it looks more arcade authentic to me. But if I were going to try to be sneaky, I would use coutnersunk t-nuts flush with the top and cover them with art.

[ViriiGuy]

Yea, I prefer not to put bolts thru. Ideally I want to keep from drilling thru the top at all But it is looking like Tnuts are the most feasible solution for a SECURE mount.

[PL1]

My MagStick Plus's handles are too short for underside mounting. So, I have to order longer handles. I also have a stripped keyway on one of them. So I will have to order some parts too. I can't put the stick too deep into the MDF, or I won't have room for any screw inserts.

See "Under mount (support blocks)" here in the FAQ -- includes pics from EMDB's build thread.


Scott

[EMDB]

My MagStick Plus's handles are too short for underside mounting. So, I have to order longer handles. I also have a stripped keyway on one of them. So I will have to order some parts too. I can't put the stick too deep into the MDF, or I won't have room for any screw inserts.

See "Under mount (support blocks)" here in the FAQ -- includes pics from EMDB's build thread.


Scott

Another huge advantage of under mount with support blocks is that you can replace your sticks from the bottom without having to touch the artwork...

[ViriiGuy]

Well, I had to go to 5 Ace Hardware's to get 8 half inch coarse Screw inserts.
I have considered going the support block route.. And I might still. Those are a pretty good idea... I MIGHT even have some aluminum flat stock I could use.

Thanks.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, I did a bit more playing around and thinking. I recessed the Joysticks as much as I can and still be able to use the half inch inserts I got... That has the stick at a workable height. And since I want ball tops anyway, I will get their 3/4" longer balltop. Which should make it perfect. I may also go with Paradise Arcades, Light up replacement balltop. Depending on how tall it is. Either should help witht he short throw on this stick anyway. I am not real fond of that aspect.

Here are the results... Not my cleanest lines, but I was working freehand. The one on the right, I had crooked the first time I routed it out, so I had to go back and straighten it up. I blame the Guinnesses.

Plenty of Trackball room left.




I spent the rest of the day ripping some of the back panels. However, none of my wood that is left and wide enough, has a single straight edge on it. So, I will either have to buy another sheet of MDF, or deal with some blemishes on the back. I am probably going to deal with some blemishes

I am working on figuring out how I will mount my LCD. Mine is a Decased TV that USED to look like a basketball. So no Vesa mount. I have mount holes on each corner, But will have to fab up some mounting bolts, as I can't lay the back of the TV against anything. There are sensitive connections on every edge.

That will probably be all I accomplish today... But we shall see


*Edit*
Ok, Well I went back out to the garage. I installed some cabinet door hinges on the CP. Unfortunately, now I can't seem to get it straight. It fits perfectly all but one spot on the P1 front corner. So I am giving up for the night. Also, it looks like I WILL have to buy another sheet of MDF to complete the back. So I guess it will get fresh straight edged sides.

[ViriiGuy]

Well, I got the CP straight. More or less. I still have some tweaking to do. I will post pictures later. But I will NEVER use these hinges again. They are flimsy under the weight of this CP. With them being flush mount Cabinet hinges, I thought they would work perfectly for this project. Boy was I wrong.

But, they will have to do for now, as I have already drilled the holes for them and do not feel like cutting another CP again. Fortunately, Once this is complete.. I do not forsee the CP getting opened much. I would like to figure out a way to lock it closed from the underside.

[ChanceKJ]

Got a picture of the hinges?

[ViriiGuy]

Here you go. Just ignore the paint runs. It was the end of the can. I will sand it out later.

[ViriiGuy]

Screen mounts are finished!!

[Slippyblade]

Well, I had to go to 5 Ace Hardware's to get 8 half inch coarse Screw inserts.

I love T-Nuts myself.  Not sure what kinda metal they are made from, maybe aluminum, but the one time I needed to shorten one it sanded down nice and easy.  Not to mention that I've seen tons of them every time I've been to the hardware store.

[ViriiGuy]

I would have gone TNuts. But I don't want any holes on the top of the CP. This way, there are no screw holes to cover up. I will be using them for the feet.

*edit* I decided to put another coat of black on, so I could get an idea of how bad the finish is atm. I have a hard time seeing depth in Matte colors. It makes mowing the lawn a bit of a pain.. Anyway, there are some really bad looking spots. Tomorrow I will work on knocking that down to smooth again. I need to pick up another color for painting the rest of the cabinet. I will probably stick with white for now, until we have a color scheme decided on.


I also need to pick up some aluminum channel for the Plexi and Marquee. Just a few more pieces of wood and a couple more holes.. and the wood working will be pretty much done. Then I can start the wiring.

On the Computer front, I decided to give GrooveyMame a shot. Just for giggles. We will see how that goes. I may go back to Ubuntu.

[ChanceKJ]

mmm, in hindsight im kinda glad i didn't use euro hinges myself.

[ViriiGuy]

Yea, these really suck. They are workable... just not ideal.


Ok, MAME wise, I have been living under a rock for a while. I just found out about Wiimotes as guns!! This I am looking into further! A slight design change may be in store.

Thinking these would make some nice Rapture style Wii Guns...


*edit*
Hmm... After much more reading, I am seeing that Wiimotes do not triangulate properly to be able to actually AIM, due to the Wii only using 2 IR LEDs. Guess that will be a scratch.

[ViriiGuy]

PAINT!!! We have paint!!!

Ok, so I am at a standstill until some supplies come in. So, I decided to paint it. As you can probably tell... I am one of THOSE guys... I am only painting what is visible. For the most part anyway. I am not worrying about painting the entire inside of the cabinet, nor the underside of the CP.

This CP will either be getting cut on again, or replaced when I eventually put in a Trackball. And the cabinet will likely be decaled from head to toe in the end. But, the first coat is on for the white.

[ViriiGuy]

I am having one of those dang I am bright moments!

I typically suck at painting. I mean I am HORRIBLE at it. I can get a descent job, but nothing brag worthy. And probably still won't.
However, this Velspar paint I am using.. is just not sandable. Not matter what I do, on this and other projects.. It just gums up on the paper and itself.. and makes a huge mess.

So, as I was spreading Dap filler on one such mess, to clean it up.. I had an idea. I wonder if I can shave the paint? Seemed logical to me. I shave on a regular basis. Run a sharp blade at the right angle and removing the high spots.. And hey! This putty knife looks to be prefect.

The results? In about 15 minutes I had shaved one entire side. My wife came out to check on me and saw the wood almost showing thru in a couple spots. She went to give me a hard time about them, until she touched it. "WOW!! That is silky smooth!" She said.

I will call that a success.




And with my sinus troubles... This is just awesome! No dust!


*Edit* Note of what I still need and need to do, so I can remember
I still have to cut the holes for my speakers. I have a couple of different Logitech Computer speaker sets. A 2 speaker setup, really small but nice sounds for an Arcade authentic feel. Or a 2.1 setup with a sub. Great for Music. However, my Pinball Cab has a 400W sound system in it. It makes a NICE jukebox.

My point is, likely going with the small 2 speaker setup. Considering making small Nintendo style speaker slots. Volume knob will be on the back up at the top.

Once that is done, install The light and that board properly.
Need 1 inch Aluminum channel, 4 pieces at 27 inches each. To make the Bezel and Marquee holders.
Need Plexi for those.
Need to install boards to support upper and lower bezel mounts.
Need to Install the feet I have for it. (When paint is finished)
Need to finish the Paint. 2 more coats of each black and white. Plus priming and painting the back panels Black.
Also need to paint the top of the cabinet... It has gotten missed thus far
Route hole for Power cord socket.
Install Power Strip
Get buttons for hidden Admin buttons. Install said buttons.
Reassemble and wire up coin door.

Then once the ZD Arcades get here, I can start installing the hardware.
I am still working on the software, but I am really liking GroovyMame thus far.
I will probably use Meh!Cade for the front end.

[ViriiGuy]

Well, I decided that Linux was not worth the headaches. So XP Pro went back on. I just finished transferring the 200 GB of ROM files back to the machine and will spend the next couple of days getting it set back up. The cabinet itself is waiting on parts to come in the mail and a paycheck

More updates should be forthcoming by Thursday.

[ViriiGuy]

Well, My encoders came in today Good news!!!

Bad News, Work decided that my schedule has to change for this month.. starting today. So Instead of working 5 am to 1 pm, I am stuck working noon to 8 pm.

[ViriiGuy]

The white paint is pretty much done. With the exception of the speaker panel. So I started putting the CP together. The button colors are just temporary, until we decide on the art work. Then I will buy better suited buttons.

[lamprey]

Yea, these really suck. They are workable... just not ideal.


Ok, MAME wise, I have been living under a rock for a while. I just found out about Wiimotes as guns!! This I am looking into further! A slight design change may be in store.

Thinking these would make some nice Rapture style Wii Guns...


*edit*
Hmm... After much more reading, I am seeing that Wiimotes do not triangulate properly to be able to actually AIM, due to the Wii only using 2 IR LEDs. Guess that will be a scratch.

They look pretty bio-shock themed. I'm not sure how workable it would be, but Ultimarc sells an AimTrak Light Gun Module that you might be able to swap in if you wanted to use those:
http://www.ultimarc.com/aimtrak_module.html

[ViriiGuy]

It's like Christmas at the Walker house! It is time to put the final coats of black on the front of the cab.. and Christmas paper seemed to be the most appropriate.

[ViriiGuy]

Ok, Well.. It seems like all my builds, no matter what.. contain some lessons learned.

Christmas wrapping paper makes a nice wrap for painting. So long as you don't put the printed side against the paint AT ALL.
Also, Never leave you garage door open over night. No amount of security, or privacy helps, when it comes to Feral cats.

So with those two statements, the paint is trashed. Fortunately, it was not pee'd on. But there are scratches and hair everywhere. It looks a bit like a battleground. Fortunately, my house cat seems to have either not been involved.. or was the victor. So, instead of starting from scratch on the paint, I am going to smooth it out and cover it in vinyl. But, not until I move it inside, which MAY be today. It is just too hot out there to work on it at this point.

[ViriiGuy]

Well, with my new schedule, it is going to be a while before I can do much work to the cabinet. So I have drug it inside to work on the software side for a bit.

[ViriiGuy]

Last night we achieved that oh so dangerous... Testing Phase!!!

[ViriiGuy]

Well, it is fairly obvious that my next purchase needs to be joysticks. I forgot just how much I hated these Mag Sticks. I want a 4/8way switchable joystick. I REALLY liked the ability to be able to switch these without raising the CP. But that is all I liked about them.

I would like to have a 4/8 way Joystick that I can light up with an LED, and maybe use an RC Servo to switch it on command. But I REALLY do not want to pay U360 prices.

These look promising.. Has anyone tried them out?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-4-8-Way-Joystick-Blue-Red-Illuminate-LED-MAME-JAMMA-Pacman-Happ-Sanwa-/151338928376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233c80c8f8

[Rick]

These look promising.. Has anyone tried them out?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-4-8-Way-Joystick-Blue-Red-Illuminate-LED-MAME-JAMMA-Pacman-Happ-Sanwa-/151338928376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233c80c8f8

I have a few of these from my supplier in China. They seem to be good quality. I've attached them to the PS, and they light up well. (They'll be in my shop, if I ever get the damn site up and running.)

[ViriiGuy]

Thanks Rick!
They look a lot like a Sanwa. Do you know if they are long enough to mount under a 3/4 inch CP? Also is the LED changeable? Or is it a PCB mount?

P.S. If you need help getting your storefront up. I may be able to assist you there. If you need it.

[Rick]

They look a lot like a Sanwa. Do you know if they are long enough to mount under a 3/4 inch CP? Also is the LED changeable? Or is it a PCB mount?

Here's a pic with some 3/4" MDF:



They look like there may be just enough for the stick, but I would recommend routing out the interior  for "more". As for the LED, I can't tell - it's buried inside the plexi mid-section somewhat.

P.S. If you need help getting your storefront up. I may be able to assist you there. If you need it.

I appreciate the offer! It's not the skills I lack - it's the time. (But if you have a time machine, I'll gladly take it!) Thanks!

[ViriiGuy]

Awesome! Thanks! It looks like they will work with what I have currently. I routed mine out about 1/4 inch, so I would have a bit more shaft with my current mag plus sticks.

Worst case on the LED, I am pretty handy with a dremel and solder gun... I can add an RGB later is I so desire.

And I know all about no time to do anything! Thank goodness I go back to my 5 am to 1 pm shift next week!! This noon to 8 is killing me!

Looking at those, I MAY or may not be able to get a longer shaft. It just is going to depend on how the light gets tot he ball. In some of the pics, it looks like the shaft itself has a clear tube over it and transfers the light that way, rather than via a hollow shaft.

[ViriiGuy]

I have not given up I am FINALLY off of that weird ass 12-8 shift. 3 more days and I will have my yard work caught back up. Then it is back to work!!!