Donkey Kong scratch build, my first cabinet!

[PixelPaul]

I finally decided the time is now to start my first cabinet. Ever since I was a kid I dreamt that someday I would have my own arcade game room. Fast forward 30+ years, and that time is now. Shortly after moving into our new home I began looking at CraigsList and eBay for arcade games. I was a bit surprised to find they could be found, but in good condition they were quite pricey. It wasn't long after I started looking around that I discovered the world of MAME and then this forum. It was an easy choice to decide to build my own cabinet, as it would combine my interest in computers and my enjoyment of woodworking.

I can vividly remember my first encounter with video games. Walking into Skateworld one day to find a small crowd gathered around a single Space Invaders game. After squeezing my way through the crowd and getting my first glimpse I was mesmerized. It was the coolest thing I had ever seen and I was hooked before even depositing my first quarter. Over a period of time that one arcade machine at Skateworld would grow to around a dozen. I remember all the classics being there - Pac-Man, Donkey Kong, Missile Command, Centipede, Space Invaders, Asteroids, Frogger, Pole Position and Zaxxon, with a couple of other titles periodically rotated in and out.

For a young teenager growing up in rural Wisconsin, the local Skateworld was the only arcade option. I remember my mom dropping us off for an afternoon of roller skating (or so she thought) with enough money for admission, skate rental and some food from the snack bar. Instead of skating we would sneak in the side door ($1.75 admission saved), not even bother the rent skates ($1.00 skate rental saved) and go without snacks ($1.50 saved) and spend everything at the arcade. Some really great memories of my youth took place there.

I'm sure everyone has their own favorite game, the one you would always gravitate towards when you were down to your last quarter. For me it was always Donkey Kong. I'm not sure exactly why, as I don't recall ever really being very good at it, but it always was and still is my favorite. So for my first cabinet I'll be building a Donkey Kong cabinet from scratch. For all you purists out there, beware! I plan on making a few modifications, so it will not be 100% authentic, but I think the finished product will do my favorite game justice. I'll do my best to document the build in this thread in hopes other might find it useful. Stay tuned!

[yotsuya]

So for my first cabinet I'll be building a Donkey Kong cabinet from scratch. For all you purists out there, beware! I plan on making a few modifications, so it will not be 100% authentic, but I think the finished product will do my favorite game justice.

If you're building it from scratch, no one will mind. 

[skjerk]

Subscribed! 

[gabrielmtl]

Same here, subscribed.

[wp34]

This is on my list as well so I'll be interested to follow your progress.  Welcome to the forum!

[PixelPaul]

For this build I'll be using the Jakobud plans. In reading these forums I've come across comments that these plan dimensions are not 100% authentic, but I think they will be plenty close enough for me. I'll be using 3/4" MDF for the cabinet construction. Considered 5/8" to keep the weight down a bit, but none of the local big box home improvement centers carry that size, so 3/4" it is.

Made a run to Home Depot today to get some supplies for the cabinet construction. Forgot to swap cars with my wife before she left for work so I was not able to get the MDF panels (not going to fit in a Corolla!). Picked up some other materials which included:
titebond yellow glue
Drywall screws, 1-1/4" to attach poplar cleats to MDF
Spax screws, to attach MDF panels
wheel casters
poplar strips, 3/4" x 1.5" in random lengths to use as cleats
poplar boards 3/4" x 2.5" for base


I did some research into MDF fasteners. In the past I've used drywall screws with pretty good results, but found something called SPAX at Home Depot. Supposedly designed specifically for MDF. It says no pre-drilling required, but I can't imagine how effective that will be having worked with MDF before. Will probably pre-drill anyway, but thought I would give the Spax screws a try.


Also picked up 4 wheeled casters. I know the original Donkey Kong cabinet did not have this, but being able to easily move the cabinet was a feature I wanted to add. There will be two swivel casters at the front and two locked casters in the back, so hopefully it will be easy to move around. The wheels will be inside the black base surround and protrude about 1", but when placed on carpet I think they will be hidden and the cabinet will look like it is resting on the base.

Spent ~$45, Total Cost to date: $45

[PixelPaul]

I had a bit of time before work, so why not get started building the base. The Jakobud plans call for 2-5/8" material, but Home Depot only had 2-1/2" poplar boards. Poplar is a good choice here - strong, cheap and paints well. The slight change in dimension was an easy choice compared to buying something wider and ripping to the "correct" width without a table saw. I considered making some nice 45-degree miter cuts for the base, but didn't feel I could get accurate enough angles with a chop saw or circular saw. Decided to go with a basic butt joint.


Simply cut boards to length with the chop saw, drill some pilot holes and fasten with some drywall screws and yellow glue. I countersunk the screw heads and will later cover with bondo and sand flush before priming and painting.


The wheels will extend around 1" above the base, but the carpet will hide some of the wheel and give the appearance that it is resting on the base (I hope).

Work Time ~ 1:30, Total time to date: 1:30

[EMDB]

...

Work Time ~ 1:30, Total time to date: 1:30

Don't count your hours spent! 

[jdbailey1206]

Good to see another DK cab.  I followed the Jakobud plans for my build and they really arent that far off.  I've gotten to my favorite part of the building process.   Painting.  Ugh.  Don't worry about counting  your hours.  It's like watching the clock on a road trip.  Just isn't necessary.  Sit back and enjoy the ride.  And update with plenty of pics.  Even when you make mistakes.  It will give the next guy a heads up on what not to do.  I'm looking forward to the next update and welcome to the forums. 

PS Start looking for a coin door now.  They are rare.

[PixelPaul]

Don't count your hours spent! 

Doing it out of curiosity, really. I don't really care how long it takes. I enjoy building things and woodworking is a hobby. If I wasn't building this I would likely be making something else. In fact I imagine I will enjoy building the cabinet just as much as I will playing it.

[PixelPaul]

PS Start looking for a coin door now.  They are rare.

So I've noticed! Been keeping an eye out for one for a while but haven't found anything yet. Been going back and forth in my mind what to do about the coin door. Refurbish an original (assuming I'm able to find one) install a new one (which won't look 100% original but I don't think most would know the difference) or forgo the coin door completely in favor of some artwork. The graphic designer in me says go with some artwork where the coin door should be. Not sure what direction I'll end up going.

[PixelPaul]

What's a benefit of working at a commercial printer? Access to large format printers. Made for easy work for creating a side panel template. Scaled jakobud plan to actual size and less than 5 minutes later, viola!



Otherwise a minor setback, my wife's Ford Explorer is in the shop and won't be able to pick up MDF panels today. Was hoping to have them for this weekend :-(

[mcseforsale]

Looking forward to this.

subscribed.

AJ

[mgb]

Welcome pixelpaul,
  I'm looking forward to following this project.
I look forward to seeing the mods you make too.
It's so true about having that game that just holds a strong
nostalgia for you.
For me it's always been crazy kong more so then DK
which is odd but its because that's what was at the corner store
by my house when I was young. I actually played that before I
ever saw a DK. Also Berzerk always held a special place too.

Good luck on the build. I think counting the hours may cause you
to either go crazy or drink heavily but good luck

[Slippyblade]

What's a benefit of working at a commercial printer? Access to large format printers. Made for easy work for creating a side panel template. Scaled jakobud plan to actual size and less than 5 minutes later, viola!

Just so you know, I now officially dislike you.   

I kid, really. I'm just jealous.

[SORHP]

Awesome endeavor!!!

Can I offer some advise having built a Nintendo cab and restored one..,

Buy (acquire) all your hardware first before cutting wood, it will help tremendously when needing to fit metal parts on the wood pieces incase jakobuds measurements are off (which I hear they are in a few places)

Have a blast!!!, can't wait to see the progress!

[SORHP]

Awesome endeavor!!!

Can I offer some advise having built a Nintendo cab and restored one..,

Buy (acquire) all your hardware first before cutting wood, it will help tremendously when needing to fit metal parts on the wood pieces incase jakobuds measurements are off (which I hear they are in a few places)

Have a blast!!!, can't wait to see the progress!

[SORHP]

Awesome endeavor!!!

Can I offer some advise having built a Nintendo cab and restored one..,

Buy (acquire) all your hardware first before cutting wood, it will help tremendously when needing to fit metal parts on the wood pieces incase jakobuds measurements are off (which I hear they are in a few places)

Have a blast!!!, can't wait to see the progress!

[SORHP]

Awesome endeavor!!!

Can I offer some advise having built a Nintendo cab and restored one..,

Buy (acquire) all your hardware first before cutting wood, it will help tremendously when needing to fit metal parts on the wood pieces incase jakobuds measurements are off...

which I hear they are in a few places


Have a blast!!!, can't wait to see the progress!

[SORHP]

Awesome endeavor!!!

Can I offer some advise having built a Nintendo cab and restored one..,

Buy all your hardware first before cutting wood, it will help tremendously when needing to fit metal parts on the wood pieces incase jakobuds measurements are off...

which I hear they are in a few places


Have a blast!!!, can't wait to see the progress!

[PixelPaul]

Can I offer some advise having built a Nintendo cab and restored one..,

Buy all your hardware first before cutting wood, it will help tremendously when needing to fit metal parts on the wood pieces incase jakobuds measurements are off... which I hear they are in a few

This is sound advice indeed. However I will likely be printing all my artwork at my job (have access to equipment), so I will have the ability to make things whatever size is needed.

[PixelPaul]

My wife's SUV is finally out of the shop so I was able to go and pick up the MDF panels. A few words about MDF. A 3/4" x 4' x 8' panel is VERY HEAVY and it is not the easiest thing to move around such a large size. This is definitely a two person job. Fortunately our local Home Depot has a panel saw, and is able to cut the 4' x 8' sheets into a more easily manageable size. Just make sure to plan out your parts cut list to maximize the pieces you can get out of each panel. I figured two 4' x 8' sheets would get me all the parts I needed, minus the back (probably use 1/4" plywood for this). Despite the heavy weight of MDF, it can be fragile. Corners can easily be crushed or broken off. Load and unload with care.



Spent $70 for MDF, Total spent to date: $115

[PixelPaul]

Now that I have the sheets of MDF, I started work on the cabinet today. First a public safety announcement. Cutting and sanding MDF will create a plume of fine dust that will cover everything within about a 15' radius once all the airborne particles settle out. It will cover everything. A garage or driveway (weather permitting) is an ideal place to work. If that's not an option, cover up the things you don't want cover in dust with plastic if possible. Most importantly, keep the MDF out of your lungs and eyes. A basic set of protective shop glasses and mask can be had for minimal cost, like under $10.



Working on the side panels first. Use the nice straight and square factory edge of the MDF sheet for the back and bottom of the side panel. Squared off the top of the piece to 66-1/2" using a circular saw and a straight edge clamped to the piece of MDF as a cutting guide.



Cut out the paper template and tape into position on the sheet, then trace with pencil.



If anyone is planning a Donkey Kong build and needs the template, let me know. I can fold it up and drop it in the mail to you. Hate to just toss it away, might be useful to somebody.

[PixelPaul]

Time to start cutting. A jigsaw is the tool of choice to cut the curves in the front of the side panels. Used a "wood" blade on the jigsaw, make sure to make relief cuts so the scrap pieces fall away in smaller chucks rather than a single large piece that could break off.



Try to cut a bit just outside of the trace line. My jigsaw skills were a bit rusty, and the cuts weren't as good as I would have liked. The better you are at cutting the less sanding you have to do. After cutting out both sides, clamp them together for sanding. This will allow you to do both at one time and will provide a larger surface area that will make it easier to keep the edges square.

[jmike]

Looking great. I've always wanted one of those Nintendo cabs.
You know if you're serious about shipping out that template and if its still available, I'd be happy to take it off your hands. Been planning on building a Fix it Felix cabinet.
My kids love that movie. I'll PM you my info.


Thanks.
 

[PixelPaul]

Time to clean up my amateurish cutting. Tools used for this step are an orbital sander (for straight sections) a wood file (to smoothen rough sections) and sandpaper (for curved sections).



Edge sanding MDF is pretty quick and easy, took only about 30 minutes to smoothen out my poor cuts. A quick tip, you never want to sand the faces of MDF and remove the "skin", just the side edges.



I felt like I accomplished something today, two completed side panels!



Time Spent 2:00, Total time spent to date: 3:30

[wp34]

Those sides look great. 

Hats off to you for keeping track of your time.  I for one don't like to think about that when I'm working.   

[Slippyblade]

He's probably got one of those chess timers. 

**smack timer**
**start sanding**
**smack timer**

[PixelPaul]

He's probably got one of those chess timers. 

**smack timer**
**start sanding**
**smack timer**

Times are only guesstimates. Just curious how long it will take to complete.

[Slippyblade]

He's probably got one of those chess timers. 

**smack timer**
**start sanding**
**smack timer**

Times are only guesstimates. Just curious how long it will take to complete.

I'm just giving you a hard time man, no real offence meant.    I'm enjoying the build to be honest, I've run into a finances issue with my current project so it's on hold for a couple weeks.  Living vicariously and all that.

[PixelPaul]

I'm just giving you a hard time man, no real offence meant. 

No worries, I know you were just kidding.

[jdbailey1206]

Good start Paul.  I really need to update my thread.  I don't want to be out done.     I'm surprised AJ hasn't 'subscribed' to this thread yet.  I know you're there.  Somewhere.

[mcseforsale]

HA!

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137041.msg1413856.html#msg1413856

AJ

Good start Paul.  I really need to update my thread.  I don't want to be out done.     I'm surprised AJ hasn't 'subscribed' to this thread yet.  I know you're there.  Somewhere.

[JDFan]

Just one small suggestion on the MDF panels -- Since Lowes and Home Depot will usually only do a couple cuts for free and aren't real happy if you ask them to only cut a portion of the panel like is needed in your layout posted. I'd rearrange it like shown in this pic so they can just cut the panel straight across at the 65.5" mark and then if you wanted they could make the second cut on that at the 33.375" mark again straight across the entire panel to get the entire side panels removed from the rest of the panel (rather than them having to cut and turn the semi cut panel.) leaving you 6 manageable size pieces to load in the truck !

[PixelPaul]

Just one small suggestion on the MDF panels -- Since Lowes and Home Depot will usually only do a couple cuts for free and aren't real happy if you ask them to only cut a portion of the panel like is needed in your layout posted. I'd rearrange it like shown in this pic so they can just cut the panel straight across at the 65.5" mark and then if you wanted they could make the second cut on that at the 33.375" mark again straight across the entire panel to get the entire side panels removed from the rest of the panel (rather than them having to cut and turn the semi cut panel.) leaving you 6 manageable size pieces to load in the truck !

Turns out that is exactly what I did, had a single cut made at 65.5". A 48" x 65.5" panels *just* fits in the back of a Ford Explorer with the back seats down.

[jdbailey1206]

HA!

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137041.msg1413856.html#msg1413856

AJ

Good start Paul.  I really need to update my thread.  I don't want to be out done.     I'm surprised AJ hasn't 'subscribed' to this thread yet.  I know you're there.  Somewhere.

 

[PixelPaul]

Getting ready to start the cabinet assembly. In looking over the Jackobud plans, there seems to be a few missing dimensions. Does anyone know what these might be?



1. For the marquee light box shelf, how deep is it?

2. What is the angle that monitor is mounted at?

3. How far back is the setback of the monitor?

[SlammedNiss]

you wouldn't happen to be in the market for a monitor bezel vinyl, would you? I printed out a couple when I made one for a friend, so I still have the spare sitting around. Can do the side graphics too if you need those too.

[chopperthedog]

1. 22"
2. 40 degrees
3. The tube is 3 3/4" away from the bezel block and a tad higher. (see pic)


good day.

[PixelPaul]

you wouldn't happen to be in the market for a monitor bezel vinyl, would you? I printed out a couple when I made one for a friend, so I still have the spare sitting around. Can do the side graphics too if you need those too.

Thanks for the offer but not really thinking that far ahead. You have a great looking cabinet by the way! 

[PixelPaul]

1. 22"
2. 40 degrees
3. The tube is 3 3/4" away from the bezel block and a tad higher. (see pic)

Thanks Chopper, much appreciated!

[PixelPaul]

Spent some time transferring the layout from the Jackobud plans to the cabinet sides. As the old saying goes, "measure twice and cut once". A large drywall T-square was very handy - use the straight and square sides as a reference.



Made a full size mockup of the bezel and marquee last night at work. Just a cheap inkjet print attached to a piece of cardboard. Important that the cabinet fit these two pieces in their correct size.



Hope to start assembling the cabinet this weekend!

[PixelPaul]

I have one more measurement question, #4 in the updated image below. The distance from the front of the marquee to the back where the light would mount.

[chopperthedog]

4. 5 3/4"

good day.

[Meph]

Subscribed.  I am planning to do a Nintendo cab for my next project so I am loving this thread.  Looks great so far.

[PixelPaul]

Got a bit of work done this weekend, but not as much as I would have liked :-(

Cut bottom cabinet floor shelf to size and attached to base skirt. Drilled holes for wheels, to be attached later.



Cut top shelf to size and used round-over router bit to match profile of top marquee bracket.



Attached bottom shelf cleat to both cabinet sides.



When fastening MDF, used some yellow Titebond glue and screws. Drywall screws for MDF to poplar attachment. Pilot holes are recommended, a countersink drill bit will make a pilot hole for the screw and a recess hole for the screw head (later to be covered with bondo) in one simple step.



MDF has a tendency to tear-out on the underside of the hole, so a slight recess using a straight countersink bit will help eliminate that and make for a nice tight joint.



Time spent ~3:00, total time to date 6:30.

On a slightly more exciting note, email has informed me that FedEx has left me a package of parts. Can't wait to get home and have a look!

[jdbailey1206]

Clamping your cleats probably isn't necessary if you position them correctly.  The screws will act as clamps and hold your cleats in place.  Also check out these countersink bits from Dewalt.  They are a lifesaver and you don't need to keep switching between drill bit and countersink bit.  A tad expensive but I've had mine for over a year and they are well worth their weight in gold.  Keep at it everything looks nice and clean.

AND QUIT COUNTING YOUR HOURS!!!   

[mcseforsale]

Indespensible:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-SpeedLoad-Plus-No-8-Drill-and-Driver-Kit-AR1890/100520880#

AJ

[thehammer12]

Awesome job man, cant wait to see the final results.

[PixelPaul]

Indespensible:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-SpeedLoad-Plus-No-8-Drill-and-Driver-Kit-AR1890/100520880#

That is very cool. If I would stop loaning out tools, I'd have 3 drills and could use a bit in each drill. But I guess I haven't yet learned my lesson and continue to loan out my tools, only to have to put in way to much effort to get them back.

[PixelPaul]

On Monday the T-molding arrived. On a Donkey Kong cabinet, the cabinet side edges and the front edge of the control panel gets the white colored t-molding. I ended up ordering from t-molding.com. It is sold in 20' coils, purchased 3/4" to match the width of the MDF I am using to build the cabinet. Was not able to find a definitive answer on if 20' was enough the complete a cabinet (it seems it is), but given the relatively cheap cost (compared to the cost of shipping), I went ahead and ordered 2 coils (40') to be safe. I can always use any leftovers on a future project.



It wasn't until after I placed my order that I learned that the original DK cabinet had a flat profile t-molding compared to the rounded profile I ordered. Turns out this is no big deal at all for me, as I plan to make a few modifications to my cabinet anyway, but for those of you looking to be as authentic as possible, take note. It turns out that t-molding.com has the flat profile also. Note it is 9/16", I am assuming this is the material thickness of an original DK cabinet?

Cost for 40' t-molding+shipping ~$30, total spent to date: $145

[PixelPaul]

The t-molding gets installed in a grove that is made with a router using a slot-cutter bit. One of the reasons I ordered from t-molding.com is that they also sold Whiteside router bits. As a hobbyist woodworker I have learned over the years that Whiteside router bits are as good as it gets. Always buy the best tools you can afford and you won't be sorry.



A slot-cutter router bit is usually sold as two parts: the shank and the cutter head. The cutter can be swapped out for different sizes while using the same shank. T-molding.com made it easy to select the correct sized cutter based on the size of the t-molding you were using.



The shank and cutter head ship in different packages, so you will have to assemble. There are two washers, a bearing and a nut on the shank. Assemble as shown in the picture. You don't need to fret about having the top nut being super tight. Tighten best you can with a wrench and the nut will self tighten itself when the router is started, it will not come flying off.



Very important note about installing the cutter head on the shank. Look at the photo above and note the direction of the carbide cutters. It is a common mistake to install the cutter head on backwards. You will know you have if when trying to router the slot you smell burning or need a lot of force to push the bit through the wood. When installed correctly, the slot cutter should cut like a hot knife through butter.

[PixelPaul]

Cutting the slot is actually a very simple process. You will however want to practice on a scrap piece of wood first. Since I am using 3/4" MDF for the cabinet, we want the slot cut exactly in the center, so 3/8" for my application. Draw a center line at 3/8" on a scrap piece of wood.



Adjust the router bit height on the router so it aligns with the center-line and make a test cut. A nice touch from the folks at t-molding.com, they included a half dozen scrap pieces of molding to "test" with on the practice cut. T-molding gets tapped into the slot with a rubber mallet and is perfectly centered. Ready to route the actual cabinet.



Next just clamp the cabinet sides on a flat surface and follow around the edges with the router. The bearing on the router bit shank will guide you along the cabinet edge as the cutter creates the slot to the correct depth. A simple and quick process. T-molding won't get installed until the very end, but the slots is done.



Duh! Just realized I forgot to the do the front edge of the control panel (don't even have it cut yet). Save some time and trouble and do the control panel piece at the same time as the sides while the router is setup. Oh, and by popular demand I have stopped tracking my time   

[jmike]

 
Love the progress and Q&A. You laying the ground work for most of us who are planning a Nintendo build.
Can't wait to start my Fix it Felix cab. Looking forward to your next update.
By the way you'll have to adjust T-molding slot for your control panel piece because of the plexi (+ 1/4).

 

[PL1]

Oh, and by popular demand I have stopped tracking my time   

Use the spoiler icon so the haters don't have to look at it.   

Also, Chomping Quarters has the flat 15mm Nintendo t-molding, if anyone is interested.


Scott

[chopperthedog]

It wasn't until after I placed my order that I learned that the original DK cabinet had a flat profile t-molding compared to the rounded profile I ordered. Turns out this is no big deal at all for me, as I plan to make a few modifications to my cabinet anyway, but for those of you looking to be as authentic as possible, take note. It turns out that t-molding.com has the flat profile also. Note it is 9/16", I am assuming this is the material thickness of an original DK cabinet?

I sorta did the same thing http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128979.msg1320326.html#msg1320326. On the plywood DK cabs they used 5/8 thick ply with an actual thickness of 9/16". Not sure how the flat will be on the 3/4 mdf though, might wanna stick with what you already have.

Love the progress and Q&A. You laying the ground work for most of us who are planning a Nintendo build.
Can't wait to start my Fix it Felix cab. Looking forward to your next update.
By the way you'll have to adjust T-molding slot for your control panel piece because of the plexi (+ 1/4).

 

The original and repro screen printed plexi cpo's are only 1/8" thick and do not go to the edge of the wood of the control panel. Nintendo used the same plywood and tmolding that the sides have to make the control panel with a centered slot.


good day.

[PixelPaul]

I sorta did the same thing http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128979.msg1320326.html#msg1320326. On the plywood DK cabs they used 5/8 thick ply with an actual thickness of 9/16". Not sure how the flat will be on the 3/4 mdf though, might wanna stick with what you already have.

Yes, I going to use the rounded t-molding I already have. Checked out your link, awesome job on your restore!

[SORHP]

Great work so far! Your top marquee piece of wood routing is unnecessary, neat, but the originals don't have that, it may cause an issue with the top marquee metal mounting flush , maybe not

[jdbailey1206]

Great work so far! Your top marquee piece of wood routing is unnecessary, neat, but the originals don't have that, it may cause an issue with the top marquee metal mounting flush , maybe not

Paul - The preceding picture shows how the original DK cabs were built regarding the marquee.  I don't think you should have a problem if you test fit everything.  The top marquee retainer should hang low enough to catch and hold your marquee glass.  Words of wisdom on test fitting also.  If something doesn't fit don't force it.  Or you could break the male end of your usb port off of your encoder like I did last night.     Oh well.  Back to painting for a week.   

I also sent you a pm about a certain part you may need in the foreseeable future.

[PixelPaul]

Paul - The preceding picture shows how the original DK cabs were built regarding the marquee.  I don't think you should have a problem if you test fit everything.  The top marquee retainer should hang low enough to catch and hold your marquee glass.

Thanks for the photo. I have the marquee and bezel clips on order and waiting their arrival. Not going to start cabinet assembly until I can confirm it will all fit together correctly.

[PixelPaul]

Another package arrived today, this time from twistedquarter.com. Contents:



Coin bucket (I think an original DK cabinet had a wooden box?), power cord, 4-way joystick, handles for back of cabinet, CP buttons, wiring kit and clips for control panel.



Also ordered a coin door with mechanicals. I know, all you DK purists will call "foul", this is not the coin door from an original cabinet. Seems like those are getting harder and harder to find. I thought about getting a new coin door that has the elongated shape more like the original, but in the end I decided to go with this one so I would have some room underneath it for some artwork.

Total spent on this order: $153, total spent to date: $298

[jdbailey1206]

Total spent on this order: $153, total spent to date: $298

Yeah but how many hours have you spent on it?  Kidding!  KIDDING!   

[PixelPaul]

Received another order late last week (it was like Christmas all week!), this time from Mikes Arcade. Ordered the top marquee bracket, bottom marquee/bezel bracket and speaker.



Cost of this order ~$70, total spent to date $368.

[PixelPaul]

Finally started the cabinet assembly this weekend. Wasn't sure what was the best way to assemble...on the floor or standing up? Decided on top of the workbench, nice and flat and a good working height. Assembly is pretty basic stuff - drill some pilot holes, a little yellow glue, screw and clamp.



Clamped base with rafter square, trying to keep things nice and square.



Same process with cabinet top.



An extra hand would have been useful, but the wife was not home and I didn't want to waste a work day. Used some scrap 2x6 pieces to make a "I" support to hold the other cabinet side while I positioned, drilled and squared things up.

[wp34]

Looking good.  It is always exciting to see the main carcass go together.   

I don't blame you on the coin door.  I just overpaid for one for my Fix-it-Felix build.  Not sure if that was smart or not but like you said they are getting hard to find.

Let us know how you like that joystick from Twisted Quarter.

[PixelPaul]

Thought I would continue the construction by working from the top-down. I figured most important was to get the marquee and bezel to fit correctly, and if I had to fudge some dimensions later on, no big deal. Hit my first snag in the build thus far, not sure if this is an error in the Jackobud plans or something I'm figuring wrong. I was going to install what I call the marquee shelf, which according to my plans says should be 5.2" down from the cabinet top. Did a dry fit with it in that position, but then it seems the gap is to big for the marquee. The bracket that holds the bottom of the marquee and the top of the bezel should mount from the bottom of the shelf, correct? I don't have the actual marquee yet, but made a mockup based on the dimensions show at Mikes Arcade as 22-3/8" x 5-7/8". Can somebody confirm what the measurement should be from the underside of the cabinet top, to the top surface of the marquee shelf.

[jdbailey1206]

If the marquee is 5 7/8 then I wouldn't let the space between my the bottom of my top piece of mdf and the top of my bottom piece exceed that amount.  I posted a picture of how it should sit.  I will bet you money too if you look at any picture of the marquee that space between the bottom of Nintendo icon and bottom of the actual marquee should be equal to the top space of your bottom marquee holder if that makes sense. 

Sorry for my ghetto picture too.  Me art good.   

[Automark]

...this is not the coin door from an original cabinet. Seems like those are getting harder and harder to find. ...

Here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-Coin-Door-/331114555471 and there are now some really good reproductions.
And these mechs are almost like the real ones, but really cheap, im sure you can find them in the US as well

[chopperthedog]

The bottom part of the marquee box looks to thick. When the bottom bracket is installed the tip of the marquee bracket is level to the box so that it doesn't cast a shadow when lit. You may need to notch out the bottom of the marquee box so that the 4 mounting tabs for that bracket allow it to be at the right height to avoid that shadow.

The measurement you were asking about 2 posts up is 5 1/8".

In the last week or so I've seen 4 original Nintendo coin doors for sale on klov all for around 50 bucks. They are still out there.


good day.

[PixelPaul]

Confident enough now that I have the marquee shelf in the correct position, let's continue. Working on the marquee shelf and back piece. Drilled a hole with a forstner bit, which gives a nicer hole when compared to a spade bit.



Make the hole just big enough for the fluorescent light plug to fit through. Attached the shelf and back with some yellow glue and screws.

[PixelPaul]

Next on to the the coin door panel, essentially need to cut out where the coin door will fit. There are a number of ways to accomplish this, the easiest would be just to cut the hole with a jigsaw. The opening doesn't need to be perfect, as there is a ~3/4" "lip" around the coin door that would mask some sloppy cutting. But this is where my OCD kicks in, I need to do better even though no one would ever see it.


Trace the size opening needed onto the wood, and drill a hole in each corner to start the jigsaw.


Cut out the opening with the jigsaw to within about 1/8" inside the line. No style points here, I'll clean it up with the router.


I made a template out of some heavy duty cardboard, oversized 1/8" larger than the final hole size. Center template over opening and tape into position.


Installed a bushing on the plunge router with a 1/2" spiral bit. The outside edge of the metal bushing collar will trace around the template edge while the router bit cleans up the wood edge. Made three passes, lowering the bit 1/4" each time.


A nice smooth opening when completed, coin door fits perfectly. No additional filing or sanding needed!


Drill some pilot holes, some screws and yellow glue and the coin door panel is in position. Took a bit longer than it needed to, but my OCD has been satisfied.

[mcseforsale]

Wow.  Cardboard as a template?  BALLS!

AJ

[PixelPaul]

Wow.  Cardboard as a template?  BALLS!

Actually I'm not sure what it is exactly. We have it at work. I call it cardboard but a co-worker calls it "chipboard". It is about 3/32" thick and very dense. It can be cut with a boxcutter, but not easily. Whatever it is, it works great as a router template.

[opt2not]

Whatever it is, it works great as a router template.

I think it's called Hardboard. 

[mcseforsale]

In that case, +1.  I use hardboard, too.  My router-fu is very weak, even hardboard is a challenge for me.  I'm about to make all my templates out of 3/4" 

AJ

[pinballsmith]

I have a few Nintendo coin doors leftover from my Fix-it Felix Jr. project. There really is no point in keeping them now. Anyone interested?

[adanthang]

Subscribed.  I was thinking about doing this myself.  Thanks for the detailed thread.  I will be following it closely.

Where did you grow up?  I grew up in Kimberly.

[PixelPaul]

Where did you grow up?  I grew up in Kimberly.

I grew up in Hartland. Welcome to the forum!

[PixelPaul]

My build has suffered an unfortunate setback. On February 8 we lost our beloved dog Gizmo. The couple of weeks that followed found me listless without much ambition or desire to much of anything but grieve. I'm sure some of you are rolling your eyes, but for those who you who have welcomed a pet into your lives as a member of the family and not just an animal, I'm sure you can understand. For 14+ years Gizmo was the very definition of "man's best friend", the most loyal of companions until the very end. He loved it when I worked in the shop, as he enjoyed the laying on the cool concrete floor. Little did I know when I started this build it would be our last project together. Miss you Momo, miss you alot.

[PixelPaul]

On with the build....I was strolling through the Home Depot tool aisle a few weeks ago and saw a Dewalt benchtop saw on clearance, marked down from $369 to $229. Used some HD gift cards I had accumulated over time, and left the store with the new saw for only $80 out of pocket. I'm sure it has its limitations compared to a full size cabinet saw, but for the price it sure beats using a circular saw and straight-edge like I have been. It made easy work in cutting smaller pieces like the underside of the speaker panel.



Rippped to length on the new saw, glue and screw into place.

[jdbailey1206]

Stupid onion slicing ninjas.     I wish I could tell you it gets better.  As a dog person I can completely understand.  We had to put or pitty down last year due to seizures.  I know Momo would want you to continue on.  Just throwing out ideas but it would be cool to dedicate the cab to him with a serial plate.  Sorry for your loss Paul. 

[PixelPaul]

Time for the front speaker panel. This is probably one of the most distinct features of a Nintendo cabinet, a one of the things I wasn't really looking forward to doing. There are a number of ways that one could go about making the cutouts, the easiest probably being to drill holes at the ends and then cut the straights with a jigsaw. Very doable this way, but in my quest to avoid as much sanding as possible, I decided to use the plunge router.

First draw out the dimensions onto the MDF panel. Just need the centerlines and stop marks on both ends (sorry, crappy pic).



The router needs a spiral upcut bit, this one is 1/4" diameter - the same width as the cutouts.



Set-up the plunge router for the first cut. The silver guide attached to the router references the straight edge of the board to keep the cut nice and straight. The wood strips clamped to either end keep the router from going beyond the correct length for the cut-out. The router bit is lowered an additional 1/8" per pass until the cut goes all the way through the board.



Need to reposition the router edge guide and stop blocks for each of the 7 cuts. It takes a bit of doing, but the finished result looked great!



Finally attached the speaker panel to the cabinet with some yellow glue and screws. Finally starting to look like something!

[jdbailey1206]

---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- a brick!  That's pretty.   

[PixelPaul]

Stupid onion slicing ninjas.     I wish I could tell you it gets better.  As a dog person I can completely understand.  We had to put or pitty down last year due to seizures.  I know Momo would want you to continue on.  Just throwing out ideas but it would be cool to dedicate the cab to him with a serial plate.  Sorry for your loss Paul.

Thanks for the kind words, and yes the cabinet will be dedicated to him. As it turns out seizures are what did our dog in also. He had a bad one at home one evening, and before we could get him to the animal hospital he had two more in the car. Was just hanging on when we arrived, and we had to put him down.

[jmike]

Great job on the speaker holes Paul. 
That's one of the things I'm dreading, when I start my Nintendo cab.

Also sorry to hear about your dog.   

[PixelPaul]

Next, on to the piece that holds the bottom of the bezel and contacts the control panel. Needed some material that is thicker than 3/4" stock for this piece. Thought about laminating two pieces of MDF, but the edge surface would not be very smooth for painting. Could have used a 2x4 or 2x6 but might be susceptible to twisting or warping. Had some extra 1x6 poplar laying around so I decided to use that.

Cut two pieces to rough length and laminate with lots of yellow glue and clamps.



Allowed 24 hours for glue to dry, then ripped both sides on the table saw for a nice smooth edge and crosscut to length. Now on to the router table to cut the dado for the bezel. Used a 1/4" spiral router bit, made multiple passes until it reached a depth of 1/4". The groove needs to be 5/16", so had to offset the fence a bit and take an extra pass to get the required width.



Decided to cut a slot for the control panel, which contacts this piece. This is not really necessary, but I thought that it would look better if the CP slides into a recess for a nice clean fit. Back to the router table, this time using a 3/4" mortising bit. The fence on my router table would not slide back far enough to accommodate the position I needed, so I just clamped a straight-edged board to use as a fence.



Decided to knock off a bit of the front edge, so used the router with a 45 degree chamfer bit. An original DK cabinet does not have this, but thought it would look better.



Position the piece in the cabinet, and attach with some dry wall screws through the side panels.

[jdbailey1206]

It could be me Paul but the control panel retainer looks to be sitting too high.  Take your mockup bezel and make sure it fits.  But like I said it could be me.  My iPhone tends to bend perspective when I take pictures in low lights. 

[PixelPaul]

The control panel held in place by some latches on the underside. These latches will attach at the sides. Wanted to make a surface with better holding strength that the MDF side panels, so once again used some scrap 1x6 poplar. Cut an angle on the chop saw to match the slope of the control panel and attached to cabinet sides with some yellow glue and drywall screws. Also added an additional piece below the CP slot to provide some additional contact area for some extra support. Ripped a bevel to to once again match the angle of the CP and attached with drywall screws and yellow glue.



Next cut the piece of MDF for the control panel. Need to cut a bevel on the edge that slides into the groove, did that on the table saw. Also need to cut a slot for the T-molding on the opposite side. Should have done this when I routed the T-slots on the cabinet sides, but forgot about this piece.



Current state of cabinet, with cardboard mockup bezel & marquee.

[jdbailey1206]

[PixelPaul]

It could be me Paul but the control panel retainer looks to be sitting too high.  Take your mockup bezel and make sure it fits.  But like I said it could be me.  My iPhone tends to bend perspective when I take pictures in low lights.

Good eye, the jackobud plans I'm using are off a bit. But I cut a mockup bezel and marquee (on backorder from mikesarcade.com) to known dimensions to be certain everything fits in relationship to these two pieces. So while it's a bit off, it's close enough for me! 

[talkgeek]

Looking really good 

[urbanledge]

Looking ace!
I'll be starting on mine soon enough,
just waiting on a few more bits to be delivered!
Could you take a look at the cad drawing I did and see what you think?
I believe the jackobud ones to be off in height,width and depth 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ldwhsealvkdv9yb/Full%20Plans%20no%20dimensions.dxf

[PixelPaul]

Could you take a look at the cad drawing I did and see what you think?
I believe the jackobud ones to be off in height,width and depth 

It appears your file upload is in some kind of CAD format, which would require CAD software (which I don't have). I think the Jackobud plans are pretty close, enough so that you would likely not be able to tell unless you had an authentic DK cabinet next to it. I'm guessing some of the "die-hards" on this forum can note the minute differences, but I sure can't. I don't think any family or friends are going to either. The one issue I noticed is the dimensions by the top marquee were a bit off. The key for me was to know the dimensions of the marquee and bezel, and to work around those. Those two pieces *must* fit. I ordered from mikesarcade.com, which indicate the dimensions as:

bezel: 20-1/4" H x 22-7/16" W
marquee: 5-7/8" H x 22-3/8" W

If you are going with the custom print sandwiched between plexiglass for the marquee and bezel, than even this wouldn't matter. You could make them any size you wanted and customize the size to fit. I'm sure others more knowledgeable can chime in here. Also do a forum search, before I started my build I found several posts where people requested certain dimensions from an authentic cabinet.

[urbanledge]

Check out the free cad software draftsight,
very handy!
Im making a 100% scale template of mine on a laser cutter in work at  the moment.
unfortunately the laser wont cut wood!
so just out of cardboard at the moment!

Yours is looking sweet.Ive never seen a nintendo cab in real life .....

[jdbailey1206]

Could you take a look at the cad drawing I did and see what you think?
I believe the jackobud ones to be off in height,width and depth 

It appears your file upload is in some kind of CAD format, which would require CAD software (which I don't have). I think the Jackobud plans are pretty close, enough so that you would likely not be able to tell unless you had an authentic DK cabinet next to it. I'm guessing some of the "die-hards" on this forum can note the minute differences, but I sure can't. I don't think any family or friends are going to either. The one issue I noticed is the dimensions by the top marquee were a bit off. The key for me was to know the dimensions of the marquee and bezel, and to work around those. Those two pieces *must* fit. I ordered from mikesarcade.com, which indicate the dimensions as:

bezel: 20-1/4" H x 22-7/16" W
marquee: 5-7/8" H x 22-3/8" W

If you are going with the custom print sandwiched between plexiglass for the marquee and bezel, than even this wouldn't matter. You could make them any size you wanted and customize the size to fit. I'm sure others more knowledgeable can chime in here. Also do a forum search, before I started my build I found several posts where people requested certain dimensions from an authentic cabinet.

Check out the free cad software draftsight,
very handy!
Im making a 100% scale template of mine on a laser cutter in work at  the moment.
unfortunately the laser wont cut wood!
so just out of cardboard at the moment!

Yours is looking sweet.Ive never seen a nintendo cab in real life .....

[jdbailey1206]

 

[urbanledge]

Finished mine over the weekend 

[DarakuTenshi]

You guys are making me want to build a Nintendo cab. My Hyperspin cab originally was going to be in this style until I changed my mind. Now... I'm wanting to go back and do it. My thoughts are to create a "Nintendo Classics" cab that will play only the old Nintendo games from the 80's.

[SORHP]

You guys are making me want to build a Nintendo cab. My Hyperspin cab originally was going to be in this style until I changed my mind. Now... I'm wanting to go back and do it. My thoughts are to create a "Nintendo Classics" cab that will play only the old Nintendo games from the 80's.

I had that same thought !
But there are too many horizontal games, so you'd need 2 nintendo cabs, one for vertical games, and one for horizontal games
Which is what I did... A super punchout, and a fifjr, and also in the near future a dk will be finished

[chopperthedog]

Finished mine over the weekend 

Odd choice for the monitor angle.


good day.

[skjerk]

Why is that angle odd?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PixelPaul]

The weather here in the midwest is turning crappy, so it's time to abandon outdoor projects and resume my cabinet build! I should have started it earlier last winter, once the weather turned nicer it was time to do outside work and I haven't touched to cabinet in since May. Next step will be to work on the back. A Google image search has turned up empty, can anyone help with some pictures of what the back of a Donkey Kong cabinet looks like?

[jdbailey1206]

Glad to see youre back Paul.

[DaOld Man]

Good job! Love Donkey Kong and love to see people restore them or replicate them.
 

[wp34]

The weather here in the midwest is turning crappy, so it's time to abandon outdoor projects and resume my cabinet build! I should have started it earlier last winter, once the weather turned nicer it was time to do outside work and I haven't touched to cabinet in since May. Next step will be to work on the back. A Google image search has turned up empty, can anyone help with some pictures of what the back of a Donkey Kong cabinet looks like?

Glad to see you are back.  I love this build.

I've got a DK Jr that was converted to RBI Baseball.  If that will do I'll take some pictures tomorrow.  I can take measurements as well if you need them.

[ChanceKJ]

Yeah, glad to see you back at this. I'm really jealous of this project and want to build one myself. One day. Soon. 

[PixelPaul]

I've got a DK Jr that was converted to RBI Baseball.  If that will do I'll take some pictures tomorrow.  I can take measurements as well if you need them.

Thanks. That would be great and most appreciated!

[jdbailey1206]

I've got a DK Jr that was converted to RBI Baseball.  If that will do I'll take some pictures tomorrow.  I can take measurements as well if you need them.

Thanks. That would be great and most appreciated!

You could check out my FFJR build Paul.  Should have pics of the back.

[javeryh]

Just seeing this for the first time.  Nice job so far.  DK is my favorite cab!