Falk3r's Build (UAII)

[Falk3r]

Falk3r's Stats (Scale: 1-10)
Planning - 9   Mechanical Engineer by training, solid CAD skills.
Woodworking - 5  I can cut straight lines with power tools.
Electronics - 6  I build my own PCs and wire my own networks.
Software - 3  I can run software. I cannot write software.
Art Design - 3  I know how to paste my face onto someone else's body in Photoshop. I cannot create original art.

The Dream
Full-size upright cabinet, two players (1x 4/8 joystick, 7x buttons each), trackball to play shmups, fighters, brawlers primarily, classics secondarily. Desktop powered, CRT monitored, based on the Mameroom Ultimate Arcade II cabinet plans.



I'm trying to come up with a way to make it more... modular. I'm sure I'll have to move at some point in the future and don't want to leave this behemoth behind. Making the top/bottom fasteners bolts instead of wood screws would allow for dis-assembly later, but will probably look like crap.

I'm thinking of utilizing one of Slagcoin's button layouts with the top left button deleted, leaving a Neo-Geo + 3 above thing going on:



Art/theme is entirely TBD. I'm really just excited to play some arcade titles in their proper format. I might steal jdbailey1206's Spaceman Spiff idea. C&H has always had a special place and I was looking for something space-centric.

Progress

After much too much lurking and reading, I've ordered... well... pretty much everything, except the components to be picked up at the local hardware store. Buttons, joysticks, trackball, ipac2, components for mid-grade PC, audio amp/speakers, coin door, display. This week I was talking about my cabinet plans for the umpteenth time with the wife and she said, "If you're going to do it, go ahead and do it already." Blamo, carte blanche.

I'll do what I can to document the process here, but, come on. How hard can it be? 

Thank you in advance for any advice or suggestions.

Current Questions

• Light Guns - Are these a bolt-on? Can I build up my cabinet without 'em and just put these in later? Drill some holes, mount some USB passthroughs, install some holsters, setup the software and BLAMO?
• Frontend Admin Buttons - I'm looking to keep these to an absolute minimum, but I realize I probably need a few. Pause and Exit are the only two I "need" so far... what else is mandatory (or just really helpful) that should have a dedicated button? Think: guests / kids.
• CP Thickness - If I'm using 3/4" MDF for the entire construction, and 3/4" T-Molding all around, I'll need to downgrade the CP top to 5/8" MDF to leave room for the 1/8" Plexiglass topper, right? And then offset the T-Mold slot to account for this?
• CP Drilling - Is it recommended to drill the MDF and Plexiglass in one operation (straight thru both)? Is there a DIY technique to cut the plexiglass to the not-rectangular shape of my CP, or do I need to special order for that?

[Drnick]

Current Questions

• Light Guns - Are these a bolt-on? Can I build up my cabinet without 'em and just put these in later? Drill some holes, mount some USB passthroughs, install some holsters, setup the software and BLAMO?
• Frontend Admin Buttons - I'm looking to keep these to an absolute minimum, but I realize I probably need a few. Pause and Exit are the only two I "need" so far... what else is mandatory (or just really helpful) that should have a dedicated button? Think: guests / kids.
• CP Thickness - If I'm using 3/4" MDF for the entire construction, and 3/4" T-Molding all around, I'll need to downgrade the CP top to 5/8" MDF to leave room for the 1/8" Plexiglass topper, right? And then offset the T-Mold slot to account for this?
• CP Drilling - Is it recommended to drill the MDF and Plexiglass in one operation (straight thru both)? Is there a DIY technique to cut the plexiglass to the not-rectangular shape of my CP, or do I need to special order for that?

Answers in order of questions.

1) Lightguns can be added in the future, You show you are going down the CRT route and I am unsure which if any guns will work straight out the box without any modifications. Most guns now are designed to work on any screen so have an infra red emitter much like the wii. This would need installing above the monitor.
2) Admin buttons,  If you are going with arcade machine games only you want Pause & Exit with nothing else required.  (You can always set up shifted functions etc for other stuff).  If you are running consoles etc then maybe Save/Load.  I would not have any buttons that allow you to get into admin functions etc.
3) That is entirely 100% correct
4) Drill the holes for control panel, then put plexi on top of this and then a piece of scrap wood.  You would then either drill through the plexi into the scrap or you could drill a smaller hole just large enough for a router bit and then route the plexi. I would not really recommend doing the control panel and plexi at the same time.  As for the outside edge you will want to have trimmed the plexi as close to the proper size as possible first then run a router with pattern bit to have it exact.

As for your stats, The first 3 are the most important
Art is easily found online and then modified to suit, either that or have a look at the artwork section on the site for ideas and or people that can help make your ideas a reality.
Software, you don't need to be able to write software to build an arcade machine.  You will want to decide what fronted to use though

[Falk3r]

Thanks, Drnick!

Progress Since Last - Desktop Build
I've received most of the components for the PC that will power MAME:

• Case - Rosewill Line-M MicroATX
• Powersupply - Corsair TX650
• Motherboard - ASRock H77M
• CPU - Intel Core i5-3550P
• Videocard - ArcadeVGA 3000
• RAM - Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB = 8GB DDR3 1600
• HDD - Seagate Barracuda 1TB
• Disc Drive - ASUS 24x DVD Burner
• Wifi - ASUS PCE-N15
• Input - Logitech Wired Keyboard/Mouse Combo

Total cost, including tax/shipping = $697.73 (Ordered 2013/03/19)

They're all installed, except the AVGA3k to arrive Monday.



Lesson Learned: That powersupply was a pain to squeeze in the MicroATX case. I would recommend an alternate power supply with removable cords to minimize the bulk, like this one: Corsair - Modular Cables for only $15 more.

I did have one scare in the assembly, after everything was together I got a POST beep code of 5x shorts which is a Processor Error, something I haven't experienced before. I stripped the build down to the case, powersupply, CPU, and RAM -- still got the error. I reseated the CPU -- still got the error. I was about to swap out another Intel 775 series CPU to check the mobo, but I thought maybe I got the wrong motherboard/CPU combo? In my searches, I see that the motherboard I got only has integrated video if the CPU supports it -- mine does not. So, my hope is when I put the AVGA3k in there on Monday, things will boot up nicely. I hope.

Current Questions

• CP Plexi Attachment - Will the threaded pushbuttons be enough retention to keep the plexiglass down? Or should I plan on counter-sinking some fasteners down into the MDF? (or any other suggestions?)
• Software Setup - I think this will be a "figure it out while I do it" sort of thing, but just wanted to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. Once I have my desktop with Windows 7 updated, good drivers, etc, I'll throw Hyperspin on there, MAME 0.148u2, and enjoy the menu screens. Right?

[/list]

[dfmaverick]

Current Questions

• CP Plexi Attachment - Will the threaded pushbuttons be enough retention to keep the plexiglass down? Or should I plan on counter-sinking some fasteners down into the MDF? (or any other suggestions?)

Buttons and the lip of the T-molding is usually enough to hold it down for most.

[Drnick]

• Software Setup - I think this will be a "figure it out while I do it" sort of thing, but just wanted to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. Once I have my desktop with Windows 7 updated, good drivers, etc, I'll throw Hyperspin on there, MAME 0.148u2, and enjoy the menu screens. Right?

[/list]

Sort of,  If you have a platinum membership at hyperspin & Emumovies and you use hypersync to get everything then yeah pretty much.

[Falk3r]

Drnick - Thanks again, that's the first I've heard of Emumovies. If having a Platinum membership to Hyperspin simplifies things as much as they claim, I have no qualms dropping $45 for the privilege.

Progress Since Last Build

I've spent the last week checking off a spousal request -- improved storage in the basement. Here's the before/after:



On the arcade cabinet front, I've installed and set up the OS (Windows 7) and tested a quick install of MAME -- Yep, The Simpsons is lookin' pretty sweet! Once the actual monitor arrives (any day, Suzo-Happ, any day...) I'll start dabbling into GroovyMAME and some of the finer display-related settings.

After exhausting all local lumber providers (and their distributors) I must admit that 5/8" MDF is not available, unless I want to buy "a bunk" ~24 sheets (@ $90+ ea). I've started scaling the UAII design up from 5/8" thk to 3/4" thk and let me tell you, their provided drawings are crap. In fact, there are more than a few small tweaks I'm making to the design -- get in touch with me via PM if you'd like more details into my documentation.

• 5/8" MDF -> 3/4" MDF
• Adding some recessed wheels to the back of the cabinet for maneuvering. Suzo-Happ 33-1198-00
• Adjusting the marquee shape to reduce odd angles in cuts.

The issue with going to 3/4" MDF is that my 3/4" T-Molding won't fit once I slap some laminate on the sides. I think I'll put a 45-degree chamfer on the edges, post-laminate, to reduce the end width to 3/4" to match the T-Molding... and then come back and touch-up paint that chamfer black. Might look a little funky... but I'm not sure what else to do... even tmolding.com doesn't offer 7/8" T-Molding. They have 13/16", but I just don't think that'll be enough of a difference from my 3/4" to justify buying another 50' of it.

I've ordered in a couple metric forstner bits from Amazon, ~$9 each to match my 24mm and 30mm button sizes.

Now that the basement shelving is behind me, I'm ready to start cuttin', laminating, and routing. That ought to keep me busy for a good couple weeks I figure.

[Dekieon]

If you are looking for red or black, twistedquarter.com has 7/8" T-molding.

[Endaar]

Regarding modularity...I have a UAII kit. The top and bottom halves are held together with locking cams, the kind you see on Ikea furniture. Not sure what their proper name is. This actually works pretty well because the top part can be placed on the bottom before being secured in place. I have not had to move it - fortunately - but separating the two halves wouldn't be a problem. The control panel is also easily removed although that is held on with L brackets.

I like the kit overall, but it definitely has its flaws, which would be much easier to correct when building from scratch. Take a good look at how you want to approach the keyboard tray in particular.

As for admin buttons...I look at it this way...YOU will be fine with shifted controls for certain functions, but will your friends? I have four admin buttons: tab, pause, reset, exit. I also have a functional coin door and a bucket of tokens next to the cab. The tab button is mostly for my use, but the other buttons and the tokens make it easy for anyone to step up to the cab and figure out how to play. That trumps any minimalist design for me.

Endaar

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last - Construction Begins
I've cut out the biggest and most complex four pieces of the UAII cabinet plan:


I took special care when cutting the first of each matched set and then over-sized the second piece by 0.25". Then I was able to use a pattern router bit and get two exact copies.



This photo shows the pencil indicating the actual, final dimensions and the extra material hanging off the edge about to get routed off.

Unfortunately, things didn't go flawlessly. My saw horse earned its first battle scar tonight:



Tomorrow I need to wrap up my CAD work on the rest of the cabinet and hopefully I'll get my sample of Wilsonart Laminate in the mail -- I need to know how thick that stuff is so I can take it into account when cutting the horizontal pieces of the cabinet.

The monitor width will be 25.00", meaning the lower half of the cab is 25.00". I'm using 0.75" thk MDF, meaning the lower half horizontal pieces (coin door, keyboard tray, and structural members) need to be 25.00 - 0.75x2 - Laminate_Thicknessx2.

[ninja edit] To answer my own question, the Wilsonart laminate weighs in at .048" thick. (SOURCE)

My plan is to cut a long board of MDF at the appropriate width and then cut that down into individual pieces. Actual laminate sheets won't be in until 4/16 (two weeks) so I'll have to find some other work to keep me busy while I wait. Maybe I can use that time to configure my software.

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

Spent another 90 minutes tonight cutting all the lower-half, horizontal supports (9 pieces):

[CoryBee]

Progress Since Last

Spent another 90 minutes tonight cutting all the lower-half, horizontal supports (9 pieces):

Sweet Jesus!

This....This I like.

[Falk3r]

Here are some CAD models of how the lower half will come together. I wanted to make sure the dimensions provided by the UAII instructions were correct, as whoever did their drafting was probably in high school (missing dimensions, poor reference datum selections, etc).





In this photo you see that I've made a couple minor modifications. I've truncated the back tail of the design by 1.5", such that I can fit additional bracing under the sloping surface. I'll be using 2"x4" laid flat, mitered at 45-degrees, to form a strengthening framework to attach the wheels and leveling feet to (via T-Nuts).



Current Questions

• Do I need to laminate and/or paint all the interior surfaces of the cabinet? Is the MDF a perpetual source of dust which will prematurely destroy the computer housed within?

[Falk3r]

Here are some CAD renders of the control panel construction. Design borrowed heavily from paulscade.



I think the button/joystick/trackball placement looks pretty solid, but I think I want the sides to run clear to the back, instead of stopping at the near edge of the back piece... it'll make laminating look better I think.



I've modeled up a USB passthru on either side's 45-degree chamfer to be used with P3/P4 gamepads or Lightguns 1&2.

[EDIT] That's more like it:

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

I dove right into the Control Panel yesterday and this morning, did some experimenting with double-sided tape and scrap MDF to jig up my top-mount joystick routing:



Pro-tip: Double sided tape only sticks once, use clean stuff every time. My guides moved during the second route 

Here's how the first one came out, that's a nice fit. My new router has quickly become my favorite toy tool.



To thin out the CP so the button nuts would be able to thread on, I had to route away the backside around the button holes. I had dreams of calling up a friend with a 3D printer, because I could easily model up a perfect routing jig to match my hole pattern... but I decided to just freehand an outline in pencil and see how well I could follow it.



Yes, building a custom jig would have been a little neater... but the job got done quick and I'm pretty pleased with my free-hand routing work. I recommend a sharp bit and going really slowly. I rested the heels of my hands on the work piece and just used my fingertips to glide the router around. And as always, move against the rotation of the tool, not with it.



After I got that done, I had to throw some buttons in there to get a feel. Oh man, it feels so real. I cannot wait.



I still have a few more hours of work ahead of me here. Before I clean out the full volume for the joysticks, I want to use that hole as a template for the Lexan overlay. The next step is to clear out a 2.5" square around that hole (hence, removing the hole) for the joystick... and THEN routing away part of the bottom part leaving only ~.25" for the joystick to grab onto. I snagged a couple threaded inserts from Ultimarc... I'm a little nervous about how little material will be left, but I'll sort it out if a problem arises.

I also need to get a 3" hole saw, or a Jasper Jig so I can clear out a hole for the trackball, route away the top for the trackball mounting plate, and any underside clearances needed. I've got a mounting plate on order from Suzo Happ, and I want to get that in-hand before I start cutting anymore from the CP.

Next Up...

• Bottom and sides for Control Panel box
• Route T-Molding slots in CP top, and cabinet sides

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

I cut the T-molding slot into the upper and lower side pieces and the control panel top... and I think I properly offset it to account for the lexan topper, time will tell.

I've cut a 3" hole for the Trackball in the CP top MDF and jigsaw'd a coindoor sized hole in my front lower panel.

Current Questions:

• I need your help, in my above plans for a control panel box, I was thinking I could assemble the box (less the lid, 7 pieces total) and then laminate all external surfaces (5 surfaces: front, back, bottom, left, right + angled-sides). Is this possible? I mean, can I glue the laminate to a side piece, router-trim it flush across the bottom and then laminate the bottom piece, and router-trim that flush to the side (previously laminated) piece?
  
  Not sure if that makes sense, but to summarize... will the finished external corner of two-or-three intersecting laminated portions look good?
  
  No? I'm going to have to put some T-molding around the perimeter of that bottom piece, aren't I?

[rablack97]

If your talking where the corners meet yes it look good, laminate and use a hand sander with about 200 grit sandpaper and sand down the edges, you'll be pretty surprised at how it looks....

I'm in the middle of a complete laminate build (bartop), just dont sand too far, sand and thumb check for smoothness, once its smooth stop, wipe down, and done...

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

I have cut all of the exterior MDF components and begun laminating parts in black or white Wilsonart countertop laminate. I done goofed by laminating the upper, exterior surfaces before assembly... meaning now counter-sunk screw heads will be visible. Let the lesson to the reader be: if you assemble before the exterior surface is laminated, you can hide those fasteners.

I have used a Jasper Jig to route speaker holes as well as counter-boring to recess the speakers up into the cabinet by ~0.5".



After I finish laminating, I plan to chamfer the compound angle joints into the pieces with a table saw... and then it's time for assembly!

If other threads are any indication, either things move very quickly at that point... or posting updates becomes a hassle.

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

Finished up most of the work on the Control Panel box, including framing up the sides and hinging on the top.

I'm using some Rockler hinges (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=255&site=ROCKLER). Take a look:









Lessons Learned:

• Make sure you have enough room for your hinges, I had to move mine to the side. It's hard to use them on an angled edge like this.
• Don't put fasteners where you intend to cut a slot for T-Molding... my slot is deep where I can have it deep, but the install will be a major headache now that I have to trim the part of the T-Molding where it will interfere with the screws.
• Make sure you have room for your hardware... you can see where one joystick panel and the trackball panel had a near miss... and where I had to route out some extra clearance in the CP Box for the trackball.

[ids]

That is an awful lot of screws on the bottom there - any particular reason for using so many?

[Falk3r]

any particular reason for using so many?

I don't have anything joining the sides of the box higher up (except for some wood glue) and I was concerned about shearing off the screws if the top was pushed; i.e. long moment arm. Additionally, I know MDF's propensity to soften around screw threads when stressed... so I really wanted to stiffen up those joints. Also-also -- screws are cheap... this thing will already weigh a metric ton, might as well make the joints rigid as well.

TL;DR: Engineer says "more screws are better".

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

I began piecing together the lower half of the cabinet, including rear wheels and front leveling feet:







This thing will weigh a TON... I wonder if I'll have to sell it with the house when I leave?

[jdbailey1206]

Good solid build.  Are we still looking to steal my Spaceman Spiff theme?   

[Falk3r]

Hahah, honestly -- I was thinking about it... but now I'm leaning towards a Penny-Arcade "The Lookouts" theme.

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

Drawer has been installed:





But what I really need from you fellers is some artistic feedback. Here's a cropping of the previous image sized to my marquee shape. Thoughts?

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

The lower half of the cabinet is done, with the exception of T-Molding, woohoo! 

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

Cut out the sides for some handles and dropped the CP on top for a quick fit check.



.

T-Molding should arrive today... I'll get that on there and begin installing the upper half which will wrap around the monitor and house the marquee and speakers.

[Falk3r]

Progress Since Last

Monitor has been mounted (lower bracket) and the sides are up:



HyperSpin is getting configured... HyperSync is super slick and provided all the graphics/videos... ROMLister helped in thinning the ROM list...

I need to get some of those large-size crimp connectors to wire down to the coin slots and mount up the marquee and speakers, design the artwork, and blamo -- Game Over (victory condition).

[CaptainMarvel]

What's the latest with this build


 

[blueznl]

I want to see that Penny Arcade artwork 'in action'!

[blueznl]

Did you download that artwork somewhere, or recreate it yourself?

[Falk3r]

After things got functional, progress on my cabinet build ground to a halt... and then I moved 1200 miles... and now I need some help finishing it up and could use your help! What sources of supply can you suggest for the following items?

• Custom cut, grey-tinted glass to cover monitor?
• Custom print, translucent art for lit-marquee?
• Custom print, adhesive-backed art for cabinet sides?
• Custom print art to put beneath control panel?
• Side-mount cabinet holsters for Aimtrak light guns?

[Endaar]

I ordered my glass from http://www.onedayglass.com; they have a variety of tints.

http://www.gameongrafix.com/categories/mameroom-sideart has a selection of artwork specifically designed for the UAII. I'm not sure if they do custom work, but when I had ordered mine, I asked for a change to one of their standard bezels and they were agreeable. My cab is about five years old now and the artwork has held up really well; no complaints.

Endaar

[CaptainMarvel]

Hey Falk3r . . . .


Any updated pics of your build to share ... or is the current state pretty much the same as the last pics you posted?

[Falk3r]

Awesome, thanks Endaar!

CaptainMarvel -- here's the latest I've got: