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Author Topic: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)  (Read 17000 times)

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ataruzzolo

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 4/30/12)
« Reply #40 on: May 02, 2012, 05:38:12 pm »
I agree. Very impressive. Why did you use two actuators?

Because I had two...! The first prototipe used two opposing actuators with the motor in the middle, than I shortened the lenght of the crank so now I only need half the stroke. I also paired the actuators because the LEGO construction seems to be more firm.

ataruzzolo

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 4/30/12)
« Reply #41 on: May 02, 2012, 05:50:29 pm »

Now that I have the mechanical stops figured out, need to work on limit switches now.


In my first photo you can see my solution: limit switch combined to mecanical switch. The chassis of the monitor hits an ex coin microswitch --> the motor stops --> the chassis hits the wood and can't turn further.

DaOld Man

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 4/30/12)
« Reply #42 on: May 02, 2012, 06:41:21 pm »

Now that I have the mechanical stops figured out, need to work on limit switches now.


In my first photo you can see my solution: limit switch combined to mecanical switch. The chassis of the monitor hits an ex coin microswitch --> the motor stops --> the chassis hits the wood and can't turn further.

Looks good. Why didnt I think of the coin switches? I have two laying around, but I will have to buy new ones when it comes time to mount the coin door. I'll worry about that then. ;D

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/02/12)
« Reply #43 on: May 03, 2012, 05:48:11 am »


« Last Edit: May 06, 2012, 04:04:42 pm by ataruzzolo »

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/02/12)
« Reply #44 on: May 03, 2012, 10:23:11 am »
Had no idea those lego actuators were that strong.
Excellent work!

DaOld Man

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/02/12)
« Reply #45 on: May 03, 2012, 10:23:44 pm »
Ok, got my limits fabbed.

I bought two 3/8" ID collars and three 3/8" ID X 1-5/8" OD fender washers. (Only used 2 of the washers.)



I drilled a hole through each collar and through the fender washer.
I then attached the washer to the collar with a small bolt and nut.
I then ground off nearly half of each washer.
After this picture, I had to grind some off the head of the bolt and the nut to clear the 3/8" shaft.
This was very tricky and I dont think I did a pretty job, but it works.
If you do this, I highly suggest you use a drill press, I couldnt imagine doing it on a hand drill. Welding the washer to the collar would be a lot easier, but I dont have a welder.



I then mounted my limit switches, one on opposite ends of the shaft.
Here is one:



And the other:



The switches are wired to normally open contact. The washer holds the limit switch closed until the ground off part rotates around, then the switch opens.
I can easily adjust stopping points by loosening the bolt in the collar and turning the collar a bit.
Works very good.
(Somebody needs to pitch me a fish!)

Got the relay drive mounted:



And the motor wired in:



Sorry about the quality of the pics, I think the batteries were going down in the cam.

I hooked this to my desktop PC and it works great!

I have a video made, I will try to upload to youtube and post later.

Now I need to tidy up my wiring, need to fasten motor and limit switch wires to the 2X4's. Will probably use staples.
I also need to ground the actuator frame and maybe the shaft, although it is grounded to the monitor, so that may not be necessary.

Edit: Removed double post of a pic.

« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 07:53:18 am by DaOld Man »

DaOld Man

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #46 on: May 03, 2012, 10:31:21 pm »
Video. Excuse the quality the battery died in the cam before I could get a better shot.



Edit: Ignore me taling in the background, I was on the phone and didnt realize the cam would pick me up. Also the squeaking is my desk chair. And I promise that small squeak at about 8 secs is the chair!

The monitor is not perfectly level, but I will level it up with the cabinet when I install it. Shouldnt be a big deal, just trial and error with the limit switch cams. (Collars and washers).
« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 11:05:21 am by DaOld Man »

ataruzzolo

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #47 on: May 06, 2012, 02:02:28 pm »
What a neat solution! Very good  ;)

[Noob mode on]
How do you attach the youtube video preview?
[Noob mode off]

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #48 on: May 06, 2012, 03:47:20 pm »
What a neat solution! Very good  ;)

[Noob mode on]
How do you attach the youtube video preview?
[Noob mode off]


Hit quote on his post and check out his code.

Code: [Select]
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4oEnLlBQ3s#]parts 007.MOV[/url]


ataruzzolo

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #49 on: May 06, 2012, 04:06:12 pm »
Hit quote on his post and check out his code.

Code: [Select]
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4oEnLlBQ3s#]parts 007.MOV[/url]

Thanks  :cheers:

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #50 on: May 06, 2012, 07:30:25 pm »
Good stuff, too bad I only have big old CRTs to use(they were free).
"You don't know the power of the Dark Side"
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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #51 on: May 07, 2012, 06:11:20 pm »
Looks to me like you could be the first to rotate a CRT with one of those actuators. Are you up for the challenge?

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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #52 on: May 08, 2012, 08:23:24 pm »
Don't you ever want me to finish my cabinet :dizzy:
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Re: MRotate4 (Update 5/03/12 I have my limits!)
« Reply #53 on: May 08, 2012, 10:39:11 pm »
Do any of us ever finish our cabinet?   :scared

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Re: Actuator Project ( Important update)
« Reply #54 on: September 04, 2013, 03:08:10 pm »
Sorry for the bump, but just in case anyone decides to build my serial port motor drive, I have found a potential problem.
I tested this drive on a different computer, and found that the inputs on that computer tend to float. This did not happen on the computer that I designed this circuit with.
So if you build this, I suggest you bread board it first and test on your computer.
It may be necessary to add 10K resistors from each input pin to the ground.
I would like to have input from anyone who has built this circuit.
Also, not sure if I already mentioned it, but the serial port, when the computer boots up, tries to communicate with any devices connected to it. This is undesirable because in this setup, it will make the motor jerk one way or the other during computer boot up.
I never found a way to overcome this, except to add a timer that allows time for the computer to completely boot before the serial drive gets any power.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #55 on: February 19, 2014, 12:08:37 am »
It's been awhile since you posted but I'm on board for trying this circuit out. I'm currently trying to combine this interface into my discreet h-bridge. I'm pretty sure I have it figured out.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #56 on: February 20, 2014, 10:53:08 am »
It's been awhile since you posted but I'm on board for trying this circuit out. I'm currently trying to combine this interface into my discreet h-bridge. I'm pretty sure I have it figured out.

That's good. Do you have any pics or schematics?
Remember what I said about the serial port flashing its outputs (polling) during computer bootup.
Since serial only has two outputs, all I can figure to fix this is a timer that will "kill" the circuit until pc has time to boot up and get past the serial polling.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #57 on: February 20, 2014, 04:58:02 pm »
Here's what I have so far:

I haven't forgotten about the startup port flashing. Although the Cabinet will most likely be on most of the time. :D

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #58 on: February 21, 2014, 01:56:05 pm »
Good job!
Just a note for anyone wanting to try this: I found that on a different computer the inputs tended to float, so I had to tie each input to ground with a high value resistor. (cant remember the value, but I would try a 200K).
This was not necessary for the computer I developed the circuit on, so you may or may not need the pull down resistors.

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Re: Actuator Project ( First Beta of Mrotate4 uploaded here.)
« Reply #59 on: April 28, 2017, 07:27:53 pm »
Monkey Voodoo:
Your email provider kept rejecting my attached file (tried rar and zip, didnt like any of it.)
So Im posting it here so you can test it.
Note to everyone: This is still a work in progress, and may have some bugs in it, so if you download it, please be aware that it is still a beta product.
I tend to update this when I iron out any bugs.
If anyone wants to beta test for me, that would be great.

Unzip this to mrotate4.exe.
It may have some bugs in it and I know there are a couple of things I need to finish up.
When you first run it it will make you run the setup mode.
Choose your com port, input pins and output pins.
Also choose your commands to turn vertical or horizontal (I suggest 0 for horz and 90 for vert.)
You can also run a test while in this setup mode.
When you get it set up the way you want, close it, make sure you save the settings
Then you should be able to run it from a cmd window or line, type mrotate4 + the direction command (Example: mrotate4 90)
If you type just mrotate4, it will open up the setup mode.
Let me know if you have any trouble running it or see any problems.

And as always, I welcome and appreciate any and all suggestions and comments.

10/17/2020 Note: I have removed the mrotate4 download from this thread. You can get latest version of Mrotate4 in the downloads thread in this forum (automated projects).
« Last Edit: October 17, 2020, 02:46:32 pm by DaOld Man »

pixel.arcade

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #60 on: October 12, 2020, 06:41:25 pm »
Hi DaOld Man.

After a long time without using Mrotate3 support with a parallel port that does not run on Win 64 bits I see that @DaOld Man has released a new version and that makes me very happy.

Taking advantage of the "Mrotate3" structure, I now update with the "serial port" cable. In the first tests everything worked fine, I used the version without "PWM" and I confess I missed you.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/BmcTPhGSCh912M3o8

Now just make some fine adjustments.

I couldn't get the limit switch to work, I'm confused, I appreciate any help in connecting the wires.

« Last Edit: October 12, 2020, 10:12:07 pm by pixel.arcade »

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #61 on: October 13, 2020, 07:53:34 am »
Hi DaOld Man.
......
I couldn't get the limit switch to work, I'm confused, I appreciate any help in connecting the wires.

Hi Pixel.arcade!
About the limit switches.
The serial port inputs are ordinarily low, unlike the printer port inputs which are ordinarily high, so connecting the limit switch from input to ground will not work with the serial port, unless you "pull" them high with external 5 volts first.
The easiest way to do this is to connect the input through the limit to an external 5 vdc positive (such as the PC power supply).
Then you must select "watch for inputs going high" in Mrotate4 inputs/outputs section.
Here is a dirty drawing. Top half shows using external power supply to watch for inputs going high at end of travel.
Lower half is watch for inputs going low. In lower half, the inputs are pulled high when switch is open. When switch closes, the input is pulled low to ground.
Hope this helps.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #62 on: October 13, 2020, 08:00:50 am »
Forgot to say that which ever method you choose to use, just duplicate it for the other input.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #63 on: October 13, 2020, 08:21:08 am »
If you can give me a sketch of how you are wired to your limits and your drive now, i might can give you a better answer.
Also, if you really want PWM, I can re-enable it, but you will have to install RCTimer.ocx. (I can give you that too).
Note that PWM in this method will not speed up your motor from the speed it is currently going, it can only slow it down.
To speed up a motor faster than its full voltage speed, it would take a very complicated (and expensive) drive. (Or increase motor voltage, but then you get into all sorts of possible problems, overheating, etc)
From your video, looks like your motor is going pretty good now, so you probably dont want to slow it down, but if you do, just let me know. :)

pixel.arcade

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #64 on: October 13, 2020, 06:37:10 pm »
Thanks for the reply DaOld Man.

The option to slow the engine is interesting, I would like to test.
A quick turn at the end of the stroke can sometimes go a little over 90 degrees, sometimes in the old design with the printer door.

I understood the issue of the necessary external supply of the 5 volts on the serial port.

I think I'm excited and skipping stages, I will strictly follow the drawing posted in 2012. I will set up the circuit and post the result.

« Last Edit: October 13, 2020, 07:04:50 pm by pixel.arcade »

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #65 on: October 13, 2020, 07:29:26 pm »
Sounds good.
That is an old drawing.
Please be aware with that wiring plan you cannot use dynamic braking, because at end of travel one limit switch will open, disabling that direction to the drive.
Applying dynamic braking will make the monitor jerk in opposite direction until that limit closes, then the monitor will be off alignment.
Let me know what you come up with.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #66 on: October 15, 2020, 12:36:49 pm »
I made a drawing that amateur as I love it. ::)
Everything works correctly, the limit keys are ok.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/X8sHYybMj2sGYdpe6

Some doubts
The next step would be to add a diode on the "foward, reverse" wire.
The question of booting windows the engine performs some movements, how to get around the situation.
« Last Edit: October 15, 2020, 12:44:56 pm by pixel.arcade »

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #67 on: October 15, 2020, 03:02:24 pm »
The question of booting windows the engine performs some movements, how to get around the situation.
You could put a DPDT delay relay on the 12v and ground lines between the driver and motor.

If you get a relay that temporarily energizes as soon as power is applied:
- Use the NC and COM contacts
- When power is applied, the relay energizes, disconnecting the NC and COM terminals.
- Set the delay time long enough that the motions are done before the relay de-energizes, reconnecting the NC and COM terminals.

If you get a relay that does not energize as soon as power is applied:
- Use the NO and COM contacts
- When power is applied, the delay circuit waits to energize the relay.
- Set the delay time long enough that the motions are done before the relay energizes, connecting the NO and COM terminals.

You can get relays that use either 110VAC, 220VAC, or 12VDC to power the timer circuit and coil.
- 12V from a Molex or SATA power is probably the easiest way to go.

Delay relays come in a variety of delay ranges.
- Choose one where your desired delay is in the mid-range of the spec, not the extreme end.
- For example, if you need a 14 second delay, get a 0-30 second relay instead of a 0-15 second or 0-30 minute relay.

The Omron H3Y-2 (or similar) is a popular choice for an application like this.


Scott
« Last Edit: October 15, 2020, 03:04:32 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #68 on: October 15, 2020, 06:11:10 pm »
What PL1 said.
However, if you use the timer relay on the wires to the motor, it will have to be heavy enough to handle the current of the motor.
You can also use a DPDT timer on the forward and reverse wires from the serial port to the drive. The current on these wires should be very low, probably milliamps.
Let me see if I can find a timer that would work for you on the internet. Any idea how long of a delay it needs to be? (How long for PC to boot from power on to windows desktop.)
Appreciate the video, it is very informative. If that drive is doing ok now, without the diodes between the drive and serial port outputs, then you probably wont need the blocking diodes, but it sure wouldnt hurt to install them if you want.
RopiJo has a similar setup on his rotating rig, maybe he can share what timer he used.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #69 on: October 15, 2020, 06:16:22 pm »
Heres one I found on amazon. 12 VDC DPDT 0-60 secs (make sure thats enough time).

https://www.amazon.com/Delay-Timer-Relay-Second-Socket/dp/B07QKDTP34/ref=sr_1_26?dchild=1&keywords=timer+relay&qid=1602799993&sr=8-26

I dont know where you live. I do know some people on here that live not in USA say they have a hard time ordering stuff.


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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #70 on: October 15, 2020, 07:03:28 pm »
RopiJo has a similar setup on his rotating rig, maybe he can share what timer he used.

Hey Old Man.

I used the older version of this one for almost all the timers on my rig. It's multi-function so covers virtually all scenarios. I had a whole load of them in my scrap box that I picked up cheap yrs ago. Not so cheap now though!

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/timer-relays/0160284/
« Last Edit: October 15, 2020, 07:06:36 pm by Ropi Jo »

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #71 on: October 15, 2020, 07:09:15 pm »
RopiJo has a similar setup on his rotating rig, maybe he can share what timer he used.

Hey Old Man.

I used the older version of this one for almost all the timers on my rig. It's multi-function so covers virtually all scenarios. I had a whole load of them in my scrap box that I picked up cheap yrs ago. Not so cheap now though!

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/timer-relays/0160284/

And I used 2 of the ones like your link (but the 240V version) in my degaous circuit.

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #72 on: October 15, 2020, 07:19:45 pm »
However, if you use the timer relay on the wires to the motor, it will have to be heavy enough to handle the current of the motor.
You can also use a DPDT timer on the forward and reverse wires from the serial port to the drive. The current on these wires should be very low, probably milliamps.
Good news -- Omron H3Y-2 contacts are rated for 5A and the L298n driver only outputs 3A peak, 2A continuous.   ;D

If you put the relay on the wires between the driver and motor, it is guaranteed to prevent spurious driver outputs from reaching the motor during boot-up.

Not 100% sure if putting the relay on the forward/reverse wires will ensure that the driver won't send spurious outputs to the motor during boot-up.   :dunno


Scott

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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #73 on: October 15, 2020, 10:07:49 pm »
Thanks for the replies guys.

I found the "H3y-2" model suggested and can easily get it in my region.
I will buy and post the result. Maybe I have doubts in the connection of the wires, but I ask for help  :laugh:

https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-856325165-h3y-2-rele-de-tempo-temporizador-timer-com-base-citex-_JM#position=3&type=item&tracking_id=80a5fedd-6b1f-4a44-bb22-d382039aa6f7


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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #74 on: October 15, 2020, 11:45:48 pm »
Maybe I have doubts in the connection of the wires, but I ask for help  :laugh:
This might help.   :cheers:




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Re: Actuator Project ( Was MRotate4)
« Reply #75 on: October 16, 2020, 06:12:52 am »
Thanks for the replies guys.

I found the "H3y-2" model suggested and can easily get it in my region.
I will buy and post the result. Maybe I have doubts in the connection of the wires, but I ask for help  :laugh:


Sounds good! But before you spend your money, make sure the the timer adjusts long enough for the  computer to boot past the serial port flashing. This timer has a 60 second maximum time delay.
It sure wouldnt hurt if you time the boot up first, just to be sure.
Here are a couple of drawings showing how to hook up that timer. Note that Im denoting a 12 volt dc timer.
First drawing is probably the simplest. It waits until the time delay is finished before applying the positive current to the drive.
Second drawing cuts the power between the drive and the motor as PL1 suggested.
In this drawing, im breaking both lines to the motor. You can just as well break only one line, which would be simpler to wire.
Good luck and keep us informed!
« Last Edit: October 16, 2020, 06:32:01 am by DaOld Man »