Stand up build - "The Mongrel"

[Frank Drebin]

Thats a great idea as some games are ultra low volume and then you blow your ears off when you return to the main menu.  IDK if I can get around to adjusting 3,000 or so games...might have to adjust as I go.

[mgb]

That's the best bet.
You'll get an idea of which ones need it the most, do those first

I wielded my machine down to 550 games and my current build will have just 200 or so.
Much easier to handle

[Frank Drebin]

That's the best bet.
You'll get an idea of which ones need it the most, do those first

I wielded my machine down to 550 games and my current build will have just 200 or so.
Much easier to handle

I agree.  I need to do the same but I'm still in the "collector" mindset, or think to myself "what if so and so comes over and wants to play some obscure game?".

I would love a collection of only 200 or so games.  Would make this machine so much better IMO.

[wp34]

mgb is correct. My current list is at about 200 as well. Much easier to manage.

[Frank Drebin]

Buttons wired up.  Waiting on RGB harnesses.  Player 2 joystick - long story short - my son wrecked it, partly my fault.  I had the cp on its side and my curious 3 year old knocked it over and when it fell the joy broke the plastic housing.  Ah well.  'Nother one on the way.

[mgb]

Very tastefully done 

[Frank Drebin]

Quick question on wiring up the coin door from ultimarc.  Wiring diagram below.  Am I correct in assuming that the coin door wires up just like a microswitch/button?  I wired the Coin signal to the IPAC and the GND to the GND on the IPAC, and I did not hook up the Counter wires and DC +12V.  My PC is out of commission so I can't test.  Did I wire correctly?

[PL1]

Am I correct in assuming that the coin door wires up just like a microswitch/button?  I wired the Coin signal to the IPAC and the GND to the GND on the IPAC, and I did not hook up the Counter wires and DC +12V.

Close, but two things are different from using a regular microswitch.

  1. You need to connect 12v to provide power for the coin recognizer circuits.

  2. The zener diode regulates the 12v coin signal down to 5v so you don't fry the IPac.

As you suspected, the coin signal wire goes to the desired IPac input, ground goes to IPac ground, and the counter is optional.   


Scott

[Frank Drebin]

Am I correct in assuming that the coin door wires up just like a microswitch/button?  I wired the Coin signal to the IPAC and the GND to the GND on the IPAC, and I did not hook up the Counter wires and DC +12V.

Close, but two things are different from using a regular microswitch.

  1. You need to connect 12v to provide power for the coin recognizer circuits.

  2. The zener diode regulates the 12v coin signal down to 5v so you don't fry the IPac.

As you suspected, the coin signal wire goes to the desired IPac input, ground goes to IPac ground, and the counter is optional.   


Scott

OK.  So I'm ok running the ground to the ipac ground not to the power supply ground then?  I'll just take off +12 v from the PSU.  Where/what does the counter go to? 

[PL1]

OK.  So I'm ok running the ground to the ipac ground not to the power supply ground then?  I'll just take off +12 v from the PSU. 

Yes, per the info at the bottom of the Ultimarc page here.

Connections are as follows (see diagram above):
Pin 1 connects to a 12 volt supply. This can be from a JAMMA power supply or a PC disk drive connector (yellow wire).
Pin 2 connects to the I-PAC coin 1 input.
Pin 3 connects to GND on the I-PAC
The Zener diode connects between pins 2 and 3 on the coin mech plug. It is possible to push the wire ends of the diode into the plug connector housing.Note the "line" end of the diode must go to pin 2.
The coin signal is normally a 12 volt signal. If using with devices which expect a 5 volt signal it is VITAL to connect the supplied Zener Diode as shown otherwise the device you are connecting to will be damaged.

Where/what does the counter go to?

To the coin counter, if you have one.



Scott

[Frank Drebin]

Right off his site hey.  Wow thats a little embarrassing.  Thanks for helping me out.

So if I wanted to run a hidden coin button alongside the coin door, am I able to tie both POS wires to the same output on the IPAC?

[PL1]

So if I wanted to run a hidden coin button alongside the coin door, am I able to tie both POS wires to the same output on the IPAC?

Yes, you can wire a microswitch in parallel with the Coin Signal/ground wires.   


Scott

[Frank Drebin]

For anyone who has dealt with RGB LED's:

Is there a "common" wire (Blue,White,Red,Green) that acts like a ground?  I have some buttons connected to the cabinet and have a 24 pin harness that is short two connectors if I have to give individual pins to 4 RGB buttons, but if I can combine a common wire on the 4 LED's that gives me enough connectors (from 16 LED connectors to 13).

[mgb]

I'm not sure what LEDs you have but they typically only use 4 wires to each.
So you would have one wire to the red, one to the green and one to the blue and then a either a common anode
Or common cathode.

For instance the RGBs from Groovy Game Gear have a common anode so one side the common wire of each led goes to +5 volts. The red, green & blue lines then go to the outputs of the lighting controller.

If your wires are Red, Green, blue and white, I would assume the colored lines to be to the different color elements and the white wire to be the common. Very possibly a common anode because switching the cathode (negative) is very common in electronic control circuits

I hope that addresses the question you were asking

[Frank Drebin]

I'm not sure what LEDs you have but they typically only use 4 wires to each.
So you would have one wire to the red, one to the green and one to the blue and then a either a common anode
Or common cathode.

For instance the RGBs from Groovy Game Gear have a common anode so one side the common wire of each led goes to +5 volts. The red, green & blue lines then go to the outputs of the lighting controller.

If your wires are Red, Green, blue and white, I would assume the colored lines to be to the different color elements and the white wire to be the common. Very possibly a common anode because switching the cathode (negative) is very common in electronic control circuits

I hope that addresses the question you were asking

Yes, I think so?

I have the GGG RGB's.  And yes they have 4 wires each, but I have 4 buttons to connect so 16 wires in total.

So if I was to tie up the common (white) to one wire, LED blinky for instance would be able to still have individual on/off controls of each button/led by the Red,green and blue wires?

Or should I just add a 4 pin molex on top of the 24 pin connector and save myself potential headaches.....

[PL1]

You mentioned being 2 pins short.

If one of your buttons will always be red, green, or blue, you can leave the two unneeded wires disconnected.

For example if your Exit button is always going to be red, you can hook up the white wire to the operating voltage and the red wire to the controller (ground), leaving the unneeded green and blue wires disconnected.


Scott