Stand up build - "The Mongrel"

[Frank Drebin]

So, my brother in law has been hounding me to to sell him my first build, which was basically right off OND's "Metropolis" plans.  Turned out *pretty* good but there are of course many things I'd like to do different.  So the other night I told him he could take it for what I had into it, and he agreed.  Better yet the wife agreed that I could take that money and build a new one!

I call this build the mongrel because I'm trying to implement features from quite a few legendary threads on this forum.

My inspirations:

Top half of machine and "removable" control panel : OND's Metropolis.  Just love the lines of this cab and the ability to remove/replace/work on the control panel.

Bottom half of the machine:  This is a combination of a few different pedestal/showcase cabinets, but also notably used in griffindodd's Marvel v Capcom: Revolution build and this pedestal.

The overall look of the machine, control panel layout, and illuminated circles on the exterior are insipired by Knievel's Neon Mame

[Frank Drebin]

So here's the design I'm looking at.  I haven't bought anything for the "guts" yet but I'm thinking of going with a 27" LCD screen vs the 24" that I had in the OND cabinet.  I tried messing around with lighted circles at the top of the cabinet as well as in the front but it made it look too "bubbly".  Anyways, interested in your input, as always!  The circles obviously do not go all the way through the machine but will be wrapped with LED's vs the sub woofer rings that Knievel used.  A lot cheaper and way more size options.

Front end will be hyperspin.  Thats about all I have confirmed right now.
 

[kiel0909]

whats the plan for the circles? neon? monitors?

[Frank Drebin]

whats the plan for the circles? neon? monitors?

I plan on getting LED rope lighting , and building wood surrounds to give the same effect as neon subwoofer rings.  The neon looks great but the available sizes and pricing is a limiting factor.  Just messing with some different ideas right now for the side lighting.

[Frank Drebin]

/

[Frank Drebin]

Or this one has better specs?

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8238149&pagenumber=1&RSort=1&csid=ITD&recordsPerPage=5&body=REVIEWS#CustomerReviewsBlock

Dell Optiplex 780
Core 2 Duo 3.16GHZ
1TB HD
4 GB DDR3
WIN 7

[Frank Drebin]

/

[Frank Drebin]

First purchase towards new project - complete.  27" Samsung monitor P2770, used from kijiji. ($100)  Bezel and stand are scratched, but screen is still in fine shape.

Also, I think I will make this a two piece build after that moving fiasco.  Thoughts on the design?

Working on my shopping list, I want RGB buttons (with leaf springs), RGB joys, and RGB trackball.  7 buttons per player plus admin/mouse/volume buttons.  The bulk will be through Andy at Ultimarc but I don't think he has the leaf style RGB buttons?  Interface will be the IPAC Ultimate IO.

Very close to pulling the trigger on an i5 computer as well.
 *  Intel Core i5-2400 3.10GHz
 *  4 GB DDR3
 *  Windows 7 Professional 64B
 *  750GB HDD

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=9544681&Sku=JOS-102804733



I do "need" a cheapo video card for this with DVI out.

[Frank Drebin]

''

[Frank Drebin]

Ventilation:  Last cabinet I just had a few 2" holes drilled in the back of the cabinet for natural ventilation.   Seemed to work pretty good.  Do you guys suggest putting fans in?  If so, where do they go?  On the top (sucking) or on the bottom (blowing)?  I figure 2-4" computer fans should be sufficient?

[PL1]

Do you guys suggest putting fans in?  If so, where do they go?  On the top (sucking) or on the bottom (blowing)?

Hot air rises -- work with it instead of against it.   

If you use fans, you should pull cooler air in low and push the warmer air out out high.

The intake and exhaust vents should be far enough apart that the intake doesn't draw in the exhaust.

Placing the lower fan too close to the ground can increase the amount of dust that gets sucked into the cabinet.

Bonus points if you can position the intake fan to push the hot air toward the exhaust by blowing on/across the part(s) that need the most cooling.


Scott

[Frank Drebin]

OK....so fans at the top?  Sorry I'm a little dense.

Computer sits basically at control panel height.  figured some vents in the door, and two fans at the top to push out the warm air.  Don't think I'll need the lower door vents.

[Frank Drebin]

Heres the final render.  Gonna stick with this.  Anyone willing to help out with graphics/ideas, I am all ears!

[PL1]

OK....so fans at the top?  Sorry I'm a little dense.

Computer sits basically at control panel height.  figured some vents in the door, and two fans at the top to push out the warm air.  Don't think I'll need the lower door vents.

Yes to one or two fans at the top blowing out.

Be sure to consider the marquee light placement and mounting -- the marquee light might light up the wall behind/above the cab.

Consider using one row of holes across the middle of the door instead of one row high and one row low.

The vent holes on the door should be at or slightly below the bottom of the computer.

Current two row design:
- The high row of holes is the path of least resistance
- Most air would flow in through the top row and be blown out the top of the cab
- The computer is below the main path of air flow = less cooling

Improved one row design:
- The one row of holes in the middle is the path of least resistance
- Air would flow in through the one row and be blown out the top of the cab
- The computer is in the main path of air flow = better cooling

You can further boost the cooling performance by adding a fan that pulls air in through the door holes and blows on the computer. (The "door" fan doesn't have to be mounted on the door)

The idea is to push the cool air at the computer instead of letting it go straight up to the upper fan(s).


Scott

[DGP]

You likely already know but keep in mind that Samsung monitor will require framing for mounting as it does not have any Vesa mounting capability.

Also regarding the pc, go with the fastest cpu you can within your budget. Ideal is in the 4 Ghz range if you want to be able to run most any emulator/rom at full speed (even then there are some that will not be 100%). Don't go too cheap on the video card if you want to use HLSL in MAME plus some emulators can make use of the gpu as well (obviously you don't need anything high end). Since you want to play some pc games on the cab (SFIV) you'll be able to do so if you toss a decent video card in there, one of the best bang for the buck gpu's is the Nvidia 750ti (which can often be found for under $100 and will usually run fine on an oem power supply).

If you use inlet fans grab some fan filters, this will keep the inside much cleaner.

Best of luck.
 

[Frank Drebin]

Thanks guys.  I think one fan @ computer level on the door blowing on the computer, and two at the top to promote circulation should be lots.  Wonder if a guy could have them run off some sort of a thermostat?

Liking this Mortal Kombat X artwork from creative uncut.  Would definitely need help to turn it into sideart/control panel/marquee.

[PL1]

I think one fan @ computer level on the door blowing on the computer, and two at the top to promote circulation should be lots.  Wonder if a guy could have them run off some sort of a thermostat?

Use search terms like "fan controller" or "fan controller thermostat" on Amazon for a variety of options.   


Scott

[Frank Drebin]

Use search terms like "fan controller" or "fan controller thermostat" on Amazon for a variety of options.   


Scott
[/quote]
Wicked. 

[Frank Drebin]

Sawdust!

[Frank Drebin]

//

[Frank Drebin]

 

Cart before deciding on pushbuttons:

Might have to rethink RGB for now.....

[yotsuya]

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamnnnnnnnn............ you kids and your wacky MAME cabs.... 

[Frank Drebin]

Mastercard took a beating the last few days.

PC - Refurbished Win 7 Professional 64B
Core i5 650
4GB DDR3 Ram
250 GB HDD.

Have to upgrade the RAM and purchase a video card but that can wait a bit.

Buttons - P1 + P2 (7 buttons each) - Spectra Eclipse RGB.



Servo Stik ball top for P1, J Stik Ball top for P2.

RGB U Trak trackball

Spintrack spinner

Coin door, mech and lock from Andy

Black admin buttons

Got a buddy working on a hyperspin themed sideart/control panel art.  will hopefully have some build pictures soon.

[Frank Drebin]

;;

[yotsuya]

That first photo reminds me of a ferret standing upright.

[Frank Drebin]

That first photo reminds me of a ferret standing upright.

Maybe I should rename the project to "The Ferret"



Or perhaps "The Prairie Dog"



Any artwork ideas?   

[Frank Drebin]

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[Frank Drebin]

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[Frank Drebin]

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[Frank Drebin]

//

[Frank Drebin]

''

[Frank Drebin]

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[Frank Drebin]

''

[Frank Drebin]

Got the control panel fitted together, getting close to priming stage, just the doors and the front piece left, and of course the rounding of a few pieces and t molding slot cuts.

[EvilNuff]

Nice start.  I'm not sure about the vinyl wrap, why did you give up on artwork?  What about just a nice wood grain veneer on the outside? 

[Frank Drebin]

Nice start.  I'm not sure about the vinyl wrap, why did you give up on artwork?  What about just a nice wood grain veneer on the outside?

That's a good question on the artwork.  Long story short I don't think I'd be happy with any theme I picked - long term. 

As for the vinyl wrap - I think you'll be surprised with this stuff.  I did my first build wrapped in cheap ebay carbon fiber because my paint job sucked, and it actually looked really good when it was done.  Just like I've seen plain laminate builds on here that look great too.  I don't need or want anything too loud, and hopefully the design of the machine and the accent LEDs will be showy enough.

Already ordered the wrap - Gunmetal steel (middle) for the two sides, and black steel for the control panel and middle section.  Basically everything that is not the two sides.

[wp34]

I like your idea for vinyl wrap and am anxious to see how it looks on the cabinet.

[Frank Drebin]

Control panel question:

Was planning on putting a spinner at the top similar to Knievels control panel, and having 2 leaf buttons (as my RGB's have microswitch) beside for rapid fire games such as track and field  (either mapped to mouse left/right or duplicates of P1 button 1/2) .  Are two buttons enough for most rapid fire games?

[Frank Drebin]

Got some work done on the control panel last night.



(I need a bottom bearing bit)

On the positive side, I'm making Hyperspin my bi%$#.

[Frank Drebin]

Ready to bring downstairs and throw some vinyl on.

[Frank Drebin]

Side and front vinyl is installed, got the aimtrack set up last night.  Noticed a lot of games in HLSL were struggling, choppy, etc.  Same with Demul emulator for Naomi/atomiswave.  Decided to upgrade the ol' video card.  Hopefully this is all I need.  (once you go HLSL you don't go back!)

Here are my specs up to date
i5 650 dual core 4 thread processor
8gb ddr3ram
250gb hdd with windows 7
and EVGA GTX 950 2gbddr5 ram GPU



Gotta get started on the CP wiring tonight I think.  Will post some pics once I get closer to completion.

[Frank Drebin]

Some pics with the vinyl on the sides, and a temporary control panel.  Really thinking of going with chrome t molding.

[Frank Drebin]

Should I bother updating anymore?  Seriously no replies?

[05SRT4]

Should I bother updating anymore?  Seriously no replies?

Sorry, let me drop everything and pay attention to this build.

Looks neat.

Keep up the good work 

Chrome T-Molding would look really good on this.

[Frank Drebin]

Should I bother updating anymore?  Seriously no replies?

Sorry, let me drop everything and pay attention to this build.

Looks neat.

Keep up the good work 

Chrome T-Molding would look really good on this.

Thanks for the input. 

[wp34]

That vinyl looks like it turned out very good.  How does it look in person?  Was it hard to apply?

I'm not a big fan of chrome t-molding but it might look really good on your cabinet to go along with that other silver.

[Frank Drebin]

Hey, the vinyl went on really good, very similar to applying side graphics, but easier to get the bubbles out.  As for how it looks, I think it really depends on the colour, or more importantly, the texture.  The sides look reallly good but the black center shows every, I mean EVERY imperfection through.  I would stick to the carbon fibre patterns from now on.  even after wet sanding with 1500 I still see imperfections.

I do have a guy from another forum working on a control panel overlay/marquee/ and a matching kick panel so I think it will turn out pretty good.  Chrome T molding is on order.  Thought the gunmetal would pop a bit more than it does and the black T molding is just "meh".  Maybe I'll pick up some tinted plexi for the bezel tomorrow.

Thanks for the reply/interest BTW.  I know people like to look but its a little discouraging to keep updating when there are literally zero replies.

[seventone]

Looks nice! Some chrome t molding would look good too.

[Frank Drebin]

Looks nice! Some chrome t molding would look good too.

Thanks!  Have some left over material from my bartop for a chrome marquee holder as well.  Just doesn't pop enough with the colors we have now and black t mold.

[Frank Drebin]

Control panel: (I'm not doing it myself )

[vwalbridge]

I LOVE Hyperspin.

...but I wouldn't personally put any of its logos or slogans anywhere on my cab. Does this also mean you are using Hyperspin decals for your marquee and side art?

[Frank Drebin]

I LOVE Hyperspin.

...but I wouldn't personally put any of its logos or slogans anywhere on my cab. Does this also mean you are using Hyperspin decals for your marquee and side art?

Yes.  I know its not a popular idea around here, but love the system, and the colors really pop.  I didn't want to build it around a particular game as Street Fighter/Mortal Kombat and all the 'Cades are overdone, but I wanted some type of theme to go with.  I figure I'll probably spend more time configuring hyperspin than actually playing the games so why not.

I'm just doing a control panel and marquee.  No side art.  Trying to keep it more furniture, less arcade.

Any reason why you wouldn't put HS on your build?

[vwalbridge]

Trying to keep it more furniture, less arcade.

Well then I don't see too much furniture with diamond plating and coin mechs.    (Just giving you a hard time of course)

Any reason why you wouldn't put HS on your build?

The artwork on an arcade cab typically represents the game(s) that can be played on it. Or at least invokes the feeling or theme of games that can be played on it. (ie fighting games, classic games, shmups, or driving games) Therefore, when I see Hyperspin art, it doesn't narrow it down for me or invoke any kind or specific feeling of games this cab can play. In other words, Hyperpin isn't a game you play on this cab. It's just the front end.

This scenario is somewhat similar for me when I see the MAME logo on a cab. It's just a little too generic for me.

I totally get that you don't want to just repeat some overdone Street Fighter artwork but I've seen plenty of builders come up with something never done before.

[Frank Drebin]

Trying to keep it more furniture, less arcade.

Well then I don't see too much furniture with diamond plating and coin mechs.    (Just giving you a hard time of course)

Any reason why you wouldn't put HS on your build?

The artwork on an arcade cab typically represents the game(s) that can be played on it. Or at least invokes the feeling or theme of games that can be played on it. (ie fighting games, classic games, shmups, or driving games) Therefore, when I see Hyperspin art, it doesn't narrow it down for me or invoke any kind or specific feeling of games this cab can play. In other words, Hyperpin isn't a game you play on this cab. It's just the front end.

This scenario is somewhat similar for me when I see the MAME log on a cab. It's just a little too generic for me.

I totally get that you don't want to just repeat some overdone Street Fighter artwork but I've seen plenty of builders come up with something never done before.

My last machine had a MAME marquee.  Go figure.  This is a MAME cabinet that will be used for laser gun games, golden tee, console classics, fighting games, and whatever else.  Like I said, I couldn't make up my mind - and I don't particularly favor one over the other.

[vwalbridge]

This is a MAME cabinet that will be used for laser gun games, golden tee, console classics, fighting games, and whatever else.  Like I said, I couldn't make up my mind - and I don't particularly favor one over the other.

Yea, if you are going to play everything but the kitchen sink on this cab, then narrowing down a theme is hard.

Have you thought about playing Golden Tee on that tight-proximity control panel?

Also, your artwork has 6 button outlines but I counted 7 buttons on your actual build pictures.

[yotsuya]

I dunno, something "mongrel"-ly might be nice...

[Frank Drebin]

This is a MAME cabinet that will be used for laser gun games, golden tee, console classics, fighting games, and whatever else.  Like I said, I couldn't make up my mind - and I don't particularly favor one over the other.

Yea, if you are going to play everything but the kitchen sink on this cab, then narrowing down a theme is hard.

Have you thought about playing Golden Tee on that tight-proximity control panel?

Also, your artwork has 6 button outlines but I counted 7 buttons on your actual build pictures.

Ya last machine had a very similarly sized control panel.  You definitely can't play in the traditional sense - but you can fling the trackball pretty good with both thumbs.  Played a few games.

Yes, that control panel from the pics is going in the garbage.  The 7th button just made things confusing (last build had the infamous  

I totally get what you're saying about the theme of the build.  I just can't commit.

[Frank Drebin]

I dunno, something "mongrel"-ly might be nice...

I thought we agreed on a prairie dog theme.  I'm not committing a lot of money to the hyperspin theme so whenever someone teaches me photoshop (ha ha) maybe I can do a mongrel theme.  Good idea actually.  (google images provides poor inspiration on this lol, I'm thinking more rabid dog than heinz 57)

[PL1]

I'm thinking more rabid dog than heinz 57

For some reason Foamy the Freakadog from Freakazoid! leaps to mind.   




Scott

[DrZhark]

I really like how neat the control panel looks.

As for artwork... it is a hard decision but my RetroBox cab changed tremendously after I installed the artwork. I have no regrets on going bold with colors and what not.. The way I see it, it is a modern Arcade Machine for personal use and to inspire awe so the wow factor should be there. It is going to stand out even if you try to disguise it as 'furniture'

[Frank Drebin]

I really like how neat the control panel looks.

As for artwork... it is a hard decision but my RetroBox cab changed tremendously after I installed the artwork. I have no regrets on going bold with colors and what not.. The way I see it, it is a modern Arcade Machine for personal use and to inspire awe so the wow factor should be there. It is going to stand out even if you try to disguise it as 'furniture'

Na I agree.  I look at mine with the vinyl and it just looks so flat, so plain.  There was a cab that had this bright blue artwork and it looked amazing.

I'll find something for the sides.  Not sure when though.

[Frank Drebin]

A little progress to report.

Got my Control panel/admin panel artwork today.  Artwork courtesy of Sub Zero on Hyperspin forums.  Quite a talented guy.




Installed the admin panel:

[Frank Drebin]

Frank Drebin, on 23 Nov 2015 - 10:54 PM, said:
Some pics of the monitor mounting.  Basically just sits on the wood brace at the bottom and against the battens at the back.  Plexi bezel rests against it on the top.  Not secured in any fashion and I really don't see a need to.  If I'm going to haul it up the stairs I'll just remove the bezel and the monitor.




And some construction paper behind the tinted plexi to black out everything that isn't the screen.

[Frank Drebin]

And chrome T molding with led strip lights on the back side of the coin door kick panel.  I bought a couple RGB deck lights (3/4") that I plan to mount under the control panel and remove the strip lighting for a more subtle (downlight) lighting effect.

[Frank Drebin]

I think I blew my power supply today for the PC.  I'd move the pc around and there appeared to be a loose connection at the inlet module.  I'd hear a sort of sparking (poor connection) and the PC would shut down.  Today I went to wake the PC from sleep and it was frozen and wouldn't power on.  The power supply smelled a little burney so I'm pretty sure (and hopeful) that that is the problem.

Ordered this guy from amazon.

EVGA 500W 80+ (tell me it will be fine please)

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pe_386430_30332290_TE_3p_dp_1

[mgb]

This cab is looking good

[Frank Drebin]

Thanks MGB.  Your retrace cab is amazing BTW.

So....question for you guys.  Ordered the J-Stick ball top from Ultimarc (Sanwa JLW-TM-8 type) and is currently under mounted in a 3/4" MDF control panel.  Routing the depth is not an option.

Even under a 1/2" panel these joysticks seemed stubby/short.   Should a guy look for a bat-top that would lengthen the joystick?  Or should I buy the extensions?  I don't really care which it is bat vs ball.

Also, recieved the leaf-pro joystick from GGG for the dedicated 4way.  How do I install this thing?  Do I have to remove the entire joystick or does the ball screw off?

Thanks

[Frank Drebin]

Quick update on the build:

Ordered 3/4" chrome angle plastic for the marquee retainer.  Just verifying the artwork before getting it printed off.

Finishing up on the hyperspin build.  A guy has to draw a line in the sand on how many systems he wants or else it will consume you.  I have most of the arcade systems that will actually be played on the machine, plus the consoles that I grew up with that will also be played on the machine but will be played via PS3 controller not on the control panel, plus a few systems that I neither grew up with or want to play but more of a show off factor such as game gear, atari lynx, game boy, etc.

Having good luck with retroarch and the internal overlays vs using the rocketlauncher bezels.

[yamatetsu]

So....question for you guys.  Ordered the J-Stick ball top from Ultimarc (Sanwa JLW-TM-8 type) and is currently under mounted in a 3/4" MDF control panel.  Routing the depth is not an option.

Even under a 1/2" panel these joysticks seemed stubby/short.

I had the same problem, no router but I wanted to top mount my UltraStiks. I used a slightly thinner piece of wood for the CP and top mounted the sticks using screws with a flat head. So now the joystick plates and the screw heads stuck out for about 4 millimeters. Since I had leftovers of 2 mm lexan, I took two sheets, cut out / drilled the joystick rectangles and the button holes and put those onto the CP. Now I had a level surface on which to put the CPO. A nice benefit of this method is that I could use screws with nuts, so I didn't have to use t-nuts or inserts.

Pics (don't mind the strange layout, that has changed after a lively discussion) :

CP without lexan :



CP with lexan :



Underside :

[Frank Drebin]

Is that the CP from your Clint build?  Interesting solution for the top mounting but mine are already bottom mounted, T nuts are installed and bondo'd over.  Just want to extend the joystick "sticks".

[mgb]

I like how you handled the admin panel. Very nice

[yamatetsu]

Is that the CP from your Clint build?  Interesting solution for the top mounting but mine are already bottom mounted, T nuts are installed and bondo'd over.  Just want to extend the joystick "sticks".

Yep, that's a very early version for Clint. The idea was to top mount the sticks to eliminate the need for longer shafts.

[Frank Drebin]

So they have adapters to go from ball top to bat top.  I think the bat should give an extra 1/2" or so to the top which should be good.

http://www.gameroutfitters.com/SANWA_LB_30_N_S_Bat_Top_Black_p/gosa-bat-k-lb30ns.htm

[Frank Drebin]

lol.

So I get the power supply today, like I said I don't know too much about this stuff.  I saw in the pics from amazon there was no shortage of connection types on the new power supply, which is nice because the old power supply only had 3 outlets which all went into the motherboard and no extra molex outlets, just Sata.


Anyways I guess HP computers have a specific type of power supply, that uses a 6 pin "auxiliary" port, which of course isn't on most aftermarket PSu's (and of course not on the one I ordered).  Thought I was going to have to buy another power supply but fortunately there is an adapter that you can buy.  It is interesting that the HP power supply doesn't have a 20 or 24 port plug on it.

[Frank Drebin]

Got the decals on the CP.  Won't put the vinyl on  the sides till I get the snap in buttons.  Will likely have to bore out the holes a bit.

[mgb]

While I'm not a huge fan of incorporating the front end name into the artwork, I really like this build.
I like the layout of everything. The artwork looks really good.

[Frank Drebin]

Started wiring up the Control panel, The Ipac ultimate IO is a nice all in one solution but they kinda hose you on connectors if you want RGB buttons not supplied by Ultimarc. 

$12 plus shipping for a 9 RGB harness??

Bought a bunch of these from the bay instead.  Hope they work.

[wp34]

This is coming together real nice.  I like the artwork and admin panel.  I sometimes wish I had my volume control more accessible as I tend to mess with it a lot. 

These pictures reminded me of my basement.  An almost finished cabinet with PC equipment falling out the back

[Frank Drebin]

This is coming together real nice.  I like the artwork and admin panel.  I sometimes wish I had my volume control more accessible as I tend to mess with it a lot. 

These pictures reminded me of my basement.  An almost finished cabinet with PC equipment falling out the back

Lol, I'm so tired of this cabinet.  I just want it to be done.  Thanks for the kind words, I'm happy with how its turning out, and I fiddle with the volume a lot as it seems not all games play at the same level?

[mgb]

Just an FYI on the volume thing.
If you want to, you can even them all out by going into each game within mame and setting the volume
in order to even them all out.
That being said, it's a good idea that I have never actually gotten around to myself.
I just keep tweaking the volume knob

[Frank Drebin]

Thats a great idea as some games are ultra low volume and then you blow your ears off when you return to the main menu.  IDK if I can get around to adjusting 3,000 or so games...might have to adjust as I go.

[mgb]

That's the best bet.
You'll get an idea of which ones need it the most, do those first

I wielded my machine down to 550 games and my current build will have just 200 or so.
Much easier to handle

[Frank Drebin]

That's the best bet.
You'll get an idea of which ones need it the most, do those first

I wielded my machine down to 550 games and my current build will have just 200 or so.
Much easier to handle

I agree.  I need to do the same but I'm still in the "collector" mindset, or think to myself "what if so and so comes over and wants to play some obscure game?".

I would love a collection of only 200 or so games.  Would make this machine so much better IMO.

[wp34]

mgb is correct. My current list is at about 200 as well. Much easier to manage.

[Frank Drebin]

Buttons wired up.  Waiting on RGB harnesses.  Player 2 joystick - long story short - my son wrecked it, partly my fault.  I had the cp on its side and my curious 3 year old knocked it over and when it fell the joy broke the plastic housing.  Ah well.  'Nother one on the way.

[mgb]

Very tastefully done 

[Frank Drebin]

Quick question on wiring up the coin door from ultimarc.  Wiring diagram below.  Am I correct in assuming that the coin door wires up just like a microswitch/button?  I wired the Coin signal to the IPAC and the GND to the GND on the IPAC, and I did not hook up the Counter wires and DC +12V.  My PC is out of commission so I can't test.  Did I wire correctly?

[PL1]

Am I correct in assuming that the coin door wires up just like a microswitch/button?  I wired the Coin signal to the IPAC and the GND to the GND on the IPAC, and I did not hook up the Counter wires and DC +12V.

Close, but two things are different from using a regular microswitch.

  1. You need to connect 12v to provide power for the coin recognizer circuits.

  2. The zener diode regulates the 12v coin signal down to 5v so you don't fry the IPac.

As you suspected, the coin signal wire goes to the desired IPac input, ground goes to IPac ground, and the counter is optional.   


Scott

[Frank Drebin]

Am I correct in assuming that the coin door wires up just like a microswitch/button?  I wired the Coin signal to the IPAC and the GND to the GND on the IPAC, and I did not hook up the Counter wires and DC +12V.

Close, but two things are different from using a regular microswitch.

  1. You need to connect 12v to provide power for the coin recognizer circuits.

  2. The zener diode regulates the 12v coin signal down to 5v so you don't fry the IPac.

As you suspected, the coin signal wire goes to the desired IPac input, ground goes to IPac ground, and the counter is optional.   


Scott

OK.  So I'm ok running the ground to the ipac ground not to the power supply ground then?  I'll just take off +12 v from the PSU.  Where/what does the counter go to? 

[PL1]

OK.  So I'm ok running the ground to the ipac ground not to the power supply ground then?  I'll just take off +12 v from the PSU. 

Yes, per the info at the bottom of the Ultimarc page here.

Connections are as follows (see diagram above):
Pin 1 connects to a 12 volt supply. This can be from a JAMMA power supply or a PC disk drive connector (yellow wire).
Pin 2 connects to the I-PAC coin 1 input.
Pin 3 connects to GND on the I-PAC
The Zener diode connects between pins 2 and 3 on the coin mech plug. It is possible to push the wire ends of the diode into the plug connector housing.Note the "line" end of the diode must go to pin 2.
The coin signal is normally a 12 volt signal. If using with devices which expect a 5 volt signal it is VITAL to connect the supplied Zener Diode as shown otherwise the device you are connecting to will be damaged.

Where/what does the counter go to?

To the coin counter, if you have one.



Scott

[Frank Drebin]

Right off his site hey.  Wow thats a little embarrassing.  Thanks for helping me out.

So if I wanted to run a hidden coin button alongside the coin door, am I able to tie both POS wires to the same output on the IPAC?

[PL1]

So if I wanted to run a hidden coin button alongside the coin door, am I able to tie both POS wires to the same output on the IPAC?

Yes, you can wire a microswitch in parallel with the Coin Signal/ground wires.   


Scott

[Frank Drebin]

For anyone who has dealt with RGB LED's:

Is there a "common" wire (Blue,White,Red,Green) that acts like a ground?  I have some buttons connected to the cabinet and have a 24 pin harness that is short two connectors if I have to give individual pins to 4 RGB buttons, but if I can combine a common wire on the 4 LED's that gives me enough connectors (from 16 LED connectors to 13).

[mgb]

I'm not sure what LEDs you have but they typically only use 4 wires to each.
So you would have one wire to the red, one to the green and one to the blue and then a either a common anode
Or common cathode.

For instance the RGBs from Groovy Game Gear have a common anode so one side the common wire of each led goes to +5 volts. The red, green & blue lines then go to the outputs of the lighting controller.

If your wires are Red, Green, blue and white, I would assume the colored lines to be to the different color elements and the white wire to be the common. Very possibly a common anode because switching the cathode (negative) is very common in electronic control circuits

I hope that addresses the question you were asking

[Frank Drebin]

I'm not sure what LEDs you have but they typically only use 4 wires to each.
So you would have one wire to the red, one to the green and one to the blue and then a either a common anode
Or common cathode.

For instance the RGBs from Groovy Game Gear have a common anode so one side the common wire of each led goes to +5 volts. The red, green & blue lines then go to the outputs of the lighting controller.

If your wires are Red, Green, blue and white, I would assume the colored lines to be to the different color elements and the white wire to be the common. Very possibly a common anode because switching the cathode (negative) is very common in electronic control circuits

I hope that addresses the question you were asking

Yes, I think so?

I have the GGG RGB's.  And yes they have 4 wires each, but I have 4 buttons to connect so 16 wires in total.

So if I was to tie up the common (white) to one wire, LED blinky for instance would be able to still have individual on/off controls of each button/led by the Red,green and blue wires?

Or should I just add a 4 pin molex on top of the 24 pin connector and save myself potential headaches.....

[PL1]

You mentioned being 2 pins short.

If one of your buttons will always be red, green, or blue, you can leave the two unneeded wires disconnected.

For example if your Exit button is always going to be red, you can hook up the white wire to the operating voltage and the red wire to the controller (ground), leaving the unneeded green and blue wires disconnected.


Scott