Nostalgia - Done and delivered!

[Xiaou2]

Don't worry, Dave, he's just trolling you. He does that from time to time.

I think it looks good. ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, if you're going for 50s authenticity, make sure you use lead paint and line that sucker with asbestos. 

 Not at all.  Was just giving my honest opinions and feedback.   I think Ive only trolled Malenko.. and only because he just wouldnt stop being a troll.

 I appreciate that you are able to see whats important.  And realize I wasnt trying to be a troll.  Didnt even realize, but I think it was you whom jumped on me over another post.  But either way, I dont hold grudges like that.   Genuinely interested to give feedback.  Im a creative person, and I like to see creative things form.

 Ok, after looking at the site.. I see what your going for.   The color red you chose in your drawings, is way off from the look of the devices on the site.   Seems they are using a sort of  Metallic Candy-Apply, with a clearcoat gloss finish.   If you can get your hands on that color, then its gona look quite nice.

 But as said, the color of the pacman graphics on the side, were a bit off in tone and saturation compared to the rest of the cabinet colors.
When that happens, it creates a sort of visual clash.  If I have a free moment, Ill show a visual of what I mean.
 

[dkersten]

I originally used the red from the original pac man, but it was too bright so I darkened it until I liked it.  I am not looking to COPY the inspiration pieces exactly, they are inspiration.  When I started, I had in my head what I wanted it to look like, but I couldn't quite put it on paper because I am not an artist.  I needed to look at something that was similar to what I was thinking, and the nostalgia electrics stuff is close enough that I rolled with it.  I am happy with the red I ended on, and once it is in place with a lot of black on the cab to offset it, I will be happy I didn't go too dark.  If I were painting the cab that kind of dark candy red, that would be one thing, but it is going to be semigloss black with the red vinyl art.  I intend to go with the glossy laminate on the artwork (except the cp, I will stick to the polycarb finish for durability and fingerprint management there).  The sides will look good, but it will still be just flat side art in vinyl, nothing crazy like OND's retro futuristic cab http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,88912.1480.html which would look awesome in that darker candy red. 

It's OK that you don't like it, everyone's tastes are different.  I used to hate lighter reds like the one I am using, but the last 3 years my car has been a color very close to that, and it has grown on me. 

[dkersten]

OK, final run at graphics, made some adjustments.  Added some gradient to all and tweaked it just a little.  Redid the layout for Mala once more, not completely satisfied but I think it is kinda cool.  CP is off to print, gonna double check my measurements on marquee and then I will get the marquee and sides to Brad.  He is going to send the CP artwork right away so I can get that done this week, and the rest later in the week since I won't need it until Sunday at the earliest. 



And the side:

[yamatetsu]

This is looking good ! You will soon reach the point where your parents will have to wrestle this thing out of your dead hands 

[dkersten]

lol!  Thanks!

You know, the cool thing about building something for other people is you don't see it every day, so when you go over to their place and see it, you get to rediscover that great feeling from the work you put into it all over again.  My folks have a half dozen of my various furniture projects around their house from over the years, and each time I go to visit, I see one and stop to admire it.  The stuff at my house that I built I seldom give a second glance because I am so used to seeing it..

[rablack97]

 

Keep up the good work...........

[dkersten]

Got some paint on the cab last night, and whipped out the CP layout.  Went to see Guardians of the Galaxy with my daughter last night, so I didn't spend too much time on it, but got done enough to be happy.  Great movie by the way, I recommend it highly.

So I started with the layout.  I printed the layout from illustrator onto just some 11x17 paper since I didn't get to it until after hours at work and didn't have time to send it over to our large format printer.  It is small enough where it only took 2 sheets.  Got it lined up perfectly and ready to mark holes.


I drilled the centers of each hole with a small (like 3/64" I think) bit.  I found this is the perfect way to do it because it makes a great guide for the forstner bit, and you can just drill the tiny pilot holes through the paper template.  Took about an hour to drill all the holes and get the trackball hole cut, and countersink the joystick a little.  Had to make room for the servo too. 


I also sanded the cabinet and bezel down to 220, dusted it off, wiped it with tack cloth, and shot some of the paint.  I was impressed at how quickly the rattle can laid it down on the primed surface.  In fact it went down so fast that I got a couple heavy spots I will have to sand.

A word about the primer and paint:  I primed one heavy coat on Sunday evening and then let dry until Monday afternoon.  I attempted to sand a little but it was too soft and was gumming up my sandpaper.  I did some light touch up with the primer and gave it another day.  Night and Day difference after 48 hours vs 24 hours.  It sanded very well, didn't gum anything up, and made for a nice surface.  The primer was supposed to be completely dry after 24 hours, but even in low humidity high heat, it took nearly twice as long.  The paint from a can is curing about 100 times faster than latex too.  I shot latex nearly 10 weeks ago on my first cab and it is still not 100% cured (at about 95% now).  Although the rattle cans are more expensive than latex paint and primer, and you make one heck of a big toxic cloud, I am sold on using it versus latex.  I really didn't want to have to clean up my HVLP guns after shooting oil based enamel, so the rattle cans are the way to go. 

Anyway, I went semi-gloss black for the front of the cab, and I am pretty happy with the results.  It lays down so well that every tiny detail is coming through.  Unfortunately spots I thought I had filled and smooth are not as good as I thought, but unless you get real close you don't see them.  I never would have gone full gloss black unless I spent a few dozen hours with a good automotive filler primer and a LOT of sanding.  The semi gloss shows enough flaws as it is, lol..


I ordered a coin service door (just a service door, no holes or mechanism) and I thought when I ordered it the dimensions were a little bigger than my hole.  But upon further investigation it looks like the hole is perfect.  I had held off on painting the "kick" area of the cab because of this, but I will go ahead and lay down a good coat tonight.

Art should be here tomorrow.  CP is ready for art and then buttons.  I will probably be wiring tomorrow night! 

I also documented my method for cutting the hole for the trackball and I will post it in the woodworking section.  I had sort of documented it in another thread, but this time I have pics of each step.

[dkersten]

Well, art didn't show up yesterday, damn the usps!    So I spent a couple hours cutting the last few pieces: keyboard tray and the back pieces.  I used some scraps of oak for cleats on the back side for the recessed 1/4" panels.  Then I cut a 4.5" hole at the top for a vent, cut the hole from the CP housing to get my wires into the cab, got all the rough stuff painted up, painted the backs and keyboard tray (just flat black, nothing special), and finally got the keyboard slides mounted.  I went ahead and assembled the keyboard door since the paint on the front of the cab is done, got the tray installed, and then just to see how I like it with color on it, I placed the CP and took a pic.  I am happy with it.
I also cut the hole for the power outlet, which I will hardwire to a power strip this weekend when I get the CP done.  CP art should arrive today, so I think tonight I might be applying that and getting the controls wired, and tomorrow during the day I will likely get software for the controls set up (install ledblinky and get the servostik working).  Then it is just hurry up and wait for the side art to show up next week, get that on, put the t-molding on, and deliver.. after a few pics of the final project of course

Pics didn't come out good with shiny black paint against a night background, lol, but here is where it is at..

[rablack97]

Very nice work man....

Can you provide the links for your front levelers, i'm using the same casters on a build myself.

[rablack97]

Well, art didn't show up yesterday, damn the usps!    So I spent a couple hours cutting the last few pieces: keyboard tray and the back pieces.  I used some scraps of oak for cleats on the back side for the recessed 1/4" panels.  Then I cut a 4.5" hole at the top for a vent, cut the hole from the CP housing to get my wires into the cab, got all the rough stuff painted up, painted the backs and keyboard tray (just flat black, nothing special), and finally got the keyboard slides mounted.  I went ahead and assembled the keyboard door since the paint on the front of the cab is done, got the tray installed, and then just to see how I like it with color on it, I placed the CP and took a pic.  I am happy with it.
I also cut the hole for the power outlet, which I will hardwire to a power strip this weekend when I get the CP done.  CP art should arrive today, so I think tonight I might be applying that and getting the controls wired, and tomorrow during the day I will likely get software for the controls set up (install ledblinky and get the servostik working).  Then it is just hurry up and wait for the side art to show up next week, get that on, put the t-molding on, and deliver.. after a few pics of the final project of course

Pics didn't come out good with shiny black paint against a night background, lol, but here is where it is at..

Um just a suggestion lose that chrome handle man, that totally looks out of place and takes away from the arcade feel, get you some push magnets instead of that handle.

[dkersten]

I think the chrome handle will make more sense once the art is on.. I picked one that felt "50's" to me, and it should blend in well with the art directly above it.  I just got the art a few minutes ago and I think the chrome stripes came out great.  Plus I am using self closing euro hinges, and once the CP is in place, there is no way to really open it up with a push mechanism.  The only alternative would be a hole or recessed pull of some kind, which is one option if the chrome doesn't work for me.  Or I can shoot it flat black and it wouldn't be noticed after that..

Edit: And here is the link to the levelers.  I got them off amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ATUE3M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[rablack97]

Ah ok.........i gotcha...

may something more low profile or with a little character to it.....a few suggestions...thanks for that link

[rablack97]

FYI found those levers here for 4.00 a piece.

http://www.wwhardware.com/heavy-duty-leg-leveler-sygheavy-m10x75

[yotsuya]

I'm with my man Rodney's initial thought - handles never look good on a cabinet. IMHO, stuff like that breaks the illusion. That is, if you are going for authenticity. I get you might want stuff like that to make it easier for your parents to maintain, and that's cool, but just thought I'd add $0.02 to Rodney's $0.02. Now you just need $3.96.

[dkersten]

I hear ya.. on my other cab, the giant CP covers the handle so you can't really see it.. on this one it is more obvious, so I tried to make it fit the style...  Authenticity is sort of a double edged sword here, lol, not many arcade cabs in the 70's and 80's made to look like a 50's diner.. Or had flat screens and all that.. So in that regard I am OK with mixing up the elements.  But at the same time, I always want to make it more obvious that this is an arcade cabinet, so I try to get the major elements the same..

I have been thinking about it and I am going to see how it comes out with the art on the CP, and if it does stand out even a little, I will switch to something different..

As always, I am grateful for the feedback, without this forum and those of you who comment on my work, my stuff wouldn't be nearly what it is..

Oh, and on the levelers, I know I could have found cheaper, but I love my Amazon Prime and the free 2 day shipping.. Usually spend a few more dollars but I know it will ship that day and I will have it in 2.. I only order outside Amazon when I either can't find it there or when I don't need it for over a week.. UPS ground from either coast is usually a week to here, and I have found so many online retailers who will not ship the same day... Often when I go to unknown retailers it is 10 days before I see the product, and I am not patient with shipping, lol. 

[dkersten]

Well, it as an interesting weekend...  I got the art for the CP on Friday so when I got home from work I decided to start in on it.  It was kind of a challenge because of the front of the CP being curved down.  I couldn't lay it flat and tape the artwork to the surface I was using, and I couldn't wrap the art around the CP to tape it in place once it was lined up, so I had to hold it firmly in place with one arm while using the other hand and some help from my son to get one half started. 

Overall the alignment worked out, but it isn't perfect.  From left to right the alignment is off by about an eighth inch.. fortunately the only place where it is noticeable is around the joystick.  But then there is the joystick hole, which I must have changed slightly on the photoshop art and not updated on my illustrator layout because it was quite far off.  Fortunately there is a dust washer, so I was able to chisel out the recess for the stick, drill out the holes on the stick mount plate and align it within about a 16th of an inch.  Close enough for me..


But then once the art was cut and completely on, I noticed a fatal flaw.  Looking back I think the problem stemmed from setting up the original bleeds on the photoshop side of things.  My template for drilling holes somehow was 1/2" off between the illustrator and photoshop files.  Since I aligned the vinyl using the trackball hole, the entire art was shifted 1/2" to the left.  I had more than enough bleed on the art to cover it, but it meant that the admin buttons and the elements in the art were all 1/2" further from the right than from the left.  This was a mistake I simply couldn't just "let pass".  It was too noticeable and while my parents probably would never notice or even care if they did, I would know it was like that and I just couldn't let it sit.

I had three choices - start over on the CP, get new art printed, and delay everything another week, ignore it and move on, or narrow the CP and account for it on the cabinet.  I couldn't ignore it.. I even lost sleep over it Friday night.  Saturday I finished wiring everything with the intent of building a new CP after everything was done and transferring it all to the new one.  Spacing wouldn't change so it would only take an hour or so to move everything from one CP to the other.  I got it all set up, wired, and then fired up the PC and got it all configured.

Andy has been fantastic about getting me new firmware updates for the ipac ultimate to fix a few minor issues, so I loaded the one he sent me on Friday that fixes the animation performance issues, and spent about an hour getting it all set up and configuring a simple but nice animation to run while idle in Mala.  The only issue I have now is Mala is really slow to launch a game sometimes when the animation is running.

Everything was working great on that end, so I set the CP in place on the cab to get a couple pics and called it a day.  I was having a couple dozen people over that night so I had to stop.  One of those friends showed up first, and we ended up in the garage talking about the issue with the art.  He recommended shortening the CP and putting some kind of filler strip in.  Sunday, while I was quite hung over, I had made up my mind and decided to cut the CP down. 

I made a jig to lay the CP on while it went through the table saw so I only had to remove the joystick and trackball to lay it flat.  The table saw cut the art very cleanly so that went well.  I then used some oak scraps to make some 1/4" strips, cut them to length and got the profile right, and then painted them and attached them to either side.  The CP is now 1/2" shorter and the art is centered, and it looks just fine.
So here is the before pic:


And here is after:


It doesn't capture real well on camera, but here is a closeup of the spacer on the right


Anyway, I got the service door in place, had to get a lock for it and modify it to be tight.  I installed the monitor, speakers, power strip, outlet and switch, and back panels.  I should have side and marquee art tomorrow, and once it is installed I can bolt in the side buttons and get the PC installed and do final testing and tweaking, and then deliver it.  Just about to the finish line.

Oh, and I swapped the pull for the keyboard door to a flat black pull.  I was tempted to go with a long chrome handle that would match up better with the chrome stripes in the art, but then I would have had to fill and repaint the door, and I wasn't sure if it would stand out too much or not.  I opted for subtlety. 

[markc74]

Nice fix :-) I don't think anyone other than you would even notice it wasn't  supposed to look like that.

Great cab btw. Loving the curves. 

[dkersten]

Thanks!  I probably could have left it, but it was eating away at me like cancer.. lol.  The fix worked out really well though so I am satisfied. 

[rablack97]

Better on the handle selection, i would still go for a lower profile, it sticks out alot.

Only reason why this is a sore spot for me is that the craftmanship and the lines on this cab are phenomenal.  The drawer handle takes the whole concept of a manufactured look to an oh yeah i made this one in garage myself.

If you had some other noticable DIY qualities on the cab i'd leave it alone, but everything else is done so well, its hard to no comment on those hideous handles.

Other wise awesome recovery on the CP, great work...

More i think about it, i would have the handle underneath the base, so you could pull out the tray from the bottom instead of the front.  If you configure it well that wont happen very often, so its a shame to see a handle there and it probably wont get used much once the build is complete.

[yamatetsu]

Two suggestions for getting rid of the handle :

- use the holes for the handle to thread some kind of string through them (black leather perhaps), inside the cab tie weights to the ends.
  The weights keep the string tight, when you pull the string they help pull the drawer out.

- Replace the handle with a piece of black metal or do the entire front of the drawer in metal, use a magnet to open the drawer and store
  the magnet somewhere when not needed, perhaps attached to the inside of the coin door.

[dkersten]

Yeah this one does stick out further than I would like.  It was the best I could get at Lowes over the weekend, lol.  I thought about cutting it shorter and drilling and tapping it so it only stuck out about 1/2", but I haven't had a chance to get back to address it.  Ideally I want to find something that is just a slight lip to get your fingers under to pull it down.  My clearances are tight, 1/8" all around, and since the CP hinges right on top of it, I can't do anything hidden above or on the sides, and since they are euro hinges, they are spring loaded and that means no hidden latches, which would be ideal in this case.  The handle area is very visible on this cabinet, so anything I do has to look good close up.

Thank you for the compliments on the craftsmanship.  The camera hides a lot of the flaws, lol.  Granted, most people would never spot the flaws, but I know they are there and it eats away at me. 

[yotsuya]

Yeah, other than the keyboard tray/handle, I really like a lot of what I see here. Your parents will love it.

[dkersten]

just ordered a flush mount pull.  I couldn't find black so I will just shoot it flat black so it blends in and get it flushed in with the router.  Love my Prime, it will be here tomorrow

[rablack97]

just ordered a flush mount pull.  I couldn't find black so I will just shoot it flat black so it blends in and get it flushed in with the router.  Love my Prime, it will be here tomorrow

 

I didn't mean to push the issue, and i usually dont say much, cause folks do what they want anyway.  I kinda figured that's what you wanted, something just to be able to pull out the tray.  Just wanted you to think on it more, you will be happier with your new idea.  Once you slap on the rest of your aesthetics, that chrome handle would of had you doing this  and the rest of the forum like  and me  for not listening  .......

 

[markc74]

On an old build instead of a handle I just drilled a button sized hole, inserted a normal black arcade button and removed the plunger.  Worked ace and has a nice finish too.

[dkersten]

It's all good, I wasn't all that happy with it and even if nobody had said anything I would have likely wanted to swap it out.  Frankly my parents would never have cared in a million years, but I care so I will change it.  The simple black handle is "good enough" but still sticks out a little too far for my tastes.  But what I really want to use would require me remaking that panel - not something that is difficult per se, but I want to be done with this tonight.  When the art arrives I will get it applied, install the t-molding, wire the side buttons, install the new handle, plug the computer in and do final testing (gonna test a new firmware for the ipac ultimate real quick) and then deliver the cab to my folk's house and be done with this one.  If I leave it at my house any longer I will be tempted to "improve" on it or fix some other super minor issue that is purely cosmetic and known only to me...

I kind of like the idea of an arcade button, but I am thinking if I did that I would modify the button to still have a plunger but one that goes way in so I can plunge it down and then bend my finger and pull to open.  But then of course they would be calling me asking what the button on the front does, lol.

[PL1]

You could use a spring-loaded magnetic latch like this or this.
 


Scott

[rablack97]

You could use a spring-loaded magnetic latch like this or this.
 


Scott

that's what i said, he said that wouldn't work...

[dkersten]

Again, it would have to be a strong spring on that kind of latch because the euro hinges are pretty strong to keep it closed.  PLUS, it would have to have at least 3/4" of travel for me to get it far enough out to get a grip on the door and pull it down.  The door is recessed under the CP by 3/8" with less than 1/8" clearance.  Most of those latches I have seen push it out about 3/8"-1/2" at most.  And inch would be better, but 3/4" at a minimum..

Plus it would require redoing the panel, which only takes a few seconds to cut, but would take a few days to prime, let dry completely, sand, and then apply 3 coats of paint and let dry.

[dkersten]

I would also have to cut out my strike plate, which would be quite difficult as it is the entire length and glued in place.  Otherwise the door would not be able to push in to unlatch.  Longer throw switch latches would work for the throw but since the door is very short, at 1 inch out it would be way out of alignment and might bend the latch instead of pushing it in (they are made for wider doors, not a 5" door). 

I considered a "pull tab" type pull that mounts on top and behind the panel, but having it protruding out from the top of the door would interfere with the control panel being folded out, so that is out.  I searched for a pull tab style pull that was front mount and could be mounted lower, but couldn't find anything I liked.  If I could tig weld I would use some flat aluminum stock, bend a 90 in it, roll one edge, then weld on some studs at 3" on center to slide it into the existing holes and bolt it on from behind, but alas I don't have a tig welder available, and having a one off made would be out of the budget.  I think overall the flush mount pull I ordered on Amazon yesterday (with $3.99 next day shipping, love my Prime, lol) will work out fine.  I will route out the mortise for it which will cover the holes I drilled so I won't have to remake the panel, I will paint it black so it blends in, and it will be flush and partly tucked away and practically invisible from the front, but will function perfectly. 

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the ideas, and in the future I might consider a different route (I have 3 more cabs to build after this one).  Over the years I have built quite a few different kinds of cabinets, and I tend to favor the euro style self closing hinges.  There are so many different ways you can go with doors like this, but most choices require some pre-planning.  I didn't think about it too much because on my last cab the CP overhung so far that it covers the handle completely.  I figured if I went with something chrome it would blend with the chrome stripes in the art, but in the end the protrusion was too much and I decided against it.  I considered a 20" chrome bar handle that would have looked good straight on and lined up really well with the chrome art, but it would have been spaced too low so it would be slightly out of place and again the protrusion made it look wrong. 

[dkersten]

Well, it looks like the art isn't going to make it today.. 2 day priority mail sent Friday the 8th, expected delivery Monday the 11th, here it is Tuesday the 12th and it just left Mississippi this morning.. Thing is, it said it departed yesterday too, so someone screwed up, no big surprise there..

I got the new drawer pull though.. maybe Amazon should take over for USPS, they seem to be pretty good at getting packages where they are supposed to go on time, and for less money, lol.  I guess I will get the pull installed tonight.. I guess it is time to start planning the next one out too..

[dkersten]

With nothing else to do last night, I went ahead and routed out the keyboard drawer door.  Since I knew I had at least another day, I went ahead and painted another coat on it after routing it out.  Got the handle painted too. 

Also looks like the USPS has again dropped the ball, so I am at a complete stand still waiting on art to arrive.  I am thinking that my next few projects I will just find a local printer.. Brad does a fantastic job but I simply can't wait a week each time I need art.. Took 3 days for the first 2 day priority package, and at 5 days and counting on the second.   

I would have been done with this Sunday if I wasn't waiting on this..  And they leave for 2 weeks on Friday, so even if the art gets here Thursday, I might as well just set it aside until they are back.. Guess I will be hauling it into my house so it doesn't get all messed up in my shop.

So here is a couple boring pics of the "progress".....

[rablack97]

yep pretty boring.........nothing to see here......

[dkersten]

lol, I only posted it for you, since you had such a problem with the handle.. 

[dkersten]

Better?


My art arrived at the post office finally.. I could have walked to the east coast from Montana to get it faster, but at least I will get it tomorrow evening and not next month sometime..

[rablack97]

 

Well i'll be damned he finally listened.......muuuuuchhh better....


   in case you get anymore bright ideas..

[dkersten]

Well, art showed up and I got it all finished up!

layed the side art out:


Got it stuck on, trimmed, and installed the t-molding:


Flipped it over and repeated the process, got the marquee art on, and here it is:


And here it is with the software fired up:


First off, I realize now that I should have planned the art a little better, I didn't even think about how the sides would relate to the control panel and marquee.  If I had thought about it, I would have lined up the chrome strips and done 3 on the sides instead of 2 to match the front.  I am kinda bummed about it because it was a simple oversight.  It just would have flowed so friggin nicely if I had done that.  I designed the pieces completely separately though, thinking they would be so far apart that they wouldn't blend together.  Live and learn though.  No way I am spending another $200 and waiting 2 more weeks for new side art. 

I set up 40 games total, although I might throw in some NES and SNES stuff this weekend, just because everyone loves playing Mario, lol.  I was going to add a couple overlays for games like space invaders, just to get the background, not the bezel, but Mala doesn't want to remember where the artwork folder is for some reason.  I add it and it doesn't save it, and then I go into the mame.ini and add it there and Mala still doesn't launch it right, and I can go to mameui64 and it works fine but still not in mala.. not even sure how I got it working on my first cab to be honest.. not a big deal though, with the widescreen I am short on vertical real estate, so no big loss.

I still have one issue I am trying to troubleshoot.  When I fire up Mala, the LEDblinky animation sequence starts.  It doesn't stop looping though for about 2 minutes, regardless of if I select a game or even launch a game.  It is supposed to stop and light the game controls.  After about 2 minutes it finally stops and works fine after that.  And if I try to launch a game during the first couple minutes, it sits there for about 60 seconds, then finally launches the game but the animation is still running.  Eventually the animation stops, switches the colors to the game buttons, and switches the Servostik to the right mode, but until it decides to finally stop the animation, it just ignores everything.  After this is done once, it works perfectly.  You can switch games and the right lights light up for 6 seconds like I have set, it will go back to the animation after that, and the moment you switch games, it does the set delay and then runs the colors again.  If you launch after this, even with the animation running, it immediately stops like it is supposed to and sets the buttons to the right color and switches the joystick mode.  Not sure what happens after a wake from sleep mode yet, I will dig into that this weekend.

And finally, here is an un-narrated video of the cab.  You have to forgive the quality, I just got this Galaxy S5 and I am not happy with the camera or color quality.. it makes my screen look pink when it is the same red as the rest of the art.  I didn't show the back of the cab because the panels are off and the wiring is a mess still.  Nothing much to see there though, lol.  I have a second video where I went through more games and showed the RGB buttons and how LEDblinky changes them per game, but unless someone is interested in seeing more detail on it, I am not going to take the time to upload it to youtube.  In this one the basic animation I set up is running, it just cycles a few colors on the 6 buttons and trackball in a circle before returning to red.  Kinda hard to see the colors on the video because of this crappy camera.. sorry.



Aside from some basic bug hunting this weekend and a couple wire ties, it is done.  On to the next one....

[yamatetsu]

 

[johnrt]

That's a very nice and clean build!  Great job!

[rablack97]

yesss...handle blends nicely........

Blasphemy