Finally, my very first MAME cabinet build!

[Lormax]

Small bit of background...I've wanted to build a MAME Cabinet for a very long time now.  I'm guessing 5ish years or so.  Situations just never let me get started...space, money, time, etc.  Probably mostly just excuses to not start.  Bought the Project Arcade book some years back, read through most of it once but then put it away.  That desire to be able to play the MAME games on a full cabinet has always been there though...

Flash-forward to last week.  A game store opened up near me (the type for MTG, D&D, Pokemon, etc).  They had a Marvel Vs. Capcom cab in there that was supposedly working, but the PCB board was long gone.  They also had a fully operational 4-player Gauntlet Legends cab in there as well.  They wanted them both gone.  I helped them with some other projects and had expressed interest in picking up the MvC Cab from them to start the Mame project...lo and behold, they gave me the cab for free!  I then went back a few days later and asked how much for the Gauntlet cab as well.  $300 later and now they both sit in my garage.

I'm at a point where I can realistically tackle a project like this.  Gainfully employed, in a house with a garage to work in.  Time on the weekends and evenings.  I'm sure most of you understand just how excited I am to finally start this!

The plan:  Use the MvC Cab as a learning project.  Very little will be done as far as cabinet restoration goes.  This is mainly going to be used to learn how to wire everything up, get the computer running with a real arcade monitor and explore the limits of the monitor itself.  Perhaps a new CP?  Adding a few buttons to the existing?  Spinner for tempest?  Learning the best way to add a keyboard/mouse drawer to an existing cab.  How to add speakers, etc...and finally, learning how to configure a front-end and all the other software needed.
 
Once the MvC Cab is at a place that I'm happy with it, full restoration mode starts on the Gauntlet Cab.  I'll have the experience of wiring up a cabinet then.  Software issues will be dealt with.  The things I plan to learn on the 2nd one are how to do T-molding, reconfiguring a CP for many types of games, deciding if I should go with an LED/LCD type screen or stick with the 27" in there.

The MvC Cab is a 25" screen.  The Gauntlet is 27".

Here's a shot of the MvC Cab after I gutted everything but the monitor.  I was unsure of how to safely handle an arcade monitor, so I left it completely alone.



The parts I removed...



Finally, the Gauntlet cab...

[Lormax]

As I sit here late at night, some immediate questions pop in my head.  Having answers to these will really help my motivation to spill over, as these are the questions that worry me the most.

Should I use the 25" Arcade Monitor in the cab?  If so, what do I need to get it to work my computer?  This is easily my most troubling question.  I have no idea how to wire up an arcade monitor to be used in a modern computer.

I believe it's a JAMMA cabinet...the wiring that was in the cabinet would help identify this, right?  If it is, is it smarter to go with a J-PAC or just re-wire the whole thing with an I-PAC?

Is the existing CP overlay worth anything?  I don't want to go drilling into it if it's something that somebody else would want.

Are the parts I gutted from the cabinet needed/used in a MAME cabinet?  Are they worth anything, or shall I E-Waste them?
 
Best front-end?  I've looked at Maximus Arcade, which I liked.  MALA I wasn't impressed with.  GameEx was pretty damn confusing.  I downloaded Hyperspin but haven't installed or tried it out yet.

For this project as a whole (which includes both cabs), money isn't really an object.  I'd love to hear any all ideas or thoughts.  Even the expensive ones, considering if the results are worth it, I'll do it.  But lets face it, this is my first time doing this.  I'm turning to the experts here on this board for some guidance and help...I don't want to end up on the wall of shame   The first cab will be a budget cab, but I don't mind spending some money on it to get it running.  The 2nd cab...the skies the limit.

Oh, saw someone else ask this in another thread..computer specs.

Core 2 Duo 2.6 Ghz.
4 gb RAM
NVidia 8800 GTX Graphics card with dual DVI outputs.
I'll buy whatever hard drive size I need to hold everything.


Lastly, I'm in South Orange County, CA.  If anyone else is building a cabinet in the area and want to combine some efforts (either your cabinet or mine...at this point, any experience will be great for me), perhaps save some money on tool costs by sharing, etc...please, hit me up.

[Turambar]

Sup Lormax,

The forums are your friend.  You will find the answer to these questions and many more.  The search function works well.  I will try and answer a few questions for you to get you started.

1)  The easiest way to get a computer hooked up to an arcade monitor is to purchase an arcade vga graphics card from Andy at Ultimarc.  He has detailed instructions on how to hook this up, and may forum users have purchased and used these cards.

2)  At this point, you have gutted the cabinet.  If you are going to be using a computer for the "brains" of the cabinet," an I-PAC is the way to go.

3)  The CP looks like a standard capcom fighter overlay.  I think those are still easy to come by/have reproduced, so I wouldn't worry too much about hanging on to it.  You are taking a non working cabinet and changing it over to mame, and most people in this community are okay with that.  What irks some people around here is when you take a perfectly working cab and mame it.

4)  While some of the stuff might be of use, most likely none of it will be needed in your new mame cab.

5)  Best front end is definitely an opinion question.  In the software forum, you will find a poll, so that will show you what most people use.  I am currently setting up my cab for hyperspin, and you will find a very active community on their website for support.

[Green Giant]

Should I use the 25" Arcade Monitor in the cab?  If so, what do I need to get it to work my computer?  This is easily my most troubling question.  I have no idea how to wire up an arcade monitor to be used in a modern computer.

If you can confirm the monitors work use them.  The only reason not to use a working arcade monitor is to save money really.  I know some people sale the one they get for a few hundred and stick with cheaper tvs.  

As for wiring them up, someone else will have to answer.  I am not an expert on that.

I believe it's a JAMMA cabinet...the wiring that was in the cabinet would help identify this, right?  If it is, is it smarter to go with a J-PAC or just re-wire the whole thing with an I-PAC?

Same as above.  One of you jamma kids needs to answer this.

Is the existing CP overlay worth anything?  I don't want to go drilling into it if it's something that somebody else would want.

Don’t worry about the CP overlay.  You can trash that artwork.  Personally I would recommend keeping the pushbuttons and joysticks while trashing the wood.  Make your own control panel from scratch.  It is much more satisfying than trying to get something prebuilt to work like you want.

Are the parts I gutted from the cabinet needed/used in a MAME cabinet?  Are they worth anything, or shall I E-Waste them?

I assume that is the coin door lieing face down.  Definitely reuse that.  Otherwise hang on to the controls if you want to use them now or later.  The rest of it I would say is junk, but you might be able to parse it out to someone looking to restore a jamma.

Best front-end?  I've looked at Maximus Arcade, which I liked.  MALA I wasn't impressed with.  GameEx was pretty damn confusing.  I downloaded Hyperspin but haven't installed or tried it out yet.

All I have ever used is mala, but that was when it was brand new compared to the dying mamewah.  What are you looking for out of a front end?  Mala is very customizable, but I guess they all are.  Whatever you learn to use and change is best these days.

For this project as a whole (which includes both cabs), money isn't really an object.  I'd love to hear any all ideas or thoughts.  Even the expensive ones, considering if the results are worth it, I'll do it.  But lets face it, this is my first time doing this.  I'm turning to the experts here on this board for some guidance and help...I don't want to end up on the wall of shame  The first cab will be a budget cab, but I don't mind spending some money on it to get it running.  The 2nd cab...the skies the limit.

Now this sentence I like.  Opens up a lot.  I would definitely recommend RGB led lit buttons powered by ledwiz’s.  I don’t know what is used for lit buttons these days since they don’t seem to sale electric ice buttons anymore.  But the basics are that you can have the LEDwiz read a controller file of the game you select and light the correct buttons to the original game’s colors.  Very cool and really simplifies knowing what buttons to use.

If money is no cost, I would avoid making the first cab budget and the second cab amazing.  Personally I would make the first cab multi-controls and the second cab a more dedicated fighter cab.  Simply put I would utilize ultrastik 360 controls, a spinner, and maybe a dedicated 4-way on cabinet number one.  This would make cabinet 1 your multi-game cab.  

Now for your second cab, the gauntlet one, this is your 4-player cab.  I would use some dedicated 8-way sticks which work best for fighters.  I would also put a trackball on this cab since the angle of the monitor would work well for trackball games.  

If money is no cost use led buttons on both cabs and light up the controls.  Don’t worry about using one cab for testing.  If you post enough on these boards you can really pin point your control scheme to where you don’t need a test bed cab.

Oh, saw someone else ask this in another thread..computer specs.
Core 2 Duo 2.6 Ghz.
4 gb RAM
NVidia 8800 GTX Graphics card with dual DVI outputs.
I'll buy whatever hard drive size I need to hold everything.

That computer should be more than enough to run everything.

Lastly, I'm in South Orange County, CA.  If anyone else is building a cabinet in the area and want to combine some efforts (either your cabinet or mine...at this point, any experience will be great for me), perhaps save some money on tool costs by sharing, etc...please, hit me up.

I am sorry you have to live there.  If you lived in the greatest state in the union, Texas, I could help.

[Lormax]

Thanks for the quick replies!  Definitely alleviates a number of my concerns.  After this post I'll be ordering up the basics to at least get everything interfaced...the ArcadeVGA card and I-PAC that Turambar mentioned.

Turambar:  Thanks for the answers to my questions and taking the time.  I'll definitely try to use the search function more.  I understand the frustration of seeing the same questions over and over

Green Giant:  Also, thank you for taking the time to answer some questions.  I also want to thank you for the RGB-lit buttons, that sounds awesome!  I'll look into what I need to get those going.  I'll probably use the existing buttons and sticks to get it up and running, then switch over to the LED buttons once the basics are learned.  I also like your idea about using both cabs and making them for different uses.  I was struggling in my head on how I was going to put Visual Pinball and Lightguns on the 4-player cab

Yes the thing laying face-down is the coin door.  There's also another door on the front of the cab that allowed access to the quarter container.  I think I'll be removing that completely and putting some vents for airflow down there.

To answer your question regarding what I'm looking for in an FE...I'm looking for an interface that is just as amazing as the cabinet itself.  From the couple of videos I've seen, Hyperspin looks awesome.  Again that's said without ever trying to use it, yet...

I was looking at the Happ Perfect 360 joysticks.  Did a couple google searches for some reviews and they were received very positively, it seemed.  Has something better come out since them?

Edit:  Ah, research is your friend.  Looks like I'll be waiting until tonight to place that order.  I don't know what monitor is in there...don't know if I need the amplifier cable or not.

[Turambar]

Turambar:  Thanks for the answers to my questions and taking the time.  I'll definitely try to use the search function more.  I understand the frustration of seeing the same questions over and over

No pressure, bro.  The people on here are incredibly helpful.  I only mentioned the search function because there is a huge wealth of knowledge on here. 

As Green Giant said, definitely save your coin doors.  With a drill, a wire wheel, and some paint, your old door can look brand new. 

[Lormax]

So I went and checked on which monitors I have.  The 25" in the 2-player cab I believe is a Wells-Gardner K7000 and the 27" is a Hantarex Polo.  The model # on the sticker for the 25" says WGK7197.  Did some searches, and I'm guessing that means it's from the 7000 series?  Am I correct in my assumptions here?

I'm starting to lean towards putting an LCD screen into the 4-player cabinet, and keeping the 25" in the other to keep it old-school.  Other than pure aesthetics, is there anything that using an LCD screen specifically hinders me?  I know light guns won't work, but I can't see myself putting light guns on a 4-player cab.

[Turambar]

I believe the AimTraks from Ultimarc claim to work with LCDs.  You hit the nail on the head with LCDs.  It is purely an aesthetics issue for purists who want to reproduce the original games as closely as possible.  You will find that some of the best known cabinet builders on this forum use LCD's (Knieval and Martijn immediately come to mind). 

As far as your arcade monitors go, ask questions in the monitor forum.  There are guys there who service arcade monitors and forget more about them in a day than you can learn in 10 years.   

[Green Giant]

So I went and checked on which monitors I have.  The 25" in the 2-player cab I believe is a Wells-Gardner K7000 and the 27" is a Hantarex Polo.  The model # on the sticker for the 25" says WGK7197.  Did some searches, and I'm guessing that means it's from the 7000 series?  Am I correct in my assumptions here?

I'm starting to lean towards putting an LCD screen into the 4-player cabinet, and keeping the 25" in the other to keep it old-school.  Other than pure aesthetics, is there anything that using an LCD screen specifically hinders me?  I know light guns won't work, but I can't see myself putting light guns on a 4-player cab.

Assuming the LCD and the original screen cover the width of the cab, you get more real estate with an arcade monitor simply because it is 4:3.

A plus is that you could trim a foot off the back of that 4-player cab. 

If you do go with an LCD, you can probably sale the arcade monitor for a few hundred or donate it to your local poor builder in Houston(I hope you are here).

[Dervacumen]

The plan:  Use the MvC Cab as a learning project.
 

I think this is reasonable.  I have four dedicated cabinets I'm working on, two of which I really want to do justice, and two that are testers.  On each of the testers I'm using several different techniques to see what I like and what I can do before I actually move on to restoring my keepers.  The wiring, etc you might not need to worry about so much.  It either works or not.  You might benefit from putting different types of controls in there to see what you prefer.  And good practice for applying laminate, artwork, or painting.  Also learning how to fix bashed up cabinet corners, removing old paint.  All those things are worth while so you don't have to screw it up on the restore.  This is one of the things I like about this hobby most.  I get to learn a crapload of new skills.  I'm better at some than others, and knowing what you're doing going in to your restore is valued knowledge.

[Le Chuck]

+1 to Dervacumen.

This hobby has so many second and third order effects, you get good at cab refurb and you feel like you can take on anything.  You might be deluding yourself (lord knows I've straight up aborted some DIY projects) but for the most part what you get outta that practice cab will be applicable tons of other places.  Time and money well spent for sure. 
.

[Green Giant]

I am still not a fan of thinking of it as a test/practice cab.

In this hobby, there are no deadlines....unless you are foolish and tell your kids it is coming soon.

The only reason I would think of one cab as a test cab would be because there will be many trial's and error's learned on the cab.  In the end I think it should still be completed to perfection.


The second cab will just be much easier and come together faster.  I think you should approach the first cab as your only cab aiming for perfection.  By the time you are done, the second cab will probably turn out better in an eighth of the time.

[Lormax]

No kids, this thing is all for me   I really have no deadlines to get it 100% complete.  Sure, I'd like to usable sooner rather than later, but 100% done?  I have no time limit at all.

I'm leaning more and more towards going LCD in the cabs.  My main concern is that these 15 Khz monitors won't be able to handle the more 'modern' games (the ones using CHD files...Tekken 4, House of the Dead, Time Crisis, etc).  After looking at and reading through reviews for AimTrak, it looks like I have a very decent alternative for light gun games.  I understand the concern about losing 4:3, but is there anything preventing the games from being played in a 4:3 resolution?  1600x1200 or something of the like comes to mind.

I-PAC 2 is ordered!  At the very least I'll have that CP that came with the first cab re-wired and running on the I-PAC shortly after it arrives.

[Green Giant]

No kids, this thing is all for me   I really have no deadlines to get it 100% complete.  Sure, I'd like to usable sooner rather than later, but 100% done?  I have no time limit at all.

I'm leaning more and more towards going LCD in the cabs.  My main concern is that these 15 Khz monitors won't be able to handle the more 'modern' games (the ones using CHD files...Tekken 4, House of the Dead, Time Crisis, etc).  After looking at and reading through reviews for AimTrak, it looks like I have a very decent alternative for light gun games.  I understand the concern about losing 4:3, but is there anything preventing the games from being played in a 4:3 resolution?  1600x1200 or something of the like comes to mind.

I-PAC 2 is ordered!  At the very least I'll have that CP that came with the first cab re-wired and running on the I-PAC shortly after it arrives.

There is nothing wrong with using LCD or just having some black bars on some games to get 4:3.  In fact with smoked glass you won't know the difference.  Just make sure you get the biggest monitor/tv you can fit in there.  I always hate seeing wasted real estate on the cabinets that use a screen too small for them.  I literally designed my cabinet dimensions around my tv.

If you do go LCD, you should trim some ass off the back of those cabs.  At least that is what I would do.



And one other thing, DO NOT finish the controls and wire them to the I-PAC when it arrives.  Push the control panel till the end or you might start playing it and procrastination will run rampant.  Nothing kills a cab completion like playability.

[Dervacumen]

I don't mean that you should half@ss the first, but I do think there are several ways to skin a cat.  Painting with a brush vs. roller vs. sprayer, the type of lacquer, if any...those are the things a first cab is good for.  You'll find something that works well for you.  For example, a lot of people like using bondo to fill CP holes.  You might like dowels.  Someone else may have great machinery so a new panel is in order.  Doesn't mean you need to make it look like crap in the end.
For example, I've refinished coin doors.  Tried sanding and repainting.  Tried using a paint stripper.  Tried a wire brush and various types of sand paper.  If I had a media blaster I'd try that too.  Then I tried two coats of hammered finish paint, now I'm trying two coast of hammered finish, then a coat or two of black then maybe another coat of hammered.  I want to see what I like so when I tear apart one of my classics I know what I'll end up with.  The test piece still looks hella good in it's own right, just not my first choice.  See?

But like Green Giant says, hook up the CP last, otherwise you'll likely never finish.  Seriously.

[TheShaner]

Here here on not hooking up the control panel till the end. I got a hold of an old joust cabinet about five years ago.  Restored it to about 75% completed then got the control panel done. I popped a monitor in it (not even mounted or bezeled) and started playing to check it out. It was fun as hell, but the cabinet never saw another bit of work. I finally just sold it and started working on a new build.  I will definitely not wire this till the end, great advice.

[Le Chuck]

You people have no self control  

When I hooked up a CP too early I only took 8 months off from working on that cab  

[Dervacumen]

Here here on not hooking up the control panel till the end. I got a hold of an old joust cabinet about five years ago.  Restored it to about 75% completed then got the control panel done. I popped a monitor in it (not even mounted or bezeled) and started playing to check it out. It was fun as hell, but the cabinet never saw another bit of work. I finally just sold it and started working on a new build.  I will definitely not wire this till the end, great advice.

Man I would love a dedicated Joust, but only if my cheap self could scrounge one up.  Fond memories.

[Lormax]

Good idea on not completely getting the CP ready.  I'll hide the PS2/USB cable from myself

So, tools.  Did some reading in the Woodworking forum.  I had a general idea of what I needed, and the posts there confirmed it.  I'm a mechanic by trade, so most of my tools are not woodworking related at all.  On my way home today I swung by Home Depot to take a look at what they had.  My trip was mainly to look at prices to compare.  Sears is having some major tool sale this weekend so I'll wait until then to compare, then make my purchases.  The tool links below are what I looked at today.  Anyone think these are overkill?  Or perhaps not good enough and look for better?  I'd rather spend a bit more now and be prepared for the inevitable future cabs (A pinball cab is in my future for sure).

Tools already on hand:  Jigsaw and drill.  Both corded.

Router:  http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100485419/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=router&storeId=10051

Circular Saw: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100618252/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=ridgid%20circular%20saw&storeId=10051

Drill Press: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100490179/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=drill%20press&storeId=10051

Sander: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100599175/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=ryobi%20sander&storeId=10051
OR
Sander: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100053683/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=ridgid%20sander&storeId=10051

Saw Horses: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100029549/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=saw%20horse&storeId=10051

Then lots of different bits and bobs...picked up a wire wheel to refinish the coin doors.  Looked at countersink bits and the like. 

I didn't see a table saw there I really liked.  When I think of table saw, I think back to my childhood and this monstrosity of a table that my grandfather had with a saw blade in it.  The table saws they had at Home Depot were small...I couldn't imagine trying to cut 4x8 sheets of MDF on it.  I have no idea if I need a router table, or what it can help me do.  Same with a miter saw, band saw or biscuit thingy
 
Tool questions
1.  Unsure of what router bit(s) to get.  I'll need one for the T-molding, and others to install joysticks and such into the control panel nicely.  Also one to recess the LCD monitor into it's mount.
Edit:  Found the FAQ!  Derp, answered my T-molding bit question...#5341 from MLCS.  Unfortunately, it's back-ordered.  Is there another source somewhere possibly?
 
2.  Clamps.  Any suggestions?  I saw the 99 cent ones, does that do the job?  I would think that c-clamps would dig into the MDF. 
 

[Green Giant]

So, tools.  Did some reading in the Woodworking forum.  I had a general idea of what I needed, and the posts there confirmed it.  I'm a mechanic by trade, so most of my tools are not woodworking related at all.  On my way home today I swung by Home Depot to take a look at what they had.  My trip was mainly to look at prices to compare.  Sears is having some major tool sale this weekend so I'll wait until then to compare, then make my purchases.  The tool links below are what I looked at today.  Anyone think these are overkill?  Or perhaps not good enough and look for better?  I'd rather spend a bit more now and be prepared for the inevitable future cabs (A pinball cab is in my future for sure).

The tool question really comes down to just pure comfort.  An entire cabinet could easily be made with just a jigsaw, a drill, a router, and a circular saw.  Well not easily but I did manage to make my first cab using just those few tools.  I had no clamps, saw horses, sanders, etc.  Just had what was in my dad’s garage and a limited college-kid budget.


From that experience and the follow-up building my photo booth, I realized the things that I really wish I had the first time around.  Number 1 would be clamps.  Not those C-clamps but the big 36” ratcheting bar clamps.  A power sander was also very useful for the photobooth, but that was made with plywood and staining.  However, I look at my cab today and realize I need to sand the sides and add a few more coats.

The other item I really hated not having built first time around was a saw horse, or pair actually.  On my photo booth I made some saw horses out of some random 2x4’s and 2x8’s lieing around.  Could not emphasize how much easier some actual saw horses are.  The one you linked looks fine, but I can’t help but feel there are cheaper options.  Two to three pieces of wood mixed with some nails is all you need for a very sturdy saw horse. 

Brings up another question actually, do you have a Harbor Freight around?  If you do I would recommend buying a router, MANY clamps, some saw horse, and a sander from them.  They might not be the name brand you find at home depot, but they will do plenty fine for what you need them for.  I would still get the name brand circular saw from Home Depot since those are just more handy for household stuff.

Tool questions
1.  Unsure of what router bit(s) to get.  I'll need one for the T-molding, and others to install joysticks and such into the control panel nicely.  Also one to recess the LCD monitor into it's mount.
Edit:  Found the FAQ!  Derp, answered my T-molding bit question...#5341 from MLCS.  Unfortunately, it's back-ordered.  Is there another source somewhere possibly?
 
2.  Clamps.  Any suggestions?  I saw the 99 cent ones, does that do the job?  I would think that c-clamps would dig into the MDF. 

You also want a multitude of router bits.  They don’t have to be diamond plated super expensive stuff.  I bought some on ebay ,from China most likely, that cut soft wood like butter.  Assuming this is MDF, you could probably get by with router bits made out of oak, if that existed.  You definitely need a slot cutter for the t-molding.  Most likely you will want a flush trim bit; this makes copying one panel to the other child’s play.  The third one you will want is a straight bit; these allow countersinking wood for joysticks/trackballs/monitors among other things.


I know there are wood shop aficionados who will list 5 grand in items you need, but what I listed will EASILY make you an arcade.  I suppose I should probably also mention grabbing a mitre saw.  I have very little experience with mitre saws, but I got one for Christmas and the potentials for simplifying some of the angle cuts I made would have been really nice.

[Lormax]

Awesome suggestion on HF and those clamps!  I swung by there on my way home from work tonight...needed some moving dollies for work anyway.  Picked up 4 of those 36" clamps, 2 12" and 5 of the hand clamps.  Looked at their power tools, took some pics of the product and prices.  Still gonna wait to see what the Sears tool sale this weekend has to offer before making those 'bigger' purchases.

Formatted and installed Windows 7 64-bit on the other computer last night.  Ordered a 1 TB Sata 3.0gb/s hard drive, should be here tomorrow.  300gb just wasn't gonna cut it for everything I want to be able to load up on this thing.  Going through the driver installation and other software BS tonight.

Weekend plans:
1. Building 4 saw horses.  I want to be able to put the cab on it's side during restoration, and other saw horses for working on.
2. Checking out the Sears tool sale, making tool purchases based on what I see there.
3. Ripping the existing t-molding out of the cab and measuring it to see how much I'll need to order.
4. Remove both monitors out of the cabs.  These are for sale.  Discharging was done tonight.
5. Label the wiring thats on the existing CP, then removing it.

[Lormax]

Settled on a theme and name.  Atomic Arcade.

So my g/f has been working on the new CP layout and artwork.  Thanks to TheShaner for sharing his CP Overlay!  It would've been really tough without it as a base to start with.  I have no clue how to use Photoshop or Illustrator or any of that stuff.  She uses it for work all the time, and apparently had a blast with it.  She's now open to taking on jobs for others if needed   I think a bit more tweaking of this one needs to be done, but this is pretty damn close to done, I think.  I'd love some feedback on it.  I'm still deciding on the ovals...with that 7th button, they are kinda large.  Remove them completely?  Any opinions?  The trackball is supposed to be the nucleus here.
 


The new hard drive is installed.

Tools purchased so far this weekend
Sawhorses
Ridgid Table Saw we found on Craigslist.  I got it for a steal, couldn't pass it up.  It's big, came with a couple accessory rollers so that it can handle 8 foot sheets of plywood/MDF easily. 
Sander
Wet/Dry Vac for cleaning up.  It also hooks up directly to the sander to hopefully keep the amount of mess down while sanding.

Not too much done on the cab itself, mostly garage clean-up and re-arranging to handle all the new tools.  Monitor board shelf is unbolted.  Monitor will come out tomorrow.  T-molding will be removed.  The final door still on the front of the cab will come off.  I've got to cut out the wooden box from the inside that was used as a quarter storage to get to it.

[Lormax]

Progress!

Monitor is out of the cab.  I expected that thing to be a lot heavier than it was...had some help getting it out, though part of the way through he just grabbed the whole thing and held it while I prepped an area to set it down on.  Wasn't too bad at all.  T-molding is removed and measured for re-ordering.  Will figure out how much I need for the CP and that order will be placed.  Need my slot cutter bit as well.

Cabinet is going to be modified.  I really don't like how the front sticks out from the sides.  Pic below of what I mean.  I think I'll be cutting straight along that edge, remove all the pieces from the inside then remake that panel slightly recessed.  That front piece also has two huge holes in it (coin door and quarter collection door), though I only plan on putting the coin door back on.  I think this is a much better plan all around for it.



Speaking of the coin door, got this done with a wire wheel.  Still need to do the inside edges, but that'll take all of 10 minutes.  What is the best way to repaint this?  Rattle-can primer and rattle-can paint? 



Layout is done!  We've settled on a final design.  Posted below...it's not a big difference from the one above, but the difference is in the details

[Green Giant]

Love the artwork.  I am always a fan of green cabs.  The color is never used enough and always looks great on cabs.


As for trimming the front of your cab, I am assuming you are talking about that random lip that comes out 4 inches or so from the side of the cab.  If that is what you are talking about then I agree to trim it off.  The side of the cab that comes out a foot or so you will want for control panel support and just overall visual appeal.

The coin door looks great.  Much better than my ebay one did after I took a wire brush to it.  Just get a can of rustoleum spray paint for metal.  I prefer the hammered finish but that is your call.  Don't need to prime just put a few coats of that on their and it will be good as new.

As for the control panel design, those circles around player 1/2 do seem rather large.  Have you thought about leveling off the two rows which would bring up the 7th button an inch or so?  Also, will the color be purple?  I think that might be throwing off the picture somewhat.  I would go black, green, or silver for that border color instead of purple.

[Lormax]

Yep, that's purple in there.  The idea was to pick complimentary colors so that there isn't a single color overload.  The rest of the cab would also be trimmed in purple (t-molding, etc).  Imagine the button 'rings' being translucent and lit up purple as well, the buttons black.  I've also got an idea for the sides of the cab to also be lit up in purple, involving EL wire and LED's as well.

Now with that being said, if the green looks really out of place, it's easily changed.  Here's an earlier version of the layout, but in purple.



The purple here just doesn't seem to have any depth.  I didn't have her play with the purple at all though, so perhaps something can be done with it in Photoshop.  Think that looks better?  I don't have any purple ovals/purple background.  I'll have her throw one together tonight.

Could also go full green.  This one is before the center was retouched to be completely covered by the trackball, so ignore that.  This is just to get an idea of what the green on green looks like.




For the ovals, that 7th button is where its at because of the joystick mounting plate, and where it felt 'natural'.  Moving it up too far causes interference issues between the button getting installed and the joystick.  Perhaps the mounting plate can be grinded down?  Also, I judged that spot by putting my hand down on the other cab I have and seeing where my fingers end up naturally.  I did some measurements and thats how low my thumb sat.  I was really surprised, because in my initial designs we had the thumb button much higher.  Try it out on your own cab...put your pointer finger on a button, the middle and index finger are slighty higher and the thumb sits pretty low.  Please do respond with your own findings...I only used my own hand so far

Another option is remove the ovals altogether.


For the trimming, yes, I'm talking about removing that section that sticks out a few inches.  Removing that whole panel and its supports, then redoing it, but recessed slightly...maybe 1.5 to 2 inches.  The 'main' sides of the cab will be left alone...just sanded, repainted and new t-molding.  Some custom lighting will the setup in the sides as well.

Quick Question

Anyone know if the GGG Novagem CDR fits into an existing coin door slot?  The red coin slot thing that says 'Quarters' on it is pretty beat up, so I wouldn't mind replacing it with something nice like that.  My concern is that it won't fit into the plastic mount.

[Green Giant]

When you put it that way the purple will look cool.

I still think something about the size of those ovals seems to large.  I would still suggest dragging up that thumb button a bit.  For your test fit were you pretending to be smashing a button and not just testing where your fingers lay?  While the 4th button is fun to have for neo geo, I don't recall it being a priority button that you press too often.  Usually it is a grenade or special attack or block.  I suggest taking it 1/4" to the left and 1/2" up.

Worst comes to worst you will have to move the buttons a bit to the right of the joystick.  That should not affect much aside from making the oval wider instead of taller.

[kahlid74]

I agree with GG, the purple/Green looks rocking.

[Lormax]

When you put it that way the purple will look cool.

I still think something about the size of those ovals seems to large.  I would still suggest dragging up that thumb button a bit.  For your test fit were you pretending to be smashing a button and not just testing where your fingers lay?  While the 4th button is fun to have for neo geo, I don't recall it being a priority button that you press too often.  Usually it is a grenade or special attack or block.  I suggest taking it 1/4" to the left and 1/2" up.

Worst comes to worst you will have to move the buttons a bit to the right of the joystick.  That should not affect much aside from making the oval wider instead of taller.

So you you like the purple trim/green background?

I do agree that the ovals are a bit much.  We're going to work on those tonight...maybe only encircle the 6 main buttons in an area.  I'll post
up what we work on tonight for some feedback.

For the thumb, I only did where my fingers set down on the control panel naturally.  I'll take your suggestion in mind and shift it, then print it out and cut a small one from the wood I'll remove from the cabinet.  Not a big deal to do some quick hole drilling and see how it feels.

I agree with GG, the purple/Green looks rocking.

Which version?  Purple trim/green background, or the other way?

[Green Giant]

When you put it that way the purple will look cool.

I still think something about the size of those ovals seems to large.  I would still suggest dragging up that thumb button a bit.  For your test fit were you pretending to be smashing a button and not just testing where your fingers lay?  While the 4th button is fun to have for neo geo, I don't recall it being a priority button that you press too often.  Usually it is a grenade or special attack or block.  I suggest taking it 1/4" to the left and 1/2" up.

Worst comes to worst you will have to move the buttons a bit to the right of the joystick.  That should not affect much aside from making the oval wider instead of taller.

So you you like the purple trim/green background?

I do agree that the ovals are a bit much.  We're going to work on those tonight...maybe only encircle the 6 main buttons in an area.  I'll post
up what we work on tonight for some feedback.

For the thumb, I only did where my fingers set down on the control panel naturally.  I'll take your suggestion in mind and shift it, then print it out and cut a small one from the wood I'll remove from the cabinet.  Not a big deal to do some quick hole drilling and see how it feels.

I agree with GG, the purple/Green looks rocking.

Which version?  Purple trim/green background, or the other way?

Green background with purple trim.  Although you might still want to do green t-molding.  I have it on my cab and love the stuff.  If you have purple lit buttons and el-wire, it should make for a nice balance with the green.


Also, for the buttons, what about wrapping just the 7 buttons.  Then put in an 8-way arrow pattern around the joystick.  I don't think it would look bad if the bubble followed the angle with the 7th button.



I have seen many people choose an angled pattern because when they trace their hand out it makes an angle pattern.  The thing everyone forgets is when you are playing your fingers are bent, thus decreasing that angle severely.

[Lormax]

The button layout is taken straight from slagcoin.  It's the one they mention that is used in Japan.  Obviously the 7th button has been added onto it. 

Your comments do intrigue me though.  It makes me really want to cut out a test layout and install some buttons to see how they feel, before doing the full CP top.  Will probably do both...traditional straight row layout and the offset, see which one I like more.

Green T-molding, nice idea.  I'll grab a sample of it as well.

[Green Giant]

The button layout is taken straight from slagcoin.  It's the one they mention that is used in Japan.  Obviously the 7th button has been added onto it. 

Your comments do intrigue me though.  It makes me really want to cut out a test layout and install some buttons to see how they feel, before doing the full CP top.  Will probably do both...traditional straight row layout and the offset, see which one I like more.

Green T-molding, nice idea.  I'll grab a sample of it as well.

Cardboard is your friend.

Definitely make a cardboard cutout.  Works really well if you have your parts as well since they are simple to plug into a control panel.  It is by far the best way to tell if your control panel will feel right.  Let me know if you want a picture of how the green t-molding looks.

[Lormax]

Haha, even better!  I have buttons and a joy from the original CP that I can use as placeholders.

I would love a picture of your cab with the green t-molding.

[Green Giant]

Haha, even better!  I have buttons and a joy from the original CP that I can use as placeholders.

I would love a picture of your cab with the green t-molding.

That is all you need for testing out a fit.  I went through many pieces of cardboard when I made my control panel.

As for the pics, I will take some tonight.  Was going to last night but ended up staying up too late watching Contagion with the wife.  A pretty good movie.  I could link my build page if the forums didn't make it disappear .  I guess that is what I get for letting it expire after 6+ years.

[Lormax]

So yeah, those ovals were big.  So trying out this idea...



Picture in your mind, translucent button rings with black buttons.  When the player buttons are lit, they'll be circled in purple LED light.  The top left and top right buttons are the player buttons, which will be lit up in white.  My coin door I'll either use the GGG Novagem CDR for credits, or wire up the ones I have to do it.

The circles around each joystick 'should' line right up with the edge of the joystick bezels.  The spinner and trackball should also be encircled just at their edges as well.  It's a possible idea to route out those circles and put in EL wire.  My only concern is that you can't make a 100% complete circle with it, there's always a break where the ends meet.  Is this true?  I haven't actually used the stuff yet, but it looks that way in the pics I saw on a site that sells the stuff.

[Le Chuck]

Try EL sheets, from the manufacturer:

Our Cut & Shape Sheets are designed to be cut into smaller pieces and any shape --- even along curved lines. They will light up instantly when connected to an inverter.

As you can see, there are two kinds of terminals (tabs) along the edges of the sheet. One kind is connected to the back of the sheet and the other is connected to the front of the sheet. You can cut the sheet into any shape as long as you leave two tabs of different colors intact for the electrical connections.

THE ENTIRE SHEET IS AN OPEN TERMINAL, SO PLEASE BE CAREFUL TO AVOID ELECTRICAL SHOCKS. BE SURE THE POWER FROM THE INVERTER IS OFF BEFORE HANDLING.

You'll have to do some creative integration with your art to hide all the wiring.  I recommend routing in the wire tracks and then laying the sheet just a bit larger than that you want illuminated and covering with vinyl so the cut away part showes through for a nice seamless effect. 

[Lormax]

Wow, that sounds perfect.  What site was that from?  I googled EL sheets and tried the first link, electroluminescence-inc.com/ELsheets.htm   I couldn't find that quote anywhere.

[Nephasth]

Speaking of the coin door, got this done with a wire wheel.  Still need to do the inside edges, but that'll take all of 10 minutes.  What is the best way to repaint this?  Rattle-can primer and rattle-can paint?  

The coin door looks great.  Much better than my ebay one did after I took a wire brush to it.  Just get a can of rustoleum spray paint for metal.  I prefer the hammered finish but that is your call.  Don't need to prime just put a few coats of that on their and it will be good as new.

Echoing Green Giant on the hammered finish Rustoleum. I did 3 coats on my coin doors, I would recommend doing 5 coats though. These will give you a good idea of how the hammered finish looks...

Picture in your mind, translucent button rings with black buttons.  When the player buttons are lit, they'll be circled in purple LED light.  The top left and top right buttons are the player buttons, which will be lit up in white.

...I like where this is going.

[Le Chuck]

Wow, that sounds perfect.  What site was that from?  I googled EL sheets and tried the first link, electroluminescence-inc.com/ELsheets.htm   I couldn't find that quote anywhere.

Behold, EL LINKO!

[Lormax]

Neph:  Thanks for taking the time to link those pics!  That looks great!  No primer needed?  Any gloss/satin clearcoat put on after the 5 coats of hammered?

Le Chuck:  Ah, there it is!  That does look like it'll be exactly what I need, thanks!  Never knew that stuff existed.  Will be looking into getting some samples over to me for color testing. 

Edit:  After looking into it more, this'll definitely do what I need to do.  It'll just be interesting getting the right shade of purple.  Perhaps I'll try some transparent/translucent vinyl and light it from underneath with the sheet (or LED's)

[Nephasth]

No primer, no clear coat in those pics. If you can, give it a few days without doing anything with the parts to let the paint fully cure. I got a little too excited and ended up with a few minor chips in mine while I was reassembling the doors.