Newbie MAME cab started...

[redbeard30]

Well i decided to start a name cab after completing my mini pincab and still keeping my fingers and marriage! I managed to snag a golden tee/tourananent toss "bags" cab for a good price. Came complete with glass,bezel,coin doors, some buttons. Its only missing the trackball, monitor and game PCB. I'm going to try to reuse the cp. My plan is to Peel off the art, use dowel rod to plug exsisting holes and redrill new ones. Few questions, though. I would like to use a 27" TV w/ component, I have 24.5" in width, will a decased TV fit? Also is it nessesary to discharge the TV as long as I'm not messing around the HV line/board? My other option is a 25" 16:9 LCD, which would be easier, lighter, but only give about 21" 4:3 space. Any ideas before I go full steam ahead?

[redbeard30]

And here's a pic of my min pincab...

[Le Chuck]

Came complete with glass,bezel,coin doors, some buttons. Its only missing the trackball, monitor and game PCB.

Came complete huh? 

The screen width on most 4:3 tvs is in the 21" neighborhood.  The bracket is usually another 1.5 to 2 inches on each side putting you right in the 24 to 25 neighborhood.  Depends on brand and YMMV but it should fit with minor tinkering.  I know you intend to reuse the CP but if you're not doing a refurb on the game (sounds like you aren't since you're changing button locations and side art) rather than dowel and glue the control panel holes that you don't like I would dismantel the CP and replace the top with new MDF.  That way you're starting from scratch and don't have to worry about making it work.  I think that it may seem like more work but in the long run will save you time and you'll have a sturdier better looking result.  That part is a cheap operation too, probably no more that $11 in MDF and you're about done. 

Others will have more sage advice than I but anytime you decase a CRT TV and are going to do any sort of lifting, tinkering, positioning you should discharge.  Just because you don't intend on messing with the boards doesn't mean you won't accidentally nudge, brush, drop a screw driver on them.   

Keep us updated on theme, progress, and how it all starts to fit together.  Nice looking pin btw.

[VanillaGorilla]

My plan is to use dowel rod to plug exsisting holes and redrill new ones.

One word - Bondo.

[redbeard30]

Thought about the bondo,  isn't it a bit hard to sand? I thouht some gorilla glue, dowel plugs, wood putty would  :banghead:work fine. Its going to have art/Plexiglases ontop, so whatever is not perfect wont be seen anyhow. Reason for using exsisting cp, I don't have a router, and the trackball mount is already there. But if my idea doesn't work, I will use the exsisting cp as a template. Still not sure on the TV, going back and forth LCD,cry... is 21" decent size? Seems like being so close, 27" might be to much....also might try "modifying" the case on a 24" TV. Basically removing the speake :banghead:r sides. LCD would be more future proof, easier, lighter....its hard to decide!

[mrcram]

Dude, check out how I did my golf cab
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117502.0

I have decased a few TV's with no problem.  You dont need to discharge or anything just make sure the board is connected to the tube when you put in the cab.  No need to disconnect anything.  Just go easy when putting the tv in.  I would say a 27inch is perfect size but to each his own.  I wouldn't go LCD.  Pick up an old TV off craigslist for a few bucks.  Try to get svideo if possible.  

Bondo? fill?  I would just use the holes for other buttons/joystick like mine. 

[redbeard30]

So I started to get alittle work done. Plugged the holes with dowel and 20 minute epoxy. Worked like a champ. It would have been nice to reuse the holes, but the cab was a golden tee, then at some point converted to a Tournament toss. So holes weren't worrking where they were. Gutted all the wiring harnesses, fuse blocks, etc. Printed some generic make side art. Pics will be posted soon! Also laid out the cp. Looks like I can fit 2 player, 7 buttons, start 1&2, pause, exit, trackball, two mouse buttons and a dedicated 4 way. With room for palm rest! Coin door will be reworked for coin 1&2.

My parts list(to be ordered):
and 3.0ghz quad
2-4 GB ram
500gb hard drive
Old Ati x1800xl 256 ram gpu

3 zippyy joys
led pushbuttons
Ipac 2
happ USB trackball
16:10 28" LCD.

Alot of my options are based on budget, I know there's better stuff, being my first cab I will upgrade as necessary and as budget allows. May also use xbox360 controllers for console emulators.

[05SRT4]

sweet deal cant wait to see the progress.

[redbeard30]

heres some progress pics, nothing too exciting....dowels in place,some art I printed...

[Dervacumen]

When I muck around with a CRT, I always discharge even though it's usually not necessary.  I look at it like this.  A screwdriver and a thick wire are a lot cheaper than a trip to the ER or worse.  I have a piece of monster cable speaker wire that's about 18" long.  I soldered alligator clips on both ends.  I clip one end to the screwdriver shaft and one end to any part of the metal frame that holds the monitor.  I put my left hand in my pocket and with my right hand slide the screwdriver under the anode cap on the picture tube.   I usually hear a pop on older models, but not always.  Never heard anything on newer ones.  Then I wait about a minute or two and do it again.  Then I get to work.  Just gives me a little more peace of mind.
I use alligator clips because they will easily detach if I have to yank my arm away for some reason.  I live in CA.  Earthquakes happen when you least expect them.

[redbeard30]

I scored a 27" Toshiba w/ s-video and component jacks for free! So I'm gonna try using it. Its 1" wider than my opening, so I can either decase it, modify the opening in the cab, or trim a 1/2" off each side of the case with my dremel saw. Have to see which is easier. Pics will be posted once I get moving on it.

[Turambar]

Just decase it.  I lived in fear of decasing and discharging the monitor for my build, but it was all rather anticlimactic.  This will be way easier than modifying the cab.

[jammin0]

I was kind of scared taking a monitor out of an old cab and hummed and hawed about it for a while.  When I finally did it, it wasn't a huge deal.  I think it would almost be more unsafe trying to use a dremel to trim the case, not to mention that sounds kind of painstaking. 

[redbeard30]

Just picked up the tv. Hopefully I can decase it and see what I'm getting into. Doesn't appear to be any type of frame inside. Looks like everything is secured via the case. We shall see....its a Toshiba 27a33. Has almost a flat screen. Anyway, looks like all my parts should be here by Saturday, so I should be able to start moving on this!

[Dervacumen]

Typically the CRT itself will have a metal frame around it, with mounting holes in each of the corners.  In your case it sounds like the metal frame surrounding the monitor is mounted directly to the plastic molded case of the TV.  This is very common.  A good way to mount a CRT for your project is to cut a hole in a 3/4" thick piece of plywood or whatever material you want.  Cut the hole to a size that will be a tad larger than the viewable area of the monitor.  Then mount the monitor from behind the piece of wood using bolts in each corner, through the metal piece surrounding the CRT tube and into the wood with the hole you cut.  I guess you could mount it from the front but I never have.  Then you have a monitor with a big piece of wood surrounding it.  It's just woodworking from there to fit it in place by building your supporting structure to put it in to your cabinet.  If this is unclear, type "mount arcade monitor" in Google Image search and you'll see a few ideas.

[redbeard30]

Installed the tv. Control panel is pretty much finished, just waiting on a few new buttons, led control board, and art. Trackball is lit, as are coin door.