Router Noob Needs Help

[SlainbytheBrain]

I recently purchased a Firestorm FS1000RP router used on Ebay. I plan to use this to cut a t-molding slot on my cabinet. However, I have never used a router before and am unsure where to begin. I could not find a manual anywhere on the internet for this tool.

I believe there is already a bit in the collet, but I do not know how to get it out. I was hoping someone could help guide me along in this process as I am having a bit of trouble. I am sure it is rather simple but in this regard, so am I.

Thanks in advance,
Matt

[SlainbytheBrain]

Also, I already have the slot cutter bit:

[Woodshop Flunky]

I'm not familiar with this model, but it looks like the plate with the spring is a locking mechanism.  If you push this plate, I think it will lock the spindle, so you can use a wrench to loosen the collet.  Then you can replace the bit.

[SlainbytheBrain]

After some trial and error and attempts at logic, I was able to switch out the bits. I pushed in the black spring mechanism for loosening and tightening of the larger bolt. It seems to be running properly. Here is a picture of everything in place. That look right?

[Donkbaca]

make sure the bit is in tight, so it doesn't get unstable and mess up your work, or worse, fly of and damage some(thing/one).  But don't make it TOO tight, or it will be a ---smurfette--- to get out.

[BobA]

When you cut the slot on the outside of a piece you should always move your router in a counter clockwise direction to allow the bit to cut properly.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Also, consider making 2 or more passes.  on the first time around, you don't have to push the bearing all the way to the edge of the wood and cut the full depth.  Just go as far as you are comfortable with before the router rotation slows down.  then, on the second time around, cut to the full depth. 

[eds1275]

on the first time around, you don't have to push the bearing all the way to the edge of the wood and cut the full depth.

How do you control that? I've heard of others doing that, but never had the need to do it - always have just gone at a steady pace, no binding or burning.

[TopJimmyCooks]

I do it all the time when its a bit treating the edge face of the wood, like a flush pattern cutter or moulding slot bit.  If it's bit cutting the corner, like a round over bit, you can just raise the bit for the first cut and then make a final pass at the final depth. 

Not necessary for mdf, but particle board and plywood have some pretty nasty, dense glue.  Also hardwoods.  It's just a feel thing.  if it drops easily all the way to the bearing depth, go with it.  If it's smoking or not maintaining speed, give your bit a break by letting it go shallower.

its also useful if you are in a position where you have to make a clockwise climb cut rather than a proper counterclockwise pass.

[syph007]

After some trial and error and attempts at logic, I was able to switch out the bits. I pushed in the black spring mechanism for loosening and tightening of the larger bolt. It seems to be running properly. Here is a picture of everything in place. That look right?

Yep that's right.  You didn't make the bad mistake some make, and mount the cutter backwards.  That burns through wood, instead of cutting.  As other have said, you want to work counter clockwise around the wood, and make sure its securely clamped down.  Practice on some scrap wood and keep adjusting until you get the slot cutting exactly in the center of the wood.

Edit: Here is the, how not to do it post.  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=96749.0