Laminated upright cabinet. [99.9% done]

[syph007]

Hey guys.  This sure isn't a rush build kind of hobby.  I've been collecting parts for years now and finally now have a garage to work in.  So.. finally I'm starting!

I'm going for a pretty standard upright here, nothing too fancy.  Standard 2 sticks 6 buttons trackball/spinner.  The only thing different about mine is instead of the dedicated 4 way up top, Im going for 2 4way topfires.  Vindicators and other tank games are on my must play list.

So anyway, I gathered together my parts, this is what I've got to work with.

2x u360 (with stiffer spring and circular plate)
2x happ topfire
1 pacman 4way (not likely used in this build)

trackball that is ripped from a golden tee with new bearing kit installed
turbotwist spinner with extra weight

lots of Happ buttons

Happ over under door and mechs
50 ft 3/4 inch dark blue tmolding
200 BYOAC 2006 tokens!!!



So... I started getting building materials this week.  First I found and bought the laminate.  Here is the bringing it home pic. (btw I seem to take pictures of everything just in case during the build something ends up being helpful to someone else)

Laminate is from Home Depot, got 3 4x8 sheets.





Today I was determined to get the plywood.  I had to rent the Home Depot van to get it home, but it's only 20 bucks, so that was not too bad.   I brought home 4 5/8ths sheets of just constuction grade since I'll be laminating.







So.. this is where I'm at just before dinner is ready.  Got the plywood home safe and sound.  After I eat I'm heading out to start marking and cutting the sides.  I also picked up the contact cement for the laminate when I was out returning the van.  

I honestly haven't been this excited about building something in ages... this is gunna be fun!

Cheers!

[GaryMcT]

I look forward to watching how your laminate application goes!  I'm going to have to try to do that sometime.

[drventure]

Cool. Good collection of stuff.

The laminate's not too hard, just smear the glue around evenly, lay the laminate down, press it out as flat as possible (preferably clamp it with c clamps and cross boards).

Then trim it once the glue has set with a router.

be careful drilling from the backside once the lams on though.

I even put a depth stop on my drill, it slipped and the drill punched right though 

No one to blame but me though...

[Ond]

I look forward to watching how your laminate application goes!  I'm going to have to try to do that sometime.

Just a small tip when using contact adhesive, when you have smeared evenly to both sides give it time to dry off until its just tacky to touch with fingers (not wet) this will ensure maximum adhesion when you press surfaces together.

[GaryMcT]

Do you normally laminate plywood, MDF, or either?  I have no idea what the strength of MDF is compared to plywood.

[syph007]

I'm pretty sure you could laminate either.  Laminate counter tops use particle board.   I'm using plywood as I'd rather work with it vs MDF and it's lighter.  I will have to use MDF for the CP however as it routes better.

[syph007]

Well not too far yet, but at least I got a start.  I don't own a good circular saw so I figured I could just router cut.  Worked awesome, the edges end up being nice and smooth and perfectly perpendicular.  Only down side is the extra sawdust, but it's the finished product that counts right?

So I've got the one side cut out following what was shown in the plans of Saint's book.  I see why alot of others toe in the front, it projects out further than it needs to.  I think I might do the same.  Once I'm happy with the profile I was plannting on just using this for a pattern with a flush trim bit to get a second perfect copy.  I love my router!  I took the advice of forum members here and when with a decent quality one and 1/2 inch professional bits... love them!

[saleem]

yes,router is lovely bit of kit but,man,it creates a lot of dust,specialy when working with mdf.

i would love to have excuses to to get it out.i just gotta buy loads of new better quality bits as the ones i got are them cheapo bit sets off ebay.

[GaryMcT]

I don't have a circular saw either, and I'm getting by with my router.  A clamped straight-edge and a router do wonders!!!

I need to figure out what to do about my glasses fogging up every time I wear a dust mask though.

[Bender]

I don't have a circular saw either, and I'm getting by with my router.  A clamped straight-edge and a router do wonders!!!

I need to figure out what to do about my glasses fogging up every time I wear a dust mask though.

I have the same problem get a decent respirator and it shouldn't fog up your glasses and it's better for you

[GaryMcT]

I don't have a circular saw either, and I'm getting by with my router.  A clamped straight-edge and a router do wonders!!!

I need to figure out what to do about my glasses fogging up every time I wear a dust mask though.

I have the same problem get a decent respirator and it shouldn't fog up your glasses and it's better for you

What kind do you use?  Looks like there are some full-face ones that might be better than having to wear goggles and a respirator.

[syph007]

I wanted to try the flush trim bit to make a copy of my first side, so i rough cut the piece with a jigsaw then clamped them together with every clamp I own.  Makes lots of dust but it turns out so nice, perfect second copy.   Now I have to decide in what order to laminate the pieces and assemble.  I dont see why I shouldnt just wait to the end to laminate the very outside parts.  I will do the inside parts that will be visible first though, but really only a few inches needs to get done.

I think this might be all for now, but I will be putting in a few hours a night till I get results.

Cheers!

[ivwshane]

OMG! How did you get laminate from home depot? Did you have to special order it? What was the cost?

[syph007]

OMG! How did you get laminate from home depot? Did you have to special order it? What was the cost?

Most of them carry it.  It's in the kitchen section back of the store.  I paid about $50 a sheet CND.

[syph007]

Sadly only had an hour to work on my new time consumer tonight.

I got a piece of plexi for my cp, and got one piece of laminate cut to size ready for gluing.

What I learned.

1. you can't cut laminate with tin snips.. cracks and spiders like mad
2. I can't cut laminate with a utility knife.. mad props to those of you that can
3. cut laminate edges are sharp!  minor blood loss, and lesson learned.
4. dremeling around the entire edge works.. but takes freaking forever!

Now... my first thought was why dont i just laminate the outside surfaces, but then parts of the inside are visible since the body connecting panels are recessed slightly... but really its goign to be hard to laminte like a 3 inch strip all the way around the inner edge... so now it seems like i may as well just laminate both sides fully.  What do most do?

This is so fun btw.  I overheard my better half on the phone to her family talking about my project... phrases like "it's going to be so cool", and "he even has real tokens and a coin door"... ah warms my heart!

Cheers

[GaryMcT]

Did you use the method of clamping a straight edge as a guide and routing to cut your first side?

Are you planning on putting any art on the outside of the laminate?

[saleem]

This is so fun btw.  I overheard my better half on the phone to her family talking about my project... phrases like "it's going to be so cool", and "he even has real tokens and a coin door"... ah warms my heart!

Cheers

you better not let her down then,wish you luck with your p[roject.will be following your thread to see how you make progress just like a lot of others.

why are you starting on the cp?get your cab standing then work on the cp.

[syph007]

This is so fun btw.  I overheard my better half on the phone to her family talking about my project... phrases like "it's going to be so cool", and "he even has real tokens and a coin door"... ah warms my heart!

Cheers

you better not let her down then,wish you luck with your p[roject.will be following your thread to see how you make progress just like a lot of others.

why are you starting on the cp?get your cab standing then work on the cp.

No not starting on the cp quite yet, just gathering supplies.  I'll be doing a bunch of mockups first as well to dial in the layout, then I need to track someone down in the art forum to pay to do the art.  I tried but I'm not good enough with photoshop to do what I want.

[sealslayer]

If you get a sharp enough blade you can "score" the laminate. Once you've done that bend it and it will snap perfectly. Watch your fingers though, it hurts like hell when bits of laminate find their way underneath your finger nails 

[GaryMcT]

Can you paint on laminate?

[syph007]

ah... things always take longer than I think.  But it's good not to rush I guess.  I really wanted to have one side laminated tonight, but I ran out of time.   I did get the t-molding slot cut, and I did this outside this time, way less dust to clean up that way.   If any of you routed MDF in your house, I assume you regret it?

There were a couple of knot holes I had to fill with wood putty, and I'll have to let these dry before I can sand down and laminate.  Hopefully tomorrow.  I think it will start to feel like I'm making progress when I start to see the shell come together.   Also I still do think it's worth laminating as this way when my shell cab is together, it's done, no painting steps at all.   I suck at painting.

Cheers!

[GaryMcT]

I wouldn't consider routing MDF in the house!!  That would be a huge huge mess.

[Ond]

You will spend much, much longer cleaning up all the dust off of every conceivable surface than you did running the router around the wood.  Ply is not as bad as MDF when it comes to dust but it's still pretty bad.  Work outside and always use a respirator or mask.  I use the better quality paper masks mostly, but occasionally i dig out this beast.



works well but it's a pain in the ass to get on and off/keep charged up.

[Epyx]

Now... my first thought was why dont i just laminate the outside surfaces, but then parts of the inside are visible since the body connecting panels are recessed slightly... but really its goign to be hard to laminte like a 3 inch strip all the way around the inner edge... so now it seems like i may as well just laminate both sides fully.  What do most do?

What you really want is a router and flush trim bit like this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-100660651/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

You glue the laminate on with the overlap...then run the router along the entire edge with the bearing running along your plywood...the laminate will trim literally like you are cutting through butter and you will get a perfect, smooth finish that is completely flush with your side.

[syph007]

Yep, I know about the flush trim, I've got one ready to go.  I'll try to explain better what  I was getting at.  If you look at the attachment, you can see where the inside edges of the side panels would be exposed.  So my first thought was oh, I just need to cover up those with laminate so you can't tell from the outside that the whole inside piece isnt laminated.  But now that seems like a huge pain.  So what I was wondering was, do most people just laminate both sides fully as it seems simpler?

[javeryh]

I think most people just seal up the plywood/MDF and paint those interior edges black.  I wouldn't spend all that money on laminate just for that.

[syph007]

I think most people just seal up the plywood/MDF and paint those interior edges black.  I wouldn't spend all that money on laminate just for that.

That does indeed make the most economical sense.  But that means on that side my tmolding will be 1/16inch overhanging... any easy way to trim that one side?  I already routed my slot dead center, so that why im was leaning towards dual side lamination.

[javeryh]

I think most people just seal up the plywood/MDF and paint those interior edges black.  I wouldn't spend all that money on laminate just for that.

That does indeed make the most economical sense.  But that means on that side my tmolding will be 1/16inch overhanging... any easy way to trim that one side?  I already routed my slot dead center, so that why im was leaning towards dual side lamination.

I've seen people trim t-molding like that with a razor with really nice results but I would never go that route (I'm 100% sure my cut would not be straight in spots!).  Hmmm.... is it really going to be 1/16"?  I'd take a scrap of plywood, route a slot dead center, laminate one side and paint the other (remember 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint does have some thickness) and see how bad the overhang is.  I'm guessing you could live with it and that no one will notice...   

[syph007]

Finally got time to do one laminate side.  I did decide to laminate both sides which turns out to be a good thing.  This is an inside piece and you can JUST see some of the coarse grain show throw just barely though.  When I do the outside piece I'll give it a good sanding first.  Never used that contact cement stuff before but it was a piece of cake.  Did the flush trim around the edges and then a light hand file.  The surface is beautiful.  I know i made the right move now, now way I could even get something this nice by painting, I just suck at painting.

Very fun hobby!  I think all the reading about doing this for years has engerized me.. I just wish I didnt have to go to work and could keep building!

[GaryMcT]

Very nice!   I've been thinking the same way about painting.  . . I don't think I'd ever do a good job at it, but I figure I can figure out how to laminate.

I've been contemplating building a Defender-style cab from scratch. . . I wonder if you can paint the pattern with the stencil on top of the laminate and have it work well?

[syph007]

Very nice!   I've been thinking the same way about painting.  . . I don't think I'd ever do a good job at it, but I figure I can figure out how to laminate.

I've been contemplating building a Defender-style cab from scratch. . . I wonder if you can paint the pattern with the stencil on top of the laminate and have it work well?

Ya I'm not sure about painting on the laminate, that might be tough.  I'll just be appling adhevise backed graphics.

[syph007]

Man, I'll say this again... this for sure isnt a hobby for the impatient.  I spent 3 hrs today and this is all I got done.  Thats the bottom board pictured.  Had to recut it 4 times to get it exactly 26" width and perfectly squared.  I figured this was an important piece that makes sure the rest of the cab is square.  I manged to get the front edge laminated and trimmed since it will show, and now its quarter to ten... *sigh*  At least it's a long weekend coming up, I just want to get the main body parts assembled and I'll be happy...

Cheers!

[syph007]

Well I've had time to make some more progress.  My goal for today is to get it standing.  I've laminated both interior sides now and 2 other back body pieces.

I bought black angle iron and cut and drilled it to use for custom support strips, works great and that stuff was 8 bucks for an 8 foot piece in the window and door area of home depot.

The bottom base I built separate than attached.   I was super anal about gluing and screwing it together as I want everything square and rigid.  Notice that there is an 8 inch hollow under the back edge for use with my cabinet mover.  Thats right, no casters here, went with removable 10inch inflatable wheels.  This means I cant enter my cabinet in the local soapbox derby, but thats fine, I'll just game with it.  

In all seriousness, I know its personal choice, but the casters on the cab body have always been a pet peeve of mine.  It will never be moved, and when it is, that's what the dolly is for so it seems odd to me to permanently mount wheels.. but anyway, if others find it a big help, then I guess it works for them.

[saleem]

i see your using brackets to hold things together with screws.

i dont like as when you look inside it looks like "oh,i see you used brackets with screws" type of thing.wood or mdf battons look nicer when seen in my opinion.

i used neither screws or battons on my bartop project,i used woodglue and dowelling as screws and there is nothing visible inside that suggests it being held together by anything bar what i used.

screws are not as solid to use on their own but,angled brackets look a bit ugly.even brackets will work loose as they still rely on the screws and it might lead to wobble over time.

suppose main thing is you have started construction of the actual cab and your getting it assembled and this is where it will start to look like an arcade cab.
 

[syph007]

@saleem:  To each his own I guess.  I don't like the look of the wood blocks on the inside, I wanted a clean look and liked the bracket strips.

Managed to get it standing and almost the back panel on.   Lots of hours into this project already, I can only imagine how many more it will take... *sigh*  I don't know how this long weekend got away from me.. but I did get a fair bit done.

[drventure]

I dunno. I kinda like those long black bracket strips. Pretty nice looking if you ask me.

But, if we're talking serious furniture, I wanna see DOVETAILS on those edges! All around! In Walnut and Beech. Yeah, yeah....

 

[syph007]

You know.. I was a lurker here for like 3 years reading everything I could.  You pros out there really make it look easy.  Now Ive built plenty of small things before, but nothing so large.  I'm finding it takes SO much longer than I thought... oh well I'm still having fun!

I spent another whole evening (which really is what 2-3 hrs after work/dinner/quality time etc.) tonight just attaching the back panel to the sides and bottom.  100 screws in each of the long sides.. its rock solid.  Now I see how much easier gluing woudl have been, but the problem was I had already laminated the inside... well you live and learn I guess.  Should it worry me that as Im building this, Im already mentally planning how I'd make it different for my second time?

I did spend alot of time on this part, but the back piece was also a bit bowed, so I had quite an elaborate setup of clamps and boards to hold it straight as I attached it.  I'm very very pleased with the result though, so it was worth it.  I'm starting to wonder what the average build time is for a new guy making a cab.  Im at 2 weeks now.  Honestly I thought Id have the main body done by now and be on to the control panel... *sigh*

[Epyx]

Should it worry me that as Im building this, Im already mentally planning how I'd make it different for my second time?

Nope perfectly normal...move along

[saleem]

i must have missed something,you laminated the insides but,not the outsides.i can see that but,how come no laminating on outsides?

we cant get laminate in uk,its banned as far as i know,therefore,it is not sold or manufactured.being in country that allows the sale,therefore they produce it i would have loved to have been in your shoes and had the oppurtunity to use laminate for the outer sides of the cab.

will be interesting to see what you do with the outer cab,will you just do a generic spray job or a generic roller paint!

if i could have laminate today,i would be using it for my bartop.

i dont have any choice realy,i have to use paint or look for a different covering solution.i will actualy look at a different solution so i can take my cab beyond GENERIC and make it something different.

[syph007]

I didn't put laminate on the outside yet as I'm waiting untill the rest is done.  It would be pretty odd to only laminate the inside.

I'm driving screws threw from the outside for the monitor shelf and a few other things, so laminate on the outside at the start would have made that too difficult.  Plus I'd have to worry about damaging it during the build.