Author Topic: Galaga Bartop2 Completed 7/20/2011 (Read 7566 times)

BobA · « **on:** June 28, 2011, 03:27:15 pm »

Cut out a couple more of these bartops. Went alot faster since I already had the template from my first one. Going to build one with an unmentionable board in it and the other with the guts from a PC to see which I like better. May put more buttons on the PC version so it will have more versatility. The first all in one only had 2 player buttons. One will be jamma and the other will be a regular PC build.

Picture of completed game added.

Link to galaga bartop

IG-88 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 28, 2011, 04:43:12 pm »

Very nice BobA

Watching with interest!

BobA · « **Reply #2 on:** June 28, 2011, 07:57:42 pm »

Picked up a new power controller at Wallymart for $20 Canadian. It has one master, 2 switched and 1 always on outlet. It also has a lifetime warranty and insurance for $100,000 if equipment is damaged by a power surge or spike. Going to try it out in the PC bartop I am building.

There are 2 outlets on the side that you cannot see.

leapinlew · « **Reply #3 on:** June 28, 2011, 08:33:58 pm »

Before you get too far, I would like to suggest you try to mount the speakers coming from the bottom and use some feet to lift it off the ground.

I liked your last bartop minus that one detail.

BobA · « **Reply #4 on:** June 28, 2011, 08:52:24 pm »

Leapinlew. Good idea!

I have already raised the bottom 5/8 of and inch so the tmolding will not have to be cut to get around the bottom screws. I can mount a speaker down there and save the cost of a grill. On second thought I guess I need some sort of protection so someone doesn't stick a finger thru the speaker cone.

jmike · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2011, 06:41:43 am »

Another bartop?

Looking forward to your progress. I haven't finished my first one (

). But I did start on that cocktail I asked you about.

Good luck!

BobA · « **Reply #6 on:** July 02, 2011, 03:47:29 pm »

Progress so far:

Put in fan to vent LCD. Note speaker is mounted at bottom of cab as per leapenlew's suggestion.

Drilled control panel.

Found PS with switch on back and put in jumper to ground PS ON. The blue clip on the main power header is an easy way to do this. Fan is reversed so it will blow air in at the bottom and the fan at the top of cab will blow air out.

Working on getting decased LCD parts together so it can be mounted in cabinet.

That's it for now.

IG-88 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 02, 2011, 05:00:57 pm »

Would you mind going into a little more detail on how you jumpered that PSU? What exactly is that jumper and where did you get it? How did you decide on which wire to jumper?

BobA · « **Reply #8 on:** July 02, 2011, 06:39:58 pm »

On an ATX power supply ps on needs to be connected to a common or ground. Attached is also a picture of the connector I used to connect the two wires together without soldering or cutting. Please note that the connector is designed to connect a pigtail wire to a main wire. To get around this I use a drill bit and drill out the small bit of plastic that keeps you from using 2 main wires. Usually get the splice at auto supply shops.

IG-88 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 02, 2011, 10:51:52 pm »

So if I understand, you are jumping the 2 wires I have circled in the pic right? I've seen it done this way by a guy on the internets who sells bartops but he just puts a paper clip in each "hole" there-by jumping it that way. I like your idea alot better.

BobA · « **Reply #10 on:** July 02, 2011, 11:35:57 pm »

Yes that is it. Really simple and the new supplies do not need the load on the 5VDC line to keep them running that some older docs say you need. I use just the 12V in most builds and do not touch the 5V.

BobA · « **Reply #11 on:** July 03, 2011, 02:55:44 pm »

Attached an MDF base to the back of the LCD screen with construction adhesive so the circuit boards could be fastened with screws. LCD is very bright as it is supposed to be useable in sunlight.

IG-88 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 03, 2011, 08:38:42 pm »

Great idea on gluing that MDF to the back of the monitor. Another tip I'm gonna have to "borrow" from you.

On a side note, I never knew you were the builder of the original barcade!! You still got that sucker?

BobA · « **Reply #13 on:** July 03, 2011, 08:45:45 pm »

I gave the original Barcade to a neighbor for his mancave. It is amazing how far the hardware has come since then.

IG-88 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 03, 2011, 08:48:10 pm »

Is it still up and going? I got one thats about 7yr old now and running like a champ!

How about your compact mame cab? Whats it story?

BobA · « **Reply #15 on:** July 03, 2011, 09:20:07 pm »

As far as I know it is still running. Have not had a service call on it yet. Compact mame was upgraded and then just a couple of weeks ago I deconstructed it to reclaim the parts. The mdf shell will be going to the dump but the bartops that I have on the go may get a few parts from it. Audio amp, speakers, power relay, florescent light, computer etc etc.

IG-88 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2011, 09:24:04 pm »

Quote from: BobA on July 03, 2011, 09:20:07 pm

...and then just a couple of weeks ago I deconstructed it to reclaim the parts. The mdf shell will be going to the dump but the bartops that I have on the go may get a few parts from it. Audio amp, speakers, power relay, florescent light, computer etc etc.

I wouldn't have had the heart to do it. I get emotionally attached to these things for some adolescent reason.

wp34 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 04, 2011, 07:56:53 pm »

BobA - I like really your idea of using black melamine coated mdf. I found 4x8 sheets of 3/4" black melamine at my local Menards today. Would you recommend using it for a full-size cabinet? I would like to avoid laminating (or painting for that matter) but can't decide how durable it will be.

BobA · « **Reply #18 on:** July 05, 2011, 01:20:49 am »

Most commercial cabs are made from this material or even cheaper melamine coated particle board. MDF is nicer to work with.

wp34 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 05, 2011, 10:59:04 am »

Thanks. I think the sheets I found are actually particle board and not MDF. On sale for $23.99 this week so I might pick up a sheet to play around with.

BobA · « **Reply #20 on:** July 07, 2011, 12:45:28 pm »

Monitor mounted and system powered up.

Monitor still has a protective plastic sheet on the front of it so lots of glare.

The monitor only had 2 mounting holes at the top and 2 at the bottom. Small L brackets were attached with 6 32 machine screws and nuts and then the brackets were screwed with wood screws to the MDF pieces. Everything was squared up and then MDF pieces at top and bottom held the screen in place while the screws where driven into the sides of the cab using the kreg pocket hole jig to hide the screw holes.

Edit: added mounting details for monitor

IG-88 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 07, 2011, 03:30:09 pm »

Looking good Bob. You'll have to try Big Kong on that thing. It's a bootleg that the klov guys been talking about.

Couple questions: What are the rough dimensions and are you using 5/8" or 3/4" material?

BobA · « **Reply #22 on:** July 07, 2011, 04:37:02 pm »

Using 5/8 melamine coated MDF comes 8 ft long 15 inches wide. (shelving material).

Sketch attached of original cab giving dimensions. Original was 12 in wide plus 2 x 5/8 sides. This one is 11 inches wide as the bigger screen is not as wide because there is less enclosure.

BobA · « **Reply #23 on:** July 08, 2011, 05:04:26 pm »

Control panel and coin switch ready to go.

Note the routed edges of the cab are painted black so if there is any mdf showing it will blend with the t-molding. The first cab of this series I built had hairline mdf showing that had to be touched up with a marker.

IG-88 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 08, 2011, 07:35:41 pm »

Hey Bob. Do you have to use special screws with that pocket hole jig or will any type work? Been looking at them over on amazon. Think I may get the Jr. one.

BobA · « **Reply #25 on:** July 08, 2011, 09:22:42 pm »

The screws are special but not that expensive. They drill in and pull themselves tight where regular screws start treading the hole before pulling tight. This is evidenced by a piece that has a regular screw in it that has a gap at the join area instead of pulling tight.

I use zinc coated 1.25 inch coarse thread maxi loc head screws from Kreg. They are spec'd for 3/4 inch softwood but I use them for 5/8 MDF as well. You just have to adjust the collar on the Kreg drill bit so they do not pass thru the 5/8 surface.

Edit: added screw info

BobA · « **Reply #26 on:** July 09, 2011, 09:07:01 pm »

Changed from the Happs Super to a Mag Stik Plus. The Mag Stik Plus works alot better as it is switchable. The Happs Super did not work at all in 8 way games when set to 4 way. The MSP also looks alot more retro with the ball top.

Cost is double but worth it.

LeedsFan · « **Reply #27 on:** July 11, 2011, 01:34:36 am »

Nice simple control panel there. Like it! I definitely prefer the ball top over the bat-top. Much more retro and in keeping with the theme.

BobA · « **Reply #28 on:** July 13, 2011, 09:58:20 am »

Had one of those major (I guess it was only minor) setbacks. Just as things were shaping up to get the cab working I connected the LED in the coin button to 12 V. Got magic smoke from the button but it sure was bright. I know it is 5V but for some reason I forgot. Had to hack the button LED and put in a new LED and resistor. The whole thing seemed to be glued together as the LED did not come out without some snips and the use of pliers. Should be back on track today.

Ryglore · « **Reply #29 on:** July 13, 2011, 12:38:18 pm »

Awesome project! Sucks about the novagem, but hopefully it's only really a minor setback.

BobA · « **Reply #30 on:** July 13, 2011, 03:40:00 pm »

Up and running.

The to do list is fairly short.

Nova Gem CDR is looking just fine after minor surgery. My fault

Paint bezel
Mount back panel.

Artwork- Think I will do this as a Galaga cab.

15 days. I must be slowing down.

IG-88 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 13, 2011, 04:24:03 pm »

Do you make your own Jamma harness or use a pre-built one? Reason I ask is a lot of the wires on a pre-built one aren't needed are they? Especially with the board you are using?

Also, what is this board I circled?

BobA · « **Reply #32 on:** July 13, 2011, 05:06:23 pm »

The board you circled is the HV inverter for the LCD screen. It powers the lighting in the screen.

The prebuilt jamma harness has alot of wires not required in a single CP setup but since the all in one board is jamma it is the only way to connect to it. I buy the jamma harness since is probably cheaper than making my own.

IG-88 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 13, 2011, 06:09:52 pm »

Cool. I thought that was maybe the inverter but wasn't sure.

I got me one of these edge connectors for a couple bucks. Thought I could just solder up what wires I needed for my particular set up. That should work shouldn't it?

BobA · « **Reply #34 on:** July 13, 2011, 11:25:15 pm »

It should work OK. Remember to key H-7 so it cannot be inserted backwards.

BobA · « **Reply #35 on:** July 14, 2011, 03:14:47 pm »

I have heard alot of complaints about the sound quality of the 60 in 1 boards. The difference between this cab and my previous one is night and day. I think it has to do with the quality of the speaker. It is about twice as large and has a huge magnet. The first cab had a very small speaker in comparison. This cannot change some of the sound emulation problems inherent to the board but it gives very good sound at a fairly low volume level so it just seems to work better.

BobA · « **Reply #36 on:** July 15, 2011, 07:25:41 pm »

Needed a marquee light that runs on 12 Vdc. Found the perfect answer at Loews. 10 inch single strip LED light runs on a 12 volt wall wart or can be run off 12 Vdc from the PC power supply. You can attach up to 4 in series with the wall wart. There were no light strips without the complete setup when I bought this one. $15 in Canada. No shipping and no duty. Easier than ordering a nova matrix LED from GGG. Might not be as bright but it was easy to get. LEDs are brighter than they appear on camera.

IG-88 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 18, 2011, 08:30:00 pm »

Couple more questions for you Bob, on the boards you use, are they version A's or B's?

And secondly, when you cut that shelving, have you ran into any issues with it chipping?

ps. Got my Kreg Jig jr. in the mail the other day. Can't wait to try it out! Now if the temps outside will drop a bit!

BobA · « **Reply #38 on:** July 18, 2011, 10:34:29 pm »

Original board was one with the plastic covering with squares. New board is a smaller unit that does not have the covering and is a bit more compact. I have seen it referred to as a B board but not exactly sure what that means.

I did not have any chipping when I cut my melamine covered mdf. I used a fairly fine toothed blade in the table saw and a fine toothed blade when I used my scroll saw. No tape or any other protection was applied. To cut out the sides I used a router and a plywood pattern.

BobA · « **Reply #39 on:** July 20, 2011, 04:45:38 pm »

Installed T-Molding, Marquee, Bezel, Sideart and Misc art. Screwed in back as hinge and lock probably not needed because need for access is minimal.

Complete

22 days start to finish.


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