Author Topic: Defender Restore to Williams Multigame - Upgraded - JROK's WSF All In One (Read 64859 times)

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #80 on:** September 29, 2007, 12:03:18 am »

red done...

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #81 on:** September 29, 2007, 12:05:14 am »

I have to say these stencils are freakin' unbelievable... I thought they would be a problem when I began to peel them off... but (even though they hold on tight) they come off clean... just be sure to wait till the paint is a wee bit tacky...

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #82 on:** September 29, 2007, 12:11:20 am »

Here is a close-up of prOk's stencil... I could not be happier with the results... totally worth it!

Also decided to paint the inside with a light brown semi-gloss latex paint undercoated with BIN primer. Now the whole thing is totally clean, sealed and ready to be populated!

spacies · « **Reply #83 on:** September 29, 2007, 02:27:32 am »

WICKED!

Well done

Stencils rock huh!?

rockin_rick · « **Reply #84 on:** September 29, 2007, 01:16:50 pm »

Looks awesome, I'm jealous!

What kind of paint did you use for the black and colors? How did you apply it (spray can, roller, HPLV)?

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on September 29, 2007, 12:05:14 am

... I thought they would be a problem when I began to peel them off... but (even though they hold on tight) they come off clean... just be sure to wait till the paint is a wee bit tacky...

How long is a wee bit tacky? Do they need to be removed before the color is fully dry? IOW - is tacky the preferred time to remove them?

Thanks,
Rick

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #85 on:** September 30, 2007, 01:19:48 pm »

Quote from: rockin_rick on September 29, 2007, 01:16:50 pm

Looks awesome, I'm jealous!

What kind of paint did you use for the black and colors? How did you apply it (spray can, roller, HPLV)?

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on September 29, 2007, 12:05:14 am
... I thought they would be a problem when I began to peel them off... but (even though they hold on tight) they come off clean... just be sure to wait till the paint is a wee bit tacky...

How long is a wee bit tacky? Do they need to be removed before the color is fully dry? IOW - is tacky the preferred time to remove them?

Thanks,
Rick

I used rustoleum gloss black... comes in 1 qt cans... applied with a foam roller.... thinned with acetone at about 2/3 acetone/paint mixture... should be very thin... but not so thin it runs down the cab before it dries... I did a total of 6 coats! its really quite remarkable how tough and brilliant it becomes.

The red and yellow are Krylon spray (can)...

As far as when to peel off the stencil... I followed the instructions provided with them... a "bit tacky" was that if I touched the paint with my finger... it would actually stick to my finger... but not "wet". I also painted the stencils with the cab laying down but peeled off the stencil with it standing up, for better leverage.

I was going to clear-coat the whole thing... but it looks to damn good and I'm afraid to screw it up.

TOK · « **Reply #86 on:** September 30, 2007, 01:30:44 pm »

Is it possible to make a game look TOO nice?

Nah! Damn, thats sweet.

theCoder · « **Reply #87 on:** September 30, 2007, 01:40:12 pm »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on September 30, 2007, 01:19:48 pm

I was going to clear-coat the whole thing... but it looks to damn good and I'm afraid to screw it up.

It does look nice, but a clear coat will smooth the layers and keep the them from peeling. Just a suggestion.

Great progress.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #88 on:** September 30, 2007, 11:13:17 pm »

Quote from: theCoder on September 30, 2007, 01:40:12 pm

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on September 30, 2007, 01:19:48 pm
I was going to clear-coat the whole thing... but it looks to damn good and I'm afraid to screw it up.

It does look nice, but a clear coat will smooth the layers and keep the them from peeling. Just a suggestion.

Great progress.

Thanks I do agree... but the only thing I have available is spray can type... if I had a good sprayer and the right stuff... I may have the guts to do it.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #89 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:30:59 pm »

Starting to put the big pieces in place....

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #90 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:33:02 pm »

I rebuilt the monitor... it had very little burn (and its Defender burn so no biggie!)... re-capped, new flyback and HOT..

Works like a champ!

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #91 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:35:23 pm »

Here are some nice pics...

Still have to do the coin door... thats gonna make it really sparkle... also got some of the wiring done but have a lot yet to do... (before the fun begins)

spacies · « **Reply #92 on:** October 02, 2007, 12:52:52 am »

KILLER!

rockin_rick · « **Reply #93 on:** October 02, 2007, 06:13:12 pm »

Looks awesome, me jealous.

Rick

Neilyboy · « **Reply #94 on:** October 02, 2007, 06:56:10 pm »

very nice job man. im jealous as well. I would love to have that cab!! Lucky!!
nice work

Neil

CathalDublin · « **Reply #95 on:** October 02, 2007, 07:21:15 pm »

Looks fecking Brillant
Ordering the stencils for the front of mine, gonna leave the sides till another stage

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #96 on:** October 03, 2007, 11:07:14 pm »

Built the PSU board today... nothing remarkable here... just your basic fused filter/switcher/iso-former setup. I've got two mate-n-lock for monitor and marquee lamp connections.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #97 on:** October 20, 2007, 08:15:13 pm »

I've redone the PSU to make it compatible with original Defender wiring harness... I put it on the same size board as the original and re-strapped the ground braid nearly identical to the original...

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #98 on:** October 20, 2007, 08:17:17 pm »

More pics of jamma wiring and new coin door harness, compatible with Defender coin door.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #99 on:** October 20, 2007, 08:19:25 pm »

Coin door converted to 12V DC and now lit with leds..

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #100 on:** October 20, 2007, 08:21:58 pm »

Here is another coin door view... and marquee lit!

Next step is to connect the williams hardware to the JAMMA finger board.

Oh... I cleaned and put the black plasic mesh back in behind the vent holes

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #101 on:** October 24, 2007, 12:11:47 am »

All finished... sorry my final shots aren't too good... I just don't have the patience some of you do with cameras and setting up the perfect shot...

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #102 on:** October 24, 2007, 12:13:07 am »

a couple more..

Thanks for lookin' and all the feedback.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #103 on:** October 24, 2007, 12:23:53 am »

Here is where it has found its final home... Ms. Pac is next... going to the left...

bfauska · « **Reply #104 on:** October 24, 2007, 02:00:49 am »

Very nicely done restorfication. The cab looks like new (probably better.) Do you not use the coin slots or is there just no bucket in place for the photos? It seems like it could be bad if a coin landed just right on some parts of the electronics inside, even if YOU don't use coins you can never tell what some kid will do.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #105 on:** October 24, 2007, 08:06:40 am »

Quote from: bfauska on October 24, 2007, 02:00:49 am

Very nicely done restorfication. The cab looks like new (probably better.) Do you not use the coin slots or is there just no bucket in place for the photos? It seems like it could be bad if a coin landed just right on some parts of the electronics inside, even if YOU don't use coins you can never tell what some kid will do.

You got it...I do use the coin slots and removed the bucket for the pic... I also have a new piece of fishpaper that goes in place across the shelf (as per original).. .

prOk · « **Reply #106 on:** October 24, 2007, 09:06:37 pm »

what the heck is fishpaper?

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #107 on:** October 25, 2007, 08:42:10 am »

Quote from: prOk on October 24, 2007, 09:06:37 pm

what the heck is fishpaper?

Its a fibroid paper type substance (almost like a really really dense thin cardboard, thickness of about matchbook paper) used in electrical applications for insulation. Its sometimes used to shroud fuse holders and places on/around arcade power supplies to shield AC voltages.... For Defender Williams used a piece across the shelf to stop quarters from falling over into the base of the cabinet.

The Chugnut · « **Reply #108 on:** October 25, 2007, 12:23:41 pm »

Outstanding!

spacies · « **Reply #109 on:** October 25, 2007, 02:19:19 pm »

Well done mate.

This the best Defender Restoration on the net!

You should be proud

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #110 on:** October 25, 2007, 02:51:44 pm »

Quote from: The Chugnut on October 25, 2007, 12:23:41 pm

Outstanding!

Thank you!

Quote from: spacies on October 25, 2007, 02:19:19 pm

Well done mate.

This the best Defender Restoration on the net!

You should be proud

Wow! Your work is pretty darn high-end... your complement is much appreciated.

Flake · « **Reply #111 on:** August 26, 2008, 11:15:26 am »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on August 06, 2007, 11:14:52 am

Quote from: WunderCade on July 22, 2007, 01:31:37 pm
Quote from: RetroACTIVE on May 16, 2007, 10:14:50 am
This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

How's this one going Retro?

WunderCade,

Things have kind of slowed for me... summer time is really tied up with family vacations and such... Here is what I've done...

- Rebuilt the coin door
- Williams Multigame artwork done
- Monitor rebuilt
- Defender joystick rebuilt
- Both Defender and multigame panels cut
- Purchased new Defender control panel overlay and monitor bezel (Arcadeshop)
- I've also gathered up all of the materials needed for wiring and such...

All I have left is to finish the outside. Then I can put it together and start using it.

Sorry for the lack of updates... should have known better than to start a project in the spring! Things will pick up very soon!

Quote from: rockin_rick on July 26, 2007, 07:06:45 pm
WOW - I just found this. Thanks a lot for taking the time to document this. It's obvious that you want to provide accurate plans for this. If I may make a request, when time permits, could you post measurements for the side panel where you reference one point and the angles (corners) are measured like coordinates on an x-y axis, rather than transversing the perimeter? I think that with all the angles, there is a lot of potential for errors to build up and to get quite off the intended path.

I'm thinking that it could be like the measurements for the CP. Reference the back bottom corner, and call that 0,0. Then measure the horz distance and vertical distance to each of the 'corners' (inside and outside angles) of the side. Sort of like if there was a grid over the side panel. Assuming that the back is 90° to the bottom and the front "kick panel" is also 90° to the bottom - then the 'corner' that is the first bend away from the back angled up towards the marquee would be coordinate (0,57 1/2) The corner where the bottom turns to go up the kick panel would be (26 1/4,0). The corner where the kick panel angles out to the coin door panel would be (26 1/4,21 1/8).

Then one could measure out where all the corners are, and then just connect the dots.

If you do not have time to do this, I understand. You have already done a lot regarding this. I certainly appreciate it, and I'm sure many others do to.

And I am also very interested in any updates you have with this project (non-documentation wise).

Thanks,
Rick

Hey Rick,

Yeah... I agree with you... I will do the ref diagram for you and others... It won't be too too hard... before I populate the cabinet... I will lay it on its side trace it out to get the coordinates...

What joysticks did you use for the multi-williams control panel? I'm curious as to how you incorporated a 49-way joystick into the control panel for Sinstar? Also, what type of joystick is the left one on the multi-williams CP? How does it affect Defender game play?

Thanks

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #112 on:** August 27, 2008, 08:11:59 am »

Quote from: Flake on August 26, 2008, 11:15:26 am

What joysticks did you use for the multi-williams control panel? I'm curious as to how you incorporated a 49-way joystick into the control panel for Sinstar? Also, what type of joystick is the left one on the multi-williams CP? How does it affect Defender game play?

Thanks

This machine uses Clay Cowgill's Williams Multigame kit which does not support Sinistar... so 49 way is not needed. Clay's kit only has Defender, Stargate, Joust, Robotron, Bubbles and Splat so you are able to use 8 way sticks to satisfy them all. I used Wico leafs for the panel to meet the Robotron requirement. It actually works pretty well for Defender in Stargate... since the stick has some give from left to right helps reach the reverse button... (since its a little far from the stick!).

Level42 · « **Reply #113 on:** August 27, 2008, 08:46:48 am »

Flake · « **Reply #114 on:** August 27, 2008, 09:05:49 am »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on August 27, 2008, 08:11:59 am

Quote from: Flake on August 26, 2008, 11:15:26 am
What joysticks did you use for the multi-williams control panel? I'm curious as to how you incorporated a 49-way joystick into the control panel for Sinstar? Also, what type of joystick is the left one on the multi-williams CP? How does it affect Defender game play?

Thanks

This machine uses Clay Cowgill's Williams Multigame kit which does not support Sinistar... so 49 way is not needed. Clay's kit only has Defender, Stargate, Joust, Robotron, Bubbles and Splat so you are able to use 8 way sticks to satisfy them all. I used Wico leafs for the panel to meet the Robotron requirement. It actually works pretty well for Defender in Stargate... since the stick has some give from left to right helps reach the reverse button... (since its a little far from the stick!).

I see, well would you happen to know what the control panel / joystick setup is for the Multi-Williams PCB that includes Sinistar? I think Arcadeshop has a programmable multi-williams pcb for horizontal monitors and one of the games is Sinistar. So how do they incorporate a 49-way into the CP design for that pcb?

I have a Defender cabinet I would like to restore and was thinking of going the Multi-williams route on the pcb and cp but have been unable to find information on the joystick setup.

Thanks

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #115 on:** August 27, 2008, 10:01:19 am »

Quote from: Flake on August 27, 2008, 09:05:49 am

I see, well would you happen to know what the control panel / joystick setup is for the Multi-Williams PCB that includes Sinistar? I think Arcadeshop has a programmable multi-williams pcb for horizontal monitors and one of the games is Sinistar. So how do they incorporate a 49-way into the CP design for that pcb?

I have a Defender cabinet I would like to restore and was thinking of going the Multi-williams route on the pcb and cp but have been unable to find information on the joystick setup.

Thanks

They don't... the Sinistar that was implemented in the arcadeshop board and other multi's does not use a 49 way... its been "translated" to use an 8 way... I'm afraid if you want a true Sinistar feel... you will probably need to go with the original... or perhaps .... MAME with an analog stick (U360 w/custom mapping) may be your second best bet.

Flake · « **Reply #116 on:** August 27, 2008, 10:04:24 am »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on August 27, 2008, 10:01:19 am

Quote from: Flake on August 27, 2008, 09:05:49 am
I see, well would you happen to know what the control panel / joystick setup is for the Multi-Williams PCB that includes Sinistar? I think Arcadeshop has a programmable multi-williams pcb for horizontal monitors and one of the games is Sinistar. So how do they incorporate a 49-way into the CP design for that pcb?

I have a Defender cabinet I would like to restore and was thinking of going the Multi-williams route on the pcb and cp but have been unable to find information on the joystick setup.

Thanks

They don't... the Sinistar that was implemented in the arcadeshop board and other multi's does not use a 49 way... its been "translated" to use an 8 way... I'm afraid if you want a true Sinistar feel... you will probably need to go with the original... or perhaps .... MAME with an analog stick (U360 w/custom mapping) may be your second best bet.

Thanks Retro thats what I needed to know. Appreciate it.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #117 on:** November 28, 2008, 04:52:40 pm »

This machine recently received jrok's Williams All In One board. I've removed the Robotron/Joust board set and Clay's Williams Multigame kit. I'm putting all the original Defender pcbs back in and lastly redesigning the CPO to make it more aligned with the motif of the original Defender CPO.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #118 on:** June 25, 2009, 03:27:43 pm »

Great job on the restore!!!!!!! And thanks for all of the careful measuring.

Why paint instead of laminate? I'm curious because I'll likely need to pick one or the other at some point.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #119 on:** June 25, 2009, 03:29:46 pm »

And another question (since you have both Defender and Ms. Pacman)!

Is it as easy to remove the control panel on the Ms. Pacman as it is on the Defender machine?

Thanks!
Gary


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