I'm conjuring up a poor mans way of using 2 with some card board in between for a cheap but hopefully effective forstner bit stop.
Cardboard is too flimsy, but you could use a hole saw cutout like this.
- You will need to drill out the center of the cutout.
- If you don't have a holesaw, drill the center hole for the cutout and cut the body with a jigsaw.
- Leave a path for the chips to escape.
3/4 inch ply and mdf for test panels.
Yes I'm raising the sticks underneath a bit (approx 1/4) but can't go too high or I won't have room for the lighting. (see my build thread for more details). Supporting blocks / metal braces underneath to sandwich it in is a possibility too provided there's room. I may have to use some sort of solution like this for my custom spinner mount to work with lighting.
Inserts from Lowe's are 7/16 deep.
The "Under mount (threaded inserts)" method in a 1/4" pocket is cutting it
way too close.
You'll definitely want to use some variation of the "Under mount (support blocks)" method with the threaded inserts installed in a full-thickness area of the CP outside the pocket area.
T Nuts are slightly less with a 5/16 shaft and 1/32 lip as an option too but it didn't seem like they would grab quite as well?
T-nuts go on the side of the board opposite the screw.
- The T-nuts are on top in the blue recess, screws on the bottom.
- The flange on the T-nut keeps it from pulling through the board when you tighten the screw.
- The prongs or brads keep the T-nut from rotating, not from pulling out.
I would have no way of knowing a threaded insert requires a particular type of screw. There's a ton of assumed knowledge with all things in a hardware store.
Sorry, thought you would bring the insert to the store to confirm you had the right screws.
Now you know, and knowing is half the battle.
If the thread count isn't shown on the package, it should be marked as either "coarse"/"UNC"/"UNRC" (8-32) or "fine"/"UNF"/"UNRF". (8-36)
That would have helped, but no such markings exist.
The "metal" marking on the package is short for "sheet metal."
Markings like "brass", "stainless", or "zinc" refer to the type of metal the screw is made from.
Scott