Author Topic: GaryMcT's 2-player generic control panel layout (Read 58417 times)

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #120 on:** July 28, 2009, 02:08:39 pm »

I just took a small drill bit and made guide holes through the paper. Then I removed the paper and drilled. Also, I've taken a hammer before and tapped a nail or screw to make the guide mark.

bkenobi · « **Reply #121 on:** July 28, 2009, 02:39:20 pm »

If I remember correctly, I used an automatic center punch in combination with a paper template. It can be difficult to locate the dimple, so I suggest marking it with a sharpie dot as you carefully take off the template. That way you have a visible mark to locate the hole, but a precise dimple to start your drill in.

There's lots of ways to skin a cat. The important thing is getting rid of the cat.

massive88 · « **Reply #122 on:** July 28, 2009, 04:43:42 pm »

Quote from: GaryMcT on July 28, 2009, 01:37:13 pm

I tried taping the paper on and drilling right through for my first prototype. The paper tears all over the place, at least with the full forstner bit. Maybe drilling tiny guide holes through the paper is the way to go? My results are so imprecise so far that it's blatantly obvious.

If your layout is in cad, what I did was put some very small circles in the center of my button circles. Those I would then punch through the paper with a ball point pen, then line up the paper on the wood and mark on the wood with a felt tip through the hole once overlayed.

Then it was just a matter of lining up my drill on each marked center spot on the wood.

Maybe not exact, but pretty easy and effective.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #123 on:** July 28, 2009, 04:44:44 pm »

Quote from: massive88 on July 28, 2009, 04:43:42 pm

Quote from: GaryMcT on July 28, 2009, 01:37:13 pm
I tried taping the paper on and drilling right through for my first prototype. The paper tears all over the place, at least with the full forstner bit. Maybe drilling tiny guide holes through the paper is the way to go? My results are so imprecise so far that it's blatantly obvious.

If your layout is in cad, what I did was put some very small circles in the center of my button circles. Those I would then punch through the paper with a ball point pen, then line up the paper on the wood and mark on the wood with a felt tip through the hole once overlayed.

Then it was just a matter of lining up my drill on each marked center spot on the wood.

Maybe not exact, but pretty easy and effective.

They are in Sketchup. .close enough.

I already have crosses at the center of the buttons, so I'll give that a try.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #124 on:** July 28, 2009, 05:01:57 pm »

Quote from: massive88 on July 28, 2009, 04:43:42 pm

Those I would then punch through the paper with a ball point pen, then line up the paper on the wood and mark on the wood with a felt tip through the hole once overlayed.

Then it was just a matter of lining up my drill on each marked center spot on the wood.

Maybe not exact, but pretty easy and effective.

I've done this, but it usually led to my holes being slightly off from one another. Not always, though.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #125 on:** July 28, 2009, 11:42:27 pm »

Yeah, if I don't figure out this crimping tool soon, I'm going to set the building on fire.

bkenobi · « **Reply #126 on:** July 29, 2009, 12:00:41 pm »

Crimping can be frustrating until you figure it out. If you crimp too hard, you snap the wires. If you don't crimp hard enough, the terminals slide off. You also have to get the wires in the right spot so they will be trapped and not destroyed.

I found that if I stripped 2x the length I needed in the terminal, then I could twist the wire, fold it in half, and insert the bent tip in the terminal opening. When I crimped, I made sure that the folded wire was flat so the wire will sorta straddle the crimped in part. I don't know if that makes sense or not.

Kman-Sweden · « **Reply #127 on:** July 29, 2009, 12:39:49 pm »

You could strip then twist the wire, then put some solder on it -THEN crimp. Lots of FUN extra work. It'll hold better.

What kind of crimping tool do you use? I have a real cheap one and I usually crimp two times.
Once on striped wire and the again further out over insulated wire. Am I making any sense?

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #128 on:** July 29, 2009, 02:09:46 pm »

Makes sense to me. That's what I do (minus the soldering).

GaryMcT · « **Reply #129 on:** July 29, 2009, 02:27:58 pm »

So it's generally a good idea to have the transition from stripped wire to wire about halfway through the narrow bit that you crimp?

I'm going to probably go buy a better crimper also.

bkenobi · « **Reply #130 on:** July 29, 2009, 02:42:34 pm »

I tried tinning the wires (soldering), but that made the wire brittle and tended to break at the end of the tinned section. One thing I forgot to mention is that I made sure that there was some insulated portion inserted near the end of the terminal for the crimper to grab onto. If you don't do that, then the wire will be taking all the stress and I found it would break REALLY easily.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #131 on:** July 29, 2009, 03:29:33 pm »

How does this look for a nice crimping tool? This place is right down the road from me:

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_42&products_id=1030

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #132 on:** July 29, 2009, 03:38:21 pm »

$30 seems high, but it looks better than the one I use. Grab this if you don't have one: LINK

GaryMcT · « **Reply #133 on:** July 29, 2009, 03:41:30 pm »

I have a stripper, but it isn't nearly as bad-ass as that one.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #134 on:** July 29, 2009, 03:47:47 pm »

I got my QwikStrip at Walmart for $13. It has been one of my favorite tools ever.

Kman-Sweden · « **Reply #135 on:** July 29, 2009, 04:41:57 pm »

Quote from: GaryMcT on July 29, 2009, 03:29:33 pm

How does this look for a nice crimping tool? This place is right down the road from me:

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_42&products_id=1030

That one would probably last you a life time..

bkenobi · « **Reply #136 on:** July 29, 2009, 04:47:12 pm »

Just make sure you have the right size for your connectors. Those 3 dots are color coded, so you should be good with that one. If you get a cheaper one, make sure it has the color code you are using for your connector or else it won't work (at least not as well).

DEFINITELY get a decent cable stripper. I have one that's rotated from that one, but it does the same thing. Don't even try using the old school ones. These new ones can strip any sized cable with zero adjustments. I don't know how the old school guys lived without these.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #137 on:** July 29, 2009, 06:20:23 pm »

By the way, the Ultrastik works GREAT for Sinistar!

GaryMcT · « **Reply #138 on:** July 30, 2009, 04:15:57 am »

With a 7 button layout like mine, which row do you guys use for 1-3 button games? I can't decide between the bottom row, which is nice because there are no buttons in the way below it, or the top row because of the extra wrist support. Just curious.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #139 on:** July 30, 2009, 09:20:10 am »

I use the bottom row.

456
123
7

I don't like to reach to the top row for games that only use a few buttons, plus I've noticed my guests always assume the bottom row is the correct one.

Bender · « **Reply #140 on:** July 30, 2009, 10:25:19 am »

Gary,

I have that crimper and I think it's awesome. It ratchets down to the desired crimp strength then releases. If you plan on doing more than one panel, and I know you do, I think it's worth it
It has fine tune adjustments so you can get just the pressure you want

~~they make a nice automatic wire stripper that is pretty handy too!~~ never mind Ginsu already linked to it (I was reading through too quick)

there is a program cfgmagition in the software forum that is awesome and allows you to map the number of buttons any way you like and it applies it all the roms with that # of buttons ( or other opptions too like neo geo)

So I have mine set up like this
but the cool thing about the program is you can customize it to your hearts content
and I use LEDblinky to light up the appropriate buttons

xxx
xx1
x 1 button games

xxx
x12
x 2 button

xxx
123
x 3 button

x12
x34
x 4 button (Non neo geo)

xxx
234
1 neo geo

1x2
345
x 5 button

123
456
x 6 button

xxx
12x
x spinner/trackball games (because of the placement of the spinner /trackball)

ect.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #141 on:** July 30, 2009, 10:44:43 am »

Quote from: Bender on July 30, 2009, 10:25:19 am

there is a program cfgmagition in the software forum that is awesome and allows you to map the number of buttons any way you like and it applies it all the roms with that # of buttons ( or other opptions too like neo geo)

CFG Magician
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88948.0

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #142 on:** July 30, 2009, 10:46:04 am »

Bender, that's some weird mapping you've got there.

Bender · « **Reply #143 on:** July 30, 2009, 10:54:58 am »

you mean the 1st 2? and the spinner?

the rest are pretty standard, no?

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #144 on:** July 30, 2009, 10:57:46 am »

Quote from: Bender on July 30, 2009, 10:25:19 am

xxx
xx1
x 1 button games

xxx
x12
x 2 button

x12
x34
x 4 button (Non neo geo)

These are the weird ones to me.

Bender · « **Reply #145 on:** July 30, 2009, 11:25:18 am »

my thinking on the 1 and 2 button games is that the buttons on the old games were pretty far from the joystick so I was trying to replicate that, and it feels really good to me

yeah the 4 button non neo geo I'm not sure about.
In the limited research I did, I saw some original cp's espcially 4 button fighters set up that way
or do you just mean that there shifted away from the joystick?

how would you do the 4 button layout?

and there are also a few that I've customized on an individual game basis
examples:

star wars has 4 buttons and I set those up neo geo style
tron I have my top fire button mapped as button 1 as well as one on the CP

bkenobi · « **Reply #146 on:** July 30, 2009, 11:52:40 am »

I have mine set up differently apparently. I have them wired as follows:

5 6 7
2 3 4
1

I use the bottom row for 1-4 button games and they are very comfortable. I do use cfgMagician to modify my mappings for 5 and 6 button games though. For those I use:

6 button:
1 2 3
4 5 6
x

5 button:
1 2 3
4 2 5
x

My layout is arched, so the lower middle SF button (wired button 3) is about where the middle button is on MK in it's 5 button config. I have the top and bottom button mapped to the same since, as I recall, that's block. That way if I hit the wrong button it doesn't really matter. The alternative would have been:

1 x 2
3 4 5
x

I also use CPWizard to show what's what, so there should be no confusion for guests either.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #147 on:** July 30, 2009, 12:05:20 pm »

Quote from: Bender on July 30, 2009, 11:25:18 am

how would you do the 4 button layout?

Either Neo Geo style, or

34X
12X
X

For my layout, it would be:
Neo Geo
123
4

Non-Neo Geo
34X
12X
X

Bender · « **Reply #148 on:** July 30, 2009, 12:25:21 pm »

Gary,
sorry for the slight hijack, but there is some good info here
great to see how other people set up there button layouts

Ginsu,

thanks, I think I'm going to go with neo geo for most 4 button games except fighters. For those aren't 1,2 on the top row and 3,4 on the bottom
again for me it's more comfortable to have the buttons further away from the joystick so that's why I have them shifted to the right

bkenobi,

mine is arched too, the 5 button SF layout works very well

Malenko · « **Reply #149 on:** July 30, 2009, 01:04:33 pm »

I prefer bender's way. it covers SO many configs pretty closely without being frankenpanelly. in addition to what he posted, I use 123 from the neo geo layout for games like NBA Jam, the 1 button is perfect for turbo

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #150 on:** July 30, 2009, 01:59:11 pm »

Quote from: Bender on July 30, 2009, 12:25:21 pm

Ginsu,

thanks, I think I'm going to go with neo geo for most 4 button games except fighters. For those aren't 1,2 on the top row and 3,4 on the bottom
again for me it's more comfortable to have the buttons further away from the joystick so that's why I have them shifted to the right

Well, I was only giving my opinion based on how I play. The most important thing is that you play however it is most comfortable for you. However, if you have a lot of guests playing your cab, take them into consideration, too.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #151 on:** July 30, 2009, 05:40:01 pm »

Quote from: Bender on July 30, 2009, 12:25:21 pm

Gary,
sorry for the slight hijack, but there is some good info here
great to see how other people set up there button layouts

Ginsu,

thanks, I think I'm going to go with neo geo for most 4 button games except fighters. For those aren't 1,2 on the top row and 3,4 on the bottom
again for me it's more comfortable to have the buttons further away from the joystick so that's why I have them shifted to the right

bkenobi,

mine is arched too, the 5 button SF layout works very well

Bender, I think your layout is just about perfect for me. I want the buttons to be as far right as possible to be comfortable. I'm still unsure of top row or bottom row when there is a choice. I may extend my control panel out a bit on the bottom so that there is more wrist space for the bottom row (if that doesn't look too ghetto.)

GaryMcT · « **Reply #152 on:** July 31, 2009, 03:12:57 am »

Dangit, I'm starting to think that I really want lit buttons. had my brother-in-law over playing today. . would have been nice not to have to explain the buttons for every game.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #153 on:** July 31, 2009, 08:37:26 am »

The feel and sound of lit buttons are a definite issue. They tend to feel brittle and have a hollow sound (and some squeak). I was not a fan of them myself and removed them.

Bender · « **Reply #154 on:** July 31, 2009, 10:28:55 am »

yeah, I wasn't sure at first about them cause I'd seen so many people with these epileptic causing animations that just turned me off
but I keep mine very simple and the look pretty nice when off, and now I can't imagine not having them

I got the happ transparent ones and the feel and sound is the same as regular happs button to me
I do have one that squeeks but I think that can easily be fixed(but I've heard of squeeking just as much from regular buttons)

but if you really want to go nuts check out what Ond and Franco came up with

But I really like the buttons to light up the color they actually were on the original game, just so cool and no confusion

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #155 on:** July 31, 2009, 10:36:20 am »

Even the Happ Translucents feel brittle to me. It's the plastic used.

Bender · « **Reply #156 on:** July 31, 2009, 10:38:30 am »

wierd, if anything mine feel soft

might be the micro-leafs, maybe?

GaryMcT · « **Reply #157 on:** July 31, 2009, 01:55:21 pm »

Oh dear, I didn't realize that LEDBlinky had a database of the buttons colors for all the games! Oh man that is cool.

Malenko · « **Reply #158 on:** July 31, 2009, 02:15:00 pm »

I might try white buttons lit up the way franco did it, but with multi colored LEDs so I can switch the "highlight color" I had translucent buttons before I didnt like them at all.

GaryMcT · « **Reply #159 on:** July 31, 2009, 02:20:22 pm »

Getting a friend to come over and playtest on the latest proto control panel this weekend. Can't wait!

And CFG Magician is a life saver!

Setting up GameEx now. . .looks like there are multiple U360 plugins for it. . any recommendations?


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news