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Author Topic: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)  (Read 104779 times)

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drventure

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #120 on: December 24, 2009, 10:44:18 am »
Sure. I've got some circuit designs around somewhere. I'll post what I have in  abit.

saurian333

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #121 on: December 24, 2009, 11:56:07 pm »
Woot-off lights!  Best idea ever!  :laugh2:

Your machine looks incredible, dude.  If I'm ever in the area, I'm brining beers over.  :cheers:

drventure

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #122 on: December 25, 2009, 12:36:53 am »
Here's the circuit I mentioned. I found the optoisolator at Fry's but I believe radio shack carries a similar package.

The "USB SWITCH" is the LED Wiz. Essentially, your using the isolator to "isolate" whatever voltage/current is needed to drive an arbitrary device, from the LEDWiz side (which has a fairly limited current at 5vdc).

In this particular case, i'm using it to isolate AC 90v at about 1200hz (what's required to drive ELWire) from the LEDWiz, which definitely wouldn't like that kind of voltage  :)

Just a reminder though. I'm no EE. If this blows your LEDWiz, you didn't get it from me.

It might be good to run whatever circuit you end up with past the guys at ggg and get their input also.

Shortbus

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #123 on: December 28, 2009, 08:03:53 am »
Wow....just Wow...Excellent Thread, excellent work. I had thought of doing this in the past, but I have never thought more about it till now. Thank you for sharing all this good info, awesome job!

 :cheers:     :applaud:

bigpete405

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #124 on: December 28, 2009, 01:15:13 pm »
So  :censored: awesome  :cheers: I need one of those asap. You might have spawned a new  :notworthy: obsession

Burke LaShell

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #125 on: January 06, 2010, 12:31:47 pm »
I think a Solid State Relay is the same thing as the optoisolator.  You can pick them up pretty cheap on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-in-Box-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-24-480V-AC-25A_W0QQitemZ250558892739QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a56794ac3

padstack

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #126 on: January 07, 2010, 11:21:26 pm »
Sorry if this was covered already.  I skimmed, but didn't see it.  What about buying short lengths of PVC for the rings?  That way, it's guaranteed to be a true circle and not worrying about the cove molding bending or not being perfect.

Very cool project!

saurian333

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #127 on: January 07, 2010, 11:47:26 pm »
Sorry if this was covered already.  I skimmed, but didn't see it.  What about buying short lengths of PVC for the rings?  That way, it's guaranteed to be a true circle and not worrying about the cove molding bending or not being perfect.

Very cool project!

But, the larger rings...can you just pop down to Home Depot and get 2' wide PVC pipe?  Even if you can, can you buy just a 6" (or whatever) length, or do you have to get 6' at a time?  Might not be very cost-efficient.  Also, the outside one with the U-shape would still be the molding, unless you could cut and bend the PVC well enough.

Besides, I think it looks good as it is.  PVC is sturdier, though, and might be an option for someone else building one if they have access to it.

drventure

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #128 on: January 07, 2010, 11:58:48 pm »
2" wide might be a tad small. You'd likely need the 4" pipe, and yep, that stuff is all over the plumbing section of lowes.

I bought  a3 foot section to make a steam bender out of, but returned it when I went a different way with my frame idea.

But I'd agree that pvc would make those catch tubes really easy. assuming that's the right size. And 3" only costs like, maybe 5$ if that.

BTW, this is a great project. If I had space.... And time.... and a tad more money....<sigh>

saurian333

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #129 on: January 08, 2010, 12:54:04 am »
2" wide might be a tad small. You'd likely need the 4" pipe, and yep, that stuff is all over the plumbing section of lowes.

No no, that was 2 feet (which was just a number I threw out there, not sure how accurate it is).  I was referring to the larger rings on a skeeball ramp.  Can you get something that huge in a typical hardware store?

drventure

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #130 on: January 08, 2010, 08:44:55 am »
Doh! :dizzy:

Guess I shouldn't respond to posts so late. My eyes get fuzzy.

Sorry about that. Nope, never seen 2' pvc at lowes or home depot, or anywhere else for that matter!

samej71

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #131 on: February 01, 2010, 02:21:15 am »
Happy belated new years :)

Been awhile since my last post. Not sure what the status of your build is, so I thought I'd weigh-in on the LedWiz and the Woot lights.

You can use ULN2803 to drive 500ma devices safely with a 25ma signal and an external power source. The ULN2803 can be purchased for $.35 to $2.00 or so. Along with the price, s/h will vary by store, of course.

Here are a couple articles doing something similar:
http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/cols/nv/vol1/col/nv6.pdf

This is a slightly different take, using an NPN transistor and a couple of other components (ie, diode, resistors, led) instead of the ULN2803. Maybe $5 in parts. In this example, it is used to control a relay which is, in turn, controlling a 120v outlet.
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tutorial_info.php?tutorials_id=119

I've toyed with a similar idea for higher-draw lights both on top of the scoreboard, but possibly embedded along the rails to selectively light the rings and alley, possibly with UV (blacklight) LEDs for some "moonlight skeeball" action.  :)

--James

samej71

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #132 on: February 01, 2010, 02:25:52 am »
One more thing.... :)

I've tried to think of what could be used to protect the sides of the alley...plastic chair rails, etc.

While I don't really like it, this is the best thing I've been able to come up with so far that can be easily bought from a number of places: the protectors that power cords (and any other cords) are put into across walkways to keep them from getting damaged as well as keeping people from tripping on them and causing other havoc. Anyhow, the flat bottoms of these could be glued or somehow otherwise attached to the sides of the alley.
For example:
  http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-100669768/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
They're bulkier/bigger than I'd like and not cheap, either. I've also wondered if the bathroom floor moulding (from the rings) might work on the sides, but I'm not sure how we'll they'd attach to the sides or if they'd be too tall to even work. For that matter, I'm not sure if the cord protectors will be too tall or not.

On an unrelated topic.. If you get some time, would you post the flash file you've been working on? I'd love to play with it, even though I have nothing built to use it on. :)

--James

saurian333

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #133 on: February 02, 2010, 09:41:54 pm »
I would guess that the floor molding would work OK.  It's designed to be stuck to a flat surface, and if it's too tall, it should cut fairly easily with a sharp blade.

thatpurplestuff

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #134 on: February 03, 2010, 02:09:12 am »
First, thank you very much everyone for the kind words and informative posts.  Sorry for the lack of updates and replies... work has been incredibly busy and I've been taking a lot of it home with me, leaving little time for much else.  Also, our finances have put a temporary hold on the Skeeball build, but I should be back at it in a few weeks.

drventure & samej71- thank you very much for the info about the lights.  I haven't begun integrating them yet but your input has been very helpful.

In terms of the rings discussion, PVC is a bad idea.  Ixliam (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,29727.0.html) used it for his rings and promptly bought actual Skeeball rings on eBay after his rings were chipping and cracking.  For anyone considering building their own Skeeball machine, I would STRONGLY advise against using any material that doesn't have a significant amount of "give" to it for the rings, otherwise you're looking at the wooden balls getting chewed up with dings and dents.  After seeing the abuse that the scoring area takes through average use, I'd be willing to bet that all I would have left of the actual Skeeballs is wood shavings if these rings weren't made of this rubber molding.  If I recall correctly from another thread, actual Skeeball rings are custom made by GoodYear and are essentially white wall tires without the tire portion, making them perfect for absorbing impact while retaining the integrity of the rings.  I've gotta say that if I were to build another one of these, I would use the rubber bathroom molding again in a heartbeat.  It may not be as perfect as the real thing, but it functions nearly the same and I'm not lying when I say that one of the first things people ask when they see the game up and running is "Where did you get the rings for Skeeball?!"

That being said, I have given a lot of thought to using PVC pipe below the scoring area to direct the balls to the return chute at some point.  Not high on my list of things to do but it's something I may want to return to before I consider the machine "finished".

samej71- In regards to that rubber cord cover, I actually have some of that stuff in use around the house so I held it up to the Skeeball machine.  You're right about it being a bit bigger than it needs to be, but it doesn't look half bad and it would definitely take the punishment.  It's a bit pricey as well but one 15ft strip would be enough for both sides.

Also, I have received several requests for my Skeeball software.  I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and I really want to clean up some things before I distribute it (plus there are a few gameplay bugs I have noticed in playing it for the last few months.)  Rest assured that I will releasing this software, but again I want it to meet my minimum standard of quality before I make it available for public consumption.  Now that I know that there is a demand, I will make a point to speed up my work.

Thank you again for all of the interest in this project.

I've been bad about updating, but as things at work slow down (and the garage warms up a bit) I will hit the ground running with this project.

So once again, we find that evil of the past seeps into the present like salad dressing through cheap wax paper, mixing memory and desire.

loggergolf

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #135 on: February 16, 2010, 11:01:55 am »
In working on this myself, I have considered using vinyl like done on this one, but also have been looking for (affordable) cork surfacing. Anyone knoledgeable about this stuff and could tell me what to look for? There is all kinds of underlayment and rolls and everything else....just need to be pointed in a direction about what would work for this purpose and what would not. Thanks...

thatpurplestuff

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #136 on: March 21, 2010, 09:24:11 pm »
Kerfing... it sounds way more fun than it is.

I need some advice.  I am going to try to cap the rounded edges with wood rather than the traditional metal coin door / service caps.  The method that seemed the easiest to get this curve was kerfing, so I set out to try it.  I have already snapped one attempted corner (it was 1/4" mdf and more rigid than the 1/4" plywood that I have now).  The plywood is definitely closer to being able to fit the tight curve, but I'm afraid I'm going to snap it if I really try to push it.  Does anyone have any advice as to how I can get the plywood to make the turn a little tighter?  The only solution I have seen so far has been to get the wood wet and then form it to the curve.  I am willing to try this but I was hoping to get some feedback from people that have experience with this kind of thing.  My concerns are that the water on the plywood might transfer to the MDF and mess it up, or that the plywood will get all warped and funky if I do it wrong.

What's the best way to do this?  Any kind souls care to weigh in?  Please?  Haha

Also, I've made some significant progress towards the net and the bumpers, but I'll post those updates once I get the corners figured out.












So once again, we find that evil of the past seeps into the present like salad dressing through cheap wax paper, mixing memory and desire.

samej71

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #137 on: March 22, 2010, 12:41:30 pm »
Hello again.

I've thought about your question and had some suggestions (most of which I've assume you've already pondered). A wood-working fiend of mine helped come up with a couple.

1) Painting the MDF with a waterproof paint so it'd be pretty much shielded some from the moisture of the wet wood.

2) treating the plywood (steam/water) and creating a temporary water-tolerant jig to get the curve close to the cap's shape, and let it dry on the jig. After it has dried, it can be attached to the real side units without requiring so much dry bending force and without risking MDF swelling.

3) Using a material meant for bending, such as Wacky Wood, Wiggle Wood, or Bendy Wood. Not sure what the cost is or where it can be purchased. I'm guessing this isn't within the budget.

4) Use left-over MDF and do essentially what you did for the ball hop ramp. Cut several pieces of MDF approximately the size of the top of the cap, making sure you have 1/4" more on the top and front (so it will match up with the 1/4" ply or MDF you use to cover the rest of the side unit). Cut the outer edge to have the same approximate curve as the cap and trim the inner edge to lose some weight. String a few side-by-side until you have the whole end filled. You'll have to do something similar to the sides themselves so they're 1/4" bigger. Not sure if you'd want to cut a notch in them and put one of these new curved pieces there, or if you'd want to use wood filler or something to build it up so it matches. Either way, once assembled then it can be sanded so it looks like one solid piece. Since you will have over-sized the curve by 1/4" in the earlier steps, it will be come out flush with the 1/4" covers on the top and front of the side unit, once they are installed. I have some sketches I can scan in and attach if you'd like me to.

I'm thinking options 2 and 4 are your best bets.

mpm32

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #138 on: March 22, 2010, 02:28:49 pm »
I think you just need cut your kerfs deeper.  It's hard to tell but I don't think they're deep enough.

samej71

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #139 on: March 22, 2010, 02:50:15 pm »
Quote
I think you just need cut your kerfs deeper.  It's hard to tell but I don't think they're deep enough.

Even better :)

thatpurplestuff

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #140 on: March 23, 2010, 12:23:14 am »
Thank you for the input guys!  First, I tried to cut my kerfs a bit deeper by hand.  The only thing less fun than kerfing with a table saw is kerfing an extra few millimeters with a handsaw.  I read a tip last night about steaming wood with a wet rag and an iron, so I figured I would give it a shot.  Apparently I kerfed too much extra, because my first attempt didn't snap but it made an obvious crack along the curve (incidentally it cracked right next to a knot in the plywood so I'm going to blame the wood.. yeah it was definitely the wood).

The one thing I learned through the first mistake was that steaming the wood makes it bend a LOT more if you take the time to really get both sides saturated, so much so that I figured I would try it on my second piece of kerfed wood without deepening the kerfs at all.  After a lot of steaming, I clamped the piece on the Skeeball machine and it actually worked!  The curve looks great, so I'm going to keep it clamped there for a few days just to be safe.  Tomorrow, I will cut off another 5" section of the kerfed wood to use on the other side.  Here are a couple of pics!






So once again, we find that evil of the past seeps into the present like salad dressing through cheap wax paper, mixing memory and desire.

Epyx

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #141 on: March 23, 2010, 12:37:23 am »
Looks great!  :cheers:

What did you use for steaming?
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thatpurplestuff

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #142 on: March 23, 2010, 12:54:36 am »
Thanks Epyx!  I literally used a household iron and a wet washrag... very easy.  I just put the wet rag on the wood, moved the iron around on full steam for a minute or so, flipped the wood and repeated, then put the plywood on the machine and clamped like crazy.  I was very surprised with how easy it was.

By the way, your Aliens cab is one of the projects that I make a point to check out any time it is updated... looking VERY slick.  Nice work!


So once again, we find that evil of the past seeps into the present like salad dressing through cheap wax paper, mixing memory and desire.

Epyx

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #143 on: March 23, 2010, 05:18:20 pm »
Quote
Thanks Epyx!  I literally used a household iron and a wet washrag... very easy.  I just put the wet rag on the wood, moved the iron around on full steam for a minute or so, flipped the wood and repeated, then put the plywood on the machine and clamped like crazy.  I was very surprised with how easy it was.

By the way, your Aliens cab is one of the projects that I make a point to check out any time it is updated... looking VERY slick.  Nice work!

Thanks and appreciate the info...good to know and will likely come in very handy soon!  I had tried the kerfing as well with poor results  :cheers:
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thatpurplestuff

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #144 on: March 28, 2010, 08:18:52 pm »
I found some time today to retry my kerfing for the end caps.  The plywood that I used this time didn't have NEARLY as much flex in it even though it was the exact same 1/4" thickness.  I only kerfed the areas that needed to bend, as opposed to my first effort where I just kerfed the whole thing.  I was hoping to end up with two new caps, but a bit of splitting occurred on the one on the right hand side.  I might be able to sand it and fix it, but I won't know until it dries and sets.  Either way, I still have the first cap so I can use that one if needed.

Hoping to get these caps permanently attached and the net finished this week, as well as figure out a way to secure the bumpers to the sides.  Also, I've got to find an alternative to the L-shaped wood that I used to hold the vinyl down... after catching a few errant skeeballs both the top and bottom pieces have cracked and broken.  I'm hoping to find something that can take a beating but still looks good.












So once again, we find that evil of the past seeps into the present like salad dressing through cheap wax paper, mixing memory and desire.

samej71

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #145 on: April 13, 2010, 01:41:44 pm »
Hey there thatpurplestuff,

Just checking in again. How is the netting coming along? Is the Flash piece/software at a place where you'd be comfortable releasing it to the public [ or at least a select few :) ] to look at/play with?

For the cork/vinyl hold-down, I originally thought about the material that is used at uneven thresholds to hold down carpeting or vinyl flooring, or on the edges of some stairs.

For the side bumpers (maybe even the hold-down too) what about plastic landscape molding, like what is used as a barrier between lawns and mulch/rock?

Since the Cherry rotary microswitches seem to be very expensive ($12 or more for each) and finding similar products from other vendors is nearly impossible due to a lack of any kind of naming convention, I've decided I'm going to go with optical switches. I can get a IR transmitter/receiver pair for around $1.50, a good $10 cheaper per switch, plus no mechanical switch to wear out. I've been working with a friend and I think we have a decent design for making sure they function optimally (minimizing any kind of cross-talk, making sure it reliably detects balls, etc.)

I've tried a couple times to contact Randy of GroovyGameGear over the past few months to ask some questions about the LedWiz's inputs to make sure the IR components I get have the right output specifications to properly trigger the inputs. I also wanted to make sure my plans for mass-powering RGB LEDs based off the signals from the LedWiz PWM outputs are appropriate. For whatever reason, he hasn't seemed to reply to my emails. I found that odd since he normally seems to be pretty responsive given the forum posts  I've read about him. I just now tried a forum PM to him, maybe he'll get this attempt. Worst case scenario, I might look at other solutions for an input/output interface, such as something from Ultimarc or something arduino-based.

Anyhooo... Back on track.. I'm interesting in hearing about any additional progress you may have made. :)

--James

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #146 on: April 16, 2010, 04:37:02 pm »
Saw this in another thread about something else and thought it might work to protect/cover the wood you're using to hold down the vinyl.

Comes in a variety of colors and sizes, this is one that might color coordinate with the vinyl you have:

http://www.corner-guard.com/textured_vinyl/90_degree_angle/1.125_inch/standard_colors/11924_-_sawdust/view_all_products.html

--James

drventure

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #147 on: April 16, 2010, 04:59:36 pm »
About this

Quote
I've tried a couple times to contact Randy of GroovyGameGear over the past few months to ask some questions about the LedWiz's inputs to make sure the IR components I get have the right output specifications to properly trigger the inputs. I also wanted to make sure my plans for mass-powering RGB LEDs based off the signals from the LedWiz PWM outputs are appropriate. For whatever reason, he hasn't seemed to reply to my emails. I found that odd since he normally seems to be pretty responsive given the forum posts  I've read about him. I just now tried a forum PM to him, maybe he'll get this attempt. Worst case scenario, I might look at other solutions for an input/output interface, such as something from Ultimarc or something arduino-based.

What I've found, is that you can control pretty much anything via an LEDWiz if you use the right optoisolator/triac or solid state relay. The chips and circuits involved are pretty simple (see my thread), and they'll allow you to control virtually any simple component via the ledwiz outputs, because all you end up driving via the LED wiz is the ir emitter of the isolator, which is basically just a plain ol' LED.

I'm controlling multiple ELWire segments, and even an old analog ammeter (to show CPU Utilization) via an LEDWiz.

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #148 on: June 27, 2010, 12:11:07 pm »
I'm working on a mini skee-ball type game using a pinball plunger to shoot smaller wooden balls, and I stumbled on this thread. I'd like to use a 15 monitor for the entire top screen. Your software would work perfect and I have no coding skill what-so-ever. Any chance you'd be willing to share your program? Would be much appreciated. THANKS

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #149 on: June 29, 2010, 11:42:19 am »
Amazing thread and amazing job on a build that most would never consider undertaking. I have a skee ball machine that could really use a breath of new life to it and your software would be just the remedy. Hoping you have it to a point where you are comfortable releasing it as it looks fantastic!  :cheers:
I've got a fever...

thatpurplestuff

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #150 on: September 20, 2010, 12:47:27 am »
I am still alive and I haven't forgotten about Skeeball.  I'm getting married in 3 weeks, and with all the planning/prep and other real world stuff I haven't had much if any free time over the last few months.  I appreciate all of the kind words that I have received here and via email about the software.  Unfortunately the software isn't at a point where it's ready to be released, but I have made significant progress with the source code in terms of getting it to where I want it to be (adding ability to play with up to 4 players right now for certain game modes although I'm not done with that yet).  The other main change that needs to be done before it is released is to make the game access an external settings file to make it easier to change options for each game.  I am also really excited about the way the software is looking... for the first version I threw the visuals together pretty quickly and used a fairly generic look for the majority of the game modes.  At a quick glance there really wasn't anything distinguishing one from the other other than different color backgrounds.  I decided to incorporate a theme for each game type, and so far I'm really happy with the results.  Here's a quick shot of an old screen grab along with the new design.  The multiplier changes every second in-game, so you have to time your roll to get the best multiplier.

Old "Flash" game mode


New "Flash Point" game mode


The concept for this theme is a bit darker than the rest of the game modes... the others are more lighthearted.  Thanks again for reading and for those that have inquired about obtaining the software, rest assured I haven't forgotten about it!

So once again, we find that evil of the past seeps into the present like salad dressing through cheap wax paper, mixing memory and desire.

broberg

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #151 on: September 20, 2010, 10:54:03 am »
I say hardcore making your own bendable board!

I bought pre-made MDF for my coffee-table build, 10mm MDF with grooves just like the ones you did on your boards!

http://www.minhembio.com/Broberg/123926/
Building ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- is fun!
Currently working on : Tron Desk, Kawasaki GPZ900R, Chevrolet S10 And Suzuki DR650

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #152 on: September 21, 2010, 03:03:50 am »

Man you guys that can do woodwork AND software just make me sick  ;D

Looking very good there!


ROUGHING UP THE SUSPECT SINCE 1981

Rick

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #153 on: September 21, 2010, 10:24:30 am »
I bought pre-made MDF for my coffee-table build, 10mm MDF with grooves just like the ones you did on your boards!

You just answered a question I had - can one kerf cut MDF and have it not split apart.

http://www.minhembio.com/Broberg/123926/

Amazing, simply amazing work.  Everybody should hit this link.

Shortbus

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #154 on: September 26, 2010, 10:47:20 am »
"I'm getting married in 3 weeks,"

say good bye to the skee ball.....Kidding, I enjoy this thread and the quality work, Congrats on the marriage.......hurry back

nestechs

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #155 on: October 22, 2010, 08:09:21 pm »
This thread has been very helpful!  I just recently got a Skeeball Too unit. It's in great shape but it did not have the screen, logic board and power supply.  I was thinking of ordering the parts from skeeball, but when I saw they wanted just about thousand dollars for them I figured I'd look elsewhere to try something.  That's how I found this and I think this would be an awesome setup.  I ordered stuff from groovy game gear and it just showed up today.  But I was wondering, with your software that you did, are you using the keywiz or the wiz+gp?  I ordered the led-wiz+gp and now I'm thinking I may have needed the keywiz.  I'm still waiting to hear from RandyT if I can get a copy of his software because I'd love to try it out and eventually try to do something like what you are doing.  But it's been a few years since I have tried coding anything. 

Your project looks awesome and I can't wait to see your software when you finish.

Swillie

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #156 on: November 19, 2010, 02:11:35 am »
Hello. I have been watching this thread with interest. Congratulations on the recent wedding. My wife has tolerated my mild arcade game hobby and now thanks to your project I hope to pay her back. I have made a couple multi arcade cabinets and fixed up a couple old pinballs, but my wife loves only one arcade game and that is skeeball.  Once I saw this thread I knew I had to make her a skeeball and finally get her interested in my gameroom. I actually am hoping to take the easy way out and fix up a junker skeeball if I can just find one for cheap enough. I have a pc, 15" lcd and have ordered the Keywiz from RandyT. Who knows how long it will take to find a skeeball cabinet. I was ready to spring for a complete working game but to be honest your software looks so awesome I have decided to just find a physically intact cabinet and run it with the pc instead. A skeeball that can play multiple games would be off the chart!! Of course that is under the assumption that you will at some point share your program with us idiots who dont know how to make our own.  I once knew how to program basic back during the commodore 64 days but that was a long time ago.  I will keep an eye on your project as I begin mine, and hope I might be able to send a donation your way if and when you decide to share the software you have created.

Creeper

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #157 on: November 19, 2010, 05:32:26 pm »
Some great stuff in this thread, lots of cool techniques for wood shaping.  :applaud:

Firebat138

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #158 on: January 25, 2011, 03:48:46 pm »
I love coming back to this thread every once in a while, and everytime I seem to wanna read the entire thread again.  :-)

Click below to see my Metal Gear/Splinter Cell Machine... And Custom Artwork for Hire
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=108360.0

mgb

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Re: That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)
« Reply #159 on: January 29, 2011, 12:31:19 pm »
This is really a freakin' cool build.
Very original. Really nice work.
I love the use of the monitor for the score board.

I probably missed it somewhere in the post, but will it be easy enough to get to your switches for adjustments as needed.
I work on skeeballs for a guy and I find the switches do get out of wack sometimes.

  
 

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