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Author Topic: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph  (Read 19779 times)

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UnclearHermit

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #200 on: June 03, 2020, 04:11:42 pm »
Some excitement today...

Firstly, a quick bit on assembly.  Having got the first side and a few pieces attached to it I had to get the other side attached.  Moving this into place as a dry fit it became apparent that it didn't fit together as well as it should, although the good news is that all the pieces seemed to be in the right place.  I eventually figured out that the second side had become a bit bent, probably because it's been leaning for a while.  Some clamping and weighting down over night sorted most of that.  I still can't get everything everywhere 100% square, so I've done what I can and we'll see how things look as things move on.



Getting from the dry fit to the glue stage is fiddly.  There are several pieces of blocking that need to be glued at the same time.  By the time I got from one end of the cabinet to the other, adjusting/clamping/screwing as I went, I knew that the glue at the other end would either start drying without being properly in contact or just dry in the wrong place.  I couldn't see a good way around this, so I just had to do some extra glue as I reached the other end by bending things around to get access to the blocking.  Seems okay all done, but I'd rather have had access to give everything a decent amount of glue.  My fear here is that the screws are having to do too much work and I won't know that until down the line when it falls apart  ;)

Anyway, onto more exciting news.  Arrival from Mikes Arcade  :)



This travelled, beautifully packaged, all the way from the US to the UK.  Cost me an absolute fortune in shipping and import costs, which I'm trying to forget.  But I now have all the metalwork pieces, plus some of the flat t-moulding.  There are plenty of discussion threads about who sells proper flat t-moulding.  Here it is in profile, and I'll update the thread once it's in place so you can see the final outcome.



And, finally, with the cabinet glue set and having sat in various clamps overnight, it stands for the first time.  Finally, something resembling an arcade cabinet  ;D




Arroyo

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #201 on: June 03, 2020, 04:14:54 pm »
:applaud:  you are doing good work.  Keep it up.  Feels like itís never gonna end right?

ChanceKJ

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #202 on: June 03, 2020, 04:41:12 pm »
Iíve never tried changing the finish with say a matte clear coat on a gloss base.  I mean, you could always by a can and test your paint process on a scrap of wood. Thats what I always do if Iím not sure.

UnclearHermit

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #203 on: June 03, 2020, 05:42:33 pm »
:applaud:  you are doing good work.  Keep it up.  Feels like itís never gonna end right?

Thanks.  And yes!  It's nice to actually see some bits coming together finally.  There are so many more details and things to consider than I thought possible at the start of this.  I've got upright spraying to look forward to soon.  I've taken the easier route so far by doing all the spray horizontally.  Hopefully I've learned enough with the spray so far to get the vertical stuff right.

Iíve never tried changing the finish with say a matte clear coat on a gloss base.  I mean, you could always by a can and test your paint process on a scrap of wood. Thats what I always do if Iím not sure.
Thanks, I wasn't planning the change finish.  For the matt coats I can use a matt clear coat.  It was more whether you'd found it necessary to put a semi gloss clear coat on a semi gloss paint, or if you'd found the semi gloss durable enough on its own.  I don't remember seeing you do clear coat on your DK Ultimate, for example.

ChanceKJ

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #204 on: June 04, 2020, 07:07:47 am »
You know, youíre right. I never did clear coat the DKU like I did the Flynns cab. Huh.

UnclearHermit

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #205 on: June 09, 2020, 04:23:05 pm »
First issue with metal parts vs plans.  The slot for the bottom bezel bracket is shown as 6mm on the Gaetan plans, but the bracket from Mike's Arcade is at least 1mm wider than that, so I needed to widen the slot and also make it deeper.  I'd never been particularly happy with this slot anyway, having struggled to keep the router in a straight line whilst getting across the narrow surface, so it was a good chance to try something different.

A couple of years ago I bought an old (1/2") router off eBay for about £10, but in the end I bought myself a new 1/4" router because it was easier dealing with a router for the first time with luxuries like instructions.  The old router isn't in great condition, but I thought it was worth trying to construct a very crude temporary router table.  I cut a hole in a lower section of my workbench and made holes to allow the router to be attached to the underside.  I then clamped a guide piece of wood at one end loosely enough to be pivoted to give me the distance from the router bit to cut my slot.  If I made this more permanent I could put a bolt through to allow this piece to be adjusted, but for the very rare use I've planned for it this worked fine.  Once the guide piece was in the correct place I clamped both ends tight.



This allowed me to run my wood along the improvised fence, which worked pretty well.  I had to route twice with the small router bit to give me the slot size that I needed, and I had to patch up one bit where things went off-target, but I now have a bigger slot and it's a lot neater than the original.

The photo below show the bezel support in place, albeit the wrong way around; I think the higher vertical peiece faces OUTWARDS, but I can't be 100% sure because the piece doesn't match the profile of the original.  The original, shown at https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=BZLRETNLWR matches the image on the left, whereas the one I've received has the profile of the one on the right.  I think I actually prefer it this way; I can't see why the original would "stick out" from the bezel.



I'm slightly curious how the bezel sits in what appears to be a vertical support and yet holds a bezel in it that's not itself positioned vertically.  Something has to give somewhere...  It might be that the bezel just pulls the bracket slightly off-angle, but if so then I need to make sure there's enough play in the slot for that to be possible.

There's a slight imperfection in the metal on the surface at the far left that you can see in the photo.  I could probably file it down but then I'd have to paint, so I might just have to live with it, or maybe just put a dot of paint or marker pen over it to make it less obvious

Any ideas what the hole is for?  The only possible thing I can think would be to screw the bracket into the bezel, but I can't think why that would needed or even a good idea.



ChanceKJ

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #206 on: June 09, 2020, 11:59:44 pm »
The hole is most likely so the bracket could have been painted or powdered. I have to have one drilled when I powder coat mine.

UnclearHermit

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #207 on: June 10, 2020, 07:28:59 am »
Ah, okay, thanks.  At least I'm not supposed to be screwing it to anything then!

ChanceKJ

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #208 on: June 11, 2020, 04:29:08 am »
Nope. It just friction fits to the bottom of the bezel plexi.

Imgpoz

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #209 on: June 12, 2020, 09:39:27 am »
Following this thread.  Great project - love the theme!  Can't wait to see the finished product.

UnclearHermit

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #210 on: June 25, 2020, 06:14:26 pm »
thanks  :)

The problem with infrequent posting is forgetting where you've got up to...

So I got the top and bottom pieces on the back.



The problem I found with all of this is getting the cabinet square in all dimensions.  I'd hoped that once I got the two sides together that things would mostly sort themselves out, but there's little at this stage to just stop the thing swaying from left to right.  Angles seem to be off all over the place, and correcting one angle just seems to send another one off.  By getting these two little pieces in place on the back in all helps in starting to hold the cabinet more square and rigid, at least in one dimension.  I attached the front door panel for similar reasons.



This piece attaches to blocking on both sides and the base, so is held well in position, but at the top where it meets the little horizontal piece there's not much holding it in place across the front of the cabinet.  I added a bit of glue to keep those two pieces together, but since it might not hold well on the painted wood I added a few brads in from the rear whilst keeping it clamped.



I hadn't cut the back panel up until this point because I knew its size would very much depend on everything that surrounds it.  The rear door is only 12mm rather than the 15mm of the rest of the cabinet.  Once I'd cut it to size I used the router to cut half of the depth away on the lower short edge, where the panel slots in to a similar groove cut in the lower back panel. 



The panel is currently too tight a fit and I have pull the cabinet slightly to one side to make the recess square enough for it to fit.  I'm not sure if I can find a way to more permanently brace it in this correct, square position.  At the moment if I trim the door to make it a slightly looser fit then the cabinet will simply stay in the "wrong" position, leaving the rear door panel sitting wonky in the frame.  I'm coming back to that once I get a few other bits done.

Speaking of which, I made the container and shelf for the coin box to sit inside.  I'd cut some pieces of this, and/or possibly of the coin box itself, from the parts list CAD file dimensions some time last year.  Looking at them now I'm not quite sure which bits they're supposed to be, because they refer to the coin box shelf and the coin box sides, so I don't know if it's the sides of the actual coin box or of the frame that holds the coin box (which sits on the coin box shelf).  There are also a fair few parts not mentioned, such as tops/backs etc.  The dimensions also don't seem to match other information.

DonkeyKong did a great thread and SketchUp models of the coin box here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=75187.0.  If you look at the dimensions in the first post they show the coin box "container" sides as 7 3/4" high, which matches the size shown at https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/donkey-kong.html.  But later in the thread (8 YEARS later) he added the SketchUp, which has the side half an inch taller.  Based upon the original sizes the CAD file is actually describing the coin box "frame" and not the coin box itself for the parts, despite the labels.  None of this really matters an enormous amount so long as the pieces all fit and are aligned with the coin mechs, but it's worth remembering if you're copying dimensions for making any of this stuff.  I'd recommend just working from the DonkeyKong files, because you have a nice 3D model with dimensions to make it entirely clear which piece is which.

The fiddly part of making this component are the two holes that the coins drop into. 

I'm sure there's a good way of doing this with various jigs or whatever to get router cuts in the right place, but I couldn't think of any easy one.  I ended up drilling out pretty close to the corners of each hole, taking the bulk out with the jigsaw, then using the flush trim bit along a clamped bit of wood to tidy up each line, cutting very carefully into the corners.  It worked, so that's what really matters, but I'd love to see how others do this in a better way.

With that done it was just a bunch of glue and clamps to get the various pieces together.







Here it is in place in the cabinet, but not screwed in yet:



And a quick test with the coin door in place, belatedly checking and hoping that the holes were where they were supposed to be!



Next up, the coin box...

javeryh

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #211 on: June 25, 2020, 09:58:40 pm »
Looks great.  Love the details on the inside that not many will even see!

Cutting rectangles out of a panel is super easy using your method (drill the corners, jigsaw the rest) but instead of using clamps, you can use strips of (straight) wood held down with double sided tape to guide your router and flush bit.  You can set up any size rectangle this way in minutes and not have to worry about wonky clamp setups.  You can also do the entire rectangle at once instead of one edge at a time. 

The tape is really really strong and if you are worried about the surface, put down painters tape and then the double sided tape on top.  The large sticky surface area is plenty strong to make things stay in place.

Arroyo

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #212 on: June 26, 2020, 12:08:15 pm »
Finally coming together, and itís looking real nice.  I can relate to the challenge of lining everything up.  Donít see too many people taking about that but yeah, getting the blocking just right is a ---smurfette---.

javeryh

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #213 on: June 26, 2020, 12:54:59 pm »
Finally coming together, and itís looking real nice.  I can relate to the challenge of lining everything up.  Donít see too many people taking about that but yeah, getting the blocking just right is a ---smurfette---.
100% agree.  Getting everything lined up and square is really difficult and stressful especially if you have already applied the glue.  Everyone just glosses over it because, well... itís really boring and also because everyone knows how to do it in theory but in practice itís a lot tougher.

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Re: Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph
« Reply #214 on: June 30, 2020, 05:06:18 pm »
Looks great.  Love the details on the inside that not many will even see!

Cutting rectangles out of a panel is super easy using your method (drill the corners, jigsaw the rest) but instead of using clamps, you can use strips of (straight) wood held down with double sided tape to guide your router and flush bit.

Thanks :) I think my wife thinks I'm over-obsessing over the inside of a cabinet...

I've read the tape tip before but for some reason haven't given it a go.  It's probably slight fear about getting tape that will actually hold.  I must try though, because it really would make things (that I've already done..) easier!

Finally coming together, and itís looking real nice.  I can relate to the challenge of lining everything up.  Donít see too many people taking about that but yeah, getting the blocking just right is a ---smurfette---.

Thanks, but less of the "finally"  ;D 

So, the coin box.  I'll probably say it many times in this post, but I'm really loving my improvised router table.  The front panel of the coin box is made of thicker wood than the other pieces (from memory it's 3/4" vs 1/2", but I've been using 15mm for the thicker piece since it's what I have to hand) and is recessed on the bottom and the two sides to take the bottom and side panels.  I COULD have cut those out with the router normally but I'd have to have clamped it several times to get the three separate edges.  Instead I just adjusted my under-bench router and was able to do this more easily.



With that done it was a case of cutting the other pieces and assembling, which always takes me an eternity in trying to make sure that pieces are all exactly the right size.  As before I used the router to do the last couple of mm on each to get the sizes and straightness right.  I just don't trust anything else that I have to make the cuts.

Again, just glue holding this together, and the corner clamps were actually useful for once in holding everything.



I drilled a couple of holes in the front panel before assembly so that I could attach the handle.  I could have just glued it, but it's the one thing that will actually be pulled and so a couple of screws can't hurt.



Again with the router table, I was able to take a piece of blocking to use as the front handle, and add a profile similar to what I see on other Nintendo cabinets.  Without the table I'd find this practically impossible, whereas with the table it's just a case of trying to not lose fingers in the process. The hardest bit was adjusting the wood on the right (improvised fence) so that the router bit hit the middle of the blocking.



Came out okay.



I made a couple of mistakes with the router when cutting out the the panels, one with me tilting the router accidentally and another with a clamp slipping, and then made a third when I used one of the damaged edges as my straight line for the pattern bit to follow. ::)  Since they're all on the underside of the box I was tempted to just leave them alone, since the box isn't painted and so I didn't immediately see an easy way to repair.  But I then realised theat the one on the bottom of the front panel was visible.  So as a long-shot I thought I'd try mixing some MDF dust with some wood glue to make a paste and then using that to roughly fill the holes.



After sanding these are not too bad.  A bit darker, but it's far less apparent now when looking from the front.



And after applying a coat of MDF sealant it all looked good.



I had a few brief moments celebrating the success, went to put the box into the cabinet, and then found that the box stuck out of the front of the frame on the coin shelf. :banghead: I thought at first that something was catching somewhere or that I had something behind the box that was in the way.  But ultimately, in total frustration, I found that the box was just too deep.  Having examined the problem it looks like I'd measured the side panel depth correctly but somehow forgotten to subtract the depth of the front panel from those pieces.  I think I may even have had them right at some point and then confused the orientation of the side panels (they're close to square) and cut the wrong length.  Whatever the reason, my newly assembled box didn't fit, and I was faced with destroying it and starting again.

Router table to the rescue.

I used the router table to carefully shave off the rear of the box on all sides, slowly adjusting both the depth and width of the router cut until there was very little holding the rear panel in place and the remaining sides were the correct depth.  This was a nervous time, constantly checking and double-checking that I had the box the right way around when routing each edge.



I could have cut slightly further into the back panel, but if it had come loose whilst in contact with the router bit then I figured it would do far more damage to the panel.  So at this stage I just took a knife and cut the final piece of wood/glue that was holding the back panel in place.  I was then able to clean up the edges and then re-attach the back panel in its new position.

Job done, crisis averted, only a couple of hours lost, and box now in place in the cabinet.



Think I might paint the sides next.