Small Toggle Switches and AC Electricity

[Necro]

OK, just want to confirm this before I do it and kill myself  

Using one of the smaller toggle switches (given I account for it's amp rating in what I plug into it) is the same as wiring a light switch on AC correct?  Nothing special to do?  (standard placement of the switch on the hot wire, etc.)?

Secifically, I'm thinking of something like these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062519
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062526

I want to add them both just inside by coin door to control 'all power' and the black light that's in my cab (Omega Race) that I won't always want on.


Also, related...is there any reason for using a terminal block for AC power over wire nuts except for ease of disconnection?


(Just trying to apply my AC wiring knowledge from lights/household wiring to the intricacies of a cab.)

My current design is to run AC wiring to a junction box inside the cab and have two sets of outlets in there.  One outlet will be on the 'main' switch, the other outlet will be on the 'black light' switch.  This would require wire from the junction box (hot wires) to come out of the junction box, route to the above mentioned switches by the coin door, then route back.  The switches would mounted in a way so that people don't electrocute themselves (either a painted junction box or a project box mounted nearby).

TIA for advice/help. 

[DaOld Man]

That first switch will need a neutral wire ran to it, if you plan to use the lighted portion of it.
The hot wire from the supply will have to go to a specific one of the other two. If you put the hot wire on the wrong one, the light will stay on all the time.

The second switch wires just like a regular AC light switch. Hot wire in, hot wire out.

I dont see anything at all wrong with using wirenuts, provided that you twist the wires together first, then have the right size wire nut, it should tighten down on the twisted wires and not be loose.
But I prefer soldering and heat shrink in a cabinet.

[DaOld Man]

I just read the specs on the second switch, it is for DC. Using it on AC will change the load capacity, but I think the capacity will go up. The specs dont say, so I would shop for a AC rated one, just to rest easy.

Edit: the second switch is rated for 12 volts DC.
Dont use it on 125 volts AC. Buy one rated for 10 amps (or more) at 125 volts (or more) AC.

A regular house type wall light switch would work fine for what you want, if its going to be hidden anyway.
You can also buy a duplex 120 volt receptacle with a switch. This would make your wiring a lot simpler, but you would need two of them.

Like this:
http://www.lightingfacts.com/Receptacles.html#Switch%20/%20Receptacle

[Necro]

Thanks for the quick reply!

Sorry, I looked at the first and didn't consider the lighting and I just did a quick search for SPST.  I know to get a 120VAC switch   That's the one thing I'm positive to look for, with a high amp rating.

Regarding 'visuals', I just wanted the cab to look 'arcadey' even when you open the coin door.  I've actually repainted the interior of the cab so that it looks good - I don't want to skimp and have something looking 'wrong' anywhere. I want this to look as much like a normal cab as possible.

I thought of the duplex type of switch, but the thing is I want the switches accessible from the front of the cab so I can easily turn everything on and off.  I'm debating running a 'mains' type AC line through the old cab switch before it goes anywhere else, just so that switch is still functional (and can kill all power to the cab) but I haven't decided on that yet and it's a fairly straightforward wiring setup.

So, my other question that I just thought of - normal heatshrink is fine on AC wiring right?  I generally use wirenuts and then wrap in electrical tape for house wiring and wasn't certain that shrinkwrap would be sufficient for AC wiring.

[DaOld Man]

Heat shrink is fine for AC. What matters is the voltage rating. What I use is rated for 600 volts, so it should be fine for just about anything.
I like you idea of using the switch already on the cabinet.
Plus you should be able to find pushon/pushoff switches that look a lot like the original one on the cabinet, if you want a separate switch for your lamp.
Good luck with your project!